#Voron 2.4r2 idler for B belt in b joint faint cracking noises after gantry requare

15 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

raven kestrel
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Hi, let me start off with: no I am not in my underwear in the video, these are shorts 😂

I need a sanity check: after I got my serial number on my first voron, I recided to square the gantry properly, because I didnt watch out for that before and kinda just threw it on. I squared it for way too long, it was very frustrating (and late night). After putting everything together again, I noticed a sort of cracking sound during certain moves. I isolated it to either of the two idlers for the b belt in the b joint in the back left. It happens when you pull on the belt from the back left to the back right so the toolhead moves in negative x and negative y direction (back right to front left) once per revolution. There no binding and it prints just fine. I dont see the belt chafing any spot anywhere.

I think I made the mistake of also loosening the idlers screws during resquaring... leading to misalignment of the two halves of the joint and therefore the axis of the M5 the idlers are rotating around. I tried loosening everything that could exert force on it and tightening the idler M5s first in the hopes that would allow them to find their natural resting position, but as soon as the belt is tightened (with everything else tightened and no sound up until that point), the sound comes back, albeit quieter than before at least.

I realize this could probably be fixed with taking out and apart the gantry, redoing the B joint off the rails and everything else, like in the manual, but I have sort of a deadline coming up tomorrow, where in need to be able to print ABS, which no other printer can do.

Now the question is: is this sound just cosmetic/nuisance or sign of an issue that might cause accelerated wear on the machine? Do I have to adress it now? I can live with a few print artifacts and am honestly a bit burned out on the build right now. I just wanna print some ABS 🥹

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I should add: its not the stepper, it was fine when I took it out and the idlers seem to be spinning compeltely freely , when theres not pressure on them. The issue didnt exist before resquaring.

pulsar stone
raven kestrel
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Hi, thank You for the answer, that is a kind offer. But by deadline I dont mean anything serious or contractually obligating, but rather its gonna be 35C/95F where I live on sunday and I promised my girlfriend that Id get the AC running by then, for which I need to print an ABS part haha

raven kestrel
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update: redid the gantry squaring fully and think i got a good result. the clicking is still there, but i dont see any vibrations due to it in the print and considering i put on the panels, i couldnt hear it anyway. but now that im finally printing abs at a high chamber temperature, the clicking became even louder, which is concerning.

deep kayak
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Could be something like an idler with a slightly bad bearing, that makes some noise under load but still turns fine. If the printer behaves well and you can live with it, I'd just leave it be. If it gets worse, that should make it easier to pinpoint where it's coming from.

pulsar stone
raven kestrel
# deep kayak Could be something like an idler with a slightly bad bearing, that makes some no...

yeah, I left it for now out of necessity and I think the issue mightve went away on its own. What I wanted to try is: I got some half threaded screws to replace the ones holding the idlers, my reasoning being that the sound could be due to slipping or otherwise contact of some sorts between the idlers and the threads of the screw, if everything isnt quite aligned properly and rubs at a minimal angle against each other

raven kestrel
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Can You tell whether Im square from my YX joints? 😄

pulsar stone
deep kayak
# raven kestrel yeah, I left it for now out of necessity and I think the issue mightve went away...

While the "proper thing" would be to have screws that are unthreaded for the portion they contact the idler bearings, sourcing such screws would be quite a hassle (there are some that would need rather odd dimensions, you'd probably have to get a longer one and cut it down). For the loads involved here, having the idlers riding on a threaded screw is just fine, and the idler bearings would basically have to be completely shot for the inner race to spin on the screw threads. There are some washers that could be important to prevent the idlers rubbing where they shouldn't though.

raven kestrel
# deep kayak While the "proper thing" would be to have screws that are unthreaded for the por...

I made some of the screws! The ones holding the idlers in the A and B assemblies should ideally be (goin from memory here) M5x30 with 25mm of no thread and 5mm thread at the end. These You cant really buy, as standard metric partially threaded screws for M5 always have 22mm of thread at the end. so I grabbed a M5x50 one, hand-sawed off 17mm at the end and wanted to use 3mm worth of washers (or just a printed spacer) to get it to the correct overall length. Wouldve dropped those in, next time I took off the panels and had some time.

narrow spruce