Cr-10 s4 whats causing these skipping

[rapid nimbus]

Prints 200 first layer 190 rest at 30-40mm/s speeds filament has been in dryer at 50c since opened nonstop drying.

I have done luke’s hotend fix and no clogging.

If you want to see any other settings retraction etc let me know I’ll send

[steep sand]

190 is very cold

Try 200

[rapid nimbus]

Trying again at 205 but seems like it still happening a bit

[steep sand]

okay did you check the hotend? like removing the silicone sock and see if its leaking?

[rapid nimbus]

I had the sock removed today for cleaning but not while printing there wasn't anything on it

My retraction is 3mm 45mm/s if that could cause an issue maybe?

[steep sand]

depends

do you have the stock hotend?

if the ptfe tube might be degraded @rapid nimbus

[rapid nimbus]

Yep stock ptfe tube inside the hotend? I've only been printing pla for around a month shouldn't be degraded that fast?

[steep sand]

There are many ways it could fail

Bad pushfit

No clip at the extruder and hotend push fit

Not cut flat to sit flush against the nozzle

Degraded

Not correctly inserter

One time leak when heating above 200c because crealty is to stupid for since i know them to correctly hottighten their hotends to their printer specs

Incorrect filament path due too short or to longtube

But did you check your extruder and the spool not that there is a knot comming

[rapid nimbus]

There's no knots on the spool I have checked that but for the extruder not yet I received an all metal hotend today but I need to get that part to print so I have new hotend parts for it instead of the old warped and broken ones currently

[steep sand]

Great

Just 2 things in too look for. Hottighten it to the max temp your printer can and reduce the retraction distance down to 1 ph and delete all old gcode from the sd not that you print one with false settings and get a clog

[rapid nimbus]

I print from octoprint I’ll delete the old files and do a new one for retraction 1mm?

For the printer max temp its 260 i got petg cf to test on it should i use it on max or wait until the issue is solved.

[steep sand]

If you change the hotend

The retraction is set in you slicer unless you have firmware retraction

[rapid nimbus]

I do I’ve changed it to 3mm at 45mm/s

Previously 4mm at 50mm/s But I haven’t done a retraction test

At 2mm it was oozing still

[steep sand]

3 mm is the max distance for all metal before you risk a heatbreak/ coldend clog

[rapid nimbus]

If the part printed good enough I’ll have it installed in the morning

I’ve done luke hatfield hotend fix should i do it again?

[rapid nimbus]

Back in 2020 everyone told me to do it on stock hotend though I wasn’t sure if it had fixed anything

[steep sand]

Luke Hatfield? The print a tiny plastic disc one?

Also a mod wont fix thermal expansion

[rapid nimbus]

Yes that one

[steep sand]

Yeah doesnt do shhiiieeeeeeettt for this issue

[rapid nimbus]

In general is it useful at anything’s or should i just shove a whole tube inside of the spacer thing?

Part should be done in a couple hours will install in the morning if it’s all good

[steep sand]

Its okay

It eliminates the one possible cause moving tube due bad pushfits

[rapid nimbus]

Ah will do it again then just incase no harm any way

Would a belt/axis issue cause these skipping too?

I’ve switched y axis to linear rails and changed the belt but for the x haven’t done anything yet will also be going linear rails soon

[steep sand]

Not really

Only if they are damaged loose extremly overtighted or somehow rundiagonal

My guess is you hit infill

[rapid nimbus]

As in my nozzle is hitting the infill?

[steep sand]

Yes. Happens in the slicer pretty normal

[rapid nimbus]

Im sorry im just a bit confused currently for these gaps what can i try to reduce or possibly get rid of them

[rapid nimbus]

Ongoing dd mount print

One infront is supports that’s fine but on the right is the actual print

[ebon egret]

Is it Bowden feed or direct drive? I don't think the extrusion looks continuous

Or is it fixed as no posts since new years eve?

[rapid nimbus]

Sorry for the late response i took the hotend apart today seems like the capricorn tube is a bit deteriorated and gooey from the outside but the inside looked good and the following jam coupler which i suspected after it wasn’t extruding anymore.

Its on the coupler as i have luke hatfields hotend fix with a printed spacer in the hotend though that seems perfectly fine i’d have expected it to fuse with the clog but it just stayed ontop.

[rapid nimbus]

Even after a full hotend redo nothing changed sadly appreciate any suggestions

[ebon egret]

It is possible to make so many small tweaks that it causes bigger problems like this.
I'd go back to basics, check the extruder isn't damaged or clogged, then recheck steps....
Then....

