Hexdent

[viral briar]

No it's the popular Ecas fitting that comes with the g2 kits from LDO.

[cedar python]

I guess I should be asking if it's the same motion. Like you just push down on the pneumatic one. I haven't used the ECAS fittings

[viral briar]

Oh yes. Same motion but smaller travel.

I just find it awkward pressing it down with my fat fingers.

[cedar python]

Oh gotcha, makes sense. I know there is a little tool people have made that can be printed to help with those. Or at least I'm pretty sure I have.

[proven schooner]

There is yes.

[proven schooner]

Everything shows I can do 56v with step sticks in my build. M8p v2 uses 63v caps, the btt tmc5160t pro drivers are capable of 56v, and the m8p v2 has a motor power in capable of 60v. I might just go btt 5160t pro drivers and 56v in the end just cause.

I’m thinking in the end I’ll have 2 uhp-350 psus. I think that’ll be a good combo in this thing. Fit in the same space as the lrs-200 I currently have.

[faint axle]

UHP realy are smol PSU's

[proven schooner]

No kidding. Lmao.

[blissful latch]

you could go with 36v + 2240s for a very quiet printer 😅

[proven schooner]

Yea. This isn’t gonna be quiet. 6 steppers on the gantry + CPAP.

[blissful latch]

oh wow yea .. it wont haha :D

[proven schooner]

Plus the Z drives which may also go high voltage. So yea. No point in quiet. Just wear noise canceling headphones instead. 🤣

[proven schooner]

I just removed the tap carriage from the X rail. 3 out of 4 screws were loose. No wonder I had issues with artifacts on my prints. Looking forward to the cnc mount and using loctite to attach it instead. Solved the issue for my micron. Should solve it again on Hexdent.

[cedar python]

The tap 3d printed one? Darn I thought I might go that route if I went tap. XD

[proven schooner]

The printed tap carriage is the one that was mounted. I’m going to be mounting carto cnc carriage instead. Which lets me use loctite without issue. Since screws aren’t going through abs.

[shut sundial]

Is that carriage for SB or does it fit other toolheads?

[proven schooner]

SB but Reaper does show it can fit on the same carriage.

Otherwise I wouldn’t have ordered it. Lol.

[cedar python]

Oh I see what you mean now. Gotcha makes sense. I often forget actual loctite will melt plastics. There is a plastic safe thread lock. Though the name is slipping right now.

[proven schooner]

VC-3

[blissful latch]

Vc 3 assuming that the solvent has fully dried out

[proven schooner]

Hexdent has a carto and cnc mount!

Waiting on a couple things to print then we are finally gonna get it belted.

[fierce forge]

You should try the monolith mod I was working on for that carriage

[proven schooner]

Nah. I have hex drive. Not monolith.

[fierce forge]

https://tenor.com/view/namztaes-sad-window-rain-gif-23232396

[proven schooner]

6 motors > 4 motors. 😆

What is your mod btw?

[fierce forge]

Just allows you to use a cnc carriage on monolith 2wd and awd

[proven schooner]

Ahhh. What’s it look like?

[fierce forge]

Probably bad pics ^

[proven schooner]

And I’m gonna ask the dumb question. What’s the problem with cnc and monolith?

[fierce forge]

Belt path. Where the belt comes in, on standard monolith the belt is 3mm (don’t quote me, it’s been awhile) closer to the front of the printer that stock Voron belts

[proven schooner]

So the cnc mount needs a spacer to bring it forward slightly then?

[fierce forge]

I just modified monolith for the carriage. Had to change the belt path slightly on the xy joints

[proven schooner]

Ahhh. Okay. Makes sense. I guess I shall be seeing if the same needs to happen to hex drive soon.

[fierce forge]

Does it use the same belt path as standard Voron?

[proven schooner]

Not in the slightest. Hex drive has flipped belts and mounts the motors on the outside of the printer. Plus it has y assist motors.

[fierce forge]

Oh boy, do they have cad? I’d look into throwing the cnc carriage in that cad and see what you are running into

[proven schooner]

I do and I could. Or I could just mount it and find out. Lol.

[proven schooner]

@shut sundial Now that’s a deracked gantry. 😆

[shut sundial]

That slides niiiice

[proven schooner]

And now the fun part. Belting it.

[shut sundial]

You gotta stop showing me all of this, I’ll end up ordering that new frame tomorrow lol

[proven schooner]

You should.

[cedar python]

I have a dumb question, What is the reason for the "2WD" variant of the AWD mod?

[proven schooner]

I am concerned…

The belt has to go behind that idler on the bottom right…

[proven schooner]

In case you don’t have 4 motors. Or if you don’t need 4 motors.

[cedar python]

I guess I thought the whole point of the AWD was to have 4 motors. didn't realize there was more to it.

[proven schooner]

Well. Monolith is a AWD or a 2WD mod. So it’s an optional thing to add.

I got the belt through!

[fierce forge]

I was cheap and did the 2wd

For the moment

[proven schooner]

First belt run. Now to remove it and cut the second to the exact same length.

Okay. So. Belts are cut. That used almost half the 10m of belts I bought. 😅

[cedar python]

Ohhh I see. Gotcha. Didn't realize it was a monolith thing. Thought that was something else not related at all. I really need to stop reading about mods at 3 am knee deep in a migraine. (an increasing thing so just not at 3am) 😂

[proven schooner]

You do know it’s not 3am right? I mean anywhere in the US it’s not 3am yet.

[cedar python]

When I read about the 2wd & 4wd mods it was 2 or 3 am I think.

Going to be honest though, it's 2 hours past what I thought it was so for all I know I'm in a time loop.

https://tenor.com/view/spongebob-patrick-brain-dead-drool-bored-gif-7233020

[proven schooner]

@shut sundial @viral briar Well. It’s time for me to go to work but…

It’s finally belted! None of the pulleys are tight right now on purpose and belts are currently tensioned to 2.8 to let them stretch while I work on other things on it.

Just AWD is belted for now.

[viral briar]

Awesome!

[green roost]

I'm a bit late but. I love the green.

[proven schooner]

That is every motor and thermistor currently on the printer. Connected to the boards. Now to add a toolhead and start the fun process of getting it moving again.

[shut sundial]

How much do you charge to wire printers?

[proven schooner]

$1000.

[shut sundial]

Looks like mine are staying rats nests lol

[proven schooner]

I have a toolhead!

[fierce forge]

Green was cool, creeped to much past 60-65+ chamber. Replacing it all with pet-cf and psu now

[proven schooner]

Just a few things on the canbus. Lol

I need to make a y endstop before I can continue with the movement things but I will just say for now. The printer does move! It homes in the X direction but obviously not Y yet.

[proven schooner]

And thus the temp list has begun!

[queen vapor]

The manta octo wombo-combo is amazing, love it

[queen vapor]

All this speed and doing SB?

[misty mauve]

No chamber? :p

[proven schooner]

Second board is a monster8 v2.

[proven schooner]

For now. Waiting on funds to go reaper.

[proven schooner]

Not yet. Out of thermistors. Lol.

[queen vapor]

Ohh it just looked like an octo to me nvm

[queen vapor]

therm^2?

[queen vapor]

Ahhh I see

[proven schooner]

Not out of ports. Just out of thermistors themselves.

[queen vapor]

Oh lol. Time to find the cheapo ones on amazon that are like $5 for 20 of them

[marsh plover]

Are you using drivers with temperature sensors?

[proven schooner]

Not yet. Those motor temps are thermistors attached to the motors themselves.

[marsh plover]

Alright

[misty mauve]

That's the worst lol

I hate running out of stuff

[proven schooner]

It’s alive! (Still missing a y endstop). 500mm/s at 20k just as a test. Lol. The back of the gantry belts are moving up and down and I’m not sure why yet.

[misty mauve]

Shaky table lol

[proven schooner]

I think it’s more the 1lb toolhead. Lol.

[misty mauve]

Lmao

Gonna exceed that IS graphs quickly with that much power

[proven schooner]

I’m actually running the graphs now. I’m curious what they initially look like.

[misty mauve]

I feel like they aren't gonna be to high tbh

Still a heavy toolhead lol

Send them though I wanna see

[proven schooner]

2.8 tension on the belts and AWD. They are gonna pretty good for a 350. Lol.

And this is before I add the Y assist motors.

Well shit. The X looks pretty damn good. 🤣

[misty mauve]

Let's see it

[proven schooner]

Y looks... Not great. But also pretty good too. Lol.

[shut sundial]

X is definitely solid

[misty mauve]

Higher than I expected tbh

But belt tension being that high makes sense

[proven schooner]

And for reference. This is the old.

[proven schooner]

Y might look better if I run with carto adxl instead of sb2209 adxl.

[shut sundial]

Oh yeah always run closest and stiffest relative to nozzle

[misty mauve]

I need to add double sheer to my micron

Ive got the r1 mounts just no bearings lol

[proven schooner]

Worth it. 😆

[misty mauve]

Yea I literally just need to order the bearings

But I think I need to take apart my entire gantry something is making a funny noise

So maybe when I do that

[proven schooner]

Time to actually give my printer a y endstop before I continue. So far I’ve been using the set kinematic position command to home it. Lol. I wanna setup carto and to do that I need endstops.

[misty mauve]

Yea

My belts make a funny squeaky noise coming from one of my motor mounts, some idlers or something

[proven schooner]

When I eventually rerun IS with the carto adxl it’s gonna be a wild difference. The carto is directly mounted to the cnc X carriage. So it’s not gonna budge while running the vibration stuff. Lol.

[misty mauve]

Yes I need to swap to the carto adxl

I'll probably gain some accels on is

[proven schooner]

Oh this poor pg gland. 🤣

I added one more temp. Lol

[misty mauve]

You should see mine

I ran everything though the chain and didn't realize mf3 doesn't fit through

[proven schooner]

That’s a pg13 that is now completely stuffed full of wires. And at some point I’ll need to pass 2 more wires through it too. Lol.

