#off-topic-tech
1 messages Β· Page 3 of 1
The only consideration is the 24-pin, I don't recall where exactly the routing holes are at in the 4000d
thats the most important part to me. cant use my quest 2 for more than a few minutes because my head doesnt like it
pro2 is supposedly super comfy
yea but, have you seen the bigscreen beyond?
i have the classic vive and can wear it for 1-2 hours with no discomfort
there
also, cosmos is around 600, pro 2 is like 850 and beyond is 1370
i might go 200mm just to be safe
So maybe go with 200mm just to be safe
lol same thought
its the ligthest vr headset in existance
oh if you want that get the xr elite
also didn't know your budget was that high
its not lol
why would i choose it over the beyond?
beyond has 2560x2560, xr elite has 1920x1920
the xr elite has an entire computer build into it
that thing doesn't look particularly comfy
the beyond?
i get it's light, but no overhead support
they literally take a 3d scan of your face to make the face thing fit ur face perfectly
wait xr elite has no overhead strap
and theres a thing for overhead support too i think
oh jeez that's fancy
200mm for the eps too?
Yeah... you have to use an Iphone for it lol
No, those are definitely fine at 150
Cool
The case has holes about two inches from the eps connectors on your board
the vive xr elite weighs 600 grams, the bigscreen beyond is 127 grams
and u can get this here:
the cables
looks like a load of green there but most of the case will be black
plus imagine it glowing
If you're going for a cyberpunk theme, you could do flourescent blue cable combs
Or a neon yellow
Yellow might be best... analagous colors
closest thing is gold
Oh π¦
my options
gonna go 1 comb on the 24pin and eps to save a little cost
actually 2 on the 24 pin
default is 3 for all cables
still gonna be 150usd in cables
Yeah... IMO if you're going to spring for custom cables there's no point in skimping on stuff like that
2 combs would probably be best for eps & 24pin IMO
think imma do this actually
Oh nice
looks more cyberpunk-y
I agree
blue combs was a bit much so i switched back to green
still went for 3 combs on the pcie cables
THEY HAVE UV LED STRIPS!
omg thats perfect
hm, do i do 24inch or 12 inch tho
See above comment
IMO if you're going to spring for custom cables there's no point in skimping on stuff like that
nah but i'm tryna see what's best in the case
gonna do a kit with a 12in strip, and a second 12 inch strip
wait no gotta do two kits
i'm thinking one for the top one for the front
or
i could do a 24 inch strip and just start at the back
so it would just continue down the front
that could look cool
That's not a bad idea
There... should be
I mean like i don't want to have to go left/right too much
i think there is
it'd be 190usd before tax
24in is out of stock rn so that's with the 12in price
yeah that'll be cool
saving that for later
You might also want to check out www.performance-pcs.com/
I'd do a price cmoparison there
They're probably going to be more expensive for everything though
Get some nice textured foil and put one more strip at the bottom
Put the foil on the blue thing
But a word of caution
UV strips suck ass
And the days where you can get some nice UV tubes are over 
but like glowy cables
and uv reactive stuff fits the cyberpunk theme perfectly
i could get some stickers and just fill that little bit
i feel like the busyness would look good
wait wdym by textured foil
some sticker foil that has some texture like carbonfiber optic or something
I understand. I also have UV reactive coolant for my watercooling. But UV strips usually have a lifespan of half a year
6 month lifespan?
what happens when they go bad
do they just look like shit or do they just die
they loose power very fast and the plastic tends to basically disintegrate and gets yellow-ish
what would be a good alternative?
why are they all so long
12.6in?
at least for PC
lemme check my case dimensions
remember that they also need power. Those ain't running from your 5V RGB
i could drill a hole in the back of the pc case
you would have to
if i do it in the back it should be fairly easy
and not really a concern about ruining the structural integrity or hitting a cable
you think a 320mm uv tube would fit in here?
but then you also have to think about the plastics of all your other components
oh yeah true
kinda forget UV light fucks plastic
maybe UV light in a pc case ain't the best idea
back in the day when you had 200% performance improvement every gen every half a year it didn't matter
because UV meant you were an enthusiast and swap em out
just get some nice white cables π
wait are shimmer cables rainbow only?
i could use the same cables minus the UV light
same color minus the glow
would still look cool
purple RGB light could look cool
won't make the cables glow, but would still look nice
what would UV light do to plastic
lian li strimer
could i make that whatever color i want
very depending on the plastic
if i install a UV light and only turn it on for short times periodically would it be alright
they're RGB cables
best case: nothing
worst case:
so yes, you could
wanted to make sure they werent just stuck to rainbow mode
oh yeah they make loads of shimmer cables
can always double check
that might be the best option
i want a themed GPU but holy that'd be a pain
if i get an nzxt kraken aio i could put the cyberpunk edgerunners symbol on it
Don't get kraken, it's meh
but the lcd screen
Could do lt720 or (if you can't without screen) aorus waterforce
There's also this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7bXcojLipME
This is a tutorial on how to install a Sensor Panel in your PC to view hardware information aka a Sensor Panel.
β₯Corsair 7000D Airflow: https://bit.ly/3xSFmWJ
βFROST PC Build: https://bit.ly/3iI1tdX
βΆParts Listβ
5 Inch Display: https://geni.us/G8nk
7 Inch Display: https://geni.us/sJUdcCh
Standoff screw kit: https:...
