#Auxmer WWCW 24V 19.2W Analog Kitchen Task Light Ethernet, Gestures, Power Consumption

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glass nymph
#
# LED Strip gesture control with TOF VL6180X sensor
# 5M = 3.31A 1M =
# 5M = 2.48A 1M = 0.76A 1M = 0.38A/Channel
substitutions:
  device_name: esp32gesturecontrol001
  device_friendlyname: ESP32-Gesture-Control-001
  created_by: "NonaSuomy"
  device_description: "LED Strip gesture control with TOF VL6180X sensor https://raw.githubusercontent.com/exxamalte/esphome-customisations/master/vl6180x/vl6180x_sensor.h"

esphome:
  name: $device_name
  friendly_name: $device_friendlyname
  includes:
    - "vl6180x_sensor.h"
  libraries:
    - SPI
    - Wire
    - adafruit/Adafruit BusIO @ 1.9.6
    - "Adafruit_VL6180X"
  platformio_options:
    board_build.flash_mode: dio
    #board_build.arduino.memory_type: opi_opi
    #board_build.f_flash: 80000000L
esp32:
  #board: esp32dev
  board: esp32-s3-devkitc-1
  variant: esp32s3
  flash_size: 16MB
  framework:
    type: arduino
    #type: esp-idf
    version: recommended
    #sdkconfig_options:
      # need to set a s3 compatible board for the adf-sdk to compile
      # board specific code is not used though
      #CONFIG_ESP32_S3_BOX_BOARD: "y"

# external_components:
#   - source: github://pr#6520
#     components: voice_assistant
#     refresh: 0s

# Enable logging
logger:

psram:
  mode: octal
  speed: 80MHz

# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
  encryption:
    key: !secret encryption_key006

ota:
  password: !secret ota_pass006

#wifi:
  #ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
  #password: !secret wifi_password
  #use_address: !secret use_address_wifi006
  # Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
  #ap:
    #ssid: "T-Energy-008 Fallback Hotspot"
    #password: !secret fallbackhotspot006

ethernet:
 type: W5500
 clk_pin: GPIO12
 mosi_pin: GPIO13
 miso_pin: GPIO11
 cs_pin: GPIO10
 interrupt_pin: GPIO14
 reset_pin: GPIO09
 use_address: !secret use_address_wired006
 # Optional manual IP
 #manual_ip:
 #  static_ip: 10.13.37.42
 #  gateway: 10.13.37.1
 #  subnet: 255.255.255.0
#
#captive_portal:

web_server:

i2c:
  - id: i2cbus_001
    sda: 17
    scl: 18
  - id: i2cbus_002
    sda: 7
    scl: 8

# Define the i2s controllers and their pins
# i2s_audio:
    # INMP441 MIC
#   - id: i2s_in
#     i2s_lrclk_pin: GPIO47 # INMP441 MIC WS
#     i2s_bclk_pin: GPIO21 # INMP441 MIC SCK
    # MAX9837A DAC
#   - id: i2s_out
#     i2s_lrclk_pin: GPIO15 # MAX9837A DAC LRC
#     i2s_bclk_pin: GPIO6 # MAX9837A DAC BCLK

# Expose the i2s components as pipeline elements
#adf_pipeline:
#   Create an I2SWriter pipeline element
#   using the i2s_out configuration
# - platform: i2s_audio
#   type: sink
#   id: adf_i2s_out
#   i2s_audio_id: i2s_out
#   i2s_dout_pin: GPIO5 # MAX9837A DAC DIN
#   mode: stereo
#   Create an I2SReader pipeline element
#   using the i2s_in configuration
# - platform: i2s_audio
#   type: source
#   id: adf_i2s_in
#   i2s_audio_id: i2s_in
#   i2s_din_pin: GPIO16 # INMP441 MIC SD
#   channel: left
#   sample_rate: 16000
#   bits_per_sample: 16bit

