After being a long and loyal user of Cura, I tried Orca slicer today. One thing I immediately loved is the built-in calibration models.
I'm running the temperature tower for PLA as we speak.
One thing I noticed is that it appears I have underextrusion on the outer walls, but not on the top? That's odd? (See pics)
What could cause this?
Note that I'm using these settings: https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedMinis/comments/1fp3b5a/fdm_miniatures_how_i_print_them_and_my_workflow/#lightbox albeit slightly less extreme (a lot lower speeds and a thicker layer height)
I have an Ender3V2.
#Underextrusion on the side?
43 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Have you ever hottightend your hotend ? Because creality are stupid and often assembly the hotends only at 190°c
What do you mean "hottightened? Inserting the nozzle at a high temperature?
I always heat it up to 260° when screwing it in, then when it cools it's as if it was welded in the hotend.
correct way to assemble a hotend includes hottightening 🙂 if you suddenly start getting gaps at higher temps its usally because you got a gap in the hotend at that temp or super moist filament.
you could remove the slilicone sock and check for leaking
Mhmmm, but shouldn't I be seeing filament leaking on the sides then?
And... wouldn't I also see it in the solid infill? Because solid infil is near perfect.
my guess would be it slows down there
the leak looks usally something like this
or on top of the hotend
I have had that before, yes. I unscrewed the nozzle, cleaned up the inner threads and reinserted it. Problem was solved after that.
I checked it just now, both on top and below the hotend: couldn't spot any leakage.
Thats good. Do you have a allmetal heatbreak or one where the tube goes all the way down?
I think it's one with a tube that goes all the way down. The extruder is a stock Ender3V2.
okay then all the way down.
did you check if its degraded? the v2 is now what? 5 years old?
It's quite old, yes. I don't know how I should check for degradation. What would be the tell signs?
That said... I'm starting to wonder if there's something off with the Calibration models in Orca slicer. I now printed a CalibrationCat (manually added as an STL) and it didn't suffer from these odd lines at all?
Its possible that the slicer changed somethingelse too? Like speed or so
Degraded looks like this
Had the calicat stringing too?
Probably, yeah. But no idea what. It asked me what settings I wanted to copy over when loading the model. I selected what I wanted, made some more changes, and then printed. I didn't notice anything obvious that the slicer had overruled.
I'd have to open it up for that. I wouldn't be surprised if the tube looks like that by now. I don't think I have ever replaced it on this printer.
That might be a reason.
Do you have a metal extruder or one of the old plastic ones?
Nope. The Calicat was near perfect. No stringing at all.
I also printed a retraction-test afterwards. That one was also near perfect. (at least on everything with >2mm retraction)
Hm
I have a dual gear metal one. I think it was even you who once recommended it to me 😄
(Also non-bowden)
Maybe its simply wrong speed or so. I gave up on cura with orca etc. Beeing so much advanced
Well yeah, that's also why I'm trying Orca now. It's only my first day using it, buy boy.... it has soooo many more options and my prints are already looking way better!
Great 🙂
i did? i get old i cant remember
Yeah, I remember your name. I think you helped me out a couple of times in the past already 🙂
Unless it's me who is getting old and whose memory is failing ^^
you are here a while where i was more active aka roughly 70% of all support requests so there is a high chance i did
Looks like a full printer calibration is required here
In Orca make sure retraction is active (inside filament settings) as a start try 3mm at 45mms, you can tune it better later.
Have we tried Esteps calibration as yet?
I
It was done in the past. Didn't do it when this issue popped up.
Do you think it's still required when seeing this (50%) CaliCat?
(ignore the messy brim leftovers)
If your extruder is clean an good, along eith hotend being clean as @rapid flicker said.
Then checking steps is a good start, then you can start on all of the other calibrations, each will improve the end result
Wtf...? The E-steps seem about 35% off?! How is this possible?! I've been printing with this printer for years?!
Nevermind this, I made a dumb mistake while measuring the extrusion 🙂
Nonetheless, I redid it and it appears I'm about 4% off 🤔