I think if there's any mod like that that I end up doing in the near future it'll be an lcd side panel
is the kraken bad based on anything other than price?
the 7800x intro made me smile
btw for the youtube bullshit with ublock origin
You can just use block element to get rid of it
I'm talking about the video locking
Yeah... that works
All you have to do is zap the div that they throw up over the entire screeen
you can enable everything but :
- easy list - chat widgets
- easy list - notifications
- adguard - ads
- adguard URL Tracking Protection
I'm not talking about the notice
Tf is this
I'm talking about the video locking behind it
I dont see the notice already
I was just fiddling with what filter lock the videos
Evidently they just called you a tab
the ublock origin current notice is to only enable built-in filters
YouTube why do you do this to me
but I was telling you all that currently you can actually enable EVERYTHING
execpt this
and it works then
wait no
now it's back to locked wtf
ok jso no adguard ad filters ?
weird
updated list
weird inconsistencies
will try to update it
with these settings, it does not work when launching a link, but it works when refreshing it
wait mb, you can actually enable everything completly just by refreshing the youtube pages
weird
@jagged snow you use AutoCAD right?
I use Fusion360 and/or Inventor
oh nvm then
somehow I landed a job for my uni using AutoCAD and organizing files and what not even thought its not my major
Oh cool!
What exactly is the job description?
I'm wondering how autocad and file organization go together
they keep digital and printed floor plans and whatnot of campus buildings
so like filing, scanning them, for that
and also some editing of those files too
benefit is ill know when new buildings are being remodeled or being built 
Sweet
I would paste the exact job description but its on the clear web
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/Vzr34M
anything youd change to squeeze out some more money? budget is around 1500 euros and with it like this id have to cannibalize my old pc/laptop for an ssd
trying for a white theme obvsly but if i can save a lot by compromising on that i wouldnt mind
I wonder how heavy and sloppy flexible tubes can be
@sterile agate
very, especially depending on what kind of tubing you get. the tubing for my new watercool setup (pictured) is thicker, and heavier (EK-ZMT) than my current clear tubes internal in the system i showed off in the dedicated server chat
the black tubing for this, especially with 2 10+ foot runs of it, is thiiiiiiiiiiiick
For stuff like this do you drill a hole in the case?
some cases have watercooling punchouts standard, some have room to drill, some you use a PCIE slot passthrough
I have a passthrough port that replaces a PCIE cover on my backplate for mine (when i get around to picking cases, i may or may not need it)
(don't let the fact there is only 4 fans fool you, those are each 200mm noctuas π )
external rad kinda sounds cool
cool, but expensive π
iirc, everything pictured here + some spare fittings + the piping run back to the PC was closer to $1,500 than $1k
more tubing and more coolant than a in case rad
JUST IN WATER COOLING STUFF?
just in part of the watercoolign stuff, without talking about CPU block or GPU block
holy
lemme find my pcpartpicker list with the pricetag
custom loop is pricey
yeah ik
So less sloppy
here we go, the total includes aa $230 case that i haven't touched yet, so it's $230 less than the listed total https://pcpartpicker.com/user/GwenBD94/saved/vMJZcf
I mean can your clear ones wiggle a bit when you move the pc case for instance ?
jesus
tempted to go hardline custom loop for my cyberpunk build i'm planning
but jesus that price tag
then I also didn't want a mcgiver power solution (either a separate PSU at the MO-RA, with jumpered 24-pin connector, or like 20 wires back and froth from MO-RA to PC), and I used to be an electrician, so I went all out and dropped another $150 on a quick-disconnect 18-pin cannon connector, and a 18-strand power cable to go from the PC to the MO-RA as well
yeah definitely
they have some give, not a whole lot
oh quick connect for the external rad
but some
that's smart
3 quick connects, 2 for liquid, 1 for power
thats what I have now. front/bottom. (I did an inverted right-hand build in my super-modular case currently)
wait i can fit 2 360mm rads
PSU on top, motherboard against left wall of the case, upside down. 2 360s one front one bottom
nice and chilly
might go neon green coolant
would fit the black with yellow/green accents i'm doing
as someoen who did the realyl cool EK Mystic fog for my first build, trust, the maintenance on fun coolants for the payoff dies quickly
as well as if you do clear tubing (to see yoru fun coolant), it'll stain easily with most coolants
less so if you go hardline than softtubing
leak less quick connect ?
if you do hardline, do NOT do PETG for a daily driver rig. do acrylic
I always wondered how well that kind of liquid connect performs
could do neon green opaque/translucent tubing
it'll have a couple of drops, but yes advertizing as no leak
same effect without the coolant being finnicky
i think translucent would be better, could still see the coolant running through it
opaque coolants look fun but also have micro particulates that clog up your fins quicker, and tend to stain more than fully translucent colors ftr
i meant tubing not coolant
o yeah π
prolly go clear coolant
I mean out leak at connect/disconnect is fine
in leak at connect/disconnect is a bit annoying
any leak once connected/disconnected is not acceptable
glad i picked a common case
they make distribution blocks for my specific case
don't have to worry about if it fits
yep exactly this is basicalyl waht it is afaik
you know a good brand for translucent hardline tubing?
distribution blocks are fun but can also be very finicky for a first build, but I almsot did the same so i understand
believe it or not, a lot of good options on aliexpress by a number of namebrand chinese companies in the watercoolign scene
especially if you wanan go a non-standard color, ebst bet is to find it on aliexpress
as in lining everything up right
ah
because they're so precisely machined and designed, they have near 0 tolerance for error
don't they make offset fittings for when stuff isn't quite in line?
(mildly unrelated)
yep, but more fittings = more points of failure is the general attitude in watercooling
the most likely to fail part of any build is o rings
So what of these 3 leak types you experienced ?
other than cheap pumps ofc
I haven't actually run water thru it yet π
its supposed to be clean to connect and no leak during operation, but a couple drops on disconnect
what brand of fittings would you trust the most
i'm not super experienced enough to answer that, i'd join the /watercooling discord and ask there
leak out on disconnect is the most fine of all the leak possible
whoops looks like this is a tmr issue, later than i thought it was
mhm. kind of unavoidable on liquid systems
i'll check out that discord
@dusk rivet
yep but then it's completely fine that's what I meant π
Ek
HA. Dawid called the 12VHPWR an "arson connector" & now i'm never calling it anything else
Vox media is now pay walling some articles
The AMD multichip CPUs have major problem with idle power efficiency.
