lone dragon
hi everyone, i’m trying to set up a 0.8mm nozzle for my printer asap but i’m running into a couple problems. right now, this is what my cube looks like (attached photo) and also the ring of filament that prints around the first layer doesn’t completely print and stops at 98ish% of the way, moving onto another ring and dragging the previous filament with it
in this photo, the ring starts printing on the bottom right, but as it approaches the bottom left after a lap, it doesn’t complete the ring and starts printing the next ring inside
i’m going through all the calibration steps but i’m still confused as to why it would stop short of printing the whole circle
lone dragon
this is just to clarify what i mean; the outer ring doesn’t get completed and gets dragged into the actual print layer
lone dragon
please why does it look like this @ 195 C when that’s my normal temperature at 0.4mm 💀💀💀
can anyone provide some insight on how to set up a larger diameter nozzle? all the relevant videos are just ones that detail the benefits of larger nozzles, they don't explain at all how to properly calibrate your printer for the larger nozzle
cloud finch
ok so i do print with 0.8
what slicer u using?
layer and first layer height?
have you done e steps before?
lone dragon
have you done e steps before?
yes, i actually just checked and i got it perfect 🥰
lone dragon
what slicer u using?
prusaslicer because ultimaker cura actually breaks my printer
lone dragon
layer and first layer height?
0.6mm and 0.6mm
lone dragon
what filament'?
polymaker polyterra
cloud finch
in this photo, the ring starts printing on the bottom right, but as it approache...
here looks like nozzle still a bit far from the first layer
try to use maybe 0.58
lone dragon
0.58 for the initial layer height?
cloud finch
this is just to clarify what i mean; the outer ring doesn’t get completed and ge...
and incomplete happens to me too altho i think i could change if you get the nozzle a bit closer
yeah
for the first layer
lone dragon
alright lemme try the vase print test for flow with all these in mind
also i reduced my flow to 0.9 because of how fat everything looked
cloud finch
please why does it look like this @ 195 C when that’s my normal temperature at 0...
yeah this looks weird tho
never happened to me before with 0.8 nozzlke
lone dragon
never happened to me before with 0.8 nozzlke
what are your flow settings like?
cloud finch
my flow is 1
you might wanna up your temp 3 to 5 degrees coz you are extruding wider
lone dragon
you might wanna up your temp 3 to 5 degrees coz you are extruding wider
isn't that going to make it worse and make it more stringy and wide
cloud finch
not really unless you already have high temperature
usually a wider nozzle
at the same speed is extruding more plastic
lone dragon
sorry i couldn’t get it to focus but this is still what happens
cloud finch
yeah well you might want to keep the nozzle clean before it starts
lone dragon
it stops just short of finishing the loop and idk why
cloud finch
its ok the first loop always fail, so far havent been able to fix it but i think is somthing on the starting gcode
cloud finch
let me try 230c
oof thats waay too hot
lone dragon
oof thats waay too hot
yeah idk nothing i'm trying is working, the only setting that actually does anything is z probe offset but that doesn't really affect my current problem
what printer do you use?
cloud finch
ender 3
lone dragon
what slicer? maybe you can send me your config and i can try to make it work
lone dragon
perfect thanks
lone dragon
yeah
just for this test tho
i just want to get this up and running because i need to do a big print asap
and 0.4mm isn't doing it fast enough
lone dragon
you can try this
i'm just loading it in, thanks! what temps?
lone dragon
hmmm oke
i mean
when i raised it to 230 it just made my filament look more lumpy
lower temp made my filament look smoother
cloud finch
well glad it worked
lone dragon
the only issue is that it looks like it's kinda sagging around the first couple layers kinda like elephants foot
and the corners are a bit rounded
yeah but like
almost perfect
cloud finch
maybe check for cold air in the room
lone dragon
see the bottom area is kinda like wider
it’s kinda hot in my city rn so i don’t think cold air is affecting it much
cloud finch
yeah
lone dragon
what fan speed should it be on the first couple lauers?
lone dragon
oke lemme try
can i adapt the same settings for printing non-vase
or do you have another config?
because my xyz calibration cube came out ✨ squishy ✨ @cloud finch
cloud finch
yeah you just disable vase mode
settings started for normal printing
just check the top and bottom layers
lone dragon
just check the top and bottom layers
bottom layer is like this
whole thing just kinda squishy in general
and nothing is sharp
cloud finch
non vasemode prints will loose quality by a lot with 0.8
same with the seam
it will look big
you would have to try different values of retractions
lone dragon
non vasemode prints will loose quality by a lot with 0.8
do you think it would be better with 0.6? i have a 0.6 nozzle
cloud finch
depends on what you want to print but probably 0.6 for normal printing would work better
cloud finch
yeah 0.8 will give you a hard time for that
cloud finch
bottom layer is like this
bottom always looks like that
altho your is a bit 2 close to the bed
lone dragon
ok gotcha
lone dragon
depends on what you want to print but probably 0.6 for normal printing would wor...