[misty mauve]

Lmao

I took a drill to my pg7 to make it a bit bigger

[proven schooner]

I made the y endstop bumper 1mm too short. 🤦

[misty mauve]

I think I also stripped something so I need to reprint it lol

[cedar python]

Hmm there is an image for this that I probably can't post.

[cedar python]

So many temps. Klipper screen going to look crazy XD

[proven schooner]

Klipper screen doesn’t exist.

[cedar python]

XD Going full headless?

[proven schooner]

For now. Lol

[proven schooner]

@viral briar @shut sundial Oh so close to a first print!

[shut sundial]

What’s the machine accel?

It is shaking like crazy

[proven schooner]

20k for now. I haven’t tested higher. 500mm/s and 30scv.

[shut sundial]

Soooo when Benchy?

[misty mauve]

So fast lmao

[shut sundial]

He’s just getting started lol

[proven schooner]

Probably in the next couple days. Need to calibrate carto and run pid tuning for everything.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/mcqueen-gif-25874246

[proven schooner]

And this is 24v. I’m planning on eventually going with 56v. Lol. Just not with this toolhead. That’s for sure.

[fierce forge]

Didn’t have issues with the cnc carriage?

[misty mauve]

I was thinking of trying to get some CPAP on my micron but I'm afraid it's gonna be to loud lol, I'm outrunning the rapid burner cooling

[proven schooner]

Not any that will be an issue to using the printer. Mainly just the fact the teeth on the cnc carriage on the back of it so the belts go from the to the back which pulls them forward a bit at the carriage. But they don’t rub on anything even when at x max/min.

[proven schooner]

I’ll be putting CPAP on this printer soon. Just waiting for pay day and I’m ordering it.

[misty mauve]

Which one are you getting?

[proven schooner]

The btt turbo kit

[misty mauve]

I haven't looked for a Goliath and CPAP toolhead yet though lol

That's the same one I was thinking of

[fierce forge]

So it the belt goes in from the front and exits out the back

[proven schooner]

I’ll be using reaper. Supports Goliath and CPAP.

[proven schooner]

Yep. That way the belt teeth are being clamped in the teeth on the cnc carriage.

Since this has flipped belts. That’s the only way to do it.

[fierce forge]

That’s exactly how I have monolith. But it does seem like your getting some pretty good charts, might have to look into that mod in the future

[proven schooner]

I’m sitting here wondering why 2 of the 6 stepper thermistors aren’t getting warm. Cause it’s the y assist steppers I haven’t belted or configured yet. 🤣

[proven schooner]

So far. I’m loving this thing. I have taken incredibly great care in ensure everything is right though. Including mechanically syncing the motors. Which impressively. Is incredibly easy.

[fierce forge]

This is what I have gotten to… it was also recorded on beacon adxl

[proven schooner]

Nice! I’ll be doing mine on carto adxl either in a few or tomorrow.

[fierce forge]

I’m still using 2wd

[proven schooner]

What size printer though?

[fierce forge]

350 v2

[proven schooner]

Nice! Keep in mind. Hexdrive won’t work on the v2. Lol. (Not that it’s released yet anyways. 😅)

[fierce forge]

https://tenor.com/view/shit-leslie-jordan-gif-11334450875675318506

[proven schooner]

Motors mounted outside printer. 😆

I’m also using gt3 belts at gt2 belt tensions as well as missing 2 belts atm.

[fierce forge]

Oh yeah, that ain’t gonna work. It’s also gonna be quite heavy for the z motors to lug around

[proven schooner]

I’m gonna be putting my whole build plate on belts soon. I think that’s a bit heavier. 🤣

[fierce forge]

https://tenor.com/view/maybe-just-a-little-teeny-tiny-bit-small-amount-tiny-small-tiny-bit-gif-15139872

[proven schooner]

I have to rerun IS… I forgot I just set my SCV to 30. Lol. Need it set to set 5 for the graphs.

Also I still haven’t run belt shaper…

And these belts are brand new so they haven’t even worn in yet. Lmao.

I am running IS things in all the wrong conditions.

And here is the new graphs with carto adxl. @shut sundial Y may still have 3 peaks but we have more accel now! Triple what it was stock!

[shut sundial]

Oooh, yeah X is quite clean and 75Hz isnt bad at all

Y may have to do with umbilical, but I assume it will get better when you add the Y assist stuff

Could always ping Reth or spitz lol, they know more than me

[proven schooner]

I haven’t printed anything yet. I don’t want them to judge without a print. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Part of it could also be no filament loaded.

[shut sundial]

There is also that

[shut sundial]

You'd get yelled at in their helping tone lol

[proven schooner]

https://tenor.com/view/well-thats-terrifying-professor-marmalade-the-bad-guys-thats-scary-im-scared-gif-25962007

[viral briar]

In my opinion Y graphs from a stealthburner toolhead are just showing the toolhead rotation around the x axis. No matter what gantry it's on . At higher accels toolhead weight balance matters way more than motion componenets.

[shut sundial]

Very amateur of me to forget about how COM affects IS...

[viral briar]

I think you can confirm this by changing belt tension and seeing which peaks on the graph move. If a peak stays the same than that peak is normally related to com. I think.

[viral briar]

Its so complicated too. Even adxl location can hide or exagerate COM issues.

[proven schooner]

Good to know. I do know that part of the peaks on my graphs are simply the brand new belts.

[proven schooner]

Question is now. Y assist or first print? What to do first.

[west heron]

Y assist ofc

[proven schooner]

See. I’m thinking about it. 🤣

[west heron]

Nothing to think about keep building 😂

https://tenor.com/view/nossa-build-erthosoconstrutor-bob-gif-15731569881165918810

[proven schooner]

Except Y assist is already on the printer. I just have to belt it and configure it. Lol.

[west sorrel]

https://tenor.com/view/waiting-caddyshack-smails-gif-5894670

🙂

[proven schooner]

Lmao. I’m trying to decide while I’m at work.

[west heron]

https://tenor.com/view/just-do-it-shia-la-beouf-do-it-gif-4531935

[proven schooner]

Is it sad I can hear that in my head. Like in his voice and everything? 🤣

[proven schooner]

CPAP cooling has been ordered for Hexdent! Whoo!

[proven schooner]

First layer calibration print started!

Using PLA ofc.

[devout heath]

Don’t forget to reinstall your dragon HF for that😉

I might have a spare 1/16” drill bit, extended length 😋

[proven schooner]

I haven’t had issues with dragon hf and pla personally. Just seen the horror stories. Lol.

[devout heath]

I think it was the obnoxious retraction settings, that were in the voron sample presets I blindly used, that did me in.

[proven schooner]

I’m using the defaults in orca for a Voron. 😅. Occasionally I’ll remember to change it to 50mm/s retraction/unretraction and nozzle width for length but it’s not often.

[misty mauve]

What hotend is this build getting?

Another Goliath?

[proven schooner]

For now dragon hf. Eventually Goliath.

[misty mauve]

Ah alright

[proven schooner]

Things have been moving in the background with Hexdent. Gantry is fully belted now with AWD and Y assist. Been playing with input shaper graphs, belt tension, and deciding on a toolhead. Current recommended accels with SB are 20k on X and Y and that’s on a trident 350. Lol.

[marsh plover]

Faster, if you got 6 motors you might as well use them lol

[proven schooner]

Oh it does 40k accel easily. But IS accels is what I’m currently looking at. Plus with SB it’s not exactly light so at 40k accel it’s a little aggressive. It can definitely do more but I’m waiting till I mount cooling fans for the tmc2209 drivers before I increase current above 1a and really test the max accel.

[proven schooner]

@sleek bramble The actual electronics. The bottom has just become a collection of stuff as I move the printer around and crimp all the wires.

[sleek bramble]

looks dope runing 2 mcus ?

or mmu

[proven schooner]

Needed 9 stepper drivers. M8p only has 8.

[sleek bramble]

cool

[proven schooner]

That’s coming too. Lol.

[sleek bramble]

i ordered a boxed turtle hope it comes soon

[sleek bramble]

btw

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008377714252.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.c77860b4JuLVp5&algo_pvid=fb38a122-50e1-40cb-bb08-32f09509f812&algo_exp_id=fb38a122-50e1-40cb-bb08-32f09509f812-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!KWD!12.623!12.623!!!39.57!39.57!%40213ba0c517378654815852544ee44f!12000044783992129!sea!KW!2629508732!X&curPageLogUid=I83gT7Nq6rZw&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

whaddya think ?

[proven schooner]

AWD + Y assist. 500mm/s 40k accel iirc. Unless this is the wrong video. 😅

[sleek bramble]

same i got a siboor kit and lemme tell ya best kit i ever got off a voron

[proven schooner]

I saw that thing. I half considered ordering it but I already have an Ebb36 waiting to go in this printer. Perhaps if I break the Ebb36 I’ll get it.

[proven schooner]

Mine was a formbot trident 350 kit. It’s now missing about half the formbot provided parts.

[sleek bramble]

io ordered a sht 36 v3 plus lets hope its good

i keep gettting a problem with my ebb36 losing comunication with my carto timing errors and extruder timeouts

i changed the ebb to a dif one and i still get those

recrimped everything nothing works

so im guessing its the carto

btw the cool thing about h36 is that its usb and can

[proven schooner]

Weird. Im assuming that at some point im gonna need to upgrade my cb1 to the cm4 as I will be running a rather large can bus in the end. The monster8, m8p, sb2209, and carto are currently all on the can bus. I’ll eventually be swapping the sb2209 for the ebb36 and adding a btt mmb for the ercf.

