#pc-build-help-and-tech-talk
1 messages · Page 120 of 1
In the O11 Dynamic XL , is there anything I have to do for installing the motherboard besides screwing it in?
I already see the posts in I think.
check if whatever cpu cooler you use requires a backplate
I already put the backplate in, the AIO is installed.
Though I'm unsure if the cooler is low enough.
like, the bit that goes over the cpu?
The pump.
typically for AIOs the pump is integrated into the cpu heatsink.
if the pump is separate, as low as you can get it is generally fine.
What do I do to get the motherboard in?
like handling technique?
I have the CPU, AIO, and RAM installed currently.
Ok, someone make a summary of Shawn's progress
Yes, I am going super slow.
typically, ill put the case on its side
ill grab the whole motherboard by the cpu cooler and the edge opposite the back of the case.
Very, very slow because I don't know what to expect.
I want to know if there is anything else I need to do to the posts before I can install the motherboard because the manual seems to suggest there's an additional step.
lower it gently onto the standoffs, and apply sideways pressure to seat the rear IO panel into the case
depending on the size of your botherboard, you may need to screw in additional standoffs maybe
I see nine standoffs.
are there 9 standoff mounting holes (on the mobo), aligned with the standoffs in the case?
This is what I see.
what is your motherboard?
Asus ROG Strix Z390-E.
press in your IO panel from your mobo box
It's preinstalled on the rear I/O.
looks like your standoffs are good
try not to drag the back of the mobo too much over the standoffs
past troubleshooting tips, i think its probably about time to put the mobo in.
🥁
also, fyi, it took me like 5 hours to build my pc. no harm in going slow.
I just want to know what B pertains to:
B are the standoffs in the case that correspond to
And I'm having a difficult time trying to find which screws are for the motherboard since the photos are pretty difficult to tell.
typically ill just check to see if the screw will thread properly into the standoff
Will the motherboard drop into the standoffs?
make sure the standoffs (B) are very tightly locked in the case
nothing worse than a lose standoff that will attach to the mainboard when losen
no, you will need to manually align the motherboard onto the standoffs.
the way i put in the mobo is first at the IO shield. press against the shield so it locks in, then place it down
generally i have to apply a little bit of leftways force to get the IO seated, then gently align on standoffs.
How do I lift the motherboard and AIO radiator by myself into the case?
typically the best way to get a grip is by holding the cpu heatsink, and supporting the right edge of the mobo.
Yes.
but after its in the case, i typically just use the edge of the mobo to line every hole up
generally ill just leave the radiator hanging loosely but supported by some surface
if thats not possible, i just ask someone to hold the radiator while i drop in the mobo
I probably need someone to hold the radiator.
here's a video of linus dropping in a mobo.
https://youtu.be/v7MYOpFONCU?t=1049
why don't you isntall the radiator first, then the mobo then the AIO cooler onto the CU
*CPU
So take off the pump again?
no
no idea how big your case is but usally that's what I would do. Though I would not invest in AIO's
O11 Dynamic XL is my case.
what you can do, is put the radiator in and not screw it in, then use that slack you get on the tubes to drop in the mobo
yea i know but too lazy to read the manual or check pics. try whatever is best. usually you can hang the radiator on the top of the case, the tubes are quite sturdy
I plan to mount the radiator on the top.
could probably place it near the outside of where its going to be
as near as possible where it wants to be, but giving you breathing room to put the mobo in.
I feel I cannot leave anything out on the table because I have cats who love to roam around and jump on things.
take box of the pc case and place it somewhere, it will distract the cats for a while
besides, the radiator is going to be screwed in after you screw in the mobo.
I can teach you something I learned, that might help approximate. 0 Newton force is when the screw is fit to the hole. This means when you're putting the screw in, and it stops going easily, object is locked, but you haven't tightened it. 0 to 5 Newton is common for smaller details, like screws on a GPU.
For a motherboard, fan, radiator, 10-15 Newton is best advised. In general, that's doing it until 0 Newton, then giving it a "flick of the wrist". It depends on thread count, technically, but you can often get away with doing around 60 degrees, stopping if it feels like it's getting really stuck in there.
How far should the screws go into the radiator when screwing it to the case?
Short screws should not be able to hit the fins, and if they do, that's generally fine.
You tighten them.
You do not want loose screws.
Am I not supposed to see the threads of the screws? Do the screws need to be perfectly flush against the case and radiator?
provided there's nothing in the way of the screw head, you shouldnt be able to see threads.
if the head isnt flush with a surface, you're not bottomed out.
If it locks up when you're screwing it, make sure that the weight of the radiator is not bending the screw into locking, or that the screw isn't too long.
