#Miniature painting šØ
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https://pbs.twimg.com/media/GJKnbW8WQAEsEkV?format=jpg&name=large Thought: what if I did the first half of a "slap chop" paintjob on these guys (specifically the advanced version where you do multiple layers of black to grey to white) but then just did a black wash over some parts for like, a Sin City look. Maybe pick out some details in red.
I'm specifically thinking how these guys are intended as frontier ranger types but I think they turn into trenchcoated goons really quick if you put them in an urban environment.
Hmm, fair. Can the Zeta REM do that too?
Yeah, the rems that come with remote presence TAGs are for doing stuff like that without endangering a human pilot
Ah sweet.
Worse at it than human pilots tho
But if they get shot ur tag doesnt tuen into an expensive brick
Monolith color test, the coreās actually fantastic for practice since 90% of it gets covered up
Comparing to my armyās usual turquoise
Finished up that suit I was working on, with bonus kitchen background
(Cuz it's the only place in my dang house with decent lighting lol)
ooo! looks pretty unique
Lore wise they're a legion from 30k that got lost in the warp for 10 thousand years. This led to warp mutations.
Soon they emerged once more in the 41st millennia, now with newer tech and equipment they kill from afar and leave no witnesses.
At least until the Emperor can forgive them for their mutated forms
So they count as a Traitor Legion, but they wear the insignia as proof of their undying loyalty, even though they are shunned
this guy has a proto-esque face quite literally because there is nothing resembling a face under the helmet
he would DIE if he took it off
niiice
It feels finished already
I love what some clear coat does to a transparent piece.
Get in the fucking shower (As in i'm showering them in Leadbelcher)
I'm warming up to the purple shoulder/kneepad on my marines
It felt empty without color so i made one pauldron black and one purple. Same for the kneepads
Damn that looks nice
I have some black models that I need to find a decent color splash for
practice and thinned paints
Yeah, that's the basis.
Along with that, getting a feel for colours can also help.
I think that's the three pilars of mini painting. Brush control, paint control, and colour. From there you can pull off any effect or scheme that you want.
I have only three of many for my army, but its aight
Honestly I just sprayed em with Leadbelcher because thats what their armor color is
It helps that the machine bits are also gunmetal
these are so good oh my goooosh
goals
Thank you! Theyre pretty mediocre compared to other minid, but these ones are mine and thats all that matters!
They're like something I wish I owned for the same reason. It's being added to the "motivation" pile.
Oh?
Drybrushing and washes are magic
Exhibit 1
Nice direwolf
90% of mini painting Skills is like. drybrushing, washes, and then patience. Wet palette helps automate the thinning paints part, highly recommend
Lil fella wishes he was a direwolf lol
I beg to differ on that. They're absolutely great techniques, but there's plenty more you can do.
As of late, I haven't found myself using any drybrushing at all, and minimal washing.
I want to say like silver/grey/white or such to contrast with the black
Maybe some day Iāll find a use for her in game
Was really happy using an airbrush
Undersprays are really cool for lighting and transitions
dope!!
Aight same mini as before (Sorry for spam)
But with actually decent lighting this time cuz my friend got a light box
I wish I had time to paint all 31 of em neatly, but I've only finished half of em, and left the others with some base colours and a marking or two.
Time to demo my own game tonight.
New @vallejocolors Model Color Metallics.
LOOK AT THAT BLUE!!!!
WTF
That's the curvest ball to have ever been curved and I love it.
#warhammercommunity https://t.co/TSOVVYM4wL
š 190 š 7
And that blue looks fucking mint on nightlords
metallic blue night lords, that's something I haven't seen since high school
my buddy had a night lords army painted in automotive metallics, back in the days before good paint
Oooo
Extremely based
the 90s were a time
An age of darkness, an age of wonders
š Try the new Model Colors with a discount: https://geni.us/vallejomodelcolor *
š¤ My hand-painted swatches: https://www.patreon.com/stahlytaleofpainters/shop
šØ Free tutorials & reviews: https://taleofpainters.com
All you need to know about the updated Vallejo Model Color range in one video. I've tested all 220 colours and will address all your ...
Pros of living in the desert: it's not humid so I can spray paint primer all year round
Cons of living in the desert: it's hitting 100 so I have to spray in the morning
Your paint also dries super fast! You don't get much working time but you don't get the kind of chalky tearing that happens when you work on only mostly dry paint.
I was really surprised at how different painting felt when I visited my friend in Colorado. I live in the Southeast so im used to painting in mega humidity.
Yeah, getting a wet pallet has been a real benefit.
Friend has a new 3D printer, so he printed one of my vehicle designs.
Could be better but I like to think I did okay
Oh thatās a nice green glow effect
Made some spooky armigers
Used some tau and eldar bits to make one of them into a xenarite admech armiger
i liked how my blade champ turned out
I too like how your blade champ turned out.
Lol thought the I-Beam was a roller blade
a horrifying technology the goliaths can never aquire for the sake of us all
There is no ends I would not go to for a +2" to Movement
+2 movement, automatically take initiative test when within 2" of a ledge
Chaos cult focused on slannesh gives you +2" on your leader
There is a reason Juice is his own faction on Yaktribe
Metallic mostly done for these dogs
Their machine spirits are fine don't worry about it
Asking here because I was told this would be a good place: Iām getting back into mini painting, gonna by painting up my CIA advisors/PMC guys and my insurgent models once I go out and grab the stuff to make a wet palette tomorrow. Anyone know of any tutorials around painting models in more civilian-ish clothes? Most of the minis are basically in street clothes + combat pants and load bearing equipment, so Iām not exactly looking for how to do camo right now.
Basically Iām not very confident at all about being able to make my own paint scheme for stuff, so having someone(s) examples of how to paint various bits of gear and clothing can be really helpful for me
The Marvel Crisis Protocol scene has some tutorials for things like shirts and jeans and such. Mostly thanks to Luke Cage, Lizard, etc.
Iāll take a look, Tactical Blue Jeans is a long-standing tradition
Man, saying that and looking through some reference photos I have reminded me of one of the odder historical (1991) military photos:
Hmmm, looks like Citadelās contrast paint Levidon Blue might work well for jeans at least
I come back again with another question: anyone know of any paint schemes to replicate MARPAT? Iām obviously not gonna be duplicating the pattern, but more just getting the colors making it up correct and then suggesting the pattern via painting
Never tried this but this seems nice
I ended up finding a slightly different one that Iām gonna give a shot, I may post a picture and the formula if I think it turns out okay
But thatāll be for another day
I think the most important part is getting a good match for coyote brown
As MARPAT starts to fade, you quickly lose contrast between the green and tan elements and the coyote brown base
Yeah, thatās something Iāve noticed with some reference images
I decided to time how long it takes to paint a single Battletech mech.
Hour 3 and all the details aren't on...
Ooh nice. I gotta get around to finishing the details on my first one eventually š
Might as well hop on the Battletech train with some terrain.
And they're finished.
Oh that's nice.
consummate professionals didnt dress up for book covers way back when, Delta had just been formed when that man Mike Vining joined and the particually stupid culture that SF gained post 9/11 hadnt started yet
Removing the Draft did very strange things to the mind set of americans
Yeah, Vining is one of the examples of how a good chunk of SF guys used to look like Barbecue Dads while also probably being some of the scariest guys in a given room beneath that
And I will say that the biggest mouths seem to be in the SEALs, you donāt tend to see as many Delta guys shooting their mouth off
Though, back on topic, Iām painting some web gear on the minis I referenced earlier, and since the ones Iām working on now seem to be surplus ALICE gear Iām trying to figure out what color would look best for that. Currently testing Vallejo Russian Uniform WWII and considering Valejo Cam. Olive Green, if anyone has any thoughts let me know (also, any ideas for highlight colors would be appreciated)
Also I thiiiiiink I may have a candidate for the Coyote color in MARPAT, I think after a wash Valejo German Orange Ochre might work?
this is probably a good place to ask
anyone got good suggestions for cheap/easy/cool 3d printable minis?