[sleek bramble]

i oredred and orange pi 4 lets hope it does the job aswell

its pretty good from what i heard

[proven schooner]

It is. My micron+ runs one. They are pretty good.

[sleek bramble]

yep i really really hope its not my carto

[proven schooner]

Unplug the can wires to your carto. Twist them together a bunch. Then plug them in again.

[sleek bramble]

did that already

[proven schooner]

Oh. Lol. Well it was a try.

[sleek bramble]

actually used cat 5 cables 2 so properly twisted xD

[sleek bramble]

guess what i fixed xD u wont guess what was the fix

[proven schooner]

What’d you do?

Forget a jumper?

[sleek bramble]

tachometer_poll_interval:0.000015

guess whats wrong in this xd

[proven schooner]

One too many 0’s? 😆

[sleek bramble]

yep

[proven schooner]

Nice. So it was the ebb36 and not the carto. Lol.

[sleek bramble]

this was overloading my whole shit

[sleek bramble]

yep

dropped a 0 and its working

[proven schooner]

Bet you’re glad about that.

[sleek bramble]

lets hope hats the last thing

not really the parts are literlaly a day away

xD

[proven schooner]

Lmao. Upgrades!

[sleek bramble]

yup

the sht36 has xt connector which is better

i hate the micro molex\

[proven schooner]

I’ll be cutting the xt connector off the cable I’m currently using to go molex. 🤣

[sleek bramble]

ewww

[proven schooner]

[fierce forge]

Wen 48v?

[proven schooner]

When I have money. 🤣

[fierce forge]

https://tenor.com/view/money-wallet-broke-gif-7855913

[blissful latch]

36v and 2240s my beloved

i have high hopes for thouse drivers

[fierce forge]

Never used them… will be using 2160’s, 24v, on 2804

[blissful latch]

i havent yet either but i have ordered some for my trident build since @thin kite has praised them a lot for being really damn quiet

[fierce forge]

I don’t really care for quietness, I like performance

[proven schooner]

I have no choice. My printer will be loud. No matter what I do. Steppers outside printer and 6 of them on the gantry. Lol.

[blissful latch]

out of interest are you staying with stealthburner?

[proven schooner]

Heck no. Gonna build reaper soon to try out and possibly will end up with a in dev toolhead in the end once I get Goliath.

[blissful latch]

oh reaper will be a good choice for sure!

[proven schooner]

Maybe. COM matters more than anything on this gantry.

[fierce forge]

Break neck

The toolhead

[fierce forge]

Did you ask nicely if they could be quiet?

[proven schooner]

It’s gotta fit carto cnc mount for now. I’ll give it up eventually but not yet.

[fierce forge]

Could modify the mounting holes

Or you could do xol withcpap

Uses the same mounting as stealthburner

[thin kite]

I've been sumoned

what are we shilling today?

[fierce forge]

36v 2240

[proven schooner]

That’s a good option.

I’ll give up the cnc mount once I get vibratite vc3. But it’s gonna be a bit for that since it’s low on my priority list.

[thin kite]

If 36v and 2a is not limiting factor for you then 2240 are just better choice than 5160. 5160 are old design, flawed and good luck smashing toolhead at 150mm/s to register sensorless there

I think https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWDZLtUeg6o suggest that up to 1000mm/s 36v is okay

chances are if you go with 1.8' stepper over 0.9' it will be even more

or not, not that I understand all this witch craft. I just had few hundreds hours with 5160 and I refuse to use them anymore

[proven schooner]

My limiting factor is I want 56v for no other reason than the memes. 😆

@fierce forge F it. I’m ordering the tiny tube. It’s only $6. I’m gonna keep the cnc mount for the moment because redoing belt tension is a pain on this thing (there’s 4 total belts on the gantry) and I wanna experiment with a couple different CPAP toolheads first before changing.

[proven schooner]

More than likely. It would depend on the motor though and your goal accel. For 36v I’d stick around 750mm/s so that your accel doesn’t drop drastically.

[viscid hill]

Breakneck my beloved

Or in this case, a usermod of Breakneck.

[proven schooner]

Which usermod?

[viscid hill]

Longneck, let's you run a repackaged BMG extruder in it

https://discord.com/channels/1029426383614648421/1267614657263435836

[proven schooner]

I’ll have to check that one out too. Gotta play around with this gantry. I mean seriously. 20k accel recs on IS. Need to find a toolhead that matches with my build.

[viscid hill]

Archetype, SLM carriage and belt clips, Longneck or Mjolnir

[blissful latch]

takeoff with chube

[proven schooner]

Ew. 😆. Mostly the price tag. Lol.

Also if I went Chube it would be Chube conduction. And that’s an even higher price tag. Lol.

[proven schooner]

8 electronics bay fans now! The one above the cb1 (that’s not currently spinning) is setup with PID to keep it cool. The rest turn on with the steppers.

[west heron]

https://tenor.com/view/there-is-a-zombie-on-your-lawn-pvz-sunflower-scared-scream-gif-13941080350231673076

[proven schooner]

Should be able to run much more current on the tmc2209 drivers now.

Hexdent stepper fan control until I add the stepper motor fans:

#####################################################################
#     Fan Control
#####################################################################

[fan]
pin: SB:gpio14
kick_start_time: 0.5
off_below: 0.10

[heater_fan hotend_fan]
pin: SB:gpio13
max_power: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
heater: extruder
heater_temp: 50.0
fan_speed: 1.0
shutdown_speed: 1.0

[multi_pin EC_Fans_Steppers]
pins: PD2, Z:PA0

[controller_fan EC_Fans_Steppers]
pin: multi_pin:EC_Fans_Steppers
max_power: 1.0
shutdown_speed: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
off_below: 0.1
fan_speed: 1.0
idle_timeout: 60
idle_speed: 0.3
heater:

[multi_pin EC_Fans_Heaters]
pins: PA4, Z:PA1

[controller_fan EC_Fans_Heaters]
pin: multi_pin:EC_Fans_Heaters
max_power: 1.0
shutdown_speed: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
off_below: 0.1
fan_speed: 1.0
idle_timeout: 60
idle_speed: 0.3
stepper:
heater: extruder, heater_bed

[multi_pin Stepper_Fans]
pins: PF9, PF6, PF8

[controller_fan Stepper_Fans]
pin: multi_pin:Stepper_Fans
max_power: 1.0
shutdown_speed: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
off_below: 0.1
fan_speed: 1.0
idle_timeout: 60
idle_speed: 0.3
heater:

[temperature_fan MCU_fan]
sensor_type: temperature_host
pin: PF7
max_temp: 80.0
target_temp: 45.0
min_temp: 0
shutdown_speed: 1.0
kick_start_time: 0.5
off_below: 0.19
max_speed: 1.0
min_speed: 0.0
control: pid
pid_Kp: 2.0
pid_Ki: 5.0
pid_Kd: 0.5
pid_deriv_time: 2.0

[fan_generic bed_fans]
pin: Z:PA2
max_power: 1.0
off_below: 0.1
kick_start_time: 1.0
shutdown_speed: 1.0

[proven schooner]

https://tenor.com/view/it-fucken-wimdy-its-fucking-gif-24928261

I would like to add. I’m still using only a 200w psu. 🤣

[misty mauve]

It's wimdy

[latent condor]

I guess you'll know you've pushed it too far when it starts hiccuping 😉

[proven schooner]

Well. I’m gonna test pushing current to the steppers in a bit. Who knows what might happen. 🤣

I do however have some lrs-350 PSUs I can swap in if needed.

[devout heath]

I was thinking of placing just one 80mm Arctic F9 fan above my Manta M8P for both stepper and CB1 cooling. I question whether I even need that. My two formbot supplied fans running at 50%, one coming on with the hotend, the other coming on with the bed, cools the CB1 and M8P onboard thermistors to low 30’s 😂 I just mostly want to use one of my arctic fans under there…the most wonderful, soothing white noise fans I have, and I have seven of them, unused in box. 📦

[proven schooner]

Once all 8 fans kick on I don’t see temps above 30 in the electronics bay. Even the cb1 with its pid fan never gets above that. Lol.

[devout heath]

I wouldn’t expect them to, based on the adequacy of two fans at 50% in my, admittedly more pedestrian, chamber.

[proven schooner]

Yea. It’s kinda crazy. But also cool at the same time. Pun intended. 😆

[devout heath]

Absolutely haha!

[proven schooner]

I’m actually out of controllable fan ports and still need fans on the steppers. Either I A) use stepper driver port fan adapters, 3 fans each that way, or B) design my arduino mega shield to have an additional set of fan connectors.

[misty mauve]

I feel like the Arduino shield would be good

I'm sure there are other people who would use it also lol

[devout heath]

If you could place just one 80mm fan over the M8P, would you center it, place it over the steppers, or place it over the passive heatsink of the CB1? I could always place one over the CB1 and one over the steppers, but I believe one fan would be more than enough for my setup. I’d also probably be inclined to lower voltage from 12 to 9 volts on the single arctic fan.

[proven schooner]

Over the drivers. The cb1 doesn’t need nearly as much cooling.

[proven schooner]

Arduino shield is already going to be designed because I want 12 more thermistor connections. So mayhaps that’s the best plan.

[devout heath]

Also, it’s not going to remain a CB1 for long lol

[proven schooner]

New extruder!

[misty mauve]

Is that the a4t one? Or normal wwbmg

[proven schooner]

New wwbmg version. It’s gonna be a bit longer before I get around to ercf install and need the dual filament sensors. Lol.

[misty mauve]

Yep, just don't do what I did and forget to reprint the rapid burner parts lol

I made the a4t wwbmg only to realize it uses different mounting and had to disassemble everything

[proven schooner]

Lol. I’ll modify it in cad first then.

