#pc-build-help-and-tech-talk
1 messages · Page 34 of 1
I barely see the diff in 2k/4k. There is one, but not worth it for the performance you need.
4k more apparent / useful for 32" and up screens
below that, a 1440p is very sharp for almost all
4k is a main selling point for TV's
2K 240hz monitor
240 frames - definitely need the 2080 ti haha
The human eye can’t see above 23 FPS
Lmao
this is a false fact
I’m not that dumb
bro if you a person saw 100FPS literally the wind blowing in your face would blind you temporarely
oh good
checkmate
"HOW CAN MIRRORS BE REAL IF OUR EYES AREN'T REAL"
I can easily see difference between 30 to 60 FPS
well
Look at the test monitor 60hz vs 240hz
I mean, I prefer getting closer to 100
actually, I don't give a shit about frames
if a game can be locked to 30 imma do it, because uncapped 45FPS can make my mouse laggy
I'm gunna get a 144hz monitor anyway
oh 144 is VERY nice my man
as long as it's freesync
trust me
remember the old times
I’m also getting 144
i used to have a CRT up until 2015
oh wow
if your PC can keep a near constant, say 120 frames per second fed to an IPS/VA monitor with backlight strobe / black frame insertion - the experience is fantastic
I don’t there’s that much difference in price with 100 to 144
no shit
I had a CRT back in 2008
so surreal
i had a CRT from 2000 to 2015
@hexed horizon weren't you looking for a 1080p 144Hz 24" monitor too?
the other day
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07FDDR4MN?ascsubtag=7bf39913-dcad-4d1a-9f4d-18fbac4dcf3d&linkCode=g12&tag=ignonelinkca-20&th=1 Anyone found a better one?With both 2k and high hz with 1ms
i will buy one once GTFO is released
tho i'm not planning or replacing until this shit breaks
What the hell is that price
That's CAD
What is 790 Canada dollars to USD
it's like 650 iirc
62 donuts
lmao imagine being 2k and getting a lawsuit
XD
@chrome chasm that one is a TN-panel, if you don't mind
@chrome chasm there are 27" monitors out there with IPS panels, 1440p, 144/165Hz for slightly more - not sure of the model numbers
Viewsonic too used to sell these - then probably newer models emerged
I have been quite behind the latest models
I gotta stop looking at this. make me wanna spend more money XD
haha yeah
See ya lol
Take care
Ayy received the case
Small steps
I did NOT think the side panel was actually glass but holy shit it's gorgeous
I thought it'd be plastic stuff
👌
neat
probs gonna get the PSU, Motherboard and CPU Cooler next
👍
God damn is it good looking
@late sorrel coolermaster h500
atx
wired it up with my old components (ew), the airflow is great and i love the look
nom
mine's 530 lul
if I get my entire build with everything except the gpu, and then switch later on, would i need to reinstall windows for a clean install?
old is gtx 1060
new is rx 5700 xt
Thinking about getting an NZHT H500 for my next build
ah yes
it was the H510, ofc
the newest one
don't know the difference between them though, but I havn't done any research
th H510 Elite is sweet as well, a bit on the expensive side though
If I ever switch case, I'm probably switching to another server tower that I convert.
😅
I have some builds I want to do,
I'd like to build a Louqe Ghost S1 as well, it's a nice chassi.
bad
Should have gotten 5700 XT smh lol but really, that’s pretty great to hear!
Kek
wireless gaming mouse vs wired
worth getting a wireless?
go!
Hamborgor 🍔
@dense wasp if it must be wireless, it should be a Logitech Gaming one haha
Their Lightspeed tech is so much better than the rest
And their hyper low energy but high performance HERO sensor too
I have been using wireless mouse, and I have been really, really content with it. It gives you a lot more wiggle room, the cable does not get in the way or restrict the movement I'm trying to do with my wrist, and if I have to reposition my mouse suddenly while in game, it has no restriction or wire weighting it down. but to be fair, im using a standard office mouse for gaming lmao
standard wireless Logitech using their dongle?
I use hama sir
oh I didn't know they made mice
thought it was more focused on audiovisual and stage equipment
It's a really great mouse
I mean I guess yes. It's bigger than most small mouses, but not proper mouse sized
so i guess medium?
it fits into my hands perfectly thou
never had any wrist pain or anything like that
standard wireless is ok for casual non-FPS gaming
I used to have a Gigabyte ECO xxxx wireless mouse
It's good for FPS as well tbh.
biggest drawback of standard office wireless for most non-pro gamers is the input latency and refresh rate
switch to a wired gaming mouse at > 500MHz or similar Logitech Lightspeed wireless
there is a difference, albeit rather pricy
however, of course, the difference is more apparent if our PC can hit 60fps consistently - at an average closer to 30 fps, it's harder to "feel" the difference
I've never used a wireless one, figured I should know what people are using, and get one
the logitech ones seem good
oh there is an EXCELLENT gaming mouse dedicated channel we all should see
RocketJumpNinja
covers almost EVERYTHING one would want to know
If you going wireless, I recommend anything that come with a double battery, soo you can easily switch on the fly when one goes down.
