#The Blue Turd
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
nein
do you know how hard it is to find bumpers unmolested by snip-happy FMIC enthusiasts?!
I have one
i keep forgetting im subbed to your channel, i see random car videos of a gc8 and think that looks really familiar
cause it is lol
i rarely see fmic people here
everybody just removes it because nobody knows how to do body work
The pod has finally been installed onto the dashboard. 3M tape and zip ties
need to polish the clear on the carbon a bit tho
Its the lighting being fucky in that picture, the colors are actually pretty close, and most of it will be obscured by the radio screen anyway
oh
i see it now on the original picture
i just got done insulting some idiot on facebook parts groups for asking to buy the tailights on a free car. I feel really good right now
ah shit weong chat
lol
so what all is the current plans for the turd
wait for alarm company to actually come install the alarm that my insurance company is requiring me to get
once the alarm is in, I can put the dashboard and rest of the interior in (leaving them out for access to wiring for the alarm)
once the interior is in, i can book it for a steering and tracking alignment, inspection and to take it to the exhaust shop to have the new mid-pipe made
and then it'll be done
and I can enjoy it
yeah
without an interior
yeah
i dont understand
it moved out of the garage, down my driveway then back up my driveway
without the dashboard in
and you didnt fuck any of your fuses?
no?
well i thought that would have messed stuff up since it wouldnt have been plugged into alot of systems
i mean everything on the steering column and the gauge cluster itself is plugged in, but everything else is just dangling wires
the gauge cluster is just sort of sitting on the dash support bar
and the ECU is plugged in of course
i wont question it, im not proficient in wiring
im suprised i managed to figure out which wire was what on my tcu and spice it into a connection
and i have an exhaust you can have
or buy
whatever
it uses v clamps for best flow
I did that recently when I had the car caged. Have a video somewhere too
It was an interesting experience
my summer car and my grandfather lied to me ig
We did plug the switch stock in to have driving lights but the turn signals didn't work
oh wait
you said you got a rollcage? what type and how much did it cost?
rally tracks around here have heavy restrictions and i need a cage to go on it for some reason, i cant find the type i want though.
I've had a cage for months now. It was a full custom 6-point cage, around 1.5k
still want to be able to have rear passengers
oh okay thats cheaper than around here
1.5k pounds?
or euros
Euro. Actually I think it was 1.4
well thats definitely cheaper then
With some finessing that's entirely possible
well the back 2 connect to the rear shock toweres right?
thats gonna be like 3 different things connected to it lol
not the point
If you ditch the rear diagonals it's not that crammed
If you have a V-shaped center support instead of X like here, and ditch the rear diagonals you can easily have passengers. You just need to duck when you get in to avoid the straight rear supports
hmm
This is the amount of interior with which the car drove up and down the driveway
Those seat covers fuck
i dont think an inanimate object can do that
Dildos are inanimate
you got a point
Apparently you don't even need the gauge cluster
yeah I know
Do you know what color wires go to the cigarette lighter plug by any chance? Is it black and yellow-red? I think the car my harness came off had a non illuminated cigarette lighter with a 2-pin plug, where mine had an illuminated one with a 3-pin plug so they don't match up and I need to cheese it
I'll go check I happen to have that trim piece hanging
Yes it is yellow-red
And for the light, the red one goes to blue and the red-green one goes to yellow on that connector there
does the yellow merge with the yellow-red by any chance?
Appears to go in the loom as separate wires but given that they are both 12V it wouldn't matter if you merged them
yeah I just have yellow-red and black going into a two-pin plug on my harness
Might actually replace the cigarette lighter with a 2 USB thing
Need greener bulbs in the dash
Probably warm whites will give a truer green than the white whites
Wait that headlight level switch has a light?
The width of a hair one?
them ones
Never seen them before
Huh. I also just realized I can use my new ECU to automatize the IC sprayer thing
And also put that IC sprayer dash light into use with it too
altho, only reason I have that switch there still is to fill up the hole, since the morettes don't have the level adjustment motors lol
That'd be a good place for a killswitch then
really fucking struggling with the p0031 check engine light
Lambda heater voltage low?
can't find anything on where the fuse or relay for the o2 sensor heater circuit is
yeah
changed the sensor, didn't help, must be an issue in the car itself
couldn't see any physical damage on the wiring to the plug in the engine bay, but have no clue where the other end of the wiring goes to check
At least on mine it gets 12V directly from the main relay, which appears to be the heater too
where is the main relay
Yeah I was wrong it's under the dash
is it this brown one?
Yeah, for me it's in a 3 relay holder bolted to the driver's side a-pillar under the dash
Should be driver's side to you too
holy shit the bottom switches
thats it
i knew i was forgetting something
my foglamps, cruise control, and whatever the other thing is
I prefer the satisfying sound of no deadening but driving would be so much better with it
The video doesn't actually show that well what a massive difference in THUNK the sound deadening did to the doors. It's massive. My moms audi q5 has tinnier doors than my subaru now
It’s an Audi, it’s all false luxury anyway
PrEmIuM gErMaN eNgInEeRiNg
Pretty much lol
only have like 2 sheets left of the 50 sheets of sound deadening I bought. Will probably buy a pack of 10 more later on whenever I can be arsed to take off the roof liner so I can stick some sound deadening on there as well
what did you buy? i was planning on doing this, and any pictures or forums you used to set it up for maximum dead meat?
this is what I used, recommended to me by a friend who used it on his 944 https://www.dodomat.com/collections/sound-deadening/products/dodo-dead-mat-hex-50-sheets
Dodo Mat DEADN Hex is a self adhesive, foil backed sound deadening vibration damper. Simply cut, peel & stick Dodo Mat DEADN Hex on the interior sheet metal of any vehicle to recuce unwanted vibrations & structural noise. Make those panels as dead as a Dodo!
Dodo Mat DEADN Hex has a high grade butyl compound for better sound deadening & vibra...
as for how I went about installing it... I just went ham. didn't follow any forums or guides. did the entire floor inside the car from the pedals to where the access hole covers to the fuel pump is. covered as much of the door skins inside the doors and trunklid, and what was left I spread across the spare wheel well and the rear quarters in the trunk
i also replaced all the broken doorcard clips while I was at it, so hopefully there will now be no more loose shite rattling
got a pair of 6.5" pioneer speakers arriving tomorrow to replace the tired old ones in the front doors as well. I had already replaced the rear ones before I did the swap so they should still be good for awhile
lol so you just spammed shit everywhere like you spam rocket pods in war thunder, got it
my car sounds like litteral shit, and those rear coilovers are so squeaky i want to set it on fire
torque specs aren't on amayama, I posted the spec sheets I used on your project topic a few days ago tho
ah okay i see
fanglers crossed boios
Toireess
New genuine o2 sensor still hasn't fixed the CEL...
same issue with my A/F sensor
does it turn on after a few minutes or immediately once turning on?