do you have any specific settings you change to suit different nozzle sizes?
heavy steppe
Looks too fast
didn't read whole thread though
you're going to have to slow down quite a bit when printing with a .8
lone dragon
you're going to have to slow down quite a bit when printing with a .8
gotcha, and do i slow down but not as much for 0.6?
heavy steppe
right
cloud finch
gotcha, and do i slow down but not as much for 0.6?
how did it go?
lone dragon
how did it go?
still printing good 😀
lone dragon
how did it go?
the only reason i think it’s doing well is because i turned down flow, is that bad?
cloud finch
not really but if you turned down flow then there was something wrong with e steps or the filament has inconsistent diameter or its diameter value is different in the slicer
lone dragon
oops never mind i didn't turn down flow actually so im happy :))
thanks @cloud finch !
dire swan
@lone dragon another thing to keep in mind is you'll need to print extremely slow since your pushing out near 2x as much filament as usual
Nvm puro already mentioned if
lone dragon
<@355856272807165954> another thing to keep in mind is you'll need to print extr...
thank you! i am printing slowly on my first layer for sure but hopefully i can bump it up on the next layers!
dire swan
I wouldn't bump it too much
lone dragon
I wouldn't bump it too much
i was printing fine with the settings that trainingmatador gave me but i slowed it down for the first layer to help with adhesion
unless that is too fast. it was working for me even without the slow first layer for my previous print
lone dragon
do you think speed can cause overextrusion on solid infill only?
dire swan
It'll cause cooling issues
lone dragon
like everything is printing fine but the solid infill
cloud finch
yeah on stock hotend using a bigger nozzle you will have extrusion issues at that speed
lone dragon
gotcha time to turn it down !
lone dragon
@cloud finch everything is ok but i’m getting overextrusion on solid infill after first layer
everything that is solid infill after first layer is horribly overextruded, the smaller the solid infill the worse it is
i’ve slowed down solid infill to 10 mm/s and it’s still like this so i’m beginning to think that it’s not a speed issue
cloud finch
what nozzle size?
the first layer usually has some gaps due to the nature of using bigger nozzles
the closer they are to the bed the worse
the prusaslicer config i sent you took me about 1 month to get right
lone dragon
the prusaslicer config i sent you took me about 1 month to get right
damn yeah i'm just working through your file too kinda
i'm still using 0.6
waxen light
@lone dragon also aside from the other stff the guys reccomended - get some better cooling
If you've got a itch to start printing big some things you should invest in are good fans and a better hotend
waxen light
the closer they are to the bed the worse
I'd argue against that, I've found the sweet spot for .8 is .32 then honestly most layer heights work the same
For example when I'm printing TPU I do .2 layer height on .8 nozzles
languid elk
I'd argue against that, I've found the sweet spot for .8 is .32 then honestly mo...
Have a pic of the first layer?
waxen light
Not at the moment, but this is on a .8 nozzle with a stock basic tune, no actual effort put in whatsoever
languid elk
First layer with Petg on .8 either fails or looks terrible if is les than 0.6
waxen light
waxen light
First layer with Petg on .8 either fails or looks terrible if is les than 0.6
Sounds like bad settings to me
Those are mine
And that's on .8 nozzle
languid elk
Not what i mean
waxen light
Not what i mean
Wait hold on you may be in luck
Only one I have
Not the best quality but you can see it looks pretty damn good
waxen light
Yeah this is brand new makers warehouse 95a tpu
languid elk
Yeah that explains
I dont use tpu or pla
I use petg
But i think can be humidity related
languid elk
Petg shouldnt be cooled down on first layer
waxen light
Those fans I've got there are modded and have a shitload of static pressure
Not relating to first layer
But in general
Look at this
languid elk
Yeah, no my issue is just the first layer
waxen light
That's a 81 degree overhang on .8 nozzle
waxen light
Yeah, no my issue is just the first layer
Try clean bed
Soapy water and microfibre cloth
languid elk
On the inside
waxen light
Yes
I'm serious
Bead cleanliness massively affects prints
It's hilarious
And also
My rule for first layers is not to have it bigger than 1/3 of the nozzle diamater
And never have following layers higher than 3/4 of nozzle diamater
Also, this applies to petg especially
Print first layer slow perimeters with very high Accel, and have it print hotter than usual
I print petg at 235 first layer, then 220 for following layers
waxen light
On bed I run 70 degrees first layer then 65 next
languid elk
I have no issues with perimeters just the inner look of the solid infill
waxen light
That actually looks like bad filament
languid elk
Yeah
waxen light
And possibly a touch of overextrusion
waxen light
You got ABL?
