#Mister Pi Users
1 messages · Page 7 of 1
I messaged taki asking for a new stick with my order, but I fully expect that to be too ridiculous of an ask. My brain worms made me do it
I was wondering about that too, I wouldn't mind ordering a "new" sdram purely for testing
Addons like sdram was on stock all the time, so I guess there are plenty of them beeing made. But we will see when first batch 2 packs arrive
I picked up a SDram from Taki and it tests fine. This is one of the ones with the sticker too
Print got messed up but I need to figure out which one is more jaguar
Have you got a brown ? ...
I cant see a toilet. Maybe 3d print the cd add-on?
Jokes aside, maybe the black top looks more jaguar'ish
yeah, running an experiment with a smooth plate
black top one looks nice 🙂
I asked this in the help channel but it was suggested i come here: anyone have any experience putting together the official acryllic case for the mister pi? I feel really stupid trying to figure this out and i cant find any official instructions anywhere.
The bottom should have different sized slots on each side, one small and one large, one of each on each side. The side panels will only hook in one way. Be careful the bottom isn’t upside down
the keying of the panels isnt what's getting me
i cant figure out which way to arrange the standoffs and screws that let the side panels sit flush with the base plate
oh, i wonder if it needs the spacers
did it come with spacers?
trying to remember how the 3d printed one fit together
it came with a fresh set of standoffs, some screws, and some nuts that i honestly dont know what to do with
Ok, so the nuts go on the bottom
like between the bottom panel and power board, or beneath the bottom panel
Between the usb hub and the bottom. I believe it should be bottom panel, small standoffs, nuts, usb board. Try that and see if it lines up
alright so i found these pictures taki posted to twitter
Reprinted on the smooth plate and I really can’t decide
it feels like none of the screws or standoffs are long enough to connect the bottom panel to the usb board while still letting the rest of the standoffs work
i like the left
that is where I'm leaning
so if you do screw, bottom panel, small standoff, nut, usb board, do the usb ports line up?
do they line up with the side panel I should say
Ok, take the standoffs out, just use the nuts
so this is the only way I've managed to get the thing to sit flush, but now I don't know how to get the rest of the puzzle together.
Ok perfect. Pull the board out. Lets put the stack together
this is like the extent of play the screw gives
no
all the screws are this short
that's the problem lol
I feel like it was supposed to come with longer screws
like i can see what the nuts are doing, but the screws are like, just not long enough to go from the bottom panel, past the nut, and through the usb board so it can attach to another standoff
@strong falcon what are we doing wrong here?
im just gonna set this off to the side and try to figure out what i need to do differently. get longer screws, w/e
I wonder if they shipped you the wrong screws. Just to be clear: just a standoff on the bottom (with the screw screwed into it) is too tall?
not long enough. the screw part of the standoffs are the same length as the screws i have
nope.
like i said, i'll try to figure it out tomorrow, im frustrated and just wanna enjoy what night i have left before bed. feel like this rn
fair enough. hopefully taki pokes their head in and has some guidance
I think those are not meant for the bottom
this is one of each of the standoffs, screws, and what have you I got in the mail today (I think the short standoffs are from the original thing I ordered but I just mixed em in with the rest)
all the screws (8 of em) are identical
(also side note, I seem to only have 3 rubber feet but I'm not that concerned)
These are the included hardware
Long screws go on the bottom, short screws on the top
Those are to increase the height of the white button
okay so i seem to have just not gotten the long screws
these are the only screws I have. the 4 that came with the mister and the 4 that were in the bag of hardware with the case
Very strange
what're the dimensions of the longer screws? I can just get some myself.
Your bag should have had five small (or at least four), and five long screws (or at least 4).
i only have the short screws, whoever packed my thing up mustve forgotten the long ones. like whatever, shit happens.
im just happy to know that im not stupid.
4px has my mister pi batch 2 order sweet.
Once that comes and I set up the SD card. If you want me to test anything, send photos of it. Test the ram. I'm more than happy to do so
And probably for the first time anyone has said this.
I'm happy to play that RE2 N64 on whatever version of the core you want me to try 🙂
nah, no reason to believe it won’t work. I’d run a mem test for piece of mind, but beyond that, you should be good to go
My RetroRemake case came
And it looks like I have the correct screws
How many cases do I need for 1 mister. 🤪
Consider it another way of playing dress up. Switch to whatever suits your mood! If I had a 3D printer I’d be in a lot of trouble.
Was just printing the buttons to finish the N64 case and the Taki case showed up at my door lol
I’m going to need a custom case for my custom stack:
MisterAddons Analog IO Pro
Mister Pi
Mister Pi USB hub
Is the MA IO board working well with the MiSTer Pi?
Can’t say since I don’t have my Mister Pi yet. But Taki confirmed it’s compatible
I’ll definitely report back when I have everything.
Well that was a pain in the ass. Something doesn’t seem exactly right, the sides of the top and bottom are bowing out. Bottom looks like pins/solder joints are pushing it down
Did you use the nuts in the bottom?
those nuts are in that bottom
so someone on taki's discord mentioned the bottom could be...upside down
I have no idea if that is real or not
It is. I took the thing apart 4 times to get it oriented the right way
The panels are all keyed differently
if you still have the spare long screw, could you tell me how long it is, if possible? never got an answer out of taki.
10mm
thank you!
for anyone interested, i'll be launching a USB-C to USB-C with inline switch adapter next week. Limited quantities for the first run. Also another run of the USB-C to 5v barrel adapters
I can attest to the quality of these (not that Todd needs folks attesting to the quality of his shit)
Taki Mega Stack edition
ETA pls?
Dunno
Hope to be able to show something by the end of the weekend
Had to make some adjustments to the size of the case to fit it
Amazing!!!
Mister pi is not a dual ram setup? i was under the impression a mega pack had dual ram?
No kit is a dual RAM setup, no. You would have to order a separate extra RAM module if you want dual RAM.
you can convert it to dual ram by removing the L shaped analog board and installing another stick of RAM onto the pins that frees up
installing dual SDRAM disables the VGA output, so HDMI only
(can still use directvideo to get analog if needed)
Besides saturn, does dual ram help with performance or anything else?
You can run the Jaguar core
ah yeah, that was the other thing i was missing
There’s a dual ram version of the PSX core that reduces audio latency at a human imperceptible level
there’s no point to using it (hence why it’s not officially distributed) but you can use that I guess lol
Right now the only compelling reason is for the Atari Jaguar core. The turbo option on the single Saturn core mitigates the slowdown for the three fighting games that use it. Dual ram really isn’t needed for Saturn.
And the core is still in development so that can be further improved in the future like I’ve been saying from the beginning.
Classic Robby, he is always telling people to run out and buy 10 rams and that cores are done forever and don’t change. Buy buy buy. Thanks to Robby I have 47 rams
I just keep taping them to the side of my case
More power to you if you go dual ram. Honestly, it’s probably just a $20 investment at this point. I just say all that shit so people don’t get hit by FOMO.
For full transparency I did swap back to my dual ram build and it was just for Atari Jaguar. I haven’t even given enough of a shit to play one of the three fighting Saturn games that benefit from dual ram lol.
I also bought rams for my mistercades for less compromise Saturn but I haven’t been motivated to install them 😅
It’s like 6 screws, ain’t nobody got time for that
Are those 3 fighting games on Saturn available as better cores (ie, Arcade) elsewhere anyway?
Nah they’re all VF engine based.
Model 2 baybeeeee
I think Grandia still needs dual ram on Saturn
Fast ram option still gave me tiles flickering on single ram
yeah, the weird thing about grandia is I think it was working on the stable version at some point?