You know if it’s emissions based readings you need to clear the error and have a few starts before emissions systems are ready to test
Turns on immediately, had the battery disconnected for about an hour to clear the code, I even switched ECUs with a spare one I have and it's still there. It's p0031 o2 heater circuit voltage low, but I've checked the voltage both at the plug and at the ECU and it's reading 11.9v with ignition on, engine off, and 13.8v with the engine on. Bought a brand new genuine sensor off ICP as well, shits still showing up, I genuinely have no clue wtf is the cars problem
Have you tried actually clearing it and just seeing what happens? Not sure it’d be any different but worth a shot right?
You have got the o2 and afr the right way round too?
GC only has one lambda sensor, between turbo and cat
Also my code reader doesn't clear subaru codes for some reason
You don't happen to have an AFR gauge?
No
Could just replace the OEM with that
Come to think of it, why haven't I done it already?
Unfortunately that view is rain because Britian
point an laugh
What’s that?
More of what it isn't
Yeah I noticed that on yours, for all tge weightsaving you put in, you left the aircon
Real men sweat in the summer
It’s a British summer so windows down and you’re all good, it’s worked for me most years
Yeah the 17kg it should remove according to the manual is no way worth it for what it does
Also, more importantly, headlight washers still work
Well see those we did remove for weight savings
TBF I don't even recall why we removed those
Probably broken, they usually are on subarus
Mines the only classic amongst my friends/club with working washers
Could've been, it does look sleeker without them tho
They are required for an mot if they came fitted usually, I’ve had it failed for them not working annoyingly before
Here they are required for certain types of lights, LED included but I run with LED bulbs anyways because I'm the most feared light-bringer in the town
Eye-level navigation infotainment
I approve of that, no worse than any modern merc
Unlike modern mercs tho, when mine breaks, I can walk into halfords and buy a new, upgraded one for less than £200
I’m not sure you could get a merc tyre valve cap for less than £200
You can get my Merc for £200
Need to get some matte anti-glare film on that screen. Sadly it's not the brightest and it's really fighting with my pimptastic seat covers
what.
The spring might hit back with the might of Zeus
turns out subaru engines blowing is all an engineered ploy. and the bombs are in the throttle position sensors
@drifting forge
Oh yeah
it's either a 5" or 4.5"
its 4.5
and, well, just universal eBay trumpet
yeah, cold air though
but I like my lights
i like your lights too
you can do a ring light like the foglights
aftermarket ones that is
if I want to duct cold air tho, I'd just do it from the vent thats conveniently above where the air filter is tho
just replace the vent with an extra scoop, make a little enclosure in the engine bay
I'm really not a fan of headlight replacement ducts
News flash, the ebay ones are quite shite
oh I know, I've got a set lol
Me too lol
Dad fabricated it a bit already
Might mold a curve to the bottom there to smooth the airflow
I was in front of the house taking photos of the subaru with the lights on, and one of the neighbours hot boi boyfriend with his golf gti started making loud noises
Well actually I will, it looks like shit
was tempted to start up the subaru and give it a few revs
easily the loudest car in the neighborhood right now
louder than my other neighbours V8 jag
Greeeeeeen
my ebay front lip fit fine with a little but of heat
now i just wish spats werent 300 fucking dollars
what lip did you get again?
gimme link
I have one of those bumpers and I am looking fora lip for it
they're not strictly jdm, it's just the turbo bumper, came on euro cars too
heck even came on the non turbo sport specials
PU spoiler is the official name
they are considered sti bumpers but they just came on some other models because they can
Only 150€ shipping, what a bargain
is that alot in euros or not
165 USD
Yeah shipping across the pond is expensive
ah, boooo
god damn my wifi is slower than my car right now
How is it more expensive to there than here
brexit
import costs hit hard ig
260€ total for me
you could ask your family in texas to get it and maybe it would be cheaper with usps to get to england than whatever they use
shit usps is us only im dumb as fuck
No it won't, cross atlantic shipping is expensive as shit
@round skiff would you happen to know what voltage the throttle position sensor is supposed to receive on the voltage supply wire?
is it 5V?
Fuck philips heads in hard to reach places
Exactly why I replaced the screws in the oil pump and behind the flywheel
Tested the TPS supply, reads 5v as it should, didn't want to mess with the wire weatherproofing on the backside to try the signal tho
And it started raining before I could check the ground for resistance
Also, it's. 4-pin plug, with a 4-pin TPS, but only has 3 wires running to it?
Fuck Phillips heads in general, they are designed to burr
Cars rarely use the same connector twice in the same area to make plugging shit in easier. It was probably cheaper to use a 4 pin connector than to source a different 3 pin
knock sensor is also a 2 pin connector with 1 pin
i should have turned down my stuff before i turned it on my ears are going to be ringing for the next hour
left side driving
Oh joy. The mystery motor is already making noises... Strange clattery sound I can't figure out where it's coming from. Only there at idle, goes away under light revs, feels like it's coming from the drivers side front, maybe the brearing in the power steering pump is already shagged? It doesn't sound like a full-on knock, but it's a bit too loud to be the valves I think.
From the video it sounds like an exhaust leak to me
well I've got at least 2 of those, but I can't hear it under the car where I know they are
Turbo flange?
Also try pushing the clutch in, after the build my TOB started making noise for a while
I might pull the alternator belt off to see if the noise stops. It sounds suspiciously like when my power steering pump was low on fluid, I think it' might be a pulley bearing either on the PAS pump or the alternator
That could be it too, my PS pump is noisy too but it won't accept more fluid and we rebuilt it recently
yeah mines a fresh rebuild too
but bearings are finnicky things and I don't know if the bearing itselfs actually been changed
We did and had no problem right after the rebuild
But after draining it and the rack and filling it back up it was noisy
But also the belts are toast
There's a 5cm section that's missing one of the ribs on the belt
youre missing some timing bolts there bucko
the new hex bolts?
they're just for the cover, not really actually needed
two of them are snapped off inside the block thanks to the previous owner, I've left them as a problem for "time to change the timing belt Adi"
You took the engine out but didn't do timing? Did you inspect the belt?