If the radiator is flush with the case, and it locks, you can assume that it is around 0 Newton, but I would recommend screwing in all screws to this point first.
looks fine to me.
And if they're all flush, and they don't move more, you give them that little extra twist.
^
I still am trying to find which screws are meant for the motherboard.
Should be small M3 screws that pair with the standoff, that come in the MB box.
the ones that look like u.f.o's
if they dont thread in easily, they're probably wrong.
These?
Yeah
looks like it to me yeah
If you have the same amount of them as the standoffs, practically.
I hate when this happens
In the manual it says there's 28 of them.
Eh, you round it, you round it.
Only one person to blame and it's your ISP or something
How tight do I tighten these? I am scared now.
Just 10 newton, like I said before.
around 60 degrees, but don't force it if it locks up too bad.
whenever you use a screw as a fastener, until you bottom out the screw, the force required to tighten them should be nearly zero
I stopped the moment I felt resistance. Is that too loose?
Yeah
give it another 1/8 rotation generally.
if you feel like you're really cranking it, then stop
Really, you fasten it until you feel resistance, then a teeny bit more.
^
after you have screwed in all the screws and tightened them, go back and check to see if they have loosened any
does it just keep spinning?
No, I heard something when I was screwing it down, and I wasn't sure if it was because I hit something with the shaft of the screwdriver or if it cracked. I'm really scared.
^
does the screw still resemble a screw?
Is that line above it a crack or a power rail or something?
Take a better picture, using the flashlight, if you can. It's out of focus.
What I think is what happened, just means you tightened down the other screws before you put all screws into their threads.
looks like a trace to me.
Did you tighten any of the screws before you added all of them?
Yes, did I mess up?
No, not really.
But untighten them, then put all screw in on their threads.
The board is very slightly misaligned.
^
It's not something that should damage it.
Is the board cracked?
nah
definitely not.
might have some minor cosmetic damage at worst
but id wager probably not even that
The noise is when the threads eat into the little bit next to the hole.
you would know for sure if you damaged the board
Which doesn't mean anything, because that part is used for ground.
^
you already have it in your mind not to overtighten, so its most likely what has already been said
misaligned board/unevenly tightened
typically the procedure for standoff screws is:
put them all in tightened gently,
then final tightness rotating opposite sides.
but frankly, it matters very little.
^
literally worst case, you might hear some creaking noises or have some trouble putting the other screws in
This is stuff that happens when you tighten screws early. Won't damage the board, even if it makes weird sounds.
^ happens with anything screw related tbh when number of screws is greater than 3.
Are you sure the board is not damaged or broken?
95%
Yep
99%
I'd say 100% because I've eaten into that bit in my build roughly 3mm or so as I had to make my own stand-off holes.
its hard to tell from a picture, but i didnt see anything that has me concerned
How can I find out for sure?
that 5% for me is literally benefit of the doubt
continue.
finish building it and see if it boots lmao
Unless it's clearly visibly damaged, even to you, and even if it made noise, it's fine.
reminds me of door hinges
its basically in their nature to creak
but noone ever really cares
it just goes with the territory
Eh, this is more that it's digging into the side with the threads. Makes a nasty noise as it is metal on metal, but it doesn't actually damage the board.
still goes with the territory of screwing stuff in
if you're too frazzled to continue, take a break or drink some water, and take a deep breath.
if it makes you feel better, i can link you a video where the guy builds a computer doing all the myths of what not to do
still works perfectly fine
ive built a PC on carpet.
oof
while wearing socks
on carpet
in retrospect
i dont know what the fuck i was thinking
Eh. I always touch a tap. I feel when I generate static, and I don't like it.
Then you only have battery ground, and it doesn't always get rid off all the static for me.
i dropped a screw into my psu when changing gpus
So what do I do now for the motherboard screws?
keep going
go corner to corner
tighten them till it starts requiring extra effort
then do anything remaining
then tighten them in the same order you put them in
In order:
Put screw on threads, only a few threads, do not tighten.
All screws.
Tighten all until resistance
Tighten a bit more.
imma sleep, peace.
peace
also, for reference, said video of the guy building a computer doing everything wrong
well, not wrong, but doing every bad practice he could think of
Screws are in.
What do I do about AIO tubes not being inside the case, like they're sticking too far outside the case?
generally, just make sure your radiator is positioned/oriented in such a way that the tubes are in a decent location
youll probably want to flip the radiator upside down
so the tubes go to the right of that picture
also remember with RGB fans that they can be a bit annoying to coordinate lighting if they arent all in the same orientation
Like the radiator to go on the bottom?
nah
so
see how in that picture
the tubes come out of the CPU block
and go left
you want them to go right
Right now I've been very anxious about breaking things and it's almost 5 AM here.
