#2017 Cadi Cts 2.0l Turbo broke down after lost traction
91 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Let’s start with immediate issue first. “Battery doesn’t turn off” as in, you turn the engine off, get out of the car, and the stereo stays running?
Is it giving any message about key fob?
And there should be a physical trunk button on the drivers door, does that pop the trunk?
Lastly, what happens if you hold the start button for 10 seconds?
Time to use the physical key to pop the trunk
Depending on year the key hole may be behind caddy logo, I forget when they switched. If no key hole, then fold the rear seats down, there will be a trunk release near one of those, if memory serves
Worst case, fold down the rear seats and reach back to the glow in the dark handle
No phys key
Yeah, you do have one. It’s inside your key fob, slides out
Might be a key slot in the rear bumper, small square that pops out
Post a pic of your key fob I’ll tell you how to get your key
Will do when i have access, currently 20 minutes away
Copy. If yours is the egg shaped one, scroll the pics here to see how the blade comes out https://www.carandtruckremotes.com/products/2017-cadillac-cts-smart-remote-key-fob-w-engine-start
Very small button on the silver edge of the key fob, press it while you pull out the key
On the car, rear bumper, driver side, near the exhaust tip is a small square that pops out to expose the keyhole
I will try that out once i get off work
Any success - were you able to get into trunk, disconnect battery, turn off the dash, or get the car back to normal?
Car is not back to normal, but disconnected battery and tested it, did not start engine, a common issue i found is when the wheel speed sensors go bad either due to damage or over time, it puts the car in a limp mode
i disconnected the battery and reconnected it with out turning it on so i can keep the locks working
the physical key hole is broken, found that out last night
Wow. This car is a cascade of failures
yep
How did you get to the battery?
the back seats fold down lever was broken, but didnt mean they couldnt fold down, i got a ratchet in there and popped it down
Wow
Ok, so, when you connect the battery, the car turns on (dash and stereo) immediately, correct?
There’s part of me that’s suspecting the ignition button…. Given the physical damage you’ve found on the trunk key hole and the seat lever, what condition is your starter button in?
Starter button works, i hear the starter click every time i press it
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Ok so you can turn the car (dash and stereo) on and off now, correct? It’s just the engine does not start?
Engine doesn’t start, I didn’t turn it back on after disconnecting and connecting it a few times
But you can turn the dash/stereo on and off, correct?
Only by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery
Ordinarily, the starter button should be able to turn them on and off
What happens to the dash and stereo when you reconnect the battery? Do they come on right away and you cannot turn them off?
Ok that’s promising. So the condition is: starter button can tell them to turn on, engine fails to start but stereo and dash turn on, and then they do not turn off until battery is disconnected. Is that correct?
Yes
With the battery connected does the lock and unlock buttons on the fob work from outside the car?
Yes
Cool. With the battery connected but the key fob not in the car, it will not turn on, correct?
Perfect, so the key fob and central lock system is working
Yes
When you attempt to start engine it just clicks, correct?
Yes
What was the method of testing battery?
Testing it is a little difficult, i can only determine it by if the electricals turn on, i do not have a battery tester available rn
Ok. My immediate suspicion is a weak battery - it can appear “working” because the lights etc turn on, but not have enough “oomph” to crank the engine. Are you able to remove the battery from the trunk?
No, it would either take me tearing my trunk apart, or removing a bottomside access panel
Hmm
Battery is from a year ago
You got the back seats folded down, yeah? Does the emergency release handle (inside the trunk) work? You may need to contort yourself in there to get to it
Yes, i was able to get the trunk open last night doing so
Im a small dude so it helped in that regard
Haha, yep, that is the move. Do you have a multimeter?
No
Ok, you definitely need to get that battery out then, unfortunately. Get it load tested at a parts store, not just voltage tested.
At a minimum, need to confirm the battery is actually good before any other issues, modern cars can cause all kinds of weird issues when they don’t get proper voltage
The car can start but it has to sit for 10 minutes in the on position, it sputters while accelerating
And it’s possible even if the battery is bad, you may also have a bad alternator or something else, as well as I’m still questioning the button only half working
Ngl i was mid crisis when it started
Mid crisis?
I was upset
Oh yeah - rough night i am sure.
I was suggested the wheel speed sensors?
That is definitely a possibility, but I try to avoid replacing parts without diagnosis
My suggestion at the moment is to make sure the battery and charging system is In working order, then and only then the next priority is figuring out why it won’t shut off, then get it out of limp mode. Decent chance one of the first two items will solve the third one.
Yeah the ECM is very angry. I assume battery tested ok, or maybe just needed a charge, but you’re getting a proper 12.6 voltes?
Yes
It’s probably gonna need replacing
Carmax wont cover it tho😭
Their warranty and salespeople fuckin suck
Few basic things to check first, just in case.
Any aftermarket stereo, alarm, anything like that?
Even just a device plugged into the cigarette lighter port
ECM failures are actually really rare so I doubt that’s going to be what’s needed here, but I suspect you’ll need either a GM dealer or a shop with the GM software that can see the more specific fault codes that the generic OBD scanners don’t see
I’m seeing some info that the high speed CANBUS may be faulted - this is likely why they have no comms with the ECM, the U0073 is the cause of U0100. May at least be worth a conversation about the diagnostics, I’m unfamiliar with CarMax warranty but even if they don’t cover an ECM replacement the fix may be a wiring issue or something else.
no aftermarket pieces
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