# voice_assistant:
#   microphone: adf_i2s_in
#
# Frequency Bit depth Available steps for transitions
# 1220Hz    16        65536
# 2441Hz    15        32768
# 4882Hz    14        16384
# 9765Hz    13        8192
# 19531Hz   12        4096

output:
  - platform: ledc
    pin: GPIO1
    id: led_cw
    frequency: 19531Hz
  - platform: ledc
    pin: GPIO2
    id: led_ww
    frequency: 19531Hz

light:
  - platform: cwww
    name: "Kitchen Counter Light"
    id: kitchen_counter_light
    cold_white: led_cw
    warm_white: led_ww
    cold_white_color_temperature: 6536 K
    warm_white_color_temperature: 2000 K
    constant_brightness: true
  # - platform: cwww
  #   name: "Kitchen Sink Light"
  #   id: kitchen_sink_light
  #   cold_white: led_cw2
  #   warm_white: led_ww2
  #   cold_white_color_temperature: 6536 K
  #   warm_white_color_temperature: 2000 K
  #   constant_brightness: true
#
sensor:
  - platform: ina3221
    address: 0x40
    i2c_id: i2cbus_002
    channel_1:
      shunt_resistance: 0.1 ohm
      current:
        name: "INA3221 Channel 1 Current"
      power:
        name: "INA3221 Channel 1 Power"
      bus_voltage:
        name: "INA3221 Channel 1 Bus Voltage"
      shunt_voltage:
        name: "INA3221 Channel 1 Shunt Voltage"
  #   channel_2:
  #     shunt_resistance: 0.1 ohm
  #     current:
  #       name: "INA3221 Channel 2 Current"
  #     power:
  #       name: "INA3221 Channel 2 Power"
  #     bus_voltage:
  #       name: "INA3221 Channel 2 Bus Voltage"
  #     shunt_voltage:
  #       name: "INA3221 Channel 2 Shunt Voltage"
  #   channel_3:
  #     shunt_resistance: 0.1 ohm
  #     current:
  #       name: "INA3221 Channel 3 Current"
  #     power:
  #       name: "INA3221 Channel 3 Power"
  #     bus_voltage:
  #       name: "INA3221 Channel 3 Bus Voltage"
  #     shunt_voltage:
  #       name: "INA3221 Channel 3 Shunt Voltage"
  #   update_interval: 60s
#
  - platform: custom
    lambda: |-
      auto vl6180x_sensor = new VL6180XSensor();
      App.register_component(vl6180x_sensor);
      return {vl6180x_sensor->distance_sensor};
    sensors:
      - name: "VL6180X Distance"
        unit_of_measurement: mm
        accuracy_decimals: 0
        id: distance_sensor
        # Fliter null values so the brightness doesn't go full at the end of the beem.
        filters:
          - filter_out: nan
        on_value:
          then:
            # Swipe gesture
            # Hand is swipped past sensor within 20-40mm turn On/Off
            - if:
                condition:
                  lambda: 'return !id(gesture_brightness).state && (id(distance_sensor).state < 40);'
                then:
                  - light.toggle: kitchen_counter_light
            # Hover gesture
            # Hand is above the sensor range of 40-200mm for more than 3 seconds.
            # Adjust brightness with hand up and down after that.
            - if:
                condition:
                  lambda: 'return id(gesture_brightness).state;'
                then:
                  - lambda: |-
                      // Map the distance range to brightness range 0 - 1
                      float brightness = (200 - id(distance_sensor).state) / 160.0;
                      auto call = id(kitchen_counter_light).turn_on();
                      call.set_brightness(brightness);
                      call.perform();
            # Double tap gesture
            - if:
                condition:
#
                  lambda: 'return id(gesture_double_tap).state;'
                  #lambda:  'return id(distance_sensor).state < 40;'
                then:
                  - lambda: |-
                      auto call = id(kitchen_counter_light).turn_on();
                      // Switch between cold white, warm white, and both strings
                      static int state = 0;
                      if (state == 0) {
                        call.set_cold_white(1);
                        call.set_warm_white(0);
                      } else if (state == 1) {
                        call.set_cold_white(0);
                        call.set_warm_white(1);
                      } else {
                        call.set_cold_white(1);
                        call.set_warm_white(1);
                      }
                      state = (state + 1) % 3;  // Cycle through the states
                      call.set_brightness(0.5);
                      call.perform();
#
binary_sensor:
  #  Hand is swipped past sensor within 20-40mm toggle On/Off
  - platform: template
    name: "Gesture On/Off"
    id: gesture_on_off
    #lambda: 'return !id(gesture_brightness).state && (id(distance_sensor).state < 40);'
    lambda: 'return !id(gesture_brightness).state && !id(gesture_double_tap).state && (id(distance_sensor).state < 40);'