You don't have to, right now. Resting probably is the wiser choice if you're feeling spent
Unless the tubes will hit the fan blades, it should be good regardless.
hell, life can be a bit stressful
I'm just very scared I broke something and that I won't have a working computer in the end.
Shouldn't worry too much about that because you can do everything right, and it still won't work.
lmao
But always fixable.
I don't know what to do with my graphics card though since it's been taken out of my current PC, and I don't know where to put it so it stays safe.
Just put it in the box?
your mobo should have come in an anti static bag
just stick it in the bag, and put the bag somewhere out of the road
I threw that out though.
pro tip
Recommendation
always keep the boxes and contents until everything is up and running
true enough
if you have to RMA everything, you need original packaging
i still have my 1080ti box, despite having it for about 4 years now
Well I didn't keep it, so what do I do now? Every second people correct me I keep thinking about if I should have just paid someone to build the PC for me.
This is just first time stuff. Got to make mistakes to know what they are.
Since I don't think my stress can hold up for the rest of the way.
its just stuff that comes with experience
im sure we can all tell you tales of our first times
it took me 45 minutes to mount my first cpu cooler
It took me 3 hours since I was too scared to move on without someone's guidance.
Being unable to differentiate USB header from Fan header, or power button header. Unable to know which one really was SATA.
oh man, that reminds me
i had a mate mistake a 4 pin fan header for a 4 pin floppy drive header
well, other way around
So what do I do with my graphics card? Should I just put it into the PCIe slot and screw it in?
You have to be able to take your own decisions, Shawn, eventually. We will be here, but you can not be to afraid of every action. Especially if you're sensitive to stress.
But after a fair three hours, if you want to rest, you should.
9 hours.
nice
Yeah, even more reason to.
definitely
I feel like I haven't made that much progress.
You have if you have done it without anyone else doing it for you.
Got to start somewhere.
How should I move the AIO tubes so I can put the glass back on?
Are they even in the way of the glass?
if you can get the glass on without much effort moving tubes, do that, if not, just put the glass somewhere out of the road and go to bed
The tubes are slightly flexible, so if they are against the glass a teeny bit, it won't be a problem.
^
its another case of, if it wont work, you will know before you do it
particularly given how cautious you are being about everything
Would it be obvious if the board was broken?
depending on what broke it, yeah
in your case with the screw thing, there would be a decent sized stress crack if you had caused any real damage
i wouldnt worry about it, most parts are idiot proof these days
Then what is the line next to the screw?
its hard to tell from the photo tbh
its shaped sorta like a crack, except im 90% sure it isnt a crack
if it was a crack, it would extend out from the screw hole
almost looks more like a cosmetic scratch or a little bit of glue or something
im confident in saying you dont need to worry about it
What is the bare minimum I need to power the system on?
technically
sweet fuck all
if you want the bare minimum to POST, then thats a little bit more
motherboard, ram, PSU, CPU
dont need graphics card or storage
and i suppose a CPU cooler, otherwise it will overheat and power off after a short period
a CPU is actually not needed for the POST, there exist dummy CPU's for troubleshooting. the rest is required
true enough, but to the best of my knowledge the socket still needs to be populated
and you dont need the cooler to post either, you just wont get very far beyond that before it shuts off
true
shoutout to linus drop tips not having cpu coolers on his dual socket xeon board
one of my favorite things of all time was the comparison between a 2990 and a 9980 for cooking a pancake
thats the journalism i expect from toms hardware, not this just buy it crap
haha thats a great article
Pulitzer material/10
Hm, food
Lol I made the price for my first build go up by changing the case to a better looking but more expensive one, while also getting more fans to cover all the slots, and getting a pcie extension cord so I can make the GPU vertical... Hehe...
makes sense if you add more components which cost you money also increases the selling price
Make certain the PCIe extension is PCIe 3.0.
