2007 Range Rover Sport

[long glacier]

Was driving yesterday, and it was around -7F and my car stopped accelerating?Shifted it multiple times to drive and got absolutely no response when I pressed the gas pedal. 0RPM too. Any guesses what happened? I stopped and restarted the car and it drove on like nothing happened. Check engine light turned on too.

Also I forgot to add that on the dashboard, it said “Special Programs Off” before it stopped accelerating

[faint galleon]

Big difference between stopped accelerating and stopped running. Which was it?
Right off the bat I'd pull the codes to see what isn't happy. A basic code reader is hit or miss on JLR's, and a more specialized European shop would give you better answers.

[long glacier]

Sorry for my wording. The engine was still running, but it stopped accelerating and had no response to hitting the gas

I will go to an auto part store and get the codes, and I will update, thank you

[faint galleon]

Sounds like a plan. You clearly got toggled into safe mode by the ECU to prevent further possible damage.
I'll warn that even an auto parts store will have limited scan capabilities when it comes to JLR, which is why a European shop may be a better choice to get in-depth reads. JLR has always been very tight on allowing access to their extended codes and those readers are typically in the thousands.
I have an advanced scanner for my personal use with my Jags (Xtools D8) and it only covers about half the systems.
Anyhow, keep us posted!

[long glacier]

I wish I had a euro shop near me but the nearest one is over 3 hours away, and I don’t think my car can make it there

[long glacier]

This is what they were able to pull, crap ton of codes

I hope my car isn’t done for 😭

[faint galleon]

Nah, not to panic yet.
You really didn't get any codes here. It just shows how many. The actual codes themselves would be handy.
Step one would be to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes to see if the current state resets, or falls back into safe mode.

What motor do you have? 4.2?

[long glacier]

Oh ok

[rigid abyss]

GG @long glacier, you just advanced to level 7! Chat more to level up and earn top roles!

[long glacier]

4.4, the sport HSE

[faint galleon]

AWD?

[long glacier]

4x4

[faint galleon]

(Nice choice BTW) I'll need to dig, because if the 4.4 is a bored or stroked 4.2 then you have a pretty solid motor overall. The 4.2 is known mostly for the plastic housing holding the thermostat cracking, so watch your engine temps.
The 4x4 drivetrain is something I have zero knowledge about.
Still, TCCM is the transfer case control module, and according to some quick searches seems to be a known problem area.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z9lbE7PFN4s
Not saying that is your issue as we have no real codes to go off of, but it looks pretty easy to remove and inspect for corrosion.
A boatload of codes is not that big a worry as the ECU will store them like... forever... I had codes describing a battery failure an all the hardware associated with it from 10 year ago. We only care about what is recent.
So as long as your going to disconnect the battery, looking at the TCCM while you are close to it wont hurt.

[long glacier]

Awesome thank you

I will bring it to a mechanic to see if they can get the actual codes

[faint galleon]

A good shop can actually print out the entire list of current and past codes, or even email them to you. You can ask them to clear all the codes after you get a a current reading.
I would still unplug the battery for 30 minutes, which will clear active codes. Then see if and how quickly they return. JLR computers can be temperamental (and are really touchy when it comes to weak batteries as well).

[long glacier]

👍

Do you think the cold would have something to do with it? When it happened it was -8F outside, and I didn’t really let it warm up because I was in a hurry

[faint galleon]

No engine likes those temps, especially when parked overnight in them. If the storm was one of the freak ones like we have recently seen across the USA, then yes, be kind to your engine and let it warm up a bit first. (Your not driving a dime a dozen vehicle here after all.)
If this is weather you see often, then a block heater is a must.
Were the temps the cause of your problem? Not likely, unless it went into limp mode almost immediately after you started down the road.

[long glacier]

👍

Unplugged the battery and now I’m going to wait for 30 minutes

[long glacier]

Plugged back in and took for a ride

Check engine light not there anymore, and didn’t come back, weird thing tho is that when I started the engine first it was like the engine died??

I started second time and it started weak, then powered up, did it have something to do with the cold? Haven’t started/driven it since I got the first codes @faint galleon

[faint galleon]

At this point, your ecu is starting from scratch, so a few hickups don't frighten me. Your transmission will need to re-learn your driving habits (it is intelligent to a degree that it will program itself.)
You will also have to teach the windows where their end stops are.
Right now, it is a wait and see moment. Cold is never good on engines so be sure to let it warm before driving. Pay attention to what you are doing should the CEL come back on.
If it does return, then get those code read as soon as possible, as that is your first clue the problem is still there.

[long glacier]

Sounds good, I’ll let you know if something happens, thank you very much

[long glacier]

Do you think it could have been bad spark plug? I’m reading up on the symptoms and my car had the exact same symptoms for bad spark plugs

Like I started it this morning, the engine died on me, and I had to try again to start it, also the weird thing that happened when I couldn’t accelerate, and my fuel economy went down from 15mpg to 8mph

[faint galleon]

Did the check engine light come back on?

[long glacier]

It hasn’t yet

[faint galleon]

But other than the 2nd try on starting, no codes and it drives correctly?

[long glacier]

Yeah, and the horrible gas economy

[faint galleon]

Gas economy is just a computer reading, not reality. It too will need time to re-calibrate itself, a few fill-ups will likely set that straight. What we are looking for is engine/performance related. Cold start is still a concern, but how is the *idle, acceleration, and shifting *(keep in mind the transmission is intelligent as well, and needs time to learn your driving habits)?
I'm not quick to leap into panic mode, simply because JLR's can be temperamental. I've learned that most common issues are easily addressed. Right now, we are waiting for any new codes to appear, so treat her nicely for a week or so and lets wait and see.
Peace!

[long glacier]

oh ok, it seems to idle fine, and accelerate fine. Shifting seems normal too. I will let you know if there are more codes, thank you!

[faint galleon]

Just because I can, here are my two babies. I love my Jags.... Sigh....

[long glacier]

Also once I figure out everything I’m probably going to sell it. Any recommendations on what I should go for? Looking to go with a coupe(one with 4 seats) and is reliable and looks nice

[faint galleon]

If 4 seats are a must, then I would seriously look at an XF rather than a coupe. One hell of a steel on todays market (provided you steer clear of the 5.0L).
As for coupes, I'm not really any help there. You can buy a low mile XK like my silver one in the $14-16k range, but they arnt practical, nor good for more that 2 people (rear seats are there for insurance purposes only).

A used Auston Martin would be my preference if a coupe was on my list, but again, not practical.
Once I sell my XKR, I'll be on the hunt for a 2006 jaguar XJR. Class, luxury and power all wrapped in a single aluminum chassis!