Froron - Stealthchanging 2x tall v2.4 350 with built-in tophat/filament drybox

[molten dirge]

still dying in thesis. You bet the moment i'm done with my thesis the printer's getting wired up and all the extruders connected properly

But yes i have a place to put it now which is great

And I will be putting my other voron on top of this printer as well which will be very funny

[somber flume]

350 bed? what size is the frame?

if i had a redo i would build it 400 or 425 for a 350 bed

[molten dirge]

standard v2.4 350mm

[molten dirge]

urgh

6 days till due

[molten dirge]

custom wiring is so annoying.

I'm so tired of crimping

[royal cairn]

https://tenor.com/view/hang-in-there-kitten-meme-og-meme-monday-motivation-gif-9400048281645821126

[molten dirge]

Also good news guys. I uploaded my thesis, just waiting for approval

masters obtained soon

[burnt sinew]

Very cool. Should allow you to get back to crimping 😛

[molten dirge]

Pic of build to tide you guys over lmao

[burnt sinew]

Did they give you any idea of how long for their review?

[blazing stump]

unrelated to the build, what server rack is that lmao

[molten dirge]

getting replaced

[molten dirge]

supposed to be due tmr

[molten dirge]

Bois

Thesis accepted

If I didn’t fail classes were good to go

Unrelated, but water cooled RTX4090 48GB beast card

Cleaned it with a microfiber and it got all the liquid residue from wipes

[molten dirge]

ehehehehhehe

pikachu test print

totally didnt crash all the toolheads into each other and rip out all the wiring

[exotic hemlock]

yikes

[blazing stump]

Gulp

[molten dirge]

losing my mind with this printer haha

the structural panels are like my worst enemy

[royal cairn]

not too late to go clicketyclack all around 😂

[molten dirge]

lmao it won't hel w structure

[lucid kite]

Why they look and work great :P

[molten dirge]

Wiring stress

[civic lava]

Will standard A/B motors work on this, or do I need a motor with a longer shaft? Thanks!

[lucid kite]

you will need motors with a longer shaft. Stock motor shaft lengths are to short to reach the pully.

but if you are in the market for a cnc gantry kit id really suggest you wait until monolith cnc ist out in a couple of months!

[civic lava]

How many more months? 🙂 Well, I'm really not in a hurry. I'm also converting my 2.4 to SC and want to replace my CNC gantry with a 2WD to allow front bar mounting.

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite rip printer lmao

I think I shorted 48V during the crash

Urgh that’s gonna be a wallet ding

[lucid kite]

+2 atleast

but in all seriousness a couple at the least but no one knows for sure

[lucid kite]

how 😅

you shouldnt be able to shorten anything during a crash and if you are id suggest you really recheck your wiring cause something is up

[civic lava]

Livexy said he has 2WD kit in stock, but it is not properly reflected on his shop. So, for now, I will just wait. Thanks for the info.

[lucid kite]

yea im using his kit right now and it could be better. The toothed idler on the xy joint is beeing squished by the cnc parts making it really hard to turn which lowers print quality and shows up in input shaper values lowering your maximum possible accelerations. Also the space between belts on his kit is 6mm and not 4mm like on voron so you need to use his included carriage or else you will be in vfa hell (like i am right now).

[molten dirge]

No it ripped wiring from the panel

Like the rear panel with pass through

It shorted 24v*

[lucid kite]

woa sounds like a pretty damn hard crash

hopefully everything else is ok?

[molten dirge]

5/6 tools ripped wiring for canbus

[lucid kite]

ripp

[molten dirge]

Yeah idk how but I think wiring itself was weaken

Weak

Pass through structural panels and sc cable setup didn’t help probs

I think I had dock speed super high by accident

[blazing stump]

Yikess

[molten dirge]

hmm

urgh

[molten dirge]

room redesign time

so i can fit the printer once it's fixed

urgh guys for those who were following sorry for all the delays

i managed to print 1 pokeball before it failed but didn't record it cos i couldn't

the print looks pretty good 🙂

[lucid kite]

i wanna see some pictures!

[royal cairn]

no worries. that's just the scope creeps fault 🤣

[molten dirge]

ill c lmao

[molten dirge]

huge transition period in life more like unfortunately

finished masters degree, just got back from vacation, now starting a new job

[blazing stump]

Congrats!

[exotic hemlock]

I do feel like those may be a tad bit more important than a lorge printer

[molten dirge]

Thanks! super exciting period of life

also a full homelab upgrade/restructuring and IT stuff, and house cleaning

3D printer has taken more of a backseat, especially after the failure.

I've created a new skyscraper of 3D printers though so this will be very fun to show off soon 🙂

pics when I get home from work!

[molten dirge]

bumping to reopen thread

[lucid kite]

could just add some content to reopen the thread

[blazing stump]

:O

[blazing stump]

That’d be boring

[molten dirge]

lmao

ill post new content soon, i have motivation now

need to custom 3D print a case that's optiplex SFF form factor, but fits a miniITX board with bifurcation

[blazing stump]

pcie bifurcation my beloved

[fresh otter]

Came for the 2.4 Funssor gantry gang. Stayed for those double Zs! RIGID Zs!

[molten dirge]

funssor AWD gantry is actually pretty awesome

i was using SLM monolith meme until i decided screw it

i have the funssor might as well use it- and it was awesome

[molten dirge]

that is why I don't want to replace the g2zxl with the funssor CNC parts

those double Zs make it a nightmare to tension

until i get the rumoured deflection from pa12, I will not switch lmao

[fresh otter]

Will have to pick your brain sometime! Have dabbled in rigid Z and double z before never together tho

[molten dirge]

interesting

so a few updates

the whole optiplex powering this build stopped booting

wonder why

[molten dirge]

Hi peeps

it's been yet another two months since thel ast update.

I've finally broken my ender 6, so i'm back in the voron world after a long hiatus. fixing up V2.7390 first.

Froron will be back up and working in maybe a week or two, and getting cereal!

[molten dirge]

Resurrecting channel yet again. Once I have a working printer again I will resume work on Froron within 2 days

[sullen aurora]

can the screen rotate/tilt?? if so can you please share the link to the stl

[molten dirge]

it can tilt

fysetc touchscreen mount

[molten dirge]

Full teardown finished!

One working tool + gantry so far.

Gantry itself is also cooked. Trying to figure out a better way to manage the wires so i even have wires

wow, it still homes Z!

9 months later we're back and ready to goa gain

[blazing stump]

[molten dirge]

First goal is get rid of the old USB camera, wire the new one, and extend the AWD motor cables and restore XY motor movement

Then i can figure out sensorless homing and have a working monolith gantry again! (It also desperately needs to be racked)

ok i obtained some more motor cables. Goal for today will be to connect up all the motor cables and test stepper buzz / see if i can get a moving gantry. Bonus would be getting sensorless homing working on the Kraken.

These look like awful cables to solder…

@lucid kite any suggestions on lengthening motor cables

?

[lucid kite]

just soldering them on should do the trick

[molten dirge]

ugh, these are those really awful cables haha

[lucid kite]

they arent that bad .. assuming they are the wires for the stepper online motors? 😅

[molten dirge]

yeah. Last time i tried to solder them it just refused

i need to buy some helping hands or smth

[molten dirge]

logitech brio online! but no clue how to cable manage... am I supposed to pass the cable through the cable chain?

New HDMI screen online as well... but touch still seems to be dodgy.

motor wires have all been lengthened and passed through. Getting some PC-ABS parts done for the endstop mounts maybe

[royal cairn]

3s lipo charge cable extenders with jst-xh (available with silocone cables) or just extend with 4x1 pin microfits.