It is
I can't send you the link if you wanna make sure
Corsair one had bad reviews unfortunately :(
There was a uhh
Vertical GPU extension which was some brand I forget, but it fits into a lot of cases apparently from user reviews
Not just by one brand at least
I can try to get
The case supports a vertical thing already
o
I just need the cable part lol
I switched it from the 220t to the 680x both corsair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyCtUyDmAdU this thing is ridiculous
hello smart people, can any of yall recommend me some good headphones for this game? ideally $100-200 cad as they are only temporary.
aka i know nothing about headphones and dont want to waste money on bad ones
i dunnp much about gaming headsets in general
but i know that anything that has a good bass is good
i dont need a headset (just some hot headphones) as i already have a decent mic, but any help on what to look for frequency wise or good brands etc would be appreciated
i see i see, ill check if they have anything in my price range. thanks bud
there are noise canceling one with extra bass support
i personally use Marshall headphones but they can be a bit uncomfortable after long gaming sessions
audio-tecnicha is a good brand too
Ever heard of refund? You can buy headphones and try them and get the money back if you aint satisfied, you cant ask something that includes about taste from other poeple you gotta find what fits you
Ever heard of refund? You can buy headphones and try them and get the money back if you aint satisfied, you cant ask something that includes about taste from other poeple you gotta find what fits you
@grand ivy as i said, theyre only temporary until i get my new build. kinda cant just go out and get refunds where i live with the virus lmao
also, im really not picky about "taste", i just know jack about headphones
I agree with z3. General things to look out for: a good frequency range, low impedance (ohm) cinch (2.5mm or 3.5mm) over any usb bs connector
I also prefer steroe over this virtual 7.1 dolby stuff but thats all preference
200cad is some money why u want this only temporary and not find something good now
Also doesnt have to be a gaming headset since u have already a mic a normal audio headset is great too and they mostly dont look as ugly as gaming hardware usually does
Maybe gamimg headsets are more comfortable for long session
i recommend some Sony extra bass, they are supper comfy, and the frequency range they have is great
thanks for the info. obviously if i can find something good now i will settle on it but 100-200 isnt that much to spend on something i will use until winter semester imo. i need two sets anyways, the ones i get now will move to my other setup in a few months, but wont be used as often
Maybe get now a pair that u can use later outside or so
still 100 cad is overkill for a temp headset
i mean a 69 cad headphone can last long
i just saw the marshall major ii ive been using for 3 years now its just 69 cad
100-200 is my limit, a 50-80 would be sick. thats just how much i was willing to spend
i will look into some sony ones doe
top off the list just some sony extra bass, they are cheap and have really good freq range
Headset wise, if you're a fan of wireless, arctis 7 hands down.
I've tried a dozen or so headsets and nothing has matched the quality steelseries pumps out for wireless.
I haven't tried the wired Arctis Pro but I'm sure the quality is high and you can also buy a GameDAC later to upgrade the quality further.
What do I do if the card doesn't line up with the screwhole for the PCIe cover?
Is the clip down or up?
im not 100% but i think you push down on the clip to release, so you want to fully up when the card is installed
might be worth trying to reseat it to check that
It let me pull out the card, so I assume it's not fully in.
Should I not put the card into the 2nd slot either since I assume it's of a lower bandwidth?
check mobo manual
whats the board model?
manual recommends the PCIEX16_1 slot for a single card build
which is the stop slot
So when installing the card, how hard do I push down into the slot?
til its fully seated?\
Am I going to hear a click or what?
probably makes a satisfying click sound or feeling as the release mechanism flips to locked
like your ram
sometimes it takes less force to grab that clip and move it up as you push down on the card, than just pushing down alone
I pushed it in and heard a click, but the clip didn't push up, but it let me push it up with my finger.
My only problem now is the hole doesn't line up with the PCIe screw hole.
same as before?
One of my friends is suggesting I push the case forward until it lines up, but won't that create tension on the metal and bend it?
is the bottom of the card closer to the back of the card than the top (top as bottom as we can see in that pic)
@sour wing check out audiotechnica. They offer a lot of very good ones, I have a headset from them that’s pretty great
or is the entire card equally as far from the backplate
I'm confused by that statement.
is the bottom of the card closer to the back of the case than the top of the card is to the case
im asking if the card looks crooked or not
Mm, green
Just make sure its slotted in properly then you just line it up yourself
yeah id probably try pull the card to the slots with gentle force
just to help it get seated
I wish there were GPUs from companies like Gigabyte or EVGA with selective color
Also imo it might be better to leave the card out and have it be the last thing you connect after routing all the cables for the front panel and power supply
And of course, a 30% increase in total price for the white 
what i was asking before is the graphics card sitting parallel to the motherboard
I pushed the case forward and screwed it in, this is how it looks:
looks right
Okay, yeah now you can just screw in the second one to the top
did it feel like it popped into place or did you just pull until it made it all the way?
Alright, just double check that the connector is slotted into the slot correctly
My friend suggested I plug in the PSU and do a post test first.
Oh well I would have done that before installing it in the case
Which cables do I need plugged it for the test?
Just install every thing at this point
But I suppose for the minimum, the 24 pin ATX cable for the motherboard, 8 pin EPS for the CPU, PCI-E power connectors for the graphics card
EPS?
