#screen and board install

470 messages Β· Page 1 of 1 (latest)

pulsar junco
unreal rover
#

What is it you are having issues with?

#

The screen only has 1 cable to plug into 1 port on the board

pulsar junco
#

basically the whole wiring I've got no clue if they're in the right ports etc

#

its a mess basically

unreal rover
#

Well, the PCB has the name of the port labeled and I see that your wires are also labeled so just connect the names.

pulsar junco
#

I've got these two wires which go to the gantry which I'm not sure what they are and a d11 plug that I can't find a slot for

#

I do know the d11 pin is only if I'm plugging a bl touch into my mini board so I'm going to try to run that to the board itself

ancient frost
#

@pulsar junco take a picture from the board as it is now from the top down. so we can see the entire board.

#

and i am pretty sure looking at the width of those wires that that is probably your hotend.

pulsar junco
#

So I just redid everything got it turned on and my extruder began smoking 😳

#

Can't really see much from that tbh

ancient frost
#

oh did you plug those cables into the e0 pin-outs?

#

its the reason i wanted to see your entire board.

pulsar junco
#

I found a wiring guide and it told me to pin them in

#

What could be the smoking issue? Wrong fan connected or something?

ancient frost
#

smoking issue?

#

what.

pulsar junco
#

I turned on just to check it and my hotend started to melt itself 😢

unreal rover
#

What

#

That's no good

ancient frost
#

though looking at that picture you have black wire and black wire next to each other on e0 and HB

#

i might be color blind though

#

flip the board around and take a look and see if you are wired correctly.. though. ngl. hotend might be toast.

pulsar junco
#

These two?

#

Hotend seems fine It was just melting the housing and I got to it super quick

ancient frost
#

also the fact you probably dont have firmware on there might force the power to go there unregulated.

pulsar junco
#

Ahhh that might be it

#

I haven't even begun firmware stuff

ancient frost
#

and yes. that looks like red black black red

pulsar junco
#

Any thoughts?

ancient frost
#

well thats nice..

#

im sorry. its good that you apparently know how to read.. who in the hell decides to switch around VIN and make my life more confusing than its supposed to be.

#

just to make sure, you wired correctly. though i might suggest removing the hotend cables again. when you decide to do the firmware just in case.

#

so which cable are you still missing or have you plugged everything in?

pulsar junco
#

I've got 2 fans I can't find a port for and they are both in the control box

#

And sorry if I'm being stupid its very late and this has been in parts for months and I'm just trying to get it fixed 😦

ancient frost
#

what where the fans for. and no worries.

#

that board only has 2 fan ports

#

are you saying in total you have 4 fans?

pulsar junco
#

Two fans found here and here

#

Think it just keeps the board cool

ancient frost
#

it does.

#

technically. most ppl who end up upgrading to a better board decide to get rid of the entire controlbox.

#

thats thing is ugly and nobody really likes it.

pulsar junco
#

I kinda like it

#

πŸ˜„

ancient frost
#

lol. of course.

pulsar junco
#

Can I maybe splice the wires into one port or do I just get rid of them?

ancient frost
#

well the easiest solution would be to wire the fans together and then directly into the psu.

#

since they are always on.

pulsar junco
#

What port do you recommend fan0, fan1?

ancient frost
#

you could also hook them up to one of the other fans. like the heat break fan. and then control those fans if the hotend is on. turn those on as well.

#

youd do that over the firmware.

pulsar junco
#

Right so would I just simply solder the fans into one or do it another way?

ancient frost
#

id get something like a wago instead

#

soldering is a pain in the ...

#

google this. wago connectors 221

pulsar junco
#

Yeah I've used wagos before πŸ™‚

#

Think I've got some saying around somewhere

#

Layinh*

ancient frost
#

id use those instead πŸ™‚

pulsar junco
#

How should I go about setting up firmware, I've read things that say with this board and a CR10 v2 you need to build your own

ancient frost
#

cr-10v2?

#

nice printer

#

i have the cr-10v3

pulsar junco
#

Thanks πŸ™‚ my other printer is a Ender 3 v2

#

Which was also my first

ancient frost
#

which firmware?

