Help first powering up formbot kit

[potent cove]

Hello, I am really not sure about the motor wiring because the formbot kit is provided with a v2 and the doc we find a v1 manta. The wiring on the Voron doc is still different. Which one should I follow?

[fierce moth]

The voron one.

Either wiring scheme is probably valid, but formbot doesn't provide a config file that matches theirs, whereas voron does

[potent cove]

okay, do you have 2 3 things to tell me before turning on the power? things to check?

[mint crane]

follow through this: https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/

[potent cove]

ok good im start firmware flasing and firt power on

I have 2 sd cards. the first one is 32gb for the cb1 I think. the other 128mb I don’t know where it goes

[mint crane]

that's for one method of flashing your mainboard

there are two card slots on the manta

[potent cove]

one for stm other for cb1 ?

[mint crane]

rough locations indicated by text

[high niche]

oof, those double stacked wire terminals...

[potent cove]

not very estetique but I noticed that the tightening is good

[high niche]

Regardless of how well tightened they are, doing that often puts a bunch of weird sideways load on the crimp terminals making them sometimes pop out or break.

[mint crane]

strictly speaking, if you're running 24v, you don't need the motor power wires

you would set the motor power jumpers to the right (VBB) position then the motors get their power from the "POWER" terminals

[potent cove]

it will not stay like that. I have what I need at work. for now I will just configure the firmware

[potent cove]

ok I will look at it a little later!! thank you. do you have a complete doc for the can? no info on voron. Rp2040 btt

[mint crane]

this is the best guide for flashing to follow: https://canbus.esoterical.online/Getting_Started.html

[potent cove]

Ok it’s the one I found thank you!!! I also saw an info in my kit, it is planned to use the CAN of my btt. Many add an additional card. What is your opinion?

your help is really very valuable. thank you

[mint crane]

use the manta as a CAN bridge, it will be fine and is more than capable

i use the manta as my CAN bridge in my trident and it works well

[potent cove]

I will try to manage as much as possible on my own. I come back when I don’t find information or when I have a big doubt that can cause damage. You must not abuse your time.

[mint crane]

that's fine, will watch out for messages

[potent cove]

Klipper is up to date. small pool break, we’ll see tonight for the can network.

[potent cove]

Hi, I am in the process of installing the CAN. So far no issues, everything went well. But there, he asks me to go into the klipper folder. he tells me that it doesn’t exist

https://canbus.esoterical.online/mainboard_flashing.html
https://github.com/FORMBOT/Voron-2.4/tree/main/Firmware Flashing

[fierce moth]

You shouldn't be root

You should be in as your normal user

[subtle creek]

I helped in VC and expained to use the biqu user

[potent cove]

thank you for your response !!!

[potent cove]

im cleanning my config

[potent cove]

Hello guy. its my first print i have error. the temp hotend its not load

[fierce moth]

Where do you set hotend temp in your macro there?

I mean, I see where you define a variable for it, but then I don't see any evidence of you actually using that variable anywhere

[potent cove]

yes precisely he does not use it

its fixed

[fierce moth]

For your reading:
https://github.com/jontek2/A-better-print_start-macro/blob/main/README.md

[potent cove]

thanks !!! you have end print ?

[fierce moth]

Eh. I think the stock one is mostly fine there

Unless you're looking for something specific

[potent cove]

It doesn't say what I have to put in my silcer to use its print start.

[fierce moth]

Jontek doesnt?

I disagree

[mint crane]

near the top

[fierce moth]

You have to expand the section that's relevrnt

[potent cove]

was just getting stuck by the wait for 5min so. my first print is in progress

my speed its
200ext
240 int

300 infill

voron cube 21m

[mint crane]

its best to keep things conservative whilst you are getting to know the printer

(which those values are)

[potent cove]

on the other hand, I have nothing to control the tension of the belts. I did with the frequency but they don’t seem at all taut

it its speed in my slicer

[mint crane]

are you aware of the PFmakes tension tool

[potent cove]

i have same in my ender 3

[mint crane]

https://github.com/Diyshift/3D-Printer/tree/main/GT2 Belt Tension Meter

[potent cove]

i my contry dont have part

[potent cove]

there are no piano strings that have the same characteristics

[mint crane]

il y a des vendeurs européens qui ont un kit pour vous

[potent cove]

electronic in aliexpress its good ? 10€

[mint crane]

the electronic tension meters are only useful to compare belts, they are not calibrated

it is possible to calibrate them but it is difficult

[potent cove]

ok

[mint crane]

you should be very happy with that as a first cube 🙂

time to work through ellis' guide: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_before_we_begin.html

[potent cove]

30.05mm
30.02mm
and z 30.10mm
circle 16.03mm

[mint crane]

very reasonable

[potent cove]

im look tomowrow

[subtle creek]

You can do the alternate calibration with some leftover belt and a weight.

[potent cove]

I can’t get anything better*

[mint crane]

would suggest posting in #1308016330326413393 for help with this

[potent cove]

ticket open in #1308016330326413393 for shake and tune