Timing was already done, engine was meant to go in a friends car before he lost interest and sold everything off
Wasn't gonna replace a new timing belt kit with a new timing belt kit. I did pull the covers off to confirm it was new and everything aligned
I see
Well got to do what I got to do to pass the MOT... Sometimes my brilliance is frughtening.
Pre obd2 cars probably don't phisically have a CEL in the first place, but mine is OBD2, so. . .
Ah. Here we only require OBD2 system to be operational after 2001
Can't get MOT with CEL on
Can't make CEL go off without running the car in and procedures that involve driving the car
Can't drive the car without MOT
So... Only option is... Cheat!
Also yes they do, mine included. It just flashes a code when you plug in the diagnostic connector
well yes, but not all codes make the CEL actually stay on, and because the law was made by morons who have no knowledge about mechanics, same morons that came up with smart motorways and the current highway code mind you, all they care about is weather the CEL is on or not.
What exhaust?
center pipe
from downpipe to backbox
custom one that actually fits properly
and has a flex joint
and doesn't have gaping holes on each end
Imagine having a properly fitting exhaust
and doesn't foul on the driveshaft bearing
but yeah, gonna drop it off at the exhaust place on the 26th, and when they're done they'll take it to an MOT guy they use on the 27th
Good luck, do I recall correctly this car hasn't been on the road for 1.5 years?
so hopefully around lunchtime on the 27th I'll get a call that it's passed MOT
full 2 years now
Ah. About time
And I was completely done after 2 months when the project wouldn't end
reassembly didn't take that long, tbh, car was still a bare shell around christmas
@drifting forge i may have an outback sport grill if you want it. its black i think.
Can't really commit to spending anything till the cars past its inspection and on the road, but definitely interested
one minute I'll get sum pics you you
i mesnt for you no idea how i got you you out of that
I'm struggling to understand that sorry
Is OBS grille anything special? I imagine it would cost more to ship than buy one locally
The obs was a us special no? Buying one locally seems difficult
yeah, was US/canada only afaik. Got a different insert. Want one purely for the "oh i've not seen that before" factor here in the UK
That’s as good as any reason tbh
Yes US special and the only car they had them on
its like the prefacelift without the side bits but it has side bits like rs grille
@round skiff
buttoned up the turd best I could today. gonna drop it off at the exhaust shop tomorrow at 8:30, and hopefully pick it up with a passed MOT thursday around lunchtime
fingers crossed and pray to St.Otto for good fortune and passable emissions
Also decided to stick a square plate on the rear too
just dropped the car off, fingers crossed it passes MOT tomorrow but I doubt it tbh.
At least the exhaust will be sorted after, but something came loose and started rattling on the way there. I'm suspecting the hood scoop undertray is making contact with the intercooler when it gets airflow in it while driving, but hey the clattering noise has gone away
Get the adapter thing with the deadeners
it's just the intercooler is cheap chinese shite
the mounts on it are not in the right place, so it sits too high and too far back
distracting myself during the wait by making some speaker adapters to 3D print for the front doors so I can stick 6.5" speakers in them
Rip
Mission failed
Also don't know how those bolts are loose, I just checked them and they're tight wtf
bro these are some strict ass rules
blue smoke is an issue?
okay actually that makes sense
but like some random ass balljoint? and the headlights? if they work they work god damnit that aint even an issue
the headlights that is
like thats bullshit
Those aren’t that strict compared to some parts of mainland Europe but it’s pretty sensible stuff for safety and emissions thankfully
I enjoy mots but hate falling it lol
The oil leak also isn’t a fail, just a warning
Swear he was taking the piss a bit on the bolts once he saw the emissions fail. I'm literally sat here with the torque wrench now and they're to spec wtf
Top hat bolts and bottom bolts?
What's wrong with the headlight color? Can't have yellow parking lights? The low beams are whiter than the average Finn during polar night
It’s parking lights not headlights
So sidelights have to be yellow, presumably they are the orange bulbs currently
Yellow or white light
Oh yeah it does specify parking lights
Oh yeah I've got orange bulbs in the sidelights for hot boi points. Used to just be advisories tho...
Did you have leveling system for the lights?
Manual adjustment
Guy couldn't figure out how to adjust them tho and I wasnt there to show him...
What's with the smoke? Piston rings too old?
No clue
Suspecting turbo blow by since its a cheap chinese turbo
Needs a bent MOT for the emissions anyway so that should be part of the tester looking the other way
What if you put a restrictive banjo bolt in to reduce pressure?
Not happening
Is it a BB turbo?
If it's a ball bearing you need to have a restrictive banjo bolt, otherwise the pressure is too great for the ball bearings
And it'll start blowing by
would you happen to have a link to one?
or what sort of restriction I should try.... 1mm, 2mm?
No I don't. 2mm would be a safer bet to start with, since you don't want the turbo to starve. The turbos are pretty small so 1mm would probably be fine too.
2.5mm was all i could find that was UK based and not shipping from china...
You should probably check what you have there now
Seems to be either 2.8 or 3mm
My calipers not the best for measuring holes
I'm actually struggling to find anything less than 2.5mm
glad to see brits complain about Chinese products and im not shit talked because i am American and i do
I can probaly find you a 2.0 or 2.5, whats the threads for it
2.3 not 2.5
Ordered a 1.5mm one... From choinuh
Gonna take a month to get here lol
Threads m10x1.25
Oh i found like 3 different 2mm restriction ones with that threading on ebay
"for mazda"
but it restricts
Already got one on the way tho so should be fine, i'm away with work most of the month anyway
so the suspension on the subaru is making noises it shouldn't. passenger rear is crashy and rattly
i know I've tightened it down but I'll pull the rear bench off to double check tomorrow, and add some foam around the fuel hoses in case they're a culprit in the rattlement
make sure you didnt leave a spanner or a socket up there
I almost think I recognise that place lol
damn
that actually looks good despite it using my least favorite gc bumper
what is that lip?
Thought it was the Trafford centre
Its off a mk.1 renault laguna
howd you figure that up?
Old school european mod. Laguna splitters fit everything, just need to cut them to size a bit
Dropped the turd off this morning for an alignment. Guy calls me an hour later to tell me it's done and that other than the steering wheel being a bit on the tilt, the rest of the alignment that was on the car was decent-ish. I had eyeballed the whole thing while the car was on the quickjacks. No string no lasers no nothing lol
That's very nice for eyeballing it, rear camber is the only outliar
Rear camber isnt factory adjustable tho
True. Any idea why they're so off?
