#Sbus receiver
613 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
show your wiring
ia6b is IBUS not SBUS btw
unless you have an i6x which can reconfigure it
I don’t have pic rn I’m at school but I did a good job with the soldering and even checked if there was any current flow
This the receiver
and now I REALLY want the photo
90% of times someone gets defensive about their wiring, it's wrong
lol I’ll send when I get back in an hour or so
Maybe that’s the issue
But I don’t know where to connect it to the receiver
yeah that's the most common mistake with the ia6B
Even the the pads were 5v, r3, and G
which is why I'm asking
Which slot should it be in
Hmmm ok the top right?
yeah
Remember this: IBUS, unless worked around, does not tell Betaflight that it lost signal, and the drone may fly away upon loss of signal.
Ask for a workaround once you get it basically working.
So what do I do in beta flight
we'll get to that once you're back and have betaflight configurator running
So are the soldering pads correct
that depends on both ends of the connection
so I can't give you an answer
generally speaking they're the right pads
but I have no idea if they're connecting to tthe right things on the receiver
Alr
In case you need it later and I'm not around:
Here I explained to someone else how to fix failsafe (loss of signal behaviour) with i6 + ia6b + Betaflight
#1327795724527603722 message
His is with ppm though
no, it's IBUS
I'm not evil enough to let someone run PPM
so half of the thread was fixing that mistake of theirs
To be honest I don’t get what’s happening in there
Ehhh... k I'll rewrite it
idk if I'll be available and this is critical info to prevent you from having your drone fly away like mine did 🙂 @harsh ember
Receiver loses signal, and decides to maintain previous input values - like 50% throttle for example.
Betaflight has no idea that it should failsafe, since the receiver isn't telling it anything about its signal status, so it just keeps flying.
If you're unlucky enough, the drone was pointed away from you when it lost signal, so it keeps flying even further away out of signal range.
So I should keep the drone closer to me?
okay, let's say that you have 50% throttle and you drop your radio by accident
batteries fall out of it, and the drone loses signal...
but it has no idea that it lost signal
ohh
so it keeps happily flying away at 50% throttle
What if it goes out of range without that happening
?
Like I fly it to far
same thing
The radio may try to warn you but it's not very reliable
unfortunately, the receiver doesn't tell Betaflight anything about its signal quality
So should I switch to radio link
oh poop
ELRS
I can only shop on Amazon though
ELRS.
Does elrs work with my transmitter?
No
same story as radiolink tho
RadioMaster Pocket + any ELRS 2.4GHz receiver
will give you 10x the range of Flysky/Radiolink
(I'm not even exaggerating)
Most likely, yeah
How much do I get now
the pocket has a 250mW ELRS transmitter
The i6 has a 100mW AFHDS2A transmitter
ELRS is MUUUUCH more efficient than AFHDS2A
and you get double the power
Amazon?
?
you have to look it up yourself, my amazon results will be completely different from yours.
RadioMaster Pocket is the cheapest ELRS radio worth buying.
It’s not there
In fact, it's the cheapest radio worth buying period.
that's odd
what country?
Usa
idk if this offer exists in USA
but this is just one of many
RadioMaster makes other ELRS radios as well, all of them are great
Just make sure it's ELRS, not CC2500, not 4in1
because these radios exist in non-ELRS versions as well
Where else can I buy the radio master other than Amazon
Any FPV shop
RadioMaster is currently, by far, the most popular radio manufacturer
and ELRS is by far the most popular protocol
lemme check if it's supported
quick note: since ELRS is so popular, many manufacturers have started making ELRS hardware without consulting the ELRS team
so it's best to check if it's supported
before you buy
How do I check
ExpressLRS Configurator
it has a device selection
and you see if what the manufacturer tells you the receiver is exists in there
According to the PDF manual for this receiver, it's a HGLRC Hermes 2400RX
That one exists in ELRS Configurator so it seems safe enough?
So it’s good?
There is a slight doubt in my mind.
And also in the mean time while requesting return on Amazon it’s possible if I just use the fs for now
Corrrct?
HGLRC says that it's a HGLRC Hermes
But those Hermes receivers, according to ELRS docs, look a bit different than this one.