oh the Logitech latest ones have in-built Li-Ion packs
with a charging cum signal cable
I think the current goal is as lightweight as possible
especially important for FPS players
@dense wasp
Logitech has this guy as part of their testing team too
Wow this guy has the most mouse
oooh yeah
blew a WHOLE LOT of money on mouse
could probably write them all off as "business expenses" maybe?
haha
Making money off Youtube channel as a side business
It's impressive that the gaming peripheral companies like Logitech include his feedback into their design process, alongside a whole lot of pro gamers of course
He's a pretty excellent twitch FPS gamer - Quake series
his website
Finalmouse sold out
680$ CAD for that mouse due to sold out XD
68 USD is ok I suppose for a limited production mouse
very light
Another cheaper mass manufactured alternative is the Cooler Master MM710
The one I got is fine. it is a bit big for my hands but i'm not an heavy fps competitive player.
can't get them here though
we're stuck with the usual brands
at least Logitech sells at a reasonable "conversion" compared to USD pricing
Yup saw it, The mouse and keyboard from CM might be my next purchase if those I have stop functioning.
due to socioeconomic factors, the buying power here is way much less
I guess you will pay a lot for shipping if you purchase from USA?
so much less so that even a Logitech G304 is viewed as an "ultra" luxurious high end product
oh they sell locally here too
just that the median wage earner here earns like 15k USD annually
for most commonly available PC hardware, it's usually the same between buying locally, or buying from Amazon USA and shipping it here
for some PC hardware, it can be cheaper to purchase from Amazon USA and ship it here - ESPECIALLY if there are discounts or deals
usually smaller lighter items like SSDs, etc.
Do they sometime offer free shipping? And I guess price isn't adapted with regional pricing?
free shipping from Amazon or Newegg is usually limited to the states unfortunately.
For PC Hardware, no special regional pricing, unlike Steam games
Usually the factor I use is USD conversion rate + 10% sales tax + 10% again
that 10% to cover the relative inefficiencies of having so many middlemen in our market distribution here - could be higher though
kind of ODD that the origin countries of products shipped to the US are much nearer to us
oh well, logistics inefficiencies here too
oh at least we do get Intel chips for slightly cheaper (but why not AMD???) than the states
being that these chips were historically packaged here
well either here or in Vietnam, Costa Rica, etc
@fiery nacelle I used a wired g pro, I have smaller hands, so I like it.
im just asking if anyone knows when early access launches
No dates.
It's planned to come out in 2019, as the Steam store page indicates.
But I'm pretty sure that will change.
I'm pretty sure no one cares but I thought I'd share I'm getting this case in 2 weeks 🙂 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JD431D5/?coliid=I3EKZKINTJFFAG&colid=2861YFVCCGHB&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
ooo that’s pretty nice
Neat!
A glass top case would terrify me. My cats use my case as a spring board on occasion.
They don't really make glass ones, more likely it's hard plastic or acrylic
Anyone know anything about audio scrubbing? My friend has a question and I am not qualified to answer because I have no clue
mine is 100% tempered glass, and that other thermaltake is tempered glass as well.
this is mine https://www.amazon.ca/Thermaltake-CA-1I7-00F1WN-01-Tempered-Vertical-Computer/dp/B074ZN21M8/ref=sr_1_2?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiZvvjZiY5QIVjLbICh1gQArZEAAYASAAEgJ33PD_BwE&hvadid=284063380699&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000014&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14415166051774812173&hvtargid=kwd-372023523351&hydadcr=24917_10283276&keywords=thermaltake+view+71+tg+rgb&qid=1570933712&sr=8-2
it's a beast
I guess I can post a pic in the memes section, one min
link to my complete workstation build in pc part picker https://pcpartpicker.com/b/cKV6Mp
Oh yeah I chose it cause I wanna show off the inside haha
that's what it's good for :p
is one gram of thermal paste enough for one application on a ryzen 3700x?
i'm pretty sure the CPU model doesn't have anything to do with it
idunno, the size of a pea they say
is enough? i guess
probs
It's for threadripper you might just need to use more of that gram, to cover a larger area, if I remember correctly.
I'm starting to go crazy over just a PSU issue
does the corsair rmx 650W Gold have the additional 4pin 12v connector or not?
i feel like all the answers im finding are vague 👀
that's a 4+4 right? it should fit into the CPU's power slot + the additional 4 pin 12v connector?
CPU power slot is an 8 pin, or 4 pin?
@north bronze https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWu2tcm4wL8
@sick reef apparently 4+4
4+4 is pretty standard.
so that psu should be good right?
I do not know, if you have an extra 4 pin on the MB, then I dunno with the PSU.
So you do not have more than one CPU connector on that PSU?
eh decided to go for a seasonic gx 650w
80+ gold rating and it has the additional connectors
nice
fully modular
it's great yeah
👌
How exactly do I have to find a pre-overclocked CPU?
Pre-tested?
No like
I remember that someone said you could order a CPU that has already been over clocked
So I don't have to do the OC myself
Oh yeah they pre test it to rate the max / typical overclock
w0t
Yeah, siliconlottery buys CPU's, delids them, then benchmarks them for what they are capable of, then resells them.