There might be hope then 🙏
Hot damn 4px is fast (I think)
4 days in transit and my order has already cleared UK customs.
Yeah 4PX is fast to the UK
That’s good to know I think there the cheapest option
Yeah it was
no shipment for my Batch 2 order yet, possibly because I ordered separate parts instead of a pre-installed kit
yeah
I would bet that is it
I know they are QAing any ram not included in the packs as it goes out
We’re you charged any customs tax?
Touch wood, I haven't had any notification yet of any customs tax.
However, I'm not sure who's delivering it in the UK.
(I paid for 4px obviously, but I don't know who the next courier in the UK would be)
My order came to £137 with the shipping I believe.
4PX is usually delivered by Royal Mail
It's a great deal for a mister setup 🙂 Hopefully you don't get any tax, but even if you do i doubt it would be much. Keep us updated mate 👍
Ah sweet
I can't wait. Got lots and lots of games to play and complete.
If someone orders multiple Pi’s and they got delivered, do you ask them if they got their “pies” or “piss”
sorry, my entire M.O. is to make people laugh and get conversations going, I hope I didn’t offend anyone
Throwing that out there ❤️
You offend no one. I'm sorry if Jordan communicated the wrong sentiment. He is a little intense
"Did you receive your 2π?"
"You think I'm a casual? I got 4π."
USB-C to USB-C adapter with built in switch for TakiUdon / RetroRemake MiSTer Pi.
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1832675927/switched-usb-c-to-usb-c-for-mister-pi?ref=listings_manager_grid
in case you guys are looking for one
is that a pixel version of your frog logo? If so that's a nice touch!
Indeed it is
good switch feel too
Got one of these today Tod! Lets see how long does it take to get into 🇧🇷. (customs are not very effective around here, and specially around this time of year)
Praying for you so you don’t get the Love Tariff 🙏
We bout to get the love tariff here in the states. lol
MY EGGS ARE GOING TO BE SO CHEAP
Enjoy !
I shall.
One noticeable thing I saw with the ram. Is that it doesn't have a sticker anymore. It's etched in if that makes sense
Oh and for the people that asked or are still curious. The SNES snac adapter is just for one controller.
It's nice to see they added the level shifter too as it wasn't mentioned originally
Excellent it arrived quickly, no customs charges?
Nope
Tracked 48hr when it gets to the UK. As thats the label on my package.
The 3.0 ram that came with my Batch 2. Incase people were curious. Il mem test at some point
I was thinking of preordering batch 3 but i wish he went with the n64 snac instead of the nfc reader adapter...
Il probably pick up various snac adapters from Mister fpga
I think Taki sees it as a 'free gift'. I guess some people might have preferred the batch 2 gift (SNES Snac and level shifter). Than the batch 1 gift (WiFi+Bluetooth usb)
Good idea he has a good selection, hopefully he starts stocking saturn ones
I quite like the sound of the GB link port Snac adapter.
Hopefully there's a GBA link port too. That would be handy
Especially for trading Pokémon and getting the trade evolutions.
True i would say that snes snac and level shifter is the best freebie so far.
Yeah, to be fair I wouldn't have minded the WiFi adapter.
Just ordered one from mister fpga. As well as a case.
But, I'm happy. I can't wait to use the SNES Snac adapter to play some SNES games. I still haven't played Earthbound. Or even finished Super Mario.
I can't say i've played Earthbound either but it looks like a fun game i like the art style. I have 3 snes controllers so i should look into getting a snac.
I played through earthbound on my psclassic a few years ago- other than some questionable difficulty spikes (there are a couple bosses that are much harder than everything around them) and the aspect ratio, it holds up extremely well. I didn’t have to consult a guide for any part of it I don’t think
The trick is not to run away from anything unless you absolutely have to, otherwise you’ll be underleveled and have to grind
Is mister pi pronounced "mister pie" or "mister pee"?
“Ms Derpy”
I got my tracking info, and it says it's shipping from China. I thought Taki Udon already QAed these boards. Is he in China?
He is
yes, retroremake is based in china
Yeah he has personal connections with people there. It's how he was able to get these manufactured in the first place
Seen a couple posts floating about in Taki's discord regarding people's orders being sent back.
It seems that the returned packages didn’t even leave China. Wrong address maybe?
That happened with my batch 1 order
got a new job, great! But no more single board + ram available on RR site , sad
What happens in that situation? Does it get redelivered or do you just get a refund?
it got sent back out
Well now i have 2 Mister Pi's. second one just showed up at my door
so do i connect the level shifter to the SNES Snac and then to the SNAC port on the mister pi. i picked up a SNES controller last week.
yes, I believe that is correct
sweet. maybe i try it out tomorrow.
Yes the level shifter converts 5V logic to 3.3v for the FPGA board
I don’t get this level shifter thing. Doesn’t the SNAC adapter already do the level shift? Why a separate level shifter?
depends on the SNAC adaptor really. Some sellers sell custom stand alone versions with shifters built in
The PS1 and N64 do not need the shifter board
SNAC adapters should include level shifters for controllers that require it. It shouldn’t be optional
Does 4px shipping use a secondary carrier? My ram stick says it was delivered in China, but I'm in Canada?
Returned to sender
It’s happening to some people
No word from Taki about this yet?
yeah, likely what bootsector said. Someone asked on the taki discord and the response from support was that all the shipments that went out on one of the days had to be recalled because some of them were missing components
from the taki discord
If you follow the stock designs like a lot of sellers do they are optional. Really the shifter board is the SNAC adaptor with just various boards to change the controller
all it doesn it connect the controller to the spare GPIO lines
also, use 4px’s site to track. the one that was linked in my tracking info didn’t have the “last leg” info (the service that delivers it after it reaches canada) http://track.4px.com
even some of the third party designs still need the bliss cables per controller, so doesnt solve much
thanks for the answers, folks
indeed it looks like it has been returned to sender. wonder when will this ship out
Don't worry, Taki delivers!
But I know how frustrating it is when we planned to play some games (i.e., the memtest core) during the thanksgiving!
yeah, i'mpartly to blame for that
come to think of it, i never submitted a pull request with my changes lol
Oh, right on! You're the 🇧🇷 guy that improved memtest, right? Hope you don't get the Love Tariff! 🙏
yup, brazilian canadian... i get hit with tariffs twice now, it's so great
nothing major, just extended the range of clock speeds tested. mostly targeting the 62.5MHz clock used in the N64 clock, as the first Mister Pi boards were struggling with it. Robert managed to fix it in the core however
oh right right right
I still think your changes to memtest are awesome and well deserve a PR 🙂
yes
agreed
I use yours over the official whenever I get a new mister
which...uh...is far more frequent than it should be?
That's the best part about getting a new MiSTer 😄
i'm lowkey sad Memtest wasn't nominated the for Game Awards
i mean if a DLC can make it, why can't it?
Can you switch it to use 3.3v instead of 5v?
I didn't know that was possible
i can't say i ever noticed the fan on my batch 1
Yep just did it and it's a lot quieter now. I'm guessing the Mister Pi won't overheat with me using 3.3v instead of 5v?
I've seen someone else mention it, I think on X.
The difference in noise between 5v and 3.3v is very noticeable
3.3v is silent compared to 5v
Yeah you generally don't need 5v. It's overkill. The FPGA doesn't get that hot.
Sweet thank you
I only use a heatsink on my QMtech build with no issues
I believe the fan was only added to cover a possible edge case in the first place
Ah, sweet thank you
My fan started to run really loud. I got a batch 1 device been mostly keeping it on. Can I just replace it with a noctua one? If so which model/size?
