#building-and-recc-chat
1 messages · Page 410 of 1
Main benefit to a cooler on say - 3700x, 3900x especially - is silence imo
I wouldn't trust getting a cooler on ebay
Ebay can be more of a gamble some timres more than others, but you can easily get a feel for what sellers/listings are likely to make for a smooth transaction
but I would 100% support buying used
I picked up a $30 2500k , and another 64 cores today, 0 issues.
How about this: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/p9GJx6
3600 man - they're $195 now
go msi gaming plus for that price range board, ditch the cooler, is that a platter boot drive in 2019? Jokes aside - I think you'll be happy with any of the partve we've suggested.
English please
One thing i have experienced with those Gammaxx coolers for AMD you have to strap it on the old AMD way
i'll just use the stock cooler
the stock cooler would be alright for now but if you want something to cool it better save up and go for one of these https://pcpartpicker.com/product/VHtWGX/noctua-nh-l9x65-se-am4-cpu-cooler-nh-l9x65-se-am4
It's the same person I just changed my name
We know
foof
All you did was remove arctic >_<
I’d go for something else, since that’s kinda a smaller form cooler
It’s just a taller l9
Do pc parts go on sale for a lot during black friday?
ya but that is bestbuy
ok
places like Bestbuy and Staples from my experience is they usually charge more than what you can buy online
have you ever bought parts from Black Friday?
I am in Canada so our black friday is a little different
Oh.
We will have great sales as well just not the type like "first 5 of this is 90% off" and then watch a bunch of people get sent to the hospital
I have seen news reports of people actually getting killed over a 60" 4K TV that is being sold for like 100$
around Xmas the cost might go up
really?
Xmas is the season to make money
Well Black friday this year starts November 29th
Is your thanksgiving around that time as well?
yes
I would wait till black friday first to see what deals you can get cause also you never know you could maybe get the 2600X for like 100$ instead
But at my best buy people are at the store at 5PM and stay there all night until it opens the next day.
or they could even have the X570 boards and the 3600 cheaper which could equal up to your 600$ build
buy it online
Yeah I will
How much do you think a $300 Vega 56 will drop to? this is for a friend.
on a black friday maybe to like 200$ give or take
But it also depends if they want to give that one a sale
Ok the friend has a pc and was looking for a gnu upgrade
tell your friend to get the 5700 instead of the vega 56
Ok that's what I thought would be better.
Right now he has a FX8350 8 core clocked at 4.00 ghz
he needs to change that
someone built it for him
if i remember a Ryzen 3 is better than the FX 8350
a lot
@silver lion https://pcpartpicker.com/list/sph7Pn fixed list
fixed a list that doesn't fit his theme
You're gaming at 1080p right?
yeah
so no point in the 590 to be honest
In total it is $20 more but is a list I can actually recommend without feeling like I am putting a your parts at risk
@latent bronze that is a nonsense statement
A 590 wont be doing 144hz 1080p ultra even
Im mostly gonna play fortnite all low settings
with a 580 you can max it out
Im trying to get as much fps as possible
@latent bronze I would like to see a single modern aaa game where you can get 1080p ultra 144fps with a 580...
@little osprey this is your thing you are thinking of every game besides for the games people would play
would fortnite get at least 144fps with a 580 all low settings
@latent bronze I'm thinking of every aaa game since the 580 launched and none would make your statement true. And @silver lion yes but I presume you will play more than one game with lowered settings if you are planning to buy a whole pc
when someone would build a system you question what they plan on doing with it and if it is mainly for gaming check to see what they play or want to play and then go on from there because yes the 590 would be fine and all but sometimes it can be too much because lets say he wanted to play a game like Overwatch as an example no one would recommend a 590 for that game at 1080p
i hate overwatch, but i see what your saying
I use games like that as an example
The thing is he kept trying to tell me to get a 590 as well without thinking of asking what i am playing just thinking of every game out there which the games i play Nvidia would have a better benefit
@latent bronze i dont think you have played overwatch. That game also wount be doing max settings 100fps on a 580.
it actually is pretty hard to run as you ramp settings up
especially on the gpu
I get 100 fps on Overwatch with a 4gb 570
Im pretty much gonna play rainbow six siege and fortnite
i play it cause i have friends to play with as well
Overwatch's engine and gameplay favor much higher fps - many players using tweaks to bypass the cap and aim for 400 fps
I'm not gonna play overwatch
@silver lion we're not talking about just you in the matter of the examples
not to mention im pretty sure the br is lacking ocp on the 12v rail
which really isnt something you want to be missing
it also uses a sleeve bearing fan
which isnt going to last long
and the steel legend is a pretty low amperage board compared to the tomahawk (overall this point doesn't matter too much)
i also would suggest paying a couple $ more for a 10ns kit
and not buying an x variant of the 2600 as zen plus has no binning process
Hey, you said something I agree with
Wait, the x570 steel legend vs b450 tomahawk? with reference to cpu vrm?
B450 Steel Legend
th b450
the x570 steel legend actually is pretty amazing in terms of ripple
also there really shouldn't be anything stated there that is up for debate or disagreeable with
no ocp on 12v rail is factually a really bad thing
zen plus parts arent binned on the x variants
How do you measure ripple? If not yourself, what sources?
Scope and differential probe?
and 10ns kits are factually better than 10.6 kits
@little osprey generally if a board doesnt have low switching frequencies and has a high phase count ripple wont be high
So, while that may be a valid theory - how confident are you ?
confident in what? that a high switching frequency and phase count will result in less ripple than a lower phase count board with a lower switching frequency? that isnt really up for debate and is a factual point so it isnt really a matter of confidence and instead a matter of basic understanding
Rather, I ask again, have you personally measured, recorded, analyzed and shared your data with the community?
If not, what source(s) have led you to be so confident about these board characteristics. They must be pretty convincing, I'd love to see them. Always looking to learn tbh.
What about higher order harmonics induced from the pwm carrier frequency?