Meaning, you'd know how much it could overclock.
But since overclocking is done by the MB with the CPU, you'd have to buy a combo that isn't reset, or have someone do it for you for money
Hey ive been wondering if you have any idea like really any idea what type of computer can run this because of the testing that is coming and my gaming laptop is broken
I do usually run to LowSpecGamer for help but this is just going to be alpha testing so ...
basicly my current laptop is somewhere around stone age i mean it can run TF2 pretty well but
Check your specs on userbenchmarks.com
And we'll let you know
All tho the game will run on toasters
fokin hell man i have 940mx which is basicly 200% worse than gtx 660
940mx?
Oof
CPU ?
nah laptop gpu
7200u
i5 ?
yep dual core
Hmm.
not sure i wouldnt really try dx12 on this gpu
Could possibly run the game.
We'll see.
Well, GTFO should be more CPU heavy game, maybe not actually.
well everything is left to luck i guess
i will get a new gaming laptop but that will probably take some time and im worried that the testing phase will be over by then
So
A friend of mine is trying to connect a USB WiFi adapter
He said something about needing to download something
Right. Cuz your name means something in Hungarian so I wanted to know.
it means sausage
Anyways, uhh... gaming laptops? Yeah, if you move a lot
But honestly I wouldn't recommend a designated gaming laptop
I mean, with desktops you are always better.
Buys laptop 2 years later can heat marshmallows with it
i know but subjectively i like laptops more and i would have to buy a monitor
and keyboard as im thinking about it not a bad idea
Yes, technically you would get 6 more inch on your screen that way
Well, I don't know how large the laptop screens are, especially for a gaming laptop
15´6
Probably like 15"
Mhm
Well, you decide.
I used to play on a laptop for a bit
I mean I have an older monitor that's 19", and it's honestly nice. I used a 24" for a bit, not sure I probably would get used to it, but I gave it to my bro, because of another reason.
well before i bought the gaming laptop i did my research so it wouldnt overheat however
it arrived with a faulty gpu ...
no ...
What
they denied it
Why not?
Big F
Where'd you buy it
i noticed it about 1 month in because i thought it was normal to shut of games in the middle of playing it the first hour
and then needing to restart it to work properly again
also it disconected my gpu when that happened
and i couldnt update my drivers ...
idk money things i would say
how much was it?
they arent really big on refunding this type of stuff it was 1050e
in €
yep
but there is a law
that if they dont send a letter in 30 days about this
they will have to refund
i did but they just reseted the software to factory and its done
What? That's all?
they sayed nothing was wrong with it but many people i asked told me it was actually faulty
well if i want more info i would have to get the laptop back
Where is it?
its in the shop for about a month now in 2 days they will have to refund it
i know alredy got another one on the watch much cheaper
860e with only 8gb ram tho
but otherwise it should be the same
1060 8300-H
i5 8300-H
oh also on this laptop ive been having problems with discord that it will only transfer my voice for a limited time and then i have to rejoin the channel
Errrrr
Sounds like an issue with discord not the pc. If its working for even a little, it just sounds like a software thing
OH BOI
my laptop is back and the gpu is working perfectly fine
after only software reset ...
so they fucked it up so bad i didnt want to believe it was only software problem but it was, good
hopefully it's a permanent fix
Oh you got new internet huh
I have 80down 5 up
500/50 for me
I'm supposed to have 1000/1000. But even with the cable plug-in I don't reach it.
this is wired
https://www.speedtest.net/result/8677048309.png
that's literally like 15 times faster than mine
When fiber finally reach your door it will look similar.
I have a 100/100 line. Literally no real need to have more unless you do design work
Anyone have recommendations for a gaming mouse for someone with sweaty hands?
I can’t recommend a specific mouse, but I’ve found that a palm grip based mouse is much easier to use
I have cold and clammy hands myself, but I don’t have any issues as long as I can use my whole hand to hold/push down the mouse
which model do you have?
I personally have an M65 Pro, but I can’t tell you if it’s performance in regards to other mice
With the mice I have around me at the moment, I can tell you I find that as long as it fits my hand, I have no issues with it
also, the M65 doesn’t have like rubber on it, so it is a bit slippy
also, I won’t reccomend it because it’s too small for my hands and I find myself gripping it harder which does tire it out
hmm, thanks.
I can tell you what to look for, just don’t have it myself 
I used to have roccat tyon, is very nice but idk about sweat hand
Might work for you though
haha i have a roccat kone and hate it
it's also double clicking when I single click (randomly) which is annoying as hell
Oof
ono
I never had that problem myself
Except the middle mouse button
Holy shit it was annoying
I'm sure they are good mice, just a bad experience for me, so would rather find a diff brand.