#

marlin?

pulsar junco
#

Think so haven't used it in months

#

Like I said in my post had to have a break for reasons and its like I've forgotten absolutely everything

ancient frost
#

all good.

#

i always used this.. as a guide.

#

youll have to adapt using the e3 mini v2

#

but in principle that first link should get you up and running.. just read everything carefully.

#

id also look at a few videos..

pulsar junco
#

Will do I'll let you know how I get on

#

Thanks for the help I know dealing with someone who is still learning can be a pain and I appreciate your patience

pulsar junco
#

so im having issues building the firmware

#

https://youtu.be/pQ7WZST8sqk following this tutorial on the SKR mini e3 v2 board and everything but i cant build the actual firmware

Having the ability to make changes to the firmware you are running is required if you plan to modify your printer but it also allows you to get new features like z probe offset wizard for those of you with a BLTOUCH. In this video, I walk you through the entire process from start to finish and by the end of it, you should be able to build your o...

β–Ά Play video
ancient frost
#

whats the error you are getting?

pulsar junco
#

i may have fixed it but i wont know for a few minutes

#

i was having issues with platformIO not finding the Python interpreter so i just wiped everything and started from scratch

#

Processing STM32F103RET6_creality (platform: ststm32; board: genericSTM32F103RE; framework: arduino)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Verbose mode can be enabled via -v, --verbose option
In file included from buildroot/share/PlatformIO/scripts/../../../../Marlin/src/inc/MarlinConfigPre.h:39,
from buildroot/share/PlatformIO/scripts/../../../../Marlin/src/inc/MarlinConfig.h:28,
from buildroot/share/PlatformIO/scripts/common-dependencies.h:29:
c:\users\USER\downloads\marlin-2.1.2.2\marlin-2.1.2.2\marlin\configuration.h:3203:15: error: missing binary operator before token "("
3203 | #if DGUS_UI_IS(MKS)
| ^
c:\users\USER\downloads\marlin-2.1.2.2\marlin-2.1.2.2\marlin\configuration.h:3205:17: error: missing binary operator before token "("
3205 | #elif DGUS_UI_IS(IA_CREALITY)
| ^
Error: Failed to parse Marlin features. See previous error messages.
========================================================================================== [FAILED] Took 1.23 seconds ==========================================================================================

Environment Status Duration


STM32F103RET6_creality FAILED 00:00:01.230

pulsar junco
ancient frost
#

right i had to try that myself. i got it to compile. though. you are using the wrong MCU. so my guess is you went ahead and did it 1:1 from that site.. but i meant to use that as a guide instead

#

i havnt compiled marlin in ages lol.. that took me a second to understand again.

pulsar junco
#

i did alter it to the correct board and stuff though

#

i used the "bigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 2.0" example file copied that over then changed the values to what the CR10 has like the bed size and everything

ancient frost
#

oh.. lol. its supposed the be the other way around

#

you want to use the creality examples in the configuration folder..

#

and then use the motherboard

#

make sure platformio.ini has be updated with the correct mcu chip

#

and are you using a bltouch?

pulsar junco
#

i am yes

pulsar junco
#

lol

pulsar junco
#

ah nevermind found it

ancient frost
#

what do you mean?

#

lol.

#

config wise everything is in configuration.h and configuration_adv.h

#

well those are the only 2 files you should be editing.

#

if you touch any of the other files you will probably break something.

pulsar junco
#

ah right

#

so what about the BL touch?

ancient frost
#

should be enabled.. you might have to switch some stuff around though like pin outs.

pulsar junco
#

ive got it plugged into the probe port on the board itself if that makes any difference

ancient frost
#

yes.

pulsar junco
#

i was following that tutorial and it said about the BLTouch ill have to replay it

#

ah yep its already done

#

nice

#

now building

#

no errors at the moment

ancient frost
#
Make 'N' Print

Setting up the SKR MINI E3 V2 with Marlin 2 maybe daunting for new comers. However, to make life easier we have created the SKR MINI E3 V2 Marlin 2 Setup

Make 'N' Print

Setting up the Configuration.h file for the SKR MINI E3 V2 with Marlin 2. With settings for the SKR MINI E3 V2 for Creality Ender 3 / V2 or Ender 3 Pro.