40mm, 5V
If it’s not a fully enclosed case there’s always the option of just unplugging it. It doesn’t really need a fan, the DE10 doesn’t even come with so much as a heat sink
3-pin, correct?
yeah
Awesome, thanks a lot. I’m going to put this into a case soon anyways so it’s kind of good all of this happened prior to receiving that lol
I think they have two versions, one is 1cm tall, the other 2cm, so you'll probably need the 1cm one if you're using a case
Featuring advanced aerodynamic design measures such as Flow Acceleration Channels and an AAO standard frame, the NF-A4x10 5V is a dedicated 5V version of Noctua’s highly optimised, premium quality quiet 40x10mm fan. Smooth Commutation Drive technology and Noctua’s reference class SSO2 bearing guarantee superb running smoothness and excellent lon...
I found this on amazon usa - https://a.co/d/dGjnEHm
Yeah, that's the one
Awesome, thanks a lot
@delicate hazel the de10-nano was designed to run in open air with no fan. The fan is there for case builds but even then we haven't seen a case to my understanding of the fpga being damaged by heat.
Rather, the cooling is there because if the temperature hits a certain threshold, it can cause timing differences which makes complex cores operate incorrectly, leading to odd glitches or crashes. Nothing gets damaged, but the complex cores like ao486 or amiga may not run completely correctly until you adjust the cooling to keep the FPGA below that threshold. Even the MiSTer Addons aluminum case is a fanless build, but he's rigorously tested to be sure it pulls enough heat off the fpga to the aluminum housing for any amount of time, keeping it below the known threshold at all times.
It is a very forgiving threshold but it can be met in a case without proper fan cooling or heat piping.
As for the MiSTer Pi, I cannot speak for it's heat tolerances myself.
Thank you very much for that detailed write up. I did change the fan jumper on the Io board to 3v. There's a huge difference in noticeable audio from the fan.
From I've seen it was added for an edge case that if the ARM side gets hammered but it's a slim to none
The QMtech automotive variant has a thermal limit of 120c, DE10 and Taki are slightly lower than this
FPGAs are low power and low frequency so there isn't much to worry about
On my DE10 build i use an Retrocastle board with just the fan and no heatsink due to the height
Even without a fan or heatsink in a case you would be lucky to measure much more than 60c
Still unfulfilled! Wondering if it will be shipped along with Batch 3 orders? 🤣😔
Has anyone found a 3D printed case for the batch 2 snac adapter?
I wonder if something like this would just work https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4573627
I designed this to accompany the SNAC NES case. This fits snug around my SNES adapter, and keeps it nice looking as well as protecting from shorts. It snaps together when I pull it out of my printer, and it's a tight fit, so it doesn't need glue or screws. That could just be my printer though.One thing I found was I needed to increase the Z-Heig...
NO CLICK IT, IT'S REAL

The fan helps also to cool down the other chips a bit. The Taki clone has some chips that run hot if the power supply is more than the 5V. irc there are temps about 65-75 degrees Celsius for the power converter chips.
There's a buck converter on the board that turns 12v and 9v down to 5v. 12v can make the converter get hot
For those of you wondering, the case is just slightly too narrow for the PCB. I wonder how hard it would be to widen it in fusion
Cut it in Bambu studio and scale the cut part slightly
Or scale the whole axis
I could do it pretty quick if you know how much more you need
Here, I widened it for you - https://tinyurl.com/Batch2Snac
lolol
Switch USB-C adapters back in stock. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1832675927/switched-usb-c-to-usb-c-for-mister-pi?transaction_id=4376218167
So this isn't quite perfect, but it's good enough for government work
If anyone needs a simple clip together case for the sega Saturn SNAC adaptor let me know and I will upload it
Ok. Batch 2 fulfillment is taking too long now. Maybe I should just cancel it and get a Batch 3 or 4 next year?
Here’s an update - https://tinyurl.com/Batch2Snac
You got me on that you bastard 🤣
lol I’m sorry, I had to try, I got shot down twice earlier today 
mine finally shipped out on friday
Mines up and running solid, well packaged. no issues yet
Still waiting on mine to ship but everything else has come in so far... Really excited to use this on it
oh nice
@fleet swallow just wanting to say love the little green print ❤️ ... hope the taki case will work out alright when it finally comes in when ever that may be lol
welp my batch 1 acrylic case finally arrived tonight. I managed to barely snap it into place without having to disassemble the bolting I'd already put together, it was way harder to fit the pieces together than I'd expected.
it took me longer to put that case together than it did to flash the sd card and get to playing like its 1985
I also feel silly because the screws, like, fit? But also don't fully seat?
This was posted in the taki discord. I didn't end up ordering a batch one case, but I did have Taki's original 3d printed case printed, and I believe the layout is the same
thank you for that, but also blurgh kind of, at the thought of disassembling and reassembling again. but maybe.
I know :/
I wish Taki had included instructions
He has probably assembled so many that he is just kind of blind to seeing it with fresh eyes
actually I think mine is already that construction! or maybe like one thing is different. I may just live with it. it's pick-uppable and doesn't look like a terrifying exposed series of boards
more that this'll be a useful order of operations when my batch 2.0 board arrives
looks like i did it right
even the how to online that had pictures of that case went to videos of another case
I have qmtech that has a loud fan, any fixes?
lol, funny you should ask because I thought the same thing when I read Falafell’s comment. You can just unscrew it from the heatsink
Gotcha I’ll try that out!
Yeah I purchased my QMtech board and IO/USB board separate
The fan and heatsink were not fitted and the fan looked so small it didn't seem any real point in fitting it
It's a magnet to put on the fridge 🫶
Can you use dual ram on mister pi if you don't use that analog board that comes with it?
Yes
You just need to pop off the little mezzanine board that plugs into the clone de10, you can keep the rest of the IO board
Great 👍
I'm contemplating buying one for a friend who is broke right now, but he loves grandia so dual ram is probably the way to go so he can play the saturn version without issues.
I take it the dip switches on the mister pi are the same as on the de10?
Yep
might do a run of this color scheme if there is enough intererest
Looks hot, if I had a Mister Pi I’d definitely go for that one
Just curious but do you know if it's compatible with the mt32pi lite?
is what compatible with the mt32pi lite?
The case, The Lite just plugs into the user port. The issue is if the case is too thick the USB connector doesnt fit fully into the user port. It was designed for the stock PCB material cases really
^
all good
only thing i see about it is this https://misterfpga.org/viewtopic.php?t=4905 which implies removing the back and using wafer head bolts
Yeah it's one solution
do you know anywhere that goes over the bolt/nut size? i dont see it off hand in the addons section of the github https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Hardware_MiSTer/tree/master/Addons/MT32PiHat_LT
but i might not be looking at the right thing
Heads up to Batch 1 case people (or those who bought Taki's case ala carte) - the standoffs are different than typical cases and it is decently slimmer (shown with the MisterFPGA UK acrylic case for Mister Pi)
how different is it comparing both snac ports?
as thats what i was afraid of
All ports line up similar, Taki's case uses a nut spacer on the bottom instead of a brass one and the midsize spacer on top instead of the long one is the only difference really
I can photo when I'm in front of it again shortly
ah so the distance from the user port to the top lip is the same between the 2?
it looked shorter but then again
Oh you're right, acrylic from UK is roomier
that said it does look like the case sits closer to the ports and is thinner so maybe itll work out
I don't know enough about the mt32pilite, but I imagine @gritty herald's case would work fine with it. It's flat on the side, no lip like the acrylic cases
I just used some flat headed nuts and bolts that fitted. I don't remember any specifics
It's more the thickness etc
ahh
I personally didn't like the lite and went back to a zero 2 version with the little screen
My MT32-pi spends most of its life as a dust catcher
Yea I have a few in my screw bin from all the laptops I've done
But need to figure nuts
Lol
But maybe the case will be thin enough that I won't need to cause it does look thinner and sits closer to the port....
