#cases-psu-and-cooling
1 messages · Page 27 of 1
I mean unless you're getting a 2080Ti you dont need a 650w
https://www.jonnyguru.com/blog/2017/06/26/cougar-gx-s650-650w-power-supply/3/
Says it's a sirfa so bekora seems right
as 3700x+2080Ti+system is 575w
3700x+2080S+system is 500w
So a 550w would be fine for anything lower than a 2080Ti
With the coupon I got that for 60, seems like a good deal to me
That's 20 cheaper than the Corsair cx550
I mean, cx550 is $65 at newegg (out of stock tho) and $70 on amazon. A bit cheaper tho
Oh I was looking at the cx550m I guess
Anyone know any decent Cases that have a good amount of usb 3.1 (C or A) ports and is a decent price?
Well what's 'decent'? 70$? 100$?
under $100 would be nice, as cheap as possible though
buy a cheap case and get a 3.1 usb hub 😉
I mean, that's not a bad idea 😛
its just you are going to pay to get those usb 3.1 ports
and you can set the hub on top
uh no
read it wrong
the answer is still no get a 3600 for 189.99
not x
you can overclock the 3600 just like the 3600x
ok
not locked like intel
yeah the 3600 is quite better then the 2700x
Yup
i'm getting a 2600 because i am cheap and have a lot to buy
next month is BIG EXPENSIVE NVMe SSD
maybe also RAM but that might be pushing my budget
Anni, wait for Christmas sales for big boi NVMe SSD
they'll drop in price
like under $100 for 1TB if you wait
I had a 520W modular psu but I wonder if it is enough to power the computer if I upgrade a AMD motherboard, ram and Ryzen 3700X?
what's the GPU?
depends on the gpu, and what power supply it is too
Currently using a GTX970. Maybe changing to AMD 5700XT soon.
what power supply is it?
Seasonic M12 II EVO 520W PSU
I'd be a little skeptical of running a 5700xt off that
seasonic is a good brand, but not everything they make is amazing
it's not the worst power supply, but it isn't very good either
As for a 970 and 3700x... maybe?
You're taking a gamble imo but it's probably fine
If it is not safe, I would probably just get a new pc, rather than upgrading one since almost all the component except hard disk might need replacing.
you can always cannibalize old parts
that's kind of a part of the culture surrounding PC building at least in my experience, is to always make sure old parts are used, if not by yourself, then by your friend or acquaintance. I give people parts and sometimes entire PCs that i've replaced, with no hesitation.
@steel portal tbh, that PSU is actually dangerous in some situations. More of higher workloads tho. So it is pretty close to borderline worse. Better than the PSUs that blow up straight in your face tho
like more of a 700w MII
Is it? I find the PSU to be ok. It lasted that long but I know that the power supply might not be enough. Perhaps enough to change the motherboard and CPU but not enough for gpu since the newer gpu seemed to consume more electric than my old one.
lacks in a lot of important modern protections, and is group regulated iirc
Anyone here used the Lian Li PC-o11 air?
Or the dynamic? They have the same inside dimensions. I want to do air cooling, but have some concerns about the listed 155 mm max CPU cooler height.
@lofty pewter sorry, which psu? The seasonic? Or the cougar I bought? 
@steel portal seasonic one
Yeah, that's why I said I'd be skeptical of running a 5700xt on it. They can pull over 200w with some AIB models.
Pretty sure max is 260w for the XT
MX330-G is a good case?
For the price it's solid. Doesn't have any usb 3.1 though.
doesnt i have usb 3 tho?
i dont have a motherboard
well, what are you planning to get?
something something am4 so yes
yeah it'll have at least 3.0 then
there's nothing inherently wrong with the case -- doesn't seem hard to build in
it even has a psu shroud
I regret buying the corsair cube last year for my build. My custom loop is cramped
Anyone know a good cheap midtower case
New to building and PC's as a whole but I'm going to build a new pc over the next summer, I was wondering what cooling solution would be best for an overclocked R7 3700x, I a thinking about the be quiet dark rock 4, but I started looking into aios, and I was wondering what rad size I should get, 1,2, or 3 fans (I'll be getting an h500i)
240-280mm
Only do 360-380 (3 fan) if
1: your case is compatible
2: you have a flexible budget
3: you really want one for some reason
You generally only need them for HEDT (high end desktop) CPUs which can put out upwards of 200w of heat
should i buy 2 more case fans for the top, or ugrade from my back 120mm aio to a 240mm one
id want my fans to match the 2 i already have as intake
Well idk then
Keep in mind a 120mm is typically barely if at all better than air cooling
i got it for free
I'm not trying to give you buyers remorse, just something to keep in mind with 120 vs 240
well yeah, but i got it for free so i cant really complain
could i theoretically take the aio part off an aio and just use the rad?
...yes
It's usually somewhat painful as you wouldn't have a reservoir to get the air out
So you would have to do it with the block and pipes fully submerged
i'm getting a second fan for the front of my case
second 144mm fractal design dynamic something something
Why is it so hard to find a case that has good airflow bur also doesn't look "gamery". I want to game without making an RGB monument to my virginity in the corner of my room.
Best I could find so far is the SL600M from Cooler Master.
FD meshify C or S2
the basic phanteks P400A doesn't have RGB fans, only the more expensive SKU does. although it also comes with fewer fans
or you could just turn off the RGB
That was actually the first case I was looking at, but it's thermal performance isn't as good, and to make it as good you need to include x3 120mm fans, increasing the DBa beyond acceptable levels.
A case with 200mm fans pushes more air with less rmp.
But almost every case with 200mm fans has this weird industrial RGB nuclear dogshit look to it.
140mm fans are plenty quiet imo
high quality 200mm fans are pretty niche, probably why they don't come with cases
are you thinking like cooler master h500?
i guess it is pretty ugly
That airflow is unbeatable though. The difference between the 200mm Cooler Master cases and the Fractals are as much as 10 degrees with half the noise.
