#Ender 3 Max print head too high.

144 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

scenic otter
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This is my print head when adjusted with the knobs and auto home

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And here it is mid print

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@limber forge

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I can take more pictures if you would like aswell.

limber forge
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that might be an issue with your slicer settings actually

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what's your z offset in the slicer set to?

scenic otter
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I don't know how to check, I'm using Creality Slicer. Should I use something else?

limber forge
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use cura

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the creality slicer is basically just cura with some other stuff that creality put in there

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but basic cura gets faster updates and has less issues so just stick with that

scenic otter
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Alright, great. Do slicers just make 3d models into instructions for the printer?

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Always wondered what they did

desert mango
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like when you home it the printer is a few cm too high?

limber forge
scenic otter
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Nope, it is right were a piece of paper can fit in.

limber forge
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and that part prints fine

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that's what makes me think its the slicer, because the offset changes in the gcode from where it prints the priming line to when it prints the part

scenic otter
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Alright, I've got cura installed. Where do I configure the offset?

limber forge
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just use cura's default ender 3 max profile and slice and print from there and see if it works

scenic otter
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Alright, and just this option aswell?

limber forge
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yeah save it to the micro sd card that came with the printer

scenic otter
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Dont see a clear "slice" option like creality 😅

limber forge
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what file did you put in there?

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it should be an stl file not a gcode file

scenic otter
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Oh, sorry I accidently put my old gcode in instead.

limber forge
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understandable lol

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i could tell because of the "no time estimation available"

scenic otter
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Yea, I was wondering if it just auto sliced. Well, brb lets see if it works!

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No dice, unfortunately.

limber forge
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about how far is it from the bed?

scenic otter
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I can measure if you would like.

limber forge
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did you level the whole bed? it looks kinda slanted compared to the gantry

scenic otter
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Yea, I did turn the bed by approximately the same amount of turns. I could try fully tightening it and doing a manual adjust on the printer it self?

limber forge
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walk me through how you leveled the bed, I think you might have missed some steps

scenic otter
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Sure.

So first step,I tighten all the knobs just until I feel resistance and then I stop.

Next, I place a piece of paper where the extruder would come down. Then I slowly tighten every single knob by the same amount of rotations until I'm happy with it barely touching the paper.

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The manual says scratching the paper, but I've found that low to also scratch up the bed

limber forge
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yeah you forgot the "repeat" step lol

that part's right, but you're supposed to do that, then move the nozzle to another part of the bed, and do it again

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so start at the homing corner, move just that leveling knob till you feel resistance on the paper, then move it to another corner, then move that leveling knob, then the next corner, and so on

scenic otter
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Ahhhhhh, I see.

limber forge
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then after that go back around just to check everything

tranquil wind
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@scenic otter check your start script there is a high chance that your auto bed level is off it you have one

limber forge
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since usually when you move one knob it'll mess with the height of the other knobs too

scenic otter
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Just open my gcode file?

tranquil wind
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do you have autobedlevel?

limber forge
limber forge
scenic otter
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Oh alright, thanks anyways.

limber forge
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_EfWVUJjBdA here's a vid on how to level it

Chuck shows you an Easy Way To Level Your Bed on Creality Ender 3 (or any similar size 3D printer). He uses two GCode files: the first to position the nozzle above the adjustment screws and the second is a test print for live adjusting of the bed. When this is completed your printer is ready to print.

*************. Updated 12/20/2022. *******...

â–¶ Play video
tranquil wind
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okay then forget what i said

limber forge
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he also uses a gcode file to facilitate the movement (you could use it, but its not necessary), you can go into the control menu, go to move axis, move 10mm, and just move it around through that

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the e3 max has a 300x300mm print bed, so that's around where you should put it to go to each corner

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the autohome corner is 0, 0, close right is 300, 0, far right is 300, 300, and far left is 0, 300

scenic otter
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Alright thanks alot for the vid! I'll level and check back.

scenic otter
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QQ: after playing with it for a while I keep running into an issue of my left side being perfectly fine but my right side has wayyy to much of a gap to use the adjustment knobs

