#Para's House. (Goodbye)
1 messages · Page 8 of 1
We got it for now I will follow guides as to not over tax y'all and will pester you when I think it's done
to update you disconnect
press firmware flasher on the left
detect the target with the detect button
make sure full chip erase is on and the rest of the toggles are off
select latest release
then under other options select the extra features you want like gps or something
remove the OSD(analog) or OSD(digital) depending on which you use if you want to
then load firmware online
and flash
So remove?
Any I should add?
whatever you want or need
IDk what I want or need 
well you can always reflash!
Got it
it's very easy to guide you through betaflight since you have any amount of reading comprehension and knowledge of how use computer
Is that sarcasm cuz I'm dumb 🥲
it's not
Lol kept the rest as defaults and flashing now
love linux to be honest
Same
no fucking around with drivers ever unless you buy something proprietary
I gotta switch to Linux
yup
close, then put the drone as flat as possible and press calibrate accelerometer like it says
Wait, how different is Kali Linux than normal Linux?
very
Figured
the whole deal with it is that it comes with all the toola
Cause I have a Kali Linux vm
Figured, it can though, it just sucks at it, I’ve watched vids and stuff via kali 😂
So next up is hookup remote and goggles?
next is configure betaflight fully
go to the ports tab
switch the serial rx switch on the uart you soldered the receiver to, under peripherals set msp + displayport on the uart you soldered the DJI vtx to
oh and set sensor input to gps on the uart you soldered the gps to
then save and reboot
and then on the configuration tab
change the max arm angle to 180 and make sure airmode, gps and osd are on
and then change whatever else you want on the tab
Opening drone one moment
damn
?
looks about right
Great the warning at top okay
and then there were more
presets tab
search elrs 250hz
apply it with proper options selected
The fuck is proper options lol
so hd freestyle, serial and single cell values
Done
motors tab
press motor direction is reversed
DSHOT300 and bidirectional dshot
save that
you have a quad x
OSD tab
make sure you have at minimum
link quality, rssi dbm, average cell voltage, warnings and flight time
and the gps options
pick whatever else you want as well
Oooh fun
and make sure it is set to HD in the top right
This gonna take a bit to make pretty
oh and set the rssi alarm to -98
So the three dots is for each profile right?
Sexy
this'd be my minimum config
do you have a chromium browser installed?
need it in a bit
because poor decisions from configurator dev team
and incomplete insecure web standards that any browser with standards refuses to implement
Not finding flight time
it might be called something else
doing this from memory
it's one of the timers
timer 1, 2, 3
that you can set on the right
did your esc have am32 or bluejay/blheli_s
Still fecking with osd
What
Done with osd
Ready to continue
whatever we'll find out
close betaflight configurator
open this in your chromium browser https://esc-configurator.com/
that you opened as sudo
since you didn't do the giving your user permissions thing
that's totally safe
What do here?
Complete
ESC 1: Q-H-30 - BLHeli_S, 16.7
whyyy
PWM frequency?
We're flashing now 😏
unplugs<
Thanks for telling this during the porocess
no problem
Completed
okay now this is really important
bottom right there's a tune editor
you have to pick one you like
melody editor
I don't see such a thing
reconnect and re-read then
you
close esc-configurator
open betaflight-configurator and go to the motors tab
probably have to replug as well
We are running out of daylight ahhh!
yeah almost done
In betaflight
motors tab
bottom right press the danger switch
make sure motors 1, 2, 3, 4 in the picture are also 1, 2, 3, 4 in real life
and make sure they spin the right way following the picture
One and three are rotating in the incorrect direction
🙂↕️
go back to esc-configurator
set motor 1 and 3 to reversed and write settings
then download expresslrs configurator
Completed
.
what receiver do you have
oh and you can unplug the battery now if the receiver is powered from just usb
BETAFPV Nano receiver is based on the ExpressLRS project, an open-source RC link for RC applications. ExpressLRS aims to achieve the best possible link performance in both speeds, latency, and range. This makes ExpressLRS one of the fastest RC links available while still offering long-range performance. Check out all o
Why?
small antenna
then make sure it is set to betaflight passthrough
ISM_2400 for regulatory domain
set a bind phrase which is basically a password
then just press flash
I don't see it 😦
🤏
What are the problems with a small antenna?