I sent a question in an internal ELRS chat, to see whether this receiver was officially tested.
If you want officially supported receivers, RadioMaster RP1 or Happymodel EP1 are rock solid.
flysky just has that failsafe annoyance, is difficult to get signal quality info out of, etc
np
How much range would I get with my fs
is 0.5 miles to much?…
In a clear, dry area with no obstacles it is doable
water and ground are problematic
Wet trees are signal death
Wet grass to an extent as well
Sounds good
if it rained yesterday, beware of trees
Would I be able to full throttle or would it burn my motors
Would you mind if I told u the parts
Note about the HGLRC receivers (got response from an elrs dev):
They haven't been officially tested, but they don't look problematic.
I would very much like it if you told me the parts 
would make my work easier
It’s the f722 stack radio link
I’m also not gonna add fpv or gps
This is the motor
But I don’t do anything crazy
So is it a problem that I have emthem?
They were extremely cheap
30 bucks
My main problem with it is that it has an aluminium prop shaft
which means that you need to have a CW and CCW variant (one of those has a reverse thread)
since you can't tighten the nut onto the prop too hard
What’s that
On a 4 motor drone, two motors spin clockwise, two spin counter-clockwise.
Yes they do that
If you put the same direction of prop shaft thread onto all of them, two will try to loosen their prop nut when they spin
They all soon different directions
Spin
But I can also just solder in the other way correct?
You can't solder a thread on a prop shaft
What do you mean?
In modern days, the propnut loosening problem was solved by having a very strong prop shaft, and using a locknut with a lot of tightening force.
In olden days, this was solved by having a variant of the motor with a reversed thread
So what do I need
you need to re-read what I wrote from here:
#1329551621096476733 message
the thread on two of the motors should be reversed
it shouldn't take a normal nut
What’s a thread
it needs a nut with a reversed thread
I don’t get it sorry
Oh I get it now
It’s fine for me to be honest they screw are glued to the prob
Prop
??
what is glued where
?
^
I am not anywhere near drunk enough for this..
lol I’m sorry
I like know nothing about these
Either way I tested the motors out already in beta flight
They worked good
OOHHHHH
and it has a thread on it
you meant from the top
nowadays, these shafts are steel or titanium alloy
so you can crank the prop nut down like crazy
so all of the motors can have standard thread
and you won't really have a problem with 2 of the motors unscrewing the nut
It comes with stuff to keep them shut
but your motor has an aluminium prop shaft
so if you crank it down, it will come off (the entire shaft, ask how I know)
?
OBVIOUSLY IT COMES WITH NUTS
the problem is the direction in which you tighten them
OHHHHH
So in old days, 2 of the motors would have a reverse thread
what if I put eniugh pressure
you have an aluminium prop shaft
it will break.
That's why old motors came in CW/CCW variants
What if I just glue it 😭
and that's why modern motors, with steel shafts, don't
Either the glue is too weak and doesn't do shit
Or it eats the material the prop is made out of (loctite does this)
so
did you get 2 motor directions?
Alr I’ll work on that later but my main problem is the receiver for now
check if the motors have CW/CCW written on them
I’ll check when I get home but I don’t think so
aight
actualy
did you get black and silver nuts with the motors?
or are they all one color?
apparently, black/silver is how they differentiated the nut thread direction
well, you'll have to figure it out later then
When will u be available if not
Oh
When will you be available after
Would it be fine if you make a few amount of time for me? I’m almost home
IBUS wiring
black = gnd
red = 5V
white = signal (to RX3 or RX-side of whatever free UART you've got)
Wat do I do on beta flight
in BF Configurator, you want to have (only!) Serial RX ticked on (only!) the right UART (RX3 = UART3)
Also, you need to have BF flashed with IBUS support
How I do that
In Receiver tab, select the IBUS protocol (and save, always save)
if the bars on the left side of Receiver tab have values in them
then you have IBUS support
if they're empty
then you don't
here you can see them with values
if they're blank instead, then the firmware doesn't do IBUS
To get IBUS support, you need to flash the BF firmware
at the top is a Update Firmware button
BUT FIRST
if you have any settings that you don't want to lose
make a backup in Presets tab
there is a Save Backup button
sorry for the rush but I rly need to go to bed 😂
Once you press Flash Firmware, you should quickly get to a moving progress bar, at the very bottom where it currently says "Please load firmware file"
If it gets stuck, and you're on Windows, then you'll need to fix the drivers and retry.