Maybe...
Yeah it's worth trying before any DIY
Don’t lie to us, you already ordered a CNC company to do a SuperSega case for your Mister
Honestly, I hope someone memorializes that fucking monstrosity. If it’s a mister case, great, I’m in
Do like a mister with the usb hub and io board side by side rather than stacked. Maybe add a zaparoo slot on the side
and add all the snacs . and also add your snacks, they’ll probably fit too
And an entire Dreamcast
And it uses a custom main that doesn’t load a game on the first try, just to prove it’s real hardware
or when he acted like he was struggling to get a cart to line up and was painful to watch
You have to hold the controller up or the game doesn’t load
That "CNC" Company is an eavestrough company, can only bend metal in a few specific shapes.
Yeah, got my confirmation email 90 seconds after orders opened and mine's still unfulfilled 15 days later 😦
Either they're not shipping them in the same order they were purchased or there were several thousand people ahead of me in that first minute or so 😄
#1235838987520966686 message
From Taki's discord
It also wasn't shipping based on who ordered first either. (Whilst I did order mine within the first 5 mins of the drop. There were other people with lower order numbers than me and I still received mine before them)
yeah I dunno what's going on, I thought they were shipping as they were ordered. I literally got on and ordered as soon as it was possible to do so
if yours was within the first 5 minutes then I assume my order number is lower than yours as I got the confirmation email 97 seconds after orders opened
just got an email saying it's shipped lol
Nice! I ordered within the first 5 minutes too, but mine shipped last Friday. Not received it yet though, but it’s fine, I wasn’t expecting it to be super fast anyway. Currently been at “Departure from original airport” for a couple of days.
Awesome, more MiSTer Pi friends!
Before you can be accepted into the fold, we need to know your opinions on the US Saturn Library and fan translation ownership
it's important.
Thanks for the welcome! I haven’t played any Saturn games properly before (shameful I know), but the Saturn is very high on my “Explore Library & Play Best Games” list once I’ve got the Mister Pi in my hands…
Panzer Dragoon series, Guardian Heroes, Radiant Silvergun & Burning Rangers are the games I want to start with
Sorry if this was asked before, but what is the SNAC Level Shifter by Blue212 that was included in batch 2? I received my "turbo pack" last week and it has a snac adapter but is the level shifter a separate component that I should have received as well?
Id highly recommend the classic Saturn game called....
Resident Evil 1. I hope you like tank control
My mega pack came with the SNES snac adapter and that level shifter adapter.
2 separate pieces
=/
Email Retroremake - they will make it right
I will double check and make sure I don't have it and then I will
Just to confirm you didn’t get it, left to right is the level shifter and snac
I'm just bummed someone's going to have to ship that small thing to me
Yeah I don't have that piece on the left
at least, I don't think. I will double check
but it does not look familiar
Mine was loose in the box with the snac adapter
Same if I remember correctly
Alright, just checked both the "turbo pack" box and the bigger box it came in and no level shifter. I also do not remember seeing that piece ~at all~ and so I'm pretty comfortable saying it didn't come with mine. guess I'll send an email. I'm assuming it's a "required" piece to use but I'll be honest I don't really know what it does
It converts 5v signals to 3.3v for the GPIO on FPGA board
I dunno if you all are paying attention to #mister-hardware but @zinc spoke cooked up some really nice cases for the SNES Snac and Level Shifter adapters for batch 2 owners.
https://www.printables.com/model/1096495-mister-pi-snes-snac-level-shifter-enclosure
https://www.printables.com/model/1097212-mister-pi-snac-snes-case
that sounds pretty required then I guess
They are using the stock PCB designs which is good I need a shifter case
Great game and I don’t mind tank controls. I played it many years ago on PS1. I should replay it - is the Saturn version much different?
@inner walrus For context: they are like a 4 person company who is taking the time to make sure their 2000+ shipments are done correctly. They had a day where they recalled all shipments done that day because some of the orders were incomplete and wanted to spot check them. I understand that that is easy to say as I'm not waiting on an order, but I promise hey are working as fast as they can. Taki has said as much
on the other hand it is entirely reasonable for people who paid quite a bit more for 'faster shipping' to ask why their order hasn't even shipped out yet when people who paid for the cheap+slow option already have theirs
Sure, but they didn't pay for it ship out faster, only for it to arrive faster once it shipped
It feels like you're probably missing something here
Can you elaborate?
I think they handed them all off in like 4 days right? So it’s on the carrier at this point no?
Nah, they were hoping to get through the same amount of orders as batch 1 in 4 or 5 days, but things seem to have slowed significantly (on the 26th they had to recall all of the orders done that day, for instance)
Like, I totally get it. Folks are excited to get their hands on their new mister (and quickly if they paid for the faster shipping). And we also live in an end stage capitalism hellscape, so the default stance is "this company is trying to fuck me". So when the ask is to ignore both of those things, you want to be like "why don't you run outside and play hide and go fuck yourself instead?".
Taki has shown that he wants to do right by folks (both their customers and the community at large), and while I'm not saying Taki deserves your empathy, I think they may be worthy of it
Ah guess I wasn’t paying close attention. Just read some tweet about them having shipped faster than last time or something and assumed they were done
Uh you forgot about the weeks of required memtest and n64 core testing
We require everyone to relive those days
Oh fuck, you'll appreciate this: Someone last night was having trouble getting games to load and I was troubleshooting with them for a bit. they came back this morning and were like "I think it's my ram. I ran memtest and got nothing but errors"
Hey at least they didn’t have to play RE2
Mine got marked as shipped this morning, looking forward to receiving it and getting set up for my first misterfpga experience
I was using a stick for years that I tested just by chance recently that threw up errors even though there was no problem in running anything. Still had a decent sustainable frequency too
Yeah, this one was throwing errors and the mister didn't show the icon for the SD ram being installed.
which, btw, did you all know that's wht this icon was? I had no idea
yep and if you don't have 128mb the icon doesn't fill up all the way
sad little icon
My jealousy is incredible right now
It has a unique battle mode, and extra boss at the end of the story
Ah cool, will check it out when I can. I watched a comparison video on YouTube and it seems the Saturn version has slightly better graphics in some areas too.
This initiation process is starting to sound a bit scary, maybe I should just send it back (when I get it) and forget the whole thing… 😉
To be fair you might have liked the N64 core testing. One of the games that was causing/having/showing the issue was Resident Evil 2 on the N64
Yeah, that sounds more fun, though repeating the same parts again and again would’ve been tedious, which I’d guess the testing involved a fair amount.
Nice! Is there any left or you downloaded it all?
ALL OF IT
Damn I only wanted a small byte
just picked up a MiSTer A/V Pro v9.2 (retroremake) and am noticing lots of clicks/pops in certain cores, gba/segacd, and the psx core actually just sounds awful, is this "normal"?
