Custom board to make Home Depot switches ESP32/ESPHome based. | ESPHome | Page 1

gentle geyser Jun 18, 2024, 6:00 PM

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Hey guys!

I'm working on a custom board to replace the controller board in the (reasonably priced) Commercial Electric model HPSA11CWB WiFi light switch sold at Home Depot in the US/Canada.

I've designed it to fit exactly where their controller board does. The board has notches for proper alignment, and the switches line up with the existing front plate. It has a high amp (via MOSFET) output pin for the relay (which is on the secondary board).

Besides a dedicated 3.3V regulator, I've also added a USB-C connector and an integrated USB-to-UART controller for ease of testing and programming.

I've also equipped the board with a temperature/humidity sensor and an ambient light detector available via I2C. All the ESP32C-6's pins are broken out to optional JST connectors on the bottom of the board for development or general repurposing.

I would love some help from people familiar with circuit designs, as I'm not an engineer, just a hobbyist.

I plan to have my first batch created as soon as I finish cleaning up the design and labeling all the pins.

https://github.com/CreativeSolutionsDepot/ESP32-LSHT-M-H

haughty geyser Jun 18, 2024, 6:02 PM

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Who is TUX?

gentle geyser Jun 18, 2024, 6:02 PM

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My 4yo Cockapoo, who is always supervising me, lol

haughty geyser Jun 18, 2024, 6:02 PM

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then i feel cheated of a dog tax pic!

gentle geyser Jun 18, 2024, 6:05 PM

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You are correct, my apologies!

haughty geyser Jun 18, 2024, 6:08 PM

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ahh Tux is cute!

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this project can be approved now!

remote escarp Jun 18, 2024, 6:17 PM

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This is really cool. I've wanted to make my own light switches, but wasn't sure where to start -- I might mess around with this!

small plinth Jun 19, 2024, 2:24 AM

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https://tenor.com/view/shut-up-and-take-my-money-futurama-fry-take-my-money-money-gif-15195954

raven imp Jun 19, 2024, 6:36 AM

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As much as I love the idea, I would be extremelly careful. Putting non-UL approved devices inside of electrical boxes is an easy way to get your home insurance voided if anything happens [even not related to your switch]

gentle geyser Jun 19, 2024, 12:05 PM

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@raven imp, that is why I’m only replacing the control board, the board that is connected to the high voltage is the original UL approved one, I am just supplying 3v to the original relay.

hot lynx Jun 19, 2024, 3:33 PM

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This is quite the feat! The rest of us peasants just buy switches with an esp32 inside them already.

raven imp Jun 20, 2024, 1:04 AM

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gentle geyser <@721408193816952942>, that is why I’m only replacing the control board, the boa...

from what I know about the things we make, replacing the board makes the whole unit non-UL complaint. With electrical code even stupid things like switch plates are UL-rated (due to flamability).

gentle geyser Jun 20, 2024, 1:12 AM

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I didn’t mean to imply it would inherit the UL certification by doing that,

I meant I’m creating a product that meets my “safe enough” standard.

Which means that it won’t kill me or my dog in my sleep before something else does.

That said, I highly recommend that this project be used only as a thought experiment.

** There is a reason for the mad scientist printed right on the board. **

raven imp Jun 20, 2024, 1:29 AM

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oh no no! Don't get me wrong 😄 I'm totally 100% for that and it looks like a pretty safe design, which only could use some shielding or protection overall from EMF around. Just saying that just in case "I have no idea how it got there" 😄

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cyan ore Jul 16, 2024, 9:50 PM

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Good job for a newbie!! I took a quick look at your schematic: 1. get C1 and C2 as close to ESP32 VCC as possible ; Instead of the Bidir TVSs D1, D2, D3 use a USBLC6-2SC6_C2827654 ; 3. Also might want to put a ferrite and two caps on your Vin (see photo); 4. On the AMS1117 increase bulk caps and add bypass (see Photo), and most ESP32 want EN to rise high after power is stable so a 10k pullup and either a .1 or 1uf cap to ground.

quiet hare Jul 18, 2024, 7:09 PM

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BTW, not sure if you can edit your original post, but I tried searching for "HPSA11CWDB" and couldn't find any results. It seems the actual model is "HPSA11CWB" (without the D)

gentle geyser Jul 21, 2024, 3:43 PM

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quiet hare BTW, not sure if you can edit your original post, but I tried searching for "HPS...

Thanks, I guess I cut and pasted it too many times and I missed that.

gentle geyser Jul 21, 2024, 3:47 PM

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cyan ore Good job for a newbie!! I took a quick look at your schematic: 1. get C1 and C2 ...

Wow thanks for the tips, I had never seen a USBLC6-2SC6_C2827654 used before, that looks like a very nice solution.

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HomeDepot Canada has them marked down to $18/unit and US at $15. Couldn’t help but stock up for my project.

tribal bobcat Aug 7, 2024, 5:55 PM

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Do you know how difficult it would be to not require a neutral for these?

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https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/threads/how-does-a-two-wire-no-neutral-smart-switch-power-itself-while-the-lightbulb-is-on.171938/ with a video at the bottom for a deeper dive

gentle geyser Aug 8, 2024, 6:26 PM

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Funny you mentioned that, I just ran into that issue the other day. It seemed way too complicated to try and make it work without the neutral.

What I did was change the wiring to be always on. The switch doesn’t actually need to be connected to the light since I can use home assistant to turn it on and off.

So I connected another relay and esp32 running plain Esphome and when I press the switch it makes an API call to home assistant to turn on the lights in the room.

The other two lights were already always on lights and have wifi bulbs in them.

#Custom board to make Home Depot switches ESP32/ESPHome based.