3D printing

[slender trail]

:3 ty

[void dove]

Pain

[whole wind]

Ah ha!

I think I found the one component that broke

This little resistor didn't give me a reading when I tested everything with a continuity test

No idea what the rating on the resistor is though so I'll need to do a little digging to find the exact match

[whole wind]

Felt

Oh wait actually I may be dumb I think thats a capacitor

even still

[void dove]

let me see if i can get a friend to take a look at the videos you sent me

@whole wind

[whole wind]

Yeah I looked at those mosfets too with the continuity checker as well but they seemed just fine

Only the one I circled seemed abnormal compared to everything else

[void dove]

@ebon dragon

[ebon dragon]

Check them with a multimeter.
Have the fans set to max speed.
On one of the pins the voltage should be 3 or 5v.
I believe that they're doing high side switching so one should probably be 24v or 0v if they're doing low side switching.

[whole wind]

Alright i'll have to recconect some stuff gimme a couple minutes

I'm trying to remember do 3D printer boards use AC or DC current?

[void dove]

DC i think

[whole wind]

sounds about right

[pliant nebula]

check with a scope

[whole wind]

mmm

well this is unfortunate

might take a little bit

For some reason I can't connect to the pi anymore. I guess I may not have used the static IP

[void dove]

check your router and look at the ip, it may have changed

mine did the same recently

[whole wind]

good point

theere we go thank goodness I can check IP from the router

[pliant nebula]

epic dhcp moment

[void dove]

yeah mine went from 10.0.0.53 to 10.0.0.54 without any notice and i was so confused

[slender trail]

slide to the left

[whole wind]

Got it!

Looks like this one is the troublesome mosfet

No signal through it but the other two work fine

I do still kinda wonder whats up with the capacitor from before that I didn't get any continuity with

[static mist]

eat the capacitor

[whole wind]

Good idea!

use her as an example for the rest of the components

[ebon dragon]

Yeah the fet is probably bad

[whole wind]

yay!

Not a big deal though that should be easy enough to replace

I just gotta figure out the correct one to replace it with

[void dove]

part number AO3400A

[whole wind]

I'd kiss you if I wasn't straight tyty

[void dove]

lmao np

double check both mosfets

[whole wind]

of course, I'll get extras just in case since they're so cheap

[void dove]

yeah 30 cents?

[whole wind]

44 cents on digikey

that being said I can't even afford it atm lol. If I get this new job I'll be able to afford things again

[ebon dragon]

I might have one of those

Or something similar

[void dove]

@whole wind

[whole wind]

allo

Thats good! I still can't afford anything though lol

But in other news I got done with my third interview yesterday so there's a good chance I'll have that job soon

[void dove]

congrats bro!

[whole wind]

Thanks! But we'll see, nothing is set in stone yet

[vast hill]

Doing another huge print, looking good so far 😁

[slender trail]

laughatthisuser~1 bambu lab printer /j

[vast hill]

Not a bambu

[slender trail]

understandable have a great day

[vast hill]

0_o

[void dove]

Magneto X user laughatthisuser~1

[slender trail]

real

[pliant nebula]

its beautiful really

[slender trail]

"yeah but its better than a reprap tho" -every ender user ever

[void dove]

literally ANYTHING is better then Reprap. Even marlin is better. Reprap shit, marlin is ok, Klipper is life

[elfin notch]

im pretty sure they mean the reprap idea not the reprap firmware

[void dove]

even then its true lmfao

[pliant nebula]

spiral z hop is magic

[vast hill]

It's a hell of thing

Better to not need z-hop...but when you do...

[pliant nebula]

my e steps have been off by 50
no wonder i get underextrusion
goddamnit

[whole wind]

That'll do it

[void dove]

F

[slender trail]

my printer tries to home in midair now

nice

[whole wind]

nice

[pliant nebula]

so i fix this and im now getting the best first layers i've ever had
unfortunately bridging is still terrible and overhangs are even worse
cranking cooling made it better but its still awful

[vast hill]

What tool head are you using?

[pliant nebula]

uhhhhhhh
the hotend is stock ender 3 v2 apart from bimetal heat break
the mount is also stock e3v2
and i printed the single 5015 satsana fan duct for it

seems like the bridges just don't wanna stick when they reach the other side

im printing petg

[pliant nebula]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2614805

does this

for shits and giggles i also tried the default ender 3 v2 petg profile in orcaslicer

[vast hill]

Bridges with PETG are always a bit finnicky, but looking at your print that actually looks like wet filament to me

Have you dried it?

[vast hill]

This looks like it was bridging fine but failed to adhere

[pliant nebula]

should be dry
it's been sitting in a drybox at 65 for 8 hours

[vast hill]

Try printing this, it might also be your ducting...

[pliant nebula]

brb

[pliant nebula]

looks the same all around

meanwhile on a benchy with the same settings

[vast hill]

Yeah, benchy has a more extreme overhang, that test I sent just is checking for directionality in your cooling

[vast hill]

Could be layer stacking, how wobbly is your print head on the carriage?

[pliant nebula]

i cant get it to wiggle

[vast hill]

What about the bar it rides on, can you rotate it like your rev-ing a motorcycle at all?

Or do you see any deflection in the print head while printing

[elfin notch]

so my printer mainboard exploded, neat or well stepper driver did but its one of those where its hard mounted to the board

[void dove]

i have a spare but its a stock board from ender

[elfin notch]

I have spare prusa mk3s board so it’s fine

[void dove]

ok, thought id offer it if needed

[elfin notch]

No need

Thanks for the offer though

[elfin notch]

It work

[pliant nebula]

yippee!

my arm based single board computer should be arriving soon so i get to setup klipper

[whole wind]

yay!

[slender trail]

me when x86 based sbc

wait thats just a laptop

[pliant nebula]

theres plenty of chinese "mini pc's" out there that fit the sbc description a lot closer
some of them actually have great price-perf taking size into account

[static mist]

i was half expecting it to explode

[elfin notch]

thats fair i kinda did that as well

[pliant nebula]

6 hours per 1
im thinking of making at least 8

[pliant nebula]

@whole wind if ur still using a g10 build plate, how thick is it?

[whole wind]

1 millimeter

Despite how thin it is, it's still very strong. and heat transfer is pretty good with 1 mil

[pliant nebula]

4

[void dove]

Jesus Christ, funnily enough, this was the first thing I printed with my ender 3 too

The modular wall mounted system, right?

