#Removing the alternator of the VW Golf Mark 4 V5 engine.
225 messages Β· Page 1 of 1 (latest)
can u take a close up of the alternator?
oh shit thas crammed in there
Fr brah
I'll have to go under the car I thibk
yeah nah u got two options. remove the intake or the radiator
yes that could work too
I'll try go under the car as its the easiest π
That would be a pain π
yeah idk wtf them vw designers were smoking designing the engine bay of that car
That one bolt bruh
yeah go under the car
if not remove the intake or the radiator
aight bro good luck then π€ . dw btw this shit normal on german cars. the s class engines from 2010 are the messiest ive seen
bet bro
how long did it take π
Rust is my excuse π
aint no way π
GG @bitter root, you just advanced to level 2! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
u didint remove anything else and got it from going under the car?
π€
oh then what?
That the belt tensioner?
I think I found the right video but only time will tell lol
aight bro hahahh
it might be but never seen a tensioner look like that
Fr lol that's why I'm confused
yeah lmao. if it does then the pully should have some sort of tread but its just laminar so its mad confusing lmao
does it spin?
So I did check it all and I have confirmed that that is most the tensioner
Yes
The tensioner outlined in green
Thanks bro π
bro thas the goofiest tensioner iver ever seen. looks like an engine mount tbh
π€£π€£π€£
nah but fr straight up lmao
Ik bro so confusing π€£
ey but u get the alternator out?
Thr plan has changed π
"its a 10 minute fix" ahh sentence π
So cuz it's my dad's car. 1 change the spark plugs
what u doing to it now?
- Maybe get a new battery
- Find a jumper cable from a neighbour π
- In the last kind of resort change the alternator
aint every car meant to have a set?
Idk cuh I'm in uk π
If the alternator is not up to snuff, a new battery will only work for a short time
Yeah that's why we still gonna change alternator aswell π
yeah the alternator gotta send power back to the battery if it cant do that then gg
Cool. Good luck mate
bet bro good luck
Thanks g
You think I should create a yt while I'm fixing it π
Cuz there is no yt on how to
A first timer acting like a pro π
You should, yes. The only videos out there are for mk5 and above
Yea
So glad I joined this server bruh.
A few days ago I was tryna find random servers by doing discord.gg/ and did cars I think lol I find this so big W
@rancid solar @fringe bolt change of plan we working on the alternator again π
GG @bitter root, you just advanced to level 3! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
Put a wrench over this and you can rotate the tensioner slightly, to alleviate tension on the engine belt, then carefully slide the belt off one of the pulleys
I thought that would be it but it wasn't it wouldn't even budge lol
To screw u see is what I put and the tensioner was loosened
Such a odd tensioner π
Yep that works too. Nice work
Thanks g
I didn't realise it would take this long π
Cuz taking off the intake and radiator of is a lot of work I have to remove the things from under the alternator
The alternator is all set 1 cable has been removed and one screw has been removed and other has been lossened
What's the things called that are connected to the belt wheels?
the timing belt or the pulley?
oh god π
nah i found it out
i have to remove the steering pump and the AC compresser
as they are under the alternator
maybe i could have removed the intake...
Important detail - if you can, donβt disconnect the hoses from the AC compressor. Leave them attached and see if you can just un-mount the compressor and swing it out of the way
You do not want to get involved in evacuating and refilling your AC
Update
i removed the steering pump and the AC compressor
I removed the bolts of the Alternator but its stuck in its mount
@fringe bolt @rancid solar
Got some photos?
send some pics bro
Can't rn when I'm back I will π
Nice work! What else needed to happen to get clearance to remove it?
Powers alternating current to direct current n to battery
Well done man now u gotta get the new one in
GG @valid musk, you just advanced to level 1! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
We gonna get someone to test the alternator to see if it's good or bad
Nah
Just the steering pump and ac compressor
There was on thing blocking it which I thought I had to open but after removing the last alternator cable which I couldn't reach before I was able to turn it around and slip it through
Now it's the trouble of putting it back ππ
thatβs good man atleast u got it out and let someone test charge n rate if itβs charging
Goodluck Man!
Ye
Thanks bro π«‘
Ur welcome man cars are shit
Oh man - what if you did all this and the alternator turned out to be fine?
πππππ
I would break the alternator to get a new one πππ
On the plus side no matter what youβll be the only video on YouTube how to do this job
I forgot to record cuz it was raining and I kept getting frustrated πππ
I'll do the opposite film it putting in then order it the opposite way or sm lol
lessgoooooooo
@fringe bolt @rancid solar @valid musk after very careful examination the alternator is NOT the problem
GG @bitter root, you just advanced to level 4! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!
By careful examination i mean by buying a new battery and following steps produced by chatgpt to test the alternator out of the car
Tools Needed:
Multimeter
Jumper wires
Battery
Load (such as a light bulb or resistor)
Steps:
Set Up the Alternator:
Secure the alternator on a stable surface where it can operate safely.
Connect the alternator's positive terminal to the positive terminal of the battery using a jumper wire.
Connect the alternatorβs ground to the negative terminal of the battery using another jumper wire.
Check for Parasitic Draw:
With the battery connected, set your multimeter to measure current (amperes).
Place the multimeter in series between the positive battery terminal and the positive wire going to the alternator.