It's so ugly
I need something grey-white-black/metalic/boring looking with good thermals
When a lady enters my bedroom, I want her to see "workstation" not "playstation".
a p400a with a couple good 140mm fans in the front is probably as good as you'll get
or any of the mesh front FDs
I'll probably get the SL600M and replace the fans with dual 200mm nocturas.
Horizontal 200mm fans shouldn't suffer the same speed of degradation as vertical.
Reason: Bad word usage
that works too. the noctua ones should hold up well
anything with PWM fans is silent until you max out the graphics card anyway
i'm grabbing an extra fan for my ITX case, 2x140mm with 1x120mm exhaust, it should be very good on static pressure - keeping the dust out and cooling both
yo so my psu is about 4 years old now and when i turn my pc on it makes a rather loud rattling noise any help?
replace your PSU it is dangerous
it BOMB
go BOOM
not really, but pull the psu out of the pc, jump start it, and see if the noise persists. Then check to see if theres anything caught in or near the PSU fan
thanks
yeah replace that ASAP
actually just take it out of your pc
it could literally be a bomb
he's joking, but I've seen that happen
first hand
they go up in flames if they fail catastrophically
@steel portal I’d be cautious when sending amazon links it shows your post code
do yall know if theres that big a difference between h200 and h200i
nzxt case
other than CAM
one has the cam stuff and pretty sure that’s about it
but I’d go with the h210/i because it’s newer and should be cheaper (h200 is old stock)
h200 is 49 bucks rn
i can get h200i for 10 more dollars
problem is, the h200i that is still in stock is red color, the h200 has my fav color, blue
so idk if i should go with the blue non rgb or red rgb
@scenic lance what? 
@steel portal when I clicked on a link you sent it showed a post code or address
sometimes amazon will show a random postalcode (or whatever it finds from ur ip address without asking for geolocation) but i dont think it stores that in links themselves
So... my PSU's fan died. It was a 70x70x8mm... and dude- talk about near impossible finding it.
that's an odd size
hey guys ^-^ any advice for a case power button that doesn't work? (I've been using the mobo power button to start my pc, but would like to put the last panel on) [this is my first pc build ^-^ ]
I would check if it is plugged in properly
If the actual switch is dead, you can try and contact the manufacturer and get a replacement, or like above mentioned. @scenic lance
How much would you spend on a 500w psu
You can get a 650 for 50
About the same
Hello, sorry for another psu question but if you bought a cheap psu for £20 on ebay and it had 4.6 stars and 34 reviews, would you trust it despite its price?
absolutely not
If you want a cheap psu, get a corsair cx series
I won't recommend anything lower than that
there's so many things that go into a PSU besides wattage and efficiency rating
I've personally seen power supplies catch fire from skimping out on them, taking the whole pc with them.
Don't be that guy.
Ok thanks
Yes. Never ever go cheap on a PSU. They are the "heart" of the PC. If they go, they can easily take out other components such as mobo, cpu, gpu.
To add to that, really cheap PSUs can send wrong voltages to components even when it works fine. Over time this will cause components to fail.
arg why is the snowblind case no tin canada??? 😢
I know, I want the case, but it's on on the canadian site 😦
and it's on sale for $200 right now @jaunty magnet
uhhhh
Reason: Bad word usage
no idea, it just says price drop
Hey guys. I'm soon to be doing my first custom build. I'm going with the Cooler Master MasterBox MB530P and EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G+ 80 Plus Gold. In anyone's experience do the included cables with this PSU usually have enough length for proper cable routing/management or will I likely need an extension kit?
Getting a mediocre PSU at 750w? If I were using close up to that wattage I'd get a better PSU
^^ there are better options like the corsair RMx 750
has anyone gotten hands on with the snowblind case? is there an option to mount the gpu's in the show off position?
you can get this
it doesnt have one built in but you can get that and mount it vertically
Please stop giving your personal opinions on the "quality" of the psu and/or which one "you" think I should buy and please just address the actual question I asked. Thank you.
Besides, I don't see how a 750 watt 80+ gold rated $120 psu is "mediocre".
esp the g+ which a top psu reviewer suggests it's closer to platinum than gold..but hey, keep fanboying corsair
@hushed yoke seen those, that's only for a single. curious if you can do dual
^Thank you. Anyway the actual question was commonly is there enough cable length for a proper/well managed build or will I need an extension kit.
That's all I asked.
@pliant hound There was no point or need for your statement. You answer was like me asking will I get better in game framerates at low/competitive settings in BR's with a 2070 Super and a 9700k or 3700x and you answering with "The 3700x is the better value because of HT support and better multi core performance is certain application scenarios" it doesn't matter if the statement is true or not it has nothing to do with the very straightforward question.
$120 for that powerful of a psu is a lower end psu, he was being honest lol
So, can you please just answer my question if you know the answer?
thank you kanye, very cool
ya so for 20 dollars more you get a much better psu, lol
Once again, do you even know the answer to my question or are you all just know-it-all's that don't know?
not worth it..just ask @scenic lance what he thinks
Actually looking at the specs and reviews I see no compatible differences between the two. Now again, do you actually know the answer to my actual question or are you just going to keep arguing about what "I" should buy because you said so?
comparable*
Also better in this respect is subjective. I've owned many Corsair products from peripherals to psus to coolers and most if not all of them have failed due to defects.
But any day now someone might actually answer the question I actually asked. Let me know.
pretty sure you're just unlucky
Pretty sure I didn't ask.
👀
Do you know the answer to my question or not?
So your plan is to come in here and be a complete knob to people who gave their opinion which you could have ignored and moved on. and then ask for help. lol
I'm not being anything. I asked an extremely straightforward question and received arguing about what I should and shouldn't buy with my money. I have good reason for choosing what I chose and I don't need to deal with your god complexes or mental issues.