[pliant nebula]

yeah hsw

[pliant nebula]

bought 3 more rolls of black petg yesterday
arrived today early morning

[pliant nebula]

6

it is only now i realize i dont actually have anywhere to mount these

[slender trail]

i cannot get my esteps dialed in for the life of me

i will continue to attempt

[whole wind]

Do not use calibration cubes for esteps

(if that's what you're doing)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7OsnMLDIMw&ab_channel=CNCKitchen

@slender trail

[slender trail]

im not dw

[elfin notch]

as it turns out prusa has a scuffed usb to serial chip with a broken firmware making my klipper not work

[void dove]

im going to post this, if anyone wants them, lmk, and @whole wind plz pin if you can

Free Emergency Pinter Boards

These boards are here for anyone in need of a board if theirs fails spectacularly. They are not great but they are good drop in replacements in the event your board breaks on a chip level. You can either keep it, or return it once you fix your stuff so others can use a board in an emergency case!

The following boards are available

• Creality v4.2.2 (-Board is fully functional.) | Available
• BTT SKR Mini E3 V2 (-Board requires a replacement mini-usb port. Either you can do this or wait until i have it repaired.) | Available

The Following boards are on Loan

Yall are poggers, love you all <3

[elfin notch]

Very cool of you, I think I can flash a new firmware on to the usb to serial chip. If not I can always go the Uart route

[whole wind]

Yeah why not

[void dove]

ty <3

[pliant nebula]

debian 12 doesnt package python2 at all...
i just wasted at least 2 hours...

[pliant nebula]

yippee!

[pliant nebula]

along with klipper i got a better 5015 and cranked the cooling some more, seemed to do wonders for the benchy overhang
i've been able to triple my printing speed

bridges still fail to attach on the other side...

[pliant nebula]

nvm bridges are great now
dunno what fixed it

i have no idea what the fuck im doing
but things are getting better so its clearly working

[elfin notch]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBKsBhFbQNk man makes a diy 5 axis 3d printer and im just happy i got my old printer working with a new board lol

should try to design a corexy system for the old printer though

[slender trail]

what printer

[elfin notch]

original wanhao i3+

[slender trail]

damn

idk much about i3 printers lol

[elfin notch]

yeahh its not a new printer exactly lol

[pliant nebula]

holy shit

[pliant nebula]

i have pushed my ender 3 v2 to 250mm/s
i think i can go further but petg is doing petg stuff

[glad vale]

Making custom add-ons for ikea furniture lul, this is the first time I model and 3D print something.

[void dove]

W in chat for this man

@ivory magnet working on anything fun in the 3d printing world?

@whole wind hows all been going for you?

@woeful parcel anything from you as well?

i need all the updates

[whole wind]

It's been pretty great so far, finished training for my job so now I'm on my own

[void dove]

https://tenor.com/view/ogvhs-woo-wooo-woooo-wooooo-gif-22674107

[glad vale]

https://tenor.com/view/velvetfox-infinite-blue-k-make-sweet-toaster-gif-11798196887046199387

Toaster spotted

[whole wind]

Beep boop

[slender trail]

teach me your ways

[still relic]

Congrats! There's that entire peg board to fill up, I see.

[glad vale]

Ye it's almost empty

I got many things on my desk that could go on the pegboard though

[still relic]

Measuring something with calipers and printing a custom fit holster feels so satisfying.

[glad vale]

I used the plastic ruler in the photo to take measurements lul, but I'm considering getting a caliperr for future projects

[still relic]

Mine wasn't that expensive and all my prints fit like a glove with 0.2mm clearance. I've also seen someone with a digital projector scale the screen to the table, so they could lay the object down and trace it in fusion.

[glad vale]

Ye I know an already decent caliper is "just" 20€

I was just waiting until I find one which has the circular readings part

[still relic]

You mean to take the radius of a fillet along a corner?

[glad vale]

Nop I mean something like this

[still relic]

Oh, that's fancy. It's like flex'n an expensive mechanical watch while a 5$ casio is just as accurate. XD

[glad vale]

I could also take one of the ones with the linear reading but I have somehow unlearned how to read them

[glad vale]

I mean I haven't checked the prices yet, if it costs like 30€ it's fine tho

[still relic]

Mine's a cheap digital, sadly.

[glad vale]

Well it's the easiest one to read, but you can't approximate by yourself

[still relic]

Oh, it's been annoying having to overnight a battery because it started to die in the middle of a project.

[glad vale]

Yes also requiring a battery isn't the nicest thing ever

[still relic]

But yeah, something else to put on the peg board.

I've been doing so much random home improvements. My bathroom fan is a jet engine so I printed a safety cover for the switch so I don't shit myself when taking a morning piss.

[glad vale]

Ye 3D printing is quite useful when you need something very specific that doesn't already exist or is difficult to get

But also for many other things

[pliant nebula]

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/925387578482495559/1248994855938691095/VID20240608163847.mp4?ex=6665b09a&is=66645f1a&hm=4c9351827ecf8415a99815e07f8dff44a8d6005d63dff6ac866e29d6f0c1b15d&

[slender trail]

hear me out

i have like 3 of those shitty things

[ivory magnet]

I love 3d printing. Just upgraded my resin printing set up.........

I lovbe it so much

[whole wind]

Ayyy

Thats either a genuine happy comment about resin or a sarcastic statement about the annoyances of 3D printing

either one completely valid lol

[ivory magnet]

No, that’s a legit comment hahaha

Every print has been beautiful.

Well, after I replaced the fep after tearing it slightly on accident because the prints weren’t sticking to the build plate.

Now it sounds like I’m being sarcastic again. But legit, happy 😂

[whole wind]

[pliant nebula]

forgot to press the cooldown button before unscrewing a nozzle by hand

[whole wind]

[elfin notch]

yeahhh done that a few times

[pliant nebula]

the long boi

this is cursed

[whole wind]

that's an insane volcano extruder

although that being said

I bet you could get some insane speed out of that bad boi

[elfin notch]

It has something like 110mm^3/s of throughput

But you can’t print super fast due to it mounting to a v6 heat sink iirc

It would move at high accelerations

Well more like flex

[whole wind]

Oof

[pliant nebula]

how often do you guys replace nozzles

[whole wind]

Depends on how often the printer is being used but I'd say maybe once every month or so

at least thats with the cheapo brass nozzles

in reality you just change it pretty much whenever you start seeing a change in print quality

[pliant nebula]

yeah about the same for me it seems

[pliant nebula]

hmm

[glad vale]

You have to replace nozzles?

[glad vale]

What is that causes the nozzle to not be as good anymore?

[whole wind]

That would be the constant grinding of material, some fillaments are more coarse than others so the wear down time will differ depending on what your use. You can think of fillament as a kind of fine grit sandpaper. As it forces its way through the nozzle the opening will open up little by little. The very tip of it also rubs against the material that already got extruded too.

[glad vale]

Ye makes sense, thankies

[whole wind]

Of course!