I'm using it with an authentic DE-10 nano, audio is going through a Yamaha stereo amp and some older hi-fi speakers
It’s a bug with the 9.2 board, unfortunately 😦
the stock 9.2 board I should say
I wonder what needs to happen for it to be reported. I remember folks with non-retro remake 9.2 boards also having issues. https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Hardware_MiSTer/issues
yeah, I just found a thread a while back with some discussion around it
strange because it's not subtle in the psx core, it sounds quite horrible
well it’s weird because it isn’t the same for everyone
like PSX and GBA are fine for me
but certain mega cd games are real bad
oh yeah? interesting
gba is mostly fine, tiny little pops and crackles, but psx sounds totally blown out (at least Alundra did, I didn't dare test anything else)
many cores sound perfect though, pc engine, genesis, snes, neogeo
did you try the PSX shifted core that someone posted a while back? folks having issues with the sound reported that core fixed it
oh, I only just got this installed, so I've tested very little yet, but I'll give that a try
that core apparently fixed PSX for some folks
it’s based off the latest release iirc
"shifted" core sounds perfect, thank you!
So it’s a ram problem?
Wonder if the batch 2 need the shifted versions to resolve these issues or not
Robert is much smarter than I, so forgive me while a paraphrase him. He mentioned that this core wasn’t worth releasing because nothing had changed. If audio was fine out of the HDMI and toslink, then it’s likely a framework issue. I wonder if the shifted core working is more a byproduct of the seed (or whatever the build variable is - I won’t pretend to understand any of this) than it is the shift
I can corroborate, Robert is much smarter than him,
hey wait
in other news https://www.sotwe.com/tweet/1864658696565084262
Don’t feel bad, there’s a solid chance that Robert is smarter than basically everyone on here
Some of those other devs are smart cookies too though, could be tight
Can confirm. Also, Robert is smarter than Robby. You can tell because Robert has more letters in his name, making him smarter.
Robert earned every letter legitimately. Robby doesn’t own a cowboy hat and lives in texas, so there may be some stolen valor there
I have a batch 2 turbo kit here, what should I be looking for? I’ve only been using hdmi audio so far
Your analog audio is going to suck in either the PSX, GBA, or MegaCD cores (or all of them if you’re real lucky)
Jesusfish will know
Surely you aren’t talking about Shadow of the Beast 2
Yeah try that @sharp pulsar . And I’m sorry
Where are my SOTB heads at?
I prefer the Amiga original
Any particular psx game or all of em?
Can confirm I’m getting lots of pops and degraded audio quality with sonic cd
Look at all the spikes 😵
I don’t have a ton of psx games but bushido blade and Tony hawk 2 seem fine
The Amiga version was a great tech demo but I found the most playable version to be the PC Engine CD.
The C64 version was a brave attempt too
Crazy that batch 3 preorder is almost sold out…
oh yeah, SOTB always sucked in the gameplay department
it makes up for it in the voice acting.....................
Glad I didn’t have to install this game to test, it sounds uh, great 😊
So yeah, I dunno what the move is from here. It's pretty clear that there is something up with the 9.2 board. But I dunno what information is needed to pass that along to Sorg
I read that for batch 2 of the mpi, the sdram modules were tested with the specific units they shipped with, so that could be why I’m not having audio issues with psx
I don't think it's a ram issue. I think it's a 9.2 io board issue since it also happens to folks with non-retroremake 9.2 boards based on the stock design
It seems fine now 👻
yeah, I just needed some bits (and pieces)
People are getting them
Takes over two weeks to ship something that was in stock, says he’s at risk of being scammed by those who are still waiting
Do you really think that’s the answer?
Two weeks is nothing in this hobby
He clearly thinks the answer is insulting people who are supporting him
Citation needed
I saw the tweet. I don’t see the insult
He then marked the post as spam
Saying people who paid for their stuff are fraud risks isn’t an insult?
Your mind must be very tired from all the gymnastics justifying this
I once waited 6 months for a scart switch. Getting some arcade parts takes like a year or more of searching. I paid for Naomi holo stickers in June I haven’t gotten. Gotta be patient these retro shops are small ops
The payment processor likely flagged some of the transactions as fraud risks. This is not unusual when you sell a lot of something. Some percentage are going to be flagged
He probably waited to deal with those last because it requires investigation, and he could ship out the other 2xxx shipments right away.
That’s not saying the transactions are frauds, or that he believes they are frauds, but they likely have to be manually approved before they can be processed
Did your credit card get charged @inner walrus ?
And you won’t miss out on any games with an extra week because they aren’t making them anymore 😉
Yes
No true! That Palmer luckey tetris game got dumped
Oh fine also all the homebrew I never play
And those dumb games for neogeo and such they released with drm
Turds
Then you likely weren’t flagged as a fraud. It could just be bad luck, and that does suck, I empathize with that. But I don’t think he was insulting anyone. It was more of an fyi.
But seriously, if it’s bugging you, cancel the order and grab a qmtech stack from Ali. I’m not trying to be a dick when I say that. I mean it. Free yourself. It’s not worth it. There are other options
Project neon? I hope they sell the rom for it. It looks fucking sick and makes me regret not buying an AES when they were cheap
I haven’t bought any of his stuff, only said something because facts are he’s delivered product to people so he’s def not a fraud
Free yourself
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLq9I79
Yeah does look cool. In reality though I probably wouldn’t spend $350 or whatever on homebrew
Yeah, that’s a hard pill to swallow. But fucking @gritty herald posted a video of the cart in his MVS conversion and the fomo hit hard
Yeah I have an MVS but $550AU, eh I’ve got other stuff to play, maybe there will be a deal some day
Xenocrisis had drm not actually sure in this one
I had an mvs cab 10 years ago. But I gave it to a buddy because (at the time) I didn’t have room for it and I didn’t realize you could convert the board
Oh yeah I just have a 1 slot and jamma multiuse cabinets, no dedicated neo cab or anything
They’re big
Well some of them
Yeah, this was a 4 slot. I only remember it having kof99 (the other slots were full but I only played kof- I inherited it from a roommate who just left it here after they moved out)
Because it was too big!
It was…………..but now I want it back :/
Yeah neogeo has a pretty solid ratio of good games to library size
I only have like 7 carts for it but then I got into mister and that was the end of that
Now I have all the carts. Thanks Mister!
Yeah, that’s it. I wanted a neo geo. Now I have one
Calling Project Neon just homebrew is a bit dismissive
What are you on?
The payment provider flags transactions as fraud risk. They need to be manually verified one-by-one
I honestly have no idea wtf you are talking about.
This did not happen.
Then I must be lucky as my order went through fine.
And it arrived around 8-9 days after I ordered.
I think you are reaching with this comment. If you class that as an insult, it's hilarious.
Do you feel insulted whenever your bank requires you to approve a payment due to fraud risk?
Unfortunately you just have got to be patient. In the absolute worst case, you can always contact your credit card company for help with the payment. (If it was me waiting, if my order doesnt have any updates after 4 weeks, that's when I'd contact my bank/credit card company)
The way I look at it. People have waited years for a cheaper DE10-Nano. I reckon they can wait a couple of weeks for there order to be shipped out. ( As I said before, id have waited a month for delivery/updates on my order)
@inner walrus I think you just misunderstood what Taki said about fraud risk. That shopping platform’s payment processor sometimes flags genuine transactions as fraudulent. I’m pretty sure it’s not your case, but for those Taki needs to verify the payment information manually.
And that takes time, hence the delays
I’m also with a batch 2 order unfulfilled and I’m 100% not a fraud! 😌
Let’s chill out and wait for our shipments
Taki delivers!
Yeah, I do hope you both get yours soon. I bet it's extremely annoying as your seeing other people's with theirs now.