How large of a predicament is this?
did you close betaflight-configurator
We couldn't get Chromium to run as root 😦
should've just added your user to the permission groups lol
🙂↕️
replug it and manually select the com port
Do we need to open Betaflight on the Winblows PC?
no
only the elrs configurator
it says some other program is already using the serial port for betaflight
It has been resolved. Thank you
Next?
what transmitter do you have
?What?
Oh, the Xbox controller!

Boxer Crush

Completed
Now what?
go back
go to the hardware tab
scroll to the serial port settings
select USB-VCP and set it to CLI
then go back to the home screen
plug it into your computer with the top port
and select USB Serial(VCP)
then do the same thing as you did with the receiver with the same bindprhase
but radiomaster boxer and edgetx passthrough
Which Radiomaster is it?
Is this correct?
well you'll find out when you press flash
😦
epic what does it say at the bottom
select it manually again i suppose
says its in use again
really feels like a winblows moment
======== PASSTHROUGH INIT ========
Trying to initialize COM4 @ 460800
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "runpy.py", line 196, in _run_module_as_main
File "runpy.py", line 86, in _run_code
File "C:\Users\elija\AppData\Roaming\ExpressLRS Configurator\firmwares\cloud\ExpressLRS\2dd88468a753696a37e6954ab80a0dcd231e2afa\firmware\flasher.pyz_main_.py", line 3, in <module>
if __name__ == '__main__':
File "C:\Users\elija\AppData\Roaming\ExpressLRS Configurator\firmwares\cloud\ExpressLRS\2dd88468a753696a37e6954ab80a0dcd231e2afa\firmware\flasher.pyz_bootstrap_init_.py", line 253, in bootstrap
File "C:\Users\elija\AppData\Roaming\ExpressLRS Configurator\firmwares\cloud\ExpressLRS\2dd88468a753696a37e6954ab80a0dcd231e2afa\firmware\flasher.pyz_bootstrap_init_.py", line 38, in run
File "C:\Users\elija.shiv\flasher.pyz_66ff8061e3e3a2d5f68ea933881a435c770c3e2037daeda068da93c2eafab3b3\site-packages\binary_configurator.py", line 437, in main
return binary_flash.upload(options, args)
File "C:\Users\elija.shiv\flasher.pyz_66ff8061e3e3a2d5f68ea933881a435c770c3e2037daeda068da93c2eafab3b3\site-packages\binary_flash.py", line 193, in upload
return upload_esp32_etx(args)
File "C:\Users\elija.shiv\flasher.pyz_66ff8061e3e3a2d5f68ea933881a435c770c3e2037daeda068da93c2eafab3b3\site-packages\binary_flash.py", line 119, in upload_esp32_etx
ETXinitPassthrough.etx_passthrough_init(args.port, args.baud)
File "C:\Users\elija.shiv\flasher.pyz_66ff8061e3e3a2d5f68ea933881a435c770c3e2037daeda068da93c2eafab3b3\site-packages\ETXinitPassthrough.py", line 17, in etx_passthrough_init
s = serial.Serial(port=port, baudrate=requestedBaudrate,
File "C:\Users\elija.shiv\flasher.pyz_66ff8061e3e3a2d5f68ea933881a435c770c3e2037daeda068da93c2eafab3b3\site-packages\serial\serialwin32.py", line 33, in init
super(Serial, self).init(*args, **kwargs)
File "C:\Users\elija.shiv\flasher.pyz_66ff8061e3e3a2d5f68ea933881a435c770c3e2037daeda068da93c2eafab3b3\site-packages\serial\serialutil.py", line 244, in init
self.open()
File "C:\Users\elija.shiv\flasher.pyz_66ff8061e3e3a2d5f68ea933881a435c770c3e2037daeda068da93c2eafab3b3\site-packages\serial\serialwin32.py", line 64, in open
raise SerialException("could not open port {!r}: {!r}".format(self.portstr, ctypes.WinError()))
serial.serialutil.SerialException: could not open port 'COM4': FileNotFoundError(2, 'The system cannot find the file specified.', None, 2)
HELP
trying agian back on the linux
said no fc found
the feck
bro does NOT know how to use backticks
💀
crying mannn
right so this time
you did open it with sudo or give your user perms
and you did select USB(VCP)
did not work with sudo
and for this?
did that right
oh well
just select wifi instead of edgetxpassthrough
and press build instead, make sure your settings are there
what will that do?