As for your question, ignoring your being a dink. That's a pretty small case as far as gaming cases go, the psu cable will reach fine
Just wanted a simple answer to a simple question.
Thank you for finally answering my question instead of forcing your personal opinions on me.
Have a great day.
Dude you need to chill and walk away
blocked. Move along
Thanks for the answer.
Blocked omg I'm dying inside.
Work out your mental health issues.
Later.
so somebody is trying to suggest a better purchase and you say they have mental issues which is a real problem that people kill themselves about?
Oh FFS, let it go. Convo is over
:/ that was my first statement
rule 9 no ebegging
@wary night if you think wattage and rating is what makes a PSU, please look at voltage ripple, protections, multi railing, cross loads, temperature tolerance, fan quality, build quality, and bridge type
@rare phoenix you as well
Also note voltage ripple and efficiency changes upon temps, you need to check for both cold and hot temps
Last note, need to consider coil whine as well
Just because I made note of these doesn't mean that G+ has issues with all of these. However I can very well say that the g+ is a medcore PSU by today's standards. If it weren't for Bitfenix being hit by what I assume would be tarrifs I would've told you to go over with them instead of Corsair tbh. But rn Corsair has been the goto choice for a lot of the pricing categories as they are generally the best purchase at many budget categories
Does anyone have enough experience building in the mx330 enough to know if there is enough space for a hyper 212 style cooler?
@velvet wyvern the evo is 159mm tall and the clearance in the mx330 is 155mm
same goes for the other 212 variants. they vary between 158mm and 161mm
@lofty pewter not sure why you're bringing up an almost day old discussion, but the difference between corsair and evga is negligible. both have dual ball bearing fans, both have 100% japanese capacitors, both have 10 year warranties. Check out jonnyguru..look at both the g+ and the rmx corsair. You fanbois are pathetic. If you can save money compared to the other, then save money.
Thank you @tender root
@velvet wyvern you are very welcome :)
Yep. Basically the same. Exactly why the EVGA has Bad transient response, Inaccurate power-good signal, Low power factor readings.
Some of this was due to using an old bridge that also wasn't configured correctly afaik
@rare phoenix
Which EVGA model? What's inside? Not one of the superflower leadex units?
G+
Also I done goof on listing the issues as those were G1+ issues, hopefully not G+ issues
E
PCPartpicker says my estimated wattage is 275W for the build I'm gonna do. My question here - I will upgrade my PSU when I upgrade my PC as a whole, so what is the cheapest, but very reliable PSU I can get?
I would have recommended Corsair but I experienced first hand their current lack of quality control. If you want reliability Seasonic is the way to go, but they are generally pricier.
Seasonic has issues
M12/S12 are horrible
Focus series has had issues on 3.3v/5v rails before
Seasonic highest end stuff is currently the only worthy stuff worth buying
Bit harsh, no? I think most of their lineup deserves fair consideration when shopping around.
some consideration. But there are usually better options. Also as per usual, im quite harsh on PSUs
I'm gonna come in here and blow minds with my 5 year old Thermaltake TR2
Or older.......
absolutely smallest case I could fit a Geforce gtx 1080ti in? thoughts?
I’d recommend trying to get a high quality thermal take, most of them can fit anything but a RDX in them and are efficiently designed.
@fallen pine
anyone know what radiator i can sif in the Phanteks PH-ES217E_AG EVOLV Shiftf
for a cpu cooler?
just be careful... my case said it could fit a 240mm rad up top but it doesnt fit
unless i dont plug in my cpu power cables lol
NZXT kraken m22 is my recommendation
ok thanks
do u think that transporting the pc around would a problem with watercooling?
no just the cpu
with kraken m22
was thinking of taking the pc on plane so it might be a lil rough

Is this psu tier list credible?
https://www.gamingscan.com/psu-hierarchy/
it looks roughly accurate but there's a few head scratchers in there
Which one are you refering to, if you don't mind mentioning them.
EVGA G2 and Bitfenix Whisper M/Formula Gold being in the same tier
same with Seasonic Focus Gold series
Bitfenix should be on a higher tier (lack of amount of tiers maybe?) edit: nvm, there are enough tiers
Seaonic S12/M12 are rated way too high. They should be quite a bit lower, last to second last teir
pretty sure Be Quiet Straight Straight power should be above their Pure Power, but it isnt
Also Corsair CX is rated too high. Yes it is the best budget PSU, no is it worthy of second tier
On average tho it gives a rather vague idea of how good the PSU is. Tho there are a few that are far off (Seasonic M12/S12 for example)
Yeah, I was thinking of that too. and it was bronze too which made me curious how it made its way up there.
bronze/gold/plat doesnt mean much
That CX certainly beats out some gold PSUs
but again, second tier is a bit much for what it is
Lets say my current setup is this:
CPU: Intel Xeon E3 1231V3 (chg to AMD Ryzen 3600/ 3700X)
MOBO: ASrock B85M-HDS (chg to MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX)
RAM: GSKill AEGIS 8GB DDR3 1600mhz (prob chg to . G.Skill TridentZ Neo 16GB DDR4-3600 kit or 8GBx2)
HDD: WD 1TB Caviar Blue HDD
GPU: Leadtek GTX970 Hurricane III 4GB DDR5 (chg to AMD 5700XT)
SSD: Liteon S900 128GB SSD + ADATA SU650 1TB SSD
PSU: Seasonic M12 II EVO 520W PSU (Need to chg)
Chassis: Sharkoon v1000 case
Cooler: Scythe Katana 4
WIFI: Tplink TL-WN881ND 300mbps PCi-E
Wil a 650W PSU be enough or I should go for 750W? any other thing I might need to change or remove?
Are you looking for a PSU that is sufficient for all the parts you want to change to?