I run a web shop and the payment processor will automatically grade every transaction for fraud risk. Things like the shipping postal code not matching the billing address or using an IP address that’s geolocated far from the delivery address will flag transactions for further review
I also chose DHL because there’s a mail strike and wtf even is 4PX 🙂
I was positive surprised about 4px. Cheap and fast shipping via airfreight on batch 1. only a few days behind DHL, but half the price
Played Sega cd core for hours yesterday without seeing that sound popping issue again. Odd
I am going to spend approximately zero minutes worrying about it from here on out
Side note, I gotta grab a usb brick before my wife skins me for constantly stealing hers — what sort of amperage should I aim for? 3A?
Any USBC compliant brick will do. They must support 3A by standards.
I got my batch 2, btw, if anyone cares to know that these things are in fact happening. 😛
Batch 2 gang
Waiting for the wild blue case mister to appear
Not bad.
Dis mine.
Love this case but have to wait and see about a cutout for the mt32 lite
Yeah, I just started looking at Mt32 options and realized I wouldn't be able to do that one because of it. 😛
Unless there was like.... an extension or something.
Yea but if you go with an extension then at that point might as well go regular mt32
Side note, does anything support the Mt-32 pi lite? Or is it just hanging by the USB port?
Hangs by the port
I mean, unless you don't wanna pay for the full fat pi. 😛
But it's light
Yeeeeah.....
But I have a kid and a cat. 😛
I could just imagine something tweaking the pi
And the leverage just... CRACK
I feel like that case would tuck it under nicely
Oh, if the whole side was cut out for it?
But supposedly needs to have a redesign of the top/side/button holder
Yea
I have the lite on hand
Just waiting for my mister to come in lol
I mean.... I could try to modify the side if I had the dimensions maybe.
Mmm should have my caliper handy... Could do that
I know there's the uh
Gerber files up on GitHub sec
Hmm. I wonder if it covers up the USB ports.
From what I can tell no but I don't think big chonky adapters will fit
I guess the way the cutout would work it would just open up the whole side.
Yea I don't know how thin you'd be able to make the side off hand
I'd imagine PCB thick like the original ref cases would be too brittle
Then again I know nothing of 3d printing lol
The mt32 I use https://ultimatemister.com/product/mt32-pi-lite-white/ which apparently has a thicker back plate... I figure it probably will work if it's thin enough and if not taking off the back plate and using wafer head bolts should do the trick
There is ONE small issue... the post that the button supports screw into goes right into that corner.
Yea that's what he mentioned
He who?
That the top/side/button holder would have to be repositioned
Person who designed that case
#1303433438178840576 message
Yeah, that... would not be simple.
I'm just hoping the taki case will work for now
I mean, I'm sure it will.
I need to just buy a lite and model it, I just don't have a use for one 🙂
Nah I get it... It's kinda one of those niche devices lol
When I get cycles I need to redesign the button keeper piece to mount on the bottom of the top piece, so the buttons come off with the top. Then the side piece won't have that constraint
Work's got me tapped though, I work in education enterprise IT so we're prepping for winter break releases
Well... I'm looking at it and.... MAYBE it could work. MAYBE.
Yeah the Fusion files are there if anyone wants to do a mod 👍
Trying some stuff.
@untold kayak Looking at it in OnShape, I THINK it could fit with the hole just BARELY, but it'd be tight.
Technically the button keeper isn't even needed. I had plans to have a magnetic wood top that just pulled off, but didn't get around to it
You could just leave it out and do a custom side
Putting the top on might be more tricky but once it's on the buttons will be fine
The idea was a quickly removable top so you could air blast the dust
Doesn't help that I am just good enough at Fusion to get the results I want, but not good enough to go fully parametric and easily editable after the fact. 🙂
I mean.... I know that feel. 😛
Man.... never mind, it's just too tight for simple solution...
Unless I've got the distances wrong...
@tardy hornet Can you give me the distance between the end of the USB connector and the start of the Pi?
Yea sure... Gotta find my caliper when I get back home
Well wait I might have a metric ruler on hand lol
Not caliper accurate but could at least give some idea how it is with ultimatemisters version...
The more I look at this the more it seems like it's not going to work without a major redesign
11mm
Wait... from the pi to the near side of the USB connector?
Eyeballing it it seems like it's like... 3-4mm
Yeeah.... I've got the placement spot on. Bummer.
You can see the corner goes RIGHT through the mounting hole. And that's cutting it pretty close
Rip
I suppose an easy fix would be to just... shift the hole back a bit and modify the bracket accordingly.
Have to make that side a bit narrower, too.
It's poking through a bit. 😛
Oh... Oh boy does that account for the back plate thickness? Granted I can remove it and wafer head bolt it to make it thinner lol
I mean, I just have the pi in there for X/Y dimensions
Not too worried about the thickness, you can just compare the thickness to one of the other cases
Ah
But yeah, that's as close as I got.... Would be neat if it were set up right... But I still don't like the port being the only support.
Hmm technically since you put a ledge there for the finger to rest on essentially... I guess that makes it the support
Lol
And it wouldn't surprise me if we had to widen the radius of the cutout for the port, too
Wow though did not expect it to be that close to the bottom ports lol
But yea I guess they really are...
also I have no idea what that person is doing... Came from a reddit thread about the lite and the misterpi
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/9cba877853b696c4861798f2/w/0746f0f39b1fcdf30f5880a9/e/a192e2532b40b1cd6c54a38d?renderMode=0&uiState=675360792bcf0b280fa4307b - Anyway, that's what I did so far. You're welcome to monkey around with it to try to solve the hole placement problem.
Sign in to Onshape, the #1 fastest growing CAD system in the world with over 4 million users.
Based on that picture it looks like the board might actually need to go up a little.
Yea that's what got me worried about Takis case because I know it's not as tall and I might have to space out the top since it overhangs the side a bit
Curse my excitement and curiosity lol
Tfw you look up depth of a USB port and this is one of the first results
Please stop! Now I will have to get my third MiSTer Pi so I can shove it inside this! 😩
Do it
Todd cases house the majority of my Misters
they didn't factor in emotional weight
https://www.timeextension.com/news/2024/12/mister-pi-creator-taki-udon-is-turning-his-attention-to-the-ipod Taki, could you please focus on the MiSTer Pi? Thank you! 😌
Don't trust anything timeextension "reports"
So far they’ve been trustworthy
Look at their SuperSega coverage
Meh. Three line summaries of other people's reportage, or simple parotting of announcements.
i mean he has shown interest in doing ipod mods
as well as screen mods for ds and psp
That looks great. Dis mine (@lyric gull design)
Ah, the N64 case. Fun.
It’s the fun machine after all!
Batch 2 order finally shipped! 
Awesome thanks, time to reroute it to me!
Good afternoon all. Is a RTC board needed to use a i2c2oled screen, or can it somehow be wired to the IO board?
I see a I2C label next to one of the pins but I'm not sure where the rest would go...VCC, GND, SCL, and SDA.
you can wire it directly, hold up
That’s the I²C port I used for an NFC reader. The I/O board connection didn’t work for me
I have both the OLED and the NFC reader wired to this port, works like a charm
Perfect. Thank you all very much 🙂
I have like 4 of these little screen laying around not doing anything.
I've assembled my mister pi fpga and installed the firmware and now I am running the mister pi with the latest Offline stock release. However. I can't navigate the menus with the keyboard nor a gamepad.
I've booted the mister pi with multiple adapters giving at least 5volt 2ampere or more
Batch 4 wen
You may be plugging the controllers and keyboard into the power only usb. Which ports are you using?
Just saw megapack batch 3 is sold out 😔
I think that’s just the preorder
I think the plan is still to offer a batch 3….batch….with the soldered on ram
BGA ram? BGM? BFG?
