First Voron - Formbot Voron 2.4 R2 Pro+ 300mm with some minor mods

[twin fog]

I've had an Ender 3 v2 years ago and sold it shortly after, and still have a Bambulab A1 mini.
I wanted a bigger printer and decided to build a Voron.

I ordered a kit from Formbot and the printed parts from PIF. And a good friend (burkfers) built a few Vorons himself recently, and was so kind to provide me with the pins for the pin mod, grease for the rails, an extra thermistor, Kinder chocolate and some guidance.

The kit arrived more than 2 weeks ago, and I already started building it, but since I'm now waiting for some replacement PIF accent parts, after reading about [this](#pif_discussion message), I thought to log my build. Also because the Formbot documentation is a bit lacking.
I've been following this build guide,, which has been of great help mostly, but I deviated on some points.

The mods which are planned for this build:

• Pin mod
• Move the Z chain
• Cartographer instead of TAP
• CM5 instead of CB1
• The Filter instead of Nevermore

The evening the kit arrived I started on building the frame. I moved it to the kitchen to have a flat surface.

I read about The Filter performing better than the Nevermore filter, so I decided to build that.
Also replacing the stock fans Formbot provides with these.
To fit the pogo connector I had to cut away some of the plastic.
And I didn't need to remove the top casing of the fans to fit them.

My care package arrived, so I could continue with the build.
I soaked the carts in isopropyl, wiped the rails, and lubed them following LDO's guide.

I used 2 PCBs as spacers to attach the rails to the frame.

Put on the bottom panel and din rails. And moved the plastic stoppers so the carts wouldn't escape.

Did the Z motors.
Zev-se's guide says:

If you build a 300x300 Formbot turn one of the motors 90 degrees so that the cable is on the same side as the two screws of the bracket, this will be Z1 later

But looking at their electronics photo, I believe this should be Z0 instead.
But that also depends on how you mount all the electronics.

After that I continued with the Z idlers and with the filter wiring.

I prepared the bed, but didn't actually mount it yet. I decided to do this last, so I'll have a better understanding on it's position and the filters position.

I did the A/B idlers and drives with the pin mod.
The A drive with the endstop, but eventually turned the endstop switch around, on of burkfers' advice;

When you mount the end stop, orient the lever so it points at the panel. If you have it pointing into the chamber and you happen to home X while the head was at Ymax, you drive into the lever.

Assembled the gantry and did the belts (they still need to be cut).

At this point I asked my PIF supplier about the red filament, because I wanted to order some to have the exact same color, which happened to be 3DJake's niceABS.

I did some research on that filament, and reading messages like [this](#brexited-🇬🇧 message) kinda worried me. So at that point I [asked](#pif_discussion message) in #pif_discussion about the filament used. The entire PIF process has been great and I believe this was just a misunderstanding about the filament, Jasperkm offered to replace the accent parts, so I'm waiting for those to be printed now.

But since I'll have to disassemble to replace the accent parts I couldn't continue with the gantry and toolhead. So I decided to get started on the electronics;

• I replaced the CB1 with a CM5 from the get-go.
• I used a Wago mount instead of the 3 in 6 out PCB from Formbot, since I read some quality complaints about that.

At this point I found out I rotated the wrong Z motor, and that I actually didn't need to rotate it when mounting the electronics like this. No problem, since I'll disassemble the Z-drives anyway.
I plugged everything in to check if it's working and made a start on the config.

Redid the wiring from the filter using this JST splitter, to prepare for the side fans later on.

While I'm waiting for the accent parts to arrive, I tried getting 2 webcams to work with the Manta M8P + CM5, but without much success.
I ordered 2 OV5648 webcams and want to use one on top and one as gantry cam, but I can't get them both to work at the same time, unless I use a very low resolution and framerate. I tried following this discussion, but the settings mentioned there doesn't seem to work for me.

It seems this is one of the limitations of the Manta M8P + CM5. And it will depend on the webcams used if it works or not.

[thorn edge]

Hi, I'm curious about the quality complaints about the 3 in 6 split board you mention. I installed my Formbot Trident electronics with it and it feels pretty solid, in fact I would trust the robust screw terminals over a Wago any day of the week.

[thick pike]

I opened my 3 in 6 up, and I agree, I have no problems with it. Nice fat traces. Bulk is what is needed, not beauty.

I don’t have a problem with Wagos, they seem to be proven, and they do look nice. But I saw nothing wrong with the 3 in 6. I paid for it, Ima use it.

[twin fog]

There seems to be some safety concerns.
I'm referring to messages like these:
#voron_electronics message
#1311518480826241105 message
#voron_2_discussion message
#1233612612919492728 message

@thorn edge

[golden current]

Woot, almost there 🙂

[twin fog]

Replacement accent parts are on their way.
In the meantime I did the ebay

I mounted the bed and hooked everything up to set up the config.
But during the PID tuning of the hotend it would give me a pid_calibrate interrupted as soon as it reached the temperature.

So I wanted to check the wiring and crimps of the hotend thermistor, but forgot to turn off the power while I disassembled the toolhead. And accidentally touched the wrong pins on the SB2209 with the SB0000 causing some sparks and magic smoke 😭

It seems like both the toolhead boards and my cartographer died, so I ordered new ones.

That will take about 3 weeks before they arrive 😅

[twin fog]

I received the replacement accent parts yesterday. And replaced them right after. Also rotated the Z motor correctly.
I'll do the other panels when I have a working toolhead again.

[twin fog]

Received a tzv6 hotend and added a usb hub

I also received my EBB replacement. But it seems like the RGB pin is dead

Tested the leds on a different microcontroller but when I connect them to the toolhead nothing happens.
I measured 5V on the led pins from the SB0000, but nothing on Din

Very unfortunate

[twin fog]

It looks like I just missed this commit. I updated klipper and reflashed the toolhead and now it works

[twin fog]

I finally got around tuning a bit.
It seems like the build plate is a bit wavy, because when I rotated the build plate, the patterns rotated with it.

First test cube done without tuning anything.
Second one is after tensioning the belts, third cube is after doing PA, EM and input shaper.

I have no clue yet what these graphs tell me. I should probably check all screws and tighten them.