abstract bobcat
I’m preparing my printer for my first test print (literally my first ever) and doing a manual level test before allowing the printer to auto level.
I’m using a sticky note and I’m finding that to get any friction contact at all I have to raise the levelers almost all the way - one actually fell off. Also the bed is a bit wobbly so I’m sure I need to tighten that up some.
Is this normal or is my paper too thin?
Btw, I heated the bed up to 60 for the test.
stiff vault
I’m preparing my printer for my first test print (literally my first ever) and d...
Ok so to level the bed you wanna tighten the springs
Not a ton
Just a bit
And then you are gonna want to get a piece of paper
And then tighten the springs
Till the nozzle is almost touching the paper
Then do that for all the sides
And then do this again but do it where the nozzle has slight friction
Thus should work
Then do the auto level
And then you will be good
:) if you need help with anything else we are always here
@abstract bobcat
So first ever printer? What made you wanna start printing?
abstract bobcat
Yes, first printer. I buy, repair and sell preowned fitness machines as a side hustle. Many times there are small plastic parts that are missing or broken (mostly cosmetic, battery covers, elliptical arm covers, etc) and I've thought, it would be great to be able to print those parts vs having to pay crazy money to buy them. I'm also building my 2nd VPin (virtual pinball machine) and there are several parts that can be printed.
About the leveling. I did just that - manual leveled as you described and then did the auto level. My main concern is that in order to pass the paper test on the manual level, the leveler knobs are at 99% max height. Raising the bed any further makes the knobs fall off.
Maybe the tolerances for this printer call for a thicker sheet of paper. Maybe an index card instead of a sticky note. I'm asking.
abstract bobcat
Not a ton
"not a ton", "just a bit". No, on my printer (an "open box" refurb from ebay that appears to be in nearly new condition but for some small spots on the build plate and a dirty nozzle) in order to get the paper "almost touching the paper", I had to raise the bed almost all the way up, so much that one leveler knob fell completely off. So I think there maybe is some details here I'm missing. First, the paper I'm using is a super thin sticky note. When you say "paper" are you referring to sticky note paper thin or index card paper thin?
Also, perhaps the Ender 3 S1 Pro is different than other printers with respect to the default bed position relative to the adjustment knobs. Do you have an S1 Pro?
It could be the I may need to completely reset the printer. Maybe the previous owner (it is a refurb after all), reset the leveler settings so much that the printer thinks the bed needs to be at max height and thus the leveler knobs are maxed?
twilit plinth
@abstract bobcat you need to change the z offset in order for the leveling to be correct
abstract bobcat
To 0?
twilit plinth
no
check the actual value
the more negative the value is, the lower the nozzle will go
abstract bobcat
What should the z index be set from factory?
twilit plinth
varies from printer to printer
abstract bobcat
For the S1 Pro it varies from one to another?
From the factory?
I’m a noob at this so please understand. I know nothing but that makes no sense.
twilit plinth
no problem
its not printer related per se, its a value that changes coz of, warped bed, different bed, spring compresion spring type
give mecouple minutes and ill guide you
have to go out+
abstract bobcat
I didn’t do any z axis changes but this is the current value? 0.05
Just testing that up down control it appears that it represents the bed but if I’m not seeing things wrong it’s actually moving the print head up and down.
vapid cobalt
@abstract bobcat that's correct
That's for your z offset do you can have your nozzle closer or further to your bed
!level
unique frigateBOT
vapid cobalt
Have a look at that diagram
abstract bobcat
I think my issue is that I need to get the default bed level back to how it was set from the factory. Since this is a refurb, apparently its way out of wack in terms of that. So what I have done then it to tighten the adjustment knobs ALL THE WAY until they stop. Then I've backed off each one by the same amount (1.5 full turns) in order to get the bed to a good index point for leveling without fear that the adjustment knobs are going to fall off.