[rapid nimbus]

I’ve taken the extruder apart to clean it now but haven’t noticed anything i kindof suspected the ptfe from the heat but printing on this previously haven’t had an issue before

Even after replacing the capricorn inside the hotend still occured after initial print

Though I’m using a pancake stepper as my original big one died but i don’t remember if I had an issue before or after the replacement and even then i can see it smoothly extruding no skipping sounds or struggling visible

Could the filament itself be an issue for this?

[ebon egret]

Damp filament can cause issues, have you tried drying it or a different roll

[rapid nimbus]

It has been in the dryer since it was opened

Space pi dryer on 50c nonstop for the last month

Haven’t tried a different roll as thats the only new (sealed) pla I currently have

Others are all 5 year old been opened sadly

I’ve got petg cf and abs but don’t want to print these until i get this resolved

[ebon egret]

Deffo not damp then

Have you checked the esteps by marking it 120mm before it goes in to the extruder, asking to extruder 100mm and them measuring what's left, obviously should be 20mm..

[rapid nimbus]

Yes i redid the esteps after i put everything back together

I do have it printing now but doesn’t look like anything changed still towards the start though

At 210c

[ebon egret]

Do you use Marlin or klipper?

[rapid nimbus]

This is an 18 hour print that finished in the morning

Haven’t changed the firmware since 2020 its on marlin 2

I have gotten very nice prints out of it before I wouldn’t think it’s firmware related

Swirched y axis to 2 linear rails and 4 carriages trying to get the other parts done good and will be switching x very soon too

[ebon egret]

Ok, are the z rails / lead screws/wheels smooth if you move them but hand..

[rapid nimbus]

I can’t move them right now but I’d guess when i fixed my couplers didn’t feel any skipping pulling the z up by hand

was a bit tough but i think That’s normal

[ebon egret]

Couplers?

[rapid nimbus]

It was close to the motor i gave it space between the gap of the rod and shaft

Thought was the issue but didn’t really fix it

[ebon egret]

Those rubber wheel bearings if old or too tight - they can get flat spots

Ok, the couplers shouldn't make a difference as log as its not catching anywhere.

[rapid nimbus]

I have never touched them i guess i should replace them

[ebon egret]

If on the Z, it can cause visual artifacts horizontally

[rapid nimbus]

Damnit it halted

[ebon egret]

Moving the rails without power and disconnected cable from the motors will give you a steer if there are flat spots.

Don't move when connected.

It can fry your board.

[rapid nimbus]

To be honest feels normal to me

I’ll order wheels and replace them anyway

Might also go straight for linear rail’s instead

[ebon egret]

Probably need a kit for that as there is than just the rails needed, also if you do, you'll need Isoprpyl alcohol to clean them along with NLGI2 grease to prep them 😉

[steep sand]

#1454842401959973036 message sooo i was right?

[rapid nimbus]

Yep around 20$ on aliexpress got a spare 600mm rail can cut to size and 3 other carriages hopefully all linear rails will help

[rapid nimbus]

Actually you are as far as i think but i did replace the the capricorn inside and still experienced the same first print is that normal degradation span from the first print?

Im in process in modifying bullseye mounts to fit e3d v6 and linear rail mount for the x hopefully once everything is good I’ll have it installed though it needs a cartridge thermistor so going from the glass bead ntc 3950 to b3950 I’m hoping it will work without the hassle of a full firmware change

[rapid nimbus]

Hey currently halfway with x z linear rail’s installation when it’s done should I run any tests apart from esteps switched to a v6 hotend too so pid tuning too

[steep sand]

Pressure advance maybe

[rapid nimbus]

Trying to print but it’s not looking good

[ebon egret]

That is an extrusion problem, maybe a bit on z height issue dut deffo extrusion, you have good line and dotty under-extrusion

[ebon egret]

Hi, can you explain how you do the E-steps check?

[rapid nimbus]

I left work would have provided pics but I’ll try to explain it as good as i can

From the top of the direct drive where the ptfe slides in i put a ruler and try to keep the filament straight mark both 100mm and 120mm then extrude 100mm see id it stops at the same place of direct drive hole if not i measure whats left and put it in th3d calculator online with my current esteps

thats how i always do it should be correct no?

