LED Strip for smart home automation via ZigBee

[green creek]

Is there any good strip?

https://www.ikea.com/de/de/p/ormanaes-lichtleiste-led-smart-kabellos-dimmbar-farb-und-weissspektrum-40497395/

How about these?

[upper mauve]

How comfortable are you with a tiny teeny bit of 'DIY'?

https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/ethernet-wled-esp32-address-and-pwm-strip-controller
and
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32476317187.html

I did my doorframe for a fraction of what something premade would've costed, and it's addressable 🤯

[green creek]

Yea sure

But do I need a external power supply?

[upper mauve]

You do!
You'll need to grab the same voltage as the strips

Here is a very good video on the topic:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QnvircC22hU

[green creek]

But nothing about the power supply right?

[green creek]

This?

[green creek]

?

[upper mauve]

Power supply is required yes. I personally have 12V strips, IIRC, and I use a basic 12 volts @ 10amps PSU

It goes to the controller, and the controllers connects to the leds

[green creek]

Which one do you use?

[green creek]

And which controller?

[upper mauve]

This one

But really, any WLED from athom with an ESP32 is good asl ong as it does addressable

https://www.athom.tech/blank-1/wled-esp32-music-addressable-led-strip-controller

This one is a tad cheaper as it doesn't have an ethernet

[neat kettle]

Just to add I would also recommend a WLED based controller (https://quinled.info/), however, these are WiFi based and not Zigbee - I am not aware of any zigbee based WLED controllers.

You will be able to find zigbee based LED controllers, but these will all be non-addressable - you will only be able to change color / brightness across the whole strip and not per LED (or zone) within the strip.

[green creek]

So

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EHYU1NQ

These controllers

These strips
https://a.aliexpress.com/_ExeqoTQ

Plus these power supply
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EH99GTq

[upper mauve]

Don't get the PSU there tho

Go to a hardware store, IRL.

Cheap PSUs can catch fire 😛

The rest is fine on Ali

(leds go at 5/12/24V, so no real fire risk, but a PSU pulls 120/240V in and has to downstep it)

Also. I personally use 12V strips

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008851822390.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.5303Dcc1Dcc1aZ&algo_pvid=abc85df1-2fd9-47a8-95d2-b2aa0d697755&algo_exp_id=abc85df1-2fd9-47a8-95d2-b2aa0d697755-0&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"2259"%2C"eval"%3A"1"%2C"fromPage"%3A"search"}&pdp_npi=6%40dis!CAD!77.23!56.38!!!54.33!39.66!%40210328d417751382993293994ecf6e!12000046945069974!sea!CA!0!ABX!1!0!n_tag%3A-29910%3Bd%3A7da4a75b%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&curPageLogUid=bNXqOD19Knqi&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A|x_object_id%3A1005008851822390|_p_origin_prod%3A

As they experience less power drop over distance

[neat kettle]

Those would work, although if you are planning on running fairly long strips I would consider other options. The key here is to calculate the power requirement for the length of LED's you want to run. If you are running anything over 10m then you should probably look to custom build. Bear in mind that with WLED when it shows the strip as off it may still be drawing power and the only way to mitigate is to add a relay.

Those PSU's should be fine as they do look like they are official 'Mean well' - Just be aware that those are all 100w so keep your strip length to a max of 5m. Normally RGB / Addressable LED's use 18w per meter and if we keep the PSU consumption at 80% of MAX it means you should not exceed 4.4m

[green creek]

That is a meanwell not cheap

[green creek]

4 Meter

Wait

You are right

[neat kettle]

Where is the 4 meter going? Let's try to decide Pixel Density first as a short run may benefit from a higher pixel density.

[green creek]

I could also run 12 meter so I do not have to use 2 psu and 2 controller

It should run across this ceiling on both sides

And the ceiling is 4 meters long and 4 meters wide

I thought about going with 2 4 Meter

But then I have to use two psu

[neat kettle]

you could do much longer and run two rectangles (basically around each sloped part).

[green creek]

It would be nice to have 12 meter on one strip

[green creek]

Yeah

How much would that cost?

Is there such a long led strip available?