[molten dirge]

i had some sparE OMC ones so

omc motors** so i just extended them with those wires haha

regardless, touchscreen is now fixed. Just have to figure out a way to wire up the camera through the cable chain (it's getting quite full).

motor cables are routed, just need crimping. Anyone here using the OMC high temp motors and know the pinout?

For some weird reason they use yellow gray orange brown, i'd like to wire it up the standard way if possible.

[royal cairn]

i found some neat crimps a month ago. so i can crimp these kind of extensions and not have to solder 🙂

[molten dirge]

Also need to still figure out which port = which motor lol, ik i can configure it in klipper but would again want to follow "convention"

[molten dirge]

soldering is so much easier for me, but yeah ig it depends on the connector type

[royal cairn]

yea i don't mind soldering usually. but not suitable for everything.

[molten dirge]

but yeah regardless- anyone have a good USB A to C cable that i can run through a cable chain for the gantry camera? 😄

And AWD pinout would be great

for AWD sensorless, do you do diag on all 4 motors or just 2?

[royal cairn]

i did all 4, but for another reason.
you can home with front motor current set to 0.1A so only really need it for the rear motors

[molten dirge]

any clue guys?

tried switching middle pair to no avail

[stepper_y1]
step_pin: PB9
dir_pin: PB8
enable_pin: !PB7
rotation_distance: 40
microsteps: 32
full_steps_per_rotation: 200

connected S4

[tmc5160 stepper_y1]
cs_pin: PD3
interpolate: false
spi_software_sclk_pin: PC6
spi_software_mosi_pin: PC8
spi_software_miso_pin: PC7
run_current: 1.600
sense_resistor: 0.022
stealthchop_threshold: 0
driver_SGT: 0```

[clear pagoda]

What motor and toolboard

Oh it's stepper y

Are the motors all the same?

And just one acting up?

[molten dirge]

it's Y1. Only Y1 has been wired so far

4 motors, but i'm starting by wiring 1 at a time and testing each one with buzz, this is the first one. 🙁

[clear pagoda]

Okay send me a photo your current wiring don't change anything from this error

Your controller board

And motor model

[molten dirge]

Vs

[clear pagoda]

Give me a close up of Y1

Is that stock wire colour

[molten dirge]

yes

i did have to extend the cable and crimp it myeslf so no clue which pair is which

[clear pagoda]

Oh lawdy we need to know

Can you tell me which color corosponds to which

Because we need to know which color is your a pairs and which colors are you b pairs

Also do you know how to use an electro meter

Can you quickly check continuity on your extension cable before we proceed?

[molten dirge]

ehrm, these stepperonline OMCs come with stupid cables that go inside the motor, so i can't really test continuity

[clear pagoda]

To make sure electricity flows through it at an even electric majig

[molten dirge]

i'm positive i soldered these properly

[clear pagoda]

Okay dokey

Can you give me the full model

[molten dirge]

https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-high-temp-stepper-motor-55ncm-77-93oz-in-55mm-round-shaft-insulation-class-h-180c-17hs19-2504s-h-v1

i have a multimeter to check for pairs, just not sure how to?

[clear pagoda]

Is it kraken v1.1?

If you soldered it I'm not smart enough to guide you through checking tbh

[molten dirge]

1.0 i believe

[molten dirge]

cables are good

[clear pagoda]

Okay let me check some stuff

[molten dirge]

getting a short on gray to brown, yellow to orange.

[clear pagoda]

Can you tell me which colors go to which colors where you soldered

[molten dirge]

these are the same cables as stock, i had 4 spare motors so i just extended them.

[clear pagoda]

So all colors that plug in match the motor stock color scheme?

[molten dirge]

anyways, the solder connections are fine. I'm reading two different coil pairs at the end of the cable.

yes

gray-brown short, yellow-orange short

[clear pagoda]

Okay that's good, I recently did this with an Ethernet cable with 2 pairs per crimp 0/10 dont recommend

[molten dirge]

so i assume gray and brown have to be together, yellow and orange have to be together?

wait that makes sense why switching the middle pairs don't work then. Lol pin 1 and 4 are paired

[clear pagoda]

Did you heat shrink wrap it where you soldered?

[molten dirge]

ofc

WERE BACK IN BUSINESS!!

switching it to gray brown yellow orange pin order worked

Thanks for the help 🙂

[clear pagoda]

Wait you just got it?

I didn't do anything tho

Glad you figured it out

Coil a is grey brown coil b white orange?

[molten dirge]

yellow orange but ya

wait, so in klipper

is normally left motor stepper Y?

and right motor stepper X?

[clear pagoda]

Uhhh

Can't say I know

Is it going in wrong direction?

Set dir pin with !

To reverse it if it goes wrong way.

Also if your using tmc5160

Set the PWM to 55e3

[autotune_tmc stepper_x]
motor: ldo-42sth48-2804ah
tuning_goal: performance
pwm_freq_target: 55e3
;extra_hysteresis: 1
sgt: 1

Or even 44e3

For basically anything but 2209 it will default to 20e3

I find 55e3 works the best for me. Personally you can check it with shaketune tho

[molten dirge]

not using autotunes rn

i'll probably end up using it, thanks for the advice

these are 2504ah i think?

yeah all the motors are wired now 😄

and all passes stepper_buzz

Error evaluating 'gcode_macro _SENSORLESS_HOME:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'dict object' has no attribute 'tmc2160 stepper_x'
2:16 PM
Error evaluating 'gcode_macro _SENSORLESS_HOME:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'dict object' has no attribute 'tmc2160 stepper_x'

ehrm

[clear pagoda]

it was lowered for reasons of heat, i have a berseker vindr 5015 as active cooling on my setup :). don't know if you need it but if your pushing higher current its a nice safeguard.

i have a slight hunch thermal expansion may be in play with how i locked my gantry. might need to redo the rail and gantry squaring.

ngl lowest recommended smoothing on y ive seen yet

[molten dirge]

Welll shit.....

after working on the printer while heavily sleep deprived, we ended up forgetting some sense resistors in the config. Yay!

That's two motors fried.

Tomorrow is gantry off, upgrade G2ZXL with CNC g2ZXL, replace two broken motors, and redo all wiring day yet again. What a day!

[cold phoenix]

Never Voron when tired™️

[molten dirge]

After a lot of minor fixes including manual countersinking

The world’s probably only CNC G2ZXL.

Funssor sells it as a kit now but I asked them to design it in the first place lol

@hallow barn thoughts? Hopefully it doesn’t bother you… the design is barely modified and theybfucked up the kit so there’s no 2 covers for the bearing screw plate.

I had to countersink it further, high grit sand the anodization, and more but it actually works much smoother than the SLS PA12 I had before

[molten dirge]

all four are now ready

time to cable manage this shit better

[lucid kite]

pretty nice, where did you get them from?

[molten dirge]

commission from Funssor, now they sell it but the kit is awful

it's very finnagly

if you countersink just 0.1mm too deep, that's it

i got away with it by dribbling some superglue in the countersink then putting the screw in, to get the thickness back 😂

overall though much smoother and with higher power autotune now i can do 45mm/s force moves

which is not bad, considering tool changes would take forever otherwise

@lucid kite think i can power my 19v 90W Optiplex MIcro with 24v from the DC psu?

[molten dirge]

If it wasn’t for that god damn really

Relay

[lucid kite]

ugh no idea 😅

[lucid kite]

ah kk

im sticking with the stock z drive. im not fixing what isnt broken :D

[molten dirge]

I think these LRS psus need to go

if i can just reposition that god damn relay, I'd have more than enough space to mount the optiplex microi n there

and the cable management would look so good

[molten dirge]

Holy cursed

[molten dirge]

Improved wiring

Only thing left is usb C for camera, and stepper motor cat6A

Did a lot for one day though.

Wow. Surprisingly everything still works

just need to tape down the fucking PC and i'm done for the night

[molten dirge]

@burnt sinew hey, we're finally back in business.