[misty mauve]

I think I'm gonna swap to wwbmg on my v0 at some point

Yes I think it matches the Sherpa mini mount

Instead of orbiter

[queen vapor]

What filament?

[proven schooner]

Zyltech ABS for now. Not enough time in the day to anneal. 😅

[queen vapor]

Lol reasonable

I love how shiny it is

[proven schooner]

Yea. This stuff is really shiny.

[misty mauve]

I've noticed since getting the Goliath all my filaments are so much shinier lol, not bring on the edge of your flow rate cap helps

Prusament pla looked super shiny

[proven schooner]

I shall be using a rapido uhf for now.

[misty mauve]

Chonky

[proven schooner]

That’s all sock. Lol.

This is under it. Mze with TC nozzle.

[misty mauve]

Yea the rapidos always look funky with the sock on

[proven schooner]

They look pretty good imo with the sock. At least you don’t have to remove the thermistor to take off the sock like Goliath. 🤣

[blissful latch]

that souns like a critical design error if you ask me

and also a pita

[proven schooner]

I gave up and put a slit in the Goliath sock to more easily remove it around the thermistor.

[misty mauve]

I did that also lmao

It's like if you want to go over 300 then you need to remove the sock which sucks for do

[proven schooner]

You can do 320 with the silicone sock for a while.

[misty mauve]

Good to know

[proven schooner]

Plus the socks are cheap. Just buy a few to keep on hand to replace when the silicone gets dry.

[misty mauve]

Yes just waiting to make another ali order tbh lol

[proven schooner]

Your cart always full too?

[misty mauve]

Empty lol

Try to avoid looking at ali to much or I spend to much money lol

Waiting for my paychecks also

[blissful latch]

i can very much do that without aliexpress :P

[misty mauve]

I just try to order more than 1 thing at a time

[blissful latch]

aliexpress is just making it worse

[misty mauve]

Same but if I just don't look at any shopping sites its ok

[blissful latch]

in theory yes

in practice i dont work like that

[misty mauve]

True lol

Or if I just pretend I have 0 money I trick myself into thinking I can't buy anything

Also helps to not look at the voron discodd

[proven schooner]

I have upgraded my ups package that contains the CPAP! Whoo! Previous delivery date was Saturday. I’m assuming it’ll either be delivered Saturday or Monday. I’m fine with both especially as Monday is a day off work. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Holy cow. @amber trellis You were 100% right. Reaper is an absolute tank. I made a Ebb36 mount that uses the back 2 holes on the carto cnc mount to make it a bit more secure and wow. The only flex in the toolhead now is the rail.

[amber trellis]

It doesn't play lol

Glad it's working out for you

[proven schooner]

Reaper! Graphs are looking even better now too! Just need panels and CPAP and she’s ready to print ABS finally.

[blissful latch]

Looking really sick!

[proven schooner]

I’m in love with how well wiring the ebb36 went. (Ignore the non connected wire. Need a bat85 diode to connect the tacho to the ebb36)

[marsh plover]

STL for the manta fans?

[cedar python]

Dang that head looks slick. Makes me want to make one sooner. Let us know how well it works

[cedar python]

Is ebb36 usb or cam (brain is fried so probably the wrong thing XD)

[fierce forge]

I’m probably gonna have to ask you sometime soon, for how you got ebb36 working. I’ve been struggling

[proven schooner]

Can

[proven schooner]

Just follow esotericals guide

[misty mauve]

Considering you've got both, how much space would you lose on a micron with a reaper? Lol

I imagine you'd have to screw with mounting

But just wondering

[fierce forge]

https://tenor.com/view/yeah-boy-okie-dokie-sounds-good-thumbs-up-gif-14015271

[cedar python]

So close, yet so far. haha.

[proven schooner]

All of it probably. I went from 345 (hex drive loss with SB) to 325 (hex drive plus reaper) in X and lost 10mm in Y.

[misty mauve]

oof

Need more cooling on the micron

[proven schooner]

So far on speed testing. 500mm/s 60k accel at 1.6a. I didn’t go to the end on that current yet though. 1.0a was 45k.

[shut sundial]

Will you quit it? I'm jealous enough as it 🤣

[proven schooner]

Lmao. Not at all. I wanna find the limit of these 2004s at 24v. I’m also pushing tmc2209 at their limit. Already upped current to 2.0 (motor max, thermistors on motors so if they get too hot klipper will shut down) for the next tests. I’m taking a break to let my nerves relax.

[shut sundial]

I'm only kidding, definitely keep going lol

[proven schooner]

My heart needs to slow before I keep going. Don’t want my hand shaking while trying to hit the e stop. Lol.

[latent condor]

https://tenor.com/view/panda-eating-popcorn-akademiks-gif-4852066732879832234

[proven schooner]

Just waiting for me to overload the 200w psu I see. 😆

No immediate overtemp warnings at 2a on the tmc2209. So that’s good I think.

I lied. It took a second. Lol. Gonna go down to 1.9a

[misty mauve]

Aren't tmc2209s capped near 2a?

Or is it 3a

[proven schooner]

2a continuous 2.8 peak.

[misty mauve]

Ah ok

[proven schooner]

Looks like I’m going down to 1.8a. 1.9a got rid of one warning. I actually thought 1.8a would be the limit. Let’s see if that’s true.

[misty mauve]

Yea and they don't tend to be at 2a even if set

But still gonna run through that poor psu lol

[proven schooner]

Yea. The lrs-200 has taken me far but I imagine I’m pretty close to the limit.

[queen vapor]

Xiar are you gonna light this up like you did the last ones?

[misty mauve]

Is it a meanwell psu?

[proven schooner]

Eventually maybe

[proven schooner]

Yep. Meanwell lrs-200-24.

[misty mauve]

Atleast is a good PSU then lol

Not a no name psu

[proven schooner]

I’ve got some no name 350 psus. Lol. Technically not “no name” but they are from an ender 3. Lol.

[marsh plover]

Don't enders use genuine meanwells?

Mine does...

[proven schooner]

Not og ender 3’s. Lol.

[marsh plover]

I'll check mine again, maybe I'm having memory loss👍

[west heron]

From ender 3 pros yes

[proven schooner]

Yep. Nailed it. 1.8a and no warnings. My guesstimate was spot on.

I do have 3 4010 fans cooling them though. Lol.

Oop. Might’ve spoke one second too soon. 🤣

70k accel passed. Still going. Motors are only at 38c.

75k accel passed

80k failed. One last check at 75k now.

[latent condor]

It's a cool time of year for you, right? I wonder if you'll need to back off on some of these current settings come summer.

[proven schooner]

@viral briar @shut sundial 24v 1.8a 500mm/s 75k accel. That’s the limit of hex drive on a 350 with reaper at 24v!

[shut sundial]

Phew, thats no joke

[proven schooner]

Same temp inside as it is all year long right now. Gonna switch the cooling to a couple large blowers I think. Or swap the 4010 12v fans to 24v ones. Or go 4020 fans.

Motors are at 48c now.

[proven schooner]

I love these 2004s. Lol.

[viral briar]

75k lol. Thats amazing.

[shut sundial]

On 2209's no less, absolutely insane

[proven schooner]

4020 24v fans added to cart.

[misty mauve]

Clearly we need to make a hex drive v0 now :p

[shut sundial]

Coconut made one, they’ve been out for a while though

Not Y assist though, straight 6WD

[proven schooner]

I miss seeing @ember plume around. Wonder if they pop in when I’m not online.

[proven schooner]

Oh! @grand shadow You might wanna see the video above as well.

Okay. Wrote a quick macro override to run the bed mesh scan at a much better scv than just 5.

[gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE]
rename_existing: _BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
gcode:
    
    {% set scv   = printer.configfile.settings.printer.square_corner_velocity | int %}
    {% set accel = printer.configfile.settings.printer.max_accel              | int %}
       
    SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY={accel / 1000}
    
    _BED_MESH_CALIBRATE {rawparams}
    
    SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY={scv}

In my case. This runs the bed mesh with a scv of 70. Lol

9x9 mesh in just 14 seconds even at only 500mm/s. lmao.

[latent condor]

so what's the output of that mesh look like?

[proven schooner]

It’ll change when I move the printer back to its actual home.

[latent condor]

Looks great

[proven schooner]

I suppose theres no issue sharing my IS graphs as well.

This is a trident 350 btw.

Btw @rough topaz (sorry to pull you from your normal channels) new toolhead. Massive improvements.

[cedar python]

Must not spend alot of money to upgrade, must not spend all my money to upgrade

https://tenor.com/view/thirsty-spongebob-i-dont-need-it-sweat-gif-5031443

[proven schooner]

Scroll down a little further and you’ll see 75k accel. 😆

[rough topaz]

Was i pinged

[proven schooner]

Slightly above to see new graphs with new toolhead.

Just doing a test with this cheap din rail SSR that’s rated for “40” amps. While I don’t believe for a second it could do that it is certainly handling the 6a heater pad without a problem. The heat sink on it isn’t even very warm. I like it. (I do not suggest nor advise anyone to buy cheap SSRs)

Contactor is working great as well btw. It’s satisfying to hear it click on and off when the heater is turned on and off.

[rough topaz]

Looks better

[fierce forge]

Pour some concrete in the frame to reduce shaking

[proven schooner]

Part of that’s the table.

And another part is the hula feet. Lol.

[cedar python]

It's so freaking FAST

[cedar python]

Hows that other switch doing? Can't remember what it was called but it's connected to the mainboard and can kill the bed power

[proven schooner]

The contactor. It’s been great so far.

[green roost]

Pardon the ignorance. What exactly is the point?

[proven schooner]

Secondary safety to kill bed power in the event of a problem with it. SSRs typically fail in the on position. Right now most printers rely on the thermal fuse to break power in that event. The contactor can cut all power, both live and neutral, from the bed in the event of the SSR failing instead. Which means I’m not relying on a $1 fuse to blow at the right temp.

