So, I somewhat recently got my first set of electronics to do a DIY install with a Golden Harvest v3 phase 4, and I've got it wired up, and everything works, except the LED3 pad remains on even if the blade is turned off. I checked continuity on the wires looking for a short, but it seems that the pad itself has continuity to the negative terminal on the board itself, even when the other LED pads don't. Has anyone encountered this before and know any potential solutions, or did I bork the board at some point during assembly?
#Golden Harvest v3 LED3 Won't Turn Off
33 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
are you sure it's not a programming issue?
It's possible, but I did try to re-flash the SD card, and nothing changed
If it were a software issue, where would I be looking to change the setting? I didn't find anything in the documentation about designating what LEDs are accents vs blade LEDs, though it's possible I missed it
i'm not sure, i've never used a GH
Can you post a photo of how you wired your saber and can you confirm you wired it as a Tri-Cree instead of a pixel saber?
I'll take a picture tomorrow morning, as it's in the lab at work. That being said, the other two LEDs work fine
Just got into the lab, here are the photos. The four wires connected to the LEDs are as such:
- Red to LED1
- Green to LED2 (bottom pad, because I accidentally ripped off the pad on the top)
- Blue to LED3 (disconnected currently, as it doesn't turn off)
- Black to Batt. + (It's red at the GHv3, but the LED board came with a black lead)
LED6 is connected to an illuminated switch, with the other pole of that going to Batt. -. Other than that it should be a standard wiring layout
I'm pretty sure the negative wire for blue needs to be connected to the pad that's to the right of the one that ripped off.
Yes, but when I do that the blue LED stays on all the time
GG @jovial jetty, you just advanced to level 1!
Odd. Some of your solder joints could use some cleaning up, so that might help.
I've checked the continuity from ground to the other pads, nothing else has a short, so I don't think it's the solder on the pads
And the red wire on the bottom needs to be replaced. That burn mark isn't good.
OK.
I did check that wire, and while the burning definitely isn't great, there aren't any holes in the insulation and hasn't caused any issues. I'll probably wrap the section in kapton or electrical tape, or just put some shrink tube over it
More updates
When I check continuity from leg 1 on the red or green chips to leg 2 or 3 on the other two chips, I get a short and the corresponding light turns on. However, leg 1 on the blue chip doesn't have that behavior
Nvm, all three have the same behavior when the LED is actually attached
I'm going to try and do a firmware update. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try to remake all my fonts with LED4 as blue and just not use LED3
Ah, that could solve it. I've not done too much playing around with GHv3 as a baselit, although I do have a couple installed that way.
Could you adjust the general.txt file to indicate that you're using LED 4 instead of 3 to avoid having to make the changes in all of the font folders?
I didn't see any setting like that in general.txt, nor any documentation on how I'd add that. Otherwise that's probably what I would have done originally
I just looked and didn't see anything either. It's not like Proffie where you can change the pads.
Firmware update didn't fix it, time to manually redo all of the fonts
I have a feeling I'm going to do a Proffie next time
Can't figure out how to get the board to designate LED4 as a blade LED
GG @jovial jetty, you just advanced to level 2!