I just replaced the two fried motors, now working on extension cables for all the steppers. The gantry mounting is taking a while, I got some PC-ABS parts ordered for it and they will arrive in a few days. Also need to rotate one of the motors again

[molten dirge]

Gantry is back on folks!

3/4 z drives are fully connected. One is missing the last belt holding clip.. sigh

all four motors have been tested, 2 failed as I expected, the other 2 r ok

[molten dirge]

Belt on with back panel on. Was a nightmare but less than taking the panel off again

[molten dirge]

Gantry is now mounted, racked, tightened, tensioned!

Moves very smoothly without binding, took forever.

still missing a belt clip

Time to work on extending the motor wires and passing them through again.

@frail adder Do you think cat6A shielded wires would work as motor cables? split them so i have one on each side?

they're in-wall so thicker conductor than regular cat6A, just wonder if they can go in the cable chain and be fine.

[frail adder]

Solid core wires + vibrations = broken wires + sadness

[molten dirge]

well, darn.

time to use regular silicone wires ig

Do you know if motor wires have to be twisted around each other

[frail adder]

They do not.

[molten dirge]

Awesome. Goal is to have each motor be termianted with a JST XH, then connect it to the cable chain cables directly

[violet oasis]

i hope you mean de-racked? 😆

[frail adder]

I extended my motor wires with Microfit 2+2 pin. Worked great.

So pretty

[molten dirge]

any ideas on what i should use for

wiring the usb c camera in the gantry lol

might just put a USB C cable through the cable chain

[frail adder]

Get a usb c breakout board and make your own cable with ptfe wires. You will thank yourself later.

[violet oasis]

i doubt that'd last long in a cable chain

fep/ptfe wiring works well in cable chains

or igus chainflex, if you wanna be gucci

[molten dirge]

hmm, think i'm gonna fry my camera if i use a non-compliant cable and it eventually breaks?

actually wiring a proper USB C is incredibly annoying

[frail adder]

Use a usb c breakout board like I said. It’s just 4 wires. How can you possibly mess that up?

[molten dirge]

its not a 4 wire USB C, if it was that would be easy

[frail adder]

That’s literally a usb cable is…

[molten dirge]

i've tried A to C cables, it does not work at all due to bandwidth negotiation

[frail adder]

The ends do the magic. Lol

[molten dirge]

USB C is up to 24 pins, the only cables i've tested that work are at least 12 pin

the camera refuses to run off of usb 2 or 3.0, only usb 3.1 sigh

i think i might just drill a hole on the plate on the bottom surface of the voron, and just route the wire through there

lol

[frail adder]

The port itself has that many pins. The cable is only 4 wires. I’ve disassembled some random cables before and found just a usb c breakout board in them. Lmao.

[molten dirge]

no cable chain, just drags out whenever it needs more

[molten dirge]

i wish. the camera is specced for 24 pin cables (15-16 wire breakout)

maybe i should just downgrade the camera 😂

why doesn't anyone sell ptfe usb c cables

[frail adder]

Did you actually open the cable to find 24 wires inside?

[molten dirge]

15 wires, yes

the first thing i thought of was making my own cable, it's not feasible 😂

[frail adder]

https://a.co/d/geIuDhU

This is all that’s been inside some of the cables I’ve opened.

[molten dirge]

yeah that's usb 2.0 spec

[frail adder]

🤷 . They’ve worked just fine to me. I’ve never checked what speeds they run since well. It’s not likely to matter to anything I do.

[molten dirge]

average audiophile

@frail adder i'll give 4 pin breakout another go, but the camera itself is rated for up to 10Gbps transfers, so doubt it'll work

[frail adder]

What camera is it? Never seen a camera need that much bandwidth…

[molten dirge]

one that should not be in a 3D printer 😂

like $500 or smth

[frail adder]

And to be fair. I mostly just use 1080p cheap cameras. Lol. Even my webcam on the pc is only 1080p

The one in the printer is like a $20 camera off Amazon. Lol

[molten dirge]

i think ill just temporarily use the usb c cable

and when it eventually breaks i'll make the breakout 24 pin if i must

[frail adder]

Heh. It’s $19. https://a.co/d/i5ny40L

@molten dirge In case you decide to change cameras later on for whatever reason. Simple camera above (this is from the small preview window in mainsail):

[molten dirge]

this printer has been an exercise in overkill from the start

[frail adder]

Mine too. Except I'm using none of the overkill cause I did it for reliability. Lol

[molten dirge]

Any advice on the wiring front

How should I get the left motor wires into the cable chain

[hazy flame]

Your belts don’t look right

Did you add a spacer behind the shuttle?

I could just be blind

[molten dirge]

no the monolith belts are typically inverted, so to be able to clamp it down i just sent it in front of the shuttle then behind. That means there's a small offset but it's not too big of a deal

one day i'll switch to inverted clamps

[molten dirge]

One motor wired. Am going to them one at a time so I know exactly which motor is which

so the current motor to be wired is x1.

will be going on S3, and will need to configure properly including correct direction lol

[molten dirge]

sigh one motor at a time is gonna take so long.. but anyways we have X1 wired

and stepper_buzz working

[lucid kite]

@molten dirge lets continue here but move the carriage to almost one xy joint and take a picture from up top

your gonna notice that the belt aint aligned perfectly

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite nah you're so right, it's 6am here mb

this image helped me understand haha

[lucid kite]

👍

there is also a mod where the xy joint themselfs is modified for your method to work

but that requires getting new xy joint parts

[molten dirge]

yeah but it's for 3dp not sheet metal

i don't think the sheet metal mod exists, granted all you'd need to do is space out the holes by 2mm extra

[lucid kite]

there is also a sheet metal one out there

[molten dirge]

there is?

https://github.com/Monolith3D/Monolith_Gantry/tree/main/UserMods/dderg/XY Joints compatible with Fysetc CNC Stealthchanger Shuttle/STEP

this is all i know of

[lucid kite]

#1315683810112966707 message

[molten dirge]

no access

[lucid kite]

in the Armachir Heavy Industries Discord

[molten dirge]

Ahh

[molten dirge]

i mean i assume all they did is move the pulley mounts 2mm further right

[lucid kite]

yea

[molten dirge]

yeah i can probably design that myself if i wanted to, but this seems like a strictly superior solution. Thank you! Been out of the loop for too long

😄

[lucid kite]

and my solution also works with monolith cnc if your interested in that :D

[molten dirge]

lets see how much this will be in pcbway, printing 2-3

[molten dirge]

i'm v happy with my sheet metal, so won't be moving to CNC anytime soon lol

but yeah this is awesome. Thanks

[molten dirge]

the only cursed part of this solution is

it presses on the teeth portion of the belts with a flat thing

i might design some SLM parts that specifically handle that lol

[lucid kite]

the part that actually holds the belt in place does it correctly

[molten dirge]

yeah just talking about that part

[lucid kite]

the metal plate is just to hold the belt back a bit

[molten dirge]

it's not a big deal at all

yeah it's already enough to clamp it down using teh shuttle itself

[lucid kite]

dont need to fully tighten it either

you could not use the metal plate entirely and it work just as well

would just be harder to keep the belts managed

[molten dirge]

did you print yours with alu or steel?

it'd be pretty funny if i went with titanium.

[lucid kite]

doesnt matter really

mine is alu

[molten dirge]

there's 2 types?

[lucid kite]

yea but you want this one

[molten dirge]

Awesome, yeah that's well designed asf

i still have a while to finish up the motion system and all the toolheads, so this will probably arrive in time

[lucid kite]

typical monolith design

[molten dirge]

Titanium would be 64$

that's pretty crazy

I don't think i should get it

@frail adder hey, do you still have the STL for your goliath heat shields?