Probably start looking on Thingiverse and such, and thereās a lot of smaller companies that are selling STL files of their minis or terrain these days
Honestly seeing how many companies sell STLs these days Iām seriously considering getting a printer when I have a For Real Job that pays For Real Money
i lucked into one for free
(i then proceeded to spend several hundred dollars on the shit i needed to actually be able to print and not poison myself while doing it)
I may try and see if my university has one that I can get print time on, if so I might try printing some Humvees and such
I think they might since thereās a reasonably sized engineering department
And yeah, not dying from resin fumes is good
Even with age, ALICE webbing stays so dark, I think Russian Uniform with a highlight that tends yellow (like VMC Golden Olive) would capture it
Back in da blending mines
Painted a friend's model in a lil art trade thingy last week, was going for a like, spooky haunted tree look
Definitely far from my normal painting style but I think it turned out alright
Just appreciating this
Helldiver tapletop wargame :D
that looks sickas hell, nice work!
3 breachers done and all it took was spilling Nuln Oil at the last second...
Nuln oil and agrax earthshade are magic potions of āfinish modelā I swear
sacrificed to the machine god
4 hours and 20 minutes. I'd feel OK taking him for a spin on the table now, but there's easily another hour 30+ of work to do.
Made a horrible mistake where I got the tourqouise steel on his back and head, but some extremely delicate dry brushing returned him to normal.
The place on his right shoulder and head where there are no spots - pretty proud of the patch job, to be honest.
Finished up my first ctan shard, the Void Dragon
Been working off & on since January, very pleased with myself
Looks neat, nice blending on the lightning/cube skin/hole bit
Tesseract Glow is powerful, the wing crystal inlay & tailblades are only spot I actually consciously blended
Unsure how this came out, on the one hand I know that I probably canāt replicate the MARPAT pattern but also not sure how this pattern I used came out.
I guess I could try maybe stippling it with a stipple brush or foam?
And itās not been washed yet
The middle and right ones I feel turned out better of the three, but still unsure overall
I agree with you about the center one and I think itās because out of the three it comes closest to capturing how marpat is a very horizontally-oriented pattern
Iām probably gonna be popping in for further stuff on this project, mostly because I suck at making paint schemes.
Also, mostly because it would be frustrating to do on top of another camo, even though my references mostly show the load bear equipment seeming to be US woodland or British DPM pattern, I think I probably wanna just do them as plain green or tan. For the green I think Iām gonna do Vallejo Russian Uniform WWII, but unsure for that cordura tan look and unsure of what a good highlight for the Russian Uniform WWII would be after it gets washed
Also, Iāve got several minis in what Iād term ābattlefield casualā that Iām not sure how to paint up that I may be soliciting advice/opinions on
Several of these guys and gals are real neat, Iāll get pictures when itās not about time to go to sleep, one of my favorites is the absolute chillest marksman in the world just sitting on a pile of cinder blocks
Mixing and matching camo patterns at scale is a tough sell; ideally, you want a lot of contrast between the two
Like the classic desert storm look where the woodland mopp suit is offset by the chocolate chip helmet cover
even I, notorious for tidiness and not spilling fuckin anything amongst friends and family, have spilled nuln oil. It is indeed part of being a real painter
those fuckin GW pots
not quite nuln oil but i've spilled agrax earthshade, which feels close enough
Also finally finished the other two crisis suits of my new team, working on my coldstar and shadowsun next
Do NOT fuck the GW pots.
Love these. Nice work on the metallic wear n tear!
Primed my SOTs, to lazy to base them tho :]
Wait whatās the color scheme of Prodigal Sons? Cuz how I get it is:
- Armor: Royal Blue
- Trim: Gold
- Robes: Magenta
sot?
Scarab Occult Terminators
counterintuitively you don't want to get the tiniest brush you can find, just something quality that'll hold a really nice tip
Definitely pays to get a nice sable in a 1 or 0. I'm partial to the classic Windsor and Newton but there's plenty of good options.
Yeah, I was weirded out when my partner told me that anything past a 0 isn't actually a finer tip.
and the fewer bristles you have the less paint it'll hold
and ofc once you buy that nice brush for details you have to take care of it, if paint gets up in the ferrule and dries that point is gooooone
I have ruined so many brushes :)
I've picked up a little block of brush soap, and it has allowed me to reshape the tips of my brushes really easily, as well as clean them out more than with just water. That's been a massive help for me.
I have an awful habit of pushing paint which tends to dull or curl tips
Trying to get better about it
How does one not absolutely ruin their brushes?
Donāt let paint get up into the ferrule, brush soap, wash lukewarm water, dry hanging with bristles pointing down
Also synethic brushes will just self destruct after like 4-5 minis max
As with all things buy quality and care for it
āBuy once, cry onceā
don't leave it in the water pot tip-down
I threaten those that are still intact by making examples out of bad brushes for dirty work such as resin, glue, enamel paint, etc.
Fear keeps them in shape, though a little stiff and shaky sometimes.
"you're becoming THE STIPPLE BRUSH"
Exactly. Nobody wants to become the brush for resin spot repairs.
or the blood brush
You get it.
does using a lukewarm water pot as opposed to cold help with brush life?
I donāt think so; when washing, lukewarm is in lieu of truly hot water which can damage the glue in the ferrule
i see
Painted my first ever killteam, had these models poorly painted for a while but came back to repaint them for killteam.
If only my sorcerer could actually take this plasma pistol
poorly painted ain't anything bad. the important thing is you did it
Poorly painted is almost always better than not painted 
Exactly. Painting's the only way to improve painting.
Besides, I've started repainting some minis that I painted extremely poorly and never even finished properly, and it's highly rewarding.
This was a mini from when I was basically just starting out. Figured the sculpt deserved more, so I picked it back up.
Could not be happier I did.
Hell yeah, that looks sick
I personally think the only sacred mini is the first one you ever do
All others can be retouched
Same although my ultramarines probably will go untouched, itās nice to see my progression as a painter
Same although my ultramarines probably will go untouched, itās nice to see my progression as a painter
No idea why that double sent
Discord and/or telecom bug, don't worry about it
I don't play tau anymore but I keep my first pathfinders on my shelf
They rough as hell lmao
Yeah, fair.
tree!
Hey how does everyone care for their brushes here?
It seems like every brush I have kinda gets ruined way too fast
B&J Brush cleaner all the way
Contrast paints fuck up brushes more then other paints, so i tend to apply those with a crappy brush.
Then keep another brush nice for regular acrylics
Wash your brushes out after every session, make sure to rub in the brush cleaner into the base of the bristles, you want to slowly massage out the paint stuck in that area.
What type of brushes are you using?
Idk, I had a citadel paint brush because I wanted to support my lgs and now I'm just using brushes from Michaels the sign says they were for acrylics. I think it's hair not synthetic
Ok! Regardless of their type making sure to clean out the base of the brush like I said and massage out the paint will help. I think B&J is technically for natural hair brushes but itāll still work for your synthetics
You can get the brush wet with some of the B&J then push it around your palm in circles, then wash it off and repeat until clean. You can also use your fingernail and push from the base forward to push material out. Both ways you should see the detergent discolor and pigment come out of the brush.
I should get some brush cleaner, but Iāve had a perfectly fine experience just having a water cup to clean it off with every now and then, and gently pulling and rolling the brush across a paper towel to clean off any excess paint and reform the tip
Brush cleaner is very handy when you're using certain paints, like oil washes, which can destroy brushes if not cleaned thoroughly.
Texture paint too.
lasts forever to, been a thing of masters brush cleaner in our workshop for like a decade
Musou Black paint apparently. I think I need to get my hands on this for...reasons.
funnn
What minis are these?
