2023 must have upgrades

[red rapids]

Looking to build a voron at the end of the year, and compiling a list of mods to include. Cost is not a major factor. What other mods are worth it?

Looking to use West3D custom configurator, 300mm size, rapido uhf.

• Clockwork 2? or is there something better.
• Definitely doing CANbus, lots of experience there and reduces wiring
• Klicky seems to be the best aside from beacon which is too pricey
• Kinematic bed mount?
• Fridge door mod
• Scrubby brush
• Prep for ERCF wit the stealhburner add-on.
• Looking to have the clear panels of glass, actually cheaper than PC frequently.

[wintry haven]

None if that is needed. It suggested you do stock first. Then mod if you if you run into a limitation. This isn't an ender. A Voron works great stock.

[red rapids]

Thoughts on CANbus not as upgrade but as wiring choice? I run them on all my printers

[wintry haven]

I'm not fond of canbus, but if you have experience it might not be too hard to install.

Might want to look at Nitehawk too. It's like canbus, but uses usb for signaling, so it's as easy to setup as any mcu in klipper.

[loud ravine]

As Steven said. I wouldn’t bother with most of that. Canbus would be the only one I’d do on a new printer if you’re comfortable with Linux.

Clockwork 2 will come with any kit now. Its standard with stealth burner

[red rapids]

Good stuff, klicky probe a thing or is that standard now as well? Otherwise no bed probe?

CANbus isn't so so bad once you get the hang of it, but... getting the hang of it is really not fun

[cloud jasper]

I'm probably late to the party, but my 2 cents. I just "finished" my 2.4 and just started modding for ECRF. The machine is amazing "out of the box", but if you like to tinker on it, there are some worthwhile mods you can do. The big quality-of-life upgrades I made to my 2.4 from stock were:
• Tap!
• Snap latches for the covers (the stock latches are a pain in the butt)
• PG7 umbilical mod for my EBB36 (I put spring steel wire in the umbilical sort of like this, it helps)
• AngryCAM mod (not great picture, but does a decent job. I did the “back mount” version and mounted just inside the front doors)
• Nevermore filter mod
• Case LED mod
• KNOMI display (absolutely not necessary and will have some small penalty for speed, but man it’s nice to just glance at the toolhead and see my progress)
• Rainbow Barf LED mod (it requires a separate diffuser and LED holder! This was just for fun and looks really cool. For the extra $10, I recommend.)

[obsidian ridge]

Klicky and not tap?

[crisp marten]

religious debate 🙂 Tap is easier to set up, but is not for the speedbenchy crowd.

[inland forge]

Hey man, I went stock on a 350mm 2.4 and if I were to do it again I’d do these right away, would save a lot of money and hassle.

Canbus+octopus pro+ebb36
-Eliminate the need for gantry cable chains, and expensive wiring harness, in addition to very low maintenance if a wire were to break.
Mantis/xol with UHF hotend and mini sherpa and RIDGA
-Stealthburner has cooling issues when pushing speeds, mantis and xol weigh way less and I saw a noticeable increase in top acceleration. Both are tried and true. If you go single mgn9 get a higher preload such as fabreeko honey badger rails. I don't know what motors come with the kit but LDO 2504 are standard for speed. There are more faster motors if you want to go 48V

ACM rear and deck panels- My deck panel was acrylic and warped A LOT. As such the rear and deck panel made it very hard to seal, leaking hot air and letting abs fumes out.

Cheap mods include Polysulfone standoffs and PEEK bed screws. The Filter, bed fans, ELGM mod, bed wagos, and klicky. Rear blank panel is also an option

Titanium backers also can help with gantry thermal expansion, reducing heat soak times and helping first layer issues

[red rapids]

I already am all in on canbus, and was looking at the xol, I have an orbiter on my ender 3 that I was looking at swapping out, or I also bought a galileo 2 kit so i thought about setting up Xol out of the box, but the main issue there is i have the SB2240 board, but, for my ender I have the ebb board so I am thinking about making and SBB2240 to EBB conversion dongle so that I can try both if I want, I do want to build a stock SB first though.

I went self source, and ended up with the LDO motors, so happy there, got ABS bottom panel, was going to go glass for the clear bits, I just realized I cant do glass for back panel so will need to buy ABS there too.

I went klicky, Tap seems to add some wobble from what I saw online, and I'm going sexbolt so needed klicky

[red rapids]

For camera I got one of the wide angle raspi cameras, going to mount in a similar spot to the voron cmaera

[main blaze]

If its your first Voron i wouldnt mod to many things they work great stock. Something i would change is add an galileo 2 extruder instead of clockwork 2 and get titanium backers.

And for can i would suggest get a toolhead mcu that supports usb C and run it via usb instead of can. Ive only had problems with can, usb on the other hand works flawlessly

[red rapids]

So I do already have the galileo 2 kit on the way, so thats good

I'm VERY comfortable with CAN, I run it on both my ender and my delta, although I 100% agree it can be an absolute pain for initial setup.

I got steel backers instead of titanium, hopefully that's good enough

I'm going to start with stealthburner and CW2, to get the printer running well, and then if I want to I will swap to Galileo 2. Maybe just start galileo 2

Got the fridge door as well

[main blaze]

you could just start with galileo 2 there isent really a difference if you use a clockwork or galileo in terms of building the toolhead

as for the probe i personally would go with klicky if beacon is too expensive.

also i would think about going with the ldo kit instead of the west3d custom kit. i dont know the quality of west3ds kit but ldos was excellent.

