Hi guys I've had a good 4 month break from printing due to some personal issues but before I took a break I had a thermistor issue with my CR10 V2 and I was advised to get a new board and screen bundle https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-skr-mini-e3-v2-0-32-bit-control-board-integrated-tmc2209-uart-for-ender-4 but I'm lost getting it put together I seem to have made some headway plugging into the board but I could do with some more expert eyes helping me if possible
#screen and board install
470 messages Β· Page 1 of 1 (latest)
What is it you are having issues with?
The screen only has 1 cable to plug into 1 port on the board
basically the whole wiring I've got no clue if they're in the right ports etc
its a mess basically
Well, the PCB has the name of the port labeled and I see that your wires are also labeled so just connect the names.
I've got these two wires which go to the gantry which I'm not sure what they are and a d11 plug that I can't find a slot for
I do know the d11 pin is only if I'm plugging a bl touch into my mini board so I'm going to try to run that to the board itself
@pulsar junco take a picture from the board as it is now from the top down. so we can see the entire board.
and i am pretty sure looking at the width of those wires that that is probably your hotend.
So I just redid everything got it turned on and my extruder began smoking π³
Can't really see much from that tbh
oh did you plug those cables into the e0 pin-outs?
its the reason i wanted to see your entire board.
I found a wiring guide and it told me to pin them in
What could be the smoking issue? Wrong fan connected or something?
I turned on just to check it and my hotend started to melt itself πΆ
though looking at that picture you have black wire and black wire next to each other on e0 and HB
i might be color blind though
flip the board around and take a look and see if you are wired correctly.. though. ngl. hotend might be toast.
These two?
Hotend seems fine It was just melting the housing and I got to it super quick
also the fact you probably dont have firmware on there might force the power to go there unregulated.
and yes. that looks like red black black red
Any thoughts?
well thats nice..
im sorry. its good that you apparently know how to read.. who in the hell decides to switch around VIN and make my life more confusing than its supposed to be.
just to make sure, you wired correctly. though i might suggest removing the hotend cables again. when you decide to do the firmware just in case.
so which cable are you still missing or have you plugged everything in?
I've got 2 fans I can't find a port for and they are both in the control box
And sorry if I'm being stupid its very late and this has been in parts for months and I'm just trying to get it fixed π¦
what where the fans for. and no worries.
that board only has 2 fan ports
are you saying in total you have 4 fans?
it does.
technically. most ppl who end up upgrading to a better board decide to get rid of the entire controlbox.
thats thing is ugly and nobody really likes it.
lol. of course.
Can I maybe splice the wires into one port or do I just get rid of them?
well the easiest solution would be to wire the fans together and then directly into the psu.
since they are always on.
What port do you recommend fan0, fan1?
you could also hook them up to one of the other fans. like the heat break fan. and then control those fans if the hotend is on. turn those on as well.
youd do that over the firmware.
Right so would I just simply solder the fans into one or do it another way?
id get something like a wago instead
soldering is a pain in the ...
google this. wago connectors 221
Yeah I've used wagos before π
Think I've got some saying around somewhere
Layinh*
id use those instead π
How should I go about setting up firmware, I've read things that say with this board and a CR10 v2 you need to build your own
Think so haven't used it in months
Like I said in my post had to have a break for reasons and its like I've forgotten absolutely everything
all good.
i always used this.. as a guide.
youll have to adapt using the e3 mini v2
but in principle that first link should get you up and running.. just read everything carefully.
id also look at a few videos..
Will do I'll let you know how I get on
Thanks for the help I know dealing with someone who is still learning can be a pain and I appreciate your patience
so im having issues building the firmware
https://youtu.be/pQ7WZST8sqk following this tutorial on the SKR mini e3 v2 board and everything but i cant build the actual firmware
Having the ability to make changes to the firmware you are running is required if you plan to modify your printer but it also allows you to get new features like z probe offset wizard for those of you with a BLTOUCH. In this video, I walk you through the entire process from start to finish and by the end of it, you should be able to build your o...
whats the error you are getting?