Old hubs? Screw hole tolerances? Too thick a coat of paint on something
I need to find a way to lower the idle speed... Its idling at 1100 warm and theres no adjustment left on the TPS and throttle cable...
Does your IACV have adjustment?
not that I can see
the mounting screws are not slotted like on the TPS
this is what my IACV is like
Ah. The older IACV screws are slotted
what?
i swear it is
mayeb its just my struts actualy i forget i do have aftermarket suspension, i like not being oem around here
Need to find a set of these bushes for the prop shaft center bearing where it mounts to the chassis. The solid aliminium ones I have make the thing way too loud, cant even hear myself think from the driveline noise and vibrations, i need dampened bushes
i need sound deadening and everthing not solid
I do believe I have earned the right to stick this on the car
gonna be going for a shakedown run tomorrow. roadtrip from manchester to birmingham. see what breaks
Ooooooh you’ll drive past my gaff if only I was about to come annoy
mate wants to LS swap his MX5, and theres aparently a shop down there that's done like 70 LS swaps into all the random shite possible so far, so we're going to see them so they can have a look at his car and see if they'd be able to do it
dynotorque it's called
need to be there for 10:30 tomorrow morning lol
so it will very much be top gear rules when driving down. if I break down, I'm on my own to wait for the recovery
That seems like a dumb idea but let people do what they want lol
Reminds me I need to take a trip down to race speed developments to get a quote on some exhausty stuffs
Ah yes, I've run some numbers... so far my MPG is...
drumroll
desperately need to get a remap on it, but can't find anyone that still does ecutek remaps on the 99-00 ECUs... so I'd have to get it chipped or go standalone
which is something like £1500 I don't have lol
Ooof yeah not ideal
also still struggling with getting it to idle properly... idling about 1200 and hunting at warm right now. I've tried pulling out the pluger in the IACV to set it, but it just resets itself after it's been turned off. at this point I have no clue what to do other than just drive it around and hope it teaches itself an idle speed. even called up my local subaru dealer and they refused to even look at it because it's too old, which is a bit shite
at least it's running alot smoother now that I've changed the TPS
My mpg is around 8 i think? so be happy that your turbo gets more than me
turn ignition to on for 20 seconds then let idle for 25-30 minutes. cut off for 5 minutes then turn ignition on again for 20 seconds and let idle for 10 minutes, then drive it and test and that should relearn your idle
make aure everything else is off and i mean everything, nothing else should be drawing power except normal operation things that arent required for the car to drive safely
yeah I tried that, didn't do anything. also I'm pretty sure that's only meant for later cars with e-trottle, not cable throttle like mine from what I've seen on the forums
all it messes with is the IACV not the throttle
ive seen it qork on a gc8 i think
damn q gets in the way
mine had a hunting idle at cold because of spark plugs, might check that but i doubt it, PCV system may not be venting right, check and see if there is pressure if you unscrew the oil cap
will check tomorrow
seems decently happy when actually driving tho. the restrictor banjo bolts for teh turbo have arrived as well. a 2.5mm one and a 1.5mm one
Shakedown went OK, no issues other than the high idle, averaged about 33mpg(uk) which isn't THAT bad, given that it's not tuned and i got stuck in a start-stop trafic jam twice both ways with a 1500rpm idle...
Got sent some pictures pictures by the powdercoaters. Sadly turns out my speedlines were quite acneescared underneath their paint...
Haven't been sent after pictures tho so what they look like after they've been primered and powdercoated is a surprise till I go pick them up next week
im sure theyll fix it
My wheels are back yay
👀
Ah yes, turns out my clutch master cylinder is bad...
So need to get it rebuilt
rebuilt? cant buy a new one?
Money.
Blueprint is part of Bilstein group and apparently OE spec
https://www.autodoc.co.uk/blue-print/2895100
It is LHD but is it even different?
yeah I think the port for the hardline is on a different side
also that is definitely not the same as mine
Oh yeah
£47 for the rebuild kit from nabco
Yeah might as well
oh yeah i forgot you weirdos are rhd
im just joking i piss myself off with lhd im about to trade my car for like a 4th gen crx for that rhd
We are just more jdm
Mo-ney-pits! Mo-ney-pits! Mo-ney-pits!
I can’t imagine a Saab being any cheaper than a Impreza that’s for damn sure
£4k in repairs in the first year of ownership... It's a diesel tho, so 55mpg on average
Rip if/when mancs low emission zones get decided on
Will probably go directly to the pay per mile shite tbh. By then I'll have moved back to romania anyway.
The saab is genuinely one of my best buys tho. Most of the repairs were due to the previous owner being a careless maroon who did basically no maintenance and ragged the car for about 4 years, hence why it was only £800 when I bought it. Needed new clutch, flywheel, gearbox, gearshift linkage, intake manifold, engine mounts, and a bunch of bushings, but now other than a faulty door lock and some bodywork it's sorted. Getting it remapped on friday from 150 to 190, and honestly once I move away, I'll be looking to buy another saab, but lhd and petrol to replace this as my daily driver, they're great.
Oh nothing actually too bad and nothing hugely mechanical engine wise
I think the previous dude didn't ever really properly learn to drive a manual, because the clutch and gearbox were fucked to where I had to get a brand new box from sweden. was cheaper to get new, genuine saab box, than to get the current one rebuilt lol.
Lol is that the era of genuine Saab and not gm Saab?
Nah, it's late GM saab. Basically a heavily reingineered mk.1 vectra underneath. I've had a mk.1 vectra in the past tho and the saab drives nothing like it. Was by far one of the most dreadful cars I've owned, while the saab is very comfortable and actually quite planted in the corners... Does have a fair bit of GM partsbin pieces here and there... Oh and the engine is a Fiat engine...
Main reason GM dropped SAAB was because they were too stubborn to just do straight up rebadges like jaguar and volvo were doing for ford, and kept reengineering everything to be ever so slightly a unprofitable thorn in GM's side lol.