Presumably the motherboard might have an extra 4 pin for the cpu, but that isn't needed
Yeah should be labeled that way on the psu cable
Should I take out the two drive bays?
Huh it only has a single 8 pin
Well that's fine then
What to install the drives?
If you're just test booting you don't need any drives installed
I only have one 2.5 inch SSD.
I see 24 pin for the motherboard, but where's this 8 pin?
Oh something I learned about old drives that had windows on it
Its at the top left of the motherboard
It'll be snug against the I/O armor
What is this stuff over the cables?
Is there a click when cables plug in?
Not really, typically there's a clip that latches on and secures it in place though
As long as it looks right, you should be able to gently tug on it to make sure its secure
I want to use the Strimer plus, but it seems like a very tight bend to get it plugged in.
sometimes when installing a GPU, the cases neighboring PCI filler brackets crowd out the GPU's bracket to the case.
ive even had them interfere with plugging in HDMI/DP cables.
https://discordapp.com/channels/408196129470152705/584808651164745809/723596711326646272
you can probably just remove the bracket above the GPUs mounting bracket, the filler brackets dont serve much of a purpose.
the way it is now looks like it will introduce sag into the gpu
@torn ferry
So I need to correct this now?
preferably, its not difficult.
Do I need to unscrew it first?
i would assume, so you can move the GPU's bracket up to the holes
So what am I doing? Just removing another one of the covers?
So the case needs to be back on its side?
Whichever seems easiest to you
ive done this while the case is standing, just apply a bit of upward pressure on the gpu just to support it.
if you're worried about it you can put the case on the side
So unscrew both screws, then what?
you see the squareish gaps on the gpu bracket?
screw holes should line up with them
You mean where the display ports are?
line up the squareish bit on the circle, then put thumbscrew in.
you sure about that?
I have two screws already in though.
it looks like its screwed in lower than it should be.
whats in those slots? it looks like nothing.
it doesnt really look like the square slots are meant for the screws
That circle you see is one of the upper slot covers.
i mean look at the covers, even they have the slots that the screws dont go into
Or should I just do this anti-sag thing that is in the manual for the case:
you probably dont need the anti sag bracket.
that is optional if the back of the card is sagging, a small sag wont hurt
the reason the screw holes are open, is so you can loosen or adjust the card if its not fitting perfectly.
its purpose is to support, not retain.
I kind of want to get a test boot done first.
I want to make sure my components are working before I go further with case fans and RGB stuff.
alright.
Next is PSU and cables.
And I see the insulation pads anti-vibration pads.
Do I plug in the cables into the PSU first before putting it in?
yes, it will give you an idea of how you want to route them through the back panel.
Do I take off the rectangle cover that is covering the grommets?
no idea without seeing.
the thing in the center of the image?
if you can remove it, you can probably put it back later after you install the PSU.
doesnt look too beat up
looks fine, but it looks like you're using the wrong sized screwdriver
yeah not all phillips are the same
I can't get it out for some reason.
is it still firmly anchored?
I undid the 4 screws.
No, it says it can be removed in the manual.
hmmm
after you undid the screws, are you able to pull it torwards yourself at the top?
Am I missing something?
to remove the giant rectangle in the middle?
yeah, 2 screws.
2 screws at the top?
Let me try those then.
Yea, I'm stupid, sorry.😝
It worked.
Can I remove the drive bays?
if you think you wont need them
personally, i have like 6 drives, 5 of which were not initially built into the pc.
that rectanglely thing you removed is the mounting points for SSDs it seems
so, you only need the drive bays for things that are 5.25" drives or smaller.
if they come out in sections, i would leave some just in case.
I took out both drive bays since I predict messy cable management.
I am ready to try installing the PSU. I assume the fan has to face the back of the case?
Point the fan to whatever direction has the most potential airflow
Uh yes it has to face outwards to vent
PSUs can be mounted many ways
It depends on the case
It pulls air in through the fan and blows it out the back
And with this case with how its designed there's only one way
Ill take your word for it
Is this the 8 pin EPS?
I got the 24 pin and 8 pin EPS in the PSU, what are the other ones I need?
PCI-E
They will be 6+2 pins
So your graphics card uses an 8 and a 6 pin, so you'll have a 2 pin hanging off you'll want to tie that down. Cause most likely you wouldn't like the look of it 
Guarantee you wont
My card took two 8 pins
And i have 2 2s dangling
Looks horrible
Um that's all you need for the build pretty much, as well as the front panel stuff
How many cable combs should I use?
I don't know what that is
I feel like I should have plugged in the ARGB splitter first before the graphics card.