Marked red line is where the ruler sits to start measuring

Ontop of the black locking mechanism

My direct drive mount isn’t too structurally stable so did some edits as my first one broke and having to print the new one urgently as I don’t have more rhan 2 extra parts 😅

But its not wobbling or anything should be good for a couple prints

[ebon egret]

Ok, so when you extrude 100mm, is the remainder actually 20mm?

It looks more mechanical than maybe something to do with your slicer settings

[rapid nimbus]

Wel fuck

[rapid nimbus]

Per my measurement I’d say yes

Would the v6 need other settings?

I peinted on the same settings as my mk8

I can recheck Saturday and let u know about esteps but if mechanical Im not sure what to do

[ebon egret]

YOu have changed from a MK8 t a V6?

Does it have the same type of Thermistor and have you re-done the PID? if so

[rapid nimbus]

Yes

I changed to a metal cartridge and pid tuned its stable

Went from 3950 glass to also B3950 cartridge and pid tuned 10 cycles 240c temp stayed stable 210c

No more melting tube inside and looks to not ooze as much as the mk8 did

[ebon egret]

@steep sand , any ideas here, extrusion is calculated, new hotend but same spec thermistor and PID re-done. This image to me looks like a mechanical/extrusion problem...

[rapid nimbus]

Im using a pancake stepper if that changes anything

But been using since the mk8 not new

[steep sand]

Esteps done?

[ebon egret]

Says yes..

[ebon egret]

Actually still looks like a blockage

[ebon egret]

Did you alter any ampere settings for the stepper or does it match the old stepper?

[rapid nimbus]

Didn’t change anything

It did print no issues with the mk8 should still be good?

[steep sand]

have you ever cleaned the heatsink and fan blades? maybe you collected dust

[rapid nimbus]

installed everything Thursday all were cleaned with air compressor

I have checked esteps again all good and started another print now as I wasn’t there the last 2 days I’ll let you know in a few hours but so far nothing bad

Will have to wait until it geys higher

[steep sand]

air compressor is a great way to kill your fan

it spins up the fan motor too much so it turns into a generator

frying it self

[rapid nimbus]

Aware of that i hold my fans when i clean

It doesn’t spin it dust just blows out

[ebon egret]

It's looking better so far, what's it like an hour in

[rapid nimbus]

Well it is printing but not the best quality Im guessing need to see it complete as most of it now is supports

[rapid nimbus]

Well fuck

This was my only spare too

[rapid nimbus]

Resorted to a glue gun stick

Seems stable enough

[ebon egret]

Is that held in place by that tiny green strip nr the rail?

If so we might just have found why your extrusion is off

@rapid nimbus where are you from

Is that a clone bmg on top of a V6?

[rapid nimbus]

Well yeah 😅 did not think of the mount structure integrity much while being edited the new edit I’ve made it possible to screw ontop of the carriage along with the hotend mount

[rapid nimbus]

Living in saudi arabia

Yeah Bmg clone off trianglelab aliexpress

3d printers are not common much here aliexpress is my go to and alot cheaper than having to buy off amazon or importing

For now I’ve hot glued the bmg/motor without the mount ontop of the hotend holding well attempting another print

[steep sand]

Surprised it held so long

[rapid nimbus]

It’s my fault for not thinking it through all I wanted was to make it fit with the direct drive

I hope I’ll be able to print the new one tomorrow no luck today

Still trying to figure out Z offset it doesn’t seem to work like before for some reason currently

[rapid nimbus]

2 days later it seems to be printing again do far holding good with the hot glue

Will send pictures if it manages to complete without falling apart again

[rapid nimbus]

So far so good except that gap worrying me

[rapid nimbus]

Yay……

Almost done too unfortunately

I’ll have to cad it tomorrow and laser cut it aluminum should be light enough atleast a temporary solution if not permanent

[rapid nimbus]

Unfortunately my boss aka my father is rushing me to print abs so i think tomorrow i will have to start with petg for parts after the aluminum mount is done.

Is a blanket good enough for abs?

[ebon egret]

Some people use a cardboard box over the printer, but you are looking for a minimum temp of 40'c chamber for ABS to not only print but to be strong.
I'm not the print quality is ready yet though.

Pop a picture up of your latest print..

For info when you do get to printing ABS, don't go too fast and slow those cooling fans right down, if you cool ABS too fast it won't be very strong.