[green roost]

I see. How does it differ from another SSR? Is it controlled by the mainboard or is it a hardware cutoff somehow?

[proven schooner]

It’s a mechanical switch essentially. Controlled by the main mcu.

[green roost]

I see. That's basically what the SSR is though no?

[latent condor]

Sorry for butting in. But an SSR is a solid state device. It works via the magic of semiconductors. A mechanical contactor (same thing as a mechanical relay just with higher current handling capability), is literally a pair of contacts that open and close, like a mechanical switch.

[green roost]

Gotcha.

[misty mauve]

SSRs can operate pwm, but mechanical cant really

thats another key difference

[green roost]

Ok cool. Appreciate the info.

[latent condor]

Mechanical relays are used in applications where the switching frequency is low. The are also noisy.

[misty mauve]

pwm mechanical would be like "CLICK CLACK CLICK CLACK" lol

[latent condor]

or more like bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

[green roost]

Similar but different. Still using low voltage to control high voltage but physically rather than wizardry.

Thanks for explaining.

[proven schooner]

You are all good. I was driving and shouldn’t text and drive anyways. 😅. I was basically gonna say the same thing.

[proven schooner]

Yep. The one I’m using has a 24v coil. So it made it easy to just connect it to a heater output on the main mcu. I then have several macros setup overriding heater functions to automatically switch on and off that contactor when power to the bed is needed or not needed.

[cedar python]

Yep that. That's good. Thinking I might add one in the future, since the SSR can fail closed. But will need to redo the electronics layout

[green roost]

Ah interesting. So the bed cannot heat unless you're also heating the nozzle?

[proven schooner]

Nope. The bed can heat anytime. Give me a few and I’ll have the macros up on GitHub.

[green roost]

Ah sorry you said "a heater output" I misunderstood.

No rush 🙂

[proven schooner]

Here ya go: https://github.com/Xiar1/Voron/blob/main/MISC/Electrical/contactor.cfg

[green roost]

Nifty. How do you trigger it on thermal runaway?

Or rather SSR stuck on?

[proven schooner]

That’s the shutdown value. When klipper detects an error and goes to shutdown it will set the bed power pin to that value. Which happens to be 0.0 or off.

[green roost]

Ahh gotcha.

[proven schooner]

The nice part is just the fact it can cut all power to the bed. So if you wired your bed backwards by accident and connected neutral to the SSR instead of live there’s no power at all going to the bed heater when it’s off. It’s much safer that way.

[proven schooner]

@elder hull In case you didn’t see it. #1309948210160205834 message 500mm/s 75k accel 24v 1.8a. Hex drive.

[misty mauve]

So not exactly hexdent related but I figured youd like this idea @proven schooner , I was thinking about it randomly lol. What if I make a midi slicer song file, and program the neopixels to make a lightshow

[proven schooner]

That’s pretty easily done. There’s already a midi slicer out there and all you’d have to do is edit in the lights.

[misty mauve]

yea i was thinking of usiong midi slicer

I think I need more leds though and also wled probably lol

the skr pico isnt gonna cut it

[proven schooner]

Soooooo. Looks like I might actually be buying krakens for this thing. 🤣. Gonna use my tax refund to at the very least get 4 of the 6 needed. Lmao.

[misty mauve]

Just going faster lmao

I've got my cart full on West 3d lol, waiting for my paycheck

[proven schooner]

Yeaaaaa. 2 krakens is $135. 😆

[misty mauve]

Yikes

I think my cart is like 140$

[proven schooner]

Yes but. 80Ncm of torque. 🤣. The 2004s (and 2504s I don’t have) I currently have have 55Ncm.

[misty mauve]

Yea

slightly speedy

[proven schooner]

Rated for 60v too

[misty mauve]

gonna ouytrun the hotend lol

[proven schooner]

I can already do that. 🤣

[misty mauve]

need a chube xl

[proven schooner]

If I went Chube I’d want a Chube conduction. But I’m far from being able to do that.

[cedar python]

I've seen that, what's the difference from the air and conduction? Couldn't figure out how the conduction one got cooled

[proven schooner]

Chube air needs a fan. Chube conduction doesn’t get cooled. Metal carriages only. Heat is transferred from Chube top, to carriage, to rail, to extrusion. Through all that transfer. It’s cooled.

[cedar python]

Ohhhhhh gotcha. That makes sense. When I read the name of it I thought that's what it meant but when I got to thinking of the mount on my printer I was like... that's platic. XD

[proven schooner]

Yea. Don’t mount a Chube conduction on plastic. Lol. Maybe PEEK but that’s not exactly ideal.

[cedar python]

Is the PEEK with metal in it? Would make for a possible "in the mean time" solution if you don't have a metal carriage for your toolhead. The CPAP Reaper would look cool on an all metal carriage though. The footprint is so small XD

[proven schooner]

It does not. But it could handle what temps the Chube would be at for a normal Voron. Lol. CPAP reaper is what I plan on installing. Just waiting on the CPAP to arrive.

[cedar python]

That sucks lol. But also likely doesn't make much sense.

I look forward to seeing how that looks and it's performance. Which CPAP kit did you get?

[proven schooner]

Btt ofc

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/pout-kiss-blowing-a-kiss-suspense-christian-bale-gif-16931550113965916217

Are you going to be doing any air filtering in the build? Just curious.

[proven schooner]

Probably not

[cedar python]

Gotcha. Probably wont need it anyway, prints will be done fast enough.

[abstract crown]

I thought this was meant to be WC , not looking at the order page anytime soon but interesting nonetheless.

So your only options are takeoff ?

[proven schooner]

Calamity as well.

[proven schooner]

CPAP kit arrives today! Whoo!

[rough topaz]

@proven schooner looks like you are going full empty wallet on this one 🙂

[proven schooner]

Oh my wallet was empty 2 months ago. It’s just getting dustier at this point. 🤣

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/wallet-penacony-honkai-star-rail-clockie-no-money-gif-14673244072619990643

[abstract crown]

Let us know how loud is it

[west heron]

It’s louder than you think I can already tell you that

[abstract crown]

My printers are right next to my kiddos bedroom so I think I cannot go for this upgrade 😢

[west heron]

tbf you rarely use it at 100% under normal use

[proven schooner]

It’s not that loud.

[proven schooner]

I will 100% be using it at 100%. 🤣

[abstract crown]

I need a comparison vs the x1c LOL

[proven schooner]

You can have one once I have it fully mounted on my printer.

I love it

That’s not even max

[viral briar]

What are the specs on that? CFM and pressure?

[proven schooner]

14.7cfm 6.6Kpa max static pressure 45k rpm

It moves air faster than my 120mm blower. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Psssst. @quaint tapir

[quaint tapir]

🤔

Wuzzalthisthen

[proven schooner]

Welcome to Hexdent build log. Hex drive on a Trident 350. I do stupid stuff.

[quaint tapir]

Oh nice

[proven schooner]

And I got my CPAP blower!

[quaint tapir]

Also I’m disappointed in your beacon mesh

Why is it not 100x100

[proven schooner]

Carto. Not beacon. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Cb1. It doesn’t like it if I go over 49x49. 🤣

[quaint tapir]

I can’t wait to overmesh the fuck out of my 2.4 lol

CB1?

[proven schooner]

The btt compute module

[quaint tapir]

I’m newer remember 😛

Oh

[proven schooner]

It’s a bit slower than a cm4. Lol

[quaint tapir]

I’ve only been 3DP for a bit now tbh

I don’t even know what I have

[proven schooner]

Formbot kit you have a cb1. LDO kit no idea.

[quaint tapir]

What is it referring to?

Processor?

[proven schooner]

It’s the single board computer

[quaint tapir]

Ohh

Wait so my qidi has a better board

How

[proven schooner]

Price tag

The cb1 is like $20 iirc

[quaint tapir]

It’s an mks skippr

Ah damn I gotta look the leviathan up then lol

If it’s not enough I’m not installing it

[proven schooner]

Leviathan is the mcu. The sbc is what runs Linux and everything. The cb1 is a sbc and it goes in a manta mcu. With the leviathan you’d want to use a pi3 or pi4

[quaint tapir]

Ohhhhh

Yeah so it’s the pi

[misty mauve]

Did you happen to run a db test on that CPAP?

[quaint tapir]

That makes sense ok

[misty mauve]

Just trying to get a ballpark lol

[quaint tapir]

Yours is a combo board?

[proven schooner]

I could. It would be my Apple Watch though.

[quaint tapir]

Mines ~80

I’ve seen muffler files where the blower goes into a box w/ acoustic stuff to dampen it tho

[proven schooner]

Yep. Manta m8p and m5p are combo boards. They have a connector for a compute module like the cb1 or cm4

[proven schooner]

I’m building the muffler. Lol.

[quaint tapir]

This came with a pi4

So I should be fine

[proven schooner]

Oh yea. You’ll be fine

[quaint tapir]

Fuck I’m glad I didn’t get the troodon now tbh

[misty mauve]

M8p is pretty compact which is nice

[quaint tapir]

It was so limited for my uses

[misty mauve]

That's most combo boards to be fair

[quaint tapir]

I’d have already needed a new toolhead/psu/main board

[proven schooner]

I have a m8p v2 and a monster8 v2. 🤣. I’ll be adding an arduino mega as well.

[quaint tapir]

I think at least the leviathan will do for a bit

I need to look into cpap placement though

I’ve heard of you do it right, you can do abs still?

[proven schooner]

Yep. Just have the CPAP intake air from the chamber.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/stone-cold-steve-austin-stone-cold-what-gif-5546524793881907206

[quaint tapir]

Is there an ideal spot I wonder?