A couple of them are GW, but the others I don't recognize.
I kinda wanna see a comparison between Musou, Vanta and Black 4.0
Good luck getting vanta unless you're anish Kapoor, and if you are.... who the fuck is giving you black 4.0? You know the rules
Vanta is mostly there for comparison. The comparison could also be extended with Black 2.0 and 3.0 (don't remember if he made a 1.0)
Mostly just interested in Musou vs 4.0
fair
Ive thought about getting musuo for when I finally start doing my kingdom death minis...
Painted a tree.
https://www.reapermini.com/search/tree/latest/44131 Reaper's Tree of Despair. The hanging guy is a bit from the Mantic Giant kit.
I found that Xpress Mummy White over a zenithal, followed by a raw umber oil wash, does a lot of work for trees. Pleasantly surprised by the results.
looks fantastic!
A combination of Deth Wizards and Elden Ring (and the ever-present brain rot of Bloodborne) has me wanting to finish up the graveyard terrain idea I half-started years ago so this is kinda kickstarting that.
Will standard spray paints work as primers?
no
What about non-specific primers?
I'd use primer for miniatures other stuff can be too thick
Gotcha
depends on the mini size, I've used auto primer before but as cyan says it can be too thick
not on anything with a ton of detail
So thatās a no go for TSons
Good old krylon has been priming for me for a decade and change
grey Krylon Ultra Flat my beloved
Damn TAP fanatic is really good
Oooh, have you got some?
Ye
Mr hobby primer is what I use and it works great
WIP, looking for some input on whether I should paint in the eyes like in the official paint scheme or leave them dark/make them flat black.
They just gotta Pop imho, the more contrast the better. Flat black could work
I think there's a bunch of options. Going for a red or pink would work, and it'd give you some saturation and contrast. A yellowy gold colour would work really wel IMO, like true metallic gold. Give you that little shine. Even a venom green. Either way, I do think painting them in, along with a few other glowy bits, will help push your mini to another level by both adding a little visual clutter to make it feel more real and less like an action figure, and by helping to draw the viewing eye to certain spots, which creates interest and depth.
Final choice, put some metallics behind a glaze for a shine effect, which doesn't translate super great to photo.
So, hereās what Iām working on currently. Anyone have any ideas what FAL guyās sweater and hat color should be? Also, anyone know what a good color for the wood on the various guns should be, or what might be a good color for the RPG warhead? Or the scarves/hats on several of them? Iām never great at figuring out colors for various things.
Also featuring various background minis Iām not working on at this moment
For wood I do either satchel brown speedpaint, or a flat brown and then drybrush a tan on top.
RPG-7 warheads are usually something like olive green, you can use the one you used for the camo.
Thems some big Teef
Black Orc BSB, im very happy with his symbol if not the flag
Damn you freehanded that?
Yah
Damn
Ooh Termination Spotted
Yah!! My gf is excited about building the stealers
the trick to the freehand was laying the brush down in the shapes I wanted, new brush really helped with drawing the outline
I did a few tests with just water to get the shape right
trying to paint tan on black primer was a bad idea
doable, but a bad idea nonetheless
I'm probably going to finish up this project as is since I have a few tanks and 2 or so mechs to finish
but if I do a light color in the future I'm going to start by priming the minis in the base when I can
2 10,000 thin coats
Your dedication to not just trowing on massive layers is noted and appreciated.
Medium grey primer really is the way to go across the board imho
Changed the game for me when I stopped having to build light values all the way up from black
Terrible photo but I got ahold of an OG marine from rogue trader
He is an adorable lead guy
Also his right leg has an imprint of the sculptorās fingerprint
Heelllll yes
It'll make a nice addition to my BMG table, hopefully.
Anyone have any tips on painting black cloth? Iām painting up some Generic Insurgent Bad Guys and wanna do it well
Like, have it look like cloth and not something else
https://youtu.be/IwI80Bv9BGk?si=cFbsDzObO2v4M1Y1 flips a table this motherfucker out here doing the best tank I've ever seen (I've followed him for his other stuff/weathering advice and info on model tanks)
My friends, let's try to paint a Warhammer Sicaran Battle Tank using some standard armor weathering techniques - hairspray chipping, post shading, enamel washes, rust effects painted with oil paints, and LAYERS of mud running down the sides!
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/nightshiftmodeller
VMS: https://www.vms-supplies.com/ coupon: UNCLE-NS...
Makes my iron fist tank look like trash š«
(it was my first attempt at any sort of larger scale project and I specifically was inspired by NightShift so I just find it very funny that he went and now literally did the same thing except perfect lmao)
My mostly finished project from like a year ago at this point
Anyways, highly recommend the nightshift channel, incredible painter/modeller
I like to do hatching strokes with brushes to help fake cloth-texture
Scratchy highlights are a good way to indicate texture yeah
Working away at some more terrain.
First contrast paint attempts. Useful stuff. Still need a darker red I think and to xenithal a little more to get rid of the black entirely.
They're less vibrant than my acrylic jobs, and I can't tell how much of that is the paint or that I didn't put enough grey and white underneath. Regardless, they're still so, so much faster than regular painting that I'm going to switch to them for a bit.
(There's some edge highlighting on the red and orange blackjack too)
Grey undercoats on contrast paints will make them darker and less vribrant. Undercoating with a light color (like pink for oranges) can keep up sautration.
Ok, that's a good idea. I'll pick up some regular paints of pink and others when I grab my deep red contrast paint.
yeah basecoating pink for yellows and oranges is a classic tip
this is a good look at what different basecoats do to contrast paints
Ok yeah so I think my plan will be to drybrush heavy with some non-grey colors and try again
I still only have black primer, but that helps with shadows
Also I have a billion blackjacks so i can get more to paint lol
My normal contrast routine is prime whatever, airbrush my "dark" tone like pink, then airbrush or drybrush white to pick up highlights
Basecoatibg yellows with contrasts or Avery and sunset helps immensely
How'd you end up with that many blackjacks?
There's 1 in the striker box, the wolf's dragoon box, and the AS box.
I have no real need for another dragoon box but another set of strikers or 2 would be great and the AS mech selection is good too
Fair enough. Just don't get more than 21, I suppose.
Ahahaha
Science says a black jack with 2x large lasers and x2 medium lasers should cook the pilot
The blackjack pilot cannot read and simply ignores the lights
If your gun barrels haven't melted by the time they put you down, you weren't fighting hard enough.
I have severely underestimated how much work this was gonna be.
And after this, it's on to the second tile.
That's four out of the five tiles ready for some graffiti/posters on the edge and then done.
Just another 450-500 little white squares to go.
Hell yeah. How big of a table will this make?
It can vary a lot depending on how wide things are spaced, but the goal is 90x90 cm for the Batman Miniature Game.
I'm constantly messing around with setups.
how do you do, fellow painters
progress has begun on the hierotek circle, and i'm still kind of freewheeling with regards to palette and process
i seek the advice of the old masters: am i cooking here?
do forgive the camera quality
It's very hard to go wrong with black and gold, and a hint of green never hurt anybody. So as far as your palette goes, you're not cooking anything extreme, but rather a golden oldie.
i'm cooking a humble and hearty stew, is what you're saying
Yes. Tried and true.
Couple of crew members for a Space Station Zero crew.
Whole crew. Gotta varnish them and take better photos.
That looks fantastic! How'd you make the models?
Primarily bits from Anvil Industries. Head, body, arms, and guns are from Anvil, and I've filled in with whatever I had in my bitz box.
The various bottles and jars are 3D prints a friend gave me, and the mechanical arms on the backpacks are from some old Warmachine model (I forget which).
I thought I recognized the Anvil!
I'd gotten one of their bitz bags and it had a toooooon of stuff and, well. Gimme a box of bitz and I'll make some stuff.
This mini tested my faith but after a wash and dry brushing my patience has been rewarded
Now to do metallic bits and the cockpit glass and shes ready
Every cyberpunk game needs cyber-ninjas.
infinity?
Yeah
Anyone know a good medium-paint-water ratio for replicating stuff like GW shades?
...or should I just got for flow improver
So water can work, but will end up with a less even finish, because the pigment will be somewhat disrupted. Using a paint medium can help keep things more even. A little bit of both might help approximate a shade. Otherwise, it's really more of a matter of eyeballing things.
I usually do like 1:1:1 as a base and then increase medium and water as desired but I haven't gone past 2:1:2 yet

Thanks for the advice!
Looks GREAT! Did you just use the TTC paints?
A good chunk of it yeah, with some odd Vallejo and AP paints I'm trying to finish off
That's enough work for today, tomorrow is washes and hopefully some details!
(I'm pretty sure the head sculpt also got messed up)
(but it looks fine)
At this rate I am going to finish an entire board build before my miniatures arrive to play on it.
Trying AP's brush on primer for the first time, this could be a gamechanger. Maybe too slow for Warhammer but it might be my go-to for Battletech.
Tourney on the 20th. Battle ready to-do:
- Getting 2nd half of the monolith
- 6 canoptek wraiths
- 5 immortals
- 5 lychguard
- 20 warriors
Here we go lmao
Happy birthday to me!
Two of these done. At last, I am free.
I suddenly realized I'm somehow missing the dark green... unless it rolled off without me noticing the cashier must have forgotten it. They didn't have black or mid flesh tone in stock (which makes sense) but I'll just pick them up later. Guess I might have to grab that green too.
No biggie, I actually got a serious discount for buying in bulk, the folks at my LGS are pretty cool.
What brand of paint is that?
looks like duncan rhodes two thin coats
It is
ahh
VERY pleased with it thus far.
Especially the silver, went on like a dream. I'm feeling jazzed to paint anything rn
love a good metallic
I backed the wave 3 kickstarter and I'm dying for it to get here to try out
gonna have to pick up other stuff to fill gaps in just that range but I'm excited about it
very eldar-friendly range tbh
I'm definitely gonna jump on Wave 2, especially for the greens and the skin tones
wow
ooh, I kinda like it tbh
yeah idk where I'd use it yet but I love that they exist
make for some good highlights for glowy bits or for high contrast
paint some good 80s ultramarines with that blue and yellow
True Ultramarines haha
paint my striking scorpions up with that green and the acid green in wave 3
That orange is searing
With a platform for the crane and a few things painted, my BMG board should be finished.
Slowly but surely the horde is painted
niiice
Still need touching up in some spots but I think they're as done as they're gonna be until after I take care of the bases.
should I keep the light gold?
Turned a dollar store toy crane into a platform to put minis on. This'll add some fun depth to my table.
That is awesome you should paint it too though
I have just primed it.
Wanted to finish the platform before I primed the whole shebang in one go.
It also took some surgery to get the wire out of the original.
So yeah, painting's on after lunch.
@frozen salmon is this turning out better?
you might have the wrong person ā-_-
Darn. Apologies.
I'd love to know where people get these cheap toy cranes cuz I can never find them.
they've mentioned it's for batman miniatures game, I believe!
https://www.amazon.com/iPlay-iLearn-Construction-Engineering-Steamroller/dp/B06XBT37C9/ Although hey I did find the above crane, with vehicles.
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Reasonable amount of terrain for a construction yard!
Yes, it is!
There's little references to Batman all throughout the table.
Neat, what team do you play?
Iāve seen those at my lgs but they seem quite pricy and Iām not a huge dc guy
It's... complicated.
I just got my load of models in, and I sort of managed to make two crews out of them, Joker and Penguin.
My collection exists of most of Batman's rogue's gallery, some of the big guys from Arkham Asylum, and some Joker bikers.
This, and a Mad Hatter that I ordered years ago. The game's fun, pretty unique with the night mechanic and the way you score, and the models look amazing, but Knight Models has a horrible rep for their customer service and quality control. Several of my models had miscasts or even visible print lines from the 3D printed master that they then used for the siocast moulds.
āFDM layer lines transferred into Siocastā worst of both worlds, got damn
Whatās siocast?
Itās a thermoplastic, real hot in the toy soldiers business right now
The overheads are relatively low so itās being pitched as a replacement for white metal for pretty much everybody except garage casters
But folks are still working out the kinks, to say the least
Itās essentially a more accessibly priced version of injection molding (how most plastic miniatures are made).
Injection molding normally comes with the cost of machining the metal molds. Siocast uses a different system that works with silicone, a much cheaper material.
So you send Siocast 3D printed masters and they create silicone molds and keep them on deck for you.
They have their own resin I believe you have to print in too for the masters.
Iāve tried some of CBās new siocast stuff for Infinity, and Iāll say that when it works itās pretty good.
Sharp detail, nice surface, neither too flexible nor too brittle (like nice 3d printed resin imho)
But the material itself is a little tricky; canāt scrape it, canāt sand it except with super fine grit
Gotta cut flash away clean with a blade
It is, yes, though iirc it's also oddly reusable in the same way pewter is--that is to say you can throw it back in the pot to melt.
Neat
And Iāve seen pictures of some hideous mold misalignment issues that would be hard to fix in a more forgiving medium
Theyāll figure it out eventually
Growing pains like any new system
Siocast is closer to how Reaper does their Bones models I think, though Bones is more a PVC blend.
Iām just a salty old grognard who really really likes white metal
I also like white metal but not for rank and file troops, and that's where stuff like this and plastic shines.
Also, having assembled and painted a lot of large pewter models I'm...pretty okay with all of those being transferred to literally anything else
Same lol. I appreciate as a miniature sculptor the competition and variety of options though! Not everything works well as a metal model.
I score and pin every contact surface by force of habit; what I miss about this stuff is that fuckin Heft that a big model should have imho
I pin them too, and I've become something of an expert in it, but uuuuuuuuugh
It's such a pain in the ass
Insanely subjective and very much just āthis is How It Was when I was a dumbass teenage nerd so I get maximum dopamine from itā but
The heart wants what it wants
Dude lmao⦠I got this drew day Williams dread⦠I just glued it together and I think I NEED to take it apart and pin it
This thing is massive
Fuck Yes
Like my platonic ideal toy soldier is the 1:87 scale Heavy Gear stuff by RAFM
Fuckin love those; huge, heavy, high lead content
Iām thinking about just drilling through the leg into the body so it lines up, Iāll need a fucking metal bit tho LOL
Shoot it straight in and then greenstuff over the hole, totally valid
Any normal set of bits for your pin vise can handle white metal no problem
Good to know!
Thatās what Iām thinking, itās just so massive and the mold wasnāt the best so itās hard to line things up
Listen to how heavy he is
CLOMP CLOMP CLOMP
Ol boy got those disco platforms
Yup, silicon oxide is what the SiO in SiOCast stands for, if I'm not mistaken. They use vulcanised rubber moulds. The resin's probably heat resistant, that would make sense for the vulcanisation process.
It is. A nylon based plastic that can be reused entirely.
Some of my stuff has... a few issues.
that's pretty bad, especially given how expensive those minis are
Yeah. Had to drill out plenty of flash and stuff too, but that wasn't too bad.
But yeah, you can see the support marks on the underside of the base toppers, and the top has very visible layer lines.
Oh gross, support nubs on the base too
They didnāt even bother to sand those off of the master?
It appears they did not.
Hell yeah
CoS is visually great but I do miss the frills of empire greatswords.
Peak performance
Old picture but this is my army scheme
I may change it to not look so America
Any suggestions
maybe quartering the fabric? ie one red sleeve n blue coat half
idk if it would help much but feels medievaly
How is it atm? Still medieval?
Oh for sure!
I just donāt want it to be seen as American flag vibes
Trying to decide how to paint up my Battletech mechs. I was thinking Eridani Light Horse but then it feels difficult to justify my crippling Elemental addiction.
Itās why I added the bronze
That's more like Luxemborg, or France, or the Netherlands. The colours are rather bright and primary.
The USA's livery in Buhurt is quite dark, too.
There aren't really any other teams from what I remember that use similar colours on their liveries. France is blue and yellow, with fleures de lis, Russia is white with yellow... there's a lot, but nothing that really matches your scheme. Seems unique enough.
henlo. I have some wips I would like feedback on
first up some stormcast test schemes
it's for living city stormast (even if gw hates me now) so technically ghyran guard but their official scheme sucks lol
inspired by the description of the living city being built from bedrock and ironoak
so a kinda stone and wood theme
I think the darker stone scheme might work really well for the ruination chamber dudes
the full scheme guy is just a simple drybrush which was really quick even though I also like it a lot, but I also like the smooth stone of the lady
the other thing
these van saar I've been struggling through for a while
the grav cutters most recent
I think the problem I'm having with the arachni-rig is too little black/gunmetal to break it up
Agreed, darker stone makes the green and gold contrast more.
but I also think I'm feeling better abt them as my mental health is improving lol
I wanna try out a darker wood for the dark stone
as well
like. old wood
As for the Van Saar, I think a secondary color would do a lot to break up the white. Maybe orange on panels.
technically I do want to add markings to them
like on the barricade
so maybe i just need to try that even though it's scary haha
with a red team and blue team. orange might be fun though!
thanks for the feedback <3
I got a new detail brush and it is sooooooooo good
Like I feel like I can paint freckles on an ant
And I can even do small surfaces like I'm a dentist painting on fluoride
In this video I will test all 18 of The Army Painter Fanatic Effects paints from the Complete Set, and se how they perform
The Army Painter Fanatic Effects Paints
https://thearmypainter.com/collections/warpaints-fanatic?filter.p.m.custom.product_subtype=Effects
The Army Painter Fanatic Effects Paints - Presentation
https://www.youtube.com/watc...
That man needs some coconuts
Testing a paint scheme and trying the triad system for the first time, not bad but I might try dry brushing instead
Updated
Arkham Asylum villains for the Batman Miniature Game. These are fun, but had me kind of terrified to paint.
Iād darken that blue so it fits with the red more
Hm, mind elaborating?
I'm going to be using multiple reserve units so they won't all have the same markings
The blue is almost a primary blue, which contrasts pretty starkly the dark, not so vibrant reddish brown. Darkening it down will make them feel like they belong together more.
Getting the base layers on this space marine bike
Normal
Cross posting from CCC but we just (almost) finished our first mini!
...which looks much better from afar, which is what matters to us!
Don't worry, that's the case with any miniature. Besides, they're meant to be viewed from tabletop distance, so that's a solid start.
Your brush control looks pretty good for a first time, your purple's nice and smooth, so I reckon you've thinned it well, and white and grey are tricky colours. I still can't seem to get my white smooth after a few years. Chalk as pigment isn't helpful for that. All in all, well done! I hope you enjoy the hobby. Infinity's a fun game to play, too.
My white and one my my greys were all dried up when I went to use them, so I definitely had a bit of a hard time thinning it :/
I'm not letting myself play the game again till I get all my minis painted though so hopefully that'll mean I improve quickly.
...gotta get away from such thick edge highlights
Careful not to burn yourself out or start rushing to get things done e which is a problem I have

Whatās a field medic
Field butcher
No no thatās a frontline surgical unit
Connected question: I stumbled into the idea that maybe squads that are seconded to another company might use that company's colors on the left pauldron trim, so since this one is backing up a cohort of veterans, he'd have white on the one I haven't attached rn. Does that sound cool or would it risk jumbling things by adding another prominent detail color not incorporated elsewhere?
I think it would be neat, although I know some space marines use the aquilla to denote company
That could work. Both pauldrons would pull attention to the face, I reckon. Which is a natural focal point.
Yesss kinda jealous, they look fun to paint
Just one mini for today
What a fella
Came up with a camo pattern I liked. Next two questions:
- Is there enough highlighting/shading from the grisaille undercoat, or should I throw some black ink and highlights on there?
- Do I paint the guns red, which messes up the camo somewhat but would be a nice homage to my favorite dysfunctional mercenary group?
Oh, those are nice.
I dont think an ink would hurt. Highlights would be at the least, a challenge.
A friend pointed out that I could put some edge wearing on them, I think I'll do that instead of highlights, and throw a super dilute black ink on them with the airbrush.
Now I just gotta decide on the red guns.
I am pro red guns on the grounds that a strong color note would offset āall over camouflageā nicely
They're clan mechs, you can totally bullshit an honor reason for why the mechs are camo and the guns are red.
BT minis are pretty different to paint from most other minis, but in a way very cathartic. The panels give me a sort of 'painting by number' kind of feel, but there's so many options with them. Patterns, fading effects, colour combinations, wear and tear... you can take it to any level you want.
Sadly most videos of people painting Battletech seems to be "So I took three steps back and tossed a pot of contrast paint at it."
I can attest that it's very fun
BT minis also take very well to drybrushing in my experience.
Helps make fun gradients or highlights easy to do.
Some examples from a pic I have on hand.
Hell yeah, my AGOAC crew got the same treatment.
I figured, lots of hard edges.
Haven't even gotten to painting most of em, but they're slowly getting some colour. I got distracted by some old Harlequins and my Batman minis that got delivered.
I got a clan color scheme picked, maroon with grey accents and green glass, but I need an IS one.
That sounds like a fun scheme.
This is the IS scheme I settled on. You probably saw it in the BT channel, or the Infinity server, heh. Went with the FWL purple as a guideline, threw in some Destiny 2 inspiration, and then tweaked it to my liking.
Though once I build up another company, it might turn into something else entirely. I like skirmish games because every model is unique, so I've never been one for painting armies in a single scheme.
What paints do you use btw?
It's a mixed bag. Mostly Vallejo and Citadel. This is Citadel's Stegadon Scale Green, then Xereus Purple. I'm slowly converting to more and more Vallejo, I like their paints quite a bit, and finally found a local store that sells them.
wip
Making some good progress. Also I love the Elementals.
Niiice, glad even the Clans respect the power of an Awesome
This new printer is great, but now I'm scared to paint this.
Gold capstones too strong on this? Lil crystals will match the big interior ones when Iām done.
I think the gold is a good idea but they look a little flat compared to the rest, could use some highlights/shadows before it's done
i continue to cook
lighting of this photo blends together the leadbelcher and black templar for some reason, oh well
about how long does everyone else typically spend on a single model of this kind of scale?
Depends on if I'm doing a single model at a time or batch painting but I'd say on average 30-45 min on an infantry model and anywhere from 1-5 hours if it's a hero/character mini
The arcanite took maybe 45 min and the curseling took about 2 hours for example
Or for a more recent example each of these took about 30min while Gunnar was more like 1 hour because of the axes
I get a bit carried away at times, so usually it'll take a couple of hours in total.
That's why I do skirmish games. Allows me to go nuts on detail and personality, and not have to worry about the rest of the army.
Way too long, and over way to spread out of time. Iāve got some modern military minis Iāve spent probably an hour or two on each and I still am not done, though also thatās because I paint slow
Not quite done, but I tried a new thing for the cockpit glass and I really like how it turned out.
Oh hell yeah.
:O
Teleports behind you
i want some advice from my elders
the way that I'm painting up the black on this hierotek circle is putting black templar directly onto the leadbelcher primer, but then i dont have any highlight colours for that i'm happy wit
leadbelcher or necron compound on top of that comes off as too bright and contrasting, more like weathering than highlight
I don't have a very wide selection of paints to work with, either
in my next session I might try putting the necron compound below the contrast paint and see how that shakes out, but failing that, does anyone have any advice for how I could apply highlights on top?
maybe with some very watered down white? I'm at a bit of a loss tbh
Youāre just trying to highlight black?
Iād pick up the more standard paints for that, lemme dig around and see if I have progress pics for it
Iād do two stage, get a dark dark grey like Eshin and then a light one like Celestra
Then if you need to tint it, you wash the hell out of it in whatever tone you want to tint and then a black wash or black templar over that
All of this is on the above method, tyranids being greyscale that I then washed with purple and then 50/50 purple + black wash, the monolith bein greyscale with then the coelia blue-green-ish wash and then 50/50 coelia green/black wash
You can go back and edge highlight with the greys after to get it a lil crisper
Baby's first oil-based pin wash
Not too bad but I don't think I'm gonna use this method much outside of panel lining
okay, i see, i see, this could work
i just have this dubiously justified idea in my head that metallic paints belong in their own dimension in terms of how their shades and highlights are constructed
Yeah you can dry brush or edge highlight with non-metallic paints, you just lose a bit of shine right at the highlights
I use oil washes a fair bit and it's really good for a number of things, but not all the things if that makes sense.
Great for getting a grimy grimdark look, or using it as a color filter to shift the base color a couple notches. Especially good for doing dirt/oil/rust streaks.
suppose that a piece of a miniature is hanging by a thread because right now you're storing them all loose in a plastic bag
what would be the best way to remedy this? I was thinking that a dap of super glue on the side might leave too much visible glue crust on this already painted model, so perhaps I could instead snap it off entirely and reattach it with plastic cement
If you can snap it off safely, probably the best way to do it.
Maybe some white glue, then like sand it down and paint over it once dry
More battlemechs, this time including friend-shaped Zaku and Bitey, Destroyer of Kneecaps
A very fun star.
Darkoath Cav are finally done
I like the blue effect on the shields, is that a wash with some very bright blue?
My attempt at freehanding an emblem for my mercs.
I watered down a Verdigris blue to well... Do Verdigris on my bronze
Looks great!
Good enough well except the front bits
Always funky that the little guyā¢ļø star is the spookiest one they sell
The Vixen/Incubus is a popular 'mech, I'm a big fan of the Wolverine IIC Conjurer personally, for the same reasons as why I love the Wolverine, and the Vapor Eagle/Goshawk is just... damn.
And yeah, the Perigrine/Horned Owl is so cute. Fuck the Piranha though. Chihuahua in 'mech form. Barking and growling and running up to some bigger 'mech only to get crit in an ammo bin and turn into a cloud.
I'm finishing up my own version of the star right now. Its a fun box to paint - though a lot of small details.
What's that top 'mech? It looks like some kind of Thug IIC.
That's a kingfisher. Standard engine-d omnimech. Rather undergunned for a clan assault but cheaper for it and very durable.
Especially because many of its variants have a LPL or ERPPC in the CT, so it'll dish out the pain until its cored out.
Ahh, from the box with the Turkina.
https://www.amazon.com/Organizer-Diamond-Polished-Space-Saving-Must-Have-Organizer/dp/B08WKQML52/ref=sr_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.NH3baMDkS2nO4VEy9izrtwiTMFPfpjZgboo5HUAOlbzBezYBo8LYwzpOf6vEbIubg3LUNI9QMmAMAPCQRpcLVN0R9VLpxTRRgnWEHqFIA1aHxB69e0VerQL2CtnSA_n9bwcGfOPktTXUa5YkHAm-zils4J_VsD4LXGB_A1m_lboX3QapEi-o0jINOAGMSioVmkF_4Vq6slE3jRx9fFOfqcXH8S8DWsr9ILkGwvqsF9w-0tl5Tzy28qGLcXV8IwVYI8y30Wtg5lAztFpMcLZnZcyBBCQ4vFF7tQ8XQJk8Qos.c9gGpnniDohszQawgLyfnMtxOMMG_7hcCxPq5ca1y0Q So this may be a silly question but, I recently got this organizer and quite like it, but I may need to expand my paint storage soon and I'm looking for something that matches this but doesn't cost as much. If I could buy another without the bonus brush holder I definitely would.
https://www.amazon.com/Yieach-Organizers-Organizer-Essential-Sunglasses/dp/B0BHV9MLLS/ I have two of these, they work great.
Oh sweet, thanks!
Damn that nmm looks good as hell
https://vxtwitter.com/geekayles/status/1823771249224384637 https://vxtwitter.com/neilhelks/status/1823774718970765684
...
Yeah.
Well I'm glad to have learned this now lol
I should get some of that
Tamiya thin glue is great stuff but pro tip: their airbrush thinner is the exact same stuff and comes in a big ol' bottle so when your little jar empties, just get the big thing and refill it.
The chemist-minded should also note: said glue is a 50/50 mix of acetone and butyl acetate (well 49/51 but who's counting).
I really need to get a better picture setup but here's my re-posed "oops I accidentally made a farsight proxy" commander lol
There's some simple stuff you can do to make your photos better, and almost 85% of that is "put the light at a 45-degree angle above the model."
I forget where I got these but I've had them saved as a perfect example of good lighting. It can really be that simple.
I'd need a light that isn't "find the sunniest room in the house and sit by the window" first lol
Yeah, hah
https://www.amazon.com/Vansuny-Eye-Caring-Brightness-Flexible-Gooseneck/dp/B097JK91V9/ ones like these are pretty affordable.
whaaaat
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKm9rwHFwLs It's true.
Very different video from what I usually make, but who doesn't like saving some money?
LINK TO THE FULL SECURITY DATA SHEETS:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1z1HxqgobeF2K1qPG3nb_-pQCUpqX-oc2?usp=sharing
Let's get cracking!
Check out my Jewellery shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/juanhidalgo
Jewellery Facebook Page: https://www.facebook....
Though I said thinner when it's cleaner, so a bit of a mistake on my part.
Still, you can get a big ol' bottle of this for at most twice the price of the smaller bottle at like...what, 10x the content? And if you can somehow source acetone and butyl acetate for cheap you can just make like, a liter of the stuff.
I like the little brush tho
Oh the little brush is nice, but this lets you refill it for way cheaper in the long run.
Angron is finished!
gayat dayum
Is that like a loyalist Angron or just Gods angriest boy participating in some team scrimmage
agitator balls have changed my life
this is kickass, great to see it finished!!!
I read that as 'aligator balls' and my eyebrows immediately went north trying to picture how they would influence miniature painting.
I can't imagine going through so much of this stuff that buying it in bulk is at all a concern
like yeah buy the airbrush thinner if your brush is still in good condition after building $50k worth of minis with it but making it yourself is wild
oh my gosh
I'm so happy with this face
eyes took two tries but came out perfect
also really vibing with the hair
(open in browser for best quality)
In Juan's case he's a pro painter and this is kind of his job, so in this instance it makes sense.
As would probably any painter on youtube that puts out vids on a regular basis, I'd think.
(but also having that much plastic glue would be really handy for plastic terrain)
Hey! Gonna be painting up some minis for LUNAR at some point, and would like to do the Soviet ones in this interesting color scheme some of their space suits had. Any ideas for how to archive it?
Also, hot damn does he have a great set of muttonchops
honestly prime white, do the orange details, hit the whole thing with your warm brown wash of choice, go back over the bits you want to be white again
Bone-color paint with a warm off-white, then a brown oil wash would filter the color to about the right shade.
if you want to include the blue too, also do that pre-wash
So, probably the GW Wraithbone rattle can would be a good primer?
Explain further
Right, I guess Iāve not super noticed when I used Wraithbone that it was very shiny
Though, maybe they changed the formula since I bought my can years ago
but yeah it's like that to be a better surface for constrast
slightly lowers surface tension
cause that's what it was developed for
but yeah I think is a pretty good colour match
and might take some nice weathering from washes really well
Thatās what I was thinking
Now that you bring that up, how much does a varnish help keep a finished paint job on metal models? Or models generally?
Like, whatās the pros and cons
don't have a lot of experience with that unfortunately
Thatās okay
but theoretically it should help with paint rubbing off metal yeah
Also, any ideas for what would be a good color for the orange in that picture?
uh citadel Wild Rider Red looks close to me
despite the name it's very much an orange haha
Gryph hound orange is pretty close for a contrast
loyalist angron from an alt heresy
Vallejo's Parasite Brown is lovely for that.
I use it for my orange, highlighted with Citadel's Fire Dragon Bright.
Painting battlemechs is fun.
That super high contrast cockpit glazing looks sick as hell
It is! You're making me want to pick up the Clan Invasion starter some time, they look sweet this way.
My company of Gouderak Guardians just needs a bit of powder and a front indicator on the base, then they're finished too.
Those are all clean as hell lads
I finished 1 (one) mini today but I'm very proud of him
Geez, I really like that red. Mind sharing how you did it?
Lemme check when I go home but the gist is a really bright orange contrast (i wanna say vallejo nuclear sunrise) over grey and white drybrush on matt primer. Then a quick highlight pass on the highest edges with another very bright orange acrylic.
It came out a little dark on large panels like the legs but you could probably improve that via either priming grey and drybrushing beige and white over that or otherwise making sure the areas with only black primer on them are the deep shadows.
I've only been painting minis for, like, six months. How'm I doin'?don't?
(This is a WIP)
Colors are good, definitely some spots to fix paint chips and edges. All tau models greatly benefit from a pin wash/panel liner
Brush control seems good, that's a pretty solid basecoat indeed, but there's a bunch of steps you can take to really bring it to life. Pin washing is indeed a great idea, loading your brush with a wash or heavily thinned paint and touching it into the lines between panels. This will give them separation and a little depth. A general black wash on the silver and sepia on the gold would work wonders, too.
Then, if you want to take it another level further, you can try edge highlighting. Taking a lighter shade of your basecoats, and using the side of your brush along the edges of the miniature to give them a little pop.
This comic book style is a little exagerated, but it shows the depth that shading and highlighting create. This was built up in multiple layers, and the lining is a little extrame for more conventional styles, but you can start simple.
I see an Army Painter "Nuclear Sunrise", is that what you meant, or was it a similar color by Vallejo?
Oh yeah it was army painter
I'm terrible at paint organization
Nice, thanks for the clarification.
Also, ran into some creative block with my battlemechs so I threw this together as a palette cleanser. Hope all the Scion faction models from Warcrow look this good with just grisaille, washes, and dry brushing.
I'm eager to get mine but the shipping has been delayed
I SPILLED MY TESSERACT GLOW
ALL MY GREEN, GONE
i dunno if the little dribble at the bottom of the pot will be enough to finish my hierotek circle

It is a sad but eternal fact of war painting to lose soldiers spill paint
there's still a purple stain on my carpet where I spilled a pot š«”
I lost half a pot of Agrax Earthsgade this way. š«”
Had like a third of my plastic glue spill onto my desk yesterday.
That was. fun.
Especially when practically invisible cuts in the surface of the desk started bubbling up.
Kind of on the fence about this camo scheme. It's fun to paint but I'm not quite sure it clicks.
I mean, it looks cool as hell to me
Its a challenge, but try adding laser lens and a jeweled cockpit. Those have really made my mechs pop.
Oh yeah those will go on for sure, I just wanted to get the overall scheme set before I went back in for details. Love doing the glowy parts.
Vapor eagles give me fucking nightmares lol
Those are really good effects
Here's a shot from the WIP desk. Some some reason, I'm having trouble getting that commander's panels clean.
Not a mini, but I just reorganized the painting desk with some new paint racks and a custom shelf
I forgot how key a gloss varnish is to making jeweled cockpits look good.
Gets that black nice and crisp, mmm mmm
Do you varnish the whole model as well (probably with matte), or just the glass for the effect?
For a second I got confused as to how that 'Wolverine' had its vfin intact in your mini, mine didn't come with it. Then I realised it's a Conjurer.
Just the glass. Should start matte varnishing stuff too but i never get around to it
Victor needed more camo.
Oh yeah that looks good
Also this weird dog followed me home...
High Quality Speed Painting⢠NMM that when approached with the right ideas and tricks it's really not that complicated! Support my work with PATREON https://www.patreon.com/notjustmecha & FOLLOW me on TWITCH⺠https://www.twitch.tv/marcofrisoninjm
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Cara āŗ ...
kingdom death?
All looking great!
Are you putting all these in the same army?
nah, just bouncing between projects to fight burnout
Bloodborne
oh, from the board game?
Yeah, the Chalice Dungeon expansion
Heās just a funny lil guy
Here's the guide model for the current Breacher squad I'm working on
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/162709648313417729/1277105270060880025/IMG_20240824_231937282.jpg?ex=66cbf477&is=66caa2f7&hm=8bcba29059e553828577bd3f9d2874279b35c5d3d3e9b6b005a203f17599cb00& Painting an Apothecary, despite the abundant warnings I was a little unprepared for how chunky the white paint could be, but I'm liking where it's at now
Hey I may be late to this but after spilling my own full bottle of tesseract glow on carpet I was struggling to get it out till I tried this stuff
Even after itād set in for weeks it was like. 5 minutes with a rag I rubbed into the canister and good as new
hold the trigger down the dark gods will know their own
The camera is doing it a lot of favors, but this tank is coming out way more shiny than I had expected it to
It's like "We have NMM at home"
Please come within 3 hexes, we promise we do not have 3 UAC/20s.
Aaaand done
Fire prism my beloved
"4 mechs and only only one can go above 6/4?"
"Well uh -
"The economy is in shambles"
Slow and steady wins the race.
But PPCs win that battle.
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/162709648313417729/1279635188065898528/IMG_20240831_225224722_HDR.jpg?ex=66d528a3&is=66d3d723&hm=4a7e5ebd8d8abca2c6e297df21f13fcc79aefb87161486821f23e2f45f2cdf16& Done for now! Will likely touch it up a little when I do the base but that's on the backburner now.
Black with a way to paint black and in between real life black and cartoon miniature black. Plus a little bonus material.
Miniature by Reaper Miniatures
Support my channel on Patreon:
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Not so mini painting project
So, looking at all these Sybalites I may be talking myself into painting... any pointers on how to do skin tones that aren't "roughly caucasian"?
Slaanesh's servants hail from across the Mortal Realms and have all manner of skin tones. Learn how to paint a few with this handy guide.
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Working on my Iron Talons Brutalis
(Custom Chapter)
I will make the stripe look better once its properly painted
With just some highlights and basing, these three members of my flying circus style mercenary company will be done.
It took a while to decide on colour schemes, but the extra content from Mechwarrior 5 and the Battletech game provided some nice inspiration.
GJ on the Battlemaster cockpit. I still have trouble with cockpits where the light wouldn't conveniently hit a corner.
Cheers. The BM has the advantage of being a huge surface compared to most cockpits, so there's a lot you can get away with.
Attempting a more traditional camo pattern using the same colors as the last batch. I maybe would have liked a bit more blue but I'm not going to go back and ruin it by fiddling with it to death.
Work on Sailor Moon Pathfinders has begun
Man I have been out of 40k for a while, what's the deal with the Tau, his Cyclops cosplay, and his tacticool, "use every inch of Picatinny" pulse carbine?
Pathfinder kill team stuff
Not familiar with specifics but pathfinders got an upgrade sprue basically
He looks like he is seeing some shit through that visor.
Yeah. That's from the Kill Team sprue. It's evidentally a bunch of communications jammer stuff, because it was Marked as a comms jammer carbine for the comms jammer operative.
I would not have used it if it wasn't so marked.
The reason she is wearing the visor is because it covers up the nasal vent and I couldn't, in good faith, use an obviously-male or helemeted operative with the Sailor Moon theme
Sorry "Transpecteal Interference Pathfinder" not "Comms Jammer" that would be too straightforward.
its okay he just wandered in from the Saint Seiya pathfinders a block over
i should rewatch a bit of Seiya, the opening whipped ass
quality early shonen opening
I like the purple, it fits the urban camo and is rare to see
is discord eating your images?
They got so thin they disappeared!
Sorry I forgor to upload imag
haha no worries
it's hard to tell due to the focus, but it looks pretty smooth to me! especially the blue
actually on the front leg I think I can see some brushmarks, so I think if that was one coat another coat that thin should do great
The gold looks a little chunky but metallics are a motherfucker to thin, I wouldn't be too hard on yourself on that front
It's all quite good
Are you using a wet pallet? They can be really easy to put together, or you can buy them pre-built
metallics usually look a lot better over a darker base coat, going over with like a dark brown or black first can do a lot for you
that blue really pops tho
I can attest
Hey chat is there any way I could covert standard acrylics to airbrush?
Like craft paint acrylics or miniature paint ones? Because the latter just needs some airbrush thinner and maybe a drop of flow aid.
The former on the other hand...
yeah they just need to be thinned, very common to use tbh
yeah with miniature paints you can just thin them with water or airbrush medium, they're super densely pigmented compared to a lot of other paints so they typically hold up well to it
Neato
It's finally done
white glint
I think I will sadly have to stop this painting project since Iāve started to forget steps in the style
I like the colour scheme. Very different from the usual death guard green, but still with that pestilent feel.
Very nice and nurgly
ty! It's black primer, heavy drybrush of leadbelcher, and a nice thick coat of liquid talent I mean Agrax Earthshade
and a spattering of Typhus Corrosion all over
The board game club I go to apparently does a minatures night where they let you use thier paints! So I've finally painted one of my beginner box minis
hell yeah itās John Dougram
Looks good! Burnished
anyone have experience using iridescent mica powders on minis? either in a medium or applied dry
Do I need a painting grip?
I donāt really know what it provides tho
easier to hold the grip than a tiny base and adjust angles so you can reach things with your brush more easily
you can also just like, blutac the mini to a cork or something
You can paint just fine without one, but I've found that I very much appreciate the extra stability it gives. It allows you to brace your hands against one another and have much more control. In addition to that, holding minis by the base can sometimes lead to rubbing off paint from some areas that stick out a lot, like feet sticking just over the edge. That'll leave little primer spots showing.
Yeah, absolutely. Though you can also print something more ergonomic if you have access to a printer.
People even use paint pots. Anything that'll hold the mini steady and provide something solid for your hand to grip onto.
definitely use a paint handle, but you dont need to buy a fancy one
though I am genuinely a fan of the gw system
thoughts on ash waste base?
gonna try some other things but the pigment powder I wanted didn't arrive :(
The dynamic duo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vR-6fZLVyw The standout is the water toilet he shows off, which seems actually quite useful.
I bought three alleged "hobby" tools that were advertised to me CONSTANTLY so I could check them out - and tell you what I think.
You can find these three hobby tools (and more) here: https://www.amazon.com/shop/tabletopminions
Vince Venturella and I made another game! Check out Deth Wizards at http://www.dethwizardsgame.com
I'm now a partner...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CW65P1V2?th=1 10 bux isn't bad, really.
goin for a pat
Lookin good!
With these two, my skirmish list of Harlequins is finally finished.
After buying them not too long after I got into the hobby and completely neglecting them for years, I figured they deserved an actual attempt at painting.
That's a sick pattern
Cheers. I pushed the highlights on everything a few steps brighter than I'd normally dare, to create that almost dazzling effect of their holosuits and stuff.
Good call!
I'll have to try and get some pictures of them on the table tomorrow.
those look great
Sadly, the lighting wasn't great.
We played a four-man skirmish with Battle Sisters and Guards counting as one team by two players, trying to hold two fronts at once against Orks from one edge, and my clowns from the other.
In the end, the humans were unable to hold fast as their line got beat back by a green wave on one end, blowing their big pieces to bits, and the blur of blades on the other, dropping guards at an alarming rate.
By the time the Orks broke through on their side, only their leader remained and I ended up cleaning up easily with only a single model lost. A decisive victory.
Kitbashed chosen done for now
A current WIP for Wednesday
oooo!
Man Riptides look so damn cool, but iunno if I have the fortitude to paint a mini that huge
Take as much time as you need and break it up with small stuffāIāve been painting a monolith since March lol
ominous music plays as the camera slowly pans to a half-painted imperial knight
Experimentation time! One thing I haven't been able to get looking just right is semi-transparent dragon wings. Will it work this time using glazes???
Miniature is wyvern by Reaper Miniatures
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I haven't been doing triad layers for long so batch painting is a pretty slow process even when I'm not trying to get it perfect, but I like the results!
nice!!!
I'm just doing one coat despite it not being 100% even, I think it being just a little bit mottled fits the earthy vibe I want for the Solar Bears
yeah it can be very effective
been experimenting with that a lot for my stone-y stormcast
how worth it is lahmian medium (or analagous brands) for things beyond washes and contrasts?
Its very good for glass-glazing, like for mech canopies
Using water to thin down the paints for this sort of thing tends to make the paint have high surface tension
Whereas medium lets you more precisely place your paint in small places.
with what you have lying around already, or with newly-purchased stuff?
just as a mixture?
runefang steel is already pretty bright, but if you want a very pure, bright white beyond that, you could put over it some white contrast (like apothecary white or a similar analogue from another brand) watered down with contrast medium
try out some recipes on a primed bit of sprue or scrap plastic if you want to experiment
Finally got around to taking some proper pics of my harlequins. Haven't touched WH in years, but these were too cool not to give a better shot than my poor attempt when I just started out.
Oh those are very cool
Yeah, nice job!
I wish I had a space that I could close off from my cat to do painting
Like, I got a little done this summer but now thatās stalled
I'm afraid there's no holding back the cat. Mine also explored my desk and almost my palette on several occasions.
Cheers. The challenge of painting the checkers and giving them the proper contrast was too fun to turn down.
Especially the checkers on the inside of all the coats were fun to do. Not that anyone will see those from the tabletop, but oh well.
Eventually I will work through my backlog like I promised myself, I swear.
I love painting clones! Big ups for naming them too.
Oh yeah, most of them came organically while working on them, so I figured I might as well put 'em on.
For example, Score has five kill marks on his shoulder pad. Ace has an ace of diamonds. Sarge's markings follow those of an old clone officer, when colours denoted rank instead of unit.
In case any of yāall are feeling down about your models
https://x.com/jewelknightjess/status/1844804184333504942?s=46&t=oWW_NnXMz5xZU9SUUTq01g
Painting's the only way they're ever gonna get better. Besides, when I look in my display case, there's plenty of old paintjobs that hurt my eyes when I look at them, but then I see them next to a recent one and I can't help but smile about my improvement.
the worst paint job is better than unpainted, finished is beautiful
Exactly.
And if you ever need a reminder, find someone that doesn't paint minis, or even better, has never even heard of the hobby. They will usually happily remind you of just how impressive it is that you even had the courage to try and paint something so tiny, with such a tiny brush, no matter what the outcome.
The worst paint job is the one you never get around to doing.
Yeah
Yall please help
The paint for these guys looks like itās being applied super thickly despite thinning it down many times
Iām going nuts
How thick is your prime
Uhh unsure
Itās rustoleum white if that helps
It did apply a little thick to the finer detail bits like the aquillas
I had a very limited area to be able to prime (shoebox lid) and couldnāt do a back-and-forth as well as Iād like
I realized that now that I know I only want to change the armor color, pants, skin tone and metallics I might not have needed to prime at all