Give or take the 650 watt PSU should be fine
If you want some leverage, you can get the 750W just for more upgrade room
Thanks for the input.
No problem
650w is fine for any consumer PC. Even a 3700x + 2080Ti will run off a 650w
Also note, do change that PSU. Seasonic M12 is pretty bad
but it seems like you already know that you need to chage
so good
anyone know the best budget sfx powersupply ? at least like a 600w
everything ive found has been pretty expensive
Whats a suggestion for a case thats... micro ATX? cheap maybe?
I could think as small as the Velka 3 but i'm looking for something on newegg so i can order it all at the same time.
https://www.newegg.com/black-fractal-design-meshify-c-mini-micro-atx-mid-tower/p/N82E16811352086 this isn't super cheap but is good for an experienced builder
https://www.newegg.com/black-cooler-master-masterbox-q300l-micro-atx/p/N82E16811119331 this is super cheap and equally in need of an experienced builder
hey i got a beefy list of cases to chose from
For reference this is the hardware and stuff i plan to put in
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dhYh7T
Inter-Tech X-908 Infini2 ATX Mid Tower Case
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/zk9tt6/inter-tech-x-908-infini2-atx-mid-tower-case-88881240
MSI MPG SEKIRA 500X ATX Mid Tower Case
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xMvqqs/msi-mpg-sekira-500x-atx-mid-tower-case-mpg-sekira-500x
Lian Li LANCOOL II-X ATX Mid Tower Case
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/kRFKHx/lian-li-lancool-ii-x-atx-mid-tower-case-lancool-ii-x
Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Hwkj4D/lian-li-pc-o11dx-atx-full-tower-case-pc-o11dx
Asus ROG Strix Helios ATX Full Tower Case (Would remove my MSI stuff and get ROG stuff)
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FhRzK8/asus-rog-strix-helios-atx-full-tower-case-helios
be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Rev. 2 ATX Full Tower Case (What i have in the list already)
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nVZFf7/be-quiet-dark-base-pro-900-black-rev-2-atx-full-tower-case-bgw15
any input?
first input: samsung QVO drives use QLC flash, which is prone to failure more than SLC/MLC/TLC is, and also when the disk is full the output slows down a lot - it doesn't offer a huge price advantage either, you might want to try an ADATA SU800
second, let me look at these wonderful cases (I know they're all very good, because i recognize them)
those lian-li cases
how the mighty have fallen
no more cool brushed aluminum chassis
that dynamic looks good though
the be quiet case looks the best to me
it's very utilitarian which is kind of what you want from a case
though the dynamic is a close second, i like how much room it has for additional stuff
Need to run 295X2s in Crossfire
where are you getting some of these cases? At least the Asus and full tower lian are no where to be found..Lian you can't buy unless you buy in a prebuilt on ebay or wait til 1/20
Plz recommend a PSU
R9 295X2
I see exactly one GPU
Reason: Bad word usage
thats so much power
900W recommanded
@elder prairie Do you already have the card? bc if not thats a bad card to buy
a single card is basically running 2 different cards in crossfire
IMO it is more of a collectors item then a GPU
No
or 2 295x2 cards in effective crossfire
yea lol
8 GPU in crossfire
and also its 900w recommanded per 295s2 so ehm, I dont even think theres a 3600w psu
holy
is that 4x8
for a single card
I want to see quad crossfire for that card NOW
i mean its a 295X2
its 2 gpu's and those alone ran hot
the reference model comes with an aio :v
There was a bunch of cards in the past where they would have 2 in one but they stopped doing that
You has this one from Asus in the past http://www.ozone3d.net/public/jegx/201108/asus-mars-2-dual-gtx-580-01.jpg
cards like that in the past were cool especially for people that wanted to do crossfire/SLI but only has 1 GPU slot
But now since Crossfire and SLI are pretty much pointless companies really don't make cards like that anymore
@vocal talon what’s special about that aio is it only have a 120mil rad
And 2 pumps
And somehow they managed to cool that thing down
yeah
If it works, it works
Lol
Kingpin want those pcie power connectors XD
What if, you somehow used a converter and connected like mobo main power to that GPU
Then something would blow up
Username I think you can get by with a 1600W power supply
because for the second card you don't have to take into consideration system power
as you already have with the first
1600W would really just be a safety thing
but the question is, can you find a power supply with 8x8pin GPU power?
i've got barely enough to handle my EPS12V and two 8pin on a 750W
so 3
even a 1600W might not have that much
you might need to find two power supplies with four outputs and jumpstart the second one
how to jumpstart i have no idea
i know it is dangerous
8 pin PCIe is rated for 150w. 8 of those is 1200w. Then 75w PCIe port power for a total rated max of 1275w
With normal 16 awg wire - 150W is a really conservative rating. But better safe for those adapter kids.
my god this sounds interesting
like start a project to figure out how to power these two cards
1600T2 , 2000W leadex 8 pack, or just running them parallel haha. Main thing is to just ensure you power the 8 pins before system powers on.
leadex 8 pack?
my god
look how deep that goes
you'd want a system with a shroud
like a case rather
also couldnt put that on a normal wall circuit unless you blow a breaker
Only if you pull a ton of power from it long enough - but ya, it's meant for 240. iirc - it's identical inside to a US 1600w plat or Ti
Any modern psu will run more efficienty , thus cooler on 240v.
ideally if you have that and you're american you have a 240v US socket installed wherever your computer is
(for those not familiar we have this huge socket with huge plugs for 240v in the US)
and just make a custom cord to fit the power supply
http://www.attachmax.com/p/2018/11/nema-plug-and-receptacle-configurations-throughout-nema-receptacle-chart-494x600.gif this is but a small part of the US 220-240V sockets
at least 10 more than this exist
you'd need a 50A or higher to power that power supply of course
Good chart - I've used the same one googling myself.