The IOD cannot really power down and takes comparatively lot of power.
Yeah I've heard that
But mostly referring to efficiency under load
Would lose warranty, pay very expensive postage, and probably pay the taxes anyways, unless the package somehow passes the import tax office checking for incoming packages.
Don't forget to go all the way and figure out how to buy from one of the states in the USA with no sales tax.
stock images go hard
Yep
Yeah, not that important for most for desktop.
But very important if AMD wants to make chiplet laptop CPUs.
Yeah... also if the handheld space keeps growing like it has it'll be good there
Part of the reason why everything but the top end is still monolithic for AMD.
Yeah
if he had a friend here willing to buy it for him, and send it to him and they declare it as a gift, and lie and claim the value of it is <$200 or whatever it is then.. maybe
And still be out of warranty, so not really worth it.
still, no warrenty.. yup. it's better to just bite it sadly
I wouldn't rule that out. For a big enough price difference, the risk of having to pay for a replacement out of pocket is arguably worth it.
But the price difference isn't that big, even if you got the US item completely without taxes.
it's only a couple hundred difference on a thousand euro purchase i think
Less
Right, this could only be for some sort of drastic sale, perhaps on a refurbished item that only has a 90-day warranty anyway. Though in Europe don't you require one year warranties even for used things?
I've been too busy learning about unify stuff to really follow that convo lol.
And you're fucked when you have shipping damage
That too. if the price difference was 200% okay, sure I'd probably take that chance.
or even 150%. whatever. if it was 500 there and 1000 here then maybe
my cousin did stuff like that way back so he wouldn't have to pay taxes on airplane parts
$400 and no poe D:
@jagged snow 95c hotspots at 1440p for my 6700XT
So still fine.
If the difference between the hotspot and the "normal" temperature isn't too large.
Nah, the hotspot goes up to 110C usually.
its about 20C
So still somewhat normal AFAIK.
gpu sits at 73C hotspot is usually 20c higher
This is after a repaste
before i jumped to 115c
So general temp is fine, might have bad contact/paste at some specific spot or be just normal too.
soo i may wanna add more paste next time
Or can be just the tightening sequence etc.
Or be completely normal.
Hotspot can reach 112-115 but shouldn't be at that level too long
I normally sit in the 80-90s with 1080p and 90-96c 1440p
My card holds hotspots in the mid-eighties most kf the time
Too large difference tells about cooler contact failure.
And too high for both can also be cooler contact failure.
But mainly need to look at that difference to see if there is a problem.
I can try tighenting the cooler down again
You're not stressing the card enough then
@sharp oasis generally what you want to watch out for is a delta of 30+ or temperatures at or near tjmax
I just run a really aggressive fan curve
so my 20C diffrence is ok so far
That's in furmark or timespy
Whats the Tjmax of my Gpu 110C?
Yeah that's fine
115 probably
115C?
That 115C it hit before throttling.
For the hotspot.
For the other one it is lower.
Or you throttlet for the hotspot, and the other was at 80C at that time.
Usually the normal throttle is 90-100C
ahh
Neither of you can spell throttle suddenly 

Yup, need to eat some breakfast...
Enjoy that
I'm headed to bed π
Bed boy
gn
i did a X pattern Spread with thermal grizzly hydronaut
could possibly not have enough coverage i assume
No idea, would need to open to see.
Ill do that if it gets in the danger zone
You can save a lot on SSD, cooler and RAM - even when sticking to the white aesthetic.
Plus you need fans for that case.
@torpid plaza do you want/need RGB or do you not want it at all?
dont care about rgb at all
id have all the lights turned to pure white
oh thats the wrong list
sory, give me a sec
its the one where i looked at ssd prices
this is the correct one
NM790 for high-end btw. NM620 for basic and MP44L for mid end
Add a three pack of TL-C12CW-S, check Amazon for a cheaper listing on the cooler and maybe switch to a less expensive PSU with white extensions.
Again, not available in Europe...
For the fans.
You again are thinking with US availability and prices.
Cooler Master MWE Bronze V2 for PSU. 700W or 750W
Not available from what you consider official retailers
So absolute crap?
If it really is just 80+ Bronze.
You can definitely get them on Amazon for prices similar to those in US
B Tier on cultists
Yes, it can be well made, but still crap design.
So it is safe, just otherwise bad.
Not like 80+ rating means anything, P750GM is 80+ Gold
Yes, because reliability and part quality is one thing, the efficiency is another.
The old "Any Gold PSU" was because at that time you couldn't make 80+ Gold PSU with bad parts.
UD750GM then? Same OEM as P750GM, Luke Savenije told me he's still sceptical about it
But at this time just Bronze means that the internals are just very old type bad design overall.
Questioning your drive for absolute cheapest "good enough", even when the price difference can be small and the other choice is inexpensive and has something extra.
And in this case as the thing will not be bought immediately, going for that kind of "exact this model" isn't really that useful yet.
That comes when it is actually time to buy the thing, this is general budgeting.
I know
I'm just trying to figure out PSU advice.
I've gone with "cheapest that works" and didn't really bother with quality differences
And that the build seems to be going with white theme, and the PSU was white too, and that specific one is black.
White PSUs are pretty rare.
No:
i might survive using a black psu if its cheaper
oh yea i think itll be covered by the case anyway π
But that kind of exact things are better to lock once you are ready to buy.
IMHO using time right now for that kind of per component level part selection isn't that useful right now.
As I said, white extensions.
80β¬ PSU + 30β¬ cables < 130β¬ PSU
And for the fans, I still think that buying chinese sourced and sold grey-market fans for few euro difference per fan is counterproductive.
As in private chinese citizen bought fans in China, shipped them to German Amazon and is selling them through one man company.
to me its just a fun thing by itself, like a game. trying to optimize a pc build
See it as an opportunity to teach me about PSUs
Haven't kept up.
And PSU market in Finland is again more limited.