Yeah I suggested taking the card out to do everything else first
It gets in the way more than you would think
Can I still plug it in with the card or should I take it out?
I would take it out just so you can do everything else like I said
For the front panel? Sure get the out of the way as soon as possible
They take some precision in my experience 
I haven't bothered installing front panel audio since I don't use it personally, tends to be inferior to the motherboard soundcard anyway
Yeah look at the motherboard manual for installing that
184 questions have been posted today in this channel. That is 230% more than the average per day
Its slightly different for each motherboard
@el demonio let me handle this: RTFM
Though some motherboards are nice and have the instructions printed or color coded where the headers are
Is it the system panel connector?
The header for the front panel is in the bottom right somewhere
Okay is the bottom right exactly
Those are the pins for the front panel
There seems to be more male pins than female pins on the cable.
simply means the case probably does not take advantage of certain features.
Some cases dont have a dedicated reset button, and some dont have HDD or power LEDs
The connectors seem to have all of those things mentioned though
I'm confused about how and where each one connects.
RTFM
So the text printed underneath guides where you need to plug it in
this is one where you MUST use the manual
But yeah look at the manual its clearer
General rule of thumb
If you need to plug something in, and dont know where it goes
From the looks of it the power switch is the 3rd and 4th pins on the top left, and the ones next to them are the power LEDs + then -
RTFM
Do I plug it horizontally or vertically?
How is the ASUS TUF B450-PLUS GAMING
I assume vertically but can be different with any mobo
This is too much for my brain.
did your motherboard come with the decoder block?
What's a decoder block?
it's horizontally. thanks ulfsaar
its like an adapter that labels all the inputs
Dont say i dont take my own advice, RTFM
totally unneccisary though.
I am reading the manual, but I'm too stupid to understand it.
what ulfsaar showed above
And align all plugs + and - to where its shown
So starting off bottom left corner
@stark plover I think Buildzoid said it best, MSI has the best B450 boards at least VRM wise
I plugged HDD LED horizontally.
Is the + side on the left?
No.
flip it over then.
Is it OK that the lettering isn't visible on it now?
Thats fine
totally fine
As long as its plugged in correctly
Next is Power SW.
Row 1, pin 3 and 4
Horizontally so it is plugged in both pwrbtn and gnd?
Yup
yep
Everything is horizontal except for the last pins on the right
Why is there two PLED sections?
I plugged the LEDs in the right most section.
And reset sw needs to be in both RSTCON# and NC?
Yes.
This is more suited for the hands of ants than a human.
all to well
makes you wish that they would just standardize it
so it would be the equivalent of an 8 pin cable or whatever
I wish it'd be all one block maybe.
Or start selling cases with motherboards and all their cables preinstalled.
Can I fix the power and reset button things if it's wrong later on?
yeah, i've fucked em up before tbh and the only think that happened was nothing happened.
had a mate balls it up a few years ago
What should I plug next? Front USBs?
it was funny as fuck
probably
at your skill level, its probably easier to just grab the nearest loose cable and figure out where it goes
takes a lot of the stress out of worrying about cable management
I just hope I'm routing these properly.
you are
The front panel buttons are going through the right grommets at the bottom.
as long as it looks presentable in the front, the back can be your dirty little secret 😉
HD Audio is next I guess.
Before I go further, is this not ready for side fan mounting yet, do I need to remove that plate on the side?
im not sure on specific order, but you will need to remove that plate
otherwise you will have sweet fuck all airflow
even if you can mount anything to it
Manual confusing.
I tried that but nothing moves.
i watched a few videos, and they all basically just say the same thing
push the plate out from the opposite side its mounted on
sounds like a USB 3
I cannot remember where I bought my case from, and newegg only shows me orders back to 2010
i may have actually bought it in a store :o
Does it go into the 3.1 Gen 1 header?
All it says is 3.0 on it, but there isn't just 3.0 on the board.
Yeah don't worry about that, its all the same. Technically its more nuanced than that, but its a bit confusing to explain
If its 3.0 that means its 5gb/s
yeah if it fits its probably ok
Oh sorry I just realized
at least for USB
3.1 Gen 1 is the same as 3.0
They fucked with the naming as they revised it so it got confusing
Its also known as 3.2 Gen 1
Then what is Gen 2?
Gen 2 is 10gb/s
Its all backwards compatible anyway, but its based on speed. There's 3.2 Gen 2x1 and 3.2 Gen 2x2
But x2 only applies to Type C
Type C is that small oval port, they use it for phone charging now
Yeah it basically became a shit show when they started retroactively renaming things
3.0 eventually became 3.2 Gen 1
So I connect the 3.0 to 3.1 Gen 2?