[void dove]

What upgrades? And what printer? :D

[void dove]

https://tenor.com/view/3d-printer-printing-modern-technology-3d-printing-machine-prototype-gif-14513987

[whole wind]

The dream

[slender trail]

hacksmith industries

[whole wind]

Man that's a big ass box

[whole wind]

First print looks good so far, might need to adjust some settings though

[glad vale]

0.2mm layer height?

[whole wind]

nope .4

I do have a .2 coming in the mail soon though

[glad vale]

Thickness of the layers, not diameter of the nozzle

[whole wind]

oh

yeah I have no idea lol it was the default one loaded on the printer

[glad vale]

I guess it's 0.2mm then, I also just printed the preload boat on my 3D printer, then opened the file in a slicer and compared 0.2mm layer thickness preview and they looked exactly the same

[whole wind]

Gotcha

[glad vale]

I kinda messed up my benchy because after loading the filament I didn't remove the oozed material

But it got basically inglobed by the print

Everything after that didn't have issues though

[whole wind]

nice!

did you use the sample material the printer came with or was that from a spool?

[pliant nebula]

forgot to backup my orca settings

reset windows

[pliant nebula]

all my filament is wet as shit

[glad vale]

I used the sample material but I have the spool too

[pliant nebula]

dried my filament
used the 0.6 generic klipper preset
added a G28 to my start gcode
seems to be printing perfectly

glad to see things just working sometimes

[glad vale]

I gotta figure a way to attach this to the desk without going on the desk area (absolutely impossible without magnets)

Or I could go on the desk just a bit, but it would be nicer the impossible way

I could use double-sided tape positioned vertically though

And also orizontally

Wouldn't be easily removable though, but that's fine since I'm probably not gonna ever need to remove it

Does anybody know if double-sided tape gets weaker with time? (when used indoors)

[elfin notch]

i mean kinda, you do have a pulling force of whatever the weight is of the part plus the weight of the headphones that are gonna end up with a bit of a leveraging effect. just get some double sided tape that is rated for higher continous loads then what the headphones and the part is going to produce

[glad vale]

I think I could use the metal part so that I have some tape vertically so that there's at least some kind of friction holding the thing other than the strength of the adhesive on the tape

[elfin notch]

I mean if you do have some Metal why not use magnets?

[glad vale]

I was thinking about it, but where the heck do I get magnets strong enough?

[elfin notch]

Amazon should have strong enough magnets

[glad vale]

Considering that there are those 5/6 cm of lever between the metal part and where I want to put the holder they would have to be really strong magnets

And even then the printed part would have to be strong enough

Or I could just put the hanger right under the metal part, but it wouldn't be as easily accessible

[pliant nebula]

hm.

[elfin notch]

dual z motors?

[pliant nebula]

no its just bad bed level

1mm bad bed level

[slender trail]

https://tenor.com/view/down-the-slope-red-bull-snowboarding-drop-the-slope-gif-21741181

[pliant nebula]

wavy as the high seas what the fuck is this

[glad vale]

Are those the auto-leveling results?

[pliant nebula]

ye

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6656183

[pliant nebula]

this benchy i just printed feels so solid i dont think i can break it with my hands

i cant get the chimney off wtf

petg with high part cooling
i thought layer adhesion was supposed to be bad

[slender trail]

thats what happened

lol

i had a roll of clear petg that printed white somehow

[void dove]

@pliant nebula feel free to ask for help

[pliant nebula]

nah we balling

[void dove]

bro wtf we have the same buildplate

well almost

[pliant nebula]

whats the other side like

[pliant nebula]

god
sunlu petg is the worst piece of shit filament i have ever had the displeasure of using
i still have 2 rolls left
i bought a bunch cuz it was super cheap in my local store
worst mistake of my life

[void dove]

smoth

magnetic

[pliant nebula]

i got a cf pattern on the other side

[void dove]

Ohhh luckyy

Hows that look after a print

[void dove]

ilove that

[glad vale]

Finallyy loaded the spool! (I was using this white thing before)

Finished the print, and man black looks nice

Do not ask me why I left that space

It still works but without that it would be betterrr

[glad vale]

Next ones gonna be like this

[whole wind]

teeny!

[void dove]

i would say thats average sized

[whole wind]

some might even say that's at least 6 inches

[void dove]

It is

Basic meth

[whole wind]

Went through a few iterations but finally got something that works nicely for my practice lock

Even got storage in the back for pins and springs

[glad vale]

Nothing provides the STL files for the CMF Phone (1)'s back cover! it's nice especially since an original back cover is 30€

[glad vale]

How often should I be doing auto bed leveling and Z offset calibration?

[void dove]

WHAT PRINTER DO YOU USE

sorry caps

and what are you using as far as firmware goes

[glad vale]

Ender 3 v3 KE

[glad vale]

Latest one I think

[void dove]

tf do you mean "latest"

Options are
Klipper
Marlin
Reprap

I'm on and ender 3 but just that, the Ender 3

and i use klipper

[glad vale]

I have the latest firmware from Creality

It's based on Klipper

[void dove]

so assuming marlin

can you link me the f

fw

[glad vale]

What?

[void dove]

firmware

[glad vale]

You want me to send you a link for the firmware of the Ender 3 v3 KE?

[void dove]

the one youre currently on yes

because based on your answer, there are plugins that make the leveling easy and painless

[glad vale]

https://github.com/CrealityOfficial/Ender-3_V3_KE_Klipper/releases

[glad vale]

It already is easy and painless, I just wanted to know how often I should do it, because I don't think it's something that you only do once and then forget about, is it?

[void dove]

i really wouldnt do once and done. i tend to do it right before each print

that helps me ounteract any warping the bed has gone through during cooling or heating

you can also use things like KAMP to make it only level the parts of the bed the print physically touches

[glad vale]

It is indeed usually activated by default before each print, but it usually takes like 20 minutes which is often more than the actual printing time, so I just do it once a couple of days, but it never gave me problems

[void dove]

that way you arent waiting for minutes calibrating the whole thing when youre only using a small area. it also helps with adheison so it sticks better

I would look into Klipper Adaptive Meshing Protocol(KAMP) and making your probe only probe each spot once or twice and at a higher speed

that way its only takes upwards of 45 seconds rather then minutes for no reason

incase youre wondering if i do indeed know what im talking about

[glad vale]

That might be useful for calibration before each print, but still if I'm printing 3 times in a row I don't need to calibrate each time, do I?

[void dove]

well its good practice just incase you move something in a way you didnt mean to and it changes the offset

[glad vale]

I modeled and 3D printed a grip extension for the EOS R10! It's fixed with tape right now because I don't have a 1/4" screw yet

[void dove]

hell yeah!