Even if Vripp is lower - increased EMI - especially where you don't want it - can cause more problems than ironing out those last few db of ripple - and that's my guess
edit- to clarify - I'm just stating a possible reason why one can't be so confident about initial assumptions
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/gsMCJb The power supply comes with the cords and stuff right?
yes
ok good, it fits perfectly with the color scheme
none of the rbg/leds in that build match lmao
i really dont think electromagnetic interference will be effecting the input voltage or current to a cpu or how stable that signal is
No im getting the case with black white and blue
No? But you were going on earlier about how ripple on soc is important
cause that green makes me wanna just say go with no leds
What about the memory , pcie, PCH etc traces
lol
@silver lion i will heavily recommend against that psu as it doesnt have labeled protections unless you can find a review that went in depth on protections for it
Also you won't really see much of the LED from the PSU and would probably be better off with a lighting strip
Seeing as the case has a psu shroud
Don't be a fool, wrap your tool
foof
what keybaord @quick tide
@little osprey ripple on the soc is important and again is filtered by the soc vrm. the soc voltage and ripple correlate with the imc for ryzen and high or low spikes will cause damage or crashes. The traces also wont be likely to get close enough to cause any major interference (also for this part I need to double check some diagrams i have on am4 pin outs but im pretty sure on teh socket the pcie and soc traces are going to very different portions of the socket than the soc or vcore voltage are coming in from)
@silver lion protections as in sip, ovp, uvp, ocp, ucp, otp, etc
is filtered by the VRM? I wasn't implying EMI would reach the soc by first affecting the 12V plane or EPS12V / 24 pin ATX connector
Please explain the difference between the terms SOC and IMC in context to zen2
ripple on the psu side is filtered by the capacitors
soc voltage is what goes to the imc and also goes to the gpu if applicable in the case of an apu. the imc is the integrated memory controller and not a voltage source
@little osprey https://www.newegg.com/evga-600-bq-110-bq-0600-k1-600w/p/N82E16817438100?Item=N82E16817438100
Other than this only being bronze rated how would this be over his original?
this is why when pushing ram people will up the soc voltage as it will decrease the likelihood of an imc failure (most ram overclocking on zen is limited by the imc)
@limpid merlin bq line completely lacks ocp and otp
otp matters less but ocp is a huge issue
ocp in my opinion is the most omportant protection period
if a psu is missing ocp do not use it
(when i said gpu there i meant integrated gpu to be clear )
the s12iii does lack otp which sucks but it maintains all connected part protections
also avoid the s12ii as it is not the same psu and lacks ocp, uvp, and otp
same with the m12ii
https://www.newegg.com/thermaltake-smart-m-series-sp-650m-650w/p/N82E16817153187?Item=N82E16817153187
This any better, just trying to find something that'd work for him that isn't $100
i dont have info on that but im gonna guess no
the commander iii and s12iii and cx are his best bets
especially the commander iii
that psu is literally a god send
"Heavy-duty protection circuitry of Over Current, Over Voltage, Under Voltage, Over Power and Short-Circuit
protections."
@limpid merlin there are plenty of psu with that description on newegg that are missing protections or only have partial protections
such as missing ocp on 12v rail in many of them
What PSU do you currently use? If you had no budget, what would be your picks for a ~750W , 1000W, and 1200+W unit?
Most importantly - why?
why did you buy ll fans or a corsair aio...
That is a Deepcool Matrexx isn't it
or an asus x570 board...
Lol got some hate got asus x570? Too few phases there? Need moar doubler?
I want rgb
asus basically used a high amperage design to get by the poor testing methodology of most reviewers where they will only test temps (which only matter if you are hitting a pont where mofets get damaged) and realized basically none check what really matters in a vrm so they dont have to focus on ripple or transient response in their design at all
and the x570 crosshair viii is a joke
a single soc phase and 7 vcore phases
i would honestly take any non asus x570 board over it
@tender field is that the Deepcool Matrexx 55 case?
i specify non asus as asus somehow also has all the other boards on x570 i consider worse
also corsair aios mostly are just bland asetek aios using the standard pump, radiator, and block of all other asetek aios but with a higher price
so in other words a bad deal
I am asking cause if it is you would be better off keeping the tempered glass panel off
What kind of ripple and transient respones testing do you do?
Do you think that 7 phases for core vcc and another, each with a pair of IR 3555's is insufficient in terms of transient performance for say, a 3900x in the C8H?
If so, which voltage controller, FETS/powerstages / chokes / general design would you go with? What's a mothboard that "knocked it out of the park" in your book?
biostar x570
@little osprey has he still never answered your question on that?
Saves us both time to drop it
i didnt answer because im not always watching the chat...
yeah im not even gonna read the context of this convo lol
a good source would be buildzoid but for much of my analysis i feel my own understanding on a vrm and different components should be enough to draw a fare conclusion if there is no available direct source who tested the ripple or transients of a board or if I do not have direct access to that board to test myself
also, better ripple and transients matters for any cpu. it isnt a matter of "can i handle this cpu with this much ripple". you are thinking of rated amperage which isnt really relevant with ryzen as most ryzen parts are low power
i actually have thought of making my own board as well and maybe having it printed and buying the components to complete it but that will have to wait as i still need to finish laying out the block diagram for my planned low latency (unfortunately not so saleable) architecture that i have planned out awhile ago and i also need to finish the turing, volta, pascal, (Vega maybe but the block diagrams for it aren't too far off so i might not make one for gcn 5.0 or 5.1), and skylake/coffeelake block diagrams first.
i also would like to make a proper rdna block diagram but i cant find an ir die shot of any navi 10 or navi 14.