  # Hand is above the sensor range of 40-200mm for more than 3 seconds.
  # Adjust brightness with hand up and down after that.
  - platform: template
    name: "Gesture Brightness Control"
    id: gesture_brightness
    # Time_on you have to hold your hand in front of the sensor above 40mm.
    # Time_off you have to go outside of the beem for it to no longer trigger brightness.
    filters:
      - delayed_on_off:
          time_on: 3s
          time_off: 4s
    lambda: 'return (id(distance_sensor).state <= 190 && id(distance_sensor).state >= 40);'
  # !id(gesture_brightness).state &&
  # Double tap gesture
  - platform: template
    name: "Gesture Double Tap"
    id: gesture_double_tap
    lambda: |-
      static uint32_t last_tap = 0;
      static uint32_t last_double_tap = 0;
      static bool is_tap = false;
      if (id(distance_sensor).state < 40) {
        if (!is_tap) {
          is_tap = true;
          last_tap = millis();
        } else if (millis() - last_tap < 500 && millis() - last_double_tap > 1000) {  // 500 ms for a double tap, 1000 ms delay after a double tap
          is_tap = false;
          last_double_tap = millis();
          return true;
        }
      } else {
        is_tap = false;
      }
      return false;
#

Wiring was off in the first picture.

glass nymph
delicate whale
#

Definitely better LED strip than what I'm using.

glass nymph
#

YAML should hopefully be the same basically

delicate whale
#

yeah, basically

#

Kinda liking the gesture control

#

Odd question, how warm is that LED strip?
Got a plan for toilet-room lighting, but my intentions is to use a 3d printed (i.e. plastic) housing and not much of anything to sink heat into

glass nymph
#

If I remove that. They turn into the sun.

#

Even that aluminum profile is under the heat disipation they require. If you want to enable them for blinding bright.

delicate whale
#

yeah, was worried that was the case

#

Is that why the ethernet connector? too much shielding?

glass nymph
#

I avoid Wi-Fi at all costs.

delicate whale
#

I wish I had that option

glass nymph
#

The worst thing was trying to solder 16AWG between all the strips... Pulling pads up is rough...

delicate whale
#

Ya, I'm deff wanting to try some of the clip-on connectors next time

glass nymph
#

I wonder how those deal with high amps

delicate whale
#

Do you have the Voice Assistant running on it?

delicate whale
glass nymph
#

If all else fails I'll just use the second ethernet port there for it.

#

Kind of out of room in the metal can. Maybe make an external unit that can plug into it.

#

Did my config help you at all minus the feature creep options or it was basically the same and just a hardware fault of that box you were using?

#

Light really annoys my eyes, so I was attempting to get the highest quality/frequency plausible to see if it helped.

#

So far they have lasted longer than most LED bulbs around here so I'm happy with the setup.

#

Quindor has some nice analog ready made boxes as well that shouldn't disapoint. I would have bought those if they were ready while I was doing this project.

delicate whale
glass nymph
#

Wonder why you would thing the product would have been tested to work and turn off.

delicate whale
glass nymph
#

Hide them better ๐Ÿ˜„

delicate whale
glass nymph
#

tops of shelves etc nobody looks up there.

delicate whale
#

Next one is Christmas Tree lights - strip the battery packs of the lights kids bought in years past, replace with something like barrel connectors, and then make a small box with controller and receptacles

#

Some hiding possible, but has to suit temporary setups

glass nymph
#

Hopefully we see it in the show-off posts!

delicate whale
#

I still need to post last year's bathroom extractor fan project there ๐Ÿ˜†

glass nymph
#

No time like now!

delicate whale
#

I need to rewrite some of the yaml - doesn't even compile with latest ESPHome

#

and I need to rewrite the YAML for the printer lights to use some new features from later ESPHome versions

#

but now, teaching some zaffer how to record footage

glass nymph
glass nymph
delicate whale
glass nymph
#

Where's the picture of the final install?

delicate whale
#

In my archives somewhere ๐Ÿ™‚

delicate whale
glass nymph
#

Nice work!

delicate whale
low pollen
glass nymph
#

Nah it's perfect

low pollen
#

them boys (and the clips that are available for such) are like.. 20-22awg maximum

#

being capable and being the right choice are two different things.. ๐Ÿ˜›

#

... and also if you're lifting pads.. what sort of solder were you even using?

glass nymph
#

Silver SAC305

low pollen
#

yeah; there's your problem.

use leaded solder unless you absolutely have to.

glass nymph
#

no

low pollen
#

... and if you must use that lead-free..