What kind of header is on the motherboard?
3.1g1 and 3.1g2
Yes.
So put it in the Gen 2?
look at the end of the cable
and you should be able to tell which one it fits in
from the 2 images i just posted
is it a 20-1, or a weird I shaped thing?
the large headers are different enough that if it fits its probably ok
Two rows of pins with 1 missing on a row.
thats a 20-1
because its 20 pins, except its missing 1
hence, 20-1
which means you plug it in to the header identified in the bottom picture
This one is unlabeled.
thats a 3.1g2
that looks like the gen2
top picture
I think I got it right:
looks right to me
I have another 3.0 cable, but there's no more headers for it.
i wouldnt worry about it to much
pco11 xl
O11 Dynamic XL.
tbh you could have livestreamed it
I don't have a camera to livestream.
Unless I strap my phone to my forehead and do it that way.
i would still watch
Next I guess is PSU installation.
I plugged in all necessary cables first and will now install it. I assume fan must face downward?
if you put it in the case and push it up to the mounting bracket, you should see where all the screw holes line up
someone said earlier that the O11 can only be mounted one way
Just don't place the fan against the wall of the case
Like this?
i hope
These screws for PSU?
Possibly, is the tip flat?
i found a video of shawn reading the manual
Pfft
These the right screw holes? I was doing the small ones at first but then corrected.
if it secures the psu to the case, then i don't think it matters
i stand by the video
you must be getting close though?
to finishing
I still have 6 fans left to mount, but right now I want to get a test boot done.
But I'm having a difficult time securing the 24 pin cable in both the motherboard and power supply.
Uh try swapping the ends maybe?
or remove the psu for better access
Yeah generally best practice to plug in the cables outside the case, though with how that case is designed it should be easy enough regardless
Do cables ever lock in?
On the motherboard there's a lip for the cable to latch onto
So make sure the end of the cable you're using has that latch I guess
I still feel like I shouldn't be able to tug out the cables easily?
yes
That's correct, if its falling out from a tug its not secured properly
mobo cables typically take a fair bit of force
takes more force than the rest of the cables imo
just make sure the female matches the male.
Is this not all the way in?
nope
the latch is definitely not set.
keep pushing, and support the edge of the board
And how come one cable is missing? Is that normal?
using your hand
was removed from the ATX specification, its empty because its no longer used.
It won't go in.
yeah it can be a bugger
sometimes it helps to push on the top of the tab
Do I need a lot of force?
and push the whole connecter down into the b oard
Check if it’s the correct way
mine was pretty difficult to install and remove
i think its the hardest cable i ever have to push in ever tbh
And yeah, push that thing as hard as you can Kek
hardest cable ive ever had to remove as well
Are you sure the motherboard won't break before it goes in?
support the board
Once a click or an obvious tick feel happens, it’s on
like i said, use your other hand to support the board
i broke my board the first time i got it
Fingers under board, thumbs pressing down perhaps
Hm
i was scrapping a pc once and i think it took me like half an hour to persuade the 24 pin off the mobo
At least I won’t have to worry about pulling cables off for a next upgrade haha
And it seems the EPS cable is very difficult to plug in after the top radiator has been mounted.
i was definitely using the clip correctly.
yeah, PCs may be like legos, but they're also a damn dexterity puzzle.
can always just quickly remove the radiator
Eh. I guess I have some grip strength. But wiggle strats always works wonders.
:(((
ive got decent grip strength, but with 8 year old plastic, you'd think they weld together sometimes.
Do I have to take the radiator off now?
if you cant manage the EPS cable, yes.
Don’t see a reason to unless it’s obviously impossible to do anything without removing it first
I still cannot get the 24 pin in.
Wonder if I should still stick with a DRP4 next build, or use AIO to make cooling more efficient, with a nice look inside a dark PC case
can you persuade the clip over the latch?
either remove the cable (if you can) and check for any blockages or something
or get something to give yourself a better grip on the cable.
I'm just getting frustrated that the cables won't stay in.
some of the cables you gotta push pretty hard
But I'm scared I'll break something.
Just push it in hard
i dont think ive ever encountered a cable thats more of a pain in the ass than 24-pins
I am losing my sanity.
take break
I want to get the post test done.
then drink a strength potion and git on with it.
if you have trouble with it even still, check to see if pinching the clip makes it easier
I am pinching the clip.
In what way is it stopped from going in?
does it even stay in?
It stays in unless I tug on it.