i may have fixed it but i wont know for a few minutes
i was having issues with platformIO not finding the Python interpreter so i just wiped everything and started from scratch
Processing STM32F103RET6_creality (platform: ststm32; board: genericSTM32F103RE; framework: arduino)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Verbose mode can be enabled via -v, --verbose option
In file included from buildroot/share/PlatformIO/scripts/../../../../Marlin/src/inc/MarlinConfigPre.h:39,
from buildroot/share/PlatformIO/scripts/../../../../Marlin/src/inc/MarlinConfig.h:28,
from buildroot/share/PlatformIO/scripts/common-dependencies.h:29:
c:\users\USER\downloads\marlin-2.1.2.2\marlin-2.1.2.2\marlin\configuration.h:3203:15: error: missing binary operator before token "("
3203 | #if DGUS_UI_IS(MKS)
| ^
c:\users\USER\downloads\marlin-2.1.2.2\marlin-2.1.2.2\marlin\configuration.h:3205:17: error: missing binary operator before token "("
3205 | #elif DGUS_UI_IS(IA_CREALITY)
| ^
Error: Failed to parse Marlin features. See previous error messages.
========================================================================================== [FAILED] Took 1.23 seconds ==========================================================================================
Environment Status Duration
STM32F103RET6_creality FAILED 00:00:01.230
Just throws that out every time
right i had to try that myself. i got it to compile. though. you are using the wrong MCU. so my guess is you went ahead and did it 1:1 from that site.. but i meant to use that as a guide instead
i havnt compiled marlin in ages lol.. that took me a second to understand again.
i did alter it to the correct board and stuff though
i used the "bigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 2.0" example file copied that over then changed the values to what the CR10 has like the bed size and everything
oh.. lol. its supposed the be the other way around
you want to use the creality examples in the configuration folder..
and then use the motherboard
make sure platformio.ini has be updated with the correct mcu chip
and are you using a bltouch?
i am yes
where can i find that part?
ah nevermind found it
what do you mean?
lol.
config wise everything is in configuration.h and configuration_adv.h
well those are the only 2 files you should be editing.
if you touch any of the other files you will probably break something.
should be enabled.. you might have to switch some stuff around though like pin outs.
ive got it plugged into the probe port on the board itself if that makes any difference
yes.
i was following that tutorial and it said about the BLTouch ill have to replay it
ah yep its already done
nice
now building
no errors at the moment
https://www.makenprint.uk/3d-printing/3d-printing-guides/skr-mini-e3-v2-configuration-h-marlin-2-setup-part-2/#config https://www.makenprint.uk/3d-printing/3d-printing-guides/skr-mini-e3-v2-marlin-2-setup-part-1/ you might have to delve deeper though..
Make 'N' Print
Setting up the SKR MINI E3 V2 with Marlin 2 maybe daunting for new comers. However, to make life easier we have created the SKR MINI E3 V2 Marlin 2 Setup
if you really get stuck ill help out, but i actually want you do get this yourself.. once you do.. upgrading, moding the printer and doing any changes over the firmware will be a piece of cake π
though i will tell you, if you ever decide to really jump into the rabbit hole of firmware youll end up doing klipper. and thats a totally different kind of beast with the cr-10 v2/3 π
i have a friend who got his first 3d printer and hes already running Klipper but he is much better at coding than me lol
doesnt matter. if you dont start somewhere youll never learn. and marlin is a really great firmware for beginners.
yeah my thoughts exactly and i do appreciate what you guys do to help beginners no matter how frustratingly simple it is
everyone starts somewhere even the experts
jup π my thought is acutally if i help you now.. i can give you the job later on the help the others π
exactly!
@ancient frost hit my first block
i have a TFT35-E3 so how would I put that into the firmware or doesnt it matter?
and just stick with CR10_stockdisplay
so ive gone through everything apart from that LCD part which i cant figure out
been researching and still cant find anything but there is a TFT35 option but its tied to a MKS_ROBIN_TFT35 option π€·ββοΈ
which is a touch screen only screen
https://biqu.equipment/en-gb/products/btt-tft35-e3-v3-0-display-touch-screen-two-working-modes believe it is this one
Biqu Equipment
Key features: Appearance Size:Β 93*87mm Installation Size:Β Perfectly replace the original LCD screen of Ender3 printer Microprocessor:Β STM32F207VCT6 Power Input:Β DC 5V SD Card Logic Voltage:Β 3.3V and 5V Application Use For:Β SKR MINI E3, SKR, SKR PRO, etc Support Printing Mode:Β SD Card and USB Flash Drive Condition:Β New
try this . //#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER
yes, the important part is that it goes through
okay
if you get warnings.,, thats fine.. firmware will work without issues.. its the errors that are problematic.
