#BMW E61 Dashcam install help

97 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

neat oxide
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I have a 2006 530i and I'm having issues installing a hardwire kit for my Dashcam.

Dashcam Model: Viofo A139 3CH
Hardwire Kit Model: Viofo HK3C

I've plugged the hardwire kit into my trunk fuse box with fuse taps, the ACC is plugged into Fuse Nr. 89 which provides power to the elektrochrom rear view mirror when the engine is switched on, but provides no current when off. This switches the dashcam into parking mode.

The Battery cable is plugged into Fuse Nr. 63 which provides power to the auxiliary heating / preheating system. From my testing with my multimeter it provides power when the car is completely off. The dashcam remains on after I switch off the engine.

The hardwire kit has a voltage cutoff with 4 setting. 11.8V, 12V, 12.2V and 12.4V
I currently have it set to 11.8V.

I have checked my battery and I had 12.3V. Right now I'm idling my engine a little to charge it up slightly.

Now the problem is, despite as far as I'm concerned everything being wired correctly, the dashcam still turns off shortly after I park the car. Last I've checked it's been within 20-30 minutes. The battery has plenty of power so I don't understand why the camera looses power.

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tiny folio
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First test in my mind would be to monitor the voltage after you park it and see 1, what reading you have when you have just parked and the camera is on (in park mode) and 2, what reading you have when the camera goes off

drifting needle
neat oxide
# tiny folio First test in my mind would be to monitor the voltage after you park it and see ...

After I shut down the the car from idling a little to charge the battery, I was at 13V which went down to 12.6 and stood there as I was monitoring it sitting in the trunk for 15 minutes lol.

The camera remained on during that time. I put all the trim back and locked the car. Checked 1 last time before walking away and the camera still was on. That was 20min ago.

Now, before this post and me idling to charge the battery it was at 12.3V after sitting in the trunk and listening to music trying to figure out why the camera keeps going off. My guess would be the battery was at 12.4~ when I walked to the car to check the camera.

tiny folio
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Yep, the change I’m interested in seeing is if you can catch if there is a voltage change when the camera shuts off

solemn relic
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I'm like 50% sure my car has been acting up like this too. Curious to see what you figure out

neat oxide
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Of course, a few hours later this stupid camera is off again.

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I don't understand this at all.

thin maple
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Are both fuses connected to a fuse tap that would eventually turn off? With my dashcam one would be an accessory fuse then one would be on 24/7 to provide power when parked.

neat oxide
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It's the same that you mentioned.

thin maple
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I see I see,

neat oxide
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I've tried like 3 different fuses for the continuous power.

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The battery NEVER reaches even close to the voltage cutoff.

thin maple
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That’s weird. I would only suspect the second “battery” cable to be the only issue with not receiving power but you see@ to already have tried different fuses. Is the dashcam completely turning off or does it just go into “sleep” parking mode just by turning off the display but the camera is still running

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I’m not too familiar with the Viofo system I use Rexxing

neat oxide
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No, the camera is fully off.

And what do you mean by second battery cable.

There are 3 cables, ACC, Battery and Ground.

ACC is connected to a fuse which only has power with the engine running, no power when the engine is off and the car is parked.

Battery has continuous power.

And ground is connected to my negative battery terminal.

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The dashcam won't even turn back on when I unplug the fuse tap and plug it back in. Despite the voltage being 12.5+V when checking the fuse with the multimeter.

thin maple
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What the heck. I wonder if the E61 has some sort of automatic power off for the fuses

tiny folio
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Are you checking battery voltage at the battery terminals? I wonder if you can check at the device itself instead? You know the battery is outputting correctly but see if the device is getting the right input levels

neat oxide
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It only turns back on when I start the engine. Not even pressing the start button once to enable power to accessories like radio, lights etc makes it turn on. Literally ONLY with the engine running.

thin maple
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I’m assuming it’s just an issue with finding the correct fuse for always on. Not unless the hardwire kit is faulty

neat oxide
tiny folio
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Time to get with the vendor. If you’re showing 12.5+ volts and it’s still shutting off, the device itself is not reading your voltage properly

neat oxide
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The fuse box in the trunk only has 5 fuses that do not have continuous power which is the very top row.