Once I have the bed level back to some good middle ground where the adjustment knobs are about in the middle of their throw distance, I can then commence the leveling procedure.
stiff vault
Ello
abstract bobcat
I don't know if 1.5 turns from stop is the right distance or not. I suppose I need to go back to full stop and measure how many turns until the knob falls off and then divide that by 2
stiff vault
So you got it sorted now?
abstract bobcat
I think I'm on track. The main thing I'm trying to do now is get the default bed position somewhere close to the middle of the throw distance of the adjustment knobs. It was way too high when I received it as a refurb
stiff vault
That's what I was saying
abstract bobcat
try to compress the springs half way
Yes, that's essentially what I'm shooting for
Also, the bed is a bit wobbly
I think i need to fix that first
twilit plinth
then use a gcode that move the toolhead over each sprint to level thebed
abstract bobcat
The S1 Pro has an "aux level" wizard that appears to move the head to the 5 points automatically to allow for manual adjustment
That's what I'm using (vs g code?)
twilit plinth
ohok
abstract bobcat
This
abstract bobcat
I just need to get the bed more of less in the middle of the full throw distance now to start. And also get rid of the bed wobble
stiff vault
I mean not so trusty until you spend £100 on upgrades
But after that you good
(maybe)
abstract bobcat
This looks to be an amazing printer once its calibrated. Being a refurb apparently got it out of sorts
Got a deal on it so no complaining
$350
twilit plinth
yeah it is
abstract bobcat
Ok. I believe I have it dialed in now
I fixed the table wobble by tightening down the two nuts under the bed. Next I tightened the four bed leveling nuts down all the way and put a white mark on all four wheels where they line up with at the corners.
Then I unscrewed one of the knobs until it came off and counted 8 full turns.
So I set 4 turns as the midway point for the bed
And adjusted all 4 knobs to that point
And then set the z axis based on that level and it came out to be -2.85 (versus 0.05 from where it was previously)
abstract bobcat
Hot damn! My first print!
Actually this is my first “finished” print. The first attempt I had to stop because of this. It started making spaghetti
I think my z axis was set too high so I did a manual adjustment to move it down closer to the surface until the paper was more snug and it printed without making spaghetti then on the second attempt.
I was reluctant to get it too tight against the paper because I’d seen a video where a guy ended up with a permanent imprint on his bed due to the nozzle being too low (at least that’s what he said caused it, idk)
twilit plinth
pei sheets are actually really strong
abstract bobcat
Ok. I got one good print then when I tried same print a second time after minor z axis adjustment nothing sticks to the center of the bed.
I have the paper test perfect on all four corners and center. Every time I try to print this coin it prints the line on the left fine (or close to fine with the first centimeter not sticking) then I just get spaghetti on the nozzle when it tries to draw the circle around the coin
I’ve now replaced the nozzle with the new one spare that came with the printer. They actually look different at the tip?
This is the “old” one I’m holding. The tip is contoured and not the same as the new spare
Could it be this pei sheet is bad? Should I try the other side with tape or glue stick or try hairspray on the pei side?
twilit plinth
no, you just clean the pei sheet with alcohol
when changing the nozzle you dont need to remove the block too
you are risking to break the heating cartridge and thermistor cables
abstract bobcat
Or hairspray on the smooth side? I’m kinda at a loss why I got one good print then nothing.
twilit plinth
thats 3dprinting
twilit plinth
make sure what when it starts printing the nozzle is clean
once it finishes the first layer you can stop checking it
should go goog
good
abstract bobcat
thats 3dprinting
I can’t get a first layer. Just spaghetti on the nozzle
twilit plinth
if you can make a video we can figure it out faster
abstract bobcat
It does lay down a decent line on the left edge tho
Ok. I’ll make a video now. One moment
twilit plinth
i see
abstract bobcat
First still shots are my setup. Video shows print start after 2 min warmup
twilit plinth
ok what material are you printing?
and what temps
did you clean the bed with alcohol?=
pei sheets loose the adhesion with the grease that skin releases
and also dust
abstract bobcat
I’ve cleaned it with 99% ipa. I’m just using the stock print from the sd card and the stock default pla profile. It’s 60C for the bed and 200 for the nozzle. The pla is the stock ender sample roll.
twilit plinth
ok, try to use this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3462650/files
you have to slice it
abstract bobcat
I super appreciate your help but I really bought this printer because it was supposed to be out of the box print ready. I’m starting to doubt my decision and maybe I’ll give it a few more tries but maybe I just got a refurb lemon.