I do not want to spend more than 130 euros

Better less

Thank you for your helpful information already

[neat kettle]

I would get a QuinLED DigQuad (4 outputs but you will only use two) - each rectangle a uses 1 channel. This should be placed on the wall where the plastic is blocking the view (should mean you are very close to the start and end of each strip.

You would feed power to the start and end of each strip - I would also inject power at the opposite end to the controller since the cables can run neatly along the place where the light fitting currently is.

Full requirements:

1 x QuinLED Dig Quad
1 x Meanwell LRS-350-24
7 x 5m 24v RGBCW COB

You should add:
1 x 5v Relay (used to switch off power on main PSU)
1 x 5v PSU 2A (10w PSU) - used to power QuinLED

I'm only specifying a 350w PSU as you will not run 100% brightness and hence you can limit the power draw in WLED. The QuinLED DigQuad has several power outputs that are all fused independently. Run the start and end of each rectangle from separate connections with 5A fuses. Use a 10A fuse for the middle injection.

[green creek]

Wow amazing

How much would that cost?

And which plastic do you mean to block the view?

[neat kettle]

where are you located (country)?

The controller could be placed in a box where the slope meets (in your photo it is obscured by the plastic sheet).

[green creek]

Germany

[neat kettle]

A Meanwell LRS-600-N2 is £62.24 on Amazon UK - this should allow full power
The LRS-350-N2 is £38.48

[green creek]

There you mean?

[neat kettle]

yup

[green creek]

So like behind the middle part right?

[neat kettle]

Yes, in the middle part -

[green creek]

And I would also like to get a aluminium diffuser

Like this

[neat kettle]

That is sensible as it helps with the heat given off by LED strips - but does add a bit to the costs.

Thie DigQuad is $39.50 - From Allnet - you will have to pay shipping and taxes on top - I think it would total about 60 euro

[green creek]

Can't I use something cheaper?

This?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Eu5d7uc

[neat kettle]

You could, but be aware that they won't be properly fused for long lengths

What I would suggest, is look at a decent controller and PSU. install LED strips running each side of the light fitting, should mean you only need 8m but run power at both end. You can add more LED's after and you will already have the start, middle power wired.

I would recommend BTF Lighting FCOB SPI RGBW IC LED WS2814 10mm DC24V

Those strips are about 30 euros for 5m

If you want to try and save a bit more, look on Alibaba for the LED strips - not aliexpress enquire as though you are business and making a sample order

You could always make your own controller - an ESP8266 would probably be enough since the COB strips are zoned (each 10 or 12cm is considered a single LED by WLED). However, I would still use an ESP32 as cheap enough. You just have to worry about the power draw on the LED strips and ensuring safety there - easy to do with some inline fuses.

Placing the controller where I suggest means it would be very close to the leds so you would not need to worry about data corruption on the data line (ie. no need for additional resistance). Most strips will work on the 3.3v that an ESP32 or ESP8266 would provide and I would suggest you try it first, if it doesn't work then you need to add a chip to boost this to 5v. Just make sure you get an ESP8266 o ESP32 development board since those will include a 5v input (takes that and turns it down to 3.3v that the actual chip uses).

[green creek]

So eap8266 and the strip and a power supply?

And how much would that cost?

ESP32 dev board: ~€3-4
Level shifter (SN74HCT125): ~€1
Inline fuses + holders: ~€2-3
Meanwell LRS-350-24: ~€22
2× 5m RGBCCT COB strip: ~€18
5V relay + 5V PSU: ~€5
Wire, connectors etc.: ~€5

Like this?

[green creek]

?

[upper mauve]

Are you able to solder?

If not, I would get a pre-made controler for 15euros and call it a day

If so, an ESP32 works, i've done it. But it's definitely less 'clean' as far as the installation goes

Also, a 5volt PSU that cost 5euros/9$ is not something I would trust

Again, you're downstepping 240V to 5V, put some money to be sure it doesn't catch fire

(I get that USB also is 5V, but it doesn't pull nowhere the same amperage)

[green creek]

Yes

So which PSU?