ImpulseRC Driver Fixer is a common tool for that (alternative tool: Zadig. Use on "STM32 BOOTLOADER" ONLY)
Ok thanks
For some reason my motors are all spinning in ome direction
And when I test them only all can be selected
Not individually
Like when using the sliders on the right side of the Motors tab?
In the CLI tab, type in resource and press enter. Are all the motors assigned to different pins?
Huh. And you've restored the backup you made already, right?
I don’t know
Did you make a backup before flashing?
That's okay. So you restored the backup, then set the receiver protocol to IBUS?
You don't need to ping me every 5 minutes lol
What is the motor protocol set to?
DSHOT?
sorry
In the current Betaflight configuration
This probably won't do anything different, but what happens if you turn on bidirectional DShot?
Did the motors ever work properly?
When did that change? Did they only stop working after flashing firmware?
And I assume you made sure these settings were all correct?
Yea
Is everything else working? Gyro, receiver, etc.?
Yea
Everything
It’s basically a working drone now but the motors aren’t working the way they should be
Hmm... I guess you could try resetting everything to defaults, then reconfiguring from scratch
Make sure you don't delete that backup you made though, so you can revert back to it if need be
How did you reset it? If you've not tried already, you can try flashing and enabling the "full chip erase" option
I think it's hidden behind the advanced options
Yeah
This is after resetting the whole thing and then setting the motor protocol and stuff?
Yea didn’t work
Ugh. Last thing - check the firmware version of your ESC, maybe it's like... super old or something. Betaflight recommends BLHeli_32 v32.7 so if it's older than that then you can try updating the firmware
It’s 4.5
?
Is that perhaps the Betaflight version number?
If that is the ESC version number, what kind of firmware is it running?
The ia6b does actually do signal telemetry
I just downloaded it though
Like a day ago
So it should be up to date
And it still worked after you updated the ESC but before you updated your FC, right?
What kind of firmware is it running?
I don’t know how to check
Turns out you can run the internal and external modules at the same time!
Give me 15 minutes I gotta go to something
How did you update the ESC firmware then?
You sure he isn't running modded firmware?
https://github.com/Cleric-K/FlySkyRxFirmwareRssiMod
It’s reporting to my radio, not necessarily to any hypothetical flight controller
Oh lol that's you in the video 😭
How would it be old if it worked before
.how would it be old if it already worked
Purely speculation on my part. But it's possible that there's some kind of version incompatibility between your new version of Betaflight and whatever firmware your ESCs are running
What exactly did you download like a day ago? I suspect we may not be talking about the same things. Or that there's some sort of misunderstanding
Ohhh
I understand what you mean
I’ll check right now ome sec
How do I check the esc
Filmware
@oak meadow sorry for ping
BLHeli Suite 32
Errr I guess it's called BLHeli_32 Suite. It's a separate program that talks to the ESC instead of the flight controller
Oh wait I forgot they shut down BLHeli_32 😭 You wouldn't be able to update the firmware anyway through that
I'm not really sure what to try next, Maybe once @lament monolith is awake and free again they'll be able to help
Should I just solder and switch the wires
No. You said the motors were working before, and that the only difference between then and now is that you updated the FC firmware. So it's not a hardware issue
If I switch 2 wires in 2 motors they spin dif detection
That's true. That won't solve the issue though
When he starts helping you again
Just be patient. He's got a life outside of the server, no one's beholden to helping you. He'll help when he can
It can 🤷
Cuz my sister was messing around with the fc and she soldered wires on the fc
Horridness job but it was on the pads
What pads were soldered?
