#crossland cc1 blank screen after tube exploded

204 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

ebon grove
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UPDATE*
I took some length from the vibratory pump and replaced the blown tubing pictured on the thread. Now when I turn the machine on the display glows blue but is blank. I feel no heat in the machine.

Hey there. I was doing some maintenance on my crossland cc1 espresso machine. Todays maintenance included : clean entire machine exterior, take off the opv and soak in dezcal (the pressure on my machine is at like 11-12 bar and it’s way too high - soaking it fixed my issue last time) however note that I did purchase a brand new opv and installed it several months ago.

I was mid dezcal soak/cycle on the machine itself. I had run half the water tank through the steam wand and let it soak for 30 minutes. Then I ran the second half out and was in the process of waiting another 30 minutes. 10 minutes in I heard a BANG and my heart dropped. It sounded like a major pop. So I saw a bunch of steam coming out of the top. I immediately turned the machine off and opened the top to thankfully see that there was no smoke or fried electric components. What I did see is the picture attached. The boiler looked intact.

I have two questions. 1. Where can I find replacement hose in this exact diameter and quality? And 2. If I can’t find it quickly, can I cut a very small length off of the hose coming off the vibratory pump without incident?

Also note. I had replaced the thermoblock and the opv within about three weeks of one another in March. Machine has been providing pretty steady service since. However I did notice the machine was producing too much pressure. Sometimes just doing a cafiza backflush would be good enough to get the pressure back where it should be. However this time it didn’t work.

I read a reddit post where someone was saying they took the opv off and backed off the screw at the top a turn or so and that actually brought the pressure on their machine down.

lofty burrow
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Haha wow never heard that before. Either high pressure caused that and you’re lucky it was just that, or compression nut on the tube was too tight splitting it.

It’s 99% sure 4x6 PTFE / Teflon tube
Very standard and cheap stuff.
& yeah stealing something off the pump line is no problem if you have enough there

Yes you can adjust the OPV by turning the screw inside if it has one. Lefty loosy = lower pressure

ebon grove
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Oh snap. Ok that makes sense. Here’s the problem.

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It doesn’t turn on anymore.

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I just get a blue screen.

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I did steal some tubing from the other line and it went mostly fine. I thought it would boot right up. I turned the machine off moments after the bang.

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Connections look fine but I don’t know. I can’t get it to turn on to get to the menu. The reason I just went ahead and tried to get this on and running is because I have a boiler full of dezcal and I need to get it flushed. It won’t flush unless it’s ok and has steam.

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It’s doing nothing right now 😦

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Thanks for your response @lofty burrow. Let me know if you have any other ideas.

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crossland cc1 blank screen after tube exploded

ebon grove
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Im pretty sure the thermal fuse is shot. I put a multimeter to it while the machine was powered on and I didn’t get a reading. I’m gonna replace it Wednesday when the part comes in

ebon grove
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Pretty sure I just blew my power supply

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Is the red light supposed to come on?

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I put the thermal fuse in line and it seemed to go fine. Switched it on. The setup menu started blinking. I got so excited.

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Then the setup went solid and then the blue backlight went off.

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And then the whole thing is dead dead now.

lofty burrow
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The red light means the relay is closed

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It’s not the power supply, since the red light is working!

ebon grove
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Ok so then what do you think I should do?

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I ordered another power ssr

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Nothing seems to be getting power. Maybe I just fried my motherboard then?

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The red light is NOT working. I think it was just the flash

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@lofty burrow any ideas?

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I wasn’t even pulling any voltage off the terminals with the multimeter on it.

ebon grove
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So…I changed the power supply. And I changed the thermal fuse again…the machine now turns on and gets power and blinks with three dashes. But it doesn’t get hot….

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I did get the descale stuff out of the boiler though so that’s good. It was in there for a week. Not good.

lofty burrow
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Dang you’re really unlucky man.

But it’s powering up as in, you get normal stuff on the screen?

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If the control unit is trying to heat up the machine it should read some low voltage on the DC input side of the SSR. If that’s not there you have to search more towards the control board side

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It should also read 230v / ac on the other terminals for good measure (if the relay is not closed)

ebon grove
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So….yes I am unlucky. But I’m getting there.

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For some reason I have a suspicion that the butt connectors aren’t the right voltage or load carrying. Not sure if that matters. But I bought the same ones that the guy on the reddit post I was following used

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I cut corners and got some different insulated ones and they were not working well. Then I got ones from Home Depot and they had no rating on them for voltage. So im just gonna use the ones linked.

ebon grove
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The screen blinks the three dash’s and it looks like it’s trying to warm up but all of the water is cold.

