slow merlin
Looking for tips on a magnetic switch I can use that would start the lights when the range finder is fully down.
Was first thinking on a angle/tilt relay (proper name?) but they might trigger if you bend forward so would like to add a small magnetic switch that start the lights instead.
Tips?
raven orchidBOT
Hey @slow merlin, thank you for contributing to this forum.
Please provide as much information (images, video, description) as you can. This will increase the chance that someone can help you with your issue.
Use the Close button when your issue is resolved.
tacit narwhal
Depends where you are mounting your electronics, if it's all stored in the end a tilt switch is ideal, but if you have a hollow RF stalk it would be possible to fit a magnetic reed switch inside the stalk near the bottom then have a magnet in a place on the helmet where it would be activated when in the down position. something like this: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/magnetic-proximity-switches/5308911. Im from the UK so I don't know if this place ships anywhere else.
slow merlin
@tacit narwhal thanks. having it in the stalk was my idea as it would prevent a tilt switch from going on/off if I would remove bucket or lean forward.
I live within EU but I can probably find something similar locally. thanks for the help 🙂
Any other suggestions and/or ideas for mando electronics. trying to make a plan on what to do/add so I am not coming up with things after a fact and might not have printed parts with electronics in mind 😦
slow merlin
got suggestion of hallelement (think that is the english word?) as well to use instead of a magnetic reed switch. and place the hall in the helmet and a small magnet in the stalk.
tacit narwhal
got suggestion of hallelement (think that is the english word?) as well to use i...
having the switch in the helmet would be better i think, it would make it easier to fix if something went wrong down the line.
which mando helmet are you making, Boba Fett?
slow merlin
MysteryMakers Boba Helmet. So there is a pre-made room for a servo and wire in the stalk. so thinking on connecting LEDs in the range finder and program a arduino (arduino CH340 USB driver 16Mhz ATMEGA328P maybe?) to do the range finder tracking sequence from season two when the dark troopers get Grogu.
and that would activate when the LEDs in the rangefinder
tacit narwhal
Nice, I did a Boba Fett last year but I didn't have time to do the electronics, if you are an arduino controlled servo would you need a mag switch anyway? could you not program the LEDs to start flashing acording the the angle of the servo? because you will know when the servo is in the 'down' position then you could use software to control the LEDs
slow merlin
@tacit narwhal true... true true... big brain thinking @tacit narwhal 😄
no, the SG90s for the rangefinder.
I think that would work with arduino.
if nothing else, see if one can do a timing on how long it would switch the servo on to do the motion and then activate the LED cycle after that.
I made things too damn complicated 😄
tacit narwhal
you can look up the compatibility of the hardware, personally I wouldn't use ali express, i know it's super cheap, but half the time you actually dont get hte part you ordered.
You can also just sequence the code the the Lights start after the servo has moved, wait as long as you want it down (or until you press the button again) then it moves back up and the light turn off
tacit narwhal
if nothing else, see if one can do a timing on how long it would switch the serv...
simpler is always better
Like this
slow merlin
@tacit narwhal I had luck with ali so far. thing is I can get 5 incl. shipping for the price if ½ locally. and in that case I rather be the douche and get 5 for potentially other projects 😄
tacit narwhal
<@315842827563040769> I had luck with ali so far. thing is I can get 5 incl. shi...
Fair enough, I mean they're so cheap it's not that much of a problem if they don't work.
slow merlin
and if they do not, usually they are rather good in compensating as they are terrified of bad reviews.
tacit narwhal
does this make sense?^^
slow merlin
yea. best would be if the servo can do the 90° and then activate the code when that action is done.
the example code i have that suggest the SG90s have a 90° variable in it.
so that seem to be a thing that would work.
tacit narwhal
yes so in that case you'd want to add in another If statement between the roation and the LEDs, IF 'servo at 90 degrees' start LED sequence
slow merlin
nice. then I just need to learn the arduino code thingy. seen there is a drag and drop graphical UI that should be enough 😄
asked in a a more general chat but. opinion on one larger arduino and connect all pieces (gauntlets, helmet etc) to that or one arduino nano per "item" so one in each gauntlet and one in helmet or maybe one for helmet and right gauntlet as wires wouldn't be too long.
tacit narwhal
asked in a a more general chat but. opinion on one larger arduino and connect al...
I've never made full costumes but off the top of my head there are ups and downs for both, if theres was one master arduino it would make it very easy to sync up different sequences and it'd be cheaper but there would be more complex code and you'd have long wires across your body. Seperate systems would be good if the sequences on your gauntlets were entirely isolated sequences that didn't interact with oyur other components but it would be more expensive.
But as I said I don't do full costumes only helmets so it'd be best to ask someone who's done it before.
slow merlin
well I never made one so you know more than me 😉
thinking of getting the Arduino Nano with 16Mhz ATMEGA328P. apparently the P use less power so it would suit for a cosplay.
tacit narwhal
yeah it's a solid choice