I need a list to buy 😅

aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-omron-ssr-relay-5v.html

aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-meanwell-irm-10-5.html

1x GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED 4ch — ~€15
1x MeanWell LRS-350-24 — ~€25
1x MeanWell IRM-10-5 (5V standby PSU) — ~€10
1x Omron/Finder relay module (5V) — ~€6
7x 5m WS2811 24V RGB COB (BTF-LIGHTING) — ~€70
Inline fuses, wire, connectors — ~€8

[hasty crow]

dont do gledopto!! read wled channels. Go athom or quinled dig uno, the one i recommended a few months ago 😉

[green creek]

Okay

Why no gledopto?

[hasty crow]

no good, as said, read wled discord, quinled discord etc. no one will recomment one of the gledoptos

[green creek]

https://shop.allnetchina.cn/products/quinled-dig-quad-v3-digital-led-controller-new-improved-release

This one?

And which PSU?

[hasty crow]

meanwell, they have with fan and without fan. Do a powercalculation on the quinled discord server

and also wire gauge check from there.

[green creek]

Okay well

[green creek]

One PSU and one lrs one irm and then the relay?

I do not get it what I have to get 2 psu and a relay?

QuinLED Dig-Quad v3 — ~€45
MeanWell LRS-150-24 — ~€18
2x 5m WS2811 24V RGB COB (BTF-LIGHTING) — ~€40
MeanWell IRM-10-5 (5V standby) — ~€10
Relay module — ~€6
Wire, connectors, fuses — ~€8
Total: ~€137

That is how I would buy it

[green creek]

https://wled-calculator.github.io/

[green creek]

https://youtu.be/7PJnEO-5ekY

[neat kettle]

Just to be clear, the only reason for a relay is to switch of the power supply to the LED strip as WLED doesn't actually do this (instead it sets each pixel to be 0 brightness). This means that the strip is still drawing power. In short runs this is negligible and hence not worth doing, but for longer runs their is some saving to be had.

When you use a relay, you would still need to Power the WLED controller, hence the addition of a smaller PSU.

Using the numbers you have posted recently, I would estimate the 'parasitic' draw at about 3.5w - This may well be acceptable to you in which case you can forego the smaller PSU and Relay. For some additional info, the ESP chip will draw about 1w and if you use a level shifter that might add 0.5w

As I said earlier, most off the LED strips seem to work OK on 3.3v data lines although the specification does say 5v - so if you are custom building you could try without a level shifter first, if you have flickering or other data issues then you add the level shifter.

Finally, be aware that ESP's run at 3.3v although most development boards have a 5v input. If you have a PSU that is greater than 5v you will need to step this down using a buck converter.

Controllers like the DigQuad have all the additional circuitry to allow larger voltage inputs and most provide some additional protection for the power out lines (on the DigQuad you have several fused outputs)

[green creek]

Thank you

I wanted to buy it like this

And I have a ZigBee controller which should be able to controll the strips power

And I have it behind a wall switch

@neat kettle is that in my list enough?

[drowsy cypress]

For small runs (100 LEDs) 5V is just barely enough. Under my kitchen cabinets I have an Apple 5V/2A adapter. It’s just barely enough. If I was doing it again I’d go with 12V. I love those ready to run boxes. No sense making it yourself when they are cheap and work well. I like addressable strips, but it’s a gimmick in a kitchen really. If I was sensible I’d just have Zigbee but WLED is more fun. I measured the draw on an off WLED box (I have a habit of doing this!) and wasn’t worried about the draw but don’t have a number handy unfortunately. Sorry I have no proper help.

[green creek]

It is 24v

[drowsy cypress]

The one thing I’d be anxious of is those PSUs. I imagine some are not going to be tested for local safety compliance, which is another reason I stuck to 5V. But you have a Zigbee plug turning the PSU on and off?

[green creek]

Yes

[neat kettle]

Yes, that list is enough - except for some wires to connect things together. You should be able to use your local mains cable for the power to the PSU and from PSU to QuinLED. You might need to extend the LED strip wires a bit - I would see if you can message the seller as they may put an extra connector lead in for you (although you could probably just take it of the end of the strip you are not using).