I've connected the usb connector for the keyboard as shown on the picture here. I've tried the one on the bottom usb-board, but then the keyboard don't light up
Man, you should buy a lottery ticket because that’s the bridge usb port (it’s not active when the usb hub is plugged in).
Is the port below the other one you tried?
keyboard won't work with the the one marked usb-1 either
I hope so 🙏
Try one of the ones along the side. The two on the hdmi side are power only (just fyi)
If none of the ports are working, you may want to confirm that it’s seated properly
Nah, they are hot swappable
oki, then I think I should dissasemble and check the connector for sure
looks proper connected from what I can see. not possible to push further togeter
The header on the board is seated into the bottom of the fpga board too?
yes
do you have anything beside the keyboard to test? Curious if anything lights up when plugged in
By any chance, did you connect something to other usb ports (not the rear ones) while having this connection you just pictured?
no, but I can test with an xbox x controller that have a led.
Bad idea. Don’t do that
That usb port on the top shouldn’t really be used on setups with usb boards like yours
I see, so I was thinking of trying to connect it to the usb board on the bottom to see if something lights up
what are you using to power the mister pi? 5v3a?
yes
take the USB board off the bottom and then try the usb plug on that you were trying on the mister pi before
oki
Was about to suggest that
MiSTer Pi board has got alternating glowing lights on the top, right?
yes, with the usb hub disconnected I can control the menus with the xbox x game pad with the usb connector on the miser pi board
There's something wrong with your USB hub board then
so it seem
You triple checked the header connections at the bottom of the MiSTer Pi with it, right?
yes. I checkd if it was connected properly and yes it was
Did your kit came pre-assembled from Taki? Or you assembled it?
I assembled it myself it was not preassembled
Please contact Retro Remake customer service. You'll probably need to. RMA your USB hub board
I followed Takis instructions from his instruction video
I'll do that :) thanks for helping with the debugging <3
You're welcome! Good luck!
thanks <3
I would try putting it back together (one more time) just to see. I had an issue with my batch 1 stack where the toslink was fucked up. I pulled the whole thing apart, re-assembled it, and then it was fine
Good idea! hahaha
Some people also fixed audio cracklings by just re-seating the analog board haha
yeah, think I'll do that :) and if not I have to rma it to mr Taki :)
Yeah, only recommend it because they did QA everything that went out. That’s not to say that things didn’t get passed them, but this batch should have minimal defects
not accounting for what happens in shipping
that's true
Iirc one of my usb keyboards did not work with even the de10
It was probably a bad idea to ship the snac in the loose altogether with the USB board. Components might get knocked out during shipping and handling
yeah. i think taki’s package design is top notch, but things are just…loose in the boxes. All the boards are loose in their boxes. and then the snac adapters were loose in their big box…hopefully that gets better with time
In Taki we trust!
Turbo kit had the snac stuff wrapped in expanded paper but the kit itself loose in an internal box with enough room to rattle around. Everything was fine but yeah a little bit more expanded paper would not go astray in general
This is how this guy got his
my snacs were just loose in the big box
same
oh a wild blue case appears nice
im hoping they will be loose in mine.... the idea of snac adapters rattling ontop of bare pcbs worries me lol
wtf 😂
Anyone here that got the SNES Snac that came with the batch 2.
If you have the time, could you kindly test it for me please
I swore mine worked before, but I've just got to test it now and only the B button is working. (This is affecting other users too)
Ok my other SNES controller works with the snac + level shifter. It's a Pal Super Nintendo official controller.
My Japanese Super Famicom controller only allows me to press B. I do know the controller does work.
Didn't Nintendo add a sort of region protection to the original snes to prevent the use of out of country controllers? I seem to recall something about a diode
I have both US and JP controllers and I will be able to test it once my kit arrives
Oh interesting, I didn't know that. Well with my testing I can confirm:
Pal controller works fine
JP/Super Famicom Only B works.
@delicate hazel does your JP pad work without the level shifter board?
I haven't tested that as I'm not sure if anything would be damaged.
Wait, without the level shifter, is the controller being fed at 5v still?
In case it is, using it without the level shifter might damage the data pin
I have seen reports on Facebook (mister fpga group) that others who have had the same issue (B button only works). They used it without the level shifter and it works fine
I just don't feel comfortable testing my jp controller without the level shifter I'm afraid.
Don't do that!
This is from the SNES SNAC schematic
The controller is being fed by 5v. So D0 will output 5V back to the FPGA's IO without a level shifter
@analog dagger does that sound right?
Yeah, I won't. I do appreciate the warning.
And why doesn't SNES snac contain all the level shift circuitry, requiring a separate one? Isn't that dangerous?
there are differing designs. The original snacs all needed the level shifetr board. They were designed to be used with one. Then people began putting the shifters onto the Snac itself so now we have the 2 desgins
My toaster isn’t working so I’m plugging it into my dryers 240vac to see if that helps
Shifters on the snacs themselves should be the way to go. Not sure what was the use case of the separate design?
Because thats how it was in the original days
so people could buy one level shifter board and have many cheaper controller adaptors
But originally was the voltage provided by the user IO port 5v?
That doesn’t make sense
Its always been from the IO port
https://misterfpga.co.uk/product/mister-snac-adapter-usb/ Is the older style Shifter board
I remember the user io port had a 3.3v option?
The shifter board is really the snac adaptor. Not the controller adaptor board
The Userport outputs 5V but the GPIO lines run at 3.3v
A lot of controllers and add ons need 5V
Some sellers offer this but at a price. That's the benefit of open source designs
Some use a shifter board with HDMI ports and bliss cables too
Have a look at the port end where you plug in the controller, do any of the pins look thinner than others ?
The cheap 3rd party ports can have different thickness pins which can affect the connection. NES are usually the worst for it
I have seen this on cheap extension cables, yes
Bending the pins a bit with a screwdriver usually “fixes” it
Il have a look now
Both Snac adapter and level shifter look visually fine.
And both my SNES controller plugs look fine
I just got my MPi snes snac and I can’t get it to work at all. I have a PAL controller and I’m using a lvl shifter. I checked continuity between io board and snac board and it’s ok. I need to check lvl shifter next
Did you enable the snac in the core settings?
its broken for a few people
When you click the SNES core. Go into the settings, input and enable snac
It's going to be a strange one I reckon. Works fine with my Pal SNES controller. But my JP SNES controller, only the B button works.
First thing I did
SNAC is largely useless anyway for things other than Lightguns and obscure controllers
Ah, ok
much better off with a USB adaptor
Well it was bundled so I wanted to give it a go
I might check with oscilloscope the data lines later
yep but there seems to be an issue. Multiple people reporting it doesnt work
Maybe clk signal is busted
Yeah, I use my 8bitdo Ultimate 2C. With the 1000hz polling script, it's great.
I just kinda feel sorry slightly for Taki. If it's not one thing, it's another. But I get your point.
Interesting, I completely forget that there's a forum. Il create an account now and reply with my testing. Thanks for the link Tim 🙂
another problem is of course these are 20 year old devices often thrown intoa drawer and forgotten about
so not all actually work
I believe my Japanese controller works. As I got it a few years ago when I decided to collect imports
Well in my case it’s a confirmed working, as I still play on my actual snes
does it work via a Daemonbyte ?
if you can do basic soldering they are really easy to make
I don't know what a Daemonbyte is. I also can't solder (Hoping to try and learn at some point though)
Oh I see
the soldering is basically attach a few wires to an arduino
I made mine with a cut off extension cable
its usb to native controller
so really good for testing controllers and also a good way to use the controllers
Technically if you purchased a screw terminal arduino there is no soldering !
