#Attempted to dye case with rit dyemore + stuff I've done
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oof. do you have a second flipper to wait while we set up logistics for replacement cases?
I got in an order for a second one today
I tried reshaping with my heat gun and it was just making matters worse, going to electric tape it back together for now.
When replacement cases are available I'm going to pick up a few and try again at lower temps and less time in the dye.
Just got tracking on my order, not sure if you pulled some strings or it's a coincidence. Thanks @atomic pewter
Yeah this is a risky move kinda thinking about buying a 3D resin printer and curing setup for making different colors for myself
But that’s not for a while
I need to look around and see if I can find some STL files I have a buddy with a nice printer and he's going to be getting a resin printer soon. If anyone comes across STL files let me know PLEASE.
I'm going to cut the bottom half of the case at about 1/3 of the length so I can put that on to protect the pogo pins for the onetouch button thing. And electric tape the shit out of it in the meantime.
I heard 3d prints of the shell/case were way too brittle, but I can take a looksie
Oof this is so sad I was digging the green 
Think it depends on the materials tho
That noise is my cats breathing she has a respiratory infection.
yeah
Awww, hope she does better soon 😢
Everything still works. Cases will be available eventually.
Petg should be good
ABS 
Woof
She’s had it since she showed up she’s been on two antibiotics and can’t get it knocked out.
I mean it's part of the original case material
Smelly
so ABS isn't the craziest thing to print
I'm willing to bet the entire case is ABS the plastic window over the screen is probably the polycarbonate.
Everything is still functional at least and I knew the risks when I embarked on this project.
haha it’s not me! if you are ordering to EU, you always get your tracking number within 2 hours with our new system
Nope I'm in the US. I did order just a silicone case, screen protectors and dev board earlier this week. Haven't gotten tracking on that yet just on the flipper and silicone case I ordered in the early hours of this morning.
Kept it mostly around 195 did catch a 210 on my IR thermometer once. Fareinheit BTW.
@nova yarrow
That was a bit too much apparently lol
I’m gonna dye my case I bought
Yeah maybe bring it almost to boil then just turn it off and take it off the heat. Better to go too low temp you can always reheat and dye again if it’s not dark enough for you.
How much dye did you use?
I didn’t measure just poured in about 1/3 of the bottle. Friend who dyes other plastics said he pours in until he can’t see the bottom of the pot. I did that and a little more for good measure.
Okay! Thank you.
YW
apocalyptic flipper
Lol someone in @twin fractal’s discord called it the zombie flipper.
Speaking of dye... My son tried to dye the buttons... It don't go well.
@terse canopy If you would like to sell your old one for parts, I need some new buttons.
No mine still works fine. Not going to be parting with it.
well, shucks. Guess I will be waiting on the parts logistics. Or an STL for the buttons.
I’m gonna get a resin printer and a nice set of calipers pretty soon. I have an FDM printer atm though so if anyone has some case files they wanna have tested I can help
How Not to Dye Your Flipper Zero . . . or . . . How I Wrecked My Flipper Zero Case.
https://youtu.be/JgnEccllwb4
I attempted to recolor my Flipper Zero's case . . . it did not go well.
The weird gurgling sounds you hear is my cat she has an upper respiratory infection.
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im gonna dye my flipper black in the future for how long do you recommend to leave it from your experience
I did 15 because I wanted it to be dark. I think if I try again I will turn off the heat completely once it gets up to temp and submerge for 3 mins then pull out and heat it again and repeat.
I think so, my buddy that uses this method for dying switches says to check it at 10 minutes, but from what I saw the people that had success did 3 minutes for their dye jobs.
I have a resin printer, but its packed away right now ill bring it back out and see if i can print the shell once i get my f0
I just worry about warping due to uv
Let me know how it goes @covert valve
Will do
And the realizing you need to wait for the shipment too
another tear falls
Is there a file out for the shell to print? The only thing I’ve seen in the file of the full flipper
Printables has a shell you could print
the actual shell? or just a case, because i cant seem to find the shell.
oh wow thanks
Do let us know how it prints
Yeah all attempts I've seen of replicating the case have been failed prints.
i still need to unpack my resin printer as i put it away due to lack of use but i should get around to it before the months end
does the file print successfully?
I have a regular fdm printer and I printed the shell but the components didn't fit. Either the nozzel I'm using is too big (.4mm) for finer details or I have to resize the stl file itself.
Yeah I haven't seen anyone have success with it. I'm hoping to find someone that has had some luck.
hopefully the resin printer will be better at the finer details
actaully went ahead and unpacked the printers rn
gave em a full clean up
now all i need is to get some resin and then i cant start printing, but we'll see how the cases fit when my flipper gets here. until then, just gotta see how the case front and backing fit together
@terse canopy lil update ^^
Metal 3D printed case sounds lit Ngl
How does that work 0-o
removed the polarizer from the screen with a razor
then cleaned off the adhesive, the piece I'm flipping is the polarizer
I have a new polarizer film sheet on the way that I'm going to put on to get the negative effect
English please
So I wanted to build an SLA LCD 3d printer. I've found this great 12" 4K monitor with a control board (product id NV125QUM-N81) but the polarizers are very aggressive and cut off all the UV light, so I tried to remove both polarizers hoping to find a replacement somewhere (any suggestion?).