[rapid nimbus]

Im planning to have the fans off and just have a ventilation fan to get the fumes outside the room

Printer is currently apart in process of installing ac silicon bed as stock wont go above 75c and drawing the extruder mount to cut in aluminum I’ll print the petg cf i got first for the hotend mount as pla would surely melt with abs printing

Will send the printed part when everything is running again I’ll always seitch back to the stock extruder instead of the pancake its getting way too hot the hot glue softened and starting to feel like it might be the one causing the gaps

[rapid nimbus]

I dont assume i can change my printer on marlin to go up to 300c 260 only currently without a whole firmware change hassle?

[ebon egret]

I print ABS well at 42 chamber, 245 hotend and 95-100 bed this bit is filament dependant.

[rapid nimbus]

I ordered a creality chamber heater and planning to just make acrylic casing just throw it on top of the printer at-least temporarily while its printing. Doing cable extensions now to keep control box/ssr and pi out of the enclosure i think it could reach 50-60c.

As for filament i got sunlu abs in grey states 250-260c on the box

80-120 bed

Once parts are all done in abs + smoothing will be pvd coating them atleast attempting should make it a bit more resistant and look nicer

[ebon egret]

I just bought 4 rolls of Sunlu ABS not tried it yet...

[rapid nimbus]

Haha if i get to try it before you will let you know though i’d blame my calibration skills more

[rapid nimbus]

Unrelated if someone has a good solid state relay/ssr brand would appreciate as I’m unsure of good companies for it only got off aliexpress which I’m sure is going to end terribly quickly 😅

[ebon egret]

Omron are known to be good, but to be fair on a convert I got a cheapo from Ali, no issues so far, just calibrate the ampage correctly.

Dont forget the bracket -

[rapid nimbus]

I have seen them on ali too wasn’t sure if they are genuine omron or just knockoffs too i have a fotek one currently seems common there.

As for ampage calibration i dont see any thing to adjust on my ssr possibly just unsure how will ask electrician coworker helping me with it currently.

And the rail what is that for? I was planning modeling and printing a case for it if the rail is just to hold it?

Edit: planning to put a spare 4010 fan I have with a heatsink on it inside rhe case

[ebon egret]

Its not an Omron but a cheap version which works.

If you have a metal rail get the bracket, dont print one as they get hot, if it comes loose it could cause issues as it's passing mains electricity - safety first, especially for just a few quid

The bracket and a fan for the Electronics is a good idea

[rapid nimbus]

Ah not sure i hve a place to mount it like that unless the printer extrusion is fine desk its on is a bit tight after the case is done I’ll have to try keep everything electric on the outside and just the printer inside

I was planning initially a case where its all vented and just the screw areas touching the plastic with a heatsink in the bottom and a 4010 fan above it giving air in would be printed in petg cf initially and abs in future

Saying quid made me miss the uk lived there 3 1/2 years left last july after I graduated hope to go back for masters soon

[ebon egret]

Hurry and come back before these idiots in power ruin it completely

[rapid nimbus]

They must have missed me being there 😅 hope to return within a year lived in north wales but would like a bigger city next

Finished the bed today same 410x410 3mm aluminum

Will test it tomorrow with ssr and pid tune got a small heatsink for it atleast temporarily

Also done with this hope it’s stable enough

[steep sand]

[ebon egret]

Hmmm, North Wales University.... sounds like Bangor 🙂

If you had said West Wales I would have said Aberystwyth

[steep sand]

I just hope thermal expansion of the part wont affect the offset

[rapid nimbus]

Yep precisely bangor 😆 small city but it’s nice and quiet especially on Sunday’s always had empty streets like a ghost town

[rapid nimbus]

Ah haven’t thought of that might cause an issue after it gets enclosed then

I’ll have to test and see this one extruder didn’t end up precisely on-top of the hotend so adjusting the offset and attempting another one in the morning

I can go for steel/stainless steel but didn’t want it it to be too heavy on the hotend so went with 1.5mm aluminum

[rapid nimbus]

Extruder mount is a bit crooked but it fits will that be a big issue

Not from the weight bending it exactly is a bit hard as it’s a small part with multiple places to bend

Its laser cut flat then bent with a machine not exactly sure what’s it’s called in english

[steep sand]

Its pretty normal. My guess would be they just bend it to position and not the couple degrees over it to make it stay in place

Or it was bend at a low room temp

[rapid nimbus]

It was done at around 20c but part is quite small to be bent perfectly they did as best as possible and finished by a hammer attempting to make it perfect 90

Similar machine

I did install the bed fully now tried to pid tune but i guess young me did not turn on bed pid before flashing marlin so cannot do that

Did a 40c test worked but now tried 100c and uh its not heating the ssr seem to be activated unsure what is going on

😅 plug was off feel a bit dumb

[steep sand]

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html marlin should

[rapid nimbus]

I got pid autotune failed bad extruder number but my hotend isnt plugged in still apart i dont rhink its needed to be for the bed?