[glad vale]

Updates to the grip extension because I only had this 1/4" screw at home

I'm also moving the Z seam and rounding some corners though

I'm probably also gonna make a hole so that I can move the screw with 2 fingers rather than 1

But first I'll try to add some rubberised material to the top of the current one, since it should make a big difference if I find the right one

[glad vale]

I've added neoprene! It makes lots of friction without sticking to the camera, which is exactly what I needed

[void dove]

sick!

[pliant nebula]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ddwNZ12_qX8

[ivory magnet]

No, I’m definitely dying 10 years sooner due to resin printing.

[pliant nebula]

real

[void dove]

but first drink it all then swallow a mini uv light

/j

[whole wind]

Das a Lotta poop

[pliant nebula]

poop on the floor

gotta potty train ur printer

[whole wind]

fr

[ivory magnet]

Currently printing a clear fractal vise.

I have always wanted one

it's like, 50 components though lol

[whole wind]

Good luck with that, sounds like a mess lol

[ivory magnet]

All components printed. Now for ordering hardware.

[glad vale]

Looks really cool, what are you gonna do with it?

[ivory magnet]

Use it like a vise hahaha

😂

[glad vale]

Does it being clear have any particular advantage over being opaque?

[ivory magnet]

nah, I just like printing clear resin stuff.

[void dove]

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/USMj-s8qQP4?feature=share

[whole wind]

I wish I could do that with FDM printing. Need to make a custom panel for my Raspberry pi computer case

[ivory magnet]

Just waiting on a few oddly sized m3 bolts and she done

[pliant nebula]

my ender 3 just nearly jiggled itself off my table

i caught that shit as it tipped over

holy fuck

1.5 hours into a 3 hour print too

[void dove]

you can

[void dove]

ive had this happen before

[void dove]

woah its one of those banana shaping vices

whats the strength quality like

[whole wind]

Yeah but like, with the same results

Always comes out as cloudy

[void dove]

https://youtu.be/t5b2JURmNTA

[whole wind]

yeah that's still showing a clear distinction between fdm and resin.

I dont think anyone would want something this cloudy for a computer case window.

[elfin notch]

printing a mini north case?

[whole wind]

correct!

already halfway done

Just waiting on some supplies to arrive

[hazy nimbus]

hey, i'd like to set up a printer in my apartment's shared basement and need opinions from people who know their stuff:
-I'm planning on getting a resin printer, since i mostly want to print finely-detailled small objects (in the realm of dice for mold-making, tiny miniatures, etc)
-the shared basement is not ventilated at all, only a tiny window (less than 25cm) lets in air. my partition is sufficiently separated from the others to ensure safety though.
-but then again, people rarely go down there anyways

should i, if i do this, install some sort of active ventilation pipe to the window? or would it be enough to use the filters often sold with the resin printers, to not stink and gas up the basement?

[vast hill]

The filters sold with resin printers are a joke. They do not use activated carbon, instead using fish tank carbon filters which remove smell, but and do not remove the toxic elements resin off-gasses.

[hazy nimbus]

planned on getting an elegoo, not a single purifier they sell doesn't use activated carbon, unless they're lying in their specs

[vast hill]

The ones of theirs I've cut open did not have activated carbon. It's possible they have changed, but I doubt it...

[hazy nimbus]

worst case I'll activate it myself

[vast hill]

Regardless, there isn't enough carbon mass

I would reccomend getting a VOC detector and leaving it down there

[hazy nimbus]

hmm, perhaps I'll put the one from amazon there then.
I'll still add the elegoo filters to at least reduce the smell; as long as the other tenants don't smell too much they shouldn't start complaining to the landlord

[vast hill]

If you want to be safe, id reccomend something like this:
https://mandalaroseworks.com/products/nevermore-stealthmax-hardware-kit

[void dove]

@ivory magnet sorry for the ping but thought id ask, how much do you know about creation for things for 3d printing? i only know it through blender a bit but i have issues sometimes. Im just trying to make a drive bay for my Homelab server but im having some troubles coming up wiht a design

Im using a Dell Optiplex 3080 as the base for the server

[void dove]

https://ss.alinktotheserver.pw/u/2024-08-08_06:29:41.png

Concept 1, i may make a few more variations, however i do like the design on this one

[little plume]

Hmmm

[void dove]

sup

[past kestrel]

what do you do if your prints are pulling off the bed

my prints are like STUCK on but the edges are pulling up

[vast hill]

Glue stick/hair spray/vision miner nano adhesive

Make sure the bed is clean, etc

[past kestrel]

is it just the bed or can it be cooling?

room temp etc

cause again my prints are like locked to the bed until it fully cools

plus im on a textured bed

[whole wind]

I hope there's vents for cooling on that

[past kestrel]

my rooms pretty cool

[whole wind]

Bed temps are probably too low

[past kestrel]

its 65c

it did improve when i went up 5c i think so i could try 70c maybe

but that mightve just been cause it was a different part

[whole wind]

What fillament type?

Also how are the corners of your model?

[past kestrel]

pla polymaker

[past kestrel]

on this pic the bed side is the left

[vast hill]

If it's PLA your way too hot

Could be warping because of that

[past kestrel]

i just tried 65 for one print

should i try lower

should i try 55 or 50 idk how severe the warping is

[past kestrel]

this was 60c

[past kestrel]

its only happening on big prints which is pissing me off cause i cant test whether it fixed and adjust when the print is like 6 hours

[vast hill]

Use what the roll says

Bed temp recommendation should be based on the vitrification temp, the bed temp should be just below that

[whole wind]

Usually if it's from big prints it's because the bed heating is uneven across the plate. A lot of cheap heated beds suffer from that exact issue. Something you can try is adding a large brim to your print or even better, add something called mouse ears to the corners which is basically a targeted brim.

https://the3dprinterbee.com/mouse-ears-brim-ears/

[whole wind]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IdNA_hWiyE&ab_channel=GeekDetour

[heady tundra]

whats the best 3d printer that can hot swap 2 different filaments

i wanna be able to print one of those water soluble filaments for support structures

[errant fern]

I haven't used my printer in a bit is there anything aside from dust I should be looking at to get it back up and running properly? I'll probably do a test print later today see how it goes.

[heady tundra]

look for any gunk on z axis rod if you have one, dust the filament if its been exposed, and definitely run a test print before printing something important

[errant fern]

Alr. My filament should hopefully be fine since its permanently in a box. I'm more worried about humidity here. (I'm currently running it through the dryer.)

I do have a z-axis rode that I'll clean

I kind of want to move things around soI can have a box to protect my printer from dust build up but it currently wouldn't work.