pulsar junco
#

ill take a look

#

Thx hirnspiel

ancient frost
#

if you really get stuck ill help out, but i actually want you do get this yourself.. once you do.. upgrading, moding the printer and doing any changes over the firmware will be a piece of cake πŸ™‚

pulsar junco
#

yeah i understand and i appreciate it

#

i have been wanting to learn this stuff

ancient frost
#

though i will tell you, if you ever decide to really jump into the rabbit hole of firmware youll end up doing klipper. and thats a totally different kind of beast with the cr-10 v2/3 πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

i have a friend who got his first 3d printer and hes already running Klipper but he is much better at coding than me lol

ancient frost
#

doesnt matter. if you dont start somewhere youll never learn. and marlin is a really great firmware for beginners.

pulsar junco
#

yeah my thoughts exactly and i do appreciate what you guys do to help beginners no matter how frustratingly simple it is

#

everyone starts somewhere even the experts

ancient frost
#

jup πŸ™‚ my thought is acutally if i help you now.. i can give you the job later on the help the others πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

exactly!

pulsar junco
#

@ancient frost hit my first block

#

i have a TFT35-E3 so how would I put that into the firmware or doesnt it matter?

#

and just stick with CR10_stockdisplay

pulsar junco
#

so ive gone through everything apart from that LCD part which i cant figure out

pulsar junco
#

been researching and still cant find anything but there is a TFT35 option but its tied to a MKS_ROBIN_TFT35 option πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

#

which is a touch screen only screen

ancient frost
#

the tft35-e3 which version do dyou have?

#

@pulsar junco

pulsar junco
#
Biqu Equipment

Key features: Appearance Size:Β 93*87mm Installation Size:Β Perfectly replace the original LCD screen of Ender3 printer Microprocessor:Β STM32F207VCT6 Power Input:Β DC 5V SD Card Logic Voltage:Β 3.3V and 5V Application Use For:Β SKR MINI E3, SKR, SKR PRO, etc Support Printing Mode:Β SD Card and USB Flash Drive Condition:Β New

ancient frost
#

try this . //#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

pulsar junco
#

will do

#

so do i just let them build now?

ancient frost
#

yes, the important part is that it goes through

pulsar junco
#

okay

ancient frost
#

if you get warnings.,, thats fine.. firmware will work without issues.. its the errors that are problematic.

pulsar junco
ancient frost
#

upload the configuration.h here..

#

ill take a look

pulsar junco
ancient frost
#

if i make changes ill add them as //hirnspiel

#

as a comment

pulsar junco
#

πŸ‘

ancient frost
#

whats you max temp on your hotend.. its currently locked at 255 which means max temp of 240

#

since the upper 15C are for runout

pulsar junco
#

i have the stock CR10 v2 hotend on at the moment ill have to look it up

ancient frost
#

all good ill take a look

#

i keep forgetting you have cr-10v2

pulsar junco
#

lol

#

apparently its 260 degrees celsius

#

according to 3DPrintersBay

ancient frost
#

sounds good ill set it at 285

#

question you have dual z right?

pulsar junco
#

no clue πŸ˜…

ancient frost
#

its fine im looking at the pinout schematics of e3 mini v2

pulsar junco
#

ah wait yes i do

ancient frost
#

do you remember your e-steps?

pulsar junco
#

not off the top of my head no

#

where can i find them?

ancient frost
#

they are currently set to 97

#

thats a default value.. you would have to redo your e-steps

#

i marked it.

pulsar junco
#

im now watching a video on esteps

#

seems fairly simple

#

never actually knew to do that

ancient frost
#

it is. you just have to have done it atleast once to understand it πŸ™‚

#

sorry almost finished.. just checking everything.

pulsar junco
#

all good i appreciate it

ancient frost
#

can you send me configuration_adv.h file as well please

pulsar junco
#

yup

ancient frost
#

i flagged any changes i made with //hirnspiel just search for that.. and then try. πŸ˜„

#

i didnt do any changes in configuration_adv.h

pulsar junco
#

okay ill give it a try

ancient frost
#

give me a second.

#

im giving it a try on my system first..

#

there is some wierd error

pulsar junco
#

gotcha

ancient frost
#

where did you get the configuration file from?

pulsar junco
#

github like the tutorial showed

ancient frost
#

wierd i have descrepancy from config file version..