[lucid kite]

yeaaaa alu is good enough

[molten dirge]

UGH

wow that's painful.

[frail adder]

It’s not mine. Lol. https://www.printables.com/model/1360875-goliath-heatshield-v2

[molten dirge]

yup found it, sorry for the ping

do you have any extras perchance 😂

[frail adder]

I dunno what site that is but go with JLC3DP. They are only $8 each.

[frail adder]

No. Only ordered one.

[molten dirge]

it's pcbway, i prefer them bec they're 2x faster than jlc for me

in3dtec if i didn't care about time

[frail adder]

It’s only 5 days from order to delivery at my door for SLM from JLC3DP for me.

[molten dirge]

it took 17 days last time for me lol

[violet oasis]

if it was a choice between $104 and $8, i know which provider i'd choose, no matter how long it took 😆

[molten dirge]

quantity 10

down to 6: $64

[frail adder]

What was your shipping choice? And to the US or Korea? You have both in your roles right now.

[molten dirge]

US

it may be UPS that's bad tho

[frail adder]

Did you use DHL DDP? Cause that’s the fastest option.

UPS DDP is pretty quick only adding one day for me.

[molten dirge]

ehrm yeah

[violet oasis]

careful, don't dox yourself 😉

[molten dirge]

whoops

good point

wow in3dtech is the cheapest for sure

[lucid kite]

yea they are dirt cheap

[molten dirge]

Alright, that's 2 steppers done!

just 2 more to go. Passing these wires through the chain is a nightmare

[lucid kite]

yea ive ditched chains alltogether

piano wires works just as well

[molten dirge]

smart

and honestly probably less damaging than the chain

i was thinking i might just zip tie the cables to outside of the chain 😂

[lucid kite]

Dont

At that point just go with piano wires

[molten dirge]

GANTRY IS MOVING

IN THE CORRECT DIRECTIONS!!!

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite @frail adder @burnt sinew a momentous occasion. (Belts gotta come off again pretty soon though 😂)

[burnt sinew]

Movement

[molten dirge]

sorry i meant to show the homing video but

it just failed

anyway we be homing!

[steep yew]

I'd park your boat before taking videos of the printer

[molten dirge]

man i haven't slept in 18 hours

my hands are shaky cos of caffeine 😂

[burnt sinew]

You should train your body to be in bed by 9PM and up by 4AM.

[molten dirge]

impossible

[burnt sinew]

"Night Crew" in online spaces is bad for you

[frail adder]

I uh. I uh aim for 2pm and 10pm. Lol.

[burnt sinew]

Thats different. LOL

[worn bolt]

Puppy is training me to be in bed at 9, up at midnight, 3, and 6

[molten dirge]

You're a Xiar after my own heart

[lucid kite]

that be litteraly impossible for me lol

im very much NOT a morning person

[burnt sinew]

"train"

[hazy flame]

Btw that offset is actually a pretty big deal

You might want to redo that setup

Maybe do what Jakob did

Or do the monolith stealthchanger xy joints

[hazy flame]

I have an slm shuttle that I still need to print but I am not releasing it until I have done sufficient testing. I intend on giving it to Wayne so he can add it to the GitHub

[hazy flame]

I can do the 4am part easily but I can’t fall asleep or stay asleep very easily.

[molten dirge]

already figured it out with jakob

[molten dirge]

hmm

qgl is not looking good yet

Getting a weird sound at one of the probe points, then qgl gets thrown off

i wonder whats happening? Z binding?

gantry not racked properly? who knows

damn @lucid kite

ican get another ~10mm of Z out if i flip the motors so they're below the gantry not above

is it worth the pain and suffering

[lucid kite]

i doubt it

[molten dirge]

i can reach the docks

thats all that matters right

[lucid kite]

are the z screws loose?

cause on first qgl you should have the z joints loose then qgl and then tighten

[molten dirge]

what Z screws? do you mean the rail mounts?

[molten dirge]

oh that explains a lot

yeah i'll give that a go then

do you mean the 8 m3 screws for double Z, or the m5 that mounts the z joints to the gantry?

I'm using the hybrid Z joints

[lucid kite]

the 16 m3 screws holidng the z joints to the z rails

[molten dirge]

awesome

[lucid kite]

they should all be loose

[molten dirge]

will give that a go soon

[lucid kite]

then qgl and then tighten

[molten dirge]

its been a while so i forgot basics teps lol

[lucid kite]

ive noticed

[molten dirge]

time to calibrate X Y length first

[molten dirge]

interesting

just discovered my modular docks's magnet position is far too inwards

looks like it might be like 2mm off

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite ripped 2 modular dock bases out of the sides, RIP

other than that... qgl still fails with all 32 screws loose, and gantry does not sound happy. Might need to be retensioned completely

[lucid kite]

🤔 how

[molten dirge]

i'm sure z motor labeling is right

[molten dirge]

had carto mode kte-easy installed, so it thought t0 was not on yet

so by trying to do t0 it said nuh uh and crashed the tool into the dock bases

[molten dirge]

it ripped out the m3 heatset inserts, really hoping i can fix it

[lucid kite]

Have you done the v2 startup check where you test ever motor if its correct?

[molten dirge]

yup

the gantry itself is being really loud and bad

so i'm assuming there's something really wrong with the gantry movement

might eventually take off the belts & replace the linear rails honestly

the Y movement is being weird, so i'm assuming bad racking as well and not even Z tension

[molten dirge]

yup ok every motor is correct, doubule checked

ill first work on fixing the docks and getting all the tools done and mounted

then we can figure out the gantry issues later

[molten dirge]

ok peeps

now that i have confirmation the gantry itself does work & the motors are fine, i think i'm actually gonna go ahead and rebuild the whole gantry lol

i want to replace the bearings with Berserker ceramics & upgrade the Y linear rails to west3D berserkers, it needs to be re-racked anyways

removing all the stepper wiring will be a bit of a pain, i think i'll try to disconnect the entire cable chain and stepper wiring then do it that way

[lucid kite]

But why berserker when you could have Airtacs

But i doubt that whatever problem you are having is beeing solved by throwing money at the problem

[molten dirge]

well the gantry itself isn't very smooth when unbolting everything

i already seem to have the rails actually, so that's an easy replace

the bearings are shitty Amazon quality and will not handle decent chamber temps for sure

and i'm certain there are racking problems I have to resolve, so a full gantry rebuild does not sound that bad

esp when i already have to retension the belts lol

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite

not even QGLed

it's finally happening

and the Z is moving that fast on G2ZXL

😂

48V Z on CNC G2ZXL, seems to be working great.

(though imagine if my qgl is not working cos of the cnc g2zxl, that'd be funny)

[cold phoenix]

What motor are you using??

[molten dirge]

the standard g2zxl motors

cos it's hard to find any that have the correct gears on the end of them lol

[violet oasis]

ldo-42sth40-1684ac(rss9t)

[molten dirge]

Mark, do you know if there's any upgrades for that motor actually?

[violet oasis]

no idea, sorry

[molten dirge]

Darn. I wish i could just make the shaft on my own

i'm running them at 1A+ rn and they do get a little hot

[cold phoenix]

You can run these at 48v?? I thought they were limited to 24

[violet oasis]

stepper motors don't really care, it's the stepper motor driver that does

[violet oasis]

oooof, that is a little high, 0.8 is recommended

[molten dirge]

yeah but i have them on CNC parts so they can run a little hotter than normal

g2zxl and toolchanger was never a good combo, i gotta run the motors hot for the fast Z

[violet oasis]

apparently, they have a temperature rating of 130℃

[molten dirge]

that's max insulation temperature, not necessarily operation temperature

but yeah i would love to do 1.2A but i think that's really pushing the limits 😂

[violet oasis]

yeah, sorry, i meant max

[molten dirge]

yeah if you go over 130C thei nsulation would start to melt away

likely other things will fail below 130c

[molten dirge]

finally pushed my usermod to draftshift design for rapidburner goliath docks

[molten dirge]

Time to work on tool 1! It's mostly functional except it's missing the ebb36 cooling fan & the ecas filament sensor is wired to the wrong pin.