[neat kettle]

Mean Well are very reputable.

[green creek]

How long is the connector cable?

It needs to be 2 m

[neat kettle]

for the mains, depends on where you are getting the source to the PSU. I've recommended mounting the PSU and a controller in a box close to where the strips are, so you'll need very little to go from PSU to DigQuad.

The LED strips will come with pre-soldered connectors - depending on the strip these would be 3 or 4 wires. I would try to leave the connectors on although if the strip is close enough (I suspect it will be) you can either cut it off or if possible pull the pins from the connector and just screw the pins straight into the DigQuad.

The LED strips will have JST connectors

https://www.aliexpress.com/p/tesla-landing/index.html?UTABTest=aliabtest128998_32160&src=bing&albch=shopping&acnt=135105396&albcp=555612560&albag=1300723490765877&slnk=&trgt=pla-2333094955078716&plac=&crea=81295279069319&netw=o&device=c&mtctp=e&utm_source=Bing&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=PA_Bing_GB_PMAX_硬件_MAXV_AESupply_251028&utm_content=AssetGroup_102125_153753&utm_term=jst led connector&msclkid=aa61eda5844d15fc1217846a3bca10cc&aff_fcid=c88213525f5f4d8d91daeb8d50f5d062-1775222695452-08572-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=c88213525f5f4d8d91daeb8d50f5d062-1775222695452-08572-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=eeae6135410a4f2ba5778d27afdd2223&scenario=c_ppc_item_bridge&productId=1005005913797479&_immersiveMode=true&withMainCard=true&OLP=1123114608_f_group1&o_s_id=1123114608

[green creek]

Someone said jst is not goid

Good

[neat kettle]

They will be fine as they will be factory soldered to the strip - I have never had an issue with them.

It is the other connectors that join two strips together by just clamping down which are totally rubbish.

[green creek]

So I need these cable too?

Or how can I connect them

The psu could be directly next to the strip but I guess better for it to be a bit away

[neat kettle]

The strip will have those pre-soldered - about 15cm of cable, so hopefully you can put the controller very close. I personally think putting the controller and psu in a box on the wall where you are starting the strips will be fine

[green creek]

Can I extend the wiring?

The led strip should be on these sides

And in the middle the psu

[neat kettle]

Yes, you can extend the wiring - the DigQuad has a few dip switches underneath the ESP chip which will change the resistance and allow the data signal to travel further.

That will be fine, but you will need to extend the cables from the LED strip to the controller

Looking at that I would probably just use the same mains cable for the LED strip extension. You could use a WAGO or similar to join the extension to the cable that comes pre-soldered so that you don't need to mess around doing the soldering yourselve.

[green creek]

So just cut the jst connector right?

[neat kettle]

yup, cut it so that the wires are exposed, stick each on in a WAGO along with the corresponding wire from the Controller. So, to complete your order you'll need roughly 4 meters of cable to go from LED strip to controller (is you have 4 wire strips, you connect the data in to the controller and ground the backup data). As you will have two strips you will need 6 WAGOS

[green creek]

Nice!

[neat kettle]

yes, although I it won't be as nice as that and probably look likes these

[green creek]

But I guess it would be okay

Cause the cable is not visible

I have Wago and Cable already

[neat kettle]

yes, you really just need to expose the wire to make the connection

[green creek]

I would like to make my own presence detector too

[green creek]

Jup

But I do not need the 5v Psu anymore right

And if I turn down the light therefore I would need something extra to turn it off completely?

[neat kettle]

You don't - providing you don't mind the 'parasitic' voltage draw of the LED's always being on but not visible.

[green creek]

But if I would like to shut them off completely?

[neat kettle]

WLED does have an ON/OFF and the strip will look as though it is off (ie. no light), but it will still draw some power - think of it like a TV in standby mode

[green creek]

This to shut down completely?

[neat kettle]

No, as that will take WLED off the network and Home Assistant might start to complain about the unreachable device

I would say leave it out for now as I don't think it would be too hard to add later if you feel you need to.

[green creek]

Why?