same results tho?
yeah
once it's done building
unplug your radio
hold SYS again
open the ELRS script again
scroll to wifi and enable it
connect to the wifi ap it made
password expresslrs
go to http://10.0.0.1
update tab
upload the firmware file it made
and press update
okay betaflight time
go to receiver tab
check if the throttle is the throttle
the yaw is the yaw
oh and set elrs to 250hz in here
beta flight not connecting to remote
are we betaflighting the radio rn?
i don't think your radio flies
your flight controller runs betaflight
your receiver and transmit module run expresslrs
your esc runs bluejay
and your transmitter runs edgetx
it worked!
dont see this step where?
the elrs lua script on your transmitter
so when you click add range on one of the modes (like arm) you flip the switch you want to assign to that on your radio
it'll then have a little yellow dot
whenever the yellow dot is under the big yellow bar
the mode will be activated
now i recommend to have at minimum
arm and flip over after crash
beeperon
air mode
gps rescue
dont see air mode
make sure hide unused modes isn't on
and maybe you have to disable permanent airmode on the configuration tab
make sure the default with your switch is that it is on though
done
now what
okay go fly
its night
send picture of setup tab
go into gps tab and turn off the thing that wont let you arm without gps lock
wait no
failsafe tab
allow arming without fix off
well did you arm it
you using prearm?
fixed now
lol
no clue how dji works
try this or something
probably want to update them as well
okay don't switchj to o3
just follow the other steps
lol
does headseat need to bind to remote
i dont think the o4 is recieving power
is it not suposed to steal power from the fc?
it only lights up when we hook it up with the usbc port
God i hope its not broken
this plug but the o4 isnt lighting up
and now the tx wire on his reciever which is red for some reason fell off
o4 is a plug
is there a 10v solder bridge
i cant find one
o4 gets light with usbc
what fc is it
yes which of the 5
very simple little fc
i dont like how skystars does their pad layouts
hey, my battery straps go under my top plate and on top of my fc. i've been getting pretty high core temps and im worried this might be what's causing it. is there something I should do differently to fix this?
or is there not really an alternative
🍪
id say we do this
he said he doesnt to me lol
does the bec get hot?
are u talking to me?
yes
fly faster
and im worried it's because battery straps go over fc
it's usually when im on the ground configuring o4 settings
how hot
literally zero clue what that is
gimme a sec
184 is 85c
85-100 c
can you show a picture
yeah my lazy ass would just see if powering the o4 off of vbat fixes it
it's just really worrying that usb powers it
normally that's not possible
mine def doesn’t power on over usb
just turns the LED on
mine doesn’t
well yes but it shouldn't be getting 5v on the 10v pin
unless it has a power mux
but it doesn't feel like it does
if its anything like the o3 itll turn the LED on and let you access the internal storage
because i this is me holding it together
no stack nuts rn
what mcu and what utilization
i mean fly harder i suppose
it's not going to die from 85
but it needs wind power to be cooled
i was thinking about trying to wrap the straps around the whole frame
that seems like a bad idea tho right
no
ok that's what i thought
youre meant to fly when you plug in
then when am i meant to configure o4 settings
configure faster
you let it overheat doing it
@gaunt creek what’s goin on?
wha?
o4 falier
nah
it's fine
Dang
that's when it gets worrying
i dunno just wire something up
also this isn't a problem right?
ok
it won't power if i plug the usb into the o4 directly tho right
wrap it up with tape, don't disturb the shielding
ok
probably does
hmm

when u said wire something up tho, it sounded like u were thinking about something elswe
what would i wire it to?
because like idek what i would give it power from if not battery
wait but then i would plug in the battery to turn it on
which would turn on the fc
and cause the same problem right?
or just keep your settings the same
yes
i mean you could even make a little pcb with some connectors on it
im just trying to figure out how to get the best penetration rn and that takes some testing
or a little relay
Wait is para close
*closer
para is done just their 10v is dead for some reason
What stack do they have again?
skystars f405hd2
but then wont there be a yucky residue on the arms
Fuckkk
no
I vouched for skystars :(
i dont like how they design their fcs
also are there any settings on o4 pro that help with range/penetration?
because im dropping signal sometimes
Power
is that def adjustable?
power, bitrate, resolution
where would i adjust these tho?