π
whats you max temp on your hotend.. its currently locked at 255 which means max temp of 240
since the upper 15C are for runout
i have the stock CR10 v2 hotend on at the moment ill have to look it up
no clue π
its fine im looking at the pinout schematics of e3 mini v2
ah wait yes i do
do you remember your e-steps?
they are currently set to 97
thats a default value.. you would have to redo your e-steps
i marked it.
im now watching a video on esteps
seems fairly simple
never actually knew to do that
it is. you just have to have done it atleast once to understand it π
sorry almost finished.. just checking everything.
all good i appreciate it
can you send me configuration_adv.h file as well please
i flagged any changes i made with //hirnspiel just search for that.. and then try. π
i didnt do any changes in configuration_adv.h
okay ill give it a try
give me a second.
im giving it a try on my system first..
there is some wierd error
gotcha
where did you get the configuration file from?
github like the tutorial showed
wierd i have descrepancy from config file version..
this is the example file #define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 02010202
this is yours. #define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 02010300
can you take a screen shot of where you got it from.
i can in around 10 mins im just finishing something off π
no problem.. take your time.
in the mean time im going to update the correct config file with the changes
apparently they made some changes.
cr-10_stockdisplay for the tft35-e3-v3 display.
anyways that should compile. check the comments //hirnspiel to see the changes..
and then compile to see if you can compile on your machine.
dont forget to update your configuration.h file if you do e-steps calibration and stuff like that.. so its automatically compiled into any changes or firmware upgrades you might make π
otherwise youll have to do it from scratch.
right im back on my PC sorry it took so long
no worries, i sent you the 7zip file of the entire marlin including the updated config files.
those compile. so you should have a great starting point.
now building them π
so after building them do i just throw them onto my sd card and plug it in like normal firmware updates or something else?
do you see that folder .pio in the explorer tree in visual code?
yep
youll have a build folder and then the mcu chip name which will also be a folder.
in there you will find the file firmware.bin upload this file wihtout renaming to sdcard plug into board and power up.
it will install the firmware.. it shouldnt take long er than 1 minute.
if nothing happens there might be an error but i doubt. it.
yeah ive done that with my Ender 3 V2 before
oh okay π
so about the esteps do i just calibrate them normally on the printer or do i have to write it into the Firmware again?
you do it on the printer.. but it would be a good idea to update the configuration.h file with the new numbers as well.
incase you change something youll have them in the firmware set, so you dont have to redo them.
also. before printing. test all the axis. etc.. keep your finger on the power button just incase.
found the firmware.bin
did you look at all the //hirnspiel settings i changed?
oops forgot that
btw. i forgot to enable z-probe wizard. so youll ahve to do that.
ill look now
its in configuration_adv.h search for wizard. π
theres no z-probe wizard theres
ASSISTED_TRAMMING_WIZARD
//#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD
//#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD_START_Z
//#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD_XY_POS
//#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD // Add a Probe Z Offset calibration option to the LCD menu
thats the one.
ahhhhhh
enabled it
ive read throught the notes
so if my motors are reversed i just change the invert_Z_DIR to false or true?
@ancient frost it's saying no sd card detected
yes
did it install the firmware?
I put in the board port not the screen
I plugged the sd card in but it just booted like normal
what?
Hang on I'll do a video
yes please, thank you π
? you are trying to update the firmware on the board right?
Yep
you should be putting that into the board.
Same thing happened on the board though
also. make sure sdcard is formatted as fat32
Just booted normally
check the version
Ah might not be formatted right
for some reason the .bin file turned into a .CUR file
then it installed
it did install then
yes
weird it didnt show like im used to lol
click the menu button on the screen
and check under information or about or general
and see which firmware version is on there
there is also a really much easier way..
yeah. that thing is also a mini computer. it sucks.
anyways.. connect the board the computer.
download pronterface.
and connect through there.
have you ever done anything with pronterface?