Observe the current reading. A significant current draw (above a few milliamps) indicates a parasitic draw, suggesting the alternator may be draining the battery.
Load Test:
To further verify, connect a load (like a light bulb) in parallel with the battery.
Start spinning the alternatorβs pulley using a drill or other mechanical means.
Measure the output voltage of the alternator with the multimeter set to measure DC voltage.
A healthy alternator should produce around 13.8 to 14.4 volts when the engine is running.
Inspect Diodes:
If you suspect the alternator's diodes are faulty (common cause of battery drain), you can test them individually if you're comfortable disassembling the alternator.
With the alternator disassembled, use the diode setting on the multimeter to test each diode. A good diode will show a low resistance in one direction (forward bias) and high resistance in the opposite direction (reverse bias).
Conclusion:
If the alternator shows a significant current draw without any load, itβs likely causing a battery drain. Alternatively, if itβs not producing the correct voltage during the load test, itβs also malfunctioning. Faulty diodes are a frequent culprit for both of these issues, and inspecting them closely can confirm the problem.
Opinion:
Frankly, if you find that your alternator is draining the battery, just replace it. Testing is useful, but alternators are complex and vital components. Given their critical role and the potential for other hidden issues, it's often more practical and reliable to get a new or professionally refurbished unit rather than trying to fix it yourself unless you're experienced in automotive electrical systems.
p.s The ampetre set to measure using the multimeter is 200m
(or thats what i used)
I also measured the battery voltage before connecting the jumper cable to see the current voltage and after connecting the alternator using the jump leads to see if the voltage would decrease dramatically indicating that the alternator is drawing power
The issue was just the battery. However i will still test everything again once connected to the car to see if there is anything else that is draining the battery not just the alternator
boys the alternator in finally in
and everything is back together.
The only thing im now waiting for are the spark plugs then ill start the car up after a long time
Put the spark plugs in yesterday
emptied the coolant after like 4 years
dirty as heck bruh
Good service mate! Keep up the good work
boys the car runs now
Lets goooooooooooooo!
now i have to deal with the throttle cuz it makin such a loud noise π
Nice work mate - always fun to hear it start after doing a big job
good shit my guy
oh ahha good luck gng
yesssurr lol
yo
i actually dunno bro
so basically its been around 4 years since a proper start so after a lot of trial and error got the car started and changed a few things including the battery and coolant
i forgot i had to bleed the air from the coolant so i did that today
unfortanetly the car still rough idles and makes a very loud sound coming from the engine. The picture shows where the sound is coming from and it was located at the pvc pipe bridging from the engine to the intake pipe
Have you looked into the IAC?
Out of curiosity, now that youβve got it running, can you scan for trouble codes? Clear them, then run the car until they come back and that should be a good start
yeah i cleaned and checked it. The voltage reading seems off so once i check teh pvc pipe tomorrow i might replace the IAC
Yea i brought an expensive obd2 reader its a ancel vd700 but it doesnt detect much for the loud sound expect because the MAF sensor is disconnected. There was a engine cooling error but now that i bled it hopefully it gets removed
If possible, a video with audio of the sound may be helpful
What happens if you plug the MAF back in?
yeah hopefully i send it tomorrow
i packed everything up as the engine is super hot to bleed the coolant
same sound but th eother two errors disappear
Ok thatβs good. So if I understand correctly, at present situation is: if everything is connected and running, no trouble codes for which you havenβt already taken corrective action; youβll re-bleed the cooling system when it cools down; and there is a sound that youβll post tomorrow for us to hear, correct?
ive bled the coolant today but everything else correct ye
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Iβll do research once I am home. Iβm thinking IAC but what about your Throttle body?
i cleaned it
Have you looking inside where the butterfly is? It might be horrendous or damaged
thank u π€
Ahh ok! Sry 10 second crap
butterfly?
The flapper if you will
yeah its all good and cleaned
Dope
ye
GGood news. I found the issue it was the pcv valve
bad news in in the frickin engine so I have to open the top of the engine cover
so if flushing the oil to remove and dirt if there is any in the pcv valve doesn't work ill just sell the car because I don't have eeven the slightest expertise to work on engine
Oh good deal. Sorry I havenβt gotten back, been so busy
all good bro just hope the flush works and not have to replace the whole thing
Fingers crossed
ye
AAnyone know how to remove a lug nut that is smoothed out
i love how this thread is non VW people trying to work out VWs, been a comical read for me
also congrats on the alternator and spark plugs
few ways you can do it, angle grinder, hammer and chisel, or smack an impact onto the lug nut with a hammer and ugga dugga it until it gets removed
Non VW people lol
yes
π
π«‘
My corrado years are long behind me haha. Not sure if Iβm a former VW people or a non VW people π
π
i consider myself former after not having one for a year, so weβre both former
I'm a intermediate ππ
did u get your alternator out?
yea
did u get it back together yet?
yea
does it run?
yeah
i tested the alternator and i tested it usin a multimeter and the alternator was all fine
the battery was the issue
bruh u went through all that 
sshhhh π
How has it been with the car?
Hasnt been fixed yet π₯²
Somethinf wrong with the engine, I was thinking it would be a valve in the enginer that is stuck or broken but a mechanic said it could be the timing chain