Should I screw in the PSU first before doing a test boot?
cant hurt, its the least likely thing to need to come out
Do I need a monitor for the test boot?
ah, yeah most pcs wont POST without a monitor/keyboard
Nothing happened when I turned on the computer.
switch on back of psu is on?
front panel switch connected to correct pin on mobo?
I believe so.
24pin power connector fully inserted?
I don't think so. I've been trying to get it fully in.
idk, probably not guaranteed to work unless you plug it in
I'm just scared to apply more force.
With my mobo
it might help if you undo the motherboard screws so you can lify it up a bit and get a finger under there to support it
*lift
ATX bridging plug?
ATX bridging plugs allow the PSU to run without needing to be plugged into a motherboard
its highly unlikely you were given, or need one.
however, he's probably asking to see if you can fit it into a bridging plug to see if there is anything wrong with the connector itself.
I don't have a bridging plug.
What does it mean if only the RGB light on the rear I/O turns on?
could mean anything
i mean, my mobo came with a bridging plug, and its a strix z370, so i dont see why his wouldnt have
if nothing else, its a good way to see what is and isnt working
So have you got it working?
No.
So you left off on a half assed ATX plug installation?
I've still been working on trying to get it plugged in all the way.
Its no big deal, just push it in there
It won't break anything, computer hardware is tougher than you think it is
The only thing that's really remotely fragile is cpu socket pins/pins on the cpu
^ and even then they’re pretty tough
I would say socket pins are probably more likely to be hard to save compared to PGA pins
I could do everything to my motherboard and it’d never break, cause ASUS is TUF 😎
I've had trouble getting the ATX 24 pin in before
Try holding the latch up so it isn't snagging anything, and push it in
My fingers hurt so much from holding the latch up to try and get it in all the way.
just puuush
I cut my knuckles on heatsink fins struggling to get the EPS connector in, NEVER GIVE UP 
Also I know it isn't the time, but that black cable I don't know what its from; but it could be routed much cleaner.
mayo scented mobo
This is the most correct way to apply
unless your mayo floods your entire mobo you're doing it wrong
marshmallow fluff for maximum cooling potential
removing the cpu takes the whole board with it.
Lemme go cook some nice pancakes with my 7700K
Can you make me some Bacon??
I got this pancake from a restaurant on the highway, it had strawberries, blueberries, bananas, whipped cream, and holy fuck it was the most amazing thing I’ve had in my entire lifetime
something tells me a certain 24 pin has been plugged in.
I think.
You think?
I don't know what I did.
Shawn were you the person with the Alienware PC?
Ahh
The Warden is the one with the gayliens
Hah
Why won't any peripherals I plug in work?
Strange, I was sure he still had the name “The Warden”
I have not been here in a while, so I am not sure the doings of what has been happening within the server for the last few months. Other then coming to the PC chat. And I have no idea, Shawn.
list the peripherals
So either the 24 pin connector did plug in or it didn’t
But it’d be strange, 24 pin is the whole power for motherboard yeah?
Between you, Clay and Muppy. You guys have some adorable PfPs xD
senko best grill
Still need to watch that anime...
read the manga
I plugged in a mouse but it won't respond or do anything.
take picture of screen
Like, when I turn it on?
the mouse aint gonna do any led shit until the os hits, usually
also, did you add the storage?
Not yet.
turn off the pc, turn it back on, and start spamming the F2 key
Did you plug in a monitor?
It is plugged in.
take a picture of where its plugged in
It turns on when the system does, but then goes to sleep with the white light on the power breathing on and off.
yeah, attempt to enter the bios
if you cant, we know something isnt right.
nothing seems incorrect at the moment
The only thing that happens when I turn the system on is that the monitor screen says "Entering Power Save Mode", then shuts off.
If the fans are spinning on the GPU, I assume yes?
wait, is that displayport or hdmi?
I can look for one, but what significance does it have on the problem?
sometimes displayport at this stage can be a nusance, i dont know if its a problem anymore though
but, before bothering with that, at LEAST attempt to get into the BIOs
How do I try again on it?
turn off PC
turn on PC, Immediatelly start spamming F2 for a good 30 seconds.
Hold power button?
to turn off yes
This time nothing came on screen from HDMI.
definitely not the mobo, it wont do anything with a GPU plugged in.
Is this a normal problem or did I miss something very obvious?
yeah, this happens occasionally.
How come keyboard and mouse LEDs work but not the actual functionality?
they have power, but nothing is using them
And two orange LEDs are on my motherboard too.
not that im thinking it is capable, but does it make any beeps when you turn it on?
I didn't hear anything at all, no.
try doing ctrl+alt+delete then power cycle.
Power cycle?
turn off, turn on.
Now nothing shows up on screen anymore.