[errant fern]

Oki gunk has been removed, printer bed levelled. I need to dust some part but I should be ready to do a test print later once I fill it with filament

And hopefully I should be able to print this thing out https://github.com/ww123td/mini-trackball/tree/BTU/hardware/mechanicals_BTU

Probably going to be the longest print I've ever done 🙏

I'll try printing and then buy the Ball transfer unit in case something goes wrong with that

[heady tundra]

hell yeah

[heady tundra]

Alr

[errant fern]

aah I might have to change the settings again. I think I lost the settings I was using before 😩

At least it's eating up

I'm gonna be printing a benchy

[heady tundra]

oh uh

do you have lithium grease

you may or may not need it after wiping down the z rod

[errant fern]

I wiped it this morning so that should be fine. It's the speed settings and all that jazz that I don't think I've saved.

I'll change that later once the benchy finishes printing. Should be done in like 40m

[heady tundra]

Ah okay

which printer you got btw?

[errant fern]

sovol sv06

First layer seem to be sticking

[heady tundra]

oh kinda like a suped up ender 3?

[errant fern]

Kind of yeah

[heady tundra]

damn dual z axis

[errant fern]

I've been hearing the creality has been falling off a lot when I was looking for a printer so I got this one instead

[heady tundra]

Never really heard anything good or bad

or anything tbh

[errant fern]

When I was looking there's been a lot of report of lower quality parts being used and the support was bad on the 3dprinter subreddit.

[heady tundra]

ah I see

[errant fern]

Lower quality parts compared to previous version of the Ender just to be clear

[heady tundra]

the hell 😭

[errant fern]

I've been thinking, since I've been meaning to learn FreeCAD I might try and make a stand for my phone so I can use it to remotely see the print.

[heady tundra]

gonna use the phone to host octoprint or something?

[errant fern]

Already doing that

[heady tundra]

ah

[errant fern]

I just don't have anything to hold it

[heady tundra]

Ohhh I see

hell yeah do that

[errant fern]

For any lurkers https://github.com/feelfreelinux/octo4a

[errant fern]

Not bad, there's some webbing but it doesn't seem too bad.

Blurry pic shall be enough

Since the last time I used the webcam it seems to have improved

It used to stutter 90% of the time and now it seem consistent

It makes it actually useful

[heady tundra]

Nice

[errant fern]

It's time to print some towers to see what settings work or not.

I'm doing a fan speed tower. I'm aware that the fan is not super great to cool the filament so that might be a mod I do if I am to print more often.

[errant fern]

Hmmm I think I'll have to play with the belts a bit

For the fans it seems that 100% is the way to-go with the current fan

[errant fern]

Is this tower even useful to tune these kind of inconsistency 😭

[heady tundra]

It could be a million things

3d printing subreddit might know

[errant fern]

The 3d benchy looked fine overall so it might just be the speed. Though some people have been able to print at 150mm/s on theirs 🤔 oh well it's something I'll have to figure out over the week.

[errant fern]

I might have an idea on what's going on. The gears starts grinding if I tighten the Z-axis belt too much as it goes up so perhaps they aren't straight or something like that.

[heady tundra]

Oh that's awful

I know on bed slingers there should be a tiny bit of slop

I'm not sure with z axis though

[errant fern]

I might have found why

The left spinny rod isn't straight

The other one doesn't do that

As it goes up it might move the nuzzle a tiiinny bit which causes the jitter when printing.

I'm not sure how I've never noticed that

[heady tundra]

yeah thats really bad

you might need to replace the rod if tightening it doesnt work

you can roll it on a desk and if it doesnt roll straight or kinda wobbles, it needs replacing

[errant fern]

I can see it's not straight just based off the straight rod next to it. It's not by a huge amount but it goes back and forth as it spins.

[heady tundra]

it needs to be replaced then

theres no bending it back or anything unfortunately

[elfin notch]

z axis belt? i think you have your axis confused

[errant fern]

X axis yeah

[elfin notch]

also before spending money on a new z axis rod/ leadscrew. try checking if its something else, some movement on a z rod is not uncommon and usually shows up more consistenly on the model

if the printer has 2 z axis motors the X axis might have become askew

not sure how common that is on newer printers with 2 z motors though

also curious what temp and material are you using?

[errant fern]

Pla+ at 210/60

I haven't played with temp yet but it seemed fine. I'll probably drop it again to see if it helps with stringing

[errant fern]

Guess I'll be printing a lot today to get that figured out. I know that printers should compensate for a tiny bit of wobble in the rod. I'll be checking if at least the layers are consistent.

The benchy I printed seemed to not have nearly as much wobble overall. It seems to be mostly present on the towers I printed.

[errant fern]

My tower theory might just be right

It's a big difference

[heady tundra]

dangggg

[errant fern]

Ok I'll go balls deep and try a 4 hour print for fun

[errant fern]

The print looks pretty good

[heady tundra]

show :3

[errant fern]

Some parts bent a little bit a the bottom but it's a usable piece.

It do be holding USB sticks and SD cards fine 🫡

[heady tundra]

nice :3

[heady tundra]

yea I've noticed too when printing long and relatively thin pieces, but usually never bends enough for me to care

[errant fern]

Oki today I'm gonna try printing the shell. See you all in 9 hours 🙏

[errant fern]

Second layer started 🙏

[heady tundra]

hell yeah, hows it going so far?

[errant fern]

I'd say it's going well

[heady tundra]

its going super well yea :3

[errant fern]

I'm more worried of the flat surface near the top but assuming the support all print well it should be fine

[heady tundra]

the support looks really good in the pic, you should be fine

[errant fern]

Ahh crap oneof the support just fell

It's halfway through so I'll leave it printing and see how it goes. Maybe it won't be needed.

Nvm I think I should abort. Another one is on the verge of falling.

You know what. It's time for an experiment. I'll keep it going and see I managed to get the second support straight and it seems to be holding

Looking at the layers they don't seem to be the most important so maybe there's a chance I'll get a successful print. Though I'll have to watch out for extra filament. I don't have the plugin to remove portion of prints installed.

[heady tundra]

holy

[heady tundra]

aw that really sucks

you could use hairspray or a gluestick maybe

[heady tundra]

ah i see

[errant fern]

The print is almost finish and looks really good atm. Still 50 minutes to go.

[heady tundra]

Nice :3

[errant fern]

Though I'll ask if supports were even needed. The design seem to suggest that it might not. The hardest part is that there's a pretty medium sized bridge at the bottom. Everything else seem to slowly go up and naturally bridge together.

[heady tundra]

Usually it'll say from the source you downloaded it from if supports were needed or not

Or did you do some 3d modeling?