[royal cairn]

yea. a few people have tried it. never with success.

2804ah didn't work either.

2504ah on z seems to be the meta still.

[molten dirge]

well it's working for me rn 😂

what do you mean by not working?

[royal cairn]

galileo didn't go fast, and 2804 had accuracy issues and weirdness.
meanwhile all the ones using 2504 have had little issues, and even goes fast on 24v

[molten dirge]

i am doing g2zxl rn and its going fast enough**

it's not the fastest, but with performance mode & CNC G2ZXL, i can drive them at a good enough speed

shiet, i don't think i'm fixing this

[royal cairn]

if you're satisfied with it thats all that matters 🙂 should have very accurate z with it, which is nice

[molten dirge]

yeee

[royal cairn]

can only see blur, did you rip an smd component?

[molten dirge]

damn, anyone know where the optotap schematic / pcb image is?

discord compression is amazing, but yeah, the shuttle basically drove itself into the optotap pcb and carved a nice section there

unclear what actually used to live there, if I can see i could fix it

[burnt sinew]

Just pull one from another toolhead?

[molten dirge]

might've fixed ita ctually

seems like it might've just been 2 pins and the solder got smooshed up

damn, it is!

the solder mask wasn't even scratched, it was just the solder got smooshed into a thin line then bridged

lets see if it worsk

lmfao

0.5 second fix once the soldering iron heated up @royal cairn

we're so back

[molten dirge]

too small for my lasik eyes to see

😂

also didn't want to risk damaging any cables, tired of soldering for tdy

but anyways, it was an easy fix surprisingly, v happy

[molten dirge]

@burnt sinew thanks for helping with the QGL! i think the gantry does still have to come out and get re-done though

it's off, very off

the Y axis is constantly screaming during QGL

[burnt sinew]

NP!

[molten dirge]

but yeah this has been the absolute best yet so far

so thank you 😄

once the gantry becomes less weird, i can probably tune down sensorless homing to a good value again

then that should help with dock tuning 😂

[royal cairn]

with sensorless, to improve accurate homing, i run home xyz, then qgl, then another home xyz. because before qgl it might be all kinds of angled and throw x or y off by 0.1mm or worse.

i do that even on dualrigidz.

[molten dirge]

smart

LOL

that's a view i don't want to see

[royal cairn]

i'm all kinds of disorientated 😅 is the printer on it's side? or what?

[molten dirge]

much better

[molten dirge]

haha ih ad to tilt the printer down to the side so i could work on the e-bay

and in the process the tools fell off so they were hanging

[royal cairn]

ah, no magdock?

[molten dirge]

yes magdock, but too heavy tools

i'm holding them on with m3 screws -> magnets

[royal cairn]

gotsta put some moar mags in then 😂

[molten dirge]

so it doesn't have the best holding power

i'd love to, do you know of 5mm od 3mm id 5-6mm length n52 magnets?

i found some but are $11 each and min order = 15 but only have 10 available so can't buy

😂

[royal cairn]

two stacked 5x3 mags?

[molten dirge]

they need to be tube magnets

😂

[molten dirge]

finally hard-mounted the rear back panel. 36 screws, 1 screw lost its t-nut, i don't think i give a crap

shame the gantry's coming back out lol

but the bearing upgrades & linear rail upgrades should be worth the trouble.

[frail adder]

You will when you run input shaping.

[molten dirge]

i'd rather take the screw out 😂

36 screws man

to hold on 1 panel lol

[frail adder]

You’ll need to find the t nut in the frame. It will be vibrate and show up on the graphs. Lol

[molten dirge]

are you fr

💀

[molten dirge]

aight peeps, we're up to 3 fully functional tools out of 6! 2 more to repair, 1 more to make from scratch.

[molten dirge]

also i take back my opinion on WWG2 dualFS. I'm using Thor's original version, not the one with improved tolerances, and it's SLS PA12 so by default the tolerances are tight but good.

The Dual FS sensors in the 3 tools i've repaired so far are working perfectly as intended

I've got some more Omron D2F sensors and some spacers coming for the rest of the tools, so probably will have t3, t4 working well sometime soon

building up t6 is scary though, so i'm pushing it off lol.

[molten dirge]

my room has started to trip breakers. I'm v ery confused, because the printers weren't even holding motor position.

I mean there is a suspicious server rack placed right there but

i'm just surprised it's started just today, so wondering what changed

[molten dirge]

interesting

@lucid kite

my monolith metal spacer parts are 5.2mm not 5mm

pissing me off rn

i doubt i can just grind them down to 5mm and keep it flat.

never trust sendcutsend when they claim 0.25"..

[frail adder]

0.25in is 6.35mm…

[hazy flame]

How much does your rack pull? My llm server doesn’t pull much but it is just running a 7745 and 2x a6000s as well as 512gb of ecc ddr5

I assume since you are studying machine learning you have a way fancier setup

MIT is pretty hard to get into for that kind of stuff for an undergrad

I would have to assume that you are on a 15a breaker and your server is pulling most of that running full power especially if you are running something inefficient like a bunch of 48gb 4090s

[molten dirge]

sorry i meant 2.5mm

lol idk my brain shut down

but yeah in short, they sent 2.6mm material instead of 2.5mm

[molten dirge]

1TB DDR4. 18x 3.5" drives, some 20TB, some 22TB SATA
2x epyc 7532, then my gaming PC in it as well

[frail adder]

How’d you get 2.5mm? I don’t even see that as an option.

[molten dirge]

sendcutsend alu 5052 has a 0.1" 2.5mm option

[frail adder]

Ah. I see it now. You sure it’s not just a lip on the edge of the part and it needs sanding?

[molten dirge]

Yup.

I already tumbled & sandblasted these myself. 100% deburred

i might just replace them with 100% infill printed spacers. After all, the main load is handled by the 30mm alu spacers rather than the printed spacers lol.

5mm steel or alu is really hard to source here, and if i want to cut them in person i'd have to do steel as the fablight I have access to can't do alu over 3/16"

ok t3 and t4 are now connected, they both have major issues unfortunately

t3 so far has both faulty filament sensors, a really hard to use extruder, and a broken hotend fan (the ebb36 cooling fan is also on the hotend fan and that seems to be working though)

so some wiring gremlins to attack on t3 first

one of the part cooling fans on t4 are not functional

both runout sensors on t4 are not functional as well it seems

also i should finish building t5 before the gantry parts come and wire it all up.

[molten dirge]

ok so todo:

T3:

Fix hotend fan
Fix extruder being stiff
Fix all runout sensors not working

T4:
Fix part cooling fan
All runout sensors not working
Extruder stiff

T5:

BUILD!

For gantry, print 100% infill spacers, use the printed alignment spacers to help w gantry alignment, replace all bearings with West3D Berserkers once they arrive, and test every stepper to make sure they sound normal.

Make sure all Z belts are same length, feed them into g2zxl first then hold gantry in place while assembling

[molten dirge]

Once these are complete I can put the side panels on, tune the dock positions again, and I’m golden!

[molten dirge]

how many more temp sensors can i get

[lucid kite]

your missing at least one more chamber temp sensor

[frail adder]

Infinite as long as you have ports.