So when I have had to make suggestion, I have looked at the finnish prices, and then looked at the reviews for interesting seeming ones.
You're the only one I've ever heard this from.
Doesn't mean you're not right, just weird to me.
@sand saddle what's your take on this?
That is what all the chinese company sold stuff on Amazon basically is.
Both EU and US.
Isn't Thermalright from Taiwan?
Fly by night temporary companies where the names change all the time mostly.
Selling whatever they can source in China, either direct from factories or via some middleman.
Can be night-time production or QA rejects.
I used C12C yesterday, I like them
But they have retail presence in China.
And the production is probably in China.
German Amazon
Where the only stuff is sold by chinese companies.
And the night-time production means the factory operator running the factory with second shift during the night, without the ok of the company they should be producing the stuff for, and selling it direct.
Without any reporting to the "line" leaser.
And? The product matters. Seller matters just as long as you get the product.
Problem is that the stuff can be QC rejects, near-things, those night-productions, and there isn't any warranty.
Yes, you CAN get the real thing, or not.
Sold by thermalright.eur: www.amazon.de/dp/B0BKKTBL49
Which has nothing to do with Thermalright if you click on the firm.
Amazon doesn't care if Thermalrights lawyers don't contact them.
That was the point, that when buying anything from Amazon you need to check the actual seller info, because half of them are like this.
Selling grey market stuff bough in China and shipped to Amazon.
With one man companies in China.
And if some item has both legit seller and China seller, the items are mixed.
At the Amazon warehouse.
So even if you buy from the legit source, you might get the China grey-market item or even a fake.
If the item isn't fake or QC reject, then the only issue would be lack of warranty.
But you cannot know what you get before you get it, and you cannot know if it is QC reject.
Or part of midnight run with worse components.
Still like 2 times cheaper than alternatives. Even if a fan breaks, replacing it is cheaper than buying an alternative that could break as well.
Nice
i can see that making horrible noises if not kept perfectly clean
Oh my looooorrrdddd
oh i thought the fan was metal too π€£
Nah just the chassis
just tac weld it to the case
So don't buy Thermalright at all?
Not really worth it given how much more equally good fans cost
Depends on place?
Mainly I wouldn't buy from Amazon if possible not to.
US is already in place where not doing that is pretty hard.
If you can buy from legit Thermalright reseller, then great.
But getting chinese grey market imports isn't worth it IMHO.
Also equally good fans aren't that much more expensive π€£
If you have difficulties to decide wether to pay 2$ more or to buy from a grey market Chinese seller getting rejects/after dark items, you have other issues
Can in theory be legit, but no way to know.
Thermalright might not even know the items existed ever.
Or think they were trashed for failing to pass QC for the run.
Or just have been bought legit at chinese wholesale prices.
30 bucks a fan?
i dont have an addiction... i swear...
was it honest or not ?
wdym, addiction to not restarting your computer ?
the video he made? he seemed dead serious and quite pissed off
no to ussing it lol
I mean I'm trying to get what the real link between Igor and der8auer
I didnt get it, and the video is down
Igor vs Roman or what is going on?
yep
I dont know either of those, but I want to know if I cross the way of any of these people how it goes
Roman was approached for a mainboard sponsorship by Gigabyte, declined it because they were too demanding in what he'd have to do/include in the video.
Igor showed that same graphics that Roman was asked to show in a CPU review using a Gigabyte board - without ever disclosing any sponsorship involvement
Oh
then he also went on about reflinks for hardware Igor reviewed
ok, I would have get pissed a bit too
like: you get paid more the better you make the product look, how's that a trustworthy review?
I agree with the concern
Well, I hadn't thought of Igor that way. He usually discloses every sponsorship
But maybe I hadn't read that article because gigabyte can go down the drain and I wouldn't care
btw, I want to share my useless struggle to you
because I'm a bit confused with it
I some time ago bought a chairwheel kit full metal to replace a defective one for my chair
and now it started to leak the tiny beads that are poorly maintained inside it (ball bearing alike shit)
and now as I have a new chair I'm a bit confused
I bought that metal wheels for reliability, and now they are failing on me
and I have a new normal wheel kit that goes with the new chair, but it's not metal
is it worth switching kit
is it worth trying to re-lock the beads inside the ball bearing of the (then identified) loosen wheel mount
the balls are falling out of the ball bearings?
kind of, these are not real ball bearings
maybe there's a reason why Roman unlisted and then took down the video
there is no ball separators which are usually mandatory to spread the load (chinese shit)
(I didnt find any better kit sadly)
that's why I'm interested in understanding, I want to get why the video went private
idk either, ask Roman I guess
there are two possibility :
- false transparency (self take down)
- outside pressure (legal/strategical take down)
that's bullshit. I'm sorry. You could try to fix them, I guess it wouldn't hurt. Only thing it'll do is break again which is likely.. those are supposed to be pressed togeather I think.
if they're not all falling apart, maybe there's poor OC on that part/those slipped through
OC ?
QC*
It may have been too loose from start, that's why I'm thinking of maybe fixing it
I would have to open it, remove the beads, then clutch close the gaps (I cant if beads are there and blocking compression)
then release and put the beads back in without loosing more the thing
If it was me, I think I'd go with another kit. Without seeing it, I can't know. but I think they're pressed together with press.
Your time is probably more valuable than fixing chair casters
I dont have press but I have big clamp and strong hands
though I may be too weak still
these are a bit thick
but then I have the solution to use the kit included with the new chair, but I'm afraid it fails like the old one
though worth noting : the new chair is well better quality than the old one, so maybe the wheels are better quality too
and maybe with the better quality stand the wheels will not struggle as much
but chair's wheels are pretty much standards so I dont believe the new chair have That better quality wheels
the nice thing about metal wheels is that if they fail, they fail slowly
they do not snap like plastic ones
so it's both safer for me and for the reminding parts of the chair
I'm on the : my time AND my money are very valuable, part of the social spectrum
(quite sadly)
(and if you wonder why I'm here : my mental health is very valuable too)
So sharing to get some external opinions is nice sometimes
what gigabyte did to you ?
or is it you just don't care for any manufacturer ?