(with navi 14 ir die shots being difficult to find for obvious reasons)
Well hey, I've got a few Intel, AMD, and other boards, cards, chips etc from the last few gens, if you're particularly curious, I'l lbe happy to give whatever it is you want to test a shot - transient response, ripple, vdroop , w/e. Can't measure anything nearing 1 GHz - but other than ddr4 etc - not too important usually.
im more interested in the die shots under an ir microscope for gpus and cpus
if you have an ir microscope however those images would be appreciated
IR microscope? Like infra red?
yes'
popcrn, you want to make your own motherboard or GPU card?
can someone help me pick out a psu am so confused how much i actually need
Pcpartpicker.com does a great job of estimating wattage for you
@next sand I plan to eventually make my own motherboard for the hell of it and am making an architecture focused on the task I do such as raytracing to render assets and scene light baking (which really is a pain)
@stark spruce it really doesnt as they calculate wattage off tdp
As far as I’m aware it overestimates slightly so you may end up with slightly more psu than you need
@stark spruce that isnt at all what it does or how it works or how you select a psu
You want a psu to be around 50% load or just over that
You also dont calculate off tdp
As tdp not only doesnt mean power draw but in certain cases is very far from that
According to them, They estimate what you’d expect under full load
And I understand tdp
The best way to calculate wattage is to ignore tdp, not use pcpp, and do basic research into what your parts will draw and attempt to target 50% load on a psu
As again, most psu efficiency curves max at 50% load and will have major dropoff sub or post that
One of the psu with a better curve with less of a dropoff is the commander iii again
Again I understand psu efficiency curves, I don’t need someone explaining them to me. Most people aren’t shooting for the highest efficiency they just want something that will work.
Plus if you were truly going for highest efficiency you want average use case to be around 50-60% load not full load at 50-60%. If you set full load at 50-60% of the PSU, you’ll drop way below that at idle.
The reason you want max efficiency at full load has to do with tempa
*temps
Full load is where you will see temps spike up on the psu and also where you will see a psu start to see issues if you have some sort of dust buildup or a case that restricts airflow to the psu.
So you are saying if my full load is 500w I want a 1000w psu?
🤔
Aren't you supposed to have like 100w more than required to be safe or something?
@stark spruce no system realistically with a single modern gpu will get to 500w unless using some server grade cpu.
I was just using it as an example not necessarily an avg real world situation
@little osprey have you seen a Vega with power play mods
@vague willow no, leaving your system with only 100w until tripping ocp is not a good idea as with many psu that will result in crashes from power spikes or even high temps that may kill the psu in a high dust or low airflow scenario
they draw like 300 alone
Soo more than 100
Just get a 650-750w and you should be fine
?
You also didn’t answer the question @little osprey
@deep skiff even a v64 system with its power limit removed wont realistically be nearing 500w and generally someone pushing just the GPU isnt pushing the cpu as much
@stark spruce the answer is yes. If someone has a system drawing 500w they likely have multiple high power gpus and some sort of high power CPU like a 9900k
Thank you for answering the question
Hmm, from my time overclocking vega I really cant see that happening. My guess is gn may have overdone the voltage as even if fully boosted at stock voltages it literally cant reach that wattage. The big issue on vega however does tend to be power throttle hence why you can go directly from 1400mhz to 1600mhz on the core from a power mod or undervolting without touching the core
But as switching frequency unlike voltage isnt a squared relation with power if voltage isnt changed at most you will see a 13% power increase without touching voltage
You don’t want a PSU to be at 50-60% load at PC full load
Plain and simple. When the pc idles you’ll most likely be down around 10% PSU load which is where efficiency can drop below 50% for some PSUs
Did you fail to read any of what I wrote?
At idle wattage first off wasted power is almost nothing so not much power is wasted as heat so a psu wont overheat from that
Give it 100-200w more than it needs
The psu fears this man https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/brpm0e/firestrike_extreme_w_flashed_galax_vbios_1000w/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
Load wattage however heat does become an issue and in the case of dust buildup or poor ventilation a psu will overheat
There are certain psus where this would need to be more extreme to become an issue but many post half load do get pretty close to cap damaging temps or tripping otp
This is what psus must meet to achieve The different levels of 80 plus certification
Which is irrelevant to the conversation...
Not really
Temps and efficiency relate but even the certification other than titanium only test 3 points which allows for major dropoffs inbetween those test points with certain designs and also again shows that at those test points other than half load efficiency can be lower
There are even psus that in half load would count a tier or 2 higher than they are rated as
Which again suffer from hard dropoffs in efficiency and as a result temp increases on the higher than half load point
As more power is getting lost to heat in terms of percentile with a larger overall wattage temps will exponentially increase
@deep skiff if a psu has poor cooling and they have a restrictive case and at the lower point hit otp and their system shuts down or they lack otp and the psu dies (both cases pay is effectively useless for them now) then yes
But the majority don’t do that
sigh
Skimming through all that - let's not give dangerous, poorly informed advice on matters that could result in a fire hazard -ya?
'
@little osprey please stop sending messages to all the channels with that
i am trying to get rid of the unread alert. it won;'t go away otherwise @lime forge
i think its a glitch
try updating/restarting discord
have fun
Hello
hey
I thought a certain someone else changed their name for a sec, relieved
haha
What is a mod trainee
exactly what it says
what does this mean on PcPartPicker: Note:Some physical dimension restrictions cannot (yet) be automatically checked, such as cpu cooler / RAM clearance with modules using tall heat spreaders
it doesnt know whether certain parts it says can fit with one another
Ok thanks
anytime
just found someone supposedly selling a gaming pc with a i7 8700k and 11g video card with 16 gigs of ram
for 450$ seems fishy lmao
yeah, i wouldnt trust that
right
his reasoning was "he really needs the money his loss"
also looks water cooled but he didnt add that in the description 🤔
Used 1080 doesnt go for 400, its 330 at best and that's for strix models or similat
ive never bought used so i wouldnt know 🤡🤡
@lime forge let me educate you on 1080’s used with my oc’d 1070 ti strix 😉
shhh
Hey guys i know ive been constantly asking and changing my build but thats it its finally over im gonna order the parts tonight but before i do did i miss anything??? Change or something

It is an alright build but i would check on reviews for the MSI cards
forbidden cpu cooler
Check the GQ review as well - don't remember that one off the top of my head - it's not a superflower like most EVGA
id look at a 5700xt like powercolor or sapphire also
yeah thats a fantastic card with fantastic brands
some of the cheaper MSI cards i have known for them getting quite loud
Telling us that wont throw us off then
Pulse is good, personally I'd get the strix and hope it has a good warranty
The GQ has pretty good reviews
i would look for reviews outside of amazon
- ew at&t
- charge ur phone
- read articles about the products too
- shop on newegg.com

(jk about the first one)
zack you forgot to tell him to charge his phone
Look at both quantity and quality of amazon/newegg reviews - to make sure a unit isn't obviously prone to failure - then go check reviews by Aris from Tom's hardware, jonnyguru, etc
@latent bronze #2
i didn't see cause you said ur instead of your lol
What's the best z390 for overclocking under $350
say hello to my most arodinamic drag race car of a drag cof... .08
capable of staying stable at 150m/s
what.
ok?
ok.
