#Road to Voron

42 messages ยท Page 1 of 1 (latest)

keen kestrel
#

Hi all, I currently in the early stages of building a decent printer.
I got a free printer about a month ago that i'm messing about with, tinkering away to get it to print decent ABS.

keen kestrel
#

My friend also gave me a rough old prusa mk I style clone. I've taken some bits from it, mainly screw and bolts but it has a better power supply and an induction probe.
Current spec:
Monoprice Maker select V2.1 (Wanhoa I3 duplicator clone)
Usual Z brace mod, with custom rear brace.
Larger bearings on y carriage. 10 euro
Solid mounted stock y carriage.
Glass 'middle bed' - 20 euro
Steel/PEI magnetic build surface. 20 Euro
All metal Hotend. 35 euro
Extruder cold end fan shroud.
MOSFET swiched heater bed - 10 euro
Mkii power supply 12v 20amp.
Chopped down Repetier firmware "1.0" on the stock Melzi. (I had Klipper on it initially but it kept loosing connection.10 -15 different solutions didn't work. Marlin scrambled the LCD)
Have an SKR E3 mini coming next week. 35 euro
Hopefully can make the induction probe work with it, and it improves my QOL ๐Ÿ™‚

Hoping not to put any more money into it and save for the VORON from here...!!! ๐Ÿ™‚ 130 quid down as it is!
The printer came 2 very old rolls of PLA. They were enough to get the trouble shooting ball rolling.

Leveling the taco bed is the biggest issue with it. 6 hours problem solving over 2 days last week has it ok-ish.

#

4mm induction probe.

#

Old mk I shitter. Not worth saving ๐Ÿ™‚

#

ABS parts are coming out ok now. These Z rods braces will hopefully steady the layers and corners. Currently printing a temp tower to try and sort out bridging issues. A general temperature and flow calibration. I've been running it a touch high.

#

Sunlu recommends 230-250C with a fan. I'm running no fan and an apparent 240C ๐Ÿ™‚

cobalt cypress
#

Welcome and good luck on the build!

keen kestrel
#

Thanks @cobalt cypress I'm hoping what I've learned getting this thing to function will help me build a decent Voron.

#

The prints look pretty decent now, although there always seems to be one corner that doesn't work out right.

keen kestrel
#

Mini E3 has finally arrived. Hopefully getting it going is straightforward.

#

The are mini. Only 100x70.

#

I don't think this was a truly necessary step on the road, but once you get a taste for kilpper, especially with the printer living outside in the shed, it's hard to go back to sd cards, LCD and repetier.

#

Also it could be repurposed to build a V0 style printer in future, and will hopefully make better prints with this machine. Money well spent.. we will see ๐Ÿ™‚

keen kestrel
#

Got this wired up this evening and running klipper. Plug and play-ish which was nice. Only needed to make up 2 connectors and switch pins for a fan. Or so I thought.

#

The extruder motor pulses the filament in and out rapidly by a mm or 2. Maybe a loose crimp on the pins ar a different order on that one. Any one seen that before!?

keen kestrel
#

The green connector above is for the extuder motor in the melzi board. I unscrewed them one at a time, crimped and connected them into the jst in the same order. Even if they were backwards the motor should run normally just the wrong way?

keen kestrel
#

Back to plug and play. Wires had broken on one of the jst crimps, where it exits the insultion. Easy fix!

keen kestrel
#

All is up and running the past week without any issues. I've just been printing some boring PETG bracket for the gutters but the loosing connection to MCU is thankfully gone with the Melzi.

#

How boring? This much

#

The roll of PETg (sunlu) stated to print at 230. I was getting alot of nozzle ooze and stringing so am currently printing test bridges. I'm thinking my thermistor reads about 5-10% lower than actual.

#

Need to push on now and get an enclosure fitted. We've had out summer here it seems so no chnace of printing decent ABS parts in a sub 15C shed.

#

Which Voron. Pretty much 99% set on a 2.4 250 now. It will fit nicely into the space the 'slinger is sitting atm and will fit into the same wip enclosure. Researching doom cubes and other 4040 style printers I was put off by the temp differential across the alu extrusions, titanium backers etc. An agricultural box I feel will be way cheaper, essentially free made from stuff I have about the place, and can be quickly removed to get better access to the printer mech. I want to build a 0.2 also, maybe a 180 version. Which order 0.2 and 2.4 will happen I'm not sure yet!

edgy axle
#

If you want to print ABS, you need to ensure the ambient temperature, that is, you need to seal the box.

severe sandal
#

Hey welcome!
Humble beginnings i seeheh
There is a small slicer trick that you can add too that may help you get better abs prints.
Its called Draught Sheild , amd it creates a border around your print to help reduce... well, draughts๐Ÿ˜‹
A large cardboard box works wonders too.
Good luck with your build๐Ÿฅฐ

keen kestrel
#

Things have moved on a bit. Nearly there with printing ASA/ABS to a decent standard.

#

The old slinger is almost finished. Have the bits printed, just need to install a better part cooler.

#

Generally ok with the stock cooler at full chooch but need a bit more air for bridging etc.

#

Have some led mounts made to go in. All these final parts made with black/yellow ASA.

#

Temp tower with 90% fan

#

Reckon chamber temps are about 50c.

#

With the current mods, 240 nozzle, 100c bed and 50 chamber it seems happy enough.

severe sandal
#

absolutely loving the engineered chamber!๐Ÿ˜‹

keen kestrel
keen kestrel
#

A new less bodge probe bracket is ASA has made it pretty reliable.