#

this is the example file #define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 02010202

#

this is yours. #define CONFIGURATION_H_VERSION 02010300

#

can you take a screen shot of where you got it from.

pulsar junco
#

i can in around 10 mins im just finishing something off πŸ™‚

ancient frost
#

no problem.. take your time.

#

in the mean time im going to update the correct config file with the changes

ancient frost
#

apparently they made some changes.

#

cr-10_stockdisplay for the tft35-e3-v3 display.

#

anyways that should compile. check the comments //hirnspiel to see the changes..

#

and then compile to see if you can compile on your machine.

#

dont forget to update your configuration.h file if you do e-steps calibration and stuff like that.. so its automatically compiled into any changes or firmware upgrades you might make πŸ™‚

#

otherwise youll have to do it from scratch.

pulsar junco
#

right im back on my PC sorry it took so long

ancient frost
#

no worries, i sent you the 7zip file of the entire marlin including the updated config files.

#

those compile. so you should have a great starting point.

pulsar junco
#

now building them πŸ™‚

#

so after building them do i just throw them onto my sd card and plug it in like normal firmware updates or something else?

ancient frost
#

do you see that folder .pio in the explorer tree in visual code?

pulsar junco
#

yep

ancient frost
#

youll have a build folder and then the mcu chip name which will also be a folder.

#

in there you will find the file firmware.bin upload this file wihtout renaming to sdcard plug into board and power up.

#

it will install the firmware.. it shouldnt take long er than 1 minute.

#

if nothing happens there might be an error but i doubt. it.

pulsar junco
#

yeah ive done that with my Ender 3 V2 before

ancient frost
#

oh okay πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

so about the esteps do i just calibrate them normally on the printer or do i have to write it into the Firmware again?

ancient frost
#

you do it on the printer.. but it would be a good idea to update the configuration.h file with the new numbers as well.

#

incase you change something youll have them in the firmware set, so you dont have to redo them.

#

also. before printing. test all the axis. etc.. keep your finger on the power button just incase.

pulsar junco
#

found the firmware.bin

ancient frost
#

did you look at all the //hirnspiel settings i changed?

pulsar junco
#

oops forgot that

ancient frost
#

btw. i forgot to enable z-probe wizard. so youll ahve to do that.

pulsar junco
#

ill look now

ancient frost
#

its in configuration_adv.h search for wizard. πŸ™‚

pulsar junco
#

theres no z-probe wizard theres

ASSISTED_TRAMMING_WIZARD
//#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD

#

//#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD_START_Z

#

//#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD_XY_POS

ancient frost
#

//#define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD // Add a Probe Z Offset calibration option to the LCD menu

#

thats the one.

pulsar junco
#

ahhhhhh

#

enabled it

#

ive read throught the notes

#

so if my motors are reversed i just change the invert_Z_DIR to false or true?

#

@ancient frost it's saying no sd card detected

ancient frost
#

did it install the firmware?

pulsar junco
#

I put in the board port not the screen

#

I plugged the sd card in but it just booted like normal

ancient frost
#

what?

pulsar junco
#

Hang on I'll do a video

ancient frost
#

yes please, thank you πŸ™‚

pulsar junco
ancient frost
#

? you are trying to update the firmware on the board right?

pulsar junco
#

Yep

ancient frost
#

you should be putting that into the board.

pulsar junco
#

Same thing happened on the board though

ancient frost
#

also. make sure sdcard is formatted as fat32

pulsar junco
#

Just booted normally

ancient frost
#

check the version

pulsar junco
#

Ah might not be formatted right

#

for some reason the .bin file turned into a .CUR file

ancient frost
#

then it installed

pulsar junco
#

it did install then

ancient frost
#

yes

pulsar junco
#

weird it didnt show like im used to lol

ancient frost
#

click the menu button on the screen

#

and check under information or about or general

#

and see which firmware version is on there

#

there is also a really much easier way..

pulsar junco
ancient frost
#

yeah. that thing is also a mini computer. it sucks.

#

anyways.. connect the board the computer.

#

download pronterface.

#

and connect through there.