You'll have to give me a few mins lol this printers alll the way in my garage and my desktop is alllll the way upstairs π
lol. sorry.. no laptop or anything?
Gimme a sec actually
or raspberry pi?
lol. octoprint terminal would also work π
but honestly. if you say you have an raspberry pi. im gonna get angry.. cause you should be using klipper then.
I may do it in the future don't get me wrong just with the volume I print at, at the moment I don't see the point π
ahh okay. it does make sense.. if you print every now and then. it wouldnt really make sense when you can walk the few steps to the printer π
Yeah and if I'm away from it I have people who can check for me
I have human octoprint
lol.
Pain
it happens.
Nearly done
no worries im doing my own configuration at the moment. so dont worry about me twiddling my thumbs and waiting on you :p
like i said no worries
Yeah I just want to get started lol had the printer in bits taunting me for months π
Its done!
nice. connected using pronterface?
I'll have to grab pronterface quickly
its a software that is included in printrun
https://github.com/kliment/Printrun/releases/download/printrun-1.6.0/Printrun-win-18Nov2017.zip im not sure if the version 2 works.
just and fyi
sorry.. i am trying to figure out where interfaces.d went in ubuntu 22.04.2
i love how the change stuff around.
anyways pronterface up and runnig and connected ?
if not open device manager to see which com port (under usb section) and see which one is active.
itll be something like com3 etc..
then put that into pronterface at the top taskbar. and use baudrate 250000
hit connect and tell me if the terminal window on the right says something like "connected to printer"
printer is now online
can you send me screenshot
yes please π
M503
SENDING:M503
echo:; Linear Units:
echo: G21 ; (mm)
echo:; Temperature Units:
echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:; Filament settings (Disabled):
echo: M200 S0 D1.75
echo:; Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E97.00
echo:; Max feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X750.00 Y750.00 Z15.00 E75.00
echo:; Max Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00
echo:; Acceleration (units/s2) (P<print-accel> R<retract-accel> T<travel-accel>):
echo: M204 P800.00 R1000.00 T800.00
echo:; Advanced (B<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> X<max_jerk> Y<max_jerk> Z<max_jerk> E<max_jerk>):
echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:; Auto Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S0 Z10.00 ; Leveling OFF
echo:; Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H205.00 B60.00 F0
echo: M145 S1 H230.00 B80.00 F0
echo:; Hotend PID:
echo: M301 P19.47 I1.59 D59.40
echo:; Bed PID:
echo: M304 P690.34 I111.47 D1068.83
echo:; Z-Probe Offset:
echo: M851 X47.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 ; (mm)
echo:; Stepper driver current:
echo: M906 X730 Y730 Z850
echo: M906 T0 E730
echo:; Driver stepping mode:
echo: M569 S1 X Y Z
echo:; Filament load/unload:
echo: M603 L430.00 U435.00 ; (mm)
echo:; Filament runout sensor:
echo: M412 S1 D5.00 ; Sensor ON
ok P15 B3
right that sucks. but it uploaded the new firmware.. i though it always showed the version.
i dont know if it matters but i dont have the bed attached to the body of the printer and i need to solder on a replacement bed thermistor and the extruder is dangling off due to the fire thing the other day so if theres issues thats probably why
what sucks??
echo:; Hotend PID:
echo: M301 P19.47 I1.59 D59.40 // CR-10 V2
#if ENABLED(PID_PARAMS_PER_HOTEND)
// Specify up to one value per hotend here, according to your setup.
// If there are fewer values, the last one applies to the remaining hotends.
#define DEFAULT_Kp_LIST { 19.47, 19.47 }
#define DEFAULT_Ki_LIST { 1.59, 1.59 }
#define DEFAULT_Kd_LIST { 59.40, 59.40 }
#else
#define DEFAULT_Kp 19.47
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.59
#define DEFAULT_Kd 59.40
its not showing the firmware version. <- thats what sucks.
ohhhhhh
in principle M503 gives you all the settings you have done.
in a simple read me way. π
its also the way you can change your settings
oh cool
for instance..