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Steam valve is leaking like a mf. But that’s another ticket for another day. Hopefully the rebuild kit that’s out there does the trick.

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By the way @lofty burrow thank you for your responses. You’re literally the only person helping me and I have barely any idea what I’m doing. Seems like you know. About about wiring and stuff.

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I have a multimeter but I’m not super skilled with how to use it. So when I go to test the relay, do I use one of the probes to touch the screw on the relay and then where do I put the other one? Metal?

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Also I just put my notifications on all notifications and not just mentions. So hopefully I can catch ya in real time next time. I keep missing your messages.

lofty burrow
# ebon grove Also I just put my notifications on all notifications and not just mentions. So ...

Doesn’t help we’re in different time zones!

If I’m correct, currently all your issues are gone except it doesn’t heat right? Apart from that it seems to function normally?

Having a multimeter is good! I’ll try to explain a bit more thorough since you asked for it.
First test if it works, by setting it to continuity testing (sound symbol of Ohmega) it should beep when you put both probes together.

Then, please be careful when you have the machine plugged in and open, a lot of the wires carry high mains voltage which stings like a b*

There are quite a few (safety) switches before the heating element, you can follow them down or upstream (electrically upstream) after measuring the SSR.

Now check;

  • If the machine is on, and setup so it shoulde be heating, the red light on the SSR should be turned on.

  • put the multimeter in DC volt meter, and measure ‘over’ both of the input terminals of the SSR. So one probe on either side, color doesn’t matter since it can measure negative voltage too.

Now if the control box is sending the right signals you should be reading 5v DC. (More or less).

  • now put the DMM (digital multimeter) in measuring AC voltage. Put both probes over the output terminals. What does it read?
ebon grove
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Got a notification. Let me read this and catch up

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This is my multimeter

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Never heard this thing beep

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Also. I emailed bill crossland about this and he got back to my right away. And basically. Wow. Yea this is a tough one. Absolutely no feedback.

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I’m gonna. Jump into this once those new butt connectors show up and I am 100% certain that the thermal fuse is connected as good as it is gonna be.

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Right now I have the fuse out and the two wires are just hanging there stripped and ready to be spliced and crimped.

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They should arrive today.

ebon grove
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If that ain’t right I don’t know what is

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What’s wild is that I definitely forgot to plug a wire in that had a red and black and a white plastic connector at the end…

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Wouldn’t it be nice is that was the problem and I’m just an idiot.

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Bro

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I am the voice of a generation.

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Im probably the smartest person I know.

ebon grove
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So…I plugged in whatever I had unplugged and it’s going good. Pulled a shot. I backed out the opv a 1/4 turn. Didn’t make the pressure any less but it pulled a hot decent shot. Gonna rebuild the steam wand and I’m good to frickin go. Thanks for your help.

ebon grove
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Aaaaaand it’s broken again.

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I had it turned off for about 3 hours and I went to turn it on and there’s no setup indicator blinking. Just a blue screen.

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I’m done with this shit.

ebon grove
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I can’t catch a break. It literally broke while it was off. I had it up and running. Pulled a shot. It was actually a beautiful shot. I was so happy. Turned it off. Drank my americano. Played some warzone with the boys. Came back upstairs. Turned the machine on. Walked away thinking it was gonna do its 3-4 minute heat up. And I come back and it’s doing nothing. Just blue screen. No readout. I’m crushed.

lofty burrow
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Damn that sucks, fuse again ?

ebon grove
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I dnt know. What would be the point in changing it?

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It will just blow again. If that’s the problem.

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I just feel so demoralized. Like I put everything back with the intent of it being the final assembly. Put it back in its spot. All my junk back on top. It was good to go.

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That fuse was on there perfectly and I just triple checked I ordered the right ones.

ebon grove
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You know what’s wild….i mentioned the steam wand was leaking right? Well. I’ll be damned if the water leak is literally directly above the wire that connects to the thermal fuse. I Am almost certain that water leaked onto that cord when I made the americano. Soaked the wire and the next time I turned it on….zap. Dude blown.

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Literally there’s a puddle of moisture directly below the wire from where the steam@wand is dripping.

ebon grove
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That black wire right there. Thats the one that goes to the thermal fuse.

lofty burrow
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You can check the fuse with the DMM continuity check

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YouTube a multimeter tutorial maybe

ebon grove
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Well yes but not the part that’s getting dropped on. The wire is almost made of a cloth material.

ebon grove
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So yea…replaced the thermal fuse AGAIN. Re routed the wire along the other side of the boiler. Hooked everything back up. Machine booted up fine. I ran two shots. I’m gonna leave it on. I didn’t see any leaking. I’m just going to boil water for the American until the steam wand comes in.