[violet oasis]

need a therm^2

[lucid kite]

just a fyi but provok3d isnt currently filling any orders. boxxy is kinda mia at the moment 😅

[violet oasis]

oh, i wasn't aware

[lucid kite]

but yea Therm2 is great .. kinda sad that boxxy was the only source for it

[violet oasis]

this instead 😉

[lucid kite]

ah, awesome!

wasnt aware of that site

[violet oasis]

you are now 😉

[hazy flame]

I was able to snag one along with 2 dragon dinghys for this build before provok3d died

[hazy flame]

What are the stepper temps for? Are those the drivers?

[frail adder]

Those are tmc2240 driver temps.

[hazy flame]

Ahh ok those are what I am using for my extruders

[frail adder]

Lots use em for other motors too. Plus you can go to 36v with them.

[hazy flame]

I have no idea how I came in possession of them but they were installed in a spare octopus that I had

So that is going to be my extruder mcu

[lucid kite]

Like Xiar said yea tmc2240 temps

[hazy flame]

why are you using tmc 2240s?

[lucid kite]

Cause they are quite and plenty fast

[molten dirge]

pain

i live in Cambridge, which is RIGHT NEXT to boston.

Why the heck did the package move all the way to Chelsea??

[molten dirge]

so upsetting how tmc2160s don't have them lol

weird

T2 has a slight problem while docking

[violet oasis]

these are all very uk names, we have chelsea, boston and cambridge too 😆

[molten dirge]

😂

[frail adder]

5160* and yes

[molten dirge]

yeah u right

[molten dirge]

damn

i'm out of omron d2fs

and t3 is almost fully fixed except the cowl itself is cracked (superglue time!) and the d2f for the ECAS sensor is faulty, even though the switch still works

SIGH

rip T3

T4 and rest of T3 tmr

[molten dirge]

Also just noticed i'm missing 1 printed part for T5. PAIN

I exclusively run SLS PA12 on this printer for tools, so it'll be so ugly if i get ONE PC-ABS part printed for the tool sigh

[cold phoenix]

I had a FedEx package get rerouted from AZ to FL as Customs Clearance and then spent 2 weeks in the warehouse across the street from me 🙃

[molten dirge]

New carto here, but need some custom carto mounts for fysetc. Tried N3MI's, but not ideal at all fr my usecase

so switching to @gentle bay's design, and just drilling another hole / cable gland for the rear panel

and calling it good lol

also @frail adder new smco magnets are here

didn't shatter any yet surprisingly, 4 in

[molten dirge]

remind me to flip the screen upside down next time i wojrk on the printer

also remind me to never use acryllic weld-on indoors

[violet oasis]

don't forget to flip the screen upside down next time you wojrk on the printer 😆

[molten dirge]

the fumes are making me dizzy

[molten dirge]

😂 thanks

also dw i have ventilation going now

[violet oasis]

never use acryllic weld-on indoors 😆

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite do you know if it's ok to hot plug ebb36s while the printer is powered on, klipper off?

the sb2209 with its front plate wasn't

but i fail to see how the ebb36 could be damaged

[violet oasis]

i don't trust hot-plugging anything, i've been burnt in the past, figuratively, not literally 😆

[lucid kite]

NO

Just assume that nothing on your printer is hotplugable

[molten dirge]

pain

I'm used to PC and server gear

i had some where i could even hot plug CPUs and PCIE cards

T4:
Fix part cooling fan
All runout sensors not working
Extruder stiff

T5:

BUILD!
For gantry, print 100% infill spacers, use the printed alignment spacers to help w gantry alignment, replace all bearings with West3D Berserkers once they arrive, and test every stepper to make sure they sound normal.

Make sure all Z belts are same length, feed them into g2zxl first then hold gantry in place while assembling

Replace the backpack cover
Replace bottom panel
Add carto mount & umbilical point
Redo AC wiring with new crimps & power cord wiring, correct colors
extend camera wiring with USB C extender

[molten dirge]

tool 4 has a dead fan.

Everything else with t4 has been fixed

t4 and t5 are halted until i can get new GDSTIME 12K RPM 24v 0.1A fans from west3d

Old magnets from mandala mag bed being used to help secure custom acryllic trays in place.

New ones are SMCO for less carto shenanigans

4 tools online

[molten dirge]

picked up fans in garage sale! Hopefully can grab it sometime soon

on other note- the bearings from west3D should be arriving today 😮

[molten dirge]

@lucid kite you still think i don't need to throw money at the gantry? 😂

granted this is measured from the ebb36, not the carto

cos no carto moutned yet

And the ebb36 mount is probably a little loose...

And I think I have a faulty stepper too actually. One of the ones I didn't end up replacing last time

[lucid kite]

Thats pretty good for a toolchanger

[molten dirge]

5k accel on monolith tho?

Y graphs are absolutely horrendous btw 😂

as expected cos the Y rail was binding

[violet oasis]

might be an idea to remove or strikethu your #garage_sale message ad, so you don't get pointless dm's

[molten dirge]

This printer looks so good from the bottom with ACM

The side panels will ruin the aesthetic

The gunmetal gray is so nice

[hazy flame]

Yeah that is not ideal. You can do better

I think you will be able to see 12-15k once you get everything dialed

Best I have seen is 25-30k but that is with sketchy yavoth setups without the umbilical attached

Btw, make sure you run input shaper without the umbilical flat spring attached

[lucid kite]

for a fixed toolhead printer is .. not great to say the least. but alright for a toolchanger ig

[molten dirge]

yeah but others on draftshift are getting 15k+ rec

i probably have a loose thb & bad preload settings for the backplate

[molten dirge]

More Alu spacers made!

need to get more neoprene SHEET insulation for each of the side panels though

and the other side of the spacers need also less-thick insulation

*hard

lower durometer

or maybe not? there's more than enough side panel clearance with these alone, so maybe i just need one on the sheet and that's it?

who knows lol

[burnt sinew]

We need to work on your sleep schedule

[molten dirge]

impossible

not my fault, my family members play league till late and get upset and start raging

[burnt sinew]

😆

[molten dirge]

😂

anyways, i'm debating whether to attach the side panels now or not

the gantry has to come out, so it's probably better if i don't. But I'd want to at least put the stealthmax area side panels on?

[burnt sinew]

Each of my panels on the new machine has 20 bolts. Those things are not going on until the very end. 😂

[molten dirge]

💀

[burnt sinew]

Yeah but thing is taller than some adults I know

[molten dirge]

Also lmao there's like less than 1mm clearance between the back of the gantry & the rear panel + insulation, that's crazy

[molten dirge]

the panels or the machine?

[burnt sinew]

The machine

[molten dirge]

i should've just gotten 3 huge panels instead of 6 smaller voron-sized panels ngl

And that's cool! sendp ics

[burnt sinew]

The 1mm is why I did 2040

[molten dirge]

it's crazy that ur machine is taller than mine 😂

i still haven't been able to figure out

how to do the filament drybox with the solid state element yet

[burnt sinew]

No, mine isn’t taller. I was talking about a very short woman.

[molten dirge]

ah lmao

i think mine is over a meter tall now

also DAMN black ACM looks so good

honestly thinking of getting some super thin black ACM toppers for the structural panels

[lucid kite]

yea true and afaik only one line should show a peak not both of them

might be worth running IS with no toolhead at all (if thats even possible) to see if its the gantry or the toolchanging mechanism

[molten dirge]

i will once i get my carto mounted 😉

in like a week

[molten dirge]

Powder coat worked a lot better on this panel!

[burnt sinew]

@molten dirge Made me think of you

[molten dirge]

agree

[molten dirge]

in3dtec has delivered, all in titanium

@burnt sinew since ur going monolith as well lemme know and ill c if i can ship one to u

Getting two was the same price as one lol

[molten dirge]

I

That’s a lot of money right there

i didn't know mobil xhp222 was blue lol

[burnt sinew]

Oh, you got spacers made! Yeah, I will purchase one from ya.