#

have you ever done anything with pronterface?

pulsar junco
#

You'll have to give me a few mins lol this printers alll the way in my garage and my desktop is alllll the way upstairs πŸ˜‚

ancient frost
#

lol. sorry.. no laptop or anything?

pulsar junco
#

Gimme a sec actually

ancient frost
#

or raspberry pi?

#

lol. octoprint terminal would also work πŸ˜„

#

but honestly. if you say you have an raspberry pi. im gonna get angry.. cause you should be using klipper then.

pulsar junco
#

I have acquired a laptop

#

Its a very slow laptop

#

Ofc windows update

ancient frost
#

all good πŸ™‚

#

now to my question from earlier. do you have a raspberry pi?

pulsar junco
#

Nope

#

I'm not fancy like that

ancient frost
#

okay.

#

just making sure πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

Nor octoprint

#

I did look into it but didn't see the point

ancient frost
#

really how come?

#

i really enjoy having octoprint or mainsail in my case. πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

I may do it in the future don't get me wrong just with the volume I print at, at the moment I don't see the point πŸ˜‚

ancient frost
#

ahh okay. it does make sense.. if you print every now and then. it wouldnt really make sense when you can walk the few steps to the printer πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

Yeah and if I'm away from it I have people who can check for me

#

I have human octoprint

ancient frost
#

lol.

pulsar junco
ancient frost
#

it happens.

pulsar junco
#

Nearly done

ancient frost
#

no worries im doing my own configuration at the moment. so dont worry about me twiddling my thumbs and waiting on you :p

pulsar junco
#

Just stuck on "cleaning up"

#

I crie inside

ancient frost
#

like i said no worries

pulsar junco
#

Yeah I just want to get started lol had the printer in bits taunting me for months πŸ˜‚

#

Its done!

ancient frost
#

nice. connected using pronterface?

pulsar junco
#

I'll have to grab pronterface quickly

ancient frost
#

its a software that is included in printrun

#

just and fyi

pulsar junco
#

Laptop crashed on me

#

Just going to take it to my desktop

ancient frost
#

😦

#

that sucks

#

okay.

pulsar junco
#

Can I just take the control box up or do I need the while printer?

#

Whole*

ancient frost
#

i think you needthe whole printer.

#

im not sure though

pulsar junco
#

Okay

#

Better to be safe than sorry

#

right its plugged in

ancient frost
#

sorry.. i am trying to figure out where interfaces.d went in ubuntu 22.04.2

#

i love how the change stuff around.

#

anyways pronterface up and runnig and connected ?

#

if not open device manager to see which com port (under usb section) and see which one is active.

#

itll be something like com3 etc..

#

then put that into pronterface at the top taskbar. and use baudrate 250000

#

hit connect and tell me if the terminal window on the right says something like "connected to printer"

pulsar junco
#

printer is now online

ancient frost
#

can you send me screenshot

pulsar junco
ancient frost
#

nice. πŸ™‚

#

M503; and enter

#

in the command line by the terminal πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

done

#

copy and paste in here?

ancient frost
#

yes please πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

M503
SENDING:M503
echo:; Linear Units:
echo: G21 ; (mm)
echo:; Temperature Units:
echo: M149 C ; Units in Celsius
echo:; Filament settings (Disabled):
echo: M200 S0 D1.75
echo:; Steps per unit:
echo: M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E97.00
echo:; Max feedrates (units/s):
echo: M203 X750.00 Y750.00 Z15.00 E75.00
echo:; Max Acceleration (units/s2):
echo: M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00
echo:; Acceleration (units/s2) (P<print-accel> R<retract-accel> T<travel-accel>):
echo: M204 P800.00 R1000.00 T800.00
echo:; Advanced (B<min_segment_time_us> S<min_feedrate> T<min_travel_feedrate> X<max_jerk> Y<max_jerk> Z<max_jerk> E<max_jerk>):
echo: M205 B20000.00 S0.00 T0.00 X10.00 Y10.00 Z0.40 E5.00
echo:; Auto Bed Leveling:
echo: M420 S0 Z10.00 ; Leveling OFF
echo:; Material heatup parameters:
echo: M145 S0 H205.00 B60.00 F0
echo: M145 S1 H230.00 B80.00 F0
echo:; Hotend PID:
echo: M301 P19.47 I1.59 D59.40
echo:; Bed PID:
echo: M304 P690.34 I111.47 D1068.83
echo:; Z-Probe Offset:
echo: M851 X47.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 ; (mm)
echo:; Stepper driver current:
echo: M906 X730 Y730 Z850
echo: M906 T0 E730
echo:; Driver stepping mode:
echo: M569 S1 X Y Z
echo:; Filament load/unload:
echo: M603 L430.00 U435.00 ; (mm)
echo:; Filament runout sensor:
echo: M412 S1 D5.00 ; Sensor ON
ok P15 B3