i dont see them in settings
well i see resoloution in settings
but not power
also o4 no power on with direct usb :(
you might need to do fcc unlock or something
just look up an oscar liang guide
because I doubt anyone in this chat knows how DJI works lol
im in the us tho
even more reason
shouldnt it ship with fcc unlock already?
on o3 you kinda just put channels on auto and bandwith to max so you piss everyone else flying near you off
except for the unlocks theres nothing you can really do softwarewise
on the o4?
the power part
aaand paras o4 works off vbat
ok looks like ham unlock is the same as fcc unlock
so im good
yea it looks like transmit power i could choose 1200mW or set it to auto
any reason to lock it at high power?
my main worry is that it owuldnt switch to high power fast enough if im on auto
and that it would overheat faster and reduce flight time if i lock it to 1200mW
thoughts?
also any advice for what channel to use on manual mode?
uh
oscar liang says to use manual mode but doesnt say how to choose a channel
flight time youll loose a few milliseconds
youll be completly fine at locked max yeah
i'll lock it at 1200mW
oh wait this is sick, i can see interference and choose a channel
ok that makes sense
sorry for dumb questions yall
and should i use focus mode?
idk what does that do again
it "prioritizes focus in the center of the screen while allowing for lower resolution at the edges"
all the reviews i can see are from the v2's
might be good for long range
Everyone i was watching on yt with walksnail used it, i think im gonna start using it. Itll just reduce breakup in the center and increase it on the edges
works pretty well to be honest
ok cool
weird that there no setting to leave it on but i'll leave it on auto
im assuming it doesn't affect onboard recording?
also still unclear why onboard recording cuts out when goggles lose connection
Me slow food fixed it
Cut sum wires
Re-route others
And some Shinanagins
And solder solder solder
@soft pecan @brave moth tommorow we fly!
better not have made a mess smh
didnt see the soldering but it cant be thaat bad
works tho
all bound n shi too
even depinned the connector instead of just cutting it like i do on all of my o3s cause im lazy
make sure to record and send footage!
cant wait for the repairs to start tomorrow
As if people would read a discord thread if they cant follow a rotor builds guide
Yessssss
Made smoke at the capacitor I believe
And shorted gn
🥲
If I saw some smoke does that mean something is permanently ruined?
probably
you didn't check your joints?...
this do be why I like diagnosing first
then acting
I did I think it was the capacitor somehow
I believe the o4 was completely unaffected
well I meant with the whole 10v not working
I got to rip it all apart again and it's to late to do that now everything was all working all at once for a short bit then boom 💥
Gn for now
Big day for me tomorrow but I'll try try again asap
I just finished putting it back together 🥲
Yeah diagnostic stuffs sounds like a good idea
order a multimeter
Some chinesium one from Kaiweets or something
Alrighty will do gn thanks for your efforts
One day I'll fly 🪰
is there any way to get dji transmit power on the osd?
also does this mean that the telemetry power is fixed at 10mw?
let’s say an idiot crashed in fine dirt and now all their motors are crunchy
how do they fix it?
this is where i’m at so far. cleaned with gum, water, and toothbrush
should i just give up and replace it
@wispy nest are these ok to fly like this
🍪
is that a yes lol
This is a cookie
You can still open it up before you try to replace it completely
i did
Look if there's some larger chunk you can see and try to get it out
and tried to clean it with gum, water, and toothbrush
Had a small stone in my motor once
didnt see anything after cleaning
Had to manually guide it out
Since wh- holy shit we are
My work got cancelled for lightning storm ready to diagnose @soft pecan?
Mr slow food told me you would have spent a bunch of time diagnosing and that I should just solder 😨 its all his fault! (Jk) i t was mine I should have listened to you! Please help me fix my errors🙏
the reason I said that the 10v shouldn't have 5v going on it in most FC's
is because either you'd need to have a power mux or similar
Those sound like words
so that the 10v doesn't go on the 5v line
but that could also indicate that's broken
so whatever
Show the soldering that smoked
Omw Home
And I will take it apart after I take a tick shower
I will do whatever you say and nothing else 🫡
why exactly do you think there was 5v on the 10v line
they said it powers on when they plug in the USB into the FC and not with the battery
thats why i said its normal
that's why I thought you were crazy
so my guess is the 10v bec was just dead
or a trace that goes to the connector was broken
I was told there were supposed to be puppy girl memes here
and it'd be nice to diagnose so we can get both a replacement and know what to do next
well were gonna need pictures first
There should be
Showering then you guys have me for the whole day
@buoyant rose @hallow oriole show us puppy girl stuff quick
what
Many people have made requests
Which requests
Puppy girls
@sacred ember here @hallow oriole @kirby people
@soft pecan @brave moth starting teardown now
why?