It was a different mice though I believe
I've never had an issue with mice with a sweatier hand, my issues are more of gripping the mouse and not being too small to get my whole hand around it
that's my last 2c
Corsair probably has good mice
Corsair has a good manufactoring stuff in my opinion
OH THAT
Corsair is best for peripahekn however it spell
I've got some friends who have corsair keyboards/mice and they've not had any issues
I bought a K55 and the rgb has stopped working
L
but then again, I've not like unplugged it and or fac resetted it
mouse is still going great though
just wish I didn't grip it so hard
also I've become reliant on the sniper button on the side
I personally wish it had a free-wheel function on the scroll though
I came from a first gen MX Master, so it was very weird to get used to
I just use two buttons on mice
smh you don't use the forward/backward buttons??
Extra is mainly good for browsers
they are really useful if you know how to use them
for switching weapons and stuff
you gotta learn it though
which is a pain
I use 123 for switching weapons
I find that taking my hands off of the movement keys disrupted my gameplay
Ring and index finger does it well
I mean, it does kind of do
But mainly it’s a great weapon switch into
anyway I kinda wanna get a new mouse now
Imo
yee
I need new keyboard
And a mousepad with wrist rest
Headphone as well and a mic ;w;
Headphone I’m just gonna give up on fixing
Not as loud as it used to be
My keyboard is missing one key, which is fine
It’s not very important anyways
Oh yeah
The damn numpad is useless as well
And it’s one dirty as hell keyboard
Like
0 num doesn’t work
Decided to go with this guy, let's see how it handles.
https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/glorious-model-o-minus-matte-black
that looks really nice
do tell how it goes
I need to get a new one anyway, I can't be giving myself carpal tunnel // exhausting my hand from gripping so hard // it being too heavy
remind me in a week, will let you know
mouse with pockets for cookie crumbs? 🙃
No
But they do have what’s supposed a ‘water-proof’ keyboard or something
In general I mean like any food or drink gets spilled
oh god I should have removed the weights in this long ago holy shit
it's so much lighter
Lmao
That reminds me
It felt so weird using my brother’s girlfriend’s DPI mouse preferences and it was so damn weird trying to do anything
xd
And when my brother tried to play siege once on my.DPI he was like ‘why do you have it this much?’
Siege DPI is like
moooooood
Kind of wild
My mouse DPI is set to 1000 or 1500
Siege is at like
factory set dpi
And when I have to get my grip right
Oh boy
oh lmao I found why my keyboard had no lighting on
No download the keyboard menu setting or turned off the light?
My keyboard doesn’t have RGB, just white
Lol
I set it to a quite dim light, if I take a picture though, it looks like the sun
I turned the brightness down
Very nice
So I said I was gonna get a 5700
With checking the prices
5700 is 380
Pretty close to XT 410$
it's the best on the market for a 5700XT rn
Since you’ve said it’s been good in durability
Kek
it's 450
or 445
First, Radeon graphics cards don’t support real-time ray tracing like GeForce RTX 20-series GPUs offer—but in return, they offer you more traditional gaming performance for your money. The Nitro+ routinely outperforms the GeForce RTX 2060 by double-digit percentages. And while ray tracing is picking up steam and looks incredibly impressive in the right games, only a small handful of titles support the cutting-edge lighting technology at this point. Second, the Nitro+ is a big card, measuring a full foot long and a bit over two slots deep. That’s necessary for a card this powerful to run so cool and quiet though.
^ the "only drawbacks" paragraph
Well
It's still the "flagship" for the 5700XT's
I had the sapphire nitro pulse on list lmao
Maybe there wasn’t a nitro+ when I first added
440usd
Might be less
I checked amazon and uhhh
Fugawugaluga the egg online store thin
Newegg
I saw most fan cooled XT for 410-425$
egg store has it at $469.99
yeah it does
Fucking shit is way more expensive idfk why
that's like 30usd over MSRP
Despite those prices, both shopping carts on amazon and Newegg was at 1470-1480$ and Newegg was 3$ less pricy I think
Some parts I had to get as close as I could to what I had picked
Lowest price found on pcpartpicker for nitro+ was 467.XX$
And it was a Store I’ve not heard of
what's the name?
juasdhasdasdasd bullshit
Actual price is 449.99$
oh
Shipping it is 15$ plus
almost might as well go buy a 2070 at that pric
e
(then again, you are getting higher performance)
Amazon is basically Fuck having people pay for shipping!
5700 XT is getting better than 2070S
Checked userbenchmarks, it’s all there
I mean, sure
The games are having focus to one kind of company
But like
It wouldn’t matter
It’s still a fuckton better than a 1060 3GB lmao
true
tbh, I would reccomend getting a 2070 if you're spending the same as a 2070S
oh wait
wtf am I on
2070Supers are like 500+
I haven’t seen a 2070S priced at 450$ good AMD sir
And 2070 is like
Isn’t that more weaker
I'm gunna shut up now
Hah
what you've got right there is the best for what you're spending
I also never really understood how to get pre OC’d 3600 yet as well
lol I never did and couldn’t figure out overclocking
you can't get a cpu pre overclocked
your bios controls the speed of the chip usually
And I can have help with overclocking from you people 
Depends if your GPU is powerful
Just leave it at that if you got like
A 570 or 580 Kek
yeha
which I do
and any upgrades will be with a different CPU
Kinda hoping to get an x570 mobo next time around
for that spicy PCI-e 4
You might
or is it 5
anyway, I'd be getting the Nitro+ 5700XT so I don't think my 2600 would like me so much
anyway
I'll just make it a server
Yeah
Also most PSU will be able to connect to all of PC parts, correct?