Old grudge from ~15 years ago. Probably not worth holding that π
Made psus that explode
Wrong chat π
/jk
A motherboard was not working, RMA with detailed explanation, got the same thing back without change like 'no fault found', RMA again, same thing, returned it to the dealer and got an ABIT
Now dead MB maker.
The maker of the legendary BP6 dual Celeron boardπ
still have that thing, would probably need new caps to turn on
god is it hard to find colored acrylic tubing from reputable brands
oh ok
when I will start to do custom loops
I think my first build will be clean tubes
and my second opaque black tubing (but with clean tank)
Performance pcs sells some
So does cooler master, lianli, and ek iirc
couldnβt find any from ek
and specifically iβm looking for transparent green acrylic
found some but wasnβt easy
Even the EKWB own store doesn't list colored tubing.
found 10x14mm which works with the nice ekwb 14mm fittings i found
now i just need something to bend it
what do i even use to bend it
an english wheel
Heat gun
ya heat and something with a bend like a wheel or something like that or a piece of wood even
do i just use a heat gun and eye ball it?
Also why not just use colored coolant?
someone told me colored coolant can have particulates that can clog fins
if its cheaper plastic a hir drier would work
itβs 2mm thick acrylic
perfect
Who
nice find
.
Yeah that's opaque
oh i literally just read it wrong then
iβll get neon green coolant with clear tubes then
This is normal coolant
premixed cause i canβt be bothered to mix it myself
also afraid iβll mess it up somehow
donβt they have pressure tools to check for leaks?
like where you pressurize it then wait a while to see if it loses any pressure
You really don't need that
If you have money to spend sure. It's a nice to have
if theyβre fairly cheap itβll give me peace of mind which iβm fine paying for
knowing iβm not about to have a leak before filling the loop with coolant would be great for me
I can recommend this one. No bad experience so far
Depends on the colorant.
looks dark, kinda hoping to get a bright green
The Pros of colored coolant is that the leaks are very easy to spot
Same with any of the coolants/additives.
That's because the bottle is thicc. Tubes are thin
the thing is i use my computer so much for so many difrent things often even remotely that even if i turn it off its nerver off for long enough to fully shut down so unless i flick off the psu it practically nerver fully turns off
i wonder if you could use coolant for your car?
ah so itβll look lighter in the tubes?
Yes
sounds like a horrible idea that someone has absolutely tried
And if it's still too dark you can always use distilled water to lighten it
i mean that is bright green color you want,
ah thats a great idea too. distilled water.
Car coolant is just anticorrosion additive package, colorant based on the additive package type and glycol as antifreeze.
If the seals in the loop are ok for the additive package type then there is no problem there mostly.
ek makes an acid green that looks perfect
good to know thank you.
also anti-algae etc. in the additives.
you think 1liter is good enough?
And so many people forgot to include anticorrosion and antialgae stuff in their coolant.
dual rad 360mm , cpu+gpu cooled, 405ml reservoir
Buy two
that was the plan, just double checking
You'll neve know how much you spill
worst case i have a bit of extra coolant that i can chug
that's why the tank would still be clear
Wait is you first loop ever gonna be hardtubed?
maybe
Ambitious
either your turn off your computer or you dont turn off your computer,
and even if you Power off your computer, it does not mean it is fully restarting
Your project size is more like two days for a first timer
turning off your computer by shuting down windows does not reset the uptime count
because the system does not restart
Also remember that a 360 radiator isn't 360
They are a bit bigger because of the connectors
thatβs fine
could you do me a huge favor and see if two 360mm rads will fit in the corsair 4000d airflow
Brother I'm on my phone rn
lol
i think they only have mounts for one rad in that case. you might need some extra brackets or whatnot
it has room for 3 120mm fans in the front and top
make make some mock up radiators out stryfoam or something
Or connectors obstructing each other
ya, thats the prob with my coolermasters case
I have a scratch in the paint of one of mine because of that
hm two 360mm rads might be a problem then
Just be sure to triplecheck the measurements
its hard to tell without looking at the connectors. like you could the second in, but it might not connect to the system
quick questions, how do regular Unifan AL120 compare to AL120 V2 in terms of performance?
and if there's a difference, where does it come from? blade designs seem identical to me
skill issue
if it was little more deep looks like you could mount on on the top.
yeah
i actually build an outboard one on my experiment,
Wow that's a thin radiator
ya super sexy, i like it, how much did that set you back, i need a new system for my other workstation.
i could do the lian li 011 dynamic
You could do the o11 dynamic evo xl
so big tho
no one walking off with that case lol
gonna need 2-3 people to help me lift the pc once itβs fully assembled
Oh yeah copper and water is heavy
my case of similiar size is atleast 60kg
Evo non-xl?
thatβs what i was looking at
H9 flow so pretty tho
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/irohlikestea/saved/8XC7wP
pretty good i think
that smooth transition on the glass without the black bar where the panels meet is nice
one thing nzxt has going for it is the aesthetics
@gleaming shadow But you need somewhere around 7400MT/s speed with that 1:2 memory controller speed to catch up to just 6000MT/s 1:1.
what fans?
also overpriced MB and PSU
And I still dislike the idea of removing that gorgeous GPU cooler
but water cooling
Booting into memtest atm
fans tbd
that also doesnβt include the cablemod cables
you got a better option for psu and motherboard?
psu needs to be a brand cablemod supports
Should be fine at Auto, but that 6400 XMP was "dangerous" without testing.
And that automatic UCLK= MCLK/2 nerfed the performance, hard.