Every other fuse has continuous power with the engine completely off, completely as in engine off and ignition off.

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I bought the hardwire kit last year but just now came around to install it. I'm going to contact Amazon for a replacement and then check again.

It's super annoying because I have to take off all the trim again to remove the kit.

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The E61 does indeed have a system which shuts of certain electronics of the car off if the battery is low while parked. But that sensor is broken on my car and unplugged.

tiny folio
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Instead of working through Amazon, can the manufacturer of your device do some troubleshooting with you?

neat oxide
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So in that regard shouldn't be the cause of this either. Since every fuse I checked has power with the engine and ignition off.

Even more so, because currently it is plugged into the auxiliary heating / preheating fuse which should have continuous power at all times since it powers the heater that I can set to preheat my car at a specific time without me doing anything on the car after setting it up.

tiny folio
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Yep, based on your description, it’s not working as designed. Open a case with the manufacturer’s tech support team and troubleshoot with them

neat oxide
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But there is one very odd thing that I've noticed.

One of the fuses that continously is on is for the alarm system. When I plug in my fuse tap in that fuse, and read the fuse voltage it says 0.

This ONLY happends on that specific fuse. Every other fuse I try with the fuse tap shows voltage.

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But when I read the fuse directly without the tap, it shows voltage.

tiny folio
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Yep, and you’ve tried multiple fuses that all have power. I assume you’ve checked voltage at the output side of the fuse tap when it’s installed, yeah?

neat oxide
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Yes.

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I even watched a YouTube video explaining how fuse taps and how installing them works.

Learned a bunch of things that I didn't apply before. Like the correct orientation and which hole to use for which fuse on the plug.

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I'll try contacting Viofo support for troubleshooting help but I think it will all boil down to getting the kit replaced.

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I really really doubt that the fuse taps are faulty cause everything works BUT the dashcam getting power while off for longer than like 30-60min

tiny folio
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I believe you voltage testing the output of the fuse taps rules out them as the concern

neat oxide
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Dashcam was off, Battery still had 12.3V after half a day parked.

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tiny folio
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Good test, and I’d suggest that you’re ruling out an issue with the car’s electrical system. Either that dashcam thinks 12.3 isn’t enough and it tripped the battery saver, or the dashcam thinks it’s getting less than 12.3.

neat oxide
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How would I check what voltage the dashcam gets? Like what's flowing through the cables. Maybe the connection between the fuse tap and the hardwire kit isn't the best.

tiny folio
neat oxide
tiny folio
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I assume you used some type of joint or connector from the output wire of the fuse tap to the input of the dash cam or dash cam wiring harness - can you check there?

neat oxide
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Those are all isolated in plastic and crimped shut

tiny folio
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Hmm. Can you unplug the wiring harness and test at the terminals?

neat oxide
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No, I can't unplug the harness itself. It's connected with the fuse taps.

It's like this, the wires are inside the blue thing which is then pressed together with a special tool.

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I'd have to cut the wire.

tiny folio
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Cool. In that case, you’ve validated your install as much as you can. Time for the vendor to answer some questions about why their product doesn’t appear to work as designed

neat oxide
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The manufacturers replies have been nothing but unhelpful this far.

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I noticed that they claim "3 month limited warranty" in the instructions manual of the kit which is unlawful because the EU has a legal 2 year minimum warranty.

I demanded for a replacement kit, let's see what they say in a few days. They're so slow.

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If they refuse or try to fight a replacement I'll just go to Amazon and they'll offer me a replacement or refund no questions asked.

tiny folio
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Good deal. Yeah you’ve tried enough different fuses that I doubt it’s a problem with any one fuse cutting off power as they suggest

drifting needle
neat oxide
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After I demanded a replacement with my last email they sent a replacement out. So in a few weeks or so it'll probably arrive and I'll see if it fixes the issue.

neat oxide
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I don't understand this stupid car or these fuses.

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There are 2 fuses that by my research should 100% have power at all times.

One of them being the alarm system.

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The multimeter shows voltage when the original fuse is inserted but NO voltage when I insert my fuse that goes to the dashcam.