ancient frost
#

right that sucks. but it uploaded the new firmware.. i though it always showed the version.

pulsar junco
#

i dont know if it matters but i dont have the bed attached to the body of the printer and i need to solder on a replacement bed thermistor and the extruder is dangling off due to the fire thing the other day so if theres issues thats probably why

ancient frost
#

echo:; Hotend PID:
echo: M301 P19.47 I1.59 D59.40 // CR-10 V2
#if ENABLED(PID_PARAMS_PER_HOTEND)
// Specify up to one value per hotend here, according to your setup.
// If there are fewer values, the last one applies to the remaining hotends.
#define DEFAULT_Kp_LIST { 19.47, 19.47 }
#define DEFAULT_Ki_LIST { 1.59, 1.59 }
#define DEFAULT_Kd_LIST { 59.40, 59.40 }
#else
#define DEFAULT_Kp 19.47
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.59
#define DEFAULT_Kd 59.40

#

its not showing the firmware version. <- thats what sucks.

pulsar junco
#

ohhhhhh

ancient frost
#

in principle M503 gives you all the settings you have done.

#

in a simple read me way. πŸ˜„

#

its also the way you can change your settings

pulsar junco
#

oh cool

ancient frost
#

for instance..

#

M92 E189; will set the new e-steps

pulsar junco
#

ohhhhh

#

coooool

ancient frost
#

once you figure out what your e-steps are

pulsar junco
#

yeah ill need the printer reassembled to that i think

ancient frost
#

E <- for extruder and 189 fictional number i used

pulsar junco
#

so whats next?

#

πŸ™‚

ancient frost
#

youll have to test axis, etc, but i would help if everything assembled.. then you make changes like invert stepper direction, in the firmware compile. reflash using sdcard.. and then you calibrate and tune your printer

pulsar junco
#

so the board is installed properly and everything?

ancient frost
#

until its assembled. i wouldnt do anything grandios πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

yeah thatll be a job for tomorrow morning i think XD

ancient frost
#

jup. the fact you connected to it without issue is a good sign πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

oh thank jebus

#

well ill give it a rest for tonight i think and ill pick it up first thing in the morning

ancient frost
#

you might want to click through the screen and see if the options are there

#

the fact that the screen says no printer connected is an error. its should be connected.

#

its kinda a bug.

#

also personal preference. use the sdport on the board instead of the screen. it doesnt always work correctly. but i never went after fixing it. since i ended up connecting a pi and doing everything over web interface. it might be fixed with some display firmware updates.

#

i ended up removing my entire display it was annoying after doing everything over the web interface.

pulsar junco
#

so at the mo the axis arent doing anything but that may be something ive not plugged back in

#

or its to do with no printer attached

ancient frost
#

over the screen?

pulsar junco
#

yeah the screen isnt moving the axis

ancient frost
#

did you home the printer first?

#

keep finger on power button

pulsar junco
#

nothing happened

#

ill leave it for now and take a proper look tomorrow

#

have a break XD

#

thank you so much for all your help and knowledge hirnspiel

ancient frost
#

try this in pronterface

#

G0 X10

#

oh.

pulsar junco
#

g0 X10
SENDING:G0 X10
ok P14 B3

ancient frost
#

did it do anything?

pulsar junco
#

not that i can see

#

:/

ancient frost
#

pronterface has controls as well.