Someone help me understand the difference between the two if yall dont mind.
The one that will be in stock on oct 6th is what the video shows i should get. The one that is in stock is what is available
Well one is 550watts and the other is 500watts and 80+ white certified
80+ is the ranking system for quality
As for which one to get idk bruv
@fallow knoll both lack otp and ocp and if im not mistaken use sleeve bearing fans so they are a good way to kill your system
explain to me what otp and ocp is please
@soft holly you can save a ton of money and get a 5700 and end up with a sort of faster gpu, avoid the h510 as it has terrible airflow and is overpriced along with being a pain to build in with custom cables, that lpx kit is really overpriced for 10ns and lpx kits have issues reaching rated speeds due to binning issues, change ssd to something using the sm2258g as it will last longer and save you over 50% on the ssd.
@bright quartz overcurrent protection and it is probably the most important protection your psu can have
I wonder if mine has that
if you have that evga psu then no
Smart Series 600W
let me double check as i havent checked the smart series in a long time but im pretty sure it is missing primary protections too but again give me a sec to check
thermaltake power supplies

just expressing that i like thermaltake
if from this line it is missing otp which isnt too big of a deal as it has ocp and unless missing ocp otp doesnt really matter much (unless a fan fails and you are the type of person to replace the fan and not rma). @bright quartz
if they are from the same line likely no
in terms of protections and base design that is
cool
overall i would say you are much better off with the psu you have than people getting cxm psus which also lack 12v ocp
both versions of cxm do
I traded out a 430W EVGA for my new 600W Thermaltake
considering how many evga psus are missing primary protections im willing to bet you got the better end of that deal lol
I had a GTX 950, which at the time I thought was giving me issues
just the jump from 430 to 600w alone is a good upgrade
so until I got a new gpu, I was going to use my gtx 770
which needed way more power
so I just upgraded power supply
and used my 770
I figured out that it wasnt the 950 giving me issues, but my power strip I was using
and also my monitor
so I went in a big circle of PC parts lol
I bought a new monitor and a gtx 1070
1070 (ノಠ益ಠ)ノ彡┻━┻
what does that mean
it means 1070 kicks butt
in a good way?
yes
yeah, its way better than my 770
I play Rainbow 6 Siege
I get about 50 more fps than my 770
nice
Haven't seen you around, how's it going?
i have been bored as i agreed not to break some diet which involves not drinking ;-;
Keto? tbh I'd be down for a health/food/fitnes channel
keto is part of it
Life is short, eat calories
I need to post more in the overclocking channel, gotta keep it alive haha
@little osprey I think once I get the new PSU and all the new cables in I am going to take some new pictures. Seeing how its a new PSU, new GPUs, bridge, all that good stuff. Its not a new build, but a redo for sure.
Seems like a few others caught the 3dmark bug last night, makes me happy to see
@agile gust Nice - happy to help/give input if wanted as always
Also - to anyone - hmu for my EVGA associate code and you can save 5-10%
I have a whole second computers worth of parts on my shelf, but no case that will fit it all
Always glad to have people like yourself here to help with the stuff I dont know much about. You able to join voice?
I have a funny story for ya
Mobo box works as a nice test bench
it does. I also have a Praxis wetbench
hey - I could appreciate some build advice for once - I've been looking at options for a 220mm to 600mm PCIe shielded + stranded riser. Phantaks has 2 high quality one? 1 questionable, thermaltake as well, and of course china goods
Yes it would be
TBH - I'm a diehard seasonic PSU fan
i just got the phantecks one, my dad got the thermaltake one, will keep you posted on how well they work
@noble jewel is my HERO!!!!
i've heard good things about the phantecks one, especially because it had that 90 degree adapter
if its going in a thermaltake case with a thermaltake mount for it i recommend the thermaltake one because it mounts nice
I have been really happy with my evga
well, I have 3 of them. But my G2L is about 3 years old
and has been great
I have a 650 B3 as well but it doesnt get used very often.
I should take more pictures lol.
The other one I dont even remember the model. I think its a bq or something like that.
Of like - aesthetically appealing builds - not just parts on a desk looking like a hood-rich flex
Nice, link the part to show what's in it - but even bad b-die is good die
I haven't tried to tweak it yet other than trying to get mixed ram working, but the bdie doesnt seems to want to boot higher than 3200 at xmp volts and timings.
but I have all 4 sticks working at 3200 which is more than I expected to get
I wouldn't really mix sticks either tbh - I'm loving these ballistix 3600 c16 RevE's though, would make a great 4x16 rig on high end once the price drops
deditated wam - minecraft kid
@little osprey why are sleeves bad?
?
@fallow knoll what do you mean?
you mean sleeve bearing fans or psu cable sleeves?
sleeve bearing fans are bottom of the barrel and not designed to last long at all
If PSU death by sleeve bearing fan failure was compared to PSU death by fluid dynamic, or ball bearing failure - it'd be like the difference between your car's left, or right tire suffering a blowout ifrst.
Tires are important, but there are more important components under the hood that I have questions about.
most psu failures or effective failures will be due to a fan failing which will cause a constant tripping of otp or a cap pop if otp isnt in place (which isnt too big of a deal if all other connected part protections are in place).
Well @little osprey i went with EVGA 600 BR, 80+ Bronze 600W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100- BR-0600-K1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DTP6QKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bebMDb3TCQBEQ
@fallow knoll i would pretty heavily suggest against that as it doesnt yet have a full professional psu review and knowing evga's other psu's in similar positions it is more than likely it doesnt have full ocp.