I just wired in two 240v 20 amp breakers, and a 30 A 120v.
L5-30P and L6-30P plugs on both PDUs
i know nothing about electrical stuff
lmao
how many amps are needed to actually get that power supply to create a metric buttload of amps
because i assume it has some kind of step-up functionality
Like <10 haha.
oh nice
so you'd just need to wire up a 6-20R or something even lower
and then flip your power supply switch if it's not auto switching
i saw a socket on there that was dangerous
it was a normal electrical socket with a thing sticking to the left out of the left blade
like how much you wanna bet people have gotten themselves fairly good plugging regular stuff into those
unless it has a failsafe like needing that extra blade to provide power
Any modern psu should be able to take either two 120 v lines 180 deg out of phase as we're supplied in the us - or a single 240v rms line in either polarity as per EU regulation.
hm, maybe you could get something that plugs into two standard plugs and provides the 240v
speaking primarily for the leadex
Ya, actually the reason I got these so cheap is that the L6-30P standard is being deprecated as it's possibly unsafe for 240 v split phase , 3 wire use.
oh
Do you currently need that much power? If so, why?
i don't, i'm just interested
there's no way i could even max out my 750W
i get interested in things
It's been common for years to run PSU's in parallel - most LN2 dual -quad GPU overclockers use something like dual 1600 G2/p2/t2 etc just bridging the 24 pin / green wire
Lol - same
it seems kind of strange basically just the US and Japan use 110-120 (US) and 100V (Japan) and the rest of the world uses 240V for everything and it's just normal to have that much wattage on each socket
voltage
why did i say wattage, i don't even know what that is
Yep, 230v 50hz is the norm. Though, every house in the US could wire up 240 if they wanted, idk about code.
There's only a handful of places is really matters, and new houses get a nice L something 4 wire plug for that now - like what ovens use. two hots, a neutral + ground.
Kitchen kettles, hair dryers, and I guess really tryhard big "compensator" computer rigs
lol
my (ex) gf and i when we were living together had to replace the power cable for a dryer, and it was maddening because we really were sure we were right and they'd come up the wrong thing
the dryer was older and the socket was newer
and there was a problem related to that, wherein the power was just wrong and we couldn't get the right cable
i need to go to sleep now, it's like quarter of three now and i don't want to get into a bad habit
Does it say what year its from
Its good for the price actually
just 66 bucks
I like using this list, idk if its a good list, I just use it
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list-40/
PSU Tier List 4.0 rev. 6.4 welcome to the brand new PSU Tier List! Created and maintained by @Princess Luna, @DatTestBench, @Stefan Payne, @GreatMasterAden, @PSUGuru, @Ave with a model o and @LukeSavenije Last Update: 16-12-2019 Tiering of various units is opinion based off r...
its a semi decent psu, bronze 80+ isnt the best, but for $66 i dont think it will blow anything up
But you think it's good for my build, for now at least
whats ur build?
nvm ill check
it will work, but its not the greatest psu but its a good price
@jolly lark why are you getting 850w on a meh PSU?
If you PC consumes that much power then you should have the budget for a better PSU
Also note, cxm has fan/coil whine issues
Just get a cx550 for $65
Or wait... Why are you getting x570 with 2000 series CPU?
oh didn't check the mobo lol yeah get a b450 motherboard instead
@jolly lark Just get this
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Wqzdb8
@lofty pewter no thank you I already have the case gpu and CPU
@jolly lark well that's an oof because that case has bad airflow and is majorly overpriced
Well too late lol
Either way, get the rest of the build. Everthing else will work and it isn't overpriced like things were in the other list
I want the wifi board so I can upgrade my cpu later down the road
Cuz mobo, ram, and SSD were overpriced. PSU was more than what you needed
The board I gave can easily do upto a moderate OC on a 3900x
And I'm getting a liquid cooler for the cpu
AIOs are generally a waste cuz they perform the same as air coolers
But they look cooler
Sure, but at 2x the cost or more
They're easier transport around I think
i like AIOs because you sort of de-clutter the CPU area
also RAM clearance is never an issue
a lot of modern RAM is really bad about being tall
Bruh I have a aio pc that has a i5-6400 with a GeForce 930A/GTX 550 so bruh

yep
Would I be able to oc?
could go a bit bigger for future builds/parts
having more wattage isn't going to hurt anything.
Depending on what you have you can overclock but if you do plan on doing that would be best to use something like a 500 to 550w PSU then
My system uses about 350 to 400w but i bought a 600w cause of any future parts and/or if i plan on overclocking
Atx
Hmm I'll look
The issue is, cases that cheap don't inlcude fans
Which you will need, which will increase the cost
Here's one for $55 that has two fans
Last one has three fans
$40
I don't have a GPU for it yet it's not going to be high end probably just a Rx something and the cpu is an i3
It's just for recycled parts and such lol
Okay
CXM is a mid tier PSU. If your PC is high end enough to take more than 600w then get a better PSU. Also CXM has fan/coil whine issues
i prefer the RM series or EVGA supernova
i was just reminded of the supernova recently by someone
Which supernovas are the best?
i had one that went a long time for me and is going a long time for someone else now in a PC build I did years past
Believe I've spec'd out an RM.