#

it might be interfering at the moment with the display

#

then again. are the motors plugged in?

pulsar junco
#

im not sure

#

wait yes they are

ancient frost
#

we will have to take a look tomorrow. im also tired at the moment.

pulsar junco
#

Connecting...
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
echo:No SD card

#

yeah we'll call it a night

#

thx hirnspiel

#

❀️

ancient frost
#

do 1 more thing for me.

#

M122; enter

#

and copy and paste.

pulsar junco
#

m122
SENDING:M122
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
ok P15 B3

ancient frost
#

okay. ill have to look into the firmware again. and check you board.. can you take a picture of the boards MCU, i just need to make sure its the correct mcu and find out if TMC2209 are the correct steppers

#

disconnect and turn off the printer for now. we will take a look tomorrow evening.

pulsar junco
#

Can you see that okay?

ancient frost
#

no i need the numbers after the 103

#

the cable is exactly in the way kekw

pulsar junco
#

Better?

ancient frost
#

much thanks.

pulsar junco
#

no no

#

much thanks to you

#

for putting up with me

ancient frost
#

all good.

#

you had power to the control box right?

#

mains pwoer

pulsar junco
#

yup

#

i thought that too lol

ancient frost
#

interesting..

#

can you check the wiring.. according to my research the firmware is configured correctly.

pulsar junco
#

what am i looking for?

ancient frost
#

loose connection. check if the wiring is correct. sometimes the wire is exactly inverted from the plug itself.

#

youll have to look at the connections themselves from the schematic.

pulsar junco
#

I'm going to try something real quick

#

famous last words

ancient frost
#

okay.

pulsar junco
#

I've plugged these two back in

#

They power this section

ancient frost
#

okay.

#

M122;

pulsar junco
#

I've not got it next to my pc anymore πŸ˜…

#

Oops

ancient frost
#

no worries. will do it tomorrow.

#

im tired anyways. πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
#

Same problem as before though hotend gets super hot

#

Lol same

ancient frost
#

you mean its runnig?

#

the hotend?

pulsar junco
#

Yeah after those two wires get plugged in

ancient frost
#

thats not good.

pulsar junco
#

The black wire has a red line on it

ancient frost
#

im not sure. i ended up replacing my hotend.

#

anyways we will figure it out tomorrow.

pulsar junco
#

Yeah night dude

ancient frost
#

u 2. get some rest. πŸ™‚

#

il be back around 19:00 austria time.

#

its now 23:21 so you can figure out when to hit me up πŸ™‚

pulsar junco
#

yeah im UK so hour behind πŸ™‚

ancient frost
#

oh, thats nice. tell we will talk tomorrow evening.

pulsar junco
#

πŸ‘

ancient frost
#

night πŸ˜„

pulsar junco
# ancient frost night πŸ˜„

Hey hirnspiel, sorry about not getting back to this ive had something come up that's going to take up like a couple days if you're still okay helping me I should be able to continue in a day or two πŸ™‚

ancient frost
pulsar junco
#

@ancient frost hey hirn sorry i took so long getting back to this πŸ™‚ if you're still available some time I'd really really appreciate your help continuing πŸ™‚ if you have time of course

ancient frost
#

@pulsar junco sure give me a day or so. currently stuck in bed with the flu, if i feel a little better ill help out. might be later today.

pulsar junco
#

No rush I'm also kicking some illness too πŸ˜‚

ancient frost
#

@pulsar junco hey did you get a chance to play around with your install? do you still need help?

pulsar junco
#

I've not had time yet been veryy busy but from what I have done on my own my axis motors still seem to not work and I'm having that heating problem where the extruder just gets extremely hot on its own

pulsar junco
#

From what I've dug up online these wires are the 24v for the extruder

#

So somethings obviously being overloaded and causing that heat issue

#

Wether I need to change that 24v to 12v I don't know

ancient frost
#

can you remember what the issue with the motors was? just that they where not moving or they where stuttering?

#

as for the hotend.. youll have to look that up and see if thats a 12V or 24V hotend. thats important.

pulsar junco
#

They weren't working at all

ancient frost
#

yeah which is really odd. are they even receiving any power? do you have a multimeter?

pulsar junco
#

I do not, it could be something I've plugged in wrong though so might need some more tinkering

ancient frost
#

i would really suggest getting a multimeter just to be safe. they are not expensive and totally worth it to have around even if you only use it once a year..