Unfortunately it didn’t really work out in their favour for continued existence
At least they died a hero before they could turn into chinese shite... Well they did turn into chinese shite but they lost the right to the SAAB name while doing it, so they died a hero in my book
Oh yeah for sure, it’s a much better death than what happened to MG, resurrected as a hollowed out corpse for cheap Chinese crap branded as a British automotive brand
The one single upside of the GM thing tho, a lot of the consumables are GM partsbin items, so I don't really need to worry about hard to find, dead brand consumables like people with the OG 900s do... Would absolutely love to have an OG 900 turbo tho.
but those have gone up in value past my budget by a lot now. a 2.3 Turbo 9-5 is still within reach, so that will be the next daily once I've moved back to the motherland. or maybe a 9-3 convertible... depends...
bought a thing
Ibat good job
gonna need the wideband sensor and controller for when I go standalone
so may as well get the whole gauge with it too to have on the A-pillar
Easy to see if something has gone wrong at a glance
boost + AFR on the a-pillar, oil temp, and oil pressure in the center console, and maybe a cheeky little toggle switch for antilag down there as well. 95% sure gonna be going with the Link G4, don't know yet if it'll be the G4X or G4+. G4+ is a bit older, but it's £300 cheaper than the G4X
Why not the plugin one?
they are both plugin ones
G4X is the newer version, faster processor and a few extra bits, but overall they do the same stuff
Also by antilag do you mean launch control?
no, I mean antilag
What type do you intend?
Turbos are great! But that boost comes after some lag while the turbo spools up. Some high performance cars are equipped with ANTILAG systems to keep those turbos spinning away! They pop and bang to keep their sweet sweet turbos spooled up! They’re the darlings of Drifting and Rally! We break down the two kinds of antilag systems you’re most lik...
I mean what type, but I presume by that you mean fuel dump
I was gonna say you do know those destroy turbos but then I remembered AFAIK you still have a chinese one
heck yeah, cheap and disposable
also the reason I want it to be on a toggle and not a permanent thing
I'd like a proper antilag system but shit those are expensive
Like the Subaru one which isn't a murder on the turbo
whos antonio
The Russian guy?
no
antonio johnson
ome sec
shit
he has the apexi
its saakib rauf that has the link g4
g3 i mean
Ah, something big ticket like the ECU I kind of want to buy from an actual store so that if somethings broken when it arrives I can send of a replacement/return. Can get the G4+ on it's own, ready to plug into the stock wiring harness for £829 all taxes included here in the UK, then would need to find a tuner to get it mapped properly
hes uk based
Yeah for over a grand it's nice to have insurance
Private seller, even a reputable one, is still private
Shit, a Finnish Facebook BMW group admin scammed a buyer. Good standing doesn't mean jack shit anymore
i know, but I don't really want to drop big money on a used ECU, especially since the G3 is a bit on the old side now, I'd rather just for once on this car, get some professionals to do it
thats why you use pp g&s
reason I'm looking at scooby clinic, they offer the G4+ on the V1-V4, but only an ecutek remap for the stock ECU on the V5-V6 on their website price list. very good price imo for the ecu and remap tho, so might give them a call to see if they also offer the G4+ and remap for the V5-V6
Scoobyclinic UK specialise in performance car tuning. We work with all major performance vehicle brands from our central UK base.
huh wonder if they work for my jdm ej201 ecu
Any info on scoobyupgrades.co.uk? Do I dare to order rails from them? RCM is more expensive
the one based in canterbury?
i've not tried them
yeah
Can you find/bother looking for anything about them?
yeah
sorry went afk but ill look
if this is the guys you are talking about @round skiff, they are 100% legit
got a lot of likes a good few reviews
Yeah
Anti lag valve for Turbo
The all-new addition to the Turbosmart line-up is the fresh air ALV40 (Anti-Lag Valve) for motorsport applications. Featuring a 40mm valve diameter and a purpose designed actuator housing. Multiple fittings are also supplied for ease of fitment and fabrication.
The fresh air valve allows for incoming charged fresh air fr...
I'm struggling a bit on thinking where to put a big old T-piece in the intercooler Y-pipe that I can use to redirect air to the antilag tho. Would also need to get a pipe welded onto the up pipe somewhere to mount the valve to
Looks a lot like a wastegate to me
Weld a barb to one of the IC inlets, that's how we did our dump
Good shout, yeah
I'm pretty sure I've got a couple extra inlets knocking about I can use as a donor
Of course you'll need someone since it's aluminium but that's not a big deal
Unless you have a TIG and skills
Mig can do ally... Wont be pretty, but it can, just need to get the right wire and gas
Can probably get it welded for a lot cheaper
Yeah tbf
I'd say it's not worth it to do it with a MIG, rather save for a TIG
Mig is what I have, but I really don't feel like doing it myself to be honest
I wouldn't even bother trying considering the cost of an alu spool and the prep required, you need everything surgical clean to prevent contamination
Would need to pull the engine out to get the exhaust manifold off to weld the hot side pipe on tho, which would be an absolute pain
Tee from the uppipe would probably be the best bet
Yeah but still need to get the engine out to get to it
Directed with the flow so it won't interfere with manifold pulses
so uh is that a lot of light?
Yes
i think the video quality isnt the best on my side
Video dont show it properly because camera auto adjusts for brightness, but its substantially brighter and further reaching than the stock lights
yeah thats qhat i guessed, my stock halogens look brighter than that is the only reason i said anything
Bit of a downside, sort of, is they're symmetrical beam lights, so they don't have that kick-off into the dirt of the side of the road to light up the trees and shit, but being symmetrical beam means I can drive to europe and not have to stick tape on my headlights to not blind oncoming traffic in lhd countries
Have a crap photo
My hands shake too much to take low light pictures without the shakes
Those wheels look good on that and you’ve won me over on the headlights more now
think I should have probably gotten the 44" one instead of the 38" one.. oh well, it'll still do the job of spoiling any potential lift getting generated in between the roof tent and the roof
Something hit the corner and it chipped
Did you install the center caps before or after installing the wheels onto the car?
Only put the center caps in just now, its when I even noticed the chip
Not possible you nicked the paint when hitting the cap in or was it there already when you approached the wheel?
Was in there already when I went to put the center caps in, and they're just pressed in by hand
Then my best guess would be a very unlucky stone from another car
Fffsss, its a sizeable divot to the touch too, not just the paint gone...