Best supernova is G2, which is about on par with RM series I think
G3 and G5 aren't that great, despite being newer
G2 is what i had
That's a shame.
it was an old FX-8350 build
back when that CPU was relevant
heads up: the RM 2019 cables are not very long
routing them around a case is very difficult
Tho, was it realistically ever relevant?
it was relevant when it was new
it was a fast CPU
despite how the number of cores/threads were figured out, it was a fast CPU and compared well to intel's contemporaneous quad cores
I mean how close was it to the 3570k? Didn't the i5 lose just a bit in all thread count perf, but wins in some thread count/single thread count by quite a bit for about $50 more on just the CPU
the solution on FX was somewhere between hardware cores and SMT
Idk mobo prices at the time so can't say how much more Intel was in total
but yes the i5 and FX traded blows
intel motherboards were not universally expensive
but good ones were
but the same went for AMD
Feel like workstation stuff would be more AMD but gaming would be more Intel cuz that single core perf and games not liking multi threaded stuff
At the time
yes at the time games were single threaded universally
That change took quite a while, but it finally happened with games being mostly multi threaded
i didn't care, i was 29 and i had just come into some money, I wanted to build a beast computer
also i bought a monitor and somebody stole it from my doorstep
so i had to buy it again
it wasn't a good monitor, it was just this 22" AOC because oddly enough i cheaped out on one of the most important components
not now
i'm poor as hell and I have a 27" 144Hz adaptive sync (both kinds) monitor
i wanted to get an ultrawide but then this monitor resurrected itself from the depths
so i kind of decided i wouldn't bother
money spent is as valuable as money you have
Ultra wide is also pricier
I've got a 1080p 144hz Asus monitor. I'll upgrade that last after completing my build.
upgrade it to what?
i think i'll have a good 1080p card when i complete my build
and one that should handle VR very well
probably a used vega 64 because i'm a risk-taker
Id laugh it was secretly a mining card with mining bios and never had the paste replaced
it's not likely when you get a seller that offers refunds
why would they take the trouble to sell a bad card if they have a return policy?
@barren basin I think I want to possibly go 1440p eventually.
Or possibly just stick with 1080p and go dual monitors with better panels.
If you go for VA panels visit your local PC shop or a Bestbuy and look at them first to see if it would be alright for your eyes
Just learned there's a Microcenter relatively close by, might have to head there and see what it's all about.
Bring tissues
^
Are rgb psus bad
depends on if it's rated gold 80+ certified, if so should work with no issues but janky ones... you get what you pay for
efficiency ratings really do not mean anything as to the quality of the PSU -- what model specifically? @jolly lark
I know Thermaltake makes some
Depends on the orientation of the PSU as well cause i have been noticing that some people has the PSU fan blowing on the inside of the case
I think I do actually
I'm pretty sure I do
Sadly I found that I have a EVGA G3 not G2
so a bad one :p
@elfin trout well luckily G3 isn't horrible. Just has OCP set up incorrectly. Which isn't exactly a good thing having an incorrect protection setup, but everything else is good about it
@lofty pewter any way I can fix it or no
Not as far as I'm aware. If there was it'd be dangerous anyways
basically the G3 is decent, but not great
So, with current, anything I should avoid?
G3 is bad for its price as it's usually more expensive than better options
Overvolting components should be fine correct?
I got my g3 750w for like 100 bucks
It was cheap
Eh, you should be fine. Also note, the 750w RM was like $105 a week ago or so
So not that cheap
Yee, don't remember prices from that long ago
Oh wait ..
Bitfenix was around at that time
Do you know what would put me at risk of over current?
About $105 for 650w/750w I'm pretty sure
Or $110
Idk, anyways
You should be fine tbh. Could have some random shutdowns with really high end hardware
Pushing the PSU to it's limit I guess
My stuff should only take about 600w max so I dont think I'm pushing it to it's limits
Well I'm no super PSU expert but it shouldn't kill your components in one go. If you do notice instability tho and can trace it to your PSU it will damage your stuff over long periods of instability
Alright, I'll take note if stuff get unstable
But you should be fine tho
Aight, so if my PC dies one day, blame the PSU
got it
Ummmm
Sure
i have a 750W and i most definitely do not need all of it
😄 but it's a nice power supply
i feel more comfortable with a good 250W above what i need anyway
just in case i want to overclock a part or something
Agree. I favor overkill / build quality for piece of mind.
yes
i have a 2019 RM750
thing is all i have is that and my case
lol
have to buy everything else
i'll have enough to start the PC and use it like a normal PC by next month though
Sounds like you invested in parts that will last many builds to come.
I meant it in a good way, ya, those tow
those will last a long time
provided i buy ITX
which is something i like so i probably will
though honestly? this case requires a GPU with a blower fan so i kind of regret the purchase
loud, loud fans
I just find it silly when people skimp on parts they'll spend thousands of hours enjoying.
i'm only buying an R5 2600 (waiting for 3900X to hit $300)
soon as new CPUs roll out i would bet it hits 300
Maybe - , it might be possible to mod some GPU bracket mount elsewhere using a riser cable, water loop it all one day, who knows.
i'm getting an AIO for my CPU, and future CPUs
I'd bet so too. we saw $145 2700x's just now, $150 2700's , $200 2700x's on prime day.
Given AMD's roadmap, I think the 3900x will really rule the productivity market for value
3600 can be found for very attractive sales. 190 after tax at times + some game you can flip for $30 plus
AMD is kind of ahead of their time in that even their gaming targeted CPUs have a lot of cores
stuff like 3700X
why get a 2700x for $200 when you can get a 3600x?
The 2700x was 200 on prime day - it's <$150 on sale now
if it doesn't, the 3600 is still a killer deal
for its price/performance
it honestly performs better tbh
it's still out of my range a little bit, unless i just want to buy the CPU and save the motherboard for later
i decided rather than to save, i'd buy parts over time and have my build take its final form this march
I've praised the 3600 since lauch, haha ya, if the 3600x came with the prism , I'd give it more attention, some sales will bring it back into consideration though
the spire is good?
does it mess up RAM clearance if your RAM is right next to it?