It could be either CLK or LAT, or both. My theory is that the controllers pull-up resistors on those lines aren’t playing well with the pull-ups from the level shifter board
Maybe the level shifter boards need a different resistor values for those lines for snes?
10k might be too much
That message board post I linked says the Taki adaptor works fine with another level shifter
Sounds like a pin issue from that if one controller works and another doesn't tbh
All of them use 10k pull-ups right?
no idea what the other manufacturers do
However, it seems a lot of people are having this issue though with the batch 2 level shifter/snac adapter. The controller only registers the B button. Plus they have reported the same controller to work on the original SNES console.
So im not sure what to make of it to be honest. Plus that it works on my pal controller, but someone else earlier mentioned they tried their pal controller and that didnt work. (But works on their SNES)
The original hardware has far better quality ports
The third party ones made in China cost pennies
Different snes controllers from different regions might use different pullup resistors inside the controller
That’s why
But it's the only option these days
Pull-up from the controller is pairing up with the 10k from the level shifter
Doubt it as the controllers are interchangable on original hardware
I have used PAL and Japanese controllers on SNAC before with no issues
Depending on the resistor used by the controller the total resistance value for the pull-up might get inadequate
They are not
At least in some revisions
I would say it's more cheap ports than anything else
My guess would be either pull up or cheap port
But leaning more and more towards the port
The shifter board is a collection of resistors too
And Taki is using the stock small board design for that
Might have been the reason, but someone earlier did mention their pal controller just not working with the level shifter/snac.
Yeah. Tried both of mine
Its not the end of the world for me, i just wanted that cheaper Mister PI. But id like to see what the issue is and what the fix could be.
Unfortunately for snes I don’t have any out of region controllers
On the other hand, i reckon theres quite a few people now trying the snac adapter without that level shifter.
Any way to try bypassing the port as a test? Jam some test leads in the controller?
I guess it would be feasible. I just don’t think I have it in me to bother :D.
I got the snac free from a friend who got mpi in latest batch. I got mine in b1 so I was curious
Fortunately he doesn’t need it anyway
Yeah I have zero need for snac but I’m curious now. I have the adapters but no controller
@penny a Timville 4daptor is a good solution for using original controllers over USB
Offers SNES, NES, MD/Atari and N64
Low latency around 0.74ms
Timville makes good stuff. I imported his stuff to the Uk
Ah, that's interesting. I might look at a dedicated controller just for the Mega drive/Master System/Mega CD and 32x. Just because of the 6 button layout.
@delicate hazel are you using the provided usb-c cable to power your mister pi?
Nope, I use my Steam Deck plug
I’ve got two 8bitdo m30 on the way to scratch my 6 button itch
I think I have an M30, but it uses the original controller plug
Ooh thank you
There are so many models! I ordered BT
Worst latency wireless but pretty good wired
Yeah, I got that one for my Mega SG.
Wonder if I can use it wired. Saves me buying another one or maybe the Mega Drive Snac Adapter
@delicate hazel seeing as it's Xmas and you are UK based
Drop me a DM with your address and I will pop a Timville 4daptor in the post for you
I have a couple of spares
got any spare Ferrari's ?
Hahah no sadly I cant 3D print those or order the parts from Ali
I can't accept a gift like that. Thank you for the offer, I do appreciate it but il be fine thank you.
My 8bitdo Ultimate 2c has every console covered bar Sega Mega drive etc. for that console, il just use my other 8bitdo controller that has 6 buttons.
Don't worry they don't cost much more than a few Quid to make
I enjoy making more than anything else 😁
I do appreciate the offer but I'm fine thank you 🙂
Ok no worries
@faint dune and @faint imp I've reattached the usb hub and still it don't work. So I will send a RMA request as you suggested :)
Also, @tardy hornet yes, the blue case appears super nice :)
Good luck!
thanks
Nice
Oooo does an Etsy purchase come with the files to print modifications? 😂
Now I want to print the top and buttons those colors 😵💫
Just what I need another case variation
It’s worth it.
Jag-goo-are
I just got to assembling the Taki frosted clear case, and after much fidgeting got it to line up perfectly. however I noticed in one corner the case is about 1mm raised because of contact to the main chip on the L board of the AV Pro. anybody else notice this? I am just leaving the top screws finger tight and assuming it is a design flaw unless anyone else knows of a solution
is it confirmed that all batch 3 Mister Pi boards will have soldered RAM? or will boards without RAM still be offered?
In my eyes nothing is confirmed yet. The actual listing for the only package is difficult to say. The other listings before seems normal ones without bga.
So I assume that batch3 seems to be a mix.
Hard to believe, cause the single board was long not sold out.
how can it be easy or hard to believe, if I didn't explain the reason why I couldn't buy it? 🙂
I know they were available for some days, but I was unemployed at that moment and I wanted to wait to get some new job before making the purchase, just in case
I actually asked taki yesterday
Thanks!
That was my thought, cause only the actual listing mentioned BGA ram.
Make sense to wait, that’s not the question. The single boards popped up many times, also after first sold outs. Hope you find what you want in batch3 or batch4.
I believe the board without ram will also be produced in less quantities, cause he will need some for RMA reasons too.
Batch 4 wen
Ha
Damn typo 
Hard to say, cause we don’t know if batch3 is a pure preorder, or some units pop up regular in the shop.
Finally been able to put some time into my mister pi now. Had to take a break from it and finish stalker 2 (gamepass was running out)
Taki should just make a million MiSTer Pis
Seems that sales will slow down now with every new batch.
I was so surprised when batch 2 dropped. It was still in stock hours later.
I was slightly concerned due to that non-main LTT video. I thought that would bring in more buyers
I also thought it would sell faster, but, the hole numbers are crazy. Taki is in the 5k range now… 😁
I believe there will be two SKUs with or without built on SDram
It will be interesting if the second GPIO header is removed from the board with built on SDram as it will prevent possible confusion and is pointless to add it
We will see, the first pictures show all headers, iirc.
Yeah, this one still has all the headers
The question is also, if the build in ram version is the only board been produced after batch 3. I assume that the cost savings are not only with QA...
dunno, but I'm not paying the same price for a version with a soldered, hard to service part if I can get the version with the modular, easy to replace part in case I have a problem 🤷♂️
I think it's all going to be soldered on at some point as this is likely the board in the portable
I am sure that the portable will get its own pcb. But i think also that the advantage also in handling speaks for the ram version
The turbo pack preorder (I believe) is the standard board
The actual new listing seems with bga ram. But that seems new, as before there was no BGA Ram in the description.
oh really?
Yes
BGA are the new chips
But you could solder those also on a module.
But make more sense on the PCB, cause much less space is needed.
kind of wild that both the AV board and RAM are sold out
True, both parts was never sold out before.
hopefully he still intends to stock them as they were great values
I am sure that he will, cause make sense as long as he produce the Mister Pi board itself.
Ram is also needed as a second module, so there is still a need if the Board revision 1.6 is there.
Curios was, that with batch2 the single board was the last item to be sold out. First batch the single board was sold out first.
Could be, that version 1.6 of the pcb still has the normal connector. So he could decide if the bga ram is solderd or not.
omg a pcb nfc card, that's fancy
Can you tag me and let me know if you get yours to work? I can't get mine to work in game nor in the menus. Can navigate around but cant do any actions
Is this your first time using the mister? You need to bind the controller inputs which (unfortunately) likely means you need to hook up a keyboard to do
I don't think there is a good way to do it without a keyboard
Yeah got it setup this weekend. I used my keyboard to go into the core to set the button config in there but is there another place I should be doing it?
