US dryers and washing machines use 208V with enormous plugs, but you can still monitor them using devices that can run on 208V, in this case two sonoff powr2 I had around - no transformer clamps required. Ignore the neutral, and connect the meters on the two live wires. My biggest expense was the the plugs. You also get to pretend you're European, and do an accent. My dryer uses 10A at peak power, and the sonoffs are rated for 15A and have a fuse inside.
#USA 208V power monitor for dryer and washing machine
13 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
my comment would be to monitor the temperature within the enclosure/box as there may be risk of elevated temperatures due to lack of airflow
Yeah I previously had the Sonoffs without a box in Europe and they ran not even lukewarm, but you're right. You can't really use the extra GPIO unfortunately because, as I understand it, it runs at a higher voltage.
You could use one of the spare GPIO for a temp sensor within the box, the higher voltage is only an issue if you were to touch it, just make sure you pickup the internal 3.3 vdc for powering the sensor. I have a ttl to rs485 converter for modbus and a DHT11 sensor all running off a sonoff basic 10a.
Ah, good idea. I have a few Dallas DS18b20 sensors somewhere.
You may want to terminate the wires with ferrules, before sticking them into the screw terminals. I read some paper that confirmed that when non-terminated stranded wire is clamped by the screw terminal - resistance tends to grow a lot over time. This may cause it to heat up, oxidize and grow resistance even more, eventually resulting in a fire hazard.
This is funny, I was just contemplating monitoring my washer with a smart plug.
I take it tinning qualifies as "terminated?"
Or does it need to be a fork or ring terminal?
No, tinning only make it much worse than even bare stranded wire.
I meant ferrule crimp - one that just compresses. These are supposed to be inserted into a hole in the terminal and tighten down by the screw.
Off course, if your terminal is exposed (conductive base and exposed screw, then you’ll need fork or ring terminals https://hackaday.com/2018/04/12/to-ferrule-or-not-to-ferrule/
I guess I'll add that to my wish list
I think if I were to do it again I'd look at shelly stuff