nah, the spire is pretty small all things told
Could be better, it's just a cool rgb but worse than a 212 level cpu cooler you can use for random stuff
it's perfectly fine if you don't OC
otherwise i'll have a hyper T2 and a 2600
I use the stealth with my 2600 and I still boost higher than default without getting really hot
I feel like people drastically overestimate what you need for a cpu cooler
i'd venture a guess it outperforms the stealth by a huge amount
i used to always use Hyper T2s in my builds so i'm keen to continue doing so
I think $50-80 on a d15 or equivalent is money well spent , on any cpu really, cooler lasts as long as you don't break it, noctua has the best in class mount hardware (they ship you new stuff free if needed) - and most of all:
Silence - if that's worth $50-80 over the many hours you intend to use the pc
Oh, but it's ugly - some people take offense to the ugly lol
watercool your gpu
i don't trust myself to do something like that
too expensive anyway
it is
my case is actually geared towards novel ways of mounting disks and reservoirs for water cooling
the HD mounts very low down on the floor of the case if you follow the default method
but there are other ways
i'll get an AIO eventually anyway, for both the extra exhaust fans and the quiet of 2x120mm fans vs the sound of a small 92mm CPU cooler fan
wait that sounds ridiculous
it's quiet, anyway
i might avoid getting the AIO if the Hyper T2 proves to be the exact thing i need
well max TDP is 130W
so any of this gen's ryzens can be cooled by the T2
I just got my Corsair SPEC-DELTA last night and it looks amazing without even being turned on
If you're looking for a good Corsair case it's definitely worth the $80 that it currently costs
Thoughts on Corsair spec-delta? So not happy with my new choice air flow wise
cases are funky
airflow can vary depending on your environment
what did you get @inland kite
One of the PCSpecialist cases. Which as far as I can tell are only half rebrands of existing cheap cases, and half actually seem unique
oh i'm not familiar
Neither is anybody else, its kind of a new thing they've been doing as far as I can see, so they're new cases on the market that only people who buy prebuilts can get. It was the easiest (and cheapest) way to get a 3950X fast to go through them so I just went with CPU + Mobo + Case + PSU and Im buying GPU, storage and ram seperately.
smart, also avoids common pitfalls in building PCs
Yeah and doesnt really limit your options to what they have, as long as they have the exact thing you're looking for then its easy.
The one thing I can actually afford to cheap out on is a case because it'll be pretty hidden under my desk, where I don't care much about noise and especially not visuals
The PCS P209 is the case but, theres nothing on it. Not sure why I went for it, it doesn't even look like it has great airflow
trying to figure out what the case actually is
I tried, I couldnt
but all i find are irish sites trying to review it seriously instead of people trying to expose what cheap case it actually is
it's a corsair something
oddly enough
i just can't figure out what
If you're basing that on the corsair website being first to pop up, I dont think it is. I think its just a similar model number.
I can still change it before they start building (when the 3950X comes in to actually build it with) and the only options which are a bit more expensive are the corsair spec delta, the corsair carbide 275Q, and a bit on the expensive side the thermaltake v200. But after that its kind of adding to a budget more for looks than practicality
Theres also a PCS SR-628B which looks a bit similar to a few other branded cases
I can find it from...taiwan? I guess
coolermaster
I am kind of...okayish? With this breakdown
I believe PCS dont supply it with the top mounted RGB fans, or even the back fan being RGB. Unless they dont know how to wire fans for their promo pics
Again Im unsure on how well the front face flows but the more I look at it, the more things I like such as the vastly open top, and bottom seems well ventilated too.
yeah it looks okay
I guess Ill give that a go, its only £18 more, so not the end of the world. But without any info on the p209 I have no clue what to think about it
Which?
I always thought Techadvisor was the verge of the UK. After reading that I felt like I was assuredly correct.
Im also curious because PCSpecialist lists the bays as 2x 3.5" drives + 2x 2.5" drives
Im also curious as to why there's RGB fans behind an opaque black front
Just to have an LED strip down one side
Hi, what is the minimum wattage psu I could get away with for this build?
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/nF94p8
Without OCing? Might just scrape with a 450 but Id definitely go with a 550 for safety. Maybe a 500 is safe enough
alright. Yeah, I think im gonna end up going for a 500. Thanks.
Get yourself a Corsair power supply at that wattage
RM series ideally, RM 550x
you'll be glad you did
it's modular and it's strong and reliable
and most importantly it gives you almost all the watts and amps on a single +12V rail
i'd also recommend 16GB of DDR4-3200 for a setup like that
it's unbalanced to go with 8GB system RAM when your GPU has that much, it'll cause a lot of swapping while you're playing games
these things might cost more but it will improve your experience
data vac
i think
Metropolitan ED500 DataVac 120 Volt Electric Duster, White https://www.newegg.com/product/9SIA3913BT9019?m_ver=1
@primal remnant @inland kite , a likely reason you cannot find the specific case that is being used is because it is reused tooling being used to create a case for "oem-only" production.
there are no catalogues for stuff like that
because the general consumer is not the target for cases like that.
thats like more than my ram costs lmao
how about this one
more reasonably priced
@scenic lance the reusable dusters are generally not for "one-off" builds. hence the small selection of them
i personally prefer canned or actual air compressors
(small selection in the general way)
i have issues with them spraying liquid out
https://www.amazon.com/XPOWER-Multi-Use-Electric-Computer-Replacement/dp/B00V8S9XU6 also comes in a fetching green and blue (why i have no idea)
@primal remnant yeah, ram is definitely on my list for future upgrades, just a bit short on cash right now and I want to get my 1050ti out of my pc and upgrade lol
Just know with 8GB you'll suffer - you could afford 16 if you got a 5700 instead of a 5700 XT
Opinions on corsair 200R airflow? https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/cTQypg/corsair-case-200r
I don't care much for looks, nor for side panels, I just want good airflow
not sure you'll get good airflow
Front intake sucks
Upper intake is bad for air coolers but decent for liquid coolers
Side intake is a bit better for air coolers than above intake and gets GPU good air
What I liked about it was the side intake as you said
Can pump air straight to gpu
Air cooler or liquid cooler?