Not anymore, you're doing extensions
Let me try that xmp again, they sold en as 6800 ram, but it's 4800
JEDEC vs. XMP/EXPO.
thermaltake GF1 - but market is volatile, pick it once you're buying
JEDEC is guaranteed to work, XMP isn't at your machine.
and MB: MSI Gaming Plus or Pro
XMP is guaranteed to work at golden sample Intel machine.
EXPO is guaranteed to work on golden sample AMD machine.
And when did you last upgrade your BIOS?
Are you on 1.0.0.7c AGESA yet?
Lemme check still running memtest
1.0.0.7b made running over 6000MT/s RAM much easier to get working.
Baldur's gonna kill me for it, TL-C12C-S or TL-S12-S.
Other than that, Phanteks D30 or AL120 V2 for RGB, T30 without, Silent Wings Pro 4 if you want pitch black
Where can I find that? My x670E mb is version 1.24.as02
If you can actually get them, then they are fine.
MB manufacturer support site for the exact MB model.
That was the current UEFI firmware version probably, not MB model.
And as you didn't know that, it probably means you have pretty old UEFI/BIOS version, with as old AGESA.
New enough to limit to just 1.30V SOC though.
Trying to find that version number lol
You just get the newest for your MB, if it is newer than what you have.
Just impossible to get legit in many places.
So Asrock MB with AGESA 1.0.0.7a currently.
ASRock still seems to only have 1.0.0.7b containg 1.28 as the latest stable BIOS version, the 1.0.0.7c:s are still BETA.
That 1.28 should be fine in this case, it brings the memory stability improvements.
For over 6000MT/s memory clock.
Yes.
Don't expect it to be showing anything newer.
1.28 listed as version on the left, and then AGESA 1.0.0.7b listed at top right.
emphasis on "legit"
just like it's impossible to find a legit windows key for under 80β¬
And if memtest doesn't pass with that with XMP on, try lowering the RAM frequency first to 6200MT/s, then to 6000MT/s, and set that UCLK DIV MODE to UCLK=MEMCLK to get performance back.
Should work fine with 6200MT/s with 1:1.
Seems you were on the 1.24.02 with AGESA 1.0.0.7 (no letter), not even the 1.24 with 1.0.0.7a.
When bios is update is finished leme get back on that
Always hate bios updates...
if i have to update my bios to make my cpu compatible can i do that without needing another cpu for that motherboard?
Not with that MB.
will also have to check prices on mainboard, RAM, SSD and maybe GPU
It has CPU-less flashing support. Like almost all AM5 boards.
wait which of the two?
wdym
you said "not with that board" which means no and then "it has cpu-less flashing support" which means yes
That he doesn't need another CPU.
oh and i need to update that iβm using green coolant clear tubes
"can I do that" - "not with that MB"
So yeah, I turned it around in my head, misremembered the question wording.
all good
So can be done without another CPU:
meh
i have a specific need
2x48 if you need capacity
oh really
2x24 if you need more than 2x16 but fast
2x48 should be about as fast as 2x24 or 2x16?
Unless really trying to push the RAM clock.
i can get 6400mhz 2x32
plenty of speed, especially compared to my current 3200mhz 2x16
Doesn't mean the CPU IMC can do that at 1:1.
ideally, you'd use HEM anyway
what speed would be better
Good fun pc won't turn on anymore
6000
You let it finish?
And turn off by itself or reboot?
even with new AGESA?
Finished
when in doubt, percussive maintenance (joking)
And then let if wait for 5 minutes after rebooting.
ah that works
Then I turned xmb on and wanted to go to memtest
The RAM training can take multiple minutes now with the 6400MT/s RAM.
Now it gos on, fans soin for the 5 secs or so, then it powers off
For first time.
It turned off on it self
Clear the CMOS then, to reset the XMP to off.
teamgroup 2x32 6000mhz
I understood that the BIOS flashing failed originally.
Not that you got into BIOS and set XMP on again.
And what are the debug leds on the MB doing?
Because it might just be training the RAM when you think it shut itself down.
CMOS cleared im in bios again
That can take multiple minutes to happen.
Up to 5 minutes.
It defo turned off
is overclocking a thing with the 7800x3d?
and if it is, is it a reasonable thing to do
Not really, only through curve optimizer, and extra MHz cannot be added.
pbo?
And PBO doesn't really do anything, as the default isn't ever reached.
whats pbo
Raised power limits.
ah
Precision Boost Overdrive.
my pc will stay forever chilly then
10 fans, dual 360mm rads on a custom loop, no overclocking
Haven't been able to make mine take more than 86W based on HWiNFO numbers.
H9 flow looks so pretty
will look even better once i get in all the cyberpunk themed stuff
ooh i still need to add the little monitor for inside the pc
idk if i mentioned recently that iβm going for a cyberpunk theme
But you can try to enable the XMP again, then save and wait 5 minutes, no matter what the computer seems to be doing.
Setting fans again and setting up waterpump
Yeah I took it out of the cabinet so I can look inside
And remember you can set the basic stuff, save them to a profile, before setting the XMP.
So you can restore the basic stuff easily if you need to clear CMOS again.
Profiles are saved even when CMOS clear?
6900xt delivery today π
Usually.
And IIRC ASRock has option to save them to disk/stick as files too.
Will I notice alot of difference with the xmb on?
You recon? If not I'll leave as is probly
From 4800MT/s? Probably.
But the easy way would be to enable the XMP and then set the memory frequency to just 6000MT/s instead of 6400MT/s.
Not optimized, but pretty close.
I'll show changelog 1 moment
Turned on xmp, changed speed to 6000, and that other option memclk thing
Letting it run and boot into memtest
Yeah, with 6000MT/s RAM the MEMCLK thing would have already defaulted to 1:1.
Over 6000 it defaults to 1:2.
And causes lot higher RAM access latency, causing performance loss compared to 6000MT/s until the RAM speed goes over 7200-7400MT/s.
Which is why for 6200MT/s test I suggested putting it manually to 1:1, which should work fine with 1.0.0.7b or later AGESA with those other settings the XMP forces.