#

... use flux

glass nymph
#

I must and I do

low pollen
#

because the flux core is comically insufficient

#

especially around the thermal mass of 16gauge wire.

#

I like how the web site for that solder link comes up with.. them using it in a goddamn wave soldering machine that nobody in a hobby space will ever see. ๐Ÿ˜›

#

(dont have to get it there; but yeah.. tacky flux kicks ass.)

#

especially for thick wires.

... god lead-free solder is such a bastard when you're trying to tin wires

glass nymph
low pollen
#

the good shit yeah.. ๐Ÿค” and yet you were still lifting pads or having issues?

#

pre-tinning wires before trying to solder them down?

#

... what soldering iron then?

#

because with that flux and a decent.. (modern?) iron it shouldnt be a problem.

unless you're using wildly wrong tip or something.

glass nymph
#

Hakko with a chisel tip to apply a lot of heat.

low pollen
#

(and by modern I mean more regarding.. thermal mass of the soldering iron.. older style stuff like radioshack stuff had pitiful wattage/thermal mass that didnt deal with things well)

#

ahhh hakko.

... such nice quality.

such dogshit control schemes on their digital stuff.

glass nymph
#

Ideally these high power strips should have the copper embedded into the membrain

low pollen
#

Hakko Engineers when asked about "seperate up and down buttons for temperature"

low pollen
#

with... not terribly thick copper for obvious reasons.

glass nymph
#

The auxmer has a lot of copper but too much heat and the thick wires seperates them easy.

low pollen
#

I have installed...

#

10 aisles in a warehouse full of 24VDC LED strips.

#

๐Ÿ˜‰

glass nymph
#

It's basically just keep slicing of sections until you get it ๐Ÿ˜„

low pollen
#

๐Ÿ˜› no I still argue you need thinner wire

#

just look at the wire they come with on the spools

#

(though don't look too close.. ew.. that stiff PVC.)

glass nymph
#

It's recommended to not use the 18AWG that they come with as it's not suitible for deployment on long lengths.

low pollen
#

... more like you shouldn't be using single-power-point injection on long runs.

#

I am wondering how damn large of a kitchen you arae in tho ๐Ÿ˜›

glass nymph
#

It goes all the way around the room and then also supplies the over head illumination as well.

low pollen
#

yeah.. Ideally you'd have the PSU tapped into it at multiple points.

glass nymph
#

It is

low pollen
#

... goddamn strips have gotten so much more expensive these days.. fuuuck.

glass nymph
#

I blame the youtubers

low pollen
#

I blame fuckwits and tariffs. ๐Ÿ˜‰

glass nymph
#

Fair enough!

low pollen
#

acatually wait no.. you just... chose realaly expensive ones? ๐Ÿคฃ

glass nymph
#

I wanted the highest CRI with max gambit of deep colours all the way to halloween esq saturation.

low pollen
#

(fabric warehouse.. needed good even white for color acacuracy.. etc.. etc..)

#

I think the COB ones also.. tend to be better for heat as well as the diode itself is direct-bonded to the substrate of the PCB rather than another package and etc.

glass nymph
#

Auxmer usually have the best colour accuracy I have seen so far. Food looks like food.

low pollen
#

๐Ÿคฃ

glass nymph
#

Nothing like the 20KHz to prevent rolling frames while recording ๐Ÿ˜„

low pollen
#

now I must grab some of those VL6180X's for my ever-expanding box of shit.. ๐Ÿ˜›

#

I mean.. you can also get that with a proper linear driver instead of PWM at all. ๐Ÿ˜„

glass nymph
glass nymph
low pollen
#

I never saaid I had a good reason.. ๐Ÿ˜„

glass nymph
#

Hey, that is why I do everything.

low pollen
#

you clearly need more wire tho... duh... ๐Ÿ˜›

glass nymph
#

The next person that gets this house is going to have a field day recycling all the copper in it.

low pollen
#

smaller project wire..

#

16/18/20gauge+some micro coaxial antenna stuff..