I don't know how... but I've been successful in this v...
How do you plan on having the polarizer stick to the lcd again?
Specification: Polarization: Linear Size:7.8x11.8 inches/ 20x30cm Thickness:0.19mm Feature: These small polarizers are used for Motorcycle dashboard display, small size screen, projector screen, electronic watch screen. There are three layers of display film, the middle layer is display film, wit...
polarizer with adhesive, cut to fit and stick it on. I want to be able to rotate it 90 degrees to get the negative effect.
Polarizer film should be here on Tuesday, until then I just put some tape along the edge outside of the window to hold it in place atm.
it would be cool if someone made a fallout type flipper
or like printed a cooler case with things other than just colors
I want to badly do that
HMU I can help you out, or just send me yours and I'll do it for a nominal fee 😄
Those damn LEDs are so small, smallest thing I ever hand soldered.
Yep I will do it
once I finally got one on though I figured it out and it went pretty quick after that.
I planned to go red but if you squeeze too hard with tweezers they shoot off to never be found again.
I actually found one of the red ones later that night but I don't want to go through that hassle again right now.
I was supposed to get green LEDs but they didn't come in my order so I'm kind of salty about that
Could you send a pic of your flipper in current state I’m just curious
I didn't realize I was going to need 3 LED's and I only bought 5 of the colors I bought.
Sick the backlight looks awesome
yeah the white is a nice improvement, didn't think I would like it as it's such a normie color but I do
Do you plan to dye the buttons correctly this time
And if you get a replacement shell
can see a lot better with white. The polarizer film I ordered is supposed to be here tomorrow so I plan to repolarize it with negative colors
would look good in the white case for sure.
Yea doesn’t look too green I love that
Yep
I'm breaking out the desoldering gun in a bit to work on my boards if you want to drop into squach's voice in a bit.
Oh yea I’ll join in 15 mins
I need to get a couple of things finished around the house first and I keep getting distracted with shit on my PC 😄
My new board is ready for wiring.
@atomic gyro here
had to finish my thought there, was planning on tagging you anyways
Ah ok I'll ask Zoe if there's a way to separate the threads from general
Only staff can reduce it
it's 10 seconds but still seems unneccesary
Yeah, it is in other channels. Only #general needs it imo
So when I see her active I'll mention it. Thanks for letting me know
NP
As far as the buttons it would have to black as that’s about the only color that would cover the orange. I def want to go forest green for the case. I did it correctly just too long. The plastic has to be some kind of blend because ABS should not have warped at the temp. It never got to more than 209. I was checking with an IR thermometer constantly.
resin i ordered will be here tomorrow, then i can finally start printing, sorry for the delay.
Nice.
Polarizer film arrived and the negative effect is looking great!
Attempted to dye case with rit dyemore + stuff I've done
Ooh, what did you use/do?
I replaced the LEDs for the white lighting. I used a razor blade to remove the polarizer from the LCD screen then cut a new polarizer to replace the stock one with a different orientation to give the colors a negative effect. The LED are 0603 this is the polarizer I purchased. There’s enough here to do 50+ screens though. https://amzn.to/3YVN40L if you want I can sell you some of the film I have for dirt cheap + shipping.
Specification: Polarization: Linear Size:7.8x11.8 inches/ 20x30cm Thickness:0.19mm Feature: These small polarizers are used for Motorcycle dashboard display, small size screen, projector screen, electronic watch screen. There are three layers of display film, the middle layer is display film, wit...
Sure
Let's discuss in DMs
Ok
Sent ya a message!
let me know how it goes.
Okay so dont have photos as of now as im cleaning but the print finished, honestly, it does seem very fragile, but the print came out good in terms of quality, i need to calibrate some things on my printer to get the best results but for the crude test this was, very happy with the results, i definetly think this is possible. maybe thickening the shell a bit is the best bet in terms of making a everyday usable shell.
the two parts fit together but i have yet to try with screws
will try soon once the parts are dry
^^^ no screws*
some texture issues due to unnecessary supports
other parts got a little messed up during washing
but the only issues that came from the printing its self is a very small gap in the walls and cavity for the ibutton
dont have a screw driver small enough to get the screws open to test the shell so ill get one soon
thoughts and ideas much needed
I would definitely optimize the case for 3d printing, something meant to be injection molded isn't always great to print and vice versa
Looks like the best attempt at 3d printing a replacement case I’ve seen.
what do you think could be improved
Thin walls, you don't need to make sure all the walls have the same thickness, you can have thicker external dimensions, overhangs etc
Bump
new wifi board soldering today