I just wanna make sure
yeah
just make sure you get a high enough wattage and the right cables if you go modular
650 PSU on me Kek
And not modular, impossible to rid of cables unless cut
I have 650
G3 or G2
I’d just go for a new one tbh cause
The wiring job is so shit I don’t think it’s so good anymore :)
With a power supply, more is better. You dont want to be on the line or even close.
I know
It’s just that I thought I could probably reuse my G2-3 650W PSU
But I’ll probably need a new one since overclock probably takes more power and too close for me
Rather it’d be 300 or more
650 is plenty for most stuff these days, if you want to be safe you can go up to a 750. There’s nothing wrong with being “near the line” so long as you aren’t over it. Not to mention the G2 and G3 are outstanding PSUs.
The worst you’ll see is some lost efficiency because PSUs are most efficient at 50-70% usage
You could theoretically run a 3900X and 2080 ti system on a 650W unit, and the performance of both is mainly dictated by cooling. Spikes above the rated wattage are also acceptable to a certain degree.
I mean, that’s true
I might be fine but for me, I’d be anxious how it handles when it’s pretty below 300W of Max usage
After all, they aren’t too expensive
If you are even close you should just buy a higher psu. Also alot depends on the rating obviously, because a 650 plat or gold will do better then a 750 silver or bronze. But if you are close to max threshold, that can be really bad for your system. Even though most rating companies compensate by saying things require a little bit more for some headway.
Ok gais my build is ready for alpha 3900x 32gb ram 1080ti on MSI x570 with SSD's for both OS and Storage
Let the games begin!
It’s a gold GW+ 650W G3 PSU
And I’ll assume you have the 3900X and 32 GB for tech work
Yup, i am a systems engineer/animal rescue/ other
It is for virtualization of environments, video editing, and NVR for cameras for our animals
When it comes to principles behind power supply units, constantly utilizing more than 80% of total capacity with decrease capacity and age it early.
But that's also under the pretense "constantly".
actually i'm running a 3900x and 1080ti on 750 or 800 watt PSU gold if i remember right, but the 650 would drag with multiple hard drives and other peripherals which is why you want to get a bit higher
Going Bronze+ instead of Gold for the power supply may be the better option and price for the build
While it won't stay there ALL the time, it will handle the spiking better than and underpowered PSU if it is taking hits
Under-volting can cause just as much damage in some occasions than over-volting if the piece of equipment is going in and out (blue screens+)
If you did go 650 watt it would need to be a gold + rated and it may occasionally have issues with spiking literally blue moons at that
Best option is slightly oversized wattage and gold/more than gold rating
"Saving money" on PSU usually means that when anything bad happens, everything bad happens.
The lower the rating, the cheaper parts, the more variance in power output, as in it evens out spikes less.
All in all i think the i486 with the turbo button would be the best way to go. You could also go with the old school AMD processor that you could scratch the chip with a pencil led and essentially "overclock" it. Don't mind the boards you could solder if you had the utensils. Then all you would need is a Radeon Pro and 350w bronze. For days
I do have a PCIe Pentium 2 and/or 3. Unsure if those can be made to work, though.
i'm going for this PSU https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B077J9QTDR?tag=pcp09-21&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1
650W, fully modular, Gold
@plucky tangle would you please explain how it would be bad for the system? If a PSU is rated for 650W, even if your system peaks at 660W for a moment it’s not going to damage anything. And if it’s pulling below the rating... well, that’s what it’s rated for.
If you got a PSU and it's above it's max. consumption, then the PC shuts off 🙂
.. or a blue screen, depends.
PSUs have over current protection, yeah, but that’s designed for sustained power draw in most cases. I’m not saying you should build a system with an inadequate PSU, but 650 is technically adequate for most consumer applications. It’s only once you get into the really high end with lots of drives that it becomes and undeniable issue.
get higher power supply than calculated via summation of power consumption of each part to account for transient spikes in power demands
good PSUs should be able to sustain short term loads slightly higher than their rated wattage
OPP (Over Power Protection)
The over-power protection (OPP) kicks in when the power we pull from a PSU exceeds its maximum rated capacity. Usually, the manufacturers give a little room for overpowering the PSU, so the OPP threshold is set to 50 to 100W (in some cases even more) above the maximum rated wattage of the PSU. In single +12V rail PSUs, where OCP is meaningless in most cases, OPP takes over its role and shuts down the PSU in case the +12V rail is overloaded.
So if one has an GTX 1070 (typically rated at 150W TDP) paired with an i7 6700 (non-K) rated at 65W TDP, add-in an nvme SSD, budget motherboard, and 2 sticks of 8GB DDR4-2666...
We can get away with sticking in a PSU rated at say 300 watts?
Mhmm.
It might seem so
Adding up 150W + 65W would come up to 215W, far less than 300W, even adding in the SSD, mobo and RAM would not hit say 250W average power consumption
But look again at #media-and-memes
Yeah, i saw.