[errant fern]

Its a design I found on GitHub for the Ploopy Mini

It's modified to use BTU instead of the usual roller bearing

[heady tundra]

Ah I see, I dunno about there, but on thingiverse there's a little place for printing specs like that

[heady tundra]

Oh I see

[errant fern]

Not bad. Hopefully the supports aren't too much of a pain to remove.

[errant fern]

This is the moment I'm starting to regret using support

[heady tundra]

Oh that geometry

that sucks

[errant fern]

I think I removed a good portion and I might be able to use it for the most part. There's still bits inside the BTU sockets though. I think I might use a dremel to get it all removed.

Anyways I guess it's time to order these BTU thingies

[heady tundra]

oop

[errant fern]

OK Just confirmed that I'll have to remove more support.

[errant fern]

Oomgaaa 18$ a pop

[heady tundra]

holy

[errant fern]

Welp that's 130$ down the drain with shipping. I ordered 4 just in case but that's so expensive.

There are cheap clones but they are apparently inconsistent so I decided to go with something safe.

[whole wind]

Sheeesh

whacha makin?

[errant fern]

https://libreddit.bus-hit.me/r/ploopy/comments/1csajbz/ploopy_mini_btu_mod_plus_extra_40mm_ball_mod/

I got the shell ready and just need the BTUs

Expensive sons of beaches

[whole wind]

Ah understood

[errant fern]

They are apparently coming today but I honestly think it'll be a tomorrow or Friday thing

[errant fern]

Beautiful

[errant fern]

I'm having difficulties getting them in the holes so I might just open them up enough to insert them and if necessary I'll use some glue or something to keep them in there.

I'm not sure about glue as that could be annoying for longterm maintenance 🤔

[heady tundra]

oh glue into what holes?

[errant fern]

gawd dammit I almost got it...the ball is a little too far from the sensor

The BTUs probably need to go deeper still

Though I can tell why people like this mod. It's so smooth in all direction.

Although much noisier

[heady tundra]

I just looked at this

are you making a track ball mouse..

[errant fern]

I'm modding the one I already have

[heady tundra]

Ah okay

[errant fern]

This is getting quite frustrating

I'm like almost there but the last one is hard as I don't have an easy way to push it deeper with some tools

It moves the mouse but stutters because of the distance. The tease is real with this one....

[errant fern]

I'm super close. It's mostly smooth but skips a bit.

[heady tundra]

nice!

[errant fern]

Ok I think I got it

[heady tundra]

working flawlessly?

[errant fern]

Not entirely. Still need a little bit but it seems smooth when I press the ball a tiny bit. I think once I get the screws in tight enough it should be fine

[heady tundra]

ah i see

[errant fern]

hmm not sure what the problem is now but when I tighten the top down, the lenses move around when it's not supposed to

Ok seem to work now

Still a bit of play but much better

Moving the mouse is so much easier. to the point of being kind of too sensitive lmao.

[heady tundra]

hell yeah

[umbral edge]

I have encountered a deadly combo

Cold room and silk pla

It'll print but god

First layer doesn't stick at all

Tolerances are intolerant

Underextrusion is an understatement

Layer lines print fine, but the vertically aligned walls just don't stick at all

So my springs are like

50/50

Look at those gaps between the walls

Working on a counter and it's horrible lol

[umbral edge]

Debating on just like

Making a damn enclosure

[elfin notch]

For the love of god don’t use silk filament for anything that is not purely cosmetic, the additives in silk filament kills all layer adhesion

It also tends to be more hygroscopic even pla versions of it

[umbral edge]

I've learned this now

Underextrusion+silk is wonderful

[umbral edge]

I love on the southern East Coast of the US so humidity is horrible lol

Looking at sunlu petg

But I'm spooked by it being more hygroscopic than pla is

I don't normally have issues with that tho

Even with my high humidity

Ive had year old exposed filament work fine

I need new filament but idk what to get

Ehh fuck it I'll just grab some

[elfin notch]

While petg is hygroscopic it should be fine for a long time tbh

[past kestrel]

i have a textured build plate and i have a print now that i really dont want the texture on can i potentially flip it over if its only for like a couple hour long print?

assuming i recalibrate the bed leveling and stuff

z offset

[vast hill]

Use a layer of glue stick and it should be fine, yeah

You can put glue stick on sheet metal and it works

[past kestrel]

cool

[past kestrel]

did i put too much glue or is this normal finish

im fine with the part either way so just curious

[vast hill]

Probably just bad leveling

[past kestrel]

what are the effects of needing to change the nozzle

[vast hill]

Inconsistent extrusion and bad adhesion usually

It is usually pretty obvious when you compare to a good nozzle

[umbral edge]

:3
Printing perfect first layers for first try after levelling :3
(Second try tbh, was being lazy with settings on first one lol)

[umbral edge]

got a cr touch but i dont have an sd card so i cant use it yet

all my sd cards have been eated by this printerrr

[heady tundra]

you are obligated to run them all in raid 0

[errant fern]

Do you have a serial port or something like that on your printer?

If you do save yourself some pain and use
https://octoprint.org/download/ on a Pi or an old Android Phone @umbral edge

Good lord how many Jays are there in this server

[heady tundra]

too many

[umbral edge]

idk

e3 pro

i dont have a raspi to use for octo

[errant fern]

Apparently it does

Any old android phone also work

[umbral edge]

i dont have an old android with a functioning port, or a functioning screen

[errant fern]

uuh look for one on the used market idk. It's going to save you a lot of time.

[umbral edge]

how?

[errant fern]

Allows you to upload your print wirelessly. No need for SD card

It connects directly to most slicers

[umbral edge]

i dont have an sd card period

implying that i dont use those

i run it via usb

with my laptop

i can do it wirelessly already

[errant fern]

Am I misunderstanding something then

[umbral edge]

in order to flash firmware you have to use an sd card

[errant fern]

oooh

yeah I am

[umbral edge]

mhm

literally any time i have a printer issue people tell me to use octoprint and it has never been the solution

honestly pisses me off

not mad at u

just how often i get told to spend 50$ on unneccesary hardware

[errant fern]

I was like "Are you one of those weirdos still using mSD card to print?"