I'll get some touchup gold to put over it but theres literally a chip missing from the wheel now wtf
Odd
partout
Oh no, it’s got a car bra
Its only to hide my stonechips
Fair, I’m just personally not a fan but they are functional
oh what
i just cut my old spewker mounts to fit them, or trim the little cover but
bit
god damn my spelling
Were too big to fit in the factory plastic one, and couldn't screw them directly in the door because it would clash with the window going down
So had to make my own custom angled spacer
🤷♂️
my window hasnt shattered yet ao idk
Had to top up the oil today... by about 2.5L... hope I've not fucked up the engine too much... I'm not hearing any new noises, so maybe just maybe fingers crossed I don't have to pull it out for a rebuild yet...
don't know how long it's been running that low, just noticed the oil pressure on the low side today when out and about my errands
tho... maybe I can find a 207 short block and a set of v5/6 sti heads...
I have found what the rattling on the nearside rear on mine is... It's the trailing arm. Don't know why, haven't been able to get under the car, but i got on the ground and yanked on the trailing arm and sure enough tck-tck-tck-tck... Also the steering is feeling really loose around the center point for some reason. Yay more issues.
Pain. But looks so cool.
AFR and boost by the looks of it. Also, nice color scheme. Fits the cluster really well. Looks like we are going from gauges to a tablet, which isn't as OG but it's more practical
Empty gauge space will be where the antilag switch goes once I get the Link g4 and get bungs welded on the manifold for the bypass valve
You could also put a fuel pressure gauge there. I'm gonna put one in now, after destroying the 2.5 with insufficient fueling. You could put the ALS switch next to the fog light switches on the right
Awww they don't do a fuel pressure gauge in the same model as the rest of my gauges
Also I won't tune the thing for power to within an inch of its life, my goal of 300hp on the 440cc injectors is safe from what I've read
Tbf tho, running out of fuel would show up on the afr as it going lean, so it kind of serves the same warning
Now just need to get a bung welded onto the downpipe so I can plug the sensor for the AFR in as well...
Do you have a wideband controller with output? You can just toss the OEM sensor, put in the WB sensor and run an input wire from the O2 controller to ECU. Better to tune it off direct wideband input anyways.
yeah the AEM has a built in controller and output wires, and will be taking place of the OE narrowband sensors duties once I have the standalone ECU, but while it's still on the OE ECU I have to keep the narrowband in
I assumed the new ECU is coming in now alongside with the gauges etc
nope, not got the money
probably towards winter
fairly dry work-wise and I need to drop £1000 on a trip to thailand for my best friends wedding in november
so I'm a bit stuffed for money...
Fair
will have to read up on how to actually tune stuff myself till then
With this new ECU I'm probably gonna end up saving money since the engine protection would've saved me from both last engine fails
I'm too afraid of knock so I'll leave the proper tuning to the pro. Will have to do a base map to break the engine in, the long block I have is completely rebuilt and hasn't been driven
got a friend who is getting some knock detector... things... to listen for knocks as he's starting to gear up to tune his r32, and he's done some degree of mapping before, so gonna be pestering him for help in getting mine sorted. good thing is he lives in the middle of nowhere in yorkshire so I can just go there and we can drive like mad to do a rolling tune without fear of the po-po, the five-o, the fuzz, the pigs, the rozzers ruining our fun.
Yeah that helps. The knock detection on the ECU will need to be dialed in too so knock cans and a guy who knows what he's hearing is probably the way to go
Also since I happen to have 2 OEM knock sensors I'm gonna do a bank knock detection to be safe
The Apexi was shit in that regard (although at least it had any knock detection) since it only had 1 knock treshold and no control, it only flashed the CEL when it detected knock
Someone took a picture of the turd at a meet I went to on friday, yay
Validation!
Also I broke the splitter going into my garage...
Usually I reverse in, this time I drove in. Mistake.
people take pictures of my car a lot too, havent been to a show lately but heres the latest few
apparently i had my green driving gloves on in those pictures
i like my rs interior but i aslo hate it, its rare and nice but its hit for holding me in and it gets HOT
it's so cool having the boost gauge on the A-pillar now, and watching it go up and down all the time
tho, the reflection from the dashboard onto the windscreen is mental, can barely see sometimes. need to do something about that...
Flock the dash
no
yes
i don't like flocked
Fab up traffic light style cowls for the gauges
no, not the gauges are the problem, its the dashboard shine reflecting into the windscreen
i can see the gauges no problem
Ah, I somehow read that as the light bounces from the dash to the gauges
But yeah that reflection can be very annoying especially if the windshield is old
like 50%
not allowef windshield tint
little
50%
lol
very much illegal
Yeah, can't even tint front windows
only windshield tint i can get is like the clear UV protection tint
which I might actually get at some point
in other news, my passenger side window doesn't like the heat... won't go down if it's hot outside, but after it's been sat in the shade for a bit it works again... fml.
and funny thing is, a friends is doing the same exact thing
i just want wind down windows, no more motors to go wrong lol
well sometimes we dont always get what we want, like i want my radio and windsheild wipers to wprk on every startup and not just on occasion but i dont get that
ooooh, found something that might remeby my reflection issues, and protect the dash from UV cracking and shite...
from 'straya! so you know they know how to deal with the sun
think after i've got the standalone ECU in and running right, I'm gonna start gathering the parts to retrofit A/C to mine...
POV showing how bad the fucking dashboard reflection is...
The dash mat from straya is on the way tho
sadly it won't arrive in time for santa pod next weekend... boooo
Santa pod next weekend?
Ahh very nice
kool
Took a bit of engineering but managed to also attach the windscreen under the roof tent. Was originally mounted too flush to the bars to be able to fit the windscreen mounts so I had to make an extra mounting bar for the windscreen to mount to the underside of the roof tent instead of to the bars directly
@drifting forge do you happen to know if shop4parts is legit?
No clue, dont think ive used them
Only place apparently in the world that has a PS return hose for an Alfa 159
If I recall they basically are a clone of another company and are semi legit but can be dodgy
Adi when so you think youre doing your lhd swap? i may be interested in buying all your rhd goodies to swap my brand new 93 L i got today.
Might be years to be honest
well its gonna be years before i do it, i can swap parts you may need though.
It’s funny how it looks bigger than the car
it definitely is on the oversized side. it's got enough overhang I can see the front edge of it from the driver seat, and the side overhangs are about in line with the bottom of the base of the side windows
I mean if it works then it doesn’t really matter if it looks a little oversized. It’s a good solution really and personally I prefer the look of that over some of the other options
If in doubt, check the oil.