It is being delivered tomorrow :/ what cheap psu as cheap as $60 would you recommend?
commander iii 600w mostly
and cx550w is another option but i would not really recommend it nearly as heavily as the commander iii for most systems
That is a $110 psu
Also, with a Ryzen 5 2600 should I stick with my 8Gb (2 sticks of 4) 2400 mhz or upgrade to 3200 mhz sticks?
better to save up for 16gb instead
The commander iii is $60
You should instead look at both timings and clock as there are 3200mhz kits that are slower than 2400mhz kits
Hell, the slowest ddr4 kit I have seen to date was a 3200mhz kit
It was 3200mhz cl22
Oops meant 16gb. I have 2 8gb stick with 2400mhz.
That is the one I purchased a while back from someone on letgo and have beem using it. Is it decent enough to keep or no?
Its brand is Ballistix
Zen+ doesn’t like fast ram as much as Zen2, I’d say keep it
But Zen+ does like fast memory cause i noticed a performance difference when going from 2400MHz memory to 3000MHz memory
but is it worth $70?
zen eats up my 3600
for faster memory of course
So I am building my computer right now, I have the Rosewill Cube Mini ITX/Micro-ATX/ATX Mid Tower Gaming PC Computer Case, and I have the Gigabyte B450M DS3H Motherboard. I installed the motherboard, but there is no place to plug my case fans in. And with my EVGA 600 BR it doesn't have a place for me to plug the case fans in either. Anyone know what to do.
There are 3 case fans and the cpu fan. The cpu fan is in one and then one case fan is in the other
Two of my fans arent running
do you have a fan hub
No. How much does one cost?
usually pretty cheap
Yea, but just wanted to get other options too.. have the same set in mind... was thinking about a set not many would get??
Finally someone else that realizes that getting trident a rgb 10ns ram kits is a good way to waste money
But I think the olloy kit is $10 cheaper on some other site based on pcpp
@sweet charm dont look at just the clock
Plenty of 3600mhz kits arent even 10ns
And as a result are effectively slower
Yea I know, but need it for ryzen 3rd gen
Doesnt change a thing
Third gen ryzen doesnt magically ignore the effective latency
Yes it does😂😂😂
I know
Tryna get the fastest speed possible with the lowest latency possible too
@sweet charm both clock and timings relate to the effective latency of the ram
generally 10ns is the best point to target
cheap and usually will be fast enough
and many 10ns kits will use higher end dies like e dies
Oh okay
You help him next time then
@scarlet spear i was agreeing with your recommendation
But you said tridents were a waste of money
Oh you mean literally
A good way to waste money
Not a bad way
@sweet charm olloy carries a 3600 version
What would be the best of the best?
Depends on what you consider the best
Best middle ground is what we’ve been talking about

Didn’t Corsair come out with some new 4600 platinums?
If you're talking about for Ryzen 3000 CPU's then 3600 would be the best to use right now
@scarlet spear i was agreeing with the olloy
Oh I see
the trident kit is just overpriced for the speed it is at
I want the $600 set
😁😁
But
I only got a budget of like 200-250
Want to use it all up
200-250 for ram?
Could get you some RAM and then water cool it. I am going to be doing it in my new build.
You take the RAM and strip it on the heat sink or buy it without it and put theirs on and add the top part.
Although you want to go with non-rgb DIMMs with just side heatsinks.
that doesnt seem to even run any liquid to a block over dies so that isnt too good of a deal nor would it at all be effective
and you have used this and know?
not to mention making that sharp of a turn with hard tubing that fast would not be easy and it will basically create a hot box over the ram dies while not also kill a good portion of the loops flow rate
Do you even water cool at all?
yes and that should be apparent by now
looked at all hte images and no liquid seems to flow past the dies
it simply has a small effectively flow impeder that touces the top layer with liquid which isnt where any hotspots will be
try putting it on a wetbench and testing it before you try and give an opinion on it.
so unless you run -30c liquid through it the heat gap wont be enough to rapidly dissipate the heat
wait a minute, were't you the guy who tried to argue ek is good?
trust me when i say you may want to take some outside advice on this and save your money
your loop will thank you and so will your ram as it wont have a hotbox blocking multiple angles of airflow from passing the heat spreaders
is my OPINION inside advice now?
You have never used the product to say what it will do it is all your opinion. I however have tested it and know that is not the case.
your opinion on anon subjective topic is not really relevant. the dies objectively aren't on the top of the ram sticks and this isn't a debate and the thing objectively isn't running liquid past the side
i would like to see the flow of your loop before and after installing the thing and the temp on your ram before and after (more to see you try and gather the data than because i think it will be of use to your "opinion")
Go get you some and test it yourself. Gain some knowledge. I did my homework when it came out.
this i doubt
especially considering the idea that no liquid or compartment allows any flow past the dies seemingly was a new revelation to you
you see, when someone extensively researches a product they will at the very least understand flaws and details that can be spotted merely with a simple glance
it would be like me "extensively researching" primochill vue only to somehow not notice it is an opaque fluid
although i had to give it short use cycles in order to avoid it thickening
How is knowing the creator of a video game relevant to pc parts? What sense does that make? @agile gust and he isn’t just some know it all, he actually gives viable reasoning behind his statement then just saying “I’ve done my research” which you clearly haven’t.
well honestly nobody's given any proof in these arguments, so they could be making it up
and saying ek is bad, yes blocks like heat killer 4’s may be a little better, but it will have little impact on the performance
Very little is a broad statement in terms of general performance
Very broad sums up all the arguments
Ah, the adventure of arguments. What an amazing thing
popcorn just said ek was bad, never gave any proof, and never gave any better alternatives
Other then the obvious competition for watercooling. People sleep on Koolance and Byksi or however you spell em. Obviously we have heatkiller and that’s just 3 companies to name. EK is only popular because they have an amazing marketing team. But their lead designers are horrible and lack the common sense to “copy” the better companies while still overpricing the components
With EK you arnt paying for the component, you are paying for the name. And the name is quickly fading as other companies are gaining traction
But then again, their marketing team, will swoop in an save the day and that’s how we see “ All EK system” videos
Same with asus with their ohhh so powerful “strix” aspect
im not arguing against that, I think that’s a good and valid point
im just saying I’d like to see proof and statistics on the points
If I had the time and cared enough about the argument (sleepy time soon) then I would provide spec charts. Maybe catch me at a later time.
i wasn’t talking about you, I was just talking about in general the lack of evidence. So far it’s just “x is better, don’t get y” with some reasons but no proof
@deep skiff I gave my top picks as alternatives in the past such as xspc and bykski and I also sent a list of the common issues almost all ek blocks share.