cloud finch
yeah, printer is in pretty good shape
lone dragon
you see
waxen light
If so, try increasing/decreasing mechanical z offset so you get less squish
lone dragon
i
am on a time crunch
i print bigger nozzle because i won’t make deadline with 0.6 or 0.4 (i changed to 0.8 midnight last night)
i made peace with elephants foot
and i’m just going to do a lot of post
waxen light
3d printing takes time, that's just part of the whole jig, if you want to print something quick use a .6 on a profile you know and just bump up the acceleration
You will get much faster print speeds
lone dragon
3d printing takes time, that's just part of the whole jig, if you want to print ...
i gotcha on that
waxen light
I've brough a benchy down from 3 hours on a .4 to 1h on .6 and twice the accel
cloud finch
i print bigger nozzle because i won’t make deadline with 0.6 or 0.4 (i changed t...
you might wanna use 0.6 and get prusaslicer 2.5.0 alpha, they have the new algorithm on it
waxen light
And I didn't lose much detail
lone dragon
you might wanna use 0.6 and get prusaslicer 2.5.0 alpha, they have the new algor...
using 0.8 on the alpha rn
everything is ok fingers crossed
waxen light
you might wanna use 0.6 and get prusaslicer 2.5.0 alpha, they have the new algor...
Superslicer also works VERY well rn
lone dragon
basically i need this print done for a cosplay
cloud finch
using 0.8 on the alpha rn
have you tried changing the algorithm?
lone dragon
for a convention this week
lone dragon
have you tried changing the algorithm?
arachne is default
cloud finch
ok
lone dragon
but yeah let me
get out of bed
and get a picture
i lowkey had a nightmare
that someone cut the power to my printer
cloud finch
If so, try increasing/decreasing mechanical z offset so you get less squish
that would defear the whole point of using the 1/3 of diameter you said
waxen light
that would defear the whole point of using the 1/3 of diameter you said
No no
waxen light
I'm talking about actual physical z offset
How far it starts up before even taking account the layer heights
Too much squish is a typical characteristic if physical z offset being too close to bed
cloud finch
yeah but again that would defeat the point of using the 1/3 of diameter, coz your offset is different than other printers
waxen light
You want to aim as close to 0 as possible (when nozzle is at 0mm it's barely touching the bed)
waxen light
yeah but again that would defeat the point of using the 1/3 of diameter, coz you...
Nope, it's something you've got to see to visualise
Because the layers will physically be different sizes than that .32 layer height ect
Think of it this way
If your nozzle is .1mm low at 0mm on the prunter
At 0.32 layer height the first layer will be extruding 0.32mm layer height worth of plastic at an actual layer height of 0.22mm
And vice versa if it's too high
lone dragon
that makes sense
what that doesn’t explain is why even if i have a good first layer second layer seems to be always squished
only second, sometimes third layer
then it gets better on the subsequent layers
i haven’t seen it so far on the 0.8mm but it was a consistent problem for 0.6mm and 0.4mm
languid elk
At 0.32 layer height the first layer will be extruding 0.32mm layer height worth...
You can archieve the same by changing the layer height on the slicer
lone dragon
<@485891613130883072> everything is ok but i’m getting overextrusion on solid in...
picture for reference
waxen light
what that doesn’t explain is why even if i have a good first layer second layer ...
Overextrusion
Reduce flow rate
And increase overlap slightly
Those lines that kind of wrap over each other is a dead giveaway that there's too much plastic being extruded
Look here at mine
This is slightly under extruded
This is perfect
Notice how yours has the lines wrapping each other in a way?
lone dragon
And increase overlap slightly
i thought it would make sense to reduce overlap
and by overlap you mean the infill/perimeter setting?
waxen light
Overlap doesnt affect the dista ce between the lines
It affects the overlap between the Infill and the wall
It gets rid of those gaps you see there
lone dragon
It gets rid of those gaps you see there
i’m not talking about the gaps, i’m talking about how overextruded the second layer looks
lone dragon
the gaps are intentional because i’m adjusting my z offset to see if it’s because printhead is too close to bed
waxen light
Increasing overlap will also help
lone dragon
ahhh
waxen light
Just for a different thing
lone dragon
decreasing flow will help but will introduce more gaps
waxen light
Not as it is
waxen light
Ye
waxen light
Right now your overextruding, so having the flow slightly reduce to get actual size
Then increasing overlap will get rid of any gaps you'll have afterwards if you do
lone dragon
Right now your overextruding, so having the flow slightly reduce to get actual s...
one more thing, does flow affect dimensional accuracy
waxen light
one more thing, does flow affect dimensional accuracy
Not on a small scale, but yes on a big scale
waxen light
Right now you will have a slightly bigger dimension if your overextruding since you generally just are printing more plasi
lone dragon
but if i was to tweak those settings for this print the print is pretty big
waxen light
This is why I love auperslicer
It has built in calibration tools
Took me 30 mins to do something that would take me weeks and possibly months to do on cura
lone dragon
see i’m still overextruding on the solid infill
lone dragon
at least it’s only on the inside
waxen light
Yeah
lone dragon
thanks
waxen light
If it was on the outside it would be a bigger problem is assume lol