I'll have a look at those when I get to my pc
I'm undecided yet
I plan to get 3600x, so I don't really need an aio
If air cooler you'd most likely want a mesh front
no I think that twas the other one
q300L was meshy no?
I know the one you are thinking
the front intake was hooooooorrid
holes being small
this one you thinking of?
We tried hard to make Cooler Master's Q500L case perform well, but we just couldn't pull it off. The Q500L is one of the worst thermal performers we've ever tested.
Ad: Buy Gigabyte's Intel Z390 chipset Master motherboard (http://geni.us/eIQnI on Amazon)
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idk, looking at the pic a bit earlier I posted it seemed to be the same
With front being more metal that no metal
if techjesus says its a big oof, I retract my url 😛
all hail tech jesus
mwahahahahaa where is my dremel
or in this case, angle grinder
I do like the look of it
Yeah, it isnt bad apart from that one issue. Which kinda sucks cuz I also kinda like the look of it
I'd mod it though, with the right drill bit it'd be really easy to bore out them holes
or like you said, just remove the entire front
3d print a 240mm fan bracket
Probably just dremel large-ish square holes I guess
decently easy but keeps the front more intact
use that mesh layer to hide it all
u recommend full mesh front?
if you mean the ssd they use in test systems that's an old 840 evo drive iirc
the 840 evo was in the same grey case
Best plain black case?
anyone recommending a certain case looking for a ATX case, should I get theCorsair iCUE 220T RGB Airflow?
Are all Corsair PSUs good ? I want to buy an ATX PSU 80+ bronze or better, might cop the CX650 corsair 80+ bronze but are there any better options and is this one a good one
And would there be any cable compatibility issues ?
power supplies should come with all the cables you need
assuming new, all corsairs are pretty decent
What's a good RGB ATX mid tower for a 7 7200X and Rx 5700
I want tempered glass side panel and front panel
3 RGB fans on front
Back fan doesn't matter if RGB or not
A PSU cover thingy
For around $100
Sounds super good to me; decent IO, looks kinda nice, and can fit a Noctua nh-d15 in it no problem
To me it looks exactly the same but it has 4 fans and an IO fan speed
Thanks Kuzu
Rate my $800ish build now with the case
AMD Ryzen 7 2700X
MSI B450 Tomahawk
Corsair Vengeance LPX 2 x 8gb DDR4 3600
Samsung 860 Evo 1TB
XFX Raedon Rx 5700 8gb
EVGA 500 bq
Vanguard RGB black
9/10 get a 3600 instead 
Personally had a corsair CX 650m before and never had any issues
I'm sticking with the 2700x because 1. They are both decent CPUs and 2. It comes with RGB stock cooler and you know RGB is better than performance
for 100 you can get actually decent cases
front tempered glass isnt good
at all
i would go either with the corsair 220t or the meshify c
why isn't front tempered glass good exactly
airflow
could be bad I guess
only reason I hate Lian Li O11 dynamic is cause of that
personally I have a case with an obstructed front side and it doesn't affect the temps very much at all
long as there's at least 1 out-take you'll be okay 👍
Will it work with MSI mystic rgb or whatever it's called
?
The case I just sent
noctua clearance was 160mm, that case says 168mm
my define nano S can fit the noctua
because it's just as wide as the other define series
that said, i opted for a hyper T2
it's got 130W TDP capacity and my 2600X will be 105W TDP
er 104
even leaves room for a small overclock
Does anyone here happen to have any experience with Rosewills Cullinan MX?
Anyone have a case recommendation?
For around 80 CAD
I’m looking at a Deepcool Macube 310p
To replace my current SPEC-06
Hows the nzxt 700i?
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nzxt-h700i-mid-tower-case,5380.html here's a review i think you can trust, this should help you in making your decision
i haven't reviewed it or used it
so i can't tell you
i trust nzxt, theyre a good brand
Seems like poor airflow to me
@mighty vine would advise against EVGA bq, not great for the price
@quasi inlet CXM does tend to have fan/coil whine issues
i've used a fair bit of NZXT cases, in their source line to build PCs
i still have a white one
source 210 i think
it was a good case, i had another source 220 which is the same but with USB3
they are old cases
What would I use instead @lofty pewter
Corsair CX is generally the cheapest while still being good
Is there a similar semi modular one
Kinda sucks that there isnt any good cheap semi PSUs. Heck you even see decently high end fully modular before you see any good semi modular, which kinda sucks for saving money
So for modular cheapest decent one is Corsair RM 650w
Rosewill has some decent modular psu's, but the RM are better.
okay guys I have a toughie. I'm on a budget, and I'm replacing this thing https://1stopshop.co.za/thermaltake-litepower-350-watts-atx-12v-2-2-power-supply-lt-350/p31899
I need more wattage, and the connectors offered by this at least.
Upper limit on my budget is about $80-$90 USD
any ideas?
How much more power do you need?
Well, I"m currently powering... lemme grab my specs
an Nividia GTX 950 2Gb, i5-4690k CPU (3.50GHz), quad core
8Gb Ram, two harddrives, two fans, on this mobo with 8Gb Ramhttps://www.gigabyte.com/us/Motherboard/GA-H81M-S2H-rev-10#ov
so enough to run all that, in the ballpark of 500-600 watts?
@opal night
With that hardware you only need 400-450 watts
I plan to add in the future
upgrading the GPU is next on my list after the PSU replacement (current is dying, only kicks out 350)
I saw a corsair in that pricerange on newegg but I wasn't sure if it'd be compatible, PSUs are kinda new territory for me
With the older hardware you have
PSU's will have everything you need
and yeah, same one I posted
That will work!
Even the connectors? THat's what I was skeptical over
Yes
snap the amazon link is cheaper, too, thanks!
What is 80+ white? I've never seen that before.
@tawny dust @opal night I'd advise against CXM due to coil/fan whine issues