Kinda shocked me out off my own chair when I found out
Whilst the averaged power consumption of the individual card, yes kinda matches the TDP at 150W for the FE edition and 180W for the MSI Gaming X edition...
Take a look at those spikes
The GTX 1070 FE can spike above 200 watts, whilst the MSI Gaming X edition can touch 300W power spikes
far above the typical GTX 1070 TDP rating of 150 watts
Perhaps this explains why AIB partners put somewhat seemingly ridiculous amounts of PCI-E power supply inputs on their cards, up to 2x8 pin connectors (to supply 2 x 150W = 300W) for innocuous mid-ranged cards that are say advertised with TDPs of 200W which should on paper be satisfied by a single 8 pin PCI-e power connector + PCIe slot (150W + 75W = 225W)
So having issues with game / graphics / framerate delivery stability? crashes? glitches?
might want to look again
-
Give plenty of margins for power supply, especially when calculating in AIB-version of modern GPUs (i.e. factory overclocked)
-
Pay attention to the number of PCIe power connectors on the card - gives you an indication of how much power delivery the AIB vendor expects for rock solid stability / performance
-
Use separate PCIe power cables for each PCIe power connector, not two branches from the same cable - yes, most modern PSUs are single railed however it's not the rail overload that we are concerned about but rather the total current drawn by a single set of PCI-e power cables for TWO 8-pin connectors
.
Having said that, I think most enthusiast level PCs or less can be satisfactorily catered for by a good quality PSU of 600 watts rating.
probably even a system with a Ryzen 9 3900x and AIB RX 5700XT
Got any issue and ill have to write a bit separated, because it might shut down by the time im down writing lol
Was playing a game with a friend earlier, and suddenly the screens blinked and i couldnt get a picture back. Sound was kind of okay, music of the game was playing but nothing else. I could hear my friend on discord
Every time i tried to run a game, it would just blink and not work. PC stays turned on.
I swapped to another GPU, but the problem is the same, however i could run a game of CS bots when i switched to windowed mode. Other games would black screen in menus, and last crash happened on desktop. Any ideas?
Try uninstalling your drivers fully and reinstalling them.
When it comes to power supplies, I am not one for minimal margin. If you want the least amount of issues, you don't make them matching, or as close, especially to things like TDP that mean very little, unless you aim to run it all with stock settings, no turbo/boost, and aftermarket cooler.
TDP isn't wattage, and it only resembles the wattage in the very specific setup they made for the specific CPU.
And for the calculation of power draw, it is dependent on the settings of the CPU, the efficiency of the heat spreader, and the accumilative heat, and the effect that has on the CPU.
Also, if that is true about power pins, then it's 12V150W, which is ~12A per socket, and probably not fully unreasonable.
one step closer to getting my complete build
got the case, psu's coming, and i'll probs grab the ram next
that way I can buy everything except the GPU next month (no biggie, I'll use my 1060 3GB and wait for another month to get the 5700XT)
Make sure to check for deals on GPUs. They pop up a little bit everywhere sometimes.
Managed to buy a lot of my stuff pretty cheap due to it.
As in, deals on electronics, or just specific stores with very low prices.
Amazon had the 3900X for its msrp of 450E this morning. Had to go to work, but once I finished I was ready to jump on it since it mostly sells for 650-700E because of the shortage
aaaand it was gone
guess I'll stick to the 3700X I planned for 😦
Got my antec PSU for 240€ something, plat, 1300W, grossly oversized now that I'm not running dual OC 1080 Ti, but not expensive for such high capacity.
was gonna ask why you went overkill but then I saw dual 1080 TI
Have you looked at other amazon sites than amazon.fr and see if they ship to france?
Well, if I am to run my Dual 1080 Ti overclocked as much as I can, my 7940X at maybe 4.9GHz all cores, and with single core boost, and a few hard drives, and a bit more, it'd pull a lot.
I know I found my antec in some weird store in the UK that shipped here, as an example. Through pricerunner.
nice
Aight thinking about something, would this be a good idea?
- RX 5700XT -> RX 580
- Ryzen 7 3700X -> Ryzen 9 3900X/3950X
I'll be mainly using my build for game development on UE4 and some gaming too. Game dev mostly on the programming side (more cores, less of me eating junk food while watching VS2019 compile for ages)
depends if you’re rendering something GPU based vs cpu based
what do you do for your game dev stuff?
modeling?
I'm on the programming side
Anyone have a fix for my issue?
I recently bought an MSI RX 5700 XT ( Reference) and every now and then my monitor just goes black and comes back. However sometimes it just goes completely black and I'm forced to shutdown my PC via the button which I hate doing. I have found a slight fix in which I'm forced to drop the monitors frequency from 144Hz to 60Hz and so it's stable. This defeats the purpose of having this monitor though. I have tried re-installing drivers, even to the point of sacrifing one of my SSDs as a secondary boot to see if a fresh install of windows would help, but even so doing this I'm still getting the same issue.
how are the temps?
Try to restart your graphic drivers too.