If something got bridged then it could cause an issue. A component also could've gotten fried, but that's unlikely since everything works
Sure
Yeah so I would redo all those wires on the left lol
Try to clean up the excess solder as much as possible too
This pad might also be bridged to like 2 other pads
It's possible. It also can't hurt to redo them
Alr
I’ll see but this was yesterday btw
But it was after I checked the motors
So I don’t know if this actuslly caused it or not
It may have been the problem but there’s also this
089 left side
She got solder in there
If it looks like it's not bridging anything, I would leave it alone unless you're confident you can resolder surface mount components
No the other side
On top of the number
Look at the difference
This one is on the right side
And it’s clean
OH
Yeah 😭😭
Is that the problem
so that’s what’s making the motors like that?
Can't say for certain, but it's likely
That’s gonna be so hard to clean
Yeah. FWIW if you have a desoldering braid you might be able to verrry carefully get that off
"For what it's worth"
Dude I have only a cheap solder
Factories have to use unleaded solder, so if you're using leaded it'll have a lower melting point; you might be able to get it off okay
Oh a cheap soldering iron?
Yea
Gotcha. That'll certainly make it more difficult
I would try to get the solder off, if you don't mind spending time on it
Is that the same size?
Sure. I would try to fix the solder on your current FC though. Then if you can't fix that one, use your spare to make sure it's a problem with the FC. If it is, then you can buy a new FC
Yea but I just wanna see if this will get the motors to spin right
Sure 🤷
If it’s not the same size will it not work?
It worked
The thing with this one is I’m able to spin one at a time
But it won’t let me rotate it
Like switch the direction
What version of Betaflight is it running?
Ahhh 4.4
It should be able to reverse the motors then
Does the switch that flips all of them work?
No
They just won’t flip directions
What do I type in cli to check
Oh nvm got it
I might just use the mini would that be fine?
@oak meadow ??
Not really. The gyro is on the flight controller so if you don't have a good way to mount it, it will not fly well
it tells the radio, very unreliably, but not BF
so I guessed right with the 90% thing huh
nahhh
I actually did real good job
Look at the soldering skills
My computer science teacher let me use his solder
@lament monolith wgat do I do in this situation
I switched to the speedy bee mini because my f722 ain alive no more
But jow the speedy bee over heating
did you check the ESC wiring?
what killed the F722?
The FC to ESC wiring is NOT standardised
it differs between FC/ESC manufacturers
so you sometimes have to repin connectors
U gotta start talking to my like a child cuz god I don’t understand what u mean
there are 8 wires in the FC to ESC cable
yes
their order is not standardised
one manufacturer may do GND BAT M1 M2 M3 M4 TELE NC
other manufacturer may do BAT TELE M4 M3 M2 M1 GND NC
Do u want me to show u ?
I want you to take a look and check
The fc and the esc
afk 45min
ok
@lament monolith ?
well, that took longer than I expected
show what the cable looks like when plugged into FC
at first glance it looks like it's wired up correctly
Well, heating up to some extent is normal
This entire thread looks like if 2015 was a drone
My first quad was almost identical to this one as far as the rx, frame, and motors go
Do u know a way to fix it
What part is making the noise?
When does it sound like a jet?
When I try it out with my receiver
So as I said before, I wouldn't expect it to fly well
This is like trying to fix a model T and expecting to drive it onto the highway
But it would heat up?
Not really. The only thing that usually heats up is the VTX in my experience
Double check you've not connected a high voltage wire where you're not supposed to?
Also... is the mini rated for whatever battery you're using?
Jow
My battery 3s
@lament monolith any suggestions?
What are you asking?
Pretty sure that's just runaway prevention?
This is the second fc
The exploding noise?
What exploding noise?
I didn’t hear the end?
At 10 seconds?
That sounds like the motor stopping itself. I don't hear any explosion 🤷 I might be wrong though
The flight controller?
It sounded like it was about to explode
Yea the mini
This one is the radio link fc
What on the board is heating up?
Does it heat up only using USB?
So maybe it's the ESC that's heating up?
It wasn’t hot though?
Okay 🤷
And when I did it with a different fc like in this video the fc wasn’t heating up
The heat will be generated by something though. The entire board is not going to heat up uniformly
Does it heat up when you only plug in USB?
And it's the entire board that's heating up?
Is anything bridged?
I did some soldering
Maybe that’s the provlem
So I’ll unsolder everything
Check if that’s the problem
Where esc or fc?
The board that's overheating; the fc