#Temperature Not Responding and Bed Temp Negative
49 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I'm on my phone & don't feel like dealing with your zip file, but negative temps generally mean you don't have the thermistor correctly plugged in
Can either literally mean you plugged it into the wrong port, or that the wrong pin has been chosen in the config. Same end result
I'm thinking it may be the pin assign. Thank you
I should also meantion, it is the thermistor temp that isn't changing and not the bed temp. It does this thing where it times out. I think the sensor itself might not be communicating properly but I am unsure.
It's an analog sensor
If you're getting an initial read off it, then the sensor is fine
The timeout is (Assuming its the message I think it is) more about " we should be seeing heat by now, and we aren't, so something is badly wrong. Shutting down for safety"
And then it doesn't actually shut down and continues to rise in temp
To the target
I swapped the pins for the bed and it is the right temp now!
I still get this but here is the relevant portion of the config
I have it set super long and a low threshold and it still throws the code
What the hell is that verify_heater section you have?
Get rid of that
There is no reason to be messing with that: solve the problem, don't try to bypass the safety system
I have all the pins connected to the umbilical board correctly (I'm pretty sure). I removed the verify heater section and it (obviously) still threw the code. I'm not sure if the klipper log would help but here it is in case.
And also moonraker
Well, I don't have time to dig through the heater wiring right now, but at a quick glance, I can tell you it's not heating at all
So that would suggest either a wiring issue, or an incorrect heater pin
I do have a bit of a delay in the time it takes the heat to travel from the heater to the thermister, but that should at least go up a little bit. However, it does change temperature if I've got the bypass on. I wonder if I set the threshold lower or implement a delay for it to start checking if that would work.
I might have actually got it working. By reinstating the verification, then letting it crash once and restarting, it seems to not throw any more errors. It's been going up to temp. Will update if it crashes.
My man, that is obscenely slow for a hotend to heat
Think about it. That's what, a degree every 10 seconds?
So to reach 200c is going to take almost half an hour?
Stop deluding your self that that is in any way functioning properly, and figure out why your hotend is barely pretending to heat
I ...what am I even looking at here ?
It took like 5 minutes
So why is there such a lag? Your video certainly doesn't show it heating at a speed that would match that, so obviously something changes
I suspect your photo may somewhat answer that somehow. But....I'm dumb. I have actually no idea what I'm looking at there
I am modifying the voron and building what is known as a MEWron. It is designed to 3d print filament at a super small diameter by stabilizing it with high voltage. On the left is the hot end (essentialy what heats the ceramic block) and on the right is the thermistor
Thank you for all of your input btw
Well that's a fascinating rabbit hold for me to dissappear down at some point
Instead of filament, I am using a pnuematic based syringe system and melting the filament inside of the syringe
Now, full confession, I haven't had time to process that technology yet
It should be noted that it is very dangerous to work with high voltage systems and you also need an external pressure controller (which I'm currently also attempting to hook up (a clippard pressure controller))
But if there's excess thermal lag between heater and thermistor, I feel like that's gonna make it hard to manage the temperature properly
It definitely seems a bit slow. My part fan also doesn't want to turn on when it should be cooling. So that is another issue I have to fix.
I'm considering turning up the voltage on the heater but I don't want to risk frying anything.
Do you have access to thermal imaging or something that you can use to determine if there's really a huge thermal gradient across the hotend?
Like comparing the heater side to the thermistor side.
I have a laser thermometer but I'm not sure if that would be precise enough. It is definitely a large gap between the hotend and the thermistor and that ceramic is not the most conductive thing in the world.
I'm going to go home and grab the laser thermometer (maybe even a grill thermometer would work in this case) and then bring it back in the morning along with a railjack to power the arduino (for the pressure controller)