T-junc seems to be on the cooler side during heavy gaming sessions
i heard the T-junc seems to be one of the issues
it's currently like this while play destiny 2
https://gyazo.com/8f3c8bc1162c319a9e0b73fd50dc7d31
that’s hot
im not sure what this error codes mean
https://gyazo.com/9340f0072721ac344e41003b56d8a6cb
https://gyazo.com/77316bdd10e9423731002d65675fb920
https://gyazo.com/cc33d1826210509d6d45d094eb008f34
the last issue was 3 days ago and that's when I dropped my monitor's frequency down to 60Hz
and it's been stable since
oh boy
let me tell you
ive been struggling all day and yesterday with my black screens of death
and that comes up with livekernel
You happen to run nvidia with recent drivers?
your graphics card is running too hard
temps are too high, and black/flashing screen typically means it is struggling to render the image
do you notice artifacting during gameplay as well? small white flickers?
85 degrees is the max temps for typical gpus
I'm gaming right now on Insurgency Sandstorm at full settings on an RTX 2060 and my temp is only 52 degrees
I mean, a reference MSI 5700XT doesn’t have a good cooler
and if the gpu is struggling, that makes sense why it can't run 144Hz stable
reference blower coolers are fine, if you have adequate case cooling
typically, yes
unless their case is choking airlfow, there is no reason why Destiny will put the temps at max
Well im having a similar problem
either the card is boosting for some reason, or it's faulty
For me the problem started out of nowhere, just sudden blackscreen
this reinstall i managed to run the game for 3-4 minutes before blackscreen again. Second time i didnt even reach the character select screen
is your cpu overclocked?
No overclockings, fresh windows install multiple times, tested several GPUs
different slots, RAM, HDD/SSD
what cpu?
4690k
if your cpu isn't stable, it'll crash or black screen
Its stable, i ran stress test on it and its fine
it's an old, discontinued processor
The weird thing is that the system ran fine for a little bit while a friend was over to look at the problem, and an AMD gpu with catalyst did seem to work fine
And reinstalling the GTX afterwards worked fine, but for minutes before it started BSOD again
4-5 minutes
a "stable" check for stress test is the average game session length.
If you game for several hours, test for several hours
at min, 10 min test with AIDA64
def sounds like your issue is CPU related.
your cpu is a ddr3 based desktop cpu, kinda obsolete
Hmm i was told to not run it for long as it was 100%
by who? haha, that's silly
Adequate case cooling for your average consumer PC 
you only stop a stress test after you reached your time mark, or unless the temps are getting too out of hand before it automatically shuts off
Its just really weird how it SOMETIMES works for a bit, and it seemed to work fine with furmark for a bit
furkark is a GPU stress test, not cpu
Yeah
Also, obselete meaning anything to someone without an option to make it obselete to themselves.

got a recommended CPU stresser for windows?
Does his?
thanks ill give it a go
If his motherboard uses DDR3, is DDR3 ram obsolete to him?
his mobo prob uses DDR3, but the tech is obsolete, no support
DDR4 time
compatibility issues arise under new software with DDR3
Does that matter in his situation, where he has the motherboard that uses DDR3?
Compatibility issues, yes, if that now is the case.
his proc is old, discontinued. No support, no future updates for new software or games etc.
and with him getting BSOD it is most likely a cpu issue
Unlikely to cause BSOD without component failure. Not fully impossible, but unlikely.
Speaking specifically DDR3.
his proc i old, hardware failure is possible
the cpu is struggling though
wherever is causing it to struggle
voltage, pins, bosst clocks etc
My 4790K struggled as well, before I switched out. But I dunno if that was a MB issue, or just that I used old AIO and old standard paste
and BSOD can be caused by less than component failure
as simple unstable clock can make it crash
windows 10 is a special boi
his is a 4690k
It can, but ram in and of itself is what I spoke of and specified.
and I've been speaking of his proc
the fact that he has DDR3 ram just proves it's age
The fact that it is a 4690 proves its age.
yes, that too
They are both from the same era, and it is why they are coupled.
I'm aware
My rig is mad old for sure, i was planning to upgrade for black friday
I'm simply pointing out that they are obsolete tech, and there are numerous software compatibility issues with those older proc systems
a while left for that though
just an unfortunate circumstance of age it seems
could even be a faulty PSU not giving enough stable power
Ive thought of that, but if theres a failure with the PSU, wouldnt the system shut down?
not necessarily
a pc can run with minimal power, when doing harder tasks it uses more, so when the psu can't give more than say, 250W when it's a 500W, then you can't push the system without causing crashes, shut-downs etc
depending on the power usage of your components, of course
that’s right, an i3 530
AMD 3820 APU
Obselete is a term that carries little value in this, is what I imply. It does not aid, constructively observe nor interject. It would be equal to saying "get a new one".
which is valid criticism when speaking of old tech that has no support
Does it help?
he can remain on that system if he chooses, just with little to no support so it is not advised
So yes, it helps
So many people in this discord are running on old tech without support
^
It helps you.
It is better to simply advice an upgrade, than to state obsoletion.
never said there wouldn't be problem son new systems
but, sure. Mine is older so i accept there will be more problems than what they will have
if somehting needs an upgrade, it is obsolete...
