LDO Trident 300 Kit with A4T

[torpid grove]

So apparently I should have way better input shaper. My current setup is basically the LDO Trident 300 Kit with an A4T, BFI, Titanium Extrusion Backers on Y and Umbilical, but Y still has a cable chain, have to move my endstops first. Recommended shaper is MZV on both with about 10k accel on X and 4k on Y. I would guess that Y has way less due to the cable chain but i am not sure.

Things I have checked: ```- toolhead screws tight

• gantry screws tight
• frame joints tight
• belts both at about 1.9 on PFMakes GT2 Belt Tensioner
• Motor mounts are tight
• linear rails tight, except for a single screw on the right Y rail, the t nut bar there has lost thread so it spins kinda freely. it is the furthest back screw```

[meager turret]

can you install shaketune and autotune please

and take a look at https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1308097646786777108 for the other information required

[buoyant raptor]

Hello, right after installing Shaketune, please disable sweeping.
Also, if you’re using your phone to tension the belts, I recommend switching to a mod like this:
https://github.com/Diyshift/3D-Printer/tree/main/GT2 Belt Tension Meter
I didn’t get good results using a phone.
Here are a few tips I can give you but, the guys (spitzbirne, Reth) are the best.

[meager turret]

All good advice, except for that Reth guy, his voice is to commanding

[torpid grove]

0 infill and 0 top layers on the voron cube?

input shaper with those settings from the how to post thread

my printer.cfg

belts thingy with shaketune

[viral lion]

Exactly as described in the How to post here 😉

[viral lion]

Do them with shaketune please

[viral lion]

Have a close look at the attached image and adjust your XY joints accordingly please

[torpid grove]

just adjusted the screws to that Input shaper did drop about 1k accel now

cube is on the way

the mods: ```- A4T on DWTas CNC Carriage with Dragon Ace Volcano, Fystec H36

• BFI
• Titanium Extrusion Backers on Y
• Annex style clips for side panels, rear is a bit loose due to wrong clips
• Top panel taped on (wanted to do top hat, but got distracted)

[viral lion]

Did u enter the fresh input_shaper values into your config BEFORE printing?

[torpid grove]

i currently dont have input shaper enabled i think

[viral lion]

Then cancel the print

[torpid grove]

i couldnt start because smh klipper lost connection to mcu and now it cant connect to my h36

nvm lol just booted up again

[viral lion]

input_shaper must have 6 values

Shaper x
Freq x
Damping x

Shaper y
Freq y
Damping y

Use https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#input_shaper to set the correct values

[torpid grove]

got it, thanks

[viral lion]

Use MZV for X and Y

Outer wall accel 4050

[torpid grove]

okay

[torpid grove]

something else is wrong, it might take a bit to fix

[viral lion]

Its been 19 days. Any update for us? Do u want us to mark this as SOLVED?

[torpid grove]

I am so sorry, I initially thought it was going to be a quick-ish fix, turns out it wasn't. I got my replacement THB installed yesterday and am just starting up the Voron Cube. Should I tune the printer first or does that not matter here?

Or rather the new toolhead /hotend since I didnt get to do much with it yet

[viral lion]

Cube first will be fine

We will need shaketune graphs afterwards 👍

And if we didnt see the new toolhead here yet, also updated picture of the front of the printer

[torpid grove]

Same toolhead, just a different THB 🙂

[torpid grove]

Do you prefer the carto adxl or THB adxl?

[viral lion]

Toolhead

[torpid grove]

I think the extruder gear is either tightened too much or not enough, but thats the cube

[viral lion]

Cube looks perfect

0 ringing

[torpid grove]

It ran at only 4k accel though tbf

my slicer settings

(in case the config is better)

[viral lion]

Thats your limit 😉

[torpid grove]

well I truly hopy it isnt xd

is there anything else you need that I forgot?

[viral lion]

It is 😉
U can try the limit Input shaper suggests but thats it Usually

[viral lion]

No

[torpid grove]

but then the printer wont disassemble itself from all the speed

https://tenor.com/view/lave-lingue-wash-machine-machine-a-laver-destroying-gif-10826328646164153001

[viral lion]

welcome to owning a big printer 😉

[torpid grove]

no but on a serious note, 4k on Y is not enough for a 300 trident is it? xd

[viral lion]

it is

[torpid grove]

ah okay, i will mark it as solved then right?

[viral lion]

i just noticed u have Y chain installed, why? remove it

[torpid grove]

oh I think the pictures are not completely up to date, I removed that one already

I had it before because I didnt have the X endstop on the toolhead yet, but I moved it, other than that there should be everything up to date though

[viral lion]

well.... if u change things, u need to tell and show us

how should we know?

[torpid grove]

I forgot xd its been a while, sorry. I will make new pics wait a second

the toolhead was printed on a different printer, which obviously has some ringing issues xd

[viral lion]

uff. whats going on there?

[torpid grove]

uhm xd so the cable going behind the extrusion is the x endstop, the other ones were just a bit too long mostly and I didnt want to cut them down too much because I didnt want to have no more wire left if I have to change things

[viral lion]

clean it up. also the motor crimps are not properly seated.
have a look at the pictures/wiring of @desert moat - thats how to do it 😉

[viral lion]

one picture of the front please, so the whole printer, including exhaust cover, is visible with good lighting and camera focus

[torpid grove]

Does this work?

[torpid grove]

Okay I'll try my best

[viral lion]

yup. do u print without deck panel?