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None of the cables that have like the 2 fuse spaces show any voltage when inserted into the alarm system fuse

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And also, yes the car only enters sleep mode after around 40 or so minutes while the car is locked. You can't do anything without the car waking up which makes finding fuses that have power when the car is fully off completely impossible.

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Because since the car has to be locked for it to enter sleep mode, the alarm system will be active which makes moving around and checking fuses within the car while it's active nearly impossible without it going off.

torn acorn
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Just realised how late I was and how much had already been done 👍

stone steppeBOT
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tiny folio
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Out of curiosity, any chance you can run a wire directly to battery? Add an inline fuse but that may be cleaner

neat oxide
stone steppeBOT
#

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torn acorn
torn acorn
tiny folio
# neat oxide I lack the knowledge and know how to do that.

Mostly it’s a challenge of finding the best path to run a wire from your battery to the camera, without drilling holes etc. some cars it’s easier than others. Spend a few minutes looking around your battery and how you can get from here to there.

neat oxide
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I mean, routing the cables is fine, but I don't know how to make plugs / connect stuff directly to the battery.

tiny folio
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Ah ok, you can use ring connectors or spades, depending on your battery terminal type. https://www.lowes.com/pl/Ring--Terminal-wire-connectors-Cable-wire-connectors-Electrical/4294722552?refinement=4294819250 and also get some split tubing to protect the cable in spots where it may rub or chafe https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Tech-25ft-Tubing-Conduit/dp/B07TDGMDW4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.oFSUmfBbuDGk2xPuC11FwZijYMcmBDd-PIn47bEyspM-CT2abhttmbK1kGa_CC0fcIvZ1MM6aNFc7H1Mp7JxEDZQu5bVm-dHNNNhHJGxXNKyLyG50Qupt3ddrs6FfUWMnW9N11r4Kb-kByPTBL6zOdSWD8HnDuzym5TVOomWm0puQyzy8ag8SjtHSVO8PuZbuGWz6BjWOcP-bpIpqCxJyg.PhrHY8Zc8bqVzHMUL7J288AoIfl2paYq7qoD0_KamyA&dib_tag=se&keywords=flexible+wire+tubing&qid=1713883696&sr=8-4 for example, although you will want to shop around for an appropriate size

Alex Tech 25ft – 1/4 inch Split Wire Loom Tubing Wire Conduit – Bla...

The Alex Tech split wire loom tubing is made from polyethylene (PE). The split design makes the act of insert cables easily. The easy use, durability, and dependability makes the wiring loom to be one of the most popular wire conduits for holding wires in position and protecting wires against abr...

solemn relic
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ofc this is easier if you have some place to leave the car unattended for an hour while the doors are open

neat oxide
neat oxide
thin maple
solemn relic
thin maple
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this thread makes me want to reinstall my dashcam

solemn relic
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is always good idea

neat oxide
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Unless you live in a country like me where it's more or less illegal but also legal to record with a dashcam. But that's a whole different topic.

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Still saved me during a few accidents since having it.

thin maple
neat oxide
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GUYS, I THINK I FIGURED IT OUT.

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I think I finally hit the right fuse that is constant power even while the car is sleeping.

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Car has been parked since around 6pm and it's 12am right now.

thin maple
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Wait that’s fire good for u

tiny folio
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Nice!

solemn relic
neat oxide
solemn relic
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I see

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Now I need to go double check my fuse placement

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Too bad finding replacement fuses for a multimeter is harder than finding a stock NA Miata

neat oxide
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NA Miata are 12K where I live.

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The majority of them are low mileage and completely stock too. Extremely expensive only cause it's rare.

neat oxide
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After monitoring the dashcam for the past few days I can safely say that it's working now and that I've got the correct fuses.

Replacement hardwire kit is on the way so i could install that in my E34 lmao or just keep it in storage.

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For anyone else going to do this, which is probably a very slim chance for anyone owning an E61 in the US or so, the fuses that will work in the trunk are:

ACC: Fuse Nr. 89 (electrochrom rear view mirror)
BATT: Fuse Nr. 82 (12V socket in the trunk)

GROUND: Negative Battery Terminal.

This ONLY applies to E61s made until 9th of 2005.