It defo turned off again no LEDs inside
Wait that 5 minutes.
17.28 to 17.36..
See if the 4 debug leds are lit, one should be if it is trying to train.
None are on
And short pressing the power button turns the system on momentarely, and it shuts down again?
Ok, very weird then.
So reset the CMOS again and use without XMP for now.
And wait for next stable BIOS update to try again.
Aight
I'm not going to start digging if ASRock has some bug in there that could be bypassed.
You could also try to set those same settings without enabling the XMP.
XMP just sets them automatically.
First just the voltages, then save & reboot, then the frequency, save-reboot, then the latencies.
With two missing probably, tRCD 40 and tRP 40.
If that RAM was supposed to be 32-40-40 @ 6400MT/s.
Honestly in most PCs you want to use fancontrol software anyways to be able to control case fans off of GPU temp
At least most gaming PCs
Or just use MB temperature with custom curve?
Or get extra temperature probe for the header if your MB has one and stick that sensor to somewhere nice, and base on that.
I don't like that because of possible DPC latency issues.
But the third party programs are probably ok now, had some problems long ago.
Many of the MB maker ones used to be completely horrible.
yup
This picture pains me...
The CPU fan is at left and the GPU fan is on right, but the curves are the other way around...
fixed it for you
is more fans at lower rpm quieter than less fans at higher rpm
Depends.
AMD Threadripper breaks 148K Cinebench R23 score, a new world record The company invited members of the media to its headquarters for the first public demo of the new Threadripper platform. One of the sessions included an extreme overclocking attempt, a successful one, one may add.Β The review and performance embargo for the Threadripper 7000 [β¦...
We were able to obtain a screenshot from this session, which confirms the achieved score and reveals that liquid nitrogen cooling was employed. It appears that the CPU was overclocked to sustain a 4.4 GHz boost clock across all 96 cores, demanding over 620 watts of power.
The current world record is set at an impressive 147,668 points achieved with a dual EPYC 9654 setup, so the Threadripperβs 148,719 score has successfully surpassed the previous record.
cpus be rippin
what would be the best fans for keeping a case nice and quiet
or hold on someone had a chart somewhere for performance based on audio level
yeah i canβt find it
ANy one here also knows how i default the "foliage.LODDistanceScale" to 5? i have to manualy enter it in console everytime i run game
adding it to Engine.ini didnt help;
foliage.LODDistanceScale 5
only redirecting cause i know the folks over there know how to
The biggest you can fit
best i can do is 120mm
NF-A12x25 would be a nice start for a silent system
35 usd per fan
at least until now that was my recommendation. the Alphacool Apex Stealth Metal seem interesting
You want 10 fans.
But at that level no matter what fan you get, you need to limit the speed.
i mean the case would need 10 fans
2 360mm rad top+bottom mounted, 1 in the back, 3 on the side
just because the case can fit 10 fans doesn't mean you have to place that many
would be a bit of a waste not to
iβll stick with the fans i got
can only get in packs of 3 tho, so ig iβm gonna end up with 2 extra
would it be silly to put fans on both sides of the rads
No fans in my bottom or top slots for my cases.
thatβs what i was looking for
Mediocre, plenty of better fans out there
As can be seen in the chart above
Definitely not me that set up an entire server just for managing resources I use for the PCPP server
Kinda but not really
what makes me smile is it bursts dual socket server setup with a single setup
Wtf
π didn't see that
Also, fuck that axis scaling
Interpolation gone wild
X axis is always the thing you vary, Y axis is the result
So X is noise, Y is performance
Could be a nice finish for some builds
ooo
replace the fan fins with sharp alum blades and it can shower your components with blood from fingers !
razor blade fin fans when?
I like the noctua redux. They're grey, reasonably priced, and they move air.
My pc doesn't even have a window.
define "reasonably"
(my metric is TL-C12C or P12)
iβll stick with the tl-c12c
they fit the build and arenβt too expensive
only downside is they only come in 3 packs
Hey Baldur, so far no crashes π
these apparently push a good deal of air for lower noise .... (140mm too big in your need?) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCKWF2X/
ARCTIC offers innovative solutions incessantly - changing impossible user requirements into new. Always focused on our customers, ARCTIC is devoted to deliver excellence through a strong dedication and a high sense of commitment. In light of the ever-changing consumer landscapes, we aspire to con...
5 for $40 is decent price... and ive been happy with Arctic
sorta finalized cyberpunk watercooled build
https://pcpartpicker.com/user/irohlikestea/saved/8XC7wP
only like 1.2k in mostly aesthetic things
but it'll look awesome when it's done
decided to get the UV strip light, then only rarely turn it on
like for if i want a picture or to show it to someone, or if i just want to stare at it for a minute
nvm had to fix something
added the mini monitor for inside the case
pushed me just over 3k
it'll look amazing tho
i need pc building sim 2 so i can mock this up
π I missed the delivery on my gpu
signature required for a gpu?
Apparently that's how the seller shipped it lol
is your gpu a controlled substance?
No clue
The ups myChoice thing says it is
Why?
Why would you do that?
I suppose it's a good way to keep somebody from stealing it off a porch or something
ig
if it's expensive enough, they might do that
if I sold it to you, I'd do the same thing.
I calculated a typical watercooling pump is 30-50 Watt
roughly 5A at 12V
LRA (locked rotor or starting current) will probably be 10-15A depending on the driver for the brushless motor. You shouldn't really have to worry about that as much. but if you're using a 30 watt motor, I would plan for a driver that'll handle at least 125%
a water pump is usually between 5-15W, but the 4-10 fans will add to that. all depending on model (and load)
I may have overestimated the flow rate which is great
because it means I can make it smaller
also it's not a problem because my design is very comfortable at low speeds
Stole this from #satisfactory-memes
Anyone of you know what AI tool is used to generate these "looks like something else" pics?