Total misunderstanding on my part

[umbral edge]

mhm

i just use a laptop

im having amazing issues with the filament i got now tho

"thermal runaway"

my fuckin ass

its not

the temps literally arent even going down or up any

its shitty firmware

[errant fern]

As long as it's not hardware

[umbral edge]

and i have to update it to use my damn cr touch anyways

so i might as well just restart with marlin

to hopefully fix this POS printer

it works fine for fuckin years

and now i cant do basic things

[errant fern]

That's the classic

[umbral edge]

the thermistor works fine

but it just fails randomly

because it cant use its fans properly

like once it starts printing

fucking mint

really nice

but itll get 10 min into a print

"oops we dropped 5c because the auto temp regulation is really bad, time to scream extremely loudly and stop the print, buring a glob of filament into the hotend"

im extremely pissed off rn

[past kestrel]

gonna print in transparent blue petg so it matches my console

[umbral edge]

Nooo
Bambu printers forced cloud dependency :(

Updated terms of sale and everything

This is a huge L

You have to get an account and shit

It's for "cyber security" updates

But like

You can use it via LAN

Or just not connecting to Internet

But not anymore

Restrictions on the third party tools they use and everything

It sucks cuz their firmware is fucking great

[whole wind]

That's unfortunate.

[heady tundra]

"thats informative, and unfortunate"

[errant fern]

Bambu was already a huge L in many ways before that tbh

Proprietary parts and until they fixed that you also needed internet for it to even work

The fact it's connected to the cloud should als scare anyone who wants to do prototyping professionally because of NDAs

[errant fern]

Informative and unfortunate
https://youtu.be/aIyaDD8onIE

[whole wind]

yup

[umbral edge]

I'm still gonna probs buy one of their printers eventually

Just cuz like

They are really fucking reliable and high quality

Same reasoning behind me owning a qpro

[whole wind]

That is true, I have no plans on getting rid of my A1 after this. but tbh I'll probably avoid buying any future printers from them.

[umbral edge]

Mhm

If I ever get the money and time imma make a large corexy printer

A proper linear rail one

They are relatively simple machines

[errant fern]

I'd look at Prusa for reliability honestly

Bambus are until they aren't and I've seen nightmare stories of people trying to fix them

[umbral edge]

I've seen the same for prusa

But prusa stuff defo does seem more serviceable lol

Only issues there is the bambu printers are faster and more precise at the same price point

For now imma just update the firmware

Of my lil fucker

Repaste the thermistor

And try again

[vast hill]

So...here's the thing about faster. Its extremely relative. If a print gets done at 6 hours vs 8 hours, objectively one of those is faster. But as a consumer, that still only equates to me doing 2 prints in a given day. Something always comes up, or I'm not paying attention to my phone, or any number of 1000 other things. I have 3 printers. A Magneto X, an AnkerMake M5c, and a Bambu x1c...guess what? I get the same number of prints per day out of all 3, even though the Magneto SMOKES the other 2 on speed AND precision. At the end of the day...unless you are talking about SIGNIFICANT differences, going that fast really does not make any meaningful difference.

Build volume, on the other hand, makes a lot bigger of a difference than speed if you are printing stuff that actually uses it.

[umbral edge]

I end up spending a full 14 hour day doing rapid prototyping, so having it be repeatably precise for like 40 small prints in a day, and having it be enclosed does fucking wonders for my kinda workflow

I don't make big things, just complicated small things

Extremely repeatable precision across multiple materials without much fucking around, while still being very affordable, is what is attractive to me

[elfin notch]

id say the precision is about the same or better on prusa from the very short time i used a X1C at an old school

[heady tundra]

https://youtu.be/UYhYkpYpt58?si=jowCSgJKsuwTjHbC

B)

[whole wind]

lmao

[errant fern]

https://tenor.com/view/laughing-duck-gif-1363576254939741235

[umbral edge]

I knew it would happen

Also Marlin installed

Cr touch installed and working

[umbral edge]

This was difficult

[umbral edge]

Yeah so my thermal issues seem to have just been my psu being on 230 rather than 115v...

[errant fern]

It's often the simple things isn't it

[umbral edge]

My slicer settings are super refined now tho

[umbral edge]

This can support my full weight on both sides!

It's just a lil ring

[umbral edge]

using the flat side of my glass bed now

cleaned very carefully

coated in hairspray

and WOW

this has good adhesion now

first layer i didnt even "squish" it against bed so it had higher surface area and pressure against bed

it just stuck perfectly

[umbral edge]

Progress perchance

[heady tundra]

hopefully results in something

[elfin notch]

They really did say “eat shit bambu”

[past kestrel]

can you damage the printer by printing way below the correct temperature

accidentally printed my 230-240 petg at 195 for a while

[vast hill]

Not generally but depends on your extruder

Usually just results in shredded plastic in the extruder

Clean it out and your probably golden

[past kestrel]

i mean its printing well now so🫣

[vast hill]

Just try not to make a habit of that then 😁

(I'd still probably open up the extruder and clean it out, you might miss steps if there's enough shreds in there, and if you try and print PLA the shredded PETG might cause a clog)

[past kestrel]

ok

i probably have to switch it out anyway would just switching it out work?

[vast hill]

Switching what out?

[past kestrel]

nozzle

mb

[vast hill]

No, the extruder is above the hot end

[past kestrel]

yeah

read wrong

[past kestrel]

how do you fix this

[whole wind]

Reprinting it

[past kestrel]

what if it just happens again

[whole wind]

Nah but fr what happened with that? Is that the print bed grid sticking to the bottom of the print?

[past kestrel]

yes

[whole wind]

Yikes

[past kestrel]

i mean that was the best bed adhesion ive ever had so💀

[whole wind]

What printer you using?

[errant fern]

I haven't seen this on my Sovol

That's some hella strong adhesion lmao

[whole wind]

Did you use glue for it?

[past kestrel]

no

which is crazy

my nozzle mightve been too low but i mean the print came out flawless so

[whole wind]

Possibly but the bottom of the print looks fine too albeit with the grid stuck to it

[past kestrel]

polymaker petg is just sticky af i guess

[whole wind]

I guess lol

well as usual I'm gonna make the suggestion that you try getting a print bed made of G10 (garolite)

its the same stuff circuit boards are made of and it's amazing for printing

Gives a nice almost glass like surface, sticks really well when printing and parts will just pop off with a gentle breeze after it cools down

no extra adhesion required

The only issue is you'll need to cut the G10 to fit your print bed size/shape

but other than that it's awesome

[past kestrel]

ill look into it cause my printer has been really good about adhesion so i dont see a reason not to switch to something thatll give me better surfaces

[errant fern]

Does it work with inductive sensors

[vast hill]

You always want to use some kind of release agent with PETG on a smooth surface

[whole wind]

Yes if there is a metal plate underneath (which most printers will have anyway) I haven't had any issues with inductive sensors. Just need to make sure you get the right thickness of G10. I think mine was 1.5 mm thick

This video is what got me into using it

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g0PK4oXbJT8&ab_channel=Maker'sMuse

Even says it works with petg

[vast hill]

Personally I did not like G10, I found it too sensitive to the plate being touched, but I also prefer to use Vision Miner Nano Adhesive where you can touch the plate as much as you want and it still sticks like 🔥🤣

But it does work

[whole wind]

Fair enough, to each their own.