No.
you're taking offense to a term, idc really
How are we taking offense of the term?
obsolete definition is : no longer produced, out of date.
it fits fine,m regardless of your sensibilities towards it
enough
You stated its obsolete like 5 times or more already
because it is an apt term to use.
So if I use up my toothbrush, it's obsolete?
is there an issue with sing a correct term?
wow
if that model of toothbrush is no longer produced, then yes
learn the definition and come back I guess :/
no longer produced or used; out of date.
"the disposal of old and obsolete machinery"
The term isn't wrong, but it's useless in the situation. Non-descript.
obsolete does not mean unusable
different terms
it's not useless, it explains a problem with lack of support for a piece of tech that he is having issues with
Does that help him?
I mean if you want to have a discussion about terms like one of the mods would say take it to general chat
the best advice is to upgrade from the obsolete tech
not a big deal like you're getting all wokred up over
whatsoever
buh-bye
That's better. The advice obviously the same without stating the obvious, as it is simply clear from the age of it.
I really don't care how badly you want to argue semantics.
Only one.
it doesn't help
I don't know for sure if he was aware it was obsolete tech, until I told him.
Am I supposed to read his mind and know that he already understands it's no longer produced or supported?
Please guy chill down a little.
All of you.
I was done, having to keep clarifying myself to folks here
Something obsolete mean it no longer serve any purpose at all. If it can still serve a single task, it is not obsolete but limited in application. Now please calm down and change subject. thanks.
obsolete does NOT refer to it being usable or not
it refers to still being produced
Obsolete is right under his definition as well, but there is a term for obsoletion personally, as well.
GUYS
a fridge can be obsolete, no longer produced, being 30 years old, but still work
Im done.
drop the topic please
google it
Well in other news im 10 minutes into stress test and its working fine so far
good sign
I just cant wait to toggle GPUs and have the BSOD pop up right away
That does sound like a power draw issue.
Ill have to try another PSU tomorrow
Its just weird how switching out parts made it work fine for a bit, and another time it works for 3-4 minutes, and then sometimes it BSODs after a second or two
If the PSU is going bad, it could handle low-intensity workloads until it starts to run hot, as of which it would perform worse.
If it is getting really bad, it can be highly varying capabilities.
Makes sense, maybe theres a test that checks PSU for this
Aye
Toggled gpu in the tester, and it went BSOD
well, def a gpu issue then
actually, could still be power
what kind of psu is it? and how old?
Corsair RM650, 2015
Heh yeah. He was over earlier and we "fixed" it. So we didnt test it
lol, been there
give that a shot, see if that helps. If it does, you know what needs replacing
Ill ask if he can come over tomorrow again, if not ill have to pull one out of the other pc i have
aye
for now ill try to run my AMD card again and see how it runs, i guess
Thanks for helping Spartan, hopefully ill swap the PSU and thats it 😫
@Mayo I'm talking about nigh all games
Ah, okay
I meant like
I figured the 5700 XT could reach 100-150 due to it being a gpu supposedly for 1440p gaming
It does really good in most games, in some games it could be a 50 FPS difference
But it never drops below 60
hm well. Switched to my radeon card, and have had stuff running completely fine for the past 6 hours. I guess its some kind of weird Nvidia problem 😕
Will turn off and see how it runs later

The NoVideo 2080 Shitter is the best card for getting 999+ frames on Black Screen
👌
Its been working flawless, but now shutting down and installing windows updates, i have a feeling it will break down 
What AMD offers better? A slightly lower price? Ho yay it run hotter, take more power, less optimized game, can't reach 2080 power, has the same freaking problem with screen going black. Enough with the fan-boyish already. Both card are great for what they do for their range and costumer target.
Lol calm down
I’m not fanboying either
I totally would go for a 2070S but I don’t see the point in having ray tracing
I have a PC that isn’t even close to what the most recent releases have been
And hell I’d go for either one depending on perf and price
There a more civil way to discuss product, Like your last message could have been That happen with Nvidia card to get bad driver and get stuck on black screen
I was making a joke about the name
Nvidia 2080S is a good card for getting 999 FPS on black screen
NoVideo is the word I used to refer the recent problem
If I did have enough money for a pretty great build, and the price wouldn’t be a problem, I would go nVidia and either AMD or Intel depending on their percormance
Novideo percormance
exactly
Now don’t take it too hard, I understand that it’s pointless going for just one side because I know AMD offers great price on cards, but I also know NVidia offers good performance for quite a price
don’t forget that the 2060S and the 2070S are literally terrible for what you pay
Except ray trace
you pay 50-100USD just for RTX and other gimmicks
5700 XT is slightly better than 2070S by 2-4% which I know isn’t much, but proves their price on the performance
Yay it is bad, at this point you just go AMD or l060/1070
1060 3GB isn’t great for me now lmao
they’re cheaper at this point
also don’t forget that the RX570 is literally cheaper for the same thing
oh yeah actually I belive novideo won the war on the RX570
I apologize
but hey, at least the 2060S and the 2070S are defeated
5700 XT performance but with ray tracing