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I copped another crossland cc1 on eBay for $300 shipped. I feel dumb because I jumped the gun and I think I finally got the the bottom of the problem. But also…probably doesn’t hurt to have another one of these rare-ish machines on hand for backup or parts. The guts are definitely worth more than $300.

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So it is what it is. Huge learning experience. But I feel like I learned a lot. I HOPE this last fuse replacement did the trick and put that wire out of harms way of water. I’m just not going to touch the steam valve AT ALL until I know that’s good to go.

lofty burrow
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Yeah it’s a cool unique machine

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Yeah maybe you should insulate the whole thing a bit better

ebon grove
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Pulled three shots today. Left it on for a couple hours. Nothing happened.

lofty burrow
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Not sure how that fuse is wired up since it has a ring connector on the end tho

ebon grove
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I’m almost certain that’s what was doing it.

lofty burrow
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Is it connected directly to the control board?

ebon grove
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Well it’s a braided wire with about three strands. Appears to have a white sheath on it and then like a thermal resistant outer sheath

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It is direct to the control board. And honestly. I could NOT get it disconnected.

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The connection looks very similar to usbc but obviously it’s not. But I could for the life of me get it disconnected.

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I did use some shrink tubing. Which I could probably wrap the whole thing like that.

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Even so…it’s on the opposite side of the machine now. I just wrapped it to the other side of the boiler. Same distance.

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But that steam valve. Is basically gushing water the second I turn it. Like a lot of water. And I looked at the machine and saw a puddle directly below the thermal wire. And it clicked. I had literally sorted that fuse myself every single time. Well that’s probably what sorted it the first time. Then I fixed it and it went a second. And third And fourth.

lofty burrow
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Damn unlucky.
Yeah usually they use a resettable fuse screwed into the boiler, makes it a whole lot easier

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Like this

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If you search for espresso 165c thermostat you’ll find it

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I believe it’s a standard m4*0.7 thread

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Red button pops up when it’s triggered

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Press it down and it’s fixed

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But yeah, I’m beginning to wonder if the issue is not the fuse but actually your machine over heating and the OPV not allowing pressure to get out

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Sometimes they get scaled up so badly it doesn’t work anymore, I’ve seen it often

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Maybe you should remove it, disassemble and clean in the descaling solution

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Doesn’t usually work well to descale normally

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Those tubes don’t blow by themselves generally

ebon grove
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You don’t think it was the direct stream of water just pouring over this wire?

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It makes sense to me…because it hasn’t happened since I didn’t use the steam wand today.

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The opv is probably five months old? I recently replaced it.

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I soaked the opv in descaling solution right before the whole thing blew. So listen to the sequence of events.

lofty burrow
ebon grove
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I did a backflush with an empty basket about 6x with cafiza. Then I fill the water reservoir halfway with dezcal solution. I run it through until it’s just about half empty. Then I let it sit a half hour. Then I run it again for the remainder. Let it sit a half hour. Then fill the reservoir with regular water and then flush that through until it’s straight water.

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My machine blew when I was just starting to run the regular water through. POP.

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BUT. that whole time the steam valve was engaged and just water going everywhere inside the machine.

lofty burrow
lofty burrow
ebon grove
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Well I unscrewed it and let it sit in the solution as well. Because the pressure was very high.

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Well. These notoriously have the brings so bad inside of them.

lofty burrow
ebon grove
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There’s a rebuild kit for $15

lofty burrow
ebon grove
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Yes I backed it out 1/4 turn. I thought the top where the nipple is was where to back it out but I was wrong. You helped me understand that.

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Yes for the steam valve.

lofty burrow
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That seems expensive

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But maybe a unique model

ebon grove
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$15 shipping

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This whole exercise has been expensive.

lofty burrow
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It’s a cool machine tho

ebon grove
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And the thread they link to….is a shit show.

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To replace all this.

lofty burrow
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Would’ve liked to have one, but there are non in the EU

ebon grove
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Well…I’m about to have two…I don’t think it would be cheap to ship

lofty burrow
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Nah, got plenty of machines expresser

ebon grove
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I bought a replacement machine on eBay. Whole machine. $250 plus tax and shipping f

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This is my only one. And my first one. But I’ve learned so much.

lofty burrow
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Or sell it here

ebon grove
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I tried to find something similar and in the price range with same features. No dice.

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So…I’m hoping that the steam valve rebuild rids the Janice of the machine of moisture and steam and dampness and solves my problem.