[red rapids]

So I went self source via west3d, got LDO frame/motors etc. Their self source configurator I think was maybe a little overpriced for my needs, since I know largely how I want to do wiring etc with canbus. Only thing I got from west3d specifically was their rails, they seemed comparably priced to other options. Also just their screws kit etc. I got octopus board with CAN and then the 5160/2209 combo.

Went rapido UHF hotend with it as well, I run that on my delta and its great

[main blaze]

i hope you got the octopus pro instead of the normal one? if so you could upgrade to 48V in the future

[red rapids]

yeah I did, octopus pro v1.1 I think. definitely the one with a separate motor input for 48v

[crisp marten]

This sounds like a solid plan.

[red rapids]

Thanks! Now its the waiting game for parts to come in.

[crisp marten]

Good luck and have fun with your build!

[red rapids]

whats the draw of bed wagos over electronics enclosure wagos? I have so many of them around anyways.

[inland forge]

Their essentially the same thing, only the bed wago are top mounted in the chamber. Makes it easier to remove the bed if you need to, otherwise you’d have to flip it over and unwire it. Makes adding nevermore/bedfans and replacing fuses later easier down the line.

[inland forge]

Here’s a guide to use the octopus pro and the ebb36 board, this might help. I used it and I really didn’t know what I was doing, just followed the steps and got it going https://cdck-file-uploads-canada1.s3.dualstack.ca-central-1.amazonaws.com/free1/uploads/klipper/original/2X/a/ad777531ba414299815e18b0f59a96ab4a0308ef.pdf

[red rapids]

makes sense, and thanks!

Am I crazy or is there no filament runout sensor anywhere on the stock voron?

[crisp marten]

You read correctly. V0.2r2 (?) is only stock with runout detect.

[red rapids]

interesting, I have a few laying around so nbd but odd considering how crucial they are

[crisp marten]

I've got about 3000h without one, only been bit a couple times. had reliability issues during the few hundred hours I had a SFS installed

If you have a SFS v1, there's a decent exhaust filler plate mount for it in voronusers

[red rapids]

I have the V2 but can probably just edit the mount, saw it in there

[crisp marten]

I think a v2 version exists but not sure if it was PRd

[red rapids]

I'm sure I can find something, I wish there were more sensors like the orbiter sensor, that is great honestly

lose less than 10mm of filament per runout since its directly at the extruder

[crisp marten]

there's mods for sensors at toolhead as well

[red rapids]

yeah I think I remember some from looking at ERCF

[distant willow]

I think the Must-Have-Upgrade for a Trident/2.4 is TAP. everything else is not necessary

[wintry haven]

Nevermore. 🙂

But yes.

[distant willow]

that is stock

[red rapids]

I was looking online, TAP does add some weight, and it seems like it adds some flex to the print head which isn't ideal for resonance/speed. Whats the main benefit, just no offset?

[crisp marten]

Swapped bedsheets? Fine. Swapped nozzles? Fine. Nonmetallic bed for special materials? Fine. Easier macros, doesn't require docking, and properly built is precise enough you can measure rail screw locations by microdistortions of the rails vs the bed.

It isn't for the speedbenchy crowd, but they're also only a subset of Voronia

[distant willow]

if you build it right or use a good CNC version, it doesn‘t wiggle around

[red rapids]

fair enough

maybe I go klicky for the XOL head and TAP for SB, will see

best CNC version? chaoticlabs?

[crisp marten]

of the available CNC options, Vitalli's would be where I would start, or the mellow version thereof

[red rapids]

thanks

[inland forge]

I thought about using tap, but I use klicky. Klicky can also nearly do the same thing and get a perfect z offset, called auto z offset. https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration I use it and it works great. Perfect offset everytime without adding weight to my toolhead. Although if your magnets on your clicky probe aren't secure, it will give you trouble

[crisp marten]

Fair. It is a legit tradeoff based on individual priorities and capabilities/needs

[red rapids]

I figure at this point they're basically equal

klicky lighter and cheaper, but takes time to dock etc, more failure points. tap easier but heavier and more expensive

[red rapids]

Just bought Tap, but also have klicky parts 😄

[rustic sapphire]

I love my klicky I'm now searching for better switches for it.

[distant willow]

i would never switch back to clicky, tap is much better

since tap I never had a probing/qgl fail

[red rapids]

nice

[rotund matrix]

mellow I think, I have the CL V1 no issues as yet, be mellow is a better design I think. more robust.

[humble totem]

Not a lot of people seem to use glass, so just a heads up that it will lower your chamber temps and increase preheat time. It’s also heavy — I had to make my own hinges to have the doors not droop.

[distant willow]

with tap???

[red rapids]

no he is referencing my glass enclosure panel idea

I did get the fridge door mod, so not super worried about door droop, going to print a small shelf for the side panels to sit on and then use the normal levers for the other sides

iaz do you have any regrets with glass? I have it on my lack enclosure and like it

[humble totem]

I like it, but it’s not without compromises. It’s easier to clean and the acrylic it replaced got scratched up immediately.