I shorted the quad
Thanks for the puppy girl stuffs I'm sure when they return they will be satisfied
opening
will piture asap
you should join us
sparked 3 times without bat!
just take off the top plate and a picture
why are you plugging it in again
what the fuck
i would rather die to be honest if this is what they're having para do
I'm not!
It sparked without power somehow
I swear
these pictures aren't great but
are you able to unplug the FC from the ESC and move it to the side to somewhere it won't be shorting?
or would that mess up the wires
God
lol
sure
did you not solder the ground as well?
also where did it spark?
I had my fc spark multiple times already
I had my fc spark multiple times already
Still alive somehow
Wire to positve
para - "is it legal to take a picture with flash on?"
what side is the white stripe on
i suppose you just shorted it to something since it has no tape or heatshrink
and clearly this got hot as well
This means means only cap is ruined prolly?
did it short on the carbon?
probably
I awate your commands
Send me 10000 dollar now
make sure there's no shorts visible
can i also have 12,000$
anywhere
make sure the FC can't be shorter
shorted
and try it with the smoke stopper
there's not much else to do without a multimeter
the cap shorted out on the carbon
(going to join the vc, no mic, just stalking and learning)
para died I think
i want too
so what are the results
from doing this...
the cap was bent down into the channel at the back of the frame and the cap leads were resting on the carbon
and one blew like a fuse lol
so reconnect everything and try it with stopper
no
you reconnect nothing
and try it with the smoke stopper
basically exactly what was written down
even with capasoter not fixed
you gotta fix the cap first
basically recreate problem to see if correct
figure out if the esc is fucked first
how do?
before you spend time removing the capacitor that isn't connected anymore anyways
why would the esc be bad?
that's what messed up caps can do
diwhy has multiple pictures of a shorted cap and then the esc melting
the cap just shorted out on the frame
or even the entire esc exploding from it
the cap itself isnt shorted
yeah just the wire is burnt and towrn
how would that damage the esc?
I don't know how that happens or how it works, just that it has happened before
and I don't see the harm in seeing if it still works and beeps all happily before moving on
a harmless test
amazing
i wonder if it still works
Connect it reversed and see if it explodes
you should gety some shrink tubing
Don't have
you should get
or do i need to use my only spare motor lol
Did the cap short with or without a battery plugged in
Its much more likely to have survived if there was a battery plugged in
@soft pecan thoughts ?
Oh god para, what did you do
need to get the nasty out
can't be grinding up those magnets
emilia i think your wrong
i think you won't last long

in bed?
crazy
unmuted with how trolly and gross you act
in literally what way other than your 14 year old imagination is that a sexual joke
what way did you mean then you mature sole
unmuted, from what generally happens when you come in the text chat
i feel like you cant take critique
emilia did u forget ur monring coffe again
I like to think I am pretty good at taking critique
i gave up trolling like a couple of days ago dawg
i dont thinks so
lwk
what will happen when they fire up a motor that is filled with tiny little grindy sands attached to the magnets
I think your the best Emilia
well have to find out
it might damage the motor a little but itl just leave when flying
and damaging the motor instead of not damaging the motor is not favorable?
im just saying little damage = no damage
slides proffesional ragebait and emilia proffesional at being offended
by slides ragebait
im not ragebaiting you doobie
and I am not offended 
really
Guys stop fighting I lost a screw 🥺
is that so
WOAH
HEY
@mighty plinth what was that
uhhh canada
emilia did you just give up
down boy
or are you trying to get me banned for slight critique
critique is meant to be constructive and careful which you haven't tried either of
saying someone is wrong about something that can be proven is not critique
don't think anyone said that
the ragebait is insane
its not ragebait
i think most people have some preconceived notions of what happens when you come in text chat
okay
Wutköder
what?