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How far can I back out the opv? You said a whole turn? Because my pressure was at like 11 bar

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Maybe 12

lofty burrow
ebon grove
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Yes

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I guess I’ll try and back it out a bit more once i start fine tuning things.

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I just turned the machine on again…still working.

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Thanks again for all your help

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Can I send you a tip via PayPal or something? Let me buy ya a cup of coffee?

lofty burrow
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Keep it fun for me ehhhh

ebon grove
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Ok. Just want to express my gratitude

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I know the folks in here just kinda do this out of the kindness of their heart.

lofty burrow
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Haha no worries, I’m happy to keep another machine out of the ever growing garbage pile

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And to support the right to repair in different ways

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I honestly get my kicks out of making repair guides and see people actually following them

ebon grove
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Well…here’s hoping that this one gives me another couple years

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Well make one for the crossland cc1 hahaha.

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I’d use it daily

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Their manual is kinda lacking.

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Especially the troubleshooting section

lofty burrow
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Nah probably not necessary, they have a technical party backing it for real issues

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Not saying yours isn’t real but I bet they would’ve been able to fix it yeah?

ebon grove
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No

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There’s no support mate

lofty burrow
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No? Oh

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Bill is long gone ?

ebon grove
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It’s bill crossland. You email him and hopefully you get a reply in a week. He has no parts. No actual help aside from making the machine mods from the original Taiwanese version.

lofty burrow
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But honestly you could make one now. I do it over on HB

ebon grove
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I mean…he did get back to me quickly over the past couple days. But his emails were like one or two lines. One of the emails said. “Sounds like a tough one to troubleshoot”

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“Like that was his support

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Bills replies were like yoda one liners.

lofty burrow
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Home Barists forum^

ebon grove
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Yes. I’ve been on there a bunch.

lofty burrow
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You should, spread the word

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Oh and about that donating a coffee, pass it forward, not back

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Help someone else whenever you can

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Guess that’s the only way we can make this world more generous

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Without jumping up on a moral high horse keknervous

ebon grove
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Well. I’ve kept a very detailed Reddit thread on all of this. So hopefully someone runs across it. If need be

ebon grove
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So…day two. Pulled four shots. Left machine on all day.

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Not a single issue.

ebon grove
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Another update. Woke up again this morning. And for some reason the machine was dead again. Dim blue light on. The display. No readout. No activity or heat.

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This thing is shot. Im@just going to buy another machine.

ebon grove
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Felt zesty and turned the machine on for no reason before I went to bed just to make sure I went to sleep disappointed and it seemed to turn on. I’m gonna rebuild the steam valve. Maybe it’s still@leaking despite not being used.

lofty burrow
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! you're not believing it yet are you xd

ebon grove
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Ya know. I haven’t given up. But I did definitely buy another machine. Look at this deal

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It’s WILD

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I don’t know if Jacob was just feeling sorry for me or generous. But I didn’t even ask. I was bitching about paying $15 for shipping 3 o rings that weight less than an oz. And he was like well ya know…we have this upgrade to a cc2 for cc1 users. And I said what’s the catch. I thought I’d have to mail my machine in. No catch. I just paid today. $300 out the door for a brand new sealed cc2 machine. I’d even have taken an open box for that price.

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Good deal right? So. I have some o rings coming in from eBay. I’m going to disassemble the steam valve. It will be a lot less pressure because if I can’t fix it. So what I have another machine. If I do. Great.

lofty burrow
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wait you got a brand new one?

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also, remove your address from above^^

ebon grove
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Omg. So the saga continues.

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Yes I got a brand new v2 coming Friday. I just couldn’t keep going on like this.

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So…I got the valve rebuild kit. And I ABSOLUTELY destroyed the steam valve shaft sleeve

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And the clip the switch mounts to

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Like absolutely shredded it. Couldn’t get it to loosen. It was so stuck.

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I thought it was just like a hex washer from the way it looked at the surface. And I couldn’t get it off so I started filing it with a metal file. Turns out….its a whole piece that you can’t buy anymore anywhere.

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I tried heat. I tried vice grips and all kinds of stuff. Wouldn’t budge. Two hours I was working on loosening that part. And it’s absolutely destroyed.

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So….RIP

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And no one sells the valve assembly.

ebon grove
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last update. i was able to bend everything back to its shape. i got the rebuild kit for the wand. i got the lubraicant for the seals. i spent no less than 2 hours trying to get it all back together and NOT leak. all this thing does is leak. i ordered a new machine a couple weeks ago from pantechnicon. $300 shipped out the door no tax. it came today. old machine retired as a parts graveyard

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bill was no help