Note this is the worst block design bykski has as the fins arent in the flow direction
So the fact that almost every ek block loses to it is pretty sad
by a fraction of a Celsius.
@sudden turret the gap grows while you have a larger loop with more parts and the flow goes down and you are pushing warmer parts that are harder to cool
Not to mention that bottom end bykski block also has a lower flow impedance than any of the ek blocks
Also, when you charge the price EK does, you expect it to win even if it’s a fraction of a Celsius. No excuses here @sudden turret
^
charging the most and having the worst quality and some of the worst performance numbers isn't really something to be proud of
@lime forge the thing is that the block there is a block that goes as low as $50 and is their lowest tier block
yet it all around beats ek in not impeding flow and beats almost all of ek's blocks in performance
Kinda want that bykski gpu block ngl
this is a cpu block comparison
but their gpu blocks are amazing too
I know, I've just been looking around at options on ebay/amazon
just harder to find individual comparisons for gpu blocks as there are so many variations per pcb
Ya, usually you see blocks for FE , asus, and EVGA most often - others sometimes, but less so.
Not my taste - but smart move on corsair standardizing their microfin fab to cut costs.
corsair uses modified asetek blocks for their custom loop parts
they dont actually really make anything themselves other than the shell
sort of like their aios lol
On the hydro x line? I know the rads/tubing were hardwarelabs/other
Hey guys so i just finished building my pc, i installed windows and everything was good. I turned it off and an hour later when o start is it just keeps loading. I checked the booting option and its set to UEFI: window boot manager (m.2 ......)
Any ideas what could be the problem
I'm really confused my case tells me that in order for the mobo to control the rgb fans that come in the case I need to plug in a cable to a header which I already did
I keep trying what that manual tells me and nothing
Any ideas it doesn't register them in the setup either but they spin
Lol, forgot - best move it here
@round flare are you sure that the correct pins are in the correct spot. rgb if not argb will have a 12v, red, green, and blue pin and you have to make sure the correct outs co to the correct ins
IIRC the board/connector have an arrow on the +12V common anode
@wind lark performance comes first over looks
Yeah it has vega 11 graphics for now but im gonna get an rx 590 for christmas
@latent bronze noctua ceo be like
Well there is a lot of great cases out there with great airflow and it isn't anything fancy
If someone wanted a little bit of looks and performance i would honestly suggest this case https://www.newegg.com/petrol-blue-fractal-design-focus-g-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811352073
@wind lark Go a little higher like a RX 5700
@little osprey sorry for the late reply, this is what the case manual says
And I don't know why the picture turned upside down lmao
I lined up the arrow like it said on the 12v grb header
It doesn't let me switch it
to any modes
If the case/board/fans doesn't come with the included wire you have to buy it yourself
@round flare it is possible your rgb strip could use a different pattern for the colors so try to manually wire it if you have to
if the issue is the wrong color occurring that is
no the issue is it's stuck in the same color and the motherboard won't control them not that they're the wrong color
they're stuck at full blast and it's annoying
the case does come with that cable
I plugged it in like it says
what motherboard is it?
some dont have software controlled rgb headers and will just feed a single color signal through the rgb header
Msi X570-A Pro
@round flare what are you trying to light up
Did you plug them into the RGB header?
It would look something like this https://c1.neweggimages.com/NeweggImage/ProductImageCompressAll1280/12-987-031-01.jpg
the connector on the right side would go into the RGB header
Is the rgb header on the back side
because there's this thing I have nothing plugged into
it's in like this little panel all the fans are plugged into
I can't explain but I have that cable
I'll see if that's where I'm supposed to put it
normally the headers would be located here https://i.gyazo.com/5784b73e20895be04f7fd69228e5c276.png
sometimes on the bottom
ye
your mb manual is your best friend when plugging all those cables in
it'll prob help you the most
I've looked at it and the only thing it tells me is cpu and m.2 installation
try to understand and follow it, and if you dont understand certain things, you can ask people here, but usually it should help you understand everything
did you look through all of it?
https://i.gyazo.com/211e369925d96b0a6dcba847382b9c88.png straight from his manual and already i see 2 RGB headers
same
one of them highlighted
take a picture of what you have plugged in
if it doesn't look similar to the connector i mentioned then you have it wrong
Give me a few need finish some stuff up
ok
The fans are also hooked up to the fan headers on the board or are they being powered by the PSU
Are those the fan headers
4 pin little cable XD
yeah the makes sense sorry it's my first build
I can't see anything like that though
for my first build, i tried to understand as much as i could in the manual, then plugged whatever it said to plug in lol
i already knew what to plug for the cpu and whatnot, only things that took more thinking was where the smaller cables plugged into the mb
Do I look for the manual online because the only one I have is the quick install
it should come with your mb
It will actually say fan on it
Will it damage my pc if it’s on the carpet?
no
Just dust

Dust 2 is better
^
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xfkrHB i think im gonna settle on this o: gonna start buying this coming weekend
im still open for any suggestions though, if any, thanks ^^
gonna be my first build so im still a little nervous teehee
oh and also theres like a note/compatibility thing, if anyone would like to explain it a little more or i guess suggest on what to change
@quaint terrace get the rx 5700xt gaming x, $17 shipping is too high and it performs the same as the nitro+
MSI gaming x? O: oooh
opinions on reselling my old pc: 2 4gb rx 480s, i-6700k aio cooled, 16gb ram, 256gb ssd, 1tb hdd, z170-k asus mobo, 850w
Prices?