[torpid grove]

I have it taped on currently

I only have half my top hat printed so far

[viral lion]

let me rephrase:
in which state of the printer to u print most of the time or will print? top panel installed or not

[torpid grove]

top panel installed

[viral lion]

ok so u have to install and measure with it

plus

remove the wire from the umbilical

install galvanic arm

route umbilical out the exhaust cover

[torpid grove]

measurement was made with, I just removed it so i can take pictures from the top

[viral lion]

https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/umbilical_passthrough

there is also a PUG version on printables

[torpid grove]

https://www.printables.com/model/978123-voron-bowden-ptfe-tube-guide-arm-and-canbus-cable something like this?

[viral lion]

exactly this

short for trident

[viral lion]

https://youtu.be/IzYNO515-M0?si=mNsBlNDolA3if2wo

[torpid grove]

okay I will print that stuff and install it tomorrow

[viral lion]

sounds good, do not forget to remove the steel wire/gitar wire, whatever, from the umbilical.
and fresh pictures 😉

[torpid grove]

yes, will do 🙂

[torpid grove]

do you by any chance know one where I can fit the molex connector through? I can only find ones that take basically just the cable

or the xt30

[viral lion]

i dont understand, what specifically do u mean?

[torpid grove]

my umbilical cable has a molex micro fit 6 pin on one side and a xt30+2 on the other side, since its the nitehawk cable. and the exhaust cover hole seems to be way too small on all models i found

so I would have to remove and recrimp one side I think with those

[torpid grove]

this would be better if it was two parts so I can put it over the cable and dont have to remove one connector

[viral lion]

thats why i said: #1404953843980304435 message

[torpid grove]

oh okay sorry, I guess I somehow missed it

[torpid grove]

is it meant to hold the bowden and umbilical or just bowden/umbilical? because the front of the arm is just barely reaching the end of the pug right now

like if I put the ptfe tube through the arm , I have to bend it a lot to reach the umbilical

[torpid grove]

yes its not attached yet

[meager turret]

This is how I do it

[torpid grove]

ah okay so pug on the outside

[meager turret]

Because of the issue you raised

[viral lion]

Pug can stay

But use a different exhaust Cover

https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/tree/main/umbilical_passthrough

On printables is the PUG version

Oh i linked u that already….

#1404953843980304435 message

[meager turret]

where is the pug bersion of whopping's? Because this version you posted does not secure the umbilical as well

[torpid grove]

I only found the one I have installed right now, this one:https://www.printables.com/model/1162435-voron-exhaust-cover-with-pug-and-ptfe-passthrough/files

[viral lion]

Thats not the correct one

[torpid grove]

Now*

Looks like this kow

[viral lion]

Its a remix of the github version

And not a completely different Cover

[meager turret]

https://www.printables.com/model/972543-umbilical-rear-passthrough-for-pug

or just make the pug go out the rear

[torpid grove]

oh okay, that didnt show up since i looked for "pug exhaust voron" xd

I will just boot it up now with this, run a shaper calibration and then print the other one

[meager turret]

if you are using the non-bearing version of galvanic you can flip the mount so the bowden holder sits lower

or try a different mount, that way the bowden is more inline

[torpid grove]

the PUG on the THB collides with the arm if I flip it

[torpid grove]

sorry i meant the usb connector with the bowden

so it going up a fair bit is kinda making space for the connector

[meager turret]

this one sits lower

[viral lion]

cmon man, i didnt even press enter
if u are unsure or want to double check, just ask.

du kannst auch auf deutsch fragen, juckt keinen.

[meager turret]

also the galvanic mount I posted allows you to use an m5 lock nut to hold it in place

[torpid grove]

sorry, ich hatte die ganze zeit nach voron exhaust pug gesucht, die keywords waren die falschen, dachte dann, dass eben einfach so etwas gemeint war

also hab das wirklich nicht gefunden und ging einfach davon aus, dass es das war

[viral lion]

"denken", "glauben" etc. basiert alles auf glück.
frag und du bekommst die antwort, dann musst du kein glückspiel betreiben 😉

[torpid grove]

how do I make clearance for the Xt30 usb connector on the Nitehawk though?

[torpid grove]

glücksspiel is ne coole sache haha spaß, nächstes mal frag ich, wollte nur nicht zu viel nerven

with the current arm and exhaust

[torpid grove]

das passt nicht, der Abstand zwischen dem PC Panel und dem Exhaust teil ist vieel zu groß bei dem

[viral lion]

because u are missing foam 🙂

[torpid grove]

on the PC panel?

theres 1mm foam on there

[viral lion]

yes. put 3mm between exhaustcover and panel

[torpid grove]

ah okay, i hope i have enough

[torpid grove]

3mm on both sides? applied 3mm to the panel now and its still not enough

[viral lion]

like u have it.

install it. it will be fine

[torpid grove]

I tried that but that left a huge gap, like when I screwed on the front part, the panel bent outwards to seal. so I now have 3mm foam on both sides and it seals well now

Looks like this now

[viral lion]

your backpanel sits too low

thats why the front plate doesnt press on the foam.

[torpid grove]

Its flush with the extrusion slot on top and bottom

is it possible that I just have a bigger cutout on that panel smh? because all the other exhausts I tried barely fit at the bottom

thats the input shaper graph with that exhaust now as is

[torpid grove]

from the CAD file I have 2.5mm more between extrusion and the end of the exhaust gap, but theres a lot more thats missing

[torpid grove]

I have modified the front plate and used the remixed backplate now for the exhaust, fits a lot better now and results are also a bit better

I found the spool holder to vibrate quite a lot so I demounted it for the measurements and I think the back oanel isnt on tight enough as thats quite loud when measuring resonances