✅ - Faceplate not staying open

[distant niche]

Walsh's MK3 helmet using Crashworks ALISHA mk6 board and MG90 servos
Opens and closes fine now, but if my head isnt tilted back, the weight of the faceplate makes it slowly fall back down after opening

Looking at a different post, is the problem my servos? They have no dead stop that I can see, guess that makes them 360 not 180?
The Crashworks board stops it fine. Just the drooping back down at the end sucks.

[heavy pagoda]

Hey @distant niche, thank you for contributing to this forum.
Please provide as much information (images, video, description) as you can. This will increase the chance that someone can help you with your issue.
Use the Close button when your issue is resolved.

[inner bough]

Sorry to jump in, but I am experiencing the same issue and have apparently the same set up as @distant niche . Let me try to upload a video of the issue and some additional info.

It seems the servo has more than enough strength to open and close the faceplate very effectively, but after it is opened it seems the power is cut right after, and then gravity just pulls the faceplate back down. You can see the mask is closed but the eyes are still turned off. If you press the switch again then the mask closes and the eyes light up. I am using ALISHA MK-X-j Version with Audio. My servo motors behave exactly the same as mentioned by @distant niche . They are MG90S and they don't have a hard stop, you can rotate them continuously and they never reach a hard stop.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KXM5L7Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

@distant niche , dont have the intention to hijack your post, just posted because I believe I am experiencing the exact same issue you are describing and decided to contribute here, and also see if the community can help. Have been trying to find more info about the issue, but unsuccessful so far. Will update here if I do. Please let me know if my posts above relates to your issue, I will be more than happy to delete them if they don't. Thank you.

I am powering the ALISHA board through a Penelope board, to keep the power bank alive, but the issue is the same with or without the Penelope board connected. I am connecting to my power bank using it's USB C port, which delivers 5V/3.0A, matching the top end of ALISHA power recommendation. I also have a USB A port, but that one is 5V/4.5A. Never tried the USB A since its amperage is much higher.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BBCPC3X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

[river dagger]

u can either change the code to keep them on, or use elastic bands

im shooting for the elastic on my helmet.

[inner bough]

Hey Mashuagames, would the elastic band lift the faceplate when closed, because I suspect the issue is the servos are being powered off. I will try to see if I can modify the code, did not make any change to the ALISHA board so far, running it stock.

[river dagger]

look up samurai motorization kit on google, that one uses the ellastic bands! you can use a similar idea to keep the helmet open

[river dagger]

if the elastic is elastic enough itll open and close no problem, you cxan even experiment with rubber bands, which is what i dide

@inner bough

[distant niche]

Sooo what does Frank use? Ive never seen him mention anything about keeping the faceplate open in his videos

[inner bough]

Thank you @river dagger , will check it out for sure

[distant niche]

Where do you attach them?

[river dagger]

no clue what frank uses, to be honest it looks like he codes it to stay on when he opens it, but turn off when he closes it if that makes sense, or he just has it to where the arms go up and it doesnt push it down

[river dagger]

it looks like yours does not go up enough though

[distant niche]

if using elastic or rubber bands, where do you attach them on each piece?

[distant niche]

Not going up high enough? Really?

Seems to go as high as its programmed to. I dont see the arms hitting anywhere where it stops

[inner bough]

Still trying to find a solution here. Trying to see if I can do anything to not have extra items attached to the face mask, but I may have to use the elastic solution if everything fails. I tried to tighten up the screws for the arms. It works better now, but the faceplate still closes. Will try to see if I can change the code to keep it open, but it looks like it adds a lot of stress and heat to the servos.

I wonder if we are experiencing this because we went with the 360 degrees servos instead of 180, or if everyone has this issue and only way to fix is using elastic. Frank however does not seem to suffer from this issue.

[distant niche]

Been wondering the same thing about the servos.. if that is the issue, I'm open to replacing them! Lol

Trying to figure out where we would attach the rubber band/elastic too.. that would keep it open, but not pry it open when closed

[inner bough]

Hey @distant niche , this is the person @river dagger mentioned. The elastic mounts are in one of the pictures. https://thesamuraistore.tech/?product=definitive-motorization-kit-stl

[distant niche]

Yea I looked at that last night but couldnt see well enough where to attach

I took my faceplate off and tested my servos motion. Its definitely not being blocked by arms / friction. It's only rotationg 130 degrees. Is that normal or is it supposed to be 180?
(troubleshooting @river dagger 's observation mine wasnt going high enough)

[distant niche]

Crap. Looks like you cant simply and easily modify the code to change the angle either..

[distant niche]

Well I went through the steps of installing fresh code and now my mask opens / closes the same direction depending on its position (if mostly open, it fully opens.. and tries to again if I hit the switch)

[river dagger]

Hey sniper, I don’t know too much about the code, I would hit up @undone vigil they helped me out a lot on this !

[distant niche]

What about the attachment points for elastic/rubber bands? so that it holds open, but doesnt pull it up at all when closed

[river dagger]

The top of the mask, experiment with the placement on your helmet I have the mk 85

[inner bough]

Hey @distant niche , tuned in Frank's stream and asked him how to solve this issue. He said we should not code to keep the motors on, or will burn the servos. He had this issue with his Starboost, and the way he kept the faceplate from drifting down was using magnets

[distant niche]

I just watched that part of the stream. So awesome, he suggests putting them in the exact way I came up with myself here -> #crashworks3d-questions message
😄

[inner bough]

Hey @distant niche , can you post a picture where you placed the magnets and an update if worked for you ?

[distant niche]

Havent done that yet

[inner bough]

Sounds good, please post here when you do and I will do the same.

[elfin whale]

Isn’t there a setting in the code that talks about “if yours falls after opening this ___”

[inner bough]

Not sure, can you post the section you are referring to?

[distant niche]

Yes, its the setting that keeps the servos engaged. The whole overheat/drain thing

[distant niche]

Once everything was on it no longer falls. so closing this. but @inner bough , Frank shows where he put his magnets in https://youtu.be/XzdGMOeOueQ?list=PLS53UH7lHUPg4msw2Q8yAstGfmJy_7Fo1&t=763

[heavy pagoda]

This thread is closed now :white_check_mark: