#Miniature painting 🎨
granite fox
obtuse maple
Looking sick as hell!
lunar axle
These ought to be the tiniest freehands I've ever done.
lunar axle
Despite the loss of half a bottle of sephia shade, the Jupiter is finally leaving the basecoating stage.
There's something surreal about painting a miniature that you designed yourself.
lime haven
I can imagine. Nice purple!
Done with this guy. I'm not particularly proud of him in any way except for this: i left him to rot months ago half-finished, and I was able to come back and finish the job.
lunar axle
Ohh, sweet Griffin. I do like the subtle pattern and shoulder pad.
lime haven
His starter pack foe, the vindicator, is the next to be washed, detailed, and edge highlighted.
Then a banshee, thunderbolt, and sagittaire and I'll be truly done with my first color scheme of mechs.
Then my black kuritans, then the lyran guards lance of all 100 tonners, and the fedrat desert raiders... oh god, I want off this wild ride of actually finishing my work
lunar axle
I know the feeling.
The first three times I finished a mini, I got a new lance or star. Thank fuck that trend didn't continue.
And every 'mech in my IS company is getting a different paint scheme.
lime haven
On the bright side, a lot of my paint schemes I need to finish are a lot faster since they don't involve aggressive edge highlights.
lunar axle
That does save some time. And pain.
Hopefully using my airbrush will speed up at least one of the colours significantly on the binary that I still have to prime.
compact pier
resin isn't any different really, just needs to be primed as usual
n then for size its partially a thing of accepting you won't necessarily get the same level of detail
make the model work for you, like catching edges by painting at a 45 degree angle to the edge
cunning crow
Yeah probably just going to air brush it with a green primer and paint on a secondary color detail
compact pier
if you want it to look like it's a miniaturised full size thing and not a 'toy' then the big thing is keeping any details you do in scale. which means if you do edge highlights you want them very thin, and any chips and such should be quite small etc
frosty moon
careful ink wash can give you shadows
cunning crow
Like an acrylic ink?
I also have a fluorescent dark green
I’m an amateur calligrapher
compact pier
arcylic ink should be fine yeah
austere swift
My brother has cursed me with the Chalice Dungeon expansion pack.
misty horizon
Oooh, neat
viral arch
Tackling some of my infinity backlog
lunar axle
manic raven
These are good but they go on pretty opaque. More like a pre thinned paint than the way inks are used for miniatures.
thorny maple
Halfway done with my first regiment of Riftforged Legionnaires
viral arch
The backlog continues to shrink, one kit at a time
viral arch
Thank you! I totally wasn't thinking of Eva unit 1 when I came up with it!
manic raven
infinity models look so good in the eva unit schemes
if i'd been thinking about it i'd have done each nomad sectorial as a different eva unit
its too late for it now, but i am going to do my corrigidor in unit02 colors, mostly just standard nomads but incorporating a lot more orange
fiery vale
Just started 3D sculpting and for my first project, I decided to adapt all Lancer Frames into fully posable, 3D printable kits! Starting out with the IPS-N Blackbeard 😌
Only got the test print to show so far (I know the arms and sword turned out too long, but this has been fixed since 😌).
Still have to fnish this beauty‘s base 🤗🔥
thorny crystal
👀
obtuse maple
That's sick as hell!
manic raven
thats incredible, great work
fiery vale
Should Tom allow me to publish it, your needs shall be met 🤗
lime haven
Why do mechs gotta have so many edges to highlight
lilac marsh
Finished a big batch of actually playable models
wide dawn
ooooo
fiery vale
Base finished 😌 Nothing special, just snow 🤗
thorny crystal
YES
misty horizon
Where’d you get that?
compact pier
Just started 3D sculpting and for my first project, I decided to adapt all Lance...
they made it!
ruby shuttle
I like the use of string for the exposed cables.
What did you use to stiffen and sculpt them?
lunar axle
Soaking them in some cyanoacrylate should do the trick, I reckon.
fiery vale
I like the use of string for the exposed cables.
What did you use to stiffen an...
I stripped a broken USB cable, there is a protective mesh inside, which I used. It’s not completely stiffened, just the parts that are attached to the ‘reinforcements’ with superglue! They hold their shape due to torsion, I just twisted the mesh before attaching the second end point 🤗
Otherwise it would break too easily, like this it’s flexible and not to fragile 🤗
viral arch
Did up the last of my scions, now my guard is fully painted until I get around to filling the last 500pts of the list
slender crest
I keep hearing good things about them, like really good things
it's getting close to restocking my extremely dry paint collection so I might give it a shot
love a dropper bottle
wide dawn
My LGS said they'd give me a 20% discount if I grabbed the first wave all in one go, so I'm definitely planning on doing that... once I have something to paint with them again. Also looking forward to the second wave's release, this one... less so, but that just means I'll probably grab a couple choice triads instead of the whole thing.
Idk why they did a Explicitly Sons of Horus Blue-Green when I thought the previous wave's jade triad already covered that
slender crest
every single person that does these physical swatches of paint lines is an actual saint
this one from https://taleofpainters.com/2022/11/review-all-60-two-thin-coats-paints-by-duncan-rhodes/
that demon red is so bright it makes me want to find a reason to use it
wide dawn
https://www.megahobby.com/products/200ml-bottle-grey-primer-vallejo-paint.html this this made for airbrushing?
lunar axle
Yep, it is. You can also brush it on, but in my experience, it's rather thin for that.
There we go, another squad down from my backlog.
wide dawn
Cool cool
gleaming shore
hello
i've recently been looking into getting into miniature painting, and i am shopping for paints
i'd like to hear recommendations for brands or sets that are
- decent
- not exorbitantly expensive
- not possessing exhorbitant shipping fees to the UK
this is the main set that's got my eye right now
it is indeed exhorbitantly expensive as a bulk purchase, but the economy of scale means that the price-per-bottle is actually very low
languid jay
While GSW makes good products, I cannot in good consciousness recommend buying from them directly as they're a rather scummy company.
gleaming shore
elaborate
languid jay
- Used to sell a roller that had the Black Sun (a nazi symbol) on it. They claimed not to know and just picked a symbol off google, and eventually they stopped selling it, but it was still months before they redid it.
- Allegedly cancelled orders by anyone with a chinese name, apparently out of concern that chinese recasters would copy their products.
- Sent a C&D to Vallejo over the use of the "color shift" name, claiming ownership of it. Which is funny because other companies used that name well before GSW did.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTEk9WO0srE Also sent C&D to someone selling brush rinse machines, which is also funny because chinese companies sell that shit all the time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcFf7dIAe8g Also stolen artwork.
gleaming shore
what would you recommend instead?
languid jay
Vallejo is something of the gold standard. They're consistent and good quality and can be found damn near anywhere, and even go as far as to do exact color copies of real-world military colors if that's your thing. They've got a huge range of paints and primers, and their latest Contrast equivalent Xpress is some of my favorite.
gleaming shore
intriguing, however: i'm not paying £70 for 16 dropper bottles
languid jay
I really like Reaper Miniatures lines of paints. They've got good coverage and a lot of colors, mostly bright ones. Their metallics are only so-so, but they're also equivalent in price to Vallejo so you're not paying more or anything.
(currently Reaper's site seems to be down, otherwise I'd link some of their paint sets)
Army Painter is another line that admittedly has some mixed impressions. Their basic line of paint is noted as having some real bad coverage with some of their paints; however, their washes are my favorite, and their Speed Paint line is a Contrast equivalent that has vastly improved with the 2.0 launch. They're also apparently redoing their paint formula so they're clearly looking to make improvements on their products.
Privateer Press's P3 paint line is quite solid and there's a lot of colors I like from there, but they don't use dropper bottles and instead use flip-tops which is...annoying. I put them in droppers myself but that's a bit of an ask for new painters to do. Their Arcane Blue is a favorite of mine, so it's worth picking up a color or two to try out down the line.
Pro Acryl is something of the "new hotness" right now--really, really good colors with good coverage, and in big ol' 22ml bottles. Thinned down enough to go straight into the airbrush, but still good for regular paintbrushing. A bit more expensive, however.
The Golden line of paints is really more an artist's paint line, traditional canvas stuff, but they do sell these big 1oz dropper bottles that go through an airbrush wonderfully. Their SoFlat line is a very matte paint that's got amazing coverage, but they're in jars so I'd only recommend it to more experienced painters.
As for paint sets themselves: I'm not sure how much cheaper you can find compared to the GSW line. It's a pretty damn good deal, admittedly. Army Painter comes close tho, at 50 bottles for $99 USD: https://gnomishbazaar.com/products/the-army-painter-warpaints-set-mega-paint-set-wp8021
You can probably find one being sold in the UK for around the same price.
If you are dead set on the GSW ones, try and find a 3rd party seller offering it--don't give them money directly, for the points I made earlier. Scummy company, good products, so find'em elsewhere if able.
gleaming shore
found a reseller for the army painter warpaints: https://www.goblingaming.co.uk/products/warpaints-mega-paint-set-iii-new
this seems promising
gleaming shore
what exactly is the army painter speedpaint line, and do you think it would be preferable for a beginner?
as i understand it, it's a faster-drying formula that also uses some kind of chemistry magic to automatically fill in shading and highlights
ruby shuttle
Speedpaints and similar products will handle getting the appearance of shadows and highlights through one coat of the paint.
then you can use normal acrylic paint for details and touching up areas.
I think normal paints will dry faster when thinned with the right amount of water.
If you're ok with mixing on a paint palette, you can probably start with only ~12 paint bottles.
White, Offwhite, Black, Brown, Khaki, Pink, and your choice of ROYGBV colors.
wide dawn
as i understand it, it's a faster-drying formula that also uses some kind of che...
The main thing about speedpaint and contrast paint is you usually want a white or off-white prime coat
obtuse maple
I looooove contrast paints/speed paints. But you do probably want some basic acrylics first
compact pier
contrast paints are highly pigmented washes basically
which are translucent
so with surface tension more paint is in the recessesses and less on raised sections, and that difference in pigment load gives a relatively high tonal variation in the dried result
gleaming shore
ah, i see, just being a very thick wash makes more sense
but i think i should get practice with simple acrylics first
obtuse maple
If you're ok with thinning your paints, just some basic acrylic paints from your local art supply store will do the trick as well
granite fox
dnd mini i painted
lime haven
Anyone have a reccomendation for a solid dark green to use as the first layer of laser lens? I have armypainter greenskin because I
Just
Cant
Find
Dark green at my local game stores
compact pier
I use gw/citadel's stegadon scale green
great deep green-blue
but valid if youre not into gw paints ofc
lime haven
I may need to bite the bullet tbh
compact pier
I've been really meaning to branch out of only using gw paints haha
but stegadon scale green is genuinely one of my favourite paints
slender crest
citadel paints are genuinely really great, I just hate their pots
they dry out like nothing else
lunar axle
Yeah. A bunch of the colours are great, but they're hard to enjoy as a solid block of acrylic.
manic raven
ProAcryl are my favorite high density general usage paints. Their jade is really good and would work for this purpose.
Out of what I have, for green lenses I'd probably grab boreal or black forest green from scale75 as the base layer, but I'd only recommend getting into that paint range if you really liked glazing or were trying to push to competition level. It's pretty finicky and has poor coverage, but thins down infinitely so it's great for glazing.
lime haven
Yeah I'm not glazing yet, just doing a little trick for laser lens - putting lighter colors in specific arcs of the circle
I'll send a pic when I get home from work of a finished(ish) example
idle girder
1. Used to sell a roller that had the Black Sun (a nazi symbol) on it. They clai...
Sorry this is necro as shit but GSW is the single most weirdly boomer minded company ive ever encountered
My brother in christ you sell ink and clay why the hell do you keep trying to swing dick around
tulip stump
languid jay
One pot incident got me to move all my GW paints to dropper bottles.
languid jay
A friend of mine has a 3D print of one of those anti-tipping doohikies you put GW pots in and that seems downright necessary.
languid jay
Oh that sounds handy.
slender crest
I still have a purple stain on my floor from a pot incident
compact pier
don't have enough room to have the palette out permanently atm but when I do I'll probably pick one up
I'm kinda thankful it fell on the floor tbh-rather than get it all over my brushes n stuff
compact pier
ooh
lilac marsh
My brute force solution for orange is cadmium orange paint from an art store
lime haven
Jeweling attempt #1.
lunar axle
Personally, I love to use Parasite Brown by Vallejo for orange.
It's somewhere between light brown and orange, and it works amazing as a base. Some bright orange like Fire Dragon Bright on top of it, and it works like a charm.
tulip stump
lilac marsh
Corsairs are deceptively detailed models wow
Took me like 2 hours to just block in 1 color for a squad
misty horizon
misty horizon
Took me like 2 hours to just block in 1 color for a squad
As a gsc player I know your pain
compact pier
thorny crystal
🤏
compact pier
they're actually pretty satisfying to look at in photos
didn't enjoy the painting that much
obtuse maple
I love these lil guys!
languid jay
Honestly at $40 this is a pretty dang good starter set. Paints, metallics, wash, primer, brush, and a model is as all-in-one as you can get for that price.
lime haven
why does jeweling have to take so much patience
Catapult was attempt one, victor 2.
Practice for this fella.
languid jay
lilac marsh
Tried stippling with some foam I had lying around. I think if it ake the highlights up a few shades and hit the panel lines with some shade I might be onto something
steady field
Anyone got good, beginner friendly resources for highlighting, weathering? Looking to add some depth to these stompers:
lunar axle
Camospecs has a bunch of tutorials for specifically Battletech techniques. Duncan Rhodes has also done some stuff.
As for highlighting, the trick is to use the side of your brush on raised edges whenever you can. Play around with paint thickness to see what you like. Too thin and it'll run, too thick and you'll end up with too much on your brush and 'highlight' half the panel. Other than that, it's mostly a matter of fuck around and find out. And don't be afraid to redo things if you're not happy with them. It's acrylic paint, you can layer it a whole lot.
White is tricky to highlight, considering you used pure white. The trick with white usually is not actually painting things pure white, and saving that for the final highlights.
Just kick back, enjoy the process (it's therapeutic in a way), and whatever you do, don't start counting the lines. There's a lot more than you'll realise.
obtuse maple
A few things! Weathering is like, my favorite part of model painting. First, a small sponge or bit of foam, with some metallic paints/paints that would be "under" the paint on the actual model, lightly touched along places where wear would happen, like legs/knees/sides adds a huge amount of depth.
If you want to add battle damage type of weathering, having a "story" in mind helps. Like, this catapult took a heavy salvo from the right side, so adding blast craters (using drill+hobby knife along the outside of the circle+light sponge of black to represent burn marks+maybe metallic bit in the center to represent the under structure)/laser burns (heating up a hobby knife and dragging it along can be fun) and whatnot along that side
Three recent projects with heavy weathering.
Whatever base you do, a light dry brushing of similar color along the legs helps ground the mech in the "reality" of the terrain as well
As for highlighting... I don't do highlighting so can't help there heh
steady field
Good stuff; thank you both!!
wide tartan
This is my first run priming things with a spray, it really is all just in doing quick passes
misty horizon
what are you painting?
wide tartan
This is infinity stuff, Steel Phalanx specifically
Gonna try that light undercoat technique (black where shadows would be, light grey where I want it to look shiny) for the first time on these guys
misty horizon
nice, I've personally considered getting into Marvel Crisis protocol, since there's local monthly games at a place near me
but I'm alos still not finished my GSC
wide tartan
nice, I've personally considered getting into Marvel Crisis protocol, since ther...
Local Weekly games (and a beginner league) are what got me into infinity. If you've got a community I say go for it!
misty horizon
MCP's a bit more akward to get into though since I'm interested in a bunch of characters and they're spread along a bunch of factions, I'd also love to pick up the Runaways if they ever show up
steady field
Rough, but for a first try ever I’m pretty happy. Gonna reinforce the white and orange details, then move onto weathering
granite fox
wip
languid jay
Bouillon cubes for terrain, a bold and tasty choice.
steady field
https://vxtwitter.com/PorbleG/status/1763917972668547167
Holy moly that must’ve taken a couple nights
languid jay
It's insane and fuckin' just, goals man
granite fox
Bouillon cubes for terrain, a bold and tasty choice.
its a diorama
wide dawn
Nothing worth sharing but we've finally got good priming weather so I got my Havocs all set to go... they'll wind up looking different from their brothers because the red primer I'd been using kept quitting on me, but I was looking to try different paints anyway
steady field
I really wanna prime more, but the weather here is...
I'm even considering painting in some of the tunnels in the uni building I work in...
unsure whether I want to risk the wrath of the janitor...
wide dawn
rip, it's a pretty narrow window where I am
especially since the seasons are getting all screwed up by climate change
I have an airbrush but not a compressor or dedicated workspace for it
lilac marsh
Wave serpent done (minus turret)
halcyon goblet
how did i not realise we had this thread
also boss ghosts
tulip stump
Valid
lilac marsh
the flame-y edges!
Sponging on highlights with a piece of foam is magic for large models
wide tartan
Finally done painting everyone with an even coat, I can actually start on the detailing soon
viral arch
40 cultists painted
thorny crystal
PURDY
languid jay
obtuse maple
those some good lookin' boys! fun camo scheme
lime haven
I was inspired by some of the minis on the goonhammer website, and I like playing the bad guys, so I went with a scheme for the nastiest folks in the Battletech setting.
lime haven
I'm used to doing pretty muted schemes - camo, flat panel colors, etc. This has been a really fun challenge learning how to do a variety of things
The grey was done via heavy dry brushing of grey and then white on black primer, washed down. Then, the metal parts are turqouise and silver mixed, which has been... a challenge to keep consistant. Spots are just matt black and then a smaller bit o' white. Proacryl's titanium white really is magic.
Finally, I intend to jewel them all in the same fashion of the puma. Dark red -> Bright red -> Orange -> Yellow -> Shiny gloss.
compact pier
xpost from pathfinder chat
Printed heroforge minis :) they were really fun
used a lot of washes
idle girder
BRUTUS-328
compact pier
this guy is awesome
obtuse maple
xpost from pathfinder chat
Dang, looking fantastic!
compact pier
thanks!
obtuse maple
I had heard of heroforge but hadn't actually seen any of their minis, looks like the print quality is quite good!
A good paint job does help cover up anything tho so who's to say ;P
compact pier
these are stls from them printed by me
obtuse maple
Ah, gotcha!
compact pier
I think they're great though!
lots of little details that come out with a wash n stuff
obtuse maple
I'll keep them in mind whenever I am able to host another in person ttrpg
compact pier
does anyone here use a like booth for airbrushing? or just have one they'd recommend?
lime haven
God washes are magic
frosty moon
terrible photo for my terrible painting
grinding through several hundred 15mm US infantry
shirts tonight, pants and boots tomorrow
I have another 200 germans to do also
doing a ~50/50 mix of khaki regular shirts and the drab winter jackets/shirts
ornate tendon
FoW?
frosty moon
FoW?
I'll probably use them for something else, but yeah
although these ones are plastic soldier company
ornate tendon
My first reaction was “individually based 15mm my beloved” but that’s clearly not what’s going on here
frosty moon
My first reaction was “individually based 15mm my beloved” but that’s clearly no...
I did consider it, but I'm gonna be teaching it to middle schoolers next year
so fuck am I doing individual bases
ornate tendon
What system, Flames?
I fuck w/ individual 15mm because of my passion for No End In Sight
frosty moon
Not sure yet, maybe flames cos it's easy.
No End in Sight fucks
Fistful of Tows but WW2 is an option
or something by TFL
ornate tendon
Hell yeah TFL
frosty moon
but yeah multibased because I have to move these around/set em up/put em away a lot
idle girder
Putting birb in here
wide tartan
Hmm
Anyone have any advice for making washes from acrylic (specifically Vallejo model colour) paints?
Everything online is... Somewhat inconsistent
idle girder
Hmm
Anyone have any advice for making washes from acrylic (specifically Vallejo ...
dillute paint with water or medium until you reach desired consistency
unless you need to make an amount to store long term witch is rather more invovled
wide tartan
unless you need to make an amount to store long term witch is rather more invovl...
Just temporary stuff on a pallet luckily, is there a good water-paint mixture you know?
I'm told 3 parts water and 1 part paint works well
idle girder
i should mention use distilled water if you can
idle girder
Just temporary stuff on a pallet luckily, is there a good water-paint mixture yo...
really depends on the application, experiment, find what works for what you need
wide tartan
Ah alright, I'll figure something out then
Probably will pick up an actual medium just to be safe
Thank you for the assistance!
idle girder
np best of luck
lime haven
As always, water down more when in doubt, you can put multiple layers of wash on too.
slender crest
choice between water and some kind of medium is more in how it pools than one being better than the other
lime haven
Also in my experience diluting with water will make your wash more "clingy" to recesses and corners and diluting with medium means your wash will apply more evenly over the base color.
I find it makes a really big deal when doing things like glazing or blending colors and less during basic washing though. However, im new to painting as shit so eh.
lunar axle
If you're feeling alchemical, you could always try to add the tiniest drop of dish soap into a diluted paint. That would change the way the wash behaves on surfaces. But definitely test that on something other than a mini first.
misty horizon
As always, water down more when in doubt, you can put multiple layers of wash on...
I often find myself watering it down too much and just clogs up the details and needs to be wiped off
thorny maple
Kings of War army for an escalation league. 800 points for Ambush in the first round.
frosty moon
Kings of War army for an escalation league. 800 points for Ambush in the first r...
love escalation leagues
thorny maple
Gutter Runner for a Blood Bowl team. Testing out a new scheme, kinda rough at the moment.
thorny maple
Blitzer progressing.
granite fox
obtuse maple
Dang, looking really good!
compact pier
dooooope
limpid root
aaa I still need so much practice but each one is definitely better than the last
tulip stump
looking good
granite fox
how do i use AK interactive Resin Water
or AK8044
i want to do a blood effect resin and a greenish rain water resin
so i need some advice
languid jay
Okay, so
This resin is a two-part kit and it's mostly for standing water--puddles, pools, etc.
Which is to say, for some effects like big splashes of water, waterfalls, etc. it won't be applicable.
For doing any sort of coloring, you'll want to use ink. A little goes a long way, so a drop or two will usually do the trick for smaller projects.
I've used some clear resin before, but it's always been two equal parts; as such, I'm not sure on how exactly to work the ratio for the AK one shown above.
According to the video it's 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener, so you're gonna want to measure them out exactly (10ml resin to 5ml hardener, as an off-the-cuff example). Mix them thoroughly in a disposable cup, add a drop or two of ink, and pour.
If you don't have ink you can use acrylic paint, just make sure it's thin or translucent. Washes can also work. Inks just have a more intense color which for something like blood is more desirable. I suggest doing a tiny test piece first on a spare base or something so you have an idea of how much or how little color you'll need.
I really, really recommend putting something like an old container over the piece after doing any resin work for two reasons: so you don't accidentally touch it, and so tiny hairs and particles don't settle into the resin (good luck getting cat hair out of resin).
limpid root
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEvzvNwRlQI
I've only ever used the one part still water effect which works pretty well for small puddles and such, though it has a habit of crawling up edges before it shrinks
languid jay
Yeah, had that happen before. I just kinda keep that in mind when using clear resin.
limpid root
still need to go back and finish this at some point but I need like an actual sculpting tool to do some ripples/splash around the foot with some of that water gel texture stuff
though I've also seen some fun stuff using pva glue and the fluff at the end of a q-tip to do that as well that I might try
languid jay
I haven't used any fancy sculpting tools for waves, I've just used either a brush or a toothpick.
The thicker water gel is fairly easy to manipulate and shape with just the most basic things hangin' around.
granite fox
I really, *really* recommend putting something like an old container over the pi...
thanks so much
languid jay
Hell yeah
For the red, don't be afraid to darken it afterwards if it doesn't look bloody enough for you.
Just y'know, be sure to let it cure first, hah
viral arch
I lost track of time but Joan is done!
tulip stump
fun colors hell yeah
ornate tendon
fuck yeah mobility joan
languid jay
https://twitter.com/KeshiCorner/status/1770099403161768269 For the 3D printing nerds out there.
Twitter
limpid root
messed up cutting a circle and didn't want to waste it so I made a base for fun 😄
languid jay
Hell yeah
obtuse maple
I have... Four people new to painting coming over to paint minis this Sunday :O
Should be fun. I thiiiink I have everything I need
obtuse maple
That's cute as fuck
tulip stump
ye
lunar axle
Got myself a new project. In a rather... unusual scale.
languid jay
Fair enough.
compact pier
simple but the dark bodies needed the contrast and it cleans up the bases :3
languid jay
My personal bugbear is "I gotta add some shit to the base" so I've collected a bunch of basing material and straight up just using used dry tea leaves, hah.
compact pier
basing does so much but I just don't have the impulse to do it haha
languid jay
Haha.
I do make my own texture paste, which is just sand, white glue, paint, and a bit of water. Mixed into an almost slushy consistency and slopped on.
I do have a friend who does their own and his is a bit more interesting:
I think I have perfected my cheap af texture paste mix, and the magic ingredient is spackle/wall filler.
Like.. 80% filler, 10% sand, 10% craft paint
compact pier
I do want to get into that sort of stuff more yeah
languid jay
It can be surprisingly cost-effective if you don't mind doing a bit of work.
Like, my texture technique is quite literally just sand I found outside. idgaf.
Tea leaves make for great flocking. I do actually like, use the tea leaves as intended (so, soaking'em in hot water for 3-5 minutes or w/e), and then put the tea bag on some tinfoil and let it dry for a day or so. You could use the tea as-is without using it of course, but I've sort of convinced myself that using used dried leaves means there's no leftover smell or change of color "bleeding" out there (and probably almost-zero chance of mold growing).
If you have any birch trees around, you can collect the seed pods when they start forming in the fall. They make for perfect to-scale leaves.
idle girder
Not sure if this scrawling works or not
idle girder
Thanks! I'm kinda fumblin in the dark with this guy
languid jay
If you want to make the scrawling a bit more 'raised,' consider doing it first with an off-white color (or black!) and then filling it in with white towards the middle. It'll kinda make it pop more.
Tho that can be tricky depending on the size and overall shakiness of hands.
Or how like some people do the lightning patterns for Night Lords, where it's got a lighter color of the base armor and then white.
idle girder
He's going to get slathered in streaking grime so I figured all that work would be all for naught
languid jay
Okay yeah that's fair, hah
compact pier
space marinesss
gonna do the dread another time
also the lieutenant is still wip I just keep forgetting to finish them off lol
individual sternguard because I'm super proud of them + my intercession team + first apothecary + my chapter master
I realised after taking these photos that I haven't painted the lenses on the sternguard 🙃 but I think I'm gonna do some brown chipping too like on the apothecary
wide dawn
Nice! Are those Statuesque heads I see?
compact pier
yup!!!
wide dawn
Nice, love 'em. I'd love to hear some chapter lore in #1161696278640594954 if there is any.
compact pier
will do
idle girder
Very cool work
Some of these dudes have flesh tearers colors some Blood ang3ls some have the refreshing taste of coca cola
Custom chapter?
compact pier
yeah
firstborn and terminators get the extra black
n sternguard are part of the apothecarion in this chapter so have red/white
misty horizon
photographed all my tyranids from leviathan plus some extra bits at some points
eva scheme?
compact pier
not specifically
purple and black I chose when I was like 10 from some official gw colour scheme, added green and pink for spot colours when I got gud
lunar axle
My own babies ready to paint, with a second batch on the way.
compact pier
ooh nice!!
lunar axle
Not to mention the giant version.
Some parts needed slight reconstruction. Fillament is not particularly suited for such high complexity.
lunar axle
Now we have the full two squads ready to be painted tomorrow.
viral arch
First time painting anything nurgle. This was so fun, nurgle bros I finally get it!
lunar axle
Making progress on my big centerpiece.
raven hornet
Based on anounced killteam for votann, my conversion: Thein Stürmman!
lilac marsh
Corsairs
lunar axle
One biggiature done for the expo.
languid jay
lunar axle
Just the basing left, then my squads are ready for a game.
last axle
Not painted yet but just wanted to share my new models I just finished up on
(Sorry if the pictures kinda suck)
languid jay
https://www.humblebundle.com/software/3d-printable-beastmasters-compendium-bundle-software Biiiig bundle.
compact pier
Not painted yet but just wanted to share my new models I just finished up on
(So...
oooh these are so cool
wide dawn
Not painted yet but just wanted to share my new models I just finished up on
(So...
Always fun to see!
lunar axle
They're ready for transport. All that's left is to pray I can safely get them to the expo.
lilac marsh
Kill team complete
viral arch
The backlog shrinks! Unfortunately that means I'm closer to having to paint 50 horrors...
lilac marsh
The backlog shrinks! Unfortunately that means I'm closer to having to paint 50 h...
Contrast paint is your only hope
obtuse maple
god I love contrast paint
wide dawn
Kill team complete
I love the contrast in the color scheme!
lime haven
It just works™️
obtuse maple
Some fantastic looking custodes!
limpid root
Kill team complete
huge fan of the orange
viral arch
Bats done. Just got 10 direwolves left and I'll be out of soulblight to paint
lilac marsh
huge fan of the orange
Painting orange is pain but it's a labor of love
limpid root
Exactly, and I've only been doing it for a single shoulder pad of my infantry 😄
lilac marsh
I've started doing orange paint then orange contrast over it to even out the coloration a bit
lime haven
Oh heck I left my brushes sitting in conditioner all night instead of 30 minutes
Hopefully they'll be alright
languid jay
If nothing else, a cleaning with some brush soap should fix it.
idle girder
viral arch
idle girder
manic raven
got a hvt done for infinity!
languid jay
obtuse maple
got a hvt done for infinity!
Looks great! Good face, and the fabric looks excellent
limpid root
got a hvt done for infinity!
Oooh that's awesome. Which model is that? I've been trying to hunt down some good civilian minis
manic raven
Oooh that's awesome. Which model is that? I've been trying to hunt down some goo...
The Galactic Hitchhiker from Dire Foes 13. I was lucky enough to find her standalone online, as I don't play either of the factions with characters in that pack.
limpid root
Sweet, thanks 😁
compact pier
got a hvt done for infinity!
face is so good!!!
idle girder
wide dawn
Looking good!
granite fox
my dnd mini!
compact pier
nice!!!!!
lunar axle
Feels good to finally be painting some stuff again.
lunar axle
Thanks! It's a bit of a deviation from the actual army scheme, to make it stand out more, sort of like a lifeboat.
My haqq are a sort of coast guard unit.
lunar axle
The actual scheme only uses orange as more of an accent, with the base being teal and sand.
lunar axle
what unit is this?
An Al Fasid unit. Heavy infantry.
lunar axle
Thanks! It's based on a crab I found somewhere, then I went on to try it on an actual crab model to test the effect. Guess that's an objective marker now.
I'm also particularly happy with this hassassin ayyar.
lunar axle
It's a blast to paint, I almost forgot how it felt. Been painting almost exclusively Battletech lately. This has been sitting around for too long.
With their mascot.
lunar axle
I still have a pile of Star Wars: Legion stuff, as well as some old Warhammer begging to be repainted, so I'm slowly working my way through stuff. Except then I got an entire company plus a star worth of Battletech again, and I'm barely halfway through the first half of my collection on that.
lunar axle
he's got a little rock!
He does, and he's very proud of it.
obtuse maple
Crab.
twin oyster
Sapphic day of visibility happened so this got painted.
obtuse maple
Hatchet!! Love the color scheme
lunar axle
Hatchetwoman.
twin oyster
Close it's the bigger one
Because sometimes the ax doesn't cut it that's what the AC 20 is for
wide tartan
Feels good to finally be painting some stuff again.
Oh is that the uh.....
New hassassin heavy drop troop?
Ohhh it's an al fasid
lime haven
HATCHETMAN DETECTED
BASED
BASED
B-
lunar axle
Ohhh it's an al fasid
Yep, from the starter set.
olive raven
My current necromunda gang
manic raven
Have an infinity tournament next weekend. If Im going to show up fully painted like I want to I need to do 27 models this week 😓
obtuse maple
That's... A lot
idle girder
Have an infinity tournament next weekend. If Im going to show up fully painted ...
batch paintin time
manic raven
I'm so bad at that. I have trouble letting myself do a mid paint job because I think all my models are so cool and deserve my best
But my best is like 6-12 hours a model, which would make it literally impossible.
twin oyster
More Battletech because I did an anniversary gift for my partner
twin oyster
But my best is like 6-12 hours a model, which would make it literally impossible...
have you ever heard of Slap Chop?
manic raven
Yep! I'm not a huge fan. I normally paint up from black to try to get that strong contrast but I can't do all that if I want to finish quickly.
Most of my painting time lately has been trying to push up to competition level so I have not spent much time developing any of the quick techniques with contrast/speed paint/Xpress color
twin oyster
Yeah, that's valid and understandable. I've been using a mix of techniques to get back to that level myself, but it's been quite the challenge after such a long hiatus.
I actually find good uses for slap chop as a way to set my basecoat and initial highlights before I really start in on a mini
manic raven
I do something similar to block out my colors. I mostly use scalecolor and proacryl so they glaze nicely.
at least when i'm not going directly on top of black. gotta go with a full coat when i am
twin oyster
I would love to improve my glazing. I remember 20 years ago messing around with future floor finish as a better flow improver and that went somewhere but I can't remember that much.
It's definitely a weak spot I have right now
manic raven
Definitely helps to lean in to the strengths of your paints. Glazing is super easy with scalecolor but I struggle with ProAcryl as it soaks up more water and separates more than Vallejo/citadel.
ProAcryl glazes nicely but it does stop working well if you thin too much, so you have to accept at least a minimum amount of coverage. On the other hand it's super pigmented and lends itself well to blocking out color and getting bright highlights
Mediums can be nice for glazing but I prefer using just water. Medium is basically transparent paint so it still builds up as you do more and more layers. It's great if you're doing 1-2 coats to smooth transitions or tint something but if your building up color over many coats you'll eventually lose detail.
idle girder
misty horizon
Kill team nightmares releases tomorrow yes?
lunar axle
Al Fasid nearly done. I just need to get my glue back for basing and glueing the arm back on.
ornate tendon
Hell Yeah love a skrungly lil freak
twin oyster
ooo neat
olive raven
Yeah lol I love that long armed hunch posture. Bats are a good parallel.
twin oyster
Reminds me of what I did a long time ago for chaos spawn
languid jay
Twitter
compact pier
oh fun
olive raven
wow those are cool models
misty horizon
Assembling the ninja was a nightmare
lunar axle
Oh sweet. It's been too long since I've played Crisis Protocol, my entire collection is just standing in my display.
twin oyster
Oh that test sheet is a good idea.
Actually, that's also a really good idea, just print a whole bunch of random heads and practice skin tones more, since I'm really rusty on that with all my battletech lol
lunar axle
That's a mood. Battletech is such a different experience with painting.
olive raven
I love john blanche’s art so this was my attempt at doing something in his style
Hopefully it still reads as a ultramarine apothecary lol
twin oyster
I feel like there's so much rust and weathering that it reads as Death Guard to me >_>
and yeah, painting battlemechs and 6mm scale in general is so different, it was interesting to go back and forth (I've got a new showpiece model coming tonight prolly)
Tonight or tomorrow anyway, depends how I feel about this water effect
obtuse maple
Ahhhh I have some resins for water I want to get around to trying. Not been feeling the painting for past month or two, but I'll finish the weathered Gundam model in a lake eventually
twin oyster
Battletech has become my main game lately, but honestly I'm mostly in everything for the painting now. Actually getting models on the table happens very rarely
I've been using Woodland Scenics water effects paste religiously for about 20 years now, probably about 20% of its use cases actually involve water.
olive raven
I feel like there's so much rust and weathering that it reads as Death Guard to ...
I mean hey 40k isnt the cleanest setting
twin oyster
If you ever need mud, sludge, slime, fire, plasma, or really ANYTHING translucent that isn't precise, go nuts
Oh I totally agree that 40k isn't teh cleanest setting I love some grimdark weathering. I just think it's hard to register ultramarines unless I can at least see SOME of the blue armor
I think if the rest of the command squad has a bit less it'll work out fine
Or do apoths still get white armor post codex retcon?
I genuinely forget because I only play space wolves and we don't get apoths lol
olive raven
Wait they dont have white armour any more?
I thought they were all white except for the shoulder pad with their chapter colours and insignia
twin oyster
Looks like it's hit or miss now
You can go either way the 2 apothecaries in the studio ultramarines army one's white one's blue lol
olive raven
Oh well for the longest time I can swear they all wore only the white -a pauldron
twin oyster
ya they definitely did
olive raven
I mean one of the contrast paints is called “Apothecary white”
twin oyster
I remember some changes to that when primaris were released
but I have been much less around 40k these days
like, the last time I played 40k actively 4chan was leftist
that was what, 20 years lol?
I remember new necrons
and a lot of memes
thorny crystal
Afaik apothecaries still wear the whole-white
compact pier
in 'codex' armies they do yeah
if anything primaris kinda. emphasised even more while there were more variations in the original models
twin oyster
Gotcha. So the studio smurfs just kinda messed it up
even GW's painters aren't perfect I guess
compact pier
do you have a picture of this blue apothecary?
is it just the old command squad one
compact pier
oh yeah that's a case of being before apothecaries are all all-white
twin oyster
really? Cos I remember them being white in 3rd ed and that's definitely the 5th ed line model
that's NOT the old command squad box
that's the "old to some people" box
twin oyster
yeah I think it is that one
so there was a time apoths were chapter colors between 2nd-4th and primaris? TIL
I'm guessing that's what I'm remembering.
compact pier
you just painted it however you wanted. dark angels never cared iirc
twin oyster
Yeah I was mostly playing Warmachine at that time
along with I think mostly everyone else lol
compact pier
lexicanum is a great source which is. unfortunately not loading at the moment so
twin oyster
skubmachine lol
misty horizon
Oh sweet. It's been too long since I've played Crisis Protocol, my entire collec...
nice, which ones do you have?
viral arch
Painted up some darkoath trying to figure out a scheme. Only thing I'm not certain on is the pants/shirt colour
twin oyster
I love that flaming sword
wide dawn
Love me some Darkoath!
lunar axle
Let me see if I can find pics.
I did not, but I'll be home in a bit. I'll take some pics then.
lunar axle
As promised. @misty horizon here's my MCP collection.
misty horizon
As promised. <@358078345151512577> here's my MCP collection.
Ooh thanks
Mine’s probably going to be an eclectic collection of characters I like rather than a coherent competitive team as well
lunar axle
This is mostly the core set, then inhumans and mutants.
I haven't touched the game in ages, but from what I recall, the Inhumans weren't exactly star players. BB packs a punch, and Medusa got nerfed a number of times, but the rest didn't quite do it that well.
My best team comp was Red Skull's Cabal with Medusa, Sinister, Zemo, and some bits n pieces. That did absolutely shred stuff.
last axle
She has been peeled, and will soon be reposed and repainted
🙏
last axle
Redoing cuz that was one of the first models I ever built and it looked kinda turbo janky
twin oyster
gotta love an archer
lime haven
I have 3 of em, this is #2. They just work™️
twin oyster
yep
lunar axle
Well, then I'll have to give em a try.
There's one in the Alpha Strike box I picked up, so I'll be sure to put it to good use in a lance.
ornate tendon
Love to see any destroid doing well in the wild
minor delta
Figured I would ask here as well, do these look primed properly for handpainting? I don't have access to be able to spray paint
I'm using vallejo's grey primer but I couldn't seem to find a lot of images with handbrush priming online, and when I did they seemed to cover the entire mini instead of having the fade so wasn't super sure
glass gulch
Hey how long does it take for isopropyl to remove primer?
This is my result after a few hours in the alcohol and some scrubbing
The primer hasn’t come off from the Tzaangor Kitbash and the paint is still stuck upon the normal tzaangor
minor delta
I used paint thinner and it took one night of sitting in it + hot water + scrubbing but I wouldn't recommend it if you don't know what it'll do to it
glass gulch
What will it do to it?
minor delta
for gunpla it removed most of it but left spots
I have 0 idea what it will do to non gunpla
glass gulch
Yeah this is GW plastic n shit
minor delta
Yeah this is GW plastic n shit
yeah don't use it
https://www.reddit.com/r/40k/comments/fw5ae2/psa_this_is_what_paint_thinner_does_to_a_gw_model/ most people are saying isopropyl alcohol
glass gulch
I’ll just stick to Isopropyl
lilac marsh
Hey how long does it take for isopropyl to remove primer?
Primer is tough to get off, I'd go for like 48hrs in 90%
lilac marsh
If the primer is particularly thick, you might have to scrub off a layer, then go back in the IPA
manic raven
Figured I would ask here as well, do these look primed properly for handpainting...
Should be fine. You don't really need a ton of primer, just enough that there's something for the paint to grab onto. The only concern there is the underlying plastic tone showing through, so you may have to do some extra layers (or not if you're painting a similar color to the original)
manic raven
Hey how long does it take for isopropyl to remove primer?
Depends on the model and the primer. Plastic w/ spray primer is one of the hardest to strip. It'll do it eventually, but you may have to do a few soak/scrub cycles to take off what you can and let the alcohol get better surface area on what's left. Simple Green cleaner does a little better than isopropyl in my experience but not enough to go out of your way when you've already started.
Stripping off metal models is way easier than plastic. Resin models are the most difficult in my experience.
minor delta
Should be fine. You don't really need a ton of primer, just enough that there's ...
yep, planning on doing multiple layers because I want to change the color
last axle
re-built my commander after peeling them the other day, and a rather blurry, very old picture of the goofy pose and one of my first ever model paint jobs from before
wide dawn
:o
glass gulch
RIP army painter technical paints
languid jay
?
glass gulch
They’re discontinuing them and replacing them with a new line Called “Fanatic”
I’m pretty sure the only difference is that fanatic is better sorted out
languid jay
Is it just a rebranding or new formulas?
glass gulch
Rebrand prolly
wide dawn
Fanatic is a reformulation for their somewhat infamous acrylics, idk if the technical ones included are drastically different
cobalt summit
Anybody got tips for painting fire? From everything I'm seeing it's basically just doing some blending in reverse order, the recesses will be the brightest/hottest parts
glass gulch
Fanatic is a reformulation for their somewhat infamous acrylics, idk if the tech...
I think technical is just some generic warpaints
The primer is only coming off if u scrape at it with a tooth pick
I’ve been able to scrape off some of the paint from the shoulder pad
glass gulch
Well I’m off to buy some LA’s
full hinge
Fanatic is a reformulation for their somewhat infamous acrylics, idk if the tech...
Infamous for what?
languid jay
Bad quality, mostly.
Some of their colors are good, others have some piss-poor coverage. Kinda all over the place.
They seem like they're making a concerted effort to improve though, as evident by their speedpaint 2.0 line.
full hinge
Ah ok thanks
languid jay
I swear by AP washes, personally. I've not tried their speedpaint line, and what little of their paints I did try I didn't like the coverage. But that was over a decade ago.
full hinge
I've been using mostly army painter stuff recently since I got a good deal on a 55 paint box and I've been pretty happy
I agree the coverage is a little lacking but its easy enough to just use a little more or a second coat ime
slender crest
some colours just infamously have poor coverage across a lot of lines, idk if that's improved in recent years but like
my kingdom for a yellow that covers
full hinge
I recall the GW basecoat yellow being pretty good for that
But its also kind of a darker mustard so you need more coats anyway
slender crest
yellows/oranges/reds in general were just kind of mid to bad coverage wise when I was big into painting, hoping the stuff I'm trying will be better
full hinge
Admittedly I've also been using a wet palette for the first time recently and it's taken me a little while to dial in how much it thins paints when I thin with it
languid jay
yellows/oranges/reds in general were just kind of mid to bad coverage wise when ...
All three of those have gotten massive improvements over the years. Speedpaint/contrast/xpress helps a lot with that too, but even things like colored washes cut down a lot on having to do more coats.
slender crest
thank god
the things I've seen people do to paint imperial fists are wild
I liked the colour scheme as a teenager but made it through like one marine before I said fuck that
languid jay
For oranges there's the Funny Trick™️ of doing the base color pink and then putting a yellow ink over it.
full hinge
Same haha
I needed like 5 coats to get it properly parade yellow
If I do IFs I'm putting them in a codex approved camo so I only need to paint a little yellow
languid jay
Also like, it's become a lot more affordable to get some basic airbrushing going which makes doing yellow and orange and red way less of a hassle.
'course, rattlecans are and remain a solid option for yellow.
slender crest
the 2005 meta was like
-ink or spray yellow over white base
-dip in oil based wood stain
-attach to power drill to spin off excess
languid jay
Things have gotten only slightly more advanced than that, haha.
We do oil washes now, like real artists.
full hinge
I remember the old stain techniques lmao
slender crest
yeah this was before the days of even GW washes
languid jay
Honestly it's still a valid technique, especially for hordes.
slender crest
in their defense it did work
languid jay
If I had to paint like 100 skeletons? Bone white spray, dip, fuckin' done in an afternoon.
slender crest
it wasn't gonna win any awards but the effort-result delta was good
languid jay
Oh for sure, I never felt there was any shame in doing it despite some real snot-nosed dork-ass losers hating on it.
full hinge
That was me
I painted like a hundred boys the hard way haha
Perks of being in school and cajoling an art teacher to give me credit when I painted minis in a free period
languid jay
I never did it because I'm insane and will do things the hard way but like, whatever dude you got your shit painted and it looks fine, it's better than playing against walls of unprimed plastic.
slender crest
I could never stay focused on one project long enough to finish an entire cohesive army, so I had a patchwork of different paintjobs and different armies lmao
the number of times I stripped and repainted space marines because actually I want to do this chapter now
leaning into it and sticking to kill team scale stuff this time around
obtuse maple
Honestly the new imperial fist contrast paint is incredible
Maybe my favorite mini I've done was with it heh
cobalt summit
Thats some tasty fucking battle damage holy moly
obtuse maple
Don't have great photos yet, but also worked on an imperial fist tank that was stolen by world eaters, with the base yellow also that same contrast
slender crest
Damn that's good
lilac marsh
My army is very orange and my go-to has been priming white (or just basecoating white in orange areas) then using a mix of GW contrast paints and Golden SoFlat cadmium orange paints as desired.
Its criminal that my white paint has better coverage than orange
This was done with white primer, basecoat cadmium orange, shade with magmadroth flame contrast, then highlight with like a random mix of orange tints. Works fine as long as you never prime black.
Almost done with these scorpions
full hinge
ooh I like those scorpions
lilac marsh
It took a little while to figure out how to work green into a orange/purple army color scheme
misty horizon
I recall the GW basecoat yellow being pretty good for that
Averland sunset has great coverage
viral arch
This is the most I can bring myself to do on these flamers, the more I paint them the more I hate their sculpt it's actually making me want to paint horrors instead
olive raven
ornate tendon
hell yeah these mfs filthy
glass gulch
This is the most I can bring myself to do on these flamers, the more I paint the...
Speaking of flamers
Do these fuckers look any good?
It was my first attempt at flamers and I think it’s pretty good
glass gulch
There’s some blotches but they look pretty good
glass gulch
Just gotta finish up the base there.
I have no clue how to base lol
languid jay
Easiest way is just to glue some sand on there and paint it up, maybe a grass tuft or two.
Black sand with a dark grey as a drybrush would contrast nicely with the color scheme. Maybe some purple drybrushed here and there for a "galaxy" theme to it, would fit Tzeentch pretty well.
Paint the rim black and jobs a good'un.
minor delta
Oh speaking of painting stuff
How do brush sizes work for like
The 0s
Like 00 is smaller than 0 right?
twin oyster
yep, more 0s more smaller.
10/0 is the smallest you'll normally find from quality manufacturers and with good brushes you won't need anything that small. Before I understood the care of high quality brushes I did way too much with really tiny brushes and burned through cheap detailers like firewood
minor delta
I have uhh
twin oyster
but then I finally got it through my head to buy good stuff, bought some Rosemary & Co No. 33s, a set of which cost me less than $100, and painted this entirely with a #4 round as a study of "this is what you can do if your brush has a proper point"
minor delta
This kinda brand
Paint coats are not the best but like
Tbf it's like 6-9 layers of paint and 3 layers of primer
But more so the lines/edge quality is bad
twin oyster
I don't recognize the brand, but they look like cheap synthetics and it looks like white paint has gotten up into the ferrules of that #2 flat and caused it to separate. I recommend TRYING to clean it out, but it may be too far gone.
those still make good drybrushes tho
I've been converted from old paintbrushes to the church of the eyeshadow brush tho
eyeshadow brushes are amazing for drybrushing
minor delta
I don't recognize the brand, but they look like cheap synthetics and it looks li...
I'll double check once I get home
I should also mention
I did prime via brush
So if brush is not the best choice, it would def make it worse given how many layers
twin oyster
Brush priming tends to be thicker and less consistent than spray can or airbrush priming. I avoid it when I can, but if you're using a good primer like Vallejo's surface primer, brush is fine, just be careful to make sure the model is clean and your coats are consistent and thin.
The thing about primer coats is you really want "two thin coats", because if you're over-thinning you'll fill in details. If you needed 3-4 coats, you thinned too much.
consistency is key
also you can TOTALLY still mess it up with an airbrush lol
or a spray can
minor delta
It's on gunpla so they tend to not stick, so I've had to use 3 coats for full coverage
But yeah it was with Vallejo surface primer
Which uhh
This was 1 layer of primer
twin oyster
oh. That does seem a bit thin for VSP white, did you shake it sufficiently? That stuff likes to settle, very badly.
minor delta
VSP gray, also yus, like I said, it didn't seem to want to stick, had to do 3 layers to get enough coverage
but also I might just be not using enough
cause I felt like if I did anymore it was globbing
as for brushes, I have uhh, Winsor & Newton 3, 2, 1, 0 all round, and then Creative Mark Mimik Kolinsky 2, 1, 0, 0/2, 0/3
The other brushes (that bigger one I used that's a 2 bright is one that came in a cheaper package of brushes)
I only used the 0 winsor and newton and then the relatively cheap 2 bright brush
twin oyster
nodnod okay so you've got fancier brushes than I do
yeah for VSP give it a hell of a shake, and sometimes you will need 3 coats but don't glob ever, do more coats
it's meant as an air primer that can be brushed, so it's going to be very thin, I USUALLY get away with two coats with an airbrush
minor delta
I'll have to practice some more when I get more kits ready
twin oyster
Mhm!
glass gulch
I bought some LA’s totally awesome
I will check in two weeks
Perhaps even in like a few days
minor delta
yeah for VSP give it a hell of a shake, and sometimes you will need 3 coats but ...
oh wait, should I be using the better brushes for the primer when I practice or keep using the cheap one (that I haven't tried to fix yet)
twin oyster
You don't really need top end brushes for priming, but as long as you're taking care of your brushes you can totally use your good large brushes for priming.
I have primer brushes for that personally, which are pretty disposable >_>
they're just cheap synthetics, but I try to keep them clean and in good condition and cycle them out when they aren't
lilac marsh
oh wait, should I be using the better brushes for the primer when I practice or ...
Primer will kill good brushes if you don't get them super clean. I'd save the good brushes for detailed painting and use cheap ones for priming/base coats/etc.
viral arch
I can't believe I'm saying it but blues were fun to paint. Maybe it's just Stockholm from the flamers talking
full hinge
I think horrors are a lot of fun to paint what's stockholm-y about it haha
twin oyster
Primer will kill good brushes if you don't get them super clean. I'd save the go...
Yeah this advice. Listen to this person I am dumb today.
actually given how many brushes I've killed in my lifetime just don't listen to me about brush care lol
I have improved and reformed but my track record is uh, not great.
viral arch
I think horrors are a lot of fun to paint what's stockholm-y about it haha
The flamers were so awful to paint I'm concerned the change of pace is clouding my opinion lol
lunar axle
For oranges there's the Funny Trick™️ of doing the base color pink and then putt...
For orange, I start with Vallejo Parasite Brown. Got a small bottle in a skin tones pack, but I am getting a proper sized one first chance I get.
Actual witchcraft as far as oranges go.
lilac marsh
I just spent 90 minutes confused as to why all my dark red paints came out really bright when airbrushed but it turns out I had the work lamp for my airbrush booth set to a warm light
obtuse maple
I can't believe I'm saying it but blues were fun to paint. Maybe it's just Stock...
Those flames look fantastic
glad shale
Actual witchcraft as far as oranges go.
This sculpt is so good
And your paints elevate it
wide dawn
https://gyazo.com/da7a6663e1ecace0f9940e3f19f481cf Thinking of getting one or two of these, think it's good for the price?
For dropper bottles that is
languid jay
I have two of those, they work great.
twin oyster
Those are cheap enough I almost regret 3d printing mine
but yeah I use more or less the same thing
twin oyster
Actual witchcraft as far as oranges go.
I'm going to guess VGC scrofulous brown and vmc bright orange highlighted up with VGC golden yellow?
or possibly citadel averland sunset?
lunar axle
Not quite. Vallejo Parasite Brown, then Citadel Fire Dragon Bright.
lunar axle
And your paints elevate it
Thanks! It was a blast to paint.
teal yoke
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/706715024608985109/1235095334930219068/IMG_5196.jpg?ex=66331faa&is=6631ce2a&hm=a64a525b43d8c5b4f24c45bcdb45ed6544c36519beda9e88db9a42a4c6f3b72a&
Solar Aux test scheme settled. Been a long while away and trying to get a decent contrast scheme together to get like uh... too many Solar Auxilia painted to play
misty horizon
as a gsc painter I know your pain
teal yoke
Shakes hands in so many infantry
glass gulch
Hey how long does it take for a mini to soak in LA’s totally awesome for the primer to come off?
I’ve taken them out and the paint seems to have softened
Imma leave them in for another few days
languid jay
A model can safely stay in LA's for like, weeks at a time, so there's no chance of it being ruined. But general rule is minimum 24 hours.
I usually let it sit for 3-4 days unless the paint job is super thin.
idle girder
Hey how long does it take for a mini to soak in LA’s totally awesome for the pri...
for primers you might have to get in there with an old tooth brush and a wooden tooth pick, sometimes it can be incredibly stubborn no matter the soak time
languid jay
Sometimes, especially with ebay rescues, it just never really comes off. So you gotta know when to call it a day and just prime it again.
idle girder
Sometimes, especially with ebay rescues, it just never really comes off. So you ...
i wish i knew what the hell krylon put in their cans in like 2007 because it is immortal
languid jay
Might've been the kind that bonds to plastic really well.
glass gulch
for primers you might have to get in there with an old tooth brush and a wooden ...
Yeah I’ve mostly been tooth picking at it
Old tooth brushes don’t seem to work
lilac marsh
These scorpions are striking all over the place
twin oyster
https://www.amazon.com/SE-7615NB-BRUSH-Firearm-Cleaning-Bristles/dp/B002V129NM
I'll be honest the seconded heavy nylon cleaning brushes are the shiz
also, one of the things I loved about metal models is you could just dunk em in industrial degreaser and bye bye paint
you can "theoretically" strip plastics this way but uh, be careful
I have done so successfully I have also used it to soften and re-pose some stuff, I have also dissolved a nonzero amount of arms and legs and other thin bits.
operate at own risk
glass gulch
Just built up an Aspiring Sorcerer
glad shale
Hey chat, weird question
I've had this fella for a few years, his sword broke and i swore i had held on to the other bit of it but i appears to have also gotten lost
Any ideas on what to do to replace the missing part and make his weapon whole
lunar axle
I don't even mind the broken sword. I'd try to make it look even more broken.
glad shale
Its just too short for me
lunar axle
Like it's some ancient relic that broke. Or he just smashed it mid fight.
glad shale
Is the thing
lunar axle
Hmm, fair.
Some plastic plate filed into shape could fit.
Or go Tears of the Kingdom on it. Fuse some random object onto the end.
glad shale
If i could figure out a way to mount it it id put a rod or something into it and try to sculpt green stuff around that
obtuse maple
I love leaning into stuff like that, so I'd probably cut into the sword a bit vertical to make it look like an intentional break
You could also try green stuff yeah,but I've found it super hard to use convincingly. Definitely a learned skill
glad shale
Gotta start somewhere
obtuse maple
100% yeah
ornate tendon
Third opinion in favor of The Sword That Was Broken being a sick motif that I would personally lean straight into were it my mini;
But to execute a repair I would personally trim the remains right down to the hilt and then start fresh, probably with a piece of fairly thick strip styrene
full hinge
I've had this fella for a few years, his sword broke and i swore i had held on t...
I'd look at usin a bit of plasticard to look like a splinter extending up from the broken weapon
gleaming shore
hello painters
so turns out that the store i ordered my first set of miniatures and paints from never actually had the paints in question, and were "waiting on their suppliers" for two months straight
this is the second time that i've ordered a comprehensive paints collection and had it not arrive for months on end, and i've lost patience with the concept entirely
i plan to instead purchase all the specific paints i need for these models individually, and after consulting a couple of online tutorials for this specific set of models, these are the colours i specifically believe i need:
- slightly brighter mustard yellow (base)
- shading fleshwash
- grey metallic base
- copper metallic base
- red base
- leather brown base
- wooden brownish-black base
- bone off-white base
- black / greenish-black shading wash```with this list to work from, what brands do you recommend for a beginner?
given my previous experiences, i am anxious about accidentally purchasing the Wrong Products™️ and bollocking it before i even truly begin
lunar axle
Vallejo's paints are my favourite. They work well, and there's plenty of colours.
GW has pretty good paints but the company does questionable things and the pots are prone to poor closing (and thus drying out) or knocking over and spilling in the case of shades.
ornate tendon
I am a Vallejo partisan but honestly any line of acrylics marketed towards minis is a fine place to start
languid jay
I'm a fan of Reaper's lines of paints, especially their triad sets (3 complimentary colors, work great for dark>mid>light combos).
Good selection of colors, and already a bit pre-thinned so you don't have to thin them down much at all (if ever). Their metallics are only so-so, I usually go with Vallejo or GW for those.
ornate tendon
I think perhaps more important that picking The Right Stuff is just committing to something adequate and getting those hours in
lunar axle
I've heard good stuff about Reaper too, yeah.
obtuse maple
I'd also chuck my hat in for Vallejo
Altho ... God I do love the GW contrast paints
glass gulch
Any ideas on what to do to replace the missing part and make his weapon whole
You could make him undead and chip him up
Chat: I finally found a way to get Ahriman for FREE
Finally: Femboy Ahriman will soon be real!
Also: what is the difference between Prodigal Sons and base TS?
compact pier
ahriman's personal group
glass gulch
Like in paint
compact pier
oh nothing afaik
glass gulch
Damn
compact pier
they're basically the prototypical thousand sons under ahriman so everyone is copying them
glass gulch
Ah. Thought they had a deeper blue and were a bit more gold
Also why are some white and not blue?
compact pier
something like these
different warbands will use different colour schemes, blue and gold is just the default
some warbands still use red and silver even
glass gulch
Okay I think I’ve got my paint scheme done for TS
- Psykers are White
- Chumps are Blue
- Elites are Purple
However, only sorcerers have different armor schemes. The Chumps and Elites have similar armor but different robes
obtuse maple
That blade lookin clean as fuq
glass gulch
Chat: how do I thin paint?
slender crest
add water
glass gulch
How much tho?
slender crest
just looking to get it to flow better, avoid brushstrokes being left behind and clogging up of details
it's a little bit of a trial and error thing to get a feel for it tbh
if your paint starts to flow like a wash into cracks and details it's too thin
glass gulch
Should I add water to paint or paint to water?
slender crest
paint on whatever you're using as a palette, add a little water to that
I say it's kind of trial and error because there's no one perfect ratio, depends on what brands or even colours within those brands of paints you're using, how old the paint is, what generally feels good to you or what kind of techniques you're going after etc
gleaming shore
i think i've got my set together now
slender crest
get it to flow nicely over the model but still give you decent coverage
gleaming shore
various vallejo and reaper core colors for base coats, fanatic warpaints for metallics, and citadel shading washes
slender crest
easier to start with less water and add more than overdo the water and have to waste more paint getting the ratio back under control
gleaming shore
now i'm just trying to find something beige and sandy for a base coat, quite possibly even something for airbrushing
i know a guy with an airbrush i can borrow for that purpose, at least
or i could just get the citadel zandri dust spraypaint
slender crest
if you want something earthtone and airbrush ready I'd probably look at historical minis paint lines
something like vallejo model air
66 different shades of airbrush ready brown
glass gulch
easier to start with less water and add more than overdo the water and have to w...
Gotcha
slender crest
Gotcha
when I thin I'm basically looking to break the surface tension of the paint that lets it be kind of blobby and sit raised, without getting so thin it goes transparent and starts just running into cracks on the mini
glass gulch
I’ve heard to mix it until it’s “like milk”
slender crest
yeah people like to say that but it never really clicked for me
what felt milklike to me was always thinned past the point of usefulness
imo just try adding water and seeing how different amounts feel and do what works
cobalt spire
My two colour things is anything not AK paints/products. Second thing is when thinning, I like to add a bit of water on the palette next to the paint and dragging it into the paint until a satisfactory flow so I don't need to dip the brush into water to bring in more water
compact pier
I think I learned to thin by moving to using a wet palette and just not thinking about it and then going back to using dry palettes more often and going for the same consistency
cobalt spire
Also, accidentally over-thinning ain't the end, and might actually give you some hints on what consistency you are looking for
last axle
And you can always just add more paint to thicken it back up a little, to a point
compact pier
or actually I think at first I used a rule of thumb from watching the old duncan tutorials which is just 'put a brush worth of paint on the palette, and add a brush worth of water' essentially
glad shale
Put a pin in to try and use as a skeleton (heh) to build greenstuff around
glass gulch
If you have any sheet metal you can just press it onto the GS to get some texture
languid jay
See I woulda just kept it as a broken sword, maybe damaged it up a bit more to look intentional, but you're going the extra mile here.
compact pier
idk where this image is from but
notice the elbows on a surface and the base of the palms together
I think there's unfortunately a limit to how much it can maybe help but just having good grounded posture is very important
languid jay
Also don't hold your breath. Breathe out.
compact pier
here he's using some kind of painting handle-they help So Much but you can just use even like a cork with the model blue tacked on top
lilac marsh
Using a brush that actually holds a tip is good
glass gulch
Yeah I need smaller brushes
lilac marsh
Sometimes you aren't shaky you just are using a brush with a bad tip
glass gulch
I’m probably just gonna try to clean up the model instead of just scrapping ur whole
compact pier
yeah absolutely
lilac marsh
Painting handles are also super helpful
compact pier
also don't be too hard on yourself - thousand sons are notoriously detailed models
languid jay
Yeah I need smaller brushes
PRO TIP: shoot the cyberdemon till it dies Use the largest brush you can get away with. Smaller =/= better.
compact pier
firmness and quality makes a much bigger difference yeah
lilac marsh
I use a #2 sable brush for almost everything except washes and metallics
It was $5 on sale at a local art store
languid jay
Yeah. Getting some brush soap also helps immensely in extending the life of your brushes.
compact pier
I really need to do that haha
languid jay
I bought some like 3 years ago and I'm maybe halfway through it.
You only really need to use brush soap after a painting session, rarely during it.
lilac marsh
Cleaned up the bisexual lighting wardog. Need to think of where to take it from here
glad shale
What can be more bisexual than bloodstains
glass gulch
Chat i have figured out the perfect ratio of thinned paint
2 small drops of water, 5 drops of paint
the texture should be able to not flow out like a wash/ink, but it wount clump like unthinned base
That should work with TAP’s new fanatic line and probably their old line
compact pier
good job!
compact pier
it's pretty decent considering!
and based which is more than I can say for most of my stuff haha
lime haven
you've done a solid job at surviving the chaos trim zone
cobalt summit
Now that I know there’s a painting specific channel: monolith wips
lunar axle
Those rock.
cobalt summit
Gonna see if I can’t get this thing battle ready or parade ready by June 20th for a tournament
languid jay
lunar axle
Finally picking up this model after way too long. She's big, which makes her intimidating, but I still love the sculpt.
cobalt spire
Finally picking up this model after way too long. She's big, which makes her int...
Where is the sculpt from? Both it and your paint looks lovely
misty horizon
Great job with the skin
lunar axle
Thanks. It's just a basecoat, so there'll be a lot more work.
The sculpt is Ada, from BigChildCreatives.
She even comes with a little robot companion that I've kept seperate.
twin oyster
cool!
lunar axle
I saw it at the world model expo a while ago, and I could not let it go. Never painted 75mm before, does not at all fit with anything I usually do, but I loved the sculpt and the challenge.
last axle
Very heavily wip crisis suits, more just color scheme testing and getting base coats on
twin oyster
loving it 😄
lime haven
That's a really nice color scheme!
twin oyster
as a jade falcon vau galaxy player: agree 😛
last axle
Aight base coat done,
Question though, what do yall think of the yellow on the like tips of the one shoulder gun, should I do more of that? Was kinda unsure if it's too much
minor delta
I think it's a nice complimentary color
However
It definitely makes it more uhh
Firetruck/firefighter themed if that makes sense
last axle
hm yeah that's not exactly what i'm going for lol, i do wanna do some kinda little bit of extra color on there though, just not sure what other colors would work
minor delta
I don't want to tell you which incase it doesnt look good but I know for red, Green works
wide dawn
Do you have a vibe in mind?
lunar axle
Straight green has a tendency to summon the holiday spirit in people, so a teal is usually a great option. It's a direct contrast. Black and white are always safe options, too, though they don't pop as much in colour.
I think the yellow could work great, but it gets in the way of the gold a little. They try to do the same thing and start competing rather than working together, IMO.
I have a feeling adding something like purple sensors could also be a nice accent.
ornate tendon
Visualizing a color wheel is how I usually work through these kind of problems; your red tends magenta and your grey is cool (ie. bluish), so the hottest contrasting color pop to both of those together would be something between green and yellow
Chartreuse, lime green, fluorescent safety yellow
last axle
Actually yeah I did a bright green-yellow for my first batch of these years ago here's one of em
Kinda wanted to do something a little different but along similar lines
oh and the leader units (commander suits, shadowsun, etc.) are using reversed schemes where the grey is dominant
last axle
Do you have a vibe in mind?
i think for the original batch i went with the vibe of like, they're a subset of FSE that got separated from the rest of the enclaves so they use older scrappy equipment (mostly so that i could hide my messy literally-first-models-ever-painted paintjobs under the guise of The Lore™️ lol)
manic raven
I sculpted some tiny valkyries from macross for wargaming. undershot a little and found the tails were a little thing but ultimately they work!
some tweaks and a second print to be sure, hopefully also test printing something else i've made, but im really happy with the result
twin oyster
Actually yeah I did a bright green-yellow for my first batch of these years ago ...
That is NICE! I love the weathering and the energy effect!
last axle
thanks! but yeah i'm going for a similar thing for these new models, just yknow, cleaner
twin oyster
nice, yup, it's a process
a tip for point source lighting: I like layering drybrushes in the midtone of my lighting colour to start out with, because a really hard shadow doesn't get darkened by the light, you still want the hardest shadows to be black, and it makes it easier to show the underlying colour still without just drowning it out. Translucent glazes using contract paint can work too I'm just still learning that
viral arch
obtuse maple
love that axe