[vast hill]

You can get G10 plates made by light-year in a lot of different sizes these days, fwiw

[whole wind]

thats true, it's getting more available now

[vast hill]

Well, they sell them already attached to magnetic plates in some sizes too, which was nice when I was trying it out

[whole wind]

ooh thats nice

[errant fern]

If G10 is so graet where is g11

[heady tundra]

g17

[past kestrel]

it was textured that counts?

i never had strong build plate adhesion till now so i didnt know about that

[vast hill]

Textured it can depend on the plate material. Was it PEI or something else?

[umbral edge]

@past kestrel petg tends to bond to weird things, it likely bonded chemically to the bed

It can also bond chemically to borosilicate glass

(what glass beds are)

Which is why it's so important to put something on the glass (clean it then hairspray is fucking amazing)

Also @whole wind fixed the lifting issues I had
It is mostly an issue of adhesion to the support
Cuz it doesn't have any pretty much
There is just enough upwards pull to make it rip off the supports with that intense overhang
So I just added a solid cylinder and it works well

[whole wind]

Nice!

[past kestrel]

definitely something chemical cause i just printed the same gcode with esun petg and had minimal problems

theres still paint on it but im not having to scrape off little bits of filament

fine with it for now

[umbral edge]

@past kestrel also petg doesn't need to be squished against the bed like pla
It should be just under the layer height above the plate

[vast hill]

I'm...not sure who told you that, but that's not correct...it still needs to be squished, it just behaves differently so it needs a different z-offset. You still want to give it a good first layer squish just like any other material.

[umbral edge]

I read it online and then tested it myself and it was true
Setting the offset to just under the layer height squishes it a good bit still
I never said it didn't need to be squished at all, I said it doesn't need to be squished the same way you would pla

@vast hill

[vast hill]

I misunderstood what you meant then, sorry 😁

[woeful parcel]

I'm excited, managed to get a really small gap when testing my printer for some dovetails I'm using on an upcoming part

[woven junco]

3D Print all the things!

Hi my name is Peter and I am a 3D Printer addict 😅 but no seriously I have 10 printers and another one that I need to build lol.

[umbral edge]

Yall

Have y'all seen the new elegoo printer

Elegoo centauri/centauri carbon

[umbral edge]

It's just a p1/p1s

Like

The same

But 200/300$

Like

What

I'm getting this

[whole wind]

Dayyym

Although I'm a little dissapointed there's no multi fillament option like the a1 with it's AMS system

[umbral edge]

later this year

[whole wind]

ooh nice

[umbral edge]

its literally like

100% the same

just a lil unstable cuz

yknow

just came out

camera feed cant hold a stream well

lighting is bad, easily fixed with led strips

tinted glass doesnt help with that

granted its not out yet

it still seems goated from the reviews

unpaid, but free hardware

also some wierd slicer stuff but easily fixed

it has a carbon filter n shit

and is quiet asf

input shaping

auto levelling

[whole wind]

Gotcha

[umbral edge]

immma wait for the fully honest reviews

unpaid

[whole wind]

Thats fair

[umbral edge]

and non beta

buuuuuut

like

it seems like my next box

it 100% looks like a ripoff of the p1s lol

https://youtu.be/w5H-CUkS4T4?t=380

it rips

this is the most negative review ive seen so far

good visibility which is always appreciated for me lol

thats not too good, very tight there

brittle filaments are probs not an option here

they really should have made this come in at a diff angle

[whole wind]

eeeeeeh

[heady tundra]

i think its fine as long as you store your filament properly long term

which you should be doing regardless of any printer you have

[whole wind]

eeeeeh maybe but that still feels like a lot of stress to put on it

[umbral edge]

that is a loot of stress

[heady tundra]

its fineeeeee

[umbral edge]

depending on the filament that is a large increase in chance of break

[heady tundra]

it problems wouldve arised from i feel like they wouldve fixed it immediately

[umbral edge]

this is a cheap and complex printer

they likely found out later in production and to keep costs down didnt fix

[heady tundra]

only one way to find out

[umbral edge]

yeah i still likely will get one

i might just make a box for the top lol

[heady tundra]

its not that bad 😭

[umbral edge]

if the issue arises*

cuz its fixable

[heady tundra]

fair

[umbral edge]

other issues is it auto levels only on cold bed

so if you are doing 100c beds

its not gonna be all that level

[heady tundra]

oh weird

i dont like that

at all

[umbral edge]

im sure its just a gcode fix

[heady tundra]

well

z offset?

yea

[umbral edge]

order of operations for startup

not hard

same with the other issue with its gcode that it starts print before bed is fully heated

which is like 10 second fix

but this was all on the beta firmware in my eyes

it still is a sick printer

also has a good runout sensor

web interface

wireless uploads n shit

good stuff

for 300$?

like

ok yeah

absolutely

[heady tundra]

whats the build area?

[umbral edge]

256^3

Just look at p1s specs

And copy paste

[heady tundra]

hm

[heady tundra]

too lazy more fun to bother people

[umbral edge]

I'm gonna dox u

[umbral edge]

working on a dumb mtg health counter

its my first thing that uses magnets

working prototype is already done and it looks really good:3

the rings are built with 1x2mm circle magnets

and this geared shape for lower friction

[umbral edge]

update

scope? creeped

[heady tundra]

@vernal ginkgo here

[umbral edge]

this looks neat midway thru

[umbral edge]

reference

redraw

final

[umbral edge]

I got a printing tent

:3

[fickle thorn]

Nice

[umbral edge]

With stock parts

Getting reliable petg prints on a e3 pro

I'm a god

I would count glass bed and putting it in a box as stock

Cuz I haven't actually modded it

Other than klipper and a cr touch

So functionally to the printer running, nothing changed

:3333

Hair spray is the most important thing easily

[ivory magnet]

Holy shit, that centauri carbon looks great

[vernal ginkgo]

Indeed.

[umbral edge]

yeah i am gonna liiikely get one

also the value of the fbt bundle is nice

+40$

[vernal ginkgo]

When I made my preorder the fbt bundle was out of stock

I might try to cancel it and re order the bundle

[whole wind]

https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/999055714842583100/1082140340112343050/ezgif-3-af1195d740_1.gif

[umbral edge]

Their ams system combined with a even bigger knockoff Bambu printer

I think it's obvious

Also the scope keeps creeping with this project

It's so bad

This thing is all but done, designed fully just reprinting parts for better quality

Made little alignment jigs to glue it all together and everything

Works flawlessly

But I wanted to make a lil box for it

And now I'm designing a whole ass sheikah chest