"If in doubt, give your car a few extra dents to make your paint job more expensive." - this idiot, 2022
A bit scrapey, need to bring up the ride height, maybe about 15mm or so on the back
It goes tho
now the next goal is to get 450kmh
Heck ye
Oo we spitting fire
Oh I didnt have all the money, but paypal pay-in-3 is my best friend
well im not 18 yet so i guess im fucked 🤷♂️
hype hype hype
The fireworks will have to wait till the engine comes out again for some reason. Don't think we can weld a bung for the antilag bypass valve on the up-pipe in-situ sadly
So gonna need to wait till the engine is out for some other reason (its a subaru, shouldnt be too long) and take the manifold to be modded then 'while we're at it' for the bypass valve
You gonna keep the Chinesium turbo for the ALS?
sadly no, the chinesium turbo is already on its death bed. I can hear the shaft wobble louder and louder each day. got a rebuilt factory TD04 to go in
Is the air valve gonna be as violent as just plain fuel dump?
no clue, but should be less damaging to both the turbo and the engine. especially the engine since no extra detonation will happen inside it
Got me curious but due to the DBW I'm already all out of inputs and outputs
I don't want to get the CAN extender yet because then the ECU is gonna be more expensive and if I buy it later it doesn't hurt as much
Do any of your (now 3?) imprezas have cruise control? I'm curious about how the system works, if you have it on any of the cars I'd appreciate some pictures of whats involved
Switch to DBW with your ECU and voila
Dbw?
Ah, etrottle. No, too much hassle to retrofit an ethrottle to the intake manifold and pedal and all
It does need a 6mm spacer from what I've investigated, but the pedal adapter is very simple. Another nice feature you can have with DBW is that you can go flatfoot and never hit the rev limiter
But a cable is simple and easy, that's true
Yes my rs and obs do, look in your engine bay near the turbo for a connector to see if you car can support it
other than that, its the module, cable, and controller
not 100% sure if its the same module for rhd or not.
like my 93 L has the connecter for it even though its a L
now if your drive by wire instead of drive by cable i cant help you
cable. take some pictures if you can, got a bunch of random unused connectors
Okay ill go out there is a moment
no rush
think the steering wheel stalks are different too for the cruise control commands, not just the power button in the dash
oh yeah
i forgot about that
its on the steering wheel you have to have the steering wheel for it because of the bracket types
you also need the button
yours is a facelift right?
yeah
99-01
Not got it. Boooo.
okay well look where your intercooler water spray is, is there an extra connecter?
if you have it, mine has the wiring for it but no intercooler
if you sont have that youre fucked, although iwire USA may have a kit for cruise control
i know they have it for about every other conversion
Your factory na wiring wont have anything for turbo stuff, theyre completely different looms.
yeah i know but someone stuck the wiring in there for it, looks like a planned turbo swap before i got it
here
In this blog post, we review cruise control in your Subaru and the options available when doing an engine swap and wanting to retain or add in cruise control.
How Does Cruise Control Work?
There are three types of cruise control depending on your type of Subaru. In general, a cruise control module (external or part of the ECU) uses inputs from ...
i aint reading that bullshit so have fun or something
ope nevermind youre fucked
partout time
ill take your firewall and dash
when you do your lhd swap youll probaly need to get a harness merged for turbo since they are rare as fuck, get a n/a one with all the goodies and then yeah
oh yeah
all that too
just make sure its not a us lhd else you dont get shit, you get cc, foglamps, heated seats, bigmacs, power mirrors. but no servo based hvac or anything
and you have airbags
plan is to just do a harness extension
literally take my existing harness, and extend the wires to mirror it for LHD
euro cars have cable-based HVAC, which tbh, I prefer since theres less to go wrong on it
exactly
cable based ones, no servos to worry about breaking
it's literally just a metal wire. if it snaps, make a new one
hopefully the donor car I'll get will have A/C so I can retrofit that. already have the wiring for that frtunately
heated seats are planned, but just gonna go with putting aftermarket seat heating pads and wiring them in independent of the factory harness
I have the heated seat buttons from a forester in the center console already, so gonna make use of those so that it LOOKS factory at least
so excited for the Link ECU. hopefully this will also eliminate the pesky factory immobiliser so i can go back to the ignition key barrel that matches my door lock keys and have just the one key again
It will, there is no code matching with the ECU so nothing to communicate with
i'm guessing i'm gonna need to set it to "with immob" for mine
do you have fob?
car probably had a fob, but I didn't receive it when I bought the harness and accoutrements no, just the key with the chip inside it
Yeah, regardless if you actually have it or not.
Link arrives tomorrow so I'm gutting the old non turbo ECU for the housing.
1.2k and they don't give you a donor. That's slightly amusing
what did your come with a donor shell?
It did come with a shell, put it's not a PnP
I mean the Link is a PnP
yeah, hence you plug it into your old ECU shell 🤣
just fortunately I have 2 spare ones laying around
a D3 non-turbop ecu I've been trying to sell on ebay for like $20 for the past 6 months, and an E3 v5 turbo ECU that I'm keeping as a spare
Now that I think about it, it really just comes down to "what you mean as PnP" because in my mind it's "You just plug it in place of the old one". This just needs a bit more disassembly
so the D3 is getting binned, and it's shell is being turned into a link
Yeah it's good to have a spare for diagnosis
I don't have that luxury anymore, my harness will be totally mangled
might actually spray it subaru blue tomorrow after I see where I need to make the cutouts for the expansion loom and the diag cable
nah, I don't have the tools or the patience to polish stuff
I did it as low effort as possible, put a fabric wheel onto a drill and used some polishing compound, didn't even sand any scratches
Might do it properly later
Kinda want to do a Speeduino PnP in a Subaru
Prepping the spare factory topmount I have for use while I get a bung for an IAT sensor welded into the big topmount
Did my best to pick at the bent fins
There's not enough meat for just straight tapping?
Ah. Where are you putting it?
Underneath right in the middle?
Underneath is a struggle
I also want it relatively easily accessiblr if it needs changing
I have a pigtail ziptied to the charge pipe and a connector at the end on the firewall
But yea not easy to replace from there
Do you have any power goals for the new ECU, or is it just stock, but better
Yeah that's no problem
The standalone ECU is more about full control over the car than anything else. Will finally be able to find out wtf is wrong with the throttle position sensor circuit
And set my idle speed to what I want
excited
Oh yeeeee
lick ecu
Lick it for good luck
That came out nice
Now we wait for a reply from the supplier with the code
I hate that stupid turbo oil return hose so, so much...
Already hardened or just the location?