Marlin Firmware
Use M92 to set the steps-per-unit for one or more axes. This setting affects how many steps will be done for each unit of movement.
M92 E189; will set the new e-steps
once you figure out what your e-steps are
yeah ill need the printer reassembled to that i think
E <- for extruder and 189 fictional number i used
youll have to test axis, etc, but i would help if everything assembled.. then you make changes like invert stepper direction, in the firmware compile. reflash using sdcard.. and then you calibrate and tune your printer
so the board is installed properly and everything?
until its assembled. i wouldnt do anything grandios π
yeah thatll be a job for tomorrow morning i think XD
jup. the fact you connected to it without issue is a good sign π
oh thank jebus
well ill give it a rest for tonight i think and ill pick it up first thing in the morning
you might want to click through the screen and see if the options are there
the fact that the screen says no printer connected is an error. its should be connected.
its kinda a bug.
also personal preference. use the sdport on the board instead of the screen. it doesnt always work correctly. but i never went after fixing it. since i ended up connecting a pi and doing everything over web interface. it might be fixed with some display firmware updates.
i ended up removing my entire display it was annoying after doing everything over the web interface.
so at the mo the axis arent doing anything but that may be something ive not plugged back in
or its to do with no printer attached
over the screen?
yeah the screen isnt moving the axis
nothing happened
ill leave it for now and take a proper look tomorrow
have a break XD
thank you so much for all your help and knowledge hirnspiel
g0 X10
SENDING:G0 X10
ok P14 B3
did it do anything?
pronterface has controls as well.
it might be interfering at the moment with the display
then again. are the motors plugged in?
we will have to take a look tomorrow. im also tired at the moment.
Connecting...
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
echo:No SD card
yeah we'll call it a night
thx hirnspiel
β€οΈ
m122
SENDING:M122
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
ok P15 B3
okay. ill have to look into the firmware again. and check you board.. can you take a picture of the boards MCU, i just need to make sure its the correct mcu and find out if TMC2209 are the correct steppers
disconnect and turn off the printer for now. we will take a look tomorrow evening.
much thanks.
interesting..
can you check the wiring.. according to my research the firmware is configured correctly.
what am i looking for?
loose connection. check if the wiring is correct. sometimes the wire is exactly inverted from the plug itself.
youll have to look at the connections themselves from the schematic.
okay.
Yeah after those two wires get plugged in
thats not good.
The black wire has a red line on it
im not sure. i ended up replacing my hotend.
anyways we will figure it out tomorrow.
Yeah night dude
u 2. get some rest. π
il be back around 19:00 austria time.
its now 23:21 so you can figure out when to hit me up π
yeah im UK so hour behind π
oh, thats nice. tell we will talk tomorrow evening.
π
night π
Hey hirnspiel, sorry about not getting back to this ive had something come up that's going to take up like a couple days if you're still okay helping me I should be able to continue in a day or two π
no worries, ill still be here when you return. private priorities first π
@ancient frost hey hirn sorry i took so long getting back to this π if you're still available some time I'd really really appreciate your help continuing π if you have time of course
@pulsar junco sure give me a day or so. currently stuck in bed with the flu, if i feel a little better ill help out. might be later today.
No rush I'm also kicking some illness too π
@pulsar junco hey did you get a chance to play around with your install? do you still need help?
I've not had time yet been veryy busy but from what I have done on my own my axis motors still seem to not work and I'm having that heating problem where the extruder just gets extremely hot on its own
From what I've dug up online these wires are the 24v for the extruder
So somethings obviously being overloaded and causing that heat issue
Wether I need to change that 24v to 12v I don't know
can you remember what the issue with the motors was? just that they where not moving or they where stuttering?
as for the hotend.. youll have to look that up and see if thats a 12V or 24V hotend. thats important.
They weren't working at all
yeah which is really odd. are they even receiving any power? do you have a multimeter?
I do not, it could be something I've plugged in wrong though so might need some more tinkering
i would really suggest getting a multimeter just to be safe. they are not expensive and totally worth it to have around even if you only use it once a year..