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Ive tried moving around the z switch, but then the issue seems to reverse

scenic otter
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Hey still having issues w this, anyone got an idea ? ^

desert mango
scenic otter
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Added the equal amount to each side, and tightened the ones that needed it

desert mango
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it would just be bad if over time it deformed but i dont think its under that much pressure

scenic otter
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Yea, I got it decently leveled. Now I just have issues with some squiggly lines so I'm fine tuning it

scenic otter
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Hey @desert mango , I think I got it decently level. I keep running into these wavy lines printed tho, causing some lines to be fat and get caught when the printer comes back around. What should I do?

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Spent 2 hours making this, 2 days leveling it 😭😭😭

limber forge
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its likely just slightly too close

scenic otter
limber forge
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that is really unusual

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it might be a partial clog

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I've never seen that before

scenic otter
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Mabye? I've had it run for a couple seconds when the printer bed was too high so it was just extruding.

Anyway to get the gunk out?

limber forge
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there should be a thing that came with the printer for it

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its a thin metal rod that has a springy thing on one end and a foam block on the other to protect the tip

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the springy part is the handle, you just heat up the printer and shove the needle thing in the nozzle

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that should clear it

scenic otter
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Hm, myn didn't come with one. Would a thin needle and a piece of cloth do the trick?

limber forge
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it's a 0.4mm nozzle, the cloth wouldnt fit and I doubt you'd have a needle that thin (if you happen to have one though its worth a shot)

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the needle thing should look like that if you have it

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if you wanna double check if its a partial clog though just run some filament through the nozzle without printing and see if it just goes straight down or if it starts to curl really close to the nozzle

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a little curling is okay but if its just balling up by the nozzle it's probably clogged

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shitty image but that's what it looks like when its a clog

scenic otter
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Weird, let me send you what my head looks like.

desert mango
scenic otter
desert mango
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night

limber forge
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extrude some filament

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and see if it curls up

wide sinew
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Download this and make sure you bed is level

scenic otter
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Yea, quick update. Cleaned it out, and everything seems near to level.

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I keep getting this curls during turns though, and it causes the head to hit them when it round back, ruining the print. Any fix?

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Bed heats 60C, extruder is 205

tranquil wind
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Try 65 and preheat the bed. The temp drops pretty hard the further you get away

mint rock
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Try when leveling your bed, raise it higher, also try powering the stop button for the extruder

scenic otter
tranquil wind
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Good luck

scenic otter
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the first couple layers go well, and then it kinda moves the printed part and ruins the rest of the print.

scenic otter
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Still getting these weird hangs on certain corners. Beds at 65c, and extruder at 205.

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Should I try raising/lowering these corners?

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Seems to me the extruder is a little to far from the bed, and causes poor adhesion at the turns

wind wren
scenic otter
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I can wipe it down with some alcohol

wind wren
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Glass?

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That looks like glass

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Clean it with soap and warm water under your sink

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Isopropyl alcohol will remove any coating from the factory that helps it stick, also it'll just smudge around any oils from your fingers or anything else so it's good to clean it with water

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And soap

scenic otter
scenic otter
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I'll report back if this issues solves itself, it seems to get better with each minor tweak

scenic otter
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Ok, last issue

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It seems there are circles in the top left corner of this print

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Is the nozzle too close and just crushing the printed filament?

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Heres a cleaner corner

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Guessing to make the bed go more down on that side should fix it?

limber forge
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that has to do with your linear advance settings more likely

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or acceleration

scenic otter
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Finished a bench, and gettin these weird rough lines. Guess I need to sand it?

limber forge
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Linear advance is a firmware feature that controls the timing of the extruder separate to the other axes, with a focus on managing pressure inside the nozzle. The result should be more consistent extrusion, especially around corners and other changes of direction. You should also be able to print faster without the quality dropping off so much.
...

â–¶ Play video
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that's a video on how to fix it, and the square on the left are the weird corners I was talking about

scenic otter
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Oh I see. Would this have caused the weird benchy stuff I was getting?

limber forge
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no thats something else