Not bad
Testing max bandwidth of my ethernet cables in my home
Can't be higher because the switch/router/other network equipment are only 1 Gbit/s
I think this is the first time I've seen windows time sync actually work
Im not sure if i want to get a sabrent rocket 4 plus 8TB or not.
probably super expensive
$1k but i can afford it
probably not worth it
some 2TB ~200$ are already almost saturating PCIe
So technically speaking it's not worth more than $750
I have a small form factor build so im limited on space.
pretty sure the price difference for an additional NVMe slot is smaller than that for 1x8TB instead of 2x4TB
Go buy your 1k ssd lmao
One thing i didnt think of tho when i made my MiniITX build was that i wouldnβt be able to fit the HTC wireless adapter so i cant get that
Next build will be MircoATX if i can find proper parts
thinking of getting another 360 rad to replace my top mounted 280
Can you afford it?
yes?
Then do it.
that's the worst reason
The pc must grow
anyways
Whenever i talk about affording something, i mean after like all bills and necessities are taking into account
reasons:
I can use more 120 fans (idk if alphacool plans to do 140 stealth fans)
this mobo IO thingy is blocking access to the terminal of the 280 if I mount it with them facing backwards
O11 dynamic?
Pour water into your shoes - it's quick, it's easy and it's free.
Already did that. Beat you to it
then go the next step up and pee into your shoes
Same reasons apply - it's quick, it's easy and it's free
Im dehydrated.
shouldn't have poured the water into the shoes then
Gotta go. About to take off on my flight.
man some people forget that this is the tech-talk channel of the satisfactory discord server
piss into your water cooling reservoir
it's quick, it's easy and it's free
Yeah. Do it
Seems that tRTP 12, tRRD_L 6, tRRD_S 4, tWTR_L 16, tWTR_S 4, tRDRD_Scl 4, tRDRD_Sc 1, tRDRD_Sd 6, tWRWR_Scl 1, tWRWR_Sc 1, tWRWR_Sd 6 is best I can do.
_Dd:s don't matter as I only have one DIMM per channel.
Still need to test tWRRD and tRDWR.
Others seem to be now at minimums.
But need to do LOT of testing still to confirm.
And haven't done anywhere near full regression tests yet...
And could of course test if odd timing would work for lot of these.
Just tested even ones and 1.
So for example with tRDRD_SCL, 4 workes, 2 didn't, haven't tested 3.
Old but gold, and still completely relevant even to DDR5.
https://www.anandtech.com/show/3851/everything-you-always-wanted-to-know-about-sdram-memory-but-were-afraid-to-ask
ty
Was linked near the top of that reddit post I linked yesterday(?).
Or few days ago.
But doesn't help in RAM OC much, just helps understanding what affects what.
that's the same reddit post
Yes
Then there is the Buildzoids video series of ramblings about the same things.
What DDR4 timings do playlist, hours of Buildzoid rambling:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLpS0n7xxSadUJE1fEuWfEMGvmMsVYGAbA
howfast does it take you to fully setup a new computer (after build) to where its all ready and done to use
Normally right away.
In this case, months?
Because I'm having hobby moment.
π hobby moment
What I'm right now doing is not sane.
But it is fun project.
well, when is fun ever sane
And the computer isn't even built yet.
For longest time it was MB on table form.
Currently it is in a case, but wrong case.
Because the computer I'm writing right now is in the right case still.
"least its in a case" π
Then to try tWRRD 1, shouldn't boot.
I had to manually tune my ram to 3600Mhz. Like an idiot, i bought intel tuned ram instead of amd tuned ram
Doesn't really matter much.
Because the XMP is what the RAM can do, not what YOUR memory controller can do.
Even if you had Intel CPU.
XMP only contains voltage, primary timings and refresh rate settings, and those don't really differ between AMD and Intel.
Well i couldnt just click a button and its all set
Didn't work with that? Or didn't find how to do that?
Basically all AMD MB:s support XMP.
Asus ones just call it DOCP.
On Asus AMD MBs
Might have to look one more time in the bios when i get back home today
I have an ASUS ROB Strix B650E-I gaming wifi and a Ryzen 5 7600X with 2x32GB of ram.
3600MHz?
I don't think that is right for AM5, and neither would be 7200MT/s probably.
Meant to say 5600. My bad.
G.Skill Ripjaws s5 series for the ram
D.O.C.P. in EZ Mode on left, above fans.
Ai Overclock Tuner in Ai Tweaker, first option, should have XMP as option, or might be named as DOCP I and DOCP II.
XMP is Intel trademark and Asus doesn't want to use it in their AMD boards, and just uses that DOCP name instead.
Both control the same option.
Just one of the few that are also on the EZ Mode screen.
I will have to check it out then
And now wondering if I would need to have had tWRRD higher when trying to tune others down...
Need to test later.
How do you test ram stability?
Memtest86 mostly at this stage.
Some y-cuncher and linpack so far.
Need to do much more comprehensive testing later with more programs.
Whats the amount of different in doing those timings? Any meaningful increase or is it just for overclocking scores or βcuz i canβ type thing?
At this stage, because I can.
For the average person, is it best to just set DOCP and forget?
If you have Hynix chips around the 6000-6400MT/s, then setting the buildzoid secondaries and tertiaries can give some boost.
I'm just currently seeing which I can get even lower than that with my specific setup.
I doubt im using hynix.
Some of the secondaries and tertiaries give large boosts compared to auto.
I'm just taking that tuning to insane level.
I could probably do it but im a novice at that stuff
No matter what RAM, just that getting "ready made" sets isn't that common.
This is what i have for ram
https://a.co/d/8OqAy8r
Ripjaws S5 is a high-performance DDR5 memory tailor-made for the latest Intel CoreTM processor platform. Using only best-in-class, hand-screened memory ICs that passed G.SKILL rigorous performance tests, each Ripjaws S5 memory kit strikes the perfect balance between performance, compatibility, an...