Yeah got the command from here too

I’ll try again around 15 minutes outting the hotend together now

Thiugh assuming the v6 nozzle shouldn’t screw all the way in and touch the heatblock as the old one came like that?

[steep sand]

Creality clasaic

They cant assemble a hotend 😄

https://youtu.be/OzRAVkXjw3I

[rapid nimbus]

Thank you everything is ready now but facing a problem

Homes fine but when abl goes to first corner and goes down probe barely touches the bed to trigger but doesn’t go enough to trigger

Then goes probing failed on octoprint

Not sure what is going on

[rapid nimbus]

Trying to figure this out

Tried to adjust my probe close to the bed but still same

[steep sand]

There should be a screw ontop of the probe that allows you to adjust sensitivity

[rapid nimbus]

Oh all the time ai thought rhat was just to keep it in place never messed with it 😅

Any idea if it should be more loose or tighter

[steep sand]

I think to the right was less sensetive but i always forget it too

[rapid nimbus]

Left the area will give it a try morning thanks

[rapid nimbus]

Thanks its probing now might have to adjust a bit more my new bed seem to be bowed higher in the middle and lower sides quite a big difference 😅

Unfortunately cannot get it any better they don’t really care about perfect flatness here

[rapid nimbus]

Wel it probes but fails randomly for some reason

Everytime a different place even if it passed ir before decides it doesn’t want to go down enough or blink and not deploy checked the wiring all good never touched firmware side

Attempting one last time then will just off it and print center only hope it works

[rapid nimbus]

Everything works perfectly but this cunt

Have manually levelled Bed multiple times z offset is set correctly as i always printed before no issues just the probe being stubborn

[steep sand]

hmmm

you could try adding 2 or 3 layers of alumium foil in that corner or lower the probe in general by a mm

[rapid nimbus]

Did lower the probe max possibile height

Still occurs unfortunately

I dont assume i can “unstick” the silicon heatbead and attempt straightening aluminum

[steep sand]

that would be the solution yes

[rapid nimbus]

I dont assume foil would work it seems to be pretty bad I’ll take a video in a bit

Only peoblem now im not sure how we can remove the heater without messing it up and the tape

[steep sand]

crealiity print bed quality 😄

[rapid nimbus]

Well this time it’s more of me had it laser cut as the stock bed heater cant be removed

[steep sand]

i know but you can still bend the plate

its just glued so it should stick

[rapid nimbus]

That’s what i want to attempt though unsure how

Was looking into maybe switching it to the other side so the corners are high and the center is low?

[steep sand]

might work might not work

i always layed the beds on the ground with a thin piece of print like 2mm in the middle and then went bending

[rapid nimbus]

This is my bed currently

Hope its clear enough

I dont have a magnet sheet installed yet it hasn’t arrived

So the top pei plate is held by binder clips for now

If that makes a difference?

[rapid nimbus]

This is with bed corners levelled and z offset done

Its probing but for some reason towards the end goes down probes then foes back up deploys and stows again before saying probe failed

[rapid nimbus]

Im giving up on abl snd trying to get it printing a benchy without one

[rapid nimbus]

I have left it to print till tomorrow hope the ssr wont fail me but still without abl first layer was not good took multiple attempts

[rapid nimbus]

I have no idea why the top half did not print

[rapid nimbus]

Extruded fine no blobs or clogs I’m just confused currently

[rapid nimbus]

Took this yesterday but not sure if that is a problem for extruder

[rapid nimbus]

Not sure if thats the issue but both z rod seem to have devided to drop to the shaft though i never saw any wasted plastic might also had an extrusion problem?

[rapid nimbus]

Not good

Had no issues with the skirt but the print itself is messed up suspecting extrusion issue but esteps are calibrated and skirt did good so im guessing leveling as no abl for this?

255c hotend spool says 245

[ebon egret]

Thats not good at all, its lifting when it tries to extrude, but will hardly extrude anything, the when the motor stops extruding - it will still extrude as the weight pushes the motor downwards, so everything is delayed, you need rid of the that bracket/glue which is holding the extruder on the top of the hotend.