[molten dirge]

got it for $24 for both, will take $10 + shipping? Ignoring DDP fees and stuff i had to pay, cos that wouldn't be fair

holy it's dropping to -15C again in Boston today

[burnt sinew]

Yeah, I will ping you after the weekend and get everything arranged.

[molten dirge]

most ppl get it in stainless steel

I got mine in titanium bec i was getting everything else in titanium anyways 😂

so technically like a gram lighter, you're welcome

[burnt sinew]

LOL. for now, back to work.

[molten dirge]

@burnt sinew they sent me the wrong one.. I had to modify the order to remove 1 of them and replace with both of the same version

i don't think you want it anymore

[burnt sinew]

No worries. Back to the original plan

[lucid kite]

Could just dremel it of

[molten dirge]

yeah but would not be comfortable selling that lol.

[burnt sinew]

Shit, I am not worried about that. LOL

[molten dirge]

if you want it ill send it to you at shipping cost

[frail adder]

What am I not seeing? Cause I see nothing wrong…

[molten dirge]

idk if that printer is meant to be a stealthchanger or not, but this one won't be stealthchanger compatible

[molten dirge]

the one i wanted was 2x of the simple belt spacers so it's compatible with everything else

they gave me 1 of each, the other one has ridges there so it's not compatible with everything.

you can in theory grind it away, i could slap it on a mill using an mgn12 rail carriage too

[burnt sinew]

I was just planning on using a piece of 2mm stock and drilling some holes in it after cutting to size

[molten dirge]

no stealthchanger?

if so ill still send it over at shipping cost

[burnt sinew]

Yes stealthchanger

[molten dirge]

ah

you can try grinding this off if you want

[burnt sinew]

yep. WIll ping ya monday

[molten dirge]

chat the fans are here!! time to finish my 5th tool :"D

12k rpm part cooling fans are hard to find other than paying insane prices on DDP shipping on Ali

[hazy flame]

You should get the 120k rpm fans

[molten dirge]

i live in the same room asm y printer

big no thanks

@frail adder did you find that hula feet actually helped?

with input shaper?

i just don't understand why it would do so, when it's not coupling the printer & lowering resonant frequency

[hazy flame]

I hope you have some good filtration

[molten dirge]

i do

[molten dirge]

Repacking complete

[frail adder]

Help the table my printer sits on to not wobble itself to death? Yes. Help IS graphs. No change.

[molten dirge]

@frail adder was it you who helped extend the clicky clack doors by 15mm or so?

either way, a year later i've mounted them and they look funny but work great

[frail adder]

Negative

[molten dirge]

might've been Mikey then

mb for ping!

but yeah we have working doors now that won't interfere with structural panels 😄

[royal cairn]

i should start adding my alias in the filenames when i remix dtuff 😝

[molten dirge]

fr

[molten dirge]

top right side panel is on!!!

working well with the clicky clacky door :"D

[molten dirge]

FIVE TOOLS ONLINE!

[molten dirge]

@frail adder long shot, but do you remember if goliath is M2.5 for hotend mounting, and for rapidburner was it M2.5x6? Can't find these screws for the life of me and i was trying to disassemble a tool to find out but all the wiring would have to be cut

also could you link the fiberglass sock you used?

[frail adder]

No clue.

[frail adder]

I’m 90% sure the one I’m using isn’t real fiberglass. It discolors quite quickly.

[molten dirge]

is it just a 10mm fiberglass sock? No thickness requirement?

@frail adder https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Insulation-Protector-9-8Ft-10mm-Fiberglass/dp/B0DZXMMVDP/

wtf... so i was right and the goliath wiring IS indeed fiberglass

why the heck would they use fiberglass insulation on the goliath wiring lol

(if it was 10mm we could use it lol)

anyway i assume smth like this owuld work

[violet oasis]

to protect the wiring from heat

[molten dirge]

it's probably exposed to max 100c

[violet oasis]

but the hotend itself can reach crazy high temps ~ 500℃

[molten dirge]

yeah, but that's the nichrome portion

goliath uses fiberglass insulation on the heater wires that's just normal copper

[violet oasis]

i'm just speculating, i have no evidence of why they use it

[molten dirge]

yeah i'm just complaining cos i got a nasty skin reaction to it cos i thought it was a normal wiring loom

dunno how i was fine a year ago making these tools

[frail adder]

I am using a UXCELL white one but it’s discoloring pretty quick. Probably ask @hasty raft

[violet oasis]

ouch 😟

[molten dirge]

probably a bad binder then

shouldn't affect performance really

but good to know regardless, t6 is going to have the titanium heat shield installed :d

[molten dirge]

T6 parts. Missing misc parts

Thinking of upgrading the toolboard mount and redo the wiring

5 fully functional tools

Docks not calibrated yet, will have to redo anyways with carto as I’d be homing without a tool

[hazy flame]

6 chubes when?

[molten dirge]

who needs 6 chubes when I got 6 goliaths

[lucid kite]

Id be happy with only 5 chubeC

[hazy flame]

https://tenor.com/view/spongebob-patrick-patrick-star-broke-poor-gif-14729256

[molten dirge]

i have titanium heat shields on these

i'd say that's pretty balling

[molten dirge]

ok TODO:

replace Camera USB C superspeed cable with ultra flexible Anker (more flexible than my friggin stepper cables, holy)
Drill new pg7 gland hole for Carto umbilical, or mount on gantry. Probably will test former, then move to latter if needed.
Replace Y Rails on gantry with West3D Berserker 400mms
Replace all bearings with repacked Berserkers
Flip display so it's on the correct orientation
Flip motors so they're on the bottom, not the top
Replace current X, y1 motors as they're from before when I forgot sense_resistors in config
Replace X beam with carbonara, add monolith titanium belt adapter

Clean up stepper wiring so it's more modular
Reinstall gantry with the alignment spacers, will be a huge hassle for Z mounting but gotta do what I gotta do for perfect qgl
Disassemble CNC G2ZXL, make sure all grubs are tight, align everything well again & ensure all Z belts are same length
Assemble T6
Re-assemble all tools with Titanium goliath heat shield + fiberglass heat sock
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position
Install Sexball Probe
Install cartographer mount, add USB expander in canbus backpack, install carto software, move to carto homing toolless setup
Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Mount final 2 side panels
Clean up electronics bay AC wiring, maybe replace PSUs with smaller Meanwells and mount them vertically on a single DIN rail?
replace all toolboard mounting boards with new longer ones that have slots for spring steel
TODO in the far future: redesign goliath cowls so i can dock with 4 magnets and 2 magnets on screws, so the tools don't fall off every time i tilt the damn printer```

^ Holy TODO

@lucid kite i think ur toolcahnger is coming online quicker than mine lmao

@crystal niche over here!

[crystal niche]

:3

[molten dirge]

This printer is scope creep central

started out wanting a toolchanger voron, ended up with a double stacked voron frame w stealthmax & solid state dehumidifying elements as a built in filament drybox

48V w Monolith, OMC 2504 motors (one day upgraded to Krakens), BTT Kraken

Sheet metal monolith gantry

6x Rapidburner Goliath toolheads with WWG2 DualFS extruders

G2ZXL Z drives, with CNC printed parts for ZOOOOOM with high accuracy

Mandala Roseworks with slightly weaker magnets for carto qgl

the list goes on!

can't forget the 4K logitech brio cam that won't run at usb 3.0 for some reason

Also if i include the gaskets and spacers, the structural panels are over 16mm thick

[crystal niche]

oh thats a biiig tophat

[molten dirge]

all because I didn't want a separate filament storage box & didn't want to design my own clicky clacky door extension lol.,

Also, stuck a oversized heatsink with some thermal tape on the kraken MCU and temps are actually a lot better

used to average 50C idle, now hits like 39C?

[crystal niche]

is it printing yet?