It only sends the signal to turn out

It has detached relay mode

It does not turn power off completely

Oh well

😂

Then there would still be the problem with parasitic voltages

[neat kettle]

Yes, but I think yours will be fairly negligible about 3w

I have 120m of LED's throughout my flat and calculated the 'parasitic' voltage at 28.8w - basically like leaving 2 or 3 light light bulbs on all the time.

[green creek]

Mhh

What would I need to stop that

?

[green creek]

?

@neat kettle what do I have to add

Is 1 meter profile enough?

[neat kettle]

For profile, you need to have the same length as the amount of strip you intend to use.

Also, check the depth as whilst the profile you listed above is wide enough I'm not if it will be deep enough.

[neat kettle]

those will be big enough

[green creek]

Is 2 meter better then 1 meter?

[neat kettle]

yes, less joins

[green creek]

And what do I have to buy if I want that they do not have parasitic voltage?

How is that called I have forgotten

[neat kettle]

You will need a relay which you connect to the controller and feed the live wire from the mains through to the input of the PSU. You will also need a second power source to ensure the WLED controller is always on (that uses about 1w)

See here for details:

https://quinled.info/quinled-dig-quad-using-a-power-supply-relay/

[green creek]

Do I need these wire end ferrules too?

[green creek]

Just any relay would work right if it has the right voltage?

[neat kettle]

I do recommend you use ferrules but you could do bare wire into those screw terminals

Here, for details on Relay https://quinled.info/relay-purchasing-guide/

look for 10A 250V AC and ensure it has an optocoupler - most will be 3.3v trigger compliant

[green creek]

Wow amazing thank you

Is AliExpress reliable?

[neat kettle]

I've only ever had one issue with AliExpress - and that was for LED strips. Having waited 3 weeks the supplier cancelled the order. I ordered from someone else and received them reasonably promptly.

I actually saved money as the second supplier was cheaper and still have some of the credit in my account

[green creek]

I mean for the relay

[neat kettle]

yes, and the Songle seems to be a popular brand

[green creek]

This one has the octocpoupler

Right

24v right?

250v 🤔

Can't find that

[neat kettle]

no, look for 10a 250v - you are going to put a mains wire through it

[neat kettle]

you won't need anywhere near 10 amps, but that is what most of the relays are rated for

[green creek]

This should be it?

250v

What should be the output?

[neat kettle]

yes, that should be fine. The Songle you posted in the first image would also be fine as that is 30amp 250volt

[green creek]

5v 9 or 12m

[neat kettle]

the trigger should be 'low level' which would be 3.3v

[green creek]

That doesn't have that

[neat kettle]

sorry , that one doesn't look like it has optocoupler

[green creek]

So just the first one?

It has 5v

Still good?

[neat kettle]

Look for this: Relay Module 1 Channel 5V 12V 24V Board Shield With Optocoupler Isolation Support High and Low Level Trigger for Arduino

[green creek]

Yeah lol nearly the same I guees😂

[neat kettle]

you want the one that says 5VDC

[green creek]

I thought 3.3volt

[neat kettle]

even better if it says 3.3

[green creek]

This one should?

[neat kettle]

yes

[green creek]

So

These 3

200 Euros 🫣 🫣 🫣 🫣 🫣

Maybe I go for the 1 meter still

What would you say

😅

[neat kettle]

you could save 6 euro's by not gettiing the wire stripper and just use your teeth 😋

[green creek]

😂

I have one but I literally cut my hand

Like this

😭

[neat kettle]

I would suggest you go for the SPI RGBW strip instead of the RGB one you have chosen - you get the extra white channel so a better white (upto you whether it is cool, neutral or warm). It will add a tiny bit to the cost.

[green creek]

Oh

Yes

I have spi RGBW

?

[neat kettle]

that shows RGB

should say RGBW

[green creek]

Where do I have to select that

[neat kettle]

it will be a different product on the ali-express site search 'btf-lighting fcob spi rgbw ws2814'

[neat kettle]

I've seen the dimensions are 12mm wide by 3.4mm high. So you should be able to find smaller aluminium channels which should be cheaper.

[green creek]

Ah here

[green