#Rabbet plane

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

warm trellis
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I’m making a rabbet plane and I need some suggestions on making it better. I’m using a 1/2 inch chisel as a blade and when I try to plane maple the chisel pops out. Do I need to sharpen more or hammer it in more?

south kelp
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your wedge is like an inch below the sole of your plane....

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that plane should be protruding much, much less proud of the sole and the wedge should not be doing so at all

warm trellis
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Yeah I forgot to add that into the post

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I added that into the chat but forgot here

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I already cut it

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And I know I need to add a place for shavings to go away

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But do you have any other suggestions

loud hill
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Can you take a picture of what it actually looks like currently?

warm trellis
wild onyx
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So does the wedge fit correctly and hold the chisel in place?

I'm not sure what feedback you're looking for other than "do the rest"

warm trellis
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Yeah it fits well with the chisel but the chisel gets pushed up out of the area

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And it doesn’t cut at all

wild onyx
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You need to set the wedge with a small Hammer. Your wedge also doesn't have any place for shavings to escape. If The wedge does not fit very well, it's going to come loose easily

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Here's how I set wooden planes

  • Set it in the bench upright, put the iron and wedge in.
  • Set the wedge with a hammer while it's sitting on the bench
  • Check the edge projection with your eye. If it's more than 1/32", it's too much. Back the iron out by tapping the rear of the plane with hammer
  • Set the wedge again with hammer. You have to do this any time you make an adjustment
  • Check edge projection again, try planing. Adjust as needed.
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Yes your chisel needs to be very sharp for it to work for this

warm trellis
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Yeah

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I just tried sharpening

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But it does not get sharp enough no matter how much I hone and flatten on my stone

wild onyx
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!tag sharpening

rare nestBOT
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Sharpening Kit

We recommend obtaining waterstones in grits of 1000, 4000 and 8000 and a lapping plate for maintaining their flat faces.

  • Lower budget option - Norton or King. Combo grits are fine.
    These will require soaking and will wear faster which may require more diligence in maintaining your flat face. Start here if you’re new and/or if budget
  • Higher budget option - Shapton Ceramic Pro or Glass
    Shaptons are “splash and go” which simplifies storage, they wear slowly and cut quickly.

Both options will require lapping. You do not get your stones flat, you keep them there. Lap before every session and throughout long sessions.

  • Low Budget - Trend will get the job done.
  • Higher Budget - DMT Dia-Flat 10x4 will get the job done with hard use for 10 years.

Lastly, you need a bench grinder. It's really not optional, but it does not need to be expensive. If it turns on you can buy one from any garage sale, size does not matter but you will need a new wheel almost regardless. Ablative wheels will compensate for high-speed grinders but are not necessary.

The entire concept is very well summarized in Chris Schwarz' book "Sharpen This" linked here:
https://lostartpress.com/products/sharpen-this

wild onyx
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Read the book. It's free

warm trellis
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I’ll probably be able to get it sharp with just a cheap honing guide and oil stone right

wild onyx
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Did you read the book

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It will answer all your questions about sharpening