Like, am I gonna need to work up an under bed cpap? lol

[proven schooner]

Probably. But most mounts mount at the top back. On a trident it’s perfect since heat rises and the bed is pretty close to the top. On a v2 you just want to be sure the chamber is up to temp first.

[quaint tapir]

Ahhh heat rising is true yeah

I so rarely do abs anyway tbh, I’m sure I can manage just throttling down to 40% ish

You’ll have to let me know if the muffler works tbh

[cedar python]

I wonder if there is a way to rig up cpap with stealthmax on the rear panel. Seems like a cool mod. Could always drill the top panel for stealthmax though.

[cedar python]

I too am interested in this.

[quaint tapir]

What’s a stealthmax?

[proven schooner]

Massive air filter

[quaint tapir]

Ah

I run home filters

[proven schooner]

Needs a 300mm build plate minimum to printer

[quaint tapir]

So I’m not bothering

Not running any of the never more kit has given me an extra 3 blower fans though, two from that and one from the toolhead itself

Hoping to use those as bed fans

[cedar python]

https://github.com/nevermore3d/StealthMax

[quaint tapir]

I figure bed fans will help with chamber temps for the cpap

[proven schooner]

Oh they will. Massively

[quaint tapir]

How do they work?

Do you run them on preheat only or all the time

[cedar python]

That's pretty much what I''m doing with mine from the small nevermore. Just need to do wiring for it all so I can add 2 more.

[proven schooner]

All the time

[quaint tapir]

Oh word

Is there “too many”?

[proven schooner]

I have a benefit of a trident though. I use 2 120mm fans. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Not really. May just need to slowly turn up their speed as to not pull so much heat the bed heater can’t keep up

[quaint tapir]

Ahh ok

This bed is fucking massive

It’s so heavy honestly lol

It’s like an inch thick

[proven schooner]

350? Yea. They big.

[quaint tapir]

I didn’t expect it to be so thick tbh

But it looks super flat

[cedar python]

If you have the fans going when the bed is heating be sure to do PID tuning with the fans on.

[quaint tapir]

Ah word

[proven schooner]

Or don’t and yolo it like me.

[quaint tapir]

I’m hoping to use the newer version of PID on kalico

What the hells it called

[cedar python]

I just did to prevent it from throwing errors XD

[quaint tapir]

I wish I could do 240v tbh

I just don’t want to do a buck converter

[proven schooner]

Dryer. Outlet. Also why would you need a buck converter?

[quaint tapir]

I don’t have a free 240v outlet

[cedar python]

There is a more advanced PID but I think you are referring to MPC.
(I have the Kalico docs up still XD)

[quaint tapir]

Can’t you buck/boost 120 up?

[proven schooner]

Not AC. That needs a transformer

[quaint tapir]

Ah

Well I wish I could do 240v lol

That’d make heating the bed ridiculously easy

[proven schooner]

Just use a heatsink on your SSR and you can use the full bed power without issue. A 750w bed is a ton of heating power

[cedar python]

Depending on what you are printing, your bed heatup time, at least from my experience with a 300mm isn't what will take the most time.

[proven schooner]

It’s usually the chamber heating that takes the longest

[cedar python]

new mod added to my list of to does XD

Adding blobifier first though. got a kit off ali

[quaint tapir]

Hm?

Sorry ssr?

[cedar python]

Solid state relay

[quaint tapir]

Ah

[proven schooner]

The stock omron can only do 4a without a heatsink. So you need a heatsink or a Panasonic SSR instead. It’s the thing that controls power to the bed heater.

Since the bed heaters are ac

[quaint tapir]

Ahhhh

Yeah that makes sense

[proven schooner]

I’m using a SSR with a heatsink. I won’t say which because I’m using a cheapy that I wouldn’t suggest anyone else use. Lol.

[quaint tapir]

I may try more abs once I get the 2.4 going, just because I’ll have the ability

It’s not any less child safe ig than pla

[cedar python]

You also got the contactor so hopefully if ssr go poof that will save the day XD

[proven schooner]

Exactly

[cedar python]

I print mostly ABS, ABS+, and ASA. I like printing it a lot, but just make sure you got those panels on and that air is filtered. Stuff burns my nose at least. The S is styrene, nasty stuff.

PLA it's mostly the micro plastic and airborn pops of plastic you need to worry about. though breathing any of it in is bad. (part of why I'm looking forward to trying PHA)

[quaint tapir]

I have a whole home air filter

[cedar python]

I'm a noob for clarity but this one thing I've looked into a lot. XD

[quaint tapir]

Pm2.5 standalone units and carbon inline duct filters with ~15lbs

[cedar python]

That will do good I'd suspect. Only real issue is what you breath in before it reaches that, but I have no idea what all that would be XD

[quaint tapir]

So for the ducting, you just put the canisters inline with the ducts, and add an inline fan to prevent pressure reduction

And my standalone units are large electrostatic filters

[cedar python]

That do it.
Likely does a hell of a lot more than the stealthmax lol

[cedar python]

What did you attach it with? Epoxy?

[quaint tapir]

Yeah it does well

[proven schooner]

Mines integrated

[quaint tapir]

~15lbs of charcoal, it can knock most frying smoke out

[cedar python]

Oh gotcha

[quaint tapir]

I’ll just need to make sure I run it when printing as always

I may still do a stealthmax for odor tho

Hit it at the source

So what’s a hex drive?

[proven schooner]

It’s Thor’s currently unreleased (I’ve built the second ever so far) trident gantry that is AWD and Y assist. It also moves the motors outside of the enclosure so getting the enclosure spicy is a little easier.

[quaint tapir]

What’s y assist?

I understand what awd is

Relacing idlers with steppers

[proven schooner]

2 extra motors to move in the Y axis. Takes the weight of the X extrusion off the AWD motors basically. Makes for a very fast printer.

[quaint tapir]

Huh

Neat

[proven schooner]

I’m currently only on 24v at 1.8a but capable of doing 75k accel. And this is a trident 350. Lol.

[quaint tapir]

At that point wouldn’t it be easier to go crossxy?

[proven schooner]

Then it wouldn’t be a Voron

[quaint tapir]

Ah

I didn’t know there was a limit to customizing

I just figured if it gets an initial serial it’s always a voron 😛

[proven schooner]

Technically. After you have a serial. You can do whatever you want. But to get a serial. It has to be a gantry with the Voron belt paths.

[quaint tapir]

I didn’t realize Dr victor Voron was so particular

He invented the voron and 3d printing I think

[proven schooner]

I just wanna keep it a Voron. Lol. CrossXY isn’t something I’ve been interested in.

[proven schooner]

That was RCF

(I’m not gonna ping him. Lol)

[quaint tapir]

Hm?

No im fairly sure his name is doctor voron

I’ll tell the story for my serial video

[proven schooner]

RCF may get a kick out of that.

[quaint tapir]

I think you mean doctor voron

And hopefully

He invented plastic you know

And I think he stole fire from the gods to create his sons

🤷‍♂️

but they were deceived, for another ring was made

But fr is that who came up with the voron?

I gotta watch that video sometime lol

[proven schooner]

Yep. RCF is the main man himself.

[quaint tapir]

Ah no kidding

All the the vorons?

[shut sundial]

For a 350 Cross gets weird

[quaint tapir]

Ah

[shut sundial]

Backers get bigger and bigger as the scale increases

Afaik

[quaint tapir]

Ah

I wish the magneto X didn’t suck tbh

The idea of a beltless machine is interesting

I wonder if that could be done DIY

Or if it would still suck

[crisp adder]

The StealthMax S fits on a 250 BTW.

[proven schooner]

Fair enough. I just have plans for the big one. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Super close now!

Absolute unit of a toolhead

And now the wwbmg has its thumb screw back. Lol.

@latent condor What’s your bet that on first print I overload the psu now? 6 steppers running 24v 1.8a, a hotend that uses 115w, CPAP that uses 70w, 3 steppers at 24v 0.6a, a led that’s running at 10% (that ones probably negligible) and then all the rest of the electronics in the electronics bay? Still running the lrs-200. 😅

[fierce forge]

Center of gravity gonna be crazy

[proven schooner]

Hehe. LOUD.

[proven schooner]

Believe it or not. It’s still pretty good. With the Y assist belts where they are it works out pretty well.

[west heron]

wat. poor lrs-200

[proven schooner]

Yea. I’m fairly confident first print is going to be eventful. 🤣

[blissful latch]

yea thats sounds like a recipe for you needing to buy a new psu :P

[proven schooner]

No need to buy. There’s one in the drawer over here. 🤣

There’s actually 2

3 if you count the 150w one. But I’m planning on switching to 350w.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/fly-away-gi-joe-a-real-american-hero-the-synthoid-conspiracy-fly-jet-gif-17529838

[proven schooner]

The amount of force it takes to manually move the toolhead. 🤣

[cedar python]

good god thats a lot

[proven schooner]

Gt3 tensioned to unknown tensions. 🤣

[blissful latch]

that looks like it might just blow your idler bearings level of tension :P

[proven schooner]

Their fine. It’s fine. I have replacements next to the printer for when they go bad. 🤣

There’s 8 toothed idlers on this thing. 🤣

[cedar python]

Exploring the unknown. Don't end up like the bear.

https://tenor.com/view/bear-scratching-itchy-funny-animals-gif-11787297

[proven schooner]

I tensioned them to 3.0 on the belt tension meter. But that’s still only half the rated tension for gt3 belts. So I tensioned them to that plus like 2-3 more turns on the tensioners. Still probably need more.

[cedar python]

Damn, getting those bad boys real right. Guessing with that many motors more tension is needed. Guess you keep going till it starts skipping?