That question mark also wutköder
you actually so goofy if you think im rage baiting
Was für ein gigantischer wutköder
who are you fam
im just saying what i think is correct, and others also think so
get over yourself
i tried
i don’t see anything else in there
i used water, toothbrush, and gum
well if it's not going to get better all you can do is just try to fly it
anything else i should try
order some backup motors and hopefully not need them
well if you can't see what you are trying to flush out of it it's going to be hard
you don’t think it’s gonna die mid flight tho?
ya
just worried i split a bearing
prob not worth replacing right?
not on a freestyle or race quad no
if it was something like an LR quad then you probably should consider it
Can i still be kirby?
Gotten it back together yet?
yup betaFLIGHTING WITH BENRY FIRST
oops caps
srry
what's wrong with betaflight lol
arm on aux 5 lol
my modes
@solemn cairn trying to help me "I need a drink"
Beer without alcohol tastes better than beer with
Sometimes it did
Bf doesnt care what aux your arm is at and elrs doesn't know what channel actually does what
Itll always let you arm with any channel in the modes tab
here you go
well yeah obviously it should be on aux 1
explains why it was unstable for them and why i am surprised it worked as well as it did
but it will let you use any of them
like theres nothing that would prevent you from using any other aux channel
you just lose performance and safety features
you lose a significant amount of stability that in a lot of cases does not let you arm unless you keep trying
Why? If aux 5 switch is flipped, elrs will update that on the rx side, and then bf will use aux 5 to arm the quad same as it would with aux 1
I have. There is nothing in there that says it won't work. Only that you shouldn't do it, which is true.
it explains the why of this
I didn't see it
why the o4 be open
speedybee frame side plates
they inject themselves into the o4
you need to take it apart to attach them
that's so strange
also skystars switched the tx and rx so thats why osd doesnt work
getting kind of tired of skystars
I agree
I'm in pain
bmi270, no 10v, non standardized plug for a standardized cable
switched tx/rx
@wispy nest what is with this thing
also the bmi270 isn't really that big of a deal especially on an F405
the rest is kind of wacky though
actually looks like its just the cable thats pinned wrong somehow
wait waht
they're up to HD4 now IIRC
the HD4 has an ICM42688P and the correct DJI connector
what
oh
ok so
the yellow is going to 10v
@soft pecan the 10v works
the plug just puts the 10v into the sbus
so thats great
see why i wanted to diagnose 
diagnosis: skystars is stupid
diagnosis para should have a multimeter smh
just gonna remove the entire plug
and solder to the fc
cannot be bothered to deal with this shit
so should i use my spare or just send it
i’m not clear on whether you mean don’t replace motor or don’t replace bearings
i dont think replacing bearings is worth it on any of the motors this size. she said its not worth replacing on a freestyle build, but the motor would be worth replacing if it was a long range build
a tad worried about blowing a fet tho
yeah
#🧾shopping-advice message not this shit again 😭
can confirm
just to clarify: i said if you are good enough you can fly a 5" like you can fly a 2.5"
and if you are good enough you can probably fly a 7" indoors too
Yeah I'm looking at that link, seems like they totally said that
not that you should
fpv or LOS
both
LOS is really not as hard as people would think. Still maybe not something you should do but eh I've test hovered 7" quads indoors. Would I tell someone new that they could do that? No.
Fpv i feel like would be extremely difficult though
ok good
thank you
np lol
we were just talking about where you could fly a 2.5"; 3.5"; and a 5"
so i said realistically if you have a 3.5 you can fly it in the same spaces as a 2.5" if you just fly more carefully
yeah its just always a question of could vs should
something that always irritates me is that people try to categorize things into two categories:
"will this damage my lipo or not?" everything damages lipos. its just how much will it damage your lipo. sitting there doing nothing its being damaged slowly.
"is it dangerous to fly this inside?" its dangerous to fly anything anywhere, its just a matter of how dangerous. a 5" outside is dangerous, and a 5" inside is more dangerous. you just have to decide if it's worth the risk based on your skill level and reward.
it's somehow hard for people to have common sense
yes the 150mph bit of plastic may damage your walls
(loose calculations from 10000 rpm to prop tip speed)
you could be looking at 20-30k rpm
much much faster than 150mph then lol
im assuming your circumference calculations were right lol idk im not checking em
yeah lol
Is there a way for people to see the footage on a phone or computer as I'm flying?
cant you do that through dji's app or smthing
pretty sure you can
dji fly app
on the o3 system you need to plug your phone into the goggles but im not sure about goggles 3 + o4
should be
What is rssi dbm?