Either get a proper strong one or put the original one back on.

Youll never get anything or anything decent like this.

Sorry but true

[rapid nimbus]

Awh ill have to redo it in a better way I don’t have any other mounting option currently I’ll see if i can get it stable mounting it to the screw ontop of the sensor too

[steep sand]

You could try using a steel tube between extruder and hotend as support beam but im not sure if that will damage something

[rapid nimbus]

I think that will put pressure on the pla hotend mounting will just destroy it overtime

Ive got this long screw i was thinking to maybe make the extruder stepper facing back ontop of the rail instead of the sides and make it also screw on this tight could help absorb some shock

[steep sand]

You really need to make the important bits out of metal 😄

[rapid nimbus]

Thankfully everything is metal except the mount that holds the hotend + cooling wish i could but it’s not possible with laser cutting

[rapid nimbus]

Im now assuming the thrust from this caused the z rods to hit the shaft

[opal vortex]

Go to petg

Its a bit stronger

But use 4 walls and cubic

[rapid nimbus]

Im going abs just want to get the mounting printed for heat resistance in this petg

I can fix rhe extruder problem but the sensor issues persist

Extruder mount should be done sat/sun will test then trying to resolve abl for now

[rapid nimbus]

Any downsides if i just ditch marlin to klipper or would that not help to get leveling back?

[opal vortex]

Abs is toxic material

[rapid nimbus]

Yes will be enclosed and vented out when the time inevitably comes

[opal vortex]

ok

[ebon egret]

Not vented but recycle filtered through carbon, then you won't lose the heat that you need in the chamber

[rapid nimbus]

I did get a vent kit but don’t think it came with a carbon filter I’ll have to check and get one if not thanks

[ebon egret]

It's not a vent though, it keeps everything inside just circulates it through carbon.
Have a look for a Nevermore filter, these are good

[rapid nimbus]

I think I might have gotten the wrong thing?

YOOPAI Fan Fume Extraction Kit for 3D Printer Enclosure For all yoopai 3D Printer Enclosure include Bambu lab Enclosure
https://a.aliexpress.com/_c40srqsF

I haven’t given it a test but when I ordered said ventilation

[rapid nimbus]

Well tried to flash klipper onto the board usb doesn’t work not detected so i think it ruined the board now

[opal vortex]

A board is so frikin expensive

[rapid nimbus]

It was bricked managed to save it with an st link v2. For my board skr e3 mini v2 it looks to be around 27$ to me from aliexpress not much.

[opal vortex]

nice

but dontu need cr touch compatible?

[rapid nimbus]

Works with the 3d touch I have

[opal vortex]

ok

[rapid nimbus]

Any idea what’s causing my probe to do this on klipper?

[rapid nimbus]

Eh

Cannot get it to print unfortunately

[rapid nimbus]

Is calibrating esteps different on klipper?

[steep sand]

You do steps per rotation i think

[rapid nimbus]

I’ve done it got it to print very nicely but it seems to always clog my bmg with shavings and stop pulling

Anyway to prevent this didn’t have the issue with pla before

It was going good

But kept clogging the gears with shavings

[ebon egret]

That looks tidy, but it is a bit underextruded

YOu can see the gaps in there

[steep sand]

Reduce spring tension or increase temp so it melts more easily or your gears might be done if they are older like 1000 too 2000 print hours

[ebon egret]

Also with it being a BMG, make sure that the gears actually line up with each other

[steep sand]

@hasty shell i know you know the name for that type of error ...what was it again?

[rapid nimbus]

Id say maybe around 100-150 hours still pretty new my temps are 255 spool says 245

Go up to 265?

[steep sand]

Petg?

[rapid nimbus]

Petg cf

[steep sand]

5 degree increases

Would stop at 270 because thennyou start cooking and you simply overwhelm the hotend

[rapid nimbus]

I haven’t experienced that with pla but with this it seems to leave alot of shavings until it clogs

I’ve got a spare new bmg clone I’ve put it now will try

[steep sand]

For cf usally .6 is recommended

Everything else ... is useless dust

[rapid nimbus]

Aw i only got a .4 hardened steel

Gonna have to order one then

[steep sand]

Yeah that might be your problem but expect slower speeds with .6 its a squared increase in volume more or less pushed

[rapid nimbus]

Went 0.6 with slower extrusion speeds but still seem to clog

2.5mm retraction if that is bad?

20mm/s retract/de retract speed