#

... all of which is FEP sleeved because I am like that. ๐Ÿ™ƒ

#

.. also because silicone is trasah that can break/be frayed waaaay too easily.

delicate whale
low pollen
#

thanks to fuckwit, I will (fairly safely) assume. ๐Ÿ˜„

glass nymph
#

now stick it in a cupboard

low pollen
#

nah.. I dont have that much extraneous amount of wire

#

its mostly used for smalal project wiring/occasionally in mains AC boxes in short runs between switches/smart stuff and wagos

#

(yes yes blah blah.. technically not code.. on the other hand its wire that can handle 200c+ and is nice and flexible to make the boxes not want to kill myself when dealing with em..)

#

use the proper crimps in places and things become much more sane.. ๐Ÿ˜„

glass nymph
#

Just be carful FEP is toxic ๐Ÿ˜„ the more it rubs on stuff, the amazing things it dispurses in the air.

low pollen
#

FEP is inert.

The manufacturing shit is not.

#

๐Ÿ™ƒ don't worry they stopped dumping it into the water table! (technically at least as they move onto using a very very very similar chemical that is yet unproven to be doing the same damage or worse!)

#

but i know what it can do if overheated.. I got into all this after doing 3d printing where thats a bit important.. ๐Ÿ˜„

glass nymph
#

Yup heat does wonders for VOCs ๐Ÿ˜„

#

I remember the first sensor I setup and turned on a print, just rockets to the moon... I'm like yup we're all dead.

low pollen
#

keep the flavor sealed in your printer duh.

glass nymph
#

Lick it!

low pollen
#

(primarily ABS printing)

#

the cheapest shittiest ABS I can get..

Thus.. mmm styrene

#

printer is sealed. ๐Ÿ˜‰

glass nymph
#

What does the full encasement look like?

low pollen
#

port-hole camera in door through a bit of glass too. ๐Ÿ˜„

glass nymph
#

Yay Voron!

low pollen
#

yep.

#

and its so well seaaled I can't smell anything while its printing so.. ๐Ÿคทโ€โ™‚๏ธ (trust me zyltech fucking reaks I would absolutely know if it was leaking..)

glass nymph
low pollen
#

oh they despise being heated at all.. I'm very well aware.

#

its a pi camera.

#

glass slide from a microscope on the inside to keep it more-or-less shielded

#

since regular glass is not infrared permeable anyways.. not that it woudl matter as I do have to turn the heat down to avoid melting my parts until I actually.. ever.. settle down and finish mods ๐Ÿ˜›

glass nymph
#

A labour of love that never ends!

low pollen
#

its more-or-less 99% modded parts

#

the side panels are air-gapped insulation

#

that gap does a lot

glass nymph
#

Whatever works and if it doesn't, make it work ๐Ÿ˜„

low pollen
#

reminds me I need to...

#

get m y reflow oven working once more...

#

so I can build some boards.

glass nymph
#

Just use your printer as as the reflow oven ๐Ÿ˜„

low pollen
#

because trying to use my klipper-driven lab oven... overcooked some components. ๐Ÿ’”

#

nah, bed magnet adhesive is not good up to the temps I'd need it

#

built my voron before that.. lohmann shit became popular/well known

glass nymph
#

Remove the surface first ๐Ÿ˜„

#

hot swappable plates!

low pollen
#

nah. ๐Ÿ™ƒ

glass nymph
#

Common you need more work for no reason.

low pollen
#

tried using this.

Its heat curve was too slow and cooked my multiplexing IC and the LEDs onboard. (I hope its just those components..)

#

made a lab-oven klipper powered to have a controllable high-temperature drying/annealing oven ๐Ÿ˜›

glass nymph
#

Just add a stealthchanger so you can etch boards, squirt solder paste, vaccum pick and place parts and then flow the board. I know you want to.

low pollen
#

I mean I have..

#

a wire edm kit from rackrobo here..

#

and etc.. that I still need to make; sadly.. ๐Ÿ˜›

glass nymph
#

Do it!

low pollen
#

one day I want a MOPA laser

#

those things are fucking sick.

#

etching colors on metal; etc etc

glass nymph
#

its only a tool change away

low pollen
#

you dont put a fiber laser on a toolchanger ๐Ÿ˜›

#

you use a galvo head

glass nymph
#

I believe in you to do it

low pollen
#

also I made jokes at someone on the voron server who has partial blindness in an eye due to a lasaer incident