[shut sundial]

Live shaft eventually lol

[proven schooner]

Gt3 I need the tension. And it’s all double shear. So I can basically bend the frame instead before the belts or anything on the gantry breaks. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Eventually for me is more likely never. 😅. The front motor mounts and X/Y joints would be pretty easy to replace. The back idlers. Yea how about never again. Lmao.

[cedar python]

😂 Your printer is so over built and I love it.

[proven schooner]

When I inevitably bend the frame. I’ve already decided to get a 4040 frame. Lol.

[cedar python]

That printer is going to be THICC

[blissful latch]

might as well go monolith then to!

[proven schooner]

Why would I downgrade?

I have AWD + Y assist…

[blissful latch]

well live shaft would be a giant upgrade allowing you to go with an even higher tension

and im sure you could add y assist with monolith :P

[proven schooner]

Yes. And it’s planned for Hexdrive. Lol.

[blissful latch]

ah! good to know :D

[proven schooner]

Creator refuses.

[latent condor]

Well, overload for the supply is 110-140% rated power. So, chances are good that you'll hit it, but not guaranteed because not all your loads are at their max at the same time.

[blissful latch]

yea but their cad for printed models is online and afaik the licence allows modification

[proven schooner]

Yea. I’m fairly confident first print will be exciting. May put a current meter on the psu and see how much I’m drawing.

[proven schooner]

Fair enough. I’m not that great of a designer though. Plus. Hexdrive has one huge advantage imo. Motors outside printer.

[blissful latch]

oh true, any chance you got a link to the project?

[latent condor]

It shouldn't be exciting from a PSU perspective. If you draw too much, it will simply cut power and your system will shut down abruptly.

[proven schooner]

Unreleased

[proven schooner]

That will be the exciting part. Making sure I don’t then melt the toolhead. 🤣

[proven schooner]

One day though. This gantry is awesome. It’s just. Not many have built it. As in. 2. 2 have built it. Thor and me. 😅

[latent condor]

Oh yea, if your hotend is hot, and your fans drop out... could be bad times ahead.

[proven schooner]

It’s gonna be exciting!

[latent condor]

It'll be something!

[shut sundial]

He designed it to avoid Y assist, as is if you add it it’ll create torsion on the X beam and hurt IS on Y

This gantry was designed to use Y assist and avoid that torsion

There’s some graphs around somewhere, I’ll ask if they’re allowed to be posted

[shut sundial]

Working on it lol

[shut sundial]

It’s still great, I use Monolith on my V2 and absolutely love it. Just simply different gantries with different designs. We build for fun around here, and different is fun

[proven schooner]

Thor has posted the Hex drive graphs in plaid.

[abstract crown]

We should ask politely for an open beta ! Maybe Thor will do it

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/dumpster-fire-chicago-nascar-fire-dumpster-gif-686973680180245936

hmmmmm didn't realize there was a logo... XD

[proven schooner]

A few Hexdrive videos

[latent condor]

Still runnin the 200W supply?

[proven schooner]

Yep. It didn’t overload. Miraculously. Lol.

[latent condor]

Any idea how much current it is outputting?

[proven schooner]

None at all atm. Thinking about adding my old current meters from the micron though. Then we will see how much current.

[latent condor]

You could get a DC current clamp meter. They seem to run about $60 or so. Been thinking of picking one up myself...

[proven schooner]

I could. Or I could also throw my multimeter in series and actually measure the current. Lol.

[latent condor]

Much less convenient and you run the risk of making a mistake that could get exciting!

[proven schooner]

I need to do that anyways to calibrate the voltage and current displays properly. 😅

[latent condor]

Taking current measurements by putting my meter in series is one of the things I like doing the least when it comes ot measuring stuff.

The convenience of a current clamp... you'll wonder how you ever lived without it. I have one at work that I use that attaches to my oscilloscope. I'm spoiled there.

Everyone knows voltage, but there's a whole world of current that remains hidden to the masses.

[proven schooner]

What I would love is some dc current meters like my ac one that does it with a coil around the wire.

[latent condor]

That's what I'm talking about.

[proven schooner]

Yea. I should’ve phrased it as. The meters on the front of my printer. I want those to have them. Would make it easier to wire up.

[latent condor]

I have no experience with this model, but https://www.amazon.com/UNI-T-Digital-Handheld-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B0188WD1NE

[proven schooner]

This is what I’m thinking about. https://a.co/d/cv5yMUR

Oooo. What if I did analog meters instead? Those would be neat. I don’t really need the voltage. Just the current after all.

[latent condor]

What I'm talking about is more of a diagnostics tool. You're looking more for a display. What you linked there may work, probably will.

[proven schooner]

Yep. Your tool would be great. I just like it to always be on display. Lol.

[viral briar]

I'm probably going to open it up now that at least one other person has it running.
@proven schooner and @shut sundial have been working with me on this and I think it's ready to share.

[viral briar]

On mine with 6 motors at 2 amps rms in Klipper at 48 V I measured 0.35 amps each while enabled and stationary and 0.65 amps each while moving around at 1m/s.

This was measured between the 48v psu and the mcu on the mot power line.

When I took those measurements I was running it on a 100w psu.😅 Needless to say I upgraded that.

[proven schooner]

Jeeeez. And I’m over here planning on 56v at 3a for each motor. 🤣.

[proven schooner]

I’m glad I’m planning on a 350w then.

50% CPAP. 20k accel on everything to solve my skipping issue. Will slowly increase. Putting the galvanic umbilical guide back soon as well.

Going to get some anti vibration pads as well for the feet. I can feel my apartment floor vibrating a bit. Lol.

@viral briar @shut sundial 18 minute PLA Voron cube. 20k accel on all features. Untuned everything. Turned out pretty good!

24³ flow max

[shut sundial]

Not bad at all lol, that’s looking great

[proven schooner]

I think I could actually tune that to be a pretty great printing setting too. It’s nearly perfect by my standards.

[shut sundial]

Oh yeah, little bit of tuning and those setting could probably be daily speeds. Might get Reth to scribble on your pictures some lol

[proven schooner]

He’s here in this build log. If he decides to he’s more than welcome. Lol. I think I might try running through the tuning guide and actually tune it a little to do pla at 24³ flow.

[cedar python]

Hula not doing enough? 😂

[proven schooner]

They are helping. But they are meant for input shaper graphs and for multiple printers on one table. Not meant to dampen the speeds and accels I’m doing from vibrating the floor.

[proven schooner]

Oh! And @thin kite . You aren’t here yet so… whatcha think of this cube? (Genuinely curious)

[cedar python]

Ohh gotcha. Will you be combining the 2 or does it have to be one or the other?

[proven schooner]

I’ll be using both

[cedar python]

Nice!

[proven schooner]

Much better reverse bowden and umbilical path than before. Back to the galvanic. New CPAP mount is printing without the tube hole in it.

[brazen condor]

If your feeling brave you could print one of these and huck it in your meter, use alt calibration instructions from my git using desired weight . It should be able to reach ~18lb (80N) max with stock spring albeit with slightly lower resolution on the low end of the scale.

I was never here

https://tenor.com/view/jerry-ninja-vanish-smoke-magic-gif-16341995

[proven schooner]

Interesting. Got any data on that? Just curious as I haven’t messed with my tension meter much. I can print a second one to use for these higher belt tensions.

[brazen condor]

Yeah, 18lb max is the data but I didn't bother creating a full tension table since its not really ideal to have the spring pre-loaded that much. So this is really only useful for hitting a target tension, not so much for everything else in between

[proven schooner]

Perfect. I’ll give it a shot. I’ll print a second meter so I don’t have to touch the good one.

[brazen condor]

Good idea! be careful installing the spring with that extension, mildly spicy

[proven schooner]

Hehe. Thanks for the advice!

[ruby dune]

Whoa, that cpap sounds just

[proven schooner]

I’m waiting for it to turn on and the psu to shut off. 🤣

[ruby dune]

Those overhangs on that cube look slightly undercooled - give it 100%!

[proven schooner]

I’m 90% certain that if it’s set to 100% at any point in the print the psu will shut off. It’s a 200w lrs. I’m at its limit I’m sure. Will be adding current meters soon so we’ll find out.

[thin kite]

I am not expert on quality. you can make any print look bad under harsh light

[proven schooner]

I think that will do for umbilical management for now.

[shut sundial]

Very clean

[proven schooner]

I’m gonna do my best tonight to not print with it cause this thing is so loud but I am gonna work on enclosing the trident tonight. Hopefully once fully enclosed it’s a little quieter. At least the CPAP will be. Lol.

[shut sundial]

Hopefully no neighbor disturbing lol

That insulation should cut down on noise a lot too, @west sorrel could say for sure

[viral briar]

Enclosing makes a huge difference for most printers. Nothing makes 100k accels quiet though.

[proven schooner]

Yea. It’s the CPAP that’s the loudest right now though.

[viral briar]

Enclosure should take care of most of that I suspect.

[proven schooner]

Hopefully! Then we’ll be back to printing all night long. May make a way for the enclosure to be closed but still print pla as well. The CPAP makes it far too easy to print fast with pla.

[latent condor]

Kind of reminds me when we had a big 3 phase 480V blower motor for a work project. It sounded like a jet engine. One of the ME's made a box out of wood to cut down on the noise, and that worked quite well.

[viral briar]

Brb. Gonna find a 480v blower for my v0 part cooling.

[latent condor]

Maybe like this? https://www.industrialfansdirect.com/collections/aeration-process/products/ab-1200

[proven schooner]

How is that quieter than CPAP. 🤣. 81db. Fairly confident in saying CPAP is around 90db. Also 15kw?! This is the part cooling we need!

[misty mauve]

That and also rig the intake to a ac unit

Super cold high speed air

[latent condor]

Oh it's not quieter, that's for sure. Just reminded me of the need to use sound abatement techniques to quiet air moving devices!

[proven schooner]

I have half a back panel! Still need to add the insulation to the inside of it but we are getting there!