Or this PEI sheet is just toast
cHEp YouTube guy said his was terrible out of the box
twilit plinth
Well, most ender 3/3pro/v2/s1/s1pro have to be calibrated prior, even other brands.
abstract bobcat
I did the calibration and got one good print. But now nothing sticks.
twilit plinth
try the leveling disks, it is mostly something related to the z offset
the leveling sensor changes that value some times
its something odd with marlin not the printer
abstract bobcat
Ok. I’ll try that as soon as I get slicer software set up. I’m going to do one more print but turn the pei sheet rotated 180
To see if it prints differently.
abstract bobcat
I’m not sure about first layer speed. Can I tell that in the printer setup screen outside of slicer software?
Here are the default motion settings for the printer.
abstract bobcat
OK, I'll decide tomorrow about if I'm keeping the printer or not then I'll check the slicer settings. My concern is that it should at least print the default prints on the SD card.
One thing I'm seeing though is that once I clean the nozzle and then hit start to begin a print. The nozzle stays clean until the temp gets to around 190C and then the filament starts to seep out, by time the temp gets to 200C and the print head starts to lay down its registration line, the filament has already seeped out about 10-15mm and once the print head goes down to the bed, that seepage is clogging up the nozzle tip and otherwise dragging across the print line.
Should the filament seep out at all if it hasn't been extruded?
twilit plinth
yes thats a normal issue with printers in general, some materials like petg are more prone to stick to the nozzle due to electrostatic stuff
some people use silicone socks on the block to avoid this from happening or using a different material nozzle
like copperplated
or stainless steel
Pretty much all the things you been thought have happened to all people here at least one, being bed leveling and z offset the most common issue
plain schooner
Also with petg on that pei sheet should stick really well a little to well u may need to use hairspray as a release agent.
twilit plinth
yo can let it cool down to 40
plain schooner
I still think you should do a pid tune and try another filament like you said this is a refurbished printer so who knows how long that pla "sample" has been exposed to moisture and uv can cause a ton of printing issues.
abstract bobcat
I’ve already packed the printer back up and it’s on its way to USPS. The filament sample was in a vacuum packed bag. It appeared to be factory sealed.
cold flint
Ah
Well rip
But I think I knew your problem
Your rear left spring was too low, and not only that it didn't even bed level, even though it has ABL
plain schooner
Yeah its ebay and refurbished so not much trust in fresh vacuum sealed and likely needed pid tune with pla getting roasted at 190. But good luck
abstract bobcat
Your rear left spring was too low, and not only that it didn't even bed level, e...
I actually marked a registration line on each leveler knob and counted revs to completely remove them from home at 8. Then reset each to 4 revs from home. then did auto level and z correction
Based on what i observed, problem appeared to be pei sheet was bad
cold flint
doesnt look like it to me, when it lifts like that usually means either Z offset is too high or bed is warped
but yeah, regarding your comment earlier
3d printing isnt something you can do out the box
its constantly tinkering and researching, its basically a constant project
plain schooner
half aurora
Based on what i observed, problem appeared to be pei sheet was bad
Did you ever scuff the pei
you never really acknowledged my suggestion
but.. probably would have helped immensely
abstract bobcat
No. Didn’t have any scotch Brite.
The Prusa is not returnable so if there’s a similar issue, I’ll remember your suggestion.
I’ve heard sandpaper also works. I didn’t want to do that to a returnable printer.
It could be grounds for eBay forbidding the return.
half aurora
you could have just addressed it and i would have given you alternatives. but yea.. brand new pei is not very suitable for printing on in my experience.
