#Best choice for cross-cutting long boards at 45 degrees for a large box?

1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

wintry crow
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I'm working on just the top frame/box here with this question.

The top and bottom panels of the box are 45" long and all are about 15" wide. I could maybe use the table saw for the longer pieces but I am not confident I have enough clearance and support for the overhang.

I'm currently setting up my circular saw with a guide to do this job and did a few test cuts yesterday, but when putting two pieces together it looked like my jig moved a tiny bit because they were not meeting perfectly.

Looking for any tips on whether this is the right technique and I should just keep practicing until I get it right or is there another way people accomplish large mitered boxes? Or is this dumb and I should just do a simpler joint?

amber kiln
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I would make a tablesaw sled setup for beveled cuts. Much easier to keep a long piece stable on a sled vs just holding it up against the miter gauge in my opinion

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As far as changing the design: I think you could achieve the same look with a rabbeted carcass and then mitered edging on the front

kind smelt
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You can make a ramp stand for the overhang also, they’re very handy for support at the jointer, planer and TS

wintry crow
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Ok thank you. I'm hoping they have a sled that accepts 45º at the shop I sometimes use. They also have a rolling stand for supports I suppose I could experiment with if that's what you mean by ramp stand?
And good point on just going with a rabbeted edge if all else fails. It won't be that noticeable with the mitered face edges.

amber kiln
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That's probably how I would construct it personally

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Regardless of the tools I have

wintry crow
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The rabbeted joint?

amber kiln
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Just a stronger, less fiddly joint

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Yepp

wintry crow
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Yeah you're probably right there. Also way easier

kind smelt
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Ages much better too

wintry crow
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Interesting!

amber kiln
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Those miters will open up with seasonal expansion and contraction

wintry crow
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That's good to know– never heard that before

wintry crow
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I can't see how a rabbeted joint would fade into a 30º front-facing edge

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I should mention that my intent was to create a waterfall edge and the 30º edges are already cut

amber kiln
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I was suggested rabbeted carcass with mitered edging

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so you'd have a 3/4" or so thick edging on the front that's mitered

wintry crow
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Oh that makes sense

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I could probably trim what i have now and slap it on there

amber kiln
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Yepp