[mellow crest]

https://tenor.com/view/lord-of-the-rings-my-precious-scream-gif-17264451

[proven schooner]

Half of the back is done!

Top panel parts are printing now!

[proven schooner]

1 of 2 front panel sides on now as well! I am gonna wait to put any insulation on the back of them just to be sure door works first.

That’s conveniently empty now. Lol.

Okay! Once the X1C is done with its current print. I’ll mount the back panel pieces on the back. And then start printing the right side of the front panel parts. While those print I’ll go design the left side panel clamps with insulation in mind.

After the left panel is done I just need new skirts, a top panel, and a door.

[proven schooner]

Front panel parts ready to go!

Actually no

That's better

[proven schooner]

I might add a led bar into the left panel mount. There’s plenty of room I think. And I think I’ll use that bar to display print progress.

[quaint tapir]

If it isn’t doctor voron himself

10/10 chance that’ll be voiced over for my 2.4 serial

incoming ban

[grand shadow]

Does 56v DC scare you?

[proven schooner]

Not yet. Might when I finally have the psu in hand.

[grand shadow]

It should

People who know more than me refuse to discuss or work on projects over 50v DC in the 3dp space. Dalegaard iirc is one.

Thats the voltage at which DC really starts to get properly dangerous.

[warm oak]

its not really different to 48v

[proven schooner]

In terms of what it can do to the human body. Yes. Of course. That’s terrifying. However. I feel confident with my wiring and will be taking many precautions with installing it. It’s not something I’m going to take lightly.

[warm oak]

just know a bit of electronics and youre fine

[grand shadow]

I dont know if theres a way you can wire in a small component to passively drain the caps after you power down. Id certainly want to know how to approach maintenance safely before i went for that upgrade path, myself.

[proven schooner]

Could always put in a small 60v - 24v buck and hook a fan to it.

[grand shadow]

I like this thinking

Not sure if itll drain the caps on the mcu or not, but you can always meter it after first use

[proven schooner]

Maintenance side of things is simply don’t touch electronics with the printer on. Which ya know. You shouldn’t do at 24v either. But turning off power and then letting it sit for a bit before double checking with multimeter that capacitors have drained before touching anything is good practice.

[grand shadow]

Cool cool. Id like you to be afraid of it, a little, but i will settle for "aware of the dangers"

[proven schooner]

I’m afraid of touching things with power on. Something I won’t be doing much of once that psu is installed. By that point I’ll hopefully have a panel to put on the electronics and will just not open it unless power is off.

[grand shadow]

My concern is more for caps when the machine is powered down. I hope no one messes with the electronics when its powered up anyways 😄

[proven schooner]

Caps are understandable. Those can pack a punch worse than a power supply. (I have totally not connected LEDs and fans while I had power on before. Not at all. 😅 )

[proven schooner]

Nailed it. 🤣

Welp. Someone forgot that @viral briar has a T250 and I have a T350. 🤣. Panels are too small

Welp. New ones printing. 4 hours for those. They just barely fit on the X1C. Lol. Printing both takes as long as printing one. May set it to ludicrous mode until it nears the top layers that will be visible in the printer.

[ruby dune]

Just curious, why print side panels instead of getting acrylic panels and cutting manually?

[proven schooner]

I can’t cut the cutouts needed by hand. I can in a sheet of abs. But I don’t have any left atm. So. Printing abs panels instead.

They aren't the most basic shape unfortunately. That would be too easy. Lol.

[grand shadow]

defo was not a prusa i3. I dont know why youd say that.

[cedar python]

which pannel clips are you using?

[crisp adder]

This is typically called a bleed resistor FYI

[proven schooner]

https://www.printables.com/model/643837-wide-voron-panel-snap-latch-with-lip-using-m2-scre

[cedar python]

Oh gotcha. I have seen some with a filament hing but couldn't tell if this was the same one. Need to get some m2 screws.

[proven schooner]

I didn’t like the filament ones. I have some. But the m2 ones were far better.

[cedar python]

The filament ones break or something?

[proven schooner]

Just terrible to assemble.

[cedar python]

Oh gotcha. Might print one and just see how it goes then. XD
Screws do seem better in all regard though

I did se something on instagram that is for straightening out the filament. Someone made it so the cars they made wouldn't have wonky wheels since they used filament as the axle. Might print it out for the hinges

[proven schooner]

@eternal dome I just ordered 4 of 6 new motors for it. 🤣

[eternal dome]

gees is that per motor?

[proven schooner]

Set of 2. To save on shipping with AliExpress. You order no more than 2 at a time.

They are $57 each and each set of 2 is $143 after shipping and taxes

[proven schooner]

Back panel done for now! I’ve got the right side of the front panel printing now. Gonna jump in cad now and make the left side insulated panel mount.

[cedar python]

It's looking good!
Which software are you using?

[proven schooner]

Fusion 360 ofc

[cedar python]

The absolute go to it seems XD

I really need to test that Linux port at some point

[proven schooner]

Not bad for a 350. Lol. Its back in its spot I originally had leveled the gantry in

[grand shadow]

That a beacon i spy? I find it unuseual to see a bed mesh that isnt 99 points on X and a normal number of passes, say 5-13 on Y.

[proven schooner]

Carto

[grand shadow]

I assume the same is possible.

I mean, same code, right

[proven schooner]

Yep. I could do that 99x99. I just see no point. Lol.

[grand shadow]

99x 7 tho

Takes the same time as 7x7

The Y axis value is the only one that actually changes the toolhead behaviour. If you start to push mesh move speed up silly high, youll start to see a breakdown in the smoothness of the probe results, if you have sufficiently fine grid, thats easier to pick out.

So i keep my mesh speed above my print speed, and have 99 points, and if i start to see issues in my mesh, it might be time to invesgigate for loose screws or a dying rail.

[proven schooner]

My micron+ does its mesh at 1m/s and 49x49. Lol. It’s quite smooth

Takes all of 23 seconds

[misty mauve]

so I can push mine from 200mm/s to 500 and be fine?

for some reason I thought 200 was the max lmao

[proven schooner]

More than likely.

That mesh above is 500mm/s

[misty mauve]

ok increasing it now lmao

[proven schooner]

If you have weird noises I have a macro for you.

[misty mauve]

wdym weird noises lol

[proven schooner]

From the scv being too low

[misty mauve]

ah ok those noises

ill check in a sec

[proven schooner]

This macro auto sets the scv in accordance to the config set max accel. Since that’s usually what the bed mesh runs at.

[gcode_macro BED_MESH_CALIBRATE]
rename_existing: _BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
gcode:
    
    {% set scv   = printer.configfile.settings.printer.square_corner_velocity | int %}
    {% set accel = printer.configfile.settings.printer.max_accel              | int %}
       
    SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY={accel / 1000}
    
    _BED_MESH_CALIBRATE {rawparams}
    
    SET_VELOCITY_LIMIT SQUARE_CORNER_VELOCITY={scv}

[misty mauve]

let me see

(I dont even think my SCV is properly set lol in orca lol)

thats jerk in orca right?

[proven schooner]

Yep

[misty mauve]

actually sounds normal besides my broke ass motion system

[proven schooner]

Lmao. What’s your config set scv at?

Oh. And mesh size

[misty mauve]

one of my idler stacks is squeaking lol

ill check

mesh is 30x30

10 is my SCV, max accel is 24k

[proven schooner]

Change that 30 to 29x29 and accel to scv there is fine for resonance more than likely. That’s why you don’t need the scv change. Lol.

[misty mauve]

ill try it

[proven schooner]

First image with even number mesh, second with odd.

[misty mauve]

This noise lmao

the belt is also moving lmao

im ordering all new belts and rails so ill redo the entire gantry soon

[proven schooner]

That sounds perfectly fine minus the idler. Lol.

You don’t have the annoying resonance I get.

[misty mauve]

I had it when going 200mms

so I know what you mean

sounds like a loud clunk almost

and yea idk which idler that is yet lol, I suspect its one on my right rear motor mount

[proven schooner]

"Normal" sized mesh. Lol

[misty mauve]

Sounded pretty similar with a 29x29 but ill add your macro and see if it changes

[proven schooner]

Yea. That’s not a fix for sound. That’s a fix for printing on the full bed. Lol.

[misty mauve]

Ah ok

Sounds actually worse with the macro lol

[proven schooner]

Lol. You’ve got some weird resonance then

[misty mauve]

yea idk

the deck plate resonates so bad lmao

thats the worst actually, on Z moves its horrible

[proven schooner]

I have ems. It seems to secure it really well.

[proven schooner]

Turn off stealthchop on Z if you have it on.

[misty mauve]

I dont think it is, if I touch the deck plate it stops

Yea stealthchop is set to 0

If I stick something between the deck plate and frame itll probably go away

[proven schooner]

Here you go @grand shadow . 99x99. Lol. Just for fun cause the cb1 actually struggled there processing the data.

[proven schooner]

End of a zip tie works well for that

[misty mauve]

yea was gonna do that or some E tape

[proven schooner]

It actually took a solid minute to process that mesh btw. Lmao.

[misty mauve]

cb1 doesnt have enough power lol

[proven schooner]

We’ll see about that. 🤣. But no. It can’t process that mesh fast enough.

[misty mauve]

I cant wait till I get my paycheck and make it stop squeaking lmao

[proven schooner]

Currently I’m just seeing why my X1C stopped extruding.

[misty mauve]

Im also doing rails since I figured they will be easier to grease and actually using proper grease is a good idea

[misty mauve]

Clearly you arent using bambu approved filament

but yea my next order is rails, belts, ep2, bearings for double shear, and those moons extruder motors for the nightowl

[proven schooner]

Something tells me I need new thermal grease after 1.2k hours.

That’s should be red filament