[molten dirge]

it can.

but the QGL is really off and the accel graphs are awful

also it can print as a 1 tool printer, not a multi-tool printer

not getting a serial in either until i can nail the gantry issues

[crystal niche]

this todo list is so intimidating lol

where is the descope creep

[molten dirge]

Tbh it's come a long way since I started on it again just a few weeks ago

got my masters degree, got a cushy job at a startup, got addicted to a gatcha game and had to pay off debts 😂

[crystal niche]

lol all within a year?

[molten dirge]

yup

was in a 1 year masters program

[molten dirge]

took a 9 month break***

but yeah having 5 fully functional tools is a miracle

[crystal niche]

I wish I started voron stuff before I graduated. but realistically I had enough to think about while in school

omg

[molten dirge]

the last one is taking a while cos i'm waiting

[crystal niche]

calibrate_all_offsets actually worked without tool freezing

[molten dirge]

oops, updated the todo again

[molten dirge]

well

z belts are out, gantry is disconnected, just have to figure out the wiring situation so i can pull the whole gantry out at once

[hasty raft]

White fibreglass sleeve on Goliath

[frail adder]

See. Yours isn’t discoloring like mine. So I’m assuming mine isn’t 100% glass fiber.

[molten dirge]

could you link the sleeve you used?

[hasty raft]

I don’t know the brand as I just got it from a local electrical supply store.

[molten dirge]

is it 10mm id tubing? if so ill just try my uxcell black and see how it goes

@frail adder fiberglass is always bound with smth, maybe uxcell uses a less temp resistant binder?

[hasty raft]

https://www.cabac.com.au/p/cable-wire-management/cable-covers-fixings/sleeving/gs10r

[molten dirge]

Awesome, thanks

[hasty raft]

Lol it only rated to 250c

[molten dirge]

yeah the uxcell is rated to 600C but who knows

[hasty raft]

Honestly I might get some of the black fibre glass because then the gunk won’t be as obvious lol

[molten dirge]

dock modding time!

[frail adder]

While true. It’s possible the uxcell stuff has a liner of a different material. Just cause it says fiberglass doesn’t mean it’s all fiberglass.

[molten dirge]

true

uxcell is mid in terms of quality so

[frail adder]

Yea. So no guarantee it’s actually good stuff. But it’s working for me. I just don’t recommend it due to it discoloring.

[molten dirge]

@crystal niche

its going well actually

[crystal niche]

Is that a magnet in the back? I thought it was 2 front 4 bottom

[molten dirge]

no that's the cowl

m3 heatset

magnet mount area ready!

34.59999999mm is funny

@crystal niche i'm fucked

apparently 3mm magnets are too thick

might get 1mm magnets in there

i think i can get this to work with 2mm magnets

[crystal niche]

Ohh

[crystal niche]

Rly how does it fit on the other one? I thought that was 3x6

[molten dirge]

sure, but this case doesn't work lol

goliath is just different

going to try extending the bottom here by 1.5mm, should not be in the way of the nozzle

ok it works very well with 1.5mm x 6 magnets

the cowl needs 1.5mm, the dock can do 2mm.

lets see

replace Camera USB C superspeed cable with ultra flexible Anker (more flexible than my friggin stepper cables, holy)
Drill new pg7 gland hole for Carto umbilical, or mount on gantry. Probably will test former, then move to latter if needed.
Replace Y Rails on gantry with West3D Berserker 400mms
Replace all bearings with repacked Berserkers
Flip display so it's on the correct orientation
Flip motors so they're on the bottom, not the top
Replace current X, y1 motors as they're from before when I forgot sense_resistors in config
Replace X beam with carbonara, add monolith titanium belt adapter

Clean up stepper wiring so it's more modular
Reinstall gantry with the alignment spacers, will be a huge hassle for Z mounting but gotta do what I gotta do for perfect qgl
Disassemble CNC G2ZXL, make sure all grubs are tight, align everything well again & ensure all Z belts are same length
Assemble T6
Re-assemble all tools with Titanium goliath heat shield + fiberglass heat sock
Install fiberglass sleeving on all umbilical cables, zip tie on each cable clip position
Install Sexball Probe
Install cartographer mount, add USB expander in canbus backpack, install carto software, move to carto homing toolless setup
Recalibrate all tool dock positions
Mount final 2 side panels
Clean up electronics bay AC wiring, maybe replace PSUs with smaller Meanwells and mount them vertically on a single DIN rail?
replace all toolboard mounting boards with new longer ones that have slots for spring steel
TODO in the far future: redesign goliath cowls so i can dock with 4 magnets and 2 magnets on screws, so the tools don't fall off every time i tilt the damn printer```

%^ reposting todo

@royal cairn does extra magnets on the tools fuck with carto?

i should probably test this before i pull the trigger

might have to add some more chamfers and stuff to ensure things mate smoothly

[royal cairn]

i don't run carto so idk.

have a beacon here that i aim to install soon-ish.

i haven't heard anything about toolmags messing with it. the magnets are fixed relative to the coil so don't think it's an issue.

[molten dirge]

o7 thanks!

[hazy flame]

Is this for slm? If so you should try and send them one file with all of your parts on it. It is a lot cheaper

[molten dirge]

SLS

idk what machine they use so

it's hard to pack the parts

[hazy flame]

170 is a lot for anything sls printed

[molten dirge]

yeah formlabs print now is much cheaper

[hazy flame]

It is normally stupid cheap with the shipping costing more than the part

[molten dirge]

it's big parts

😂

but yeah it'll be fine, i have a huge discount from the old formlabs buddy as well

just need 1 more planter pot 3d print to finish so i can test these, add a chamfer, get them ordered

[hazy flame]

Why on earth are you sls printing them? I really hope it is at least pa12

[molten dirge]

Carbonara is here!

[molten dirge]

the whole printer is SLS PA12. I'm keeping the theme going

i used to have a formlabs buddy who printed it for free.

[crystal niche]

Carbonara sucks, ship it to me and I'll check

[violet oasis]

https://tenor.com/view/delish-delish-recipes-hearst-wt-food-celebrity-snackdown-gif-13710013

[hazy flame]

What happened to him lol

[molten dirge]

he quit

[molten dirge]

took a file to it and it worked!

added a few chamfers, testing again

[molten dirge]

carbonara is here. how the heck are you supposed to fit a nut on the inside?

oh

it's a whole assembly

[molten dirge]

@crystal niche goliath 6 mag is done

tried my best to maintain compatibility with my existing magdock frame mod cos i REALLY don't want to print another

i printed a few in PETG to test fit and they slide and fit smoothly, will have great alignment finally

and since i'm printing these with Formlabs Printnow, I am getting the carbonara parts done in PA12-GF for really good HDT

[crystal niche]

nice >:)

[molten dirge]

that bodes really well for alignment & tool change & dropoff in the future

[heady holly]

Not to necro, but chromating aluminum usually gets you better adhesion. Just note that it's a hazardous chemical, so wear gloves, but you can get it as a pen applicator from places like Mouser and Digikey. Also called alodine pens. It's a chemical conversion of the aluminum surface, and helps with not only glue adhesion but paint, too. But it needs to be applied to bare aluminum. If the item is already clear coated, it'll need to be sanded first, anyway.

[molten dirge]

btw so far i've had 0 issues with those adhesive neoprene sheets

they've worked AMAZING under 60C+ chambers

[molten dirge]

ok i might start a new build thread for v2.7390. Shitty FYSETC / chaoticlabs kit build, in dire need of an upgrade

completed prints 20% 😂

horrendous reliability, A drive belts constantly walking away

have a spare cnc funssor AWD kit lying around so i am going to get some OMC motors, repack all the bearings in the gantry, use some 9mm epdm and finally get this printer reliable

and fast

Also have a spare BTT kraken, hopefully still works