500$
psu bronze, it's just a 120mm
I was mainly looking more on the CPU, GPU and the 8gb of memory
16gb u mean
of gpu mem)
he said 2 4gb
oh ic vram
sounds good 🙂 thanks
Looking at my current build what should I upgrade first and what to https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fy96hg
cpu
3400G is a good APU if you are trying to cut corners on cost
3600
what about 2700x
3600 is 10%+ faster than 2700x and about same price
and your board natively supports the new ryzens
I don't run any intensive games besides d2 which is the only one that takes a bot of a toll
*bit
yes I'm on a budget
RX 570 is still a good GPU but i would go for Sapphire over MSI
yeah thats a great price for a 3600
Hey guys I’m trying to get a a wish list for stuff to save up to I was wondering what you guys think is the best pc possible to build at the moment
@valid heron what price range?
can't do much about the gpu I already bought it and I got a great deal at 130 I think
yeah thats a good price for a 8gb card
oh ok
@deep skiff unlimited
@deep skiff go crazy
Unlimited
just for me for now on i am only going to buy GPU's that specializes in that GPU brand type
W H A T
which is why for my 1660 i went for EVGA
Crossfire titan rtx's
sorry I'm bad at pc'ing
oh boy here comes my x570 aqua build imma have fun
was someone buying a 3600
me sir but not this instant
Ah - I was just gonna link the discount and promo code - both are in tech deals
Unfortunately won't be able to right now but it's definitely the first thing I'm gonna upgrade before the end of the year
I think he sound something better than a promo code
microcenter
but seeing that go on sale again is like the lottery
they have too many things
anybody know how much ram the x570 aqua can support?
64gb i believe
Wait is that the white board with water cooling I saw on bitwit
i thought it was 128 but idk
i haven't looked at memory too much so if there is 32gb sticks then yes it would
if its the most overkill build its gotta have that board
so are you gonna sli rtx titans
Yah if you guys can send me your favorite build I would appreciate it
If i won the lotto i would build a water loop system with that board
would make things easier as well
and for the case i would use that one from Lian Li
I would get elon musk to build me an ice cooled case
wait what would happen if you put a pc in a vacuum
like an air vacuum I mean
There are people that has built a PC inside of a freezer before
This i find would be the best case for easier to build water loop cooling with the ASRock Aqua https://i.ytimg.com/vi/GceR7tKrtjQ/maxresdefault.jpg
here you go
also this was me looking at prices only ok don't hurt me
Idk much about pc
sli'd 2080 ti's are better than sli'd rtx titans for some reason
you mean hybrid
you can replace it with a waterblock easily
they designed it with customizing it in mind
Well one thing is for sure i would still be cheap if i won the lotto cause i would use a 2060 super lol
nothing wrong with saving money
ya but if you won 50 million dollars that is just being cheap even after spending 1000$ on a motherboard lol
oh and putting a Ryzen 5 3600 in it lol
I would call it the cringe worthy system lol
raspberry pi is my rig after winning the lottery
I already own the Pi 3, 3B+ and 4 (with 2gb of memory)
what can it run
3 and 3B+ you can run RetroPie which is retro games and the Pi 4 since that OS isn't out yet can use it for browsing and media
Thanks for the help you guys
@lime forge What do you think?
i think that graphics card is cutting it real close 😬
other than that, its very clean
lmao
if you replaced the case it'd look much better tho
idk I found it online
it looks very nice, just the case could be improved
thought ti was pretty impressive to fit it in
it was
Hi Guys! I was wondering if someone could help me with a laptop configuration/specs comparison between 2 devices
I am considering buying the ASUS Zenbook Flip laptop. There are 2 choices that I have: Zenbook Flip S or Zenbook Flip 14.
The Newegg website is selling both (which appear to have identical specs), but have a $300 price difference. Could someone take a look at the two links below and help me understand if there are any major differences in the devices? If not, I may as well go for the cheaper one.
Here are the links for both devices. I was wondering if there is any major difference between the two.
screen size, connectivity (first has 2x usb 3.1 type a and 1x usb c, the second has 2x usb c), screen size, and the second one has an older kaby lake cpu, honestly i am unsure why it is more expensive, but i am missing something
the first one has a newer cpu that has a slightly higher turbo
first one = first link?
yes
Another thing I noticed was Whiskey Lake
Not sure how important or significant that is.
To me, the cheaper one is more appealing because it has an HDMI port.
and the larger screen size
although I wonder if there is an actual difference in the display material used for the touch screens on both devices. I am not familiar with this tech at all.
i'm not sure what i am missing on the flip s (second link) that makes it more expensive as the first link is technically newer
i'
am not either, sorry, i was just reading off the spec sheet
it appears on paper that the first one is "better"
which makes me wonder why it's $200 less
Me too. Upon further research, I learnt that both laptops were released last year. The blue is a few months newer than the grey
i don't know if there's a different case material i am missing
but technically, the grey one seems ahead. IDK
that is strange, the grey one has a newer cpu
Quite strange.
as far as i can tell the only difference is the cpu, the ports, and the size of the screen
and the weight I guess.
especially if the first one has the extra ports, it's cheaper and newer, technically faster cpu (although to be fair the impact of that extra 600MHz boost is probably somewhat insignificant in every day use)
yeah, but that's by virtue of larger screen and case
yeah, I figured a difference of that much is actually insignificant.
i'd presume they may have different SSDs inside but the tangible impact of that is insignificant
lol, thank you! you are making my decision so much easier
i keep looking at it to make sure i'm not missing something glaring but i think the first one is definitely the better buy
GREY:
14-inch LED-backlit Full HD (1920 by1080)
NTSC:72%, wide 100% sRGB color gamut
178° wide-view technology
1,000:1 Dynamic contrast ratio
ASUS Eye Care technology for up to 30% blue-light reduction
7.15mm-thin bezel with 80% screen-to-body ratio
BLUE:
13.3” LED-backlit Full HD (1920 x 1080)
60Hz refresh rate, wide 100% sRGB colour gamut
178° wide-view technology
Corning® Gorilla® Glass
ASUS Eye Care technology for up to 30% blue-light reduction
6.11mm-thin bezel with 80% screen-to-body ratio
Found another difference. Blue one claims to have gorilla glass while grey doesn't.