Location
Had to cut the old one to get the turbo off, and accidentally destroyed the new one trying to put the new turbo on
If the access wasn't so bad i'd switch to an A/N line, but there is literally no access to stick a wrench in there to do and undo bolts
Yeah
I usually just disconnect the hose from the head and lift the turbo up with the hose
The fact that the bottom fitting on mine is barbed isn't helping
I couldn't find a factory fitting anymore for where it goes into the head, so it's on an aftermarket AN10 fitting with a 90 degree barb elbow going into the factory hose
So it grips extra much when trying to pull
But what that also probably means is I can maybe get away with not putting a clamp on the bottom at all
Should probably just cut the barb and have it seal just with the clamp
Its barbed all the way
Only one I could find in that size sadly...
yeah
Nvm it's a 90
do you remember by any chance what size hose you used, or at least what the I/D was.... my housemate has managed to lose my vernier...
I'm home in a minute, I'll check. But I want to say 16mm
Back from getting the 207 long block
cease tempting me... I've been watchlisting 207 shortblocks and v5/v6 sti heads for the past month... HNNNNNNNGHHH
Just don't get V5/V6 blocks, they aren't semi closed
must resist. must just get my current one running right and enjoy it
allegedly the oil return hose I ordered yesterday is next day delivery , due today, so I'm sitting here watching my CCTV camera for any mail/delivery people
The turbo drain diameter is 16.5, and the hose is 15mm. So go with the 16mm hose, mine was a tight fit and it's silicone which I should replace regardless
Or 5/8"
I should probably go set the height on my rear coilovers while I wait for the hose to arrive..
AH THE MAILMAN ARRIVETH!
Well I'll be damned, it actually was next day
Somehow the factory topmount is a bigger pain to get on than the bigger chinese top mount. I had to actually take off the strut brace for this. Never had to do that for the china one...
Chinese one a smaller core?
probably
What's the fin density on the chinese one? Honestly I feel like out of those two the OEM performs better
if it hit his strut bar on oem probaly around 2-3 centimeters thinner
It's the inside ones they skimp out on
Physically the chinese one is bigger, but the oe one has more shit to get caught on stuff. Don't know which performs better since the chinese one has more area, but less fin density, where the oe one has more fin, but is smaller, and most of the fins are damaged
I noticed you have the stock BCS, are you going to switch to 3-port now that you have full control over it?
Yeah, I've bought a mac 3-port
was it bigger restrictor pill hole = more boost or the other way around?
still on the stock ecu and boost solenoid
gonna be a while until I get everything ready for the link (plus I've got like 3 more weekend camping car shows I want to go to before I make the car undrivable again)
I see
so the links only gonna go in sometime late august/early september, and give me about 2 months to get it mapped and running again before the big roadtrip to romania for the winter holidays
ah. smaller hole, more boost.
epic
So uh, yeah yesterday after I put the car back together it was barely boosting. Like 2-3psi at WOT... Turns out dumb dumb me accidentally put the vacuum hoses back wrong and the restrictor pill ended up between the wastegate and the tee instead of between the turbo compressor feed and the tee. And since the bigger the pill hole, the less boost it runs, no wonder it was barely boosting at all when it had no pill in that line lol.
so the restrictor is for the oil feed?
No, they're for boost control. Though on BB turbo you do need an oil restrictor
All turbo Subarus have boost control stock
i thought they only had a wastegate
Nah, they have a bit shitty solenoid system
Basically a turbo bleeder screw but electronically controlled
hmmok

i spend all my time on that group lol
i saw that post as was abou to come ask you what your lip was but then i scrolled down like 2 inches
I'm there to spread the good word of the Laguna Splitter
yeah i was looking at getting the new L bumper and putting it onto my 93
with that splitter becayse it looks nice
do you know if i also need the bumper beam for that specifically or if they are interchangable
i genuinely don't know when it comes to the US-spec bumper beams. the euro and japanese ones are really skinny, but the US ones are chunky because of the crash regs there, but looking at the radiator openings between the bumper I've got and the prefacelift one your L has, I don't think they're interchangeable
hmm okay
ill just buy one of those lw beams that should work
actually i can just get it at a junkyard
yeah, this is what the euro and jdm beams look like, notice how it's literally barely any material there, just something for the bumper to clip onto, no crash safety stuff
yeah i hate usdm stuff
america sucks
you have an extra you wanna sell me
The WRX and L/GL etc bumper that Adi has have different mounting points, but the WRX one can be fitted if the lower mounts are cut off
thats how i have 3 non rusty bodies
ICP do sell new ones tho https://www.ebay.com/itm/282773869999
absolutely no clue, won't be tseting to find out till mine completely disintegrates and I need a new one
You can mount any bumper to that but there might be leftover mounting points
okay
youre next by the way
Next? What?
me want big snort https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144767193930
me want big snort too
what
did they cut an impreza and make it into a truck
qtf
yeah theres a few impreza pickup about
theres more newage ones tho since Smyth made a ute kit for that at one point.
i sincerely dislike
That actually looks reasonable unlike the hood-sized ones
thats what i was thinking
it's the OE style, but with a taller opening
Yeah that's the proper one
the company that makes them is actually only a few miles away from me, I keep wanting to just go in there one day and go "Hey, you know that hood scoop you sell on eBay? Any chance I could get a cash discount"
I'd like one too, could really use the extra air
aren't you going FMIC tho?
No?
Probably because I'm a moron for running that power level on a TMIC
lol
I am considering going rotated manifold once I have the electrical power steering and I can move my alternator to the side without sacrificing AC
So new boost issue right now where there car will build pressure steadily to about 10psi and then suddenly drop it to about 4-5psi. I've checked the vac lines and they're all connected and i'm not seeing any loose hoses or anything. I'm suspecting the wastegate actuator itself, ordered a new one off bofi racing, hopefully it arrives before 10am on friday when I have to set off in the subaru to a weekend rally...
I’m guessing your not going to Tunerfest at oulton park in a few weeks are you? I wanna come see it
no, my current events plan is:
-citroen car club national rally in abbots ripton this weekend
-USC at santa pod at the start of august
-bangers and cash live 12-13 august in north yorkshire
-autoalex's shedfest on the 28th of august at the british motor museum
tho, oulton park is very much in my neck of the woods
hmmm... do I have to prebook tickets or is there pay at the gate
i can pay at the gate
I might show up, will let you know a few days before when I know if I'll be showing up
That’s fair, I’m heading over there with the north Staffordshire car club and reckoned it was probably in the right area if you were going