#'74 VW-Honda T2 Pritsche

91 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

severe charm
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Some fun facts about the vehicle:
It can load pretty much its own weight on the back, weighing in at 1190kg (although probably less now thanks to rust weight reduction), and being allowed a maximum weight of 2300kg.

It has a whole 50hp through a 4 speed manual gearbox with the 4cyl boxer engine below the bed, driving the rear wheels.

It needs a lot of welding, but the actual frame is in pretty great shape, and the rust mostly being from collecting water of standing 30 years.

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off onto the trailer it goes

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and here it is with the bed cleared

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this is where the fun begins

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this is the fuel tank, which is pissing out the bottom.

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everything around it is rusted through

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this is the back of the front right wheel well

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the steering column needed to come apart so i could replace the lock

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good thing is, the electrics are entirely intact and havent been touched

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after that, peeling off bad repairs on the sills

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and replacing all the remaining locks

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the bed will come off entirely, its much easier to replace completely

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removal continues

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check out this carb. niiice pitting

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runs fine though so i cant complain. smoke in the manifold is probably just the valve play being badly set

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back on the trailer it goes to its new home

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now the same process for the floor

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removing the remnants of the sill

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blasting the calipers

wild nebulaBOT
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GG @severe charm, you just advanced to level 1! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!

severe charm
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welding the first fresh piece in

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patching up a hole in the rear wheel well

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brake caliper back on and in place

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and more replaced pieces

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patching up the firewall

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lost of holes in there

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also did the other side but it fit up pretty badly and i feel bad about it but ill cover it up with bog

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now the motor: disassembling everything and the most cooked flywheel of all time

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back of the flywheel

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dry ice blasted most of the undercoating off

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redoing the chin

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replaced the top of the wheel well

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door off (for the first time ever)

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other door off, brake master replaced and new floors fitted

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floor pained

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floor mostly welded in

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closing up wheel wells and the sills

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new engine cut line

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modificaitons to the liquid systems of the car

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fits eaaasy

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radiators will stay in the back

wild nebulaBOT
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GG @severe charm, you just advanced to level 2! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!

severe charm
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oil system, no oil cooler necessary imo

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cranking it

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sump pump (weaver pump from i think an imsa car)

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picking up the engine

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so small in there

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engine arrived

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looks about right

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also continued the eternal bodywork fight

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thisi s where i notice the engine spins counter clockwise. easy fix for that tho: use a subaru transmission and just spin it backwards

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found someone that shortened the subie gearbox, next to a original vw box

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shouldve checked if there was oil in it

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i fucken hate 12pt

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looks like a got a good engine, everything nice and clean

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the whole contraption on top of the cams is hydraulic lash adjustment

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conrod fails at abt 15kN
pretty good

this whole thing is incredibly overbuilt xD

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gang do you think i should get the anodizing redone or will the pump be fiiiiiine
pump has definetly seen some things but im pretty sure im underusing it so much its fiiine

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gear pump calculations

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for reference

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which makes for 17,6 l/min which is heaps

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close enough, welcome back paint booth
ran out at the end tho
so waiting on more paint now

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subaru transmission up to the engine

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also got an answer from a company making parts for subie swaps on whether itd be fine to spin the transmission backwards

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the magic of buying shit in china or at friends makes the oil system nice and cheap

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m gonna go with mostly an fittings. maybe also some very large banjos because theyre funny

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im thinking one of these with some baffles in it would make for a for a great dry sump tank

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oh and add 20€ for this sign to that, 40s dry sump warning sign

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yall think NBR lines are fine for a dry sump? i feel like PTFE would be super overkill

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the output needs to have some support since the clutch will put unexpected axial force on the crank. and i also need a shaft sealing ring threre

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still needs some adjustment to fit just right

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big ole pile of parts, new seals for everywhere, new seat covers and interior panels
its getting dark red seats, i think it will constrast nicely to the white exterior

wild nebulaBOT
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GG @severe charm, you just advanced to level 3! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!