Not sure how to compare the displays. If you know anything about the display specs above, I'd really appreciate your input
@uneven elm Are you looking into gaming?
No, just regular use. For university, work and a little bit of photoshop here and there.
so Microsoft office suit heavy
then have you looked at the razer blade?
I have not.
it may have more cores or a better screen for cheaper
see if you like
well built with i7 with gaming on the side if you want
or razer blade 15
I am sure this has been talked to to death by sooo many people... but Intel i9 9900 vs AMD 3900x. Intel is less expensive and runs roughly the same as 3900x. I do a lot of film editing and so far, my i7 8700 isn’t to bad. Intel seems good, but I am just wondering if the more cores/ threads is worth it over Intels higher Ghz.
I also have the motherboard and fan for an intel cpu so, as I am looking to upgrade, I am having to keep that in mind. AMD = new Mobo, Cpu, and fan. Intel upgrade= New cpu and that’s it.
Are you sure that your CPU is the bottleneck?
What's your CPU, GPU, RAM, SSD usage/speeds looking like while you edit?
Also, have you tried overclocking the CPU you've got?
As of right now: i7 8700 (not the K), Nividia 1080, 16GB, 1 tb ssd/ 4tb hdd. My ram seems to be the culprit (which is why I just bought 32 gb and is coming today). I put ram at 10 gb max on premiere and it is hitting that max. I’m not just editing 720 or 1080 vids. I’m doing 4K edits with a lot of overlays. I’m not an expert on how adobe works with cpus but, I’d say those extra cores and threads would really help in this case. GPU isn’t really helpful.... I also game a lot and during this past Modern Warfare beta, the game was using 45% ram, 90-99% cpu, and 20% GPU. I am noticing that with newer games and updates for games, CPU’s are getting heavier work loads. More than the gpus, which is weird to me.
@scarlet edge
@golden forge Here is a good video to check out which compares benchmarks between the similarly priced 3900x and 9900k. 3900x seems to take the lead but you will need to consider the extra cost of a new motherboard, extra build time, etc. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqQ2X1y0jvw&feature=youtu.be&t=616
For the AMD R9 3900X CPU review, we're focusing first on production workloads (Adobe Premiere, Photoshop, Blender, V-Ray, et al.) and secondarily on gaming. ...
Yeah. Thats why I am looking at the intel. HOWEVER.... the mobo I have now would suck if I used it for the 9900. The years between them and the updated parts to help the 9900 run smoother isn't there on my mobo. So, either way, I am looking at getting a new mobo if I want to upgrade to anything ( 9900 and 3900x specifically).
if what you're doing scales more with cores, then it's a pretty easy choice, but if it scales with raw speed you're probably going to be best suited staying with the intel build
I just tonight replaced my psu and now my pc won’t boot past the bios...any ideas ?
Ryzen 2700
32gb Corsair
Evga 750 g5
Gigabyte x470 ultra gaming
check the connection to the mobo and drives
They are good took them back off and reconnected
any errors?
Kernel something or another is the only one I could catch otherwise it was a quick bsod and bios also says preparing automatic repair after that happens
I’m in bed atm...I gave up have to work in the am I can when I get home from work tomorrow
suspects are either power to mobo or cpu if you just did psu only
I know after the last windows update it’s crashed quite a bit with kernel stuff
Yeah psu only
The ssd that it boots on is kinda old
try to boot from a install USB
I did...freezes at boot part
weird
I’ll get the exact error code after work tomorrow thank you for helping
And yeah I’m lost as to wtf is going on
np man. hopefully its something that can be traced easily
I wanna try not to bring it in to a shop
It's probably PSU failure.
If you specifically replaced that part and that part only.
Did you perhaps accidentally plug a pci-e 8 pin in the CPU 8 pin plug?
I've done that more than once after a long day of fiddling
If you show the plug I can tell right away
Idk how or why but let it sit over night and it booted right up
perhaps a bios reset with power off
I have a weird glitch where my sound hardware legit desyncs untill I hard boot then reboot once hot and then its fine
Definitely weird for sure
Well at least I get to finish it now when I get home from work
This is a bit unacceptable LOL
aw man that'll be behind a panel lol
just SMASH it in there
(not what you should actually do)
Reason: Bad word usage
I bent a panel trying that. dont do that XD
i definitely did too but i was fed up with the garbage corsair case
so it earned that
cable extensions will help on my next build
I got the case for free so I can’t complain about it
I appreciate everyone helping out
sorry, just being a smart alec lol
Nah your good I dish it out so I can take it as well 😉
dear mighty tech jesus. Bless me with SSD's for my build for these HD's are outdated and sloooow
i need 2 1 tb's and a hybrid Storage drive for other things
Are nvme drives worth it compared to a regular ssd
i have picked up two 1tb 860 evos for i think $130? each i think
yea. they fast and out of the way
if they're same price or cheaper, or slightly more expensive (~10%) i say definitely
it depends on what particular drive but generally yeah
I got 2 more months of working till my credit cards are flat so I can buy them
I have a new egg card lol
my 950 pro from my skylake build in 2016 was almost $1.25usd/GB but i just picked up a 1tb 970 evo plus for $194
256gb 950 pro
This just happened
i can't seem to pull up my receipt from my 950 pro but it was comically expensive compared to now
That’s the one I got last night
The kernel security check failure happens due to:
Memory problems
Outdated drivers
Viruses
Corrupted Windows system files
Security programs
A damaged or corrupted hard disk
that could be a lot of things
gonna guess. mem, hard disk, or OS issues
Now it won’t boot past bios again
start with memory first I guess
i guess start with what you can, disable any overclock or memory xmp
It’s all factory I reset it all last night
reseat your ram
start with 1 stick at a time
stupid thing like that is you could have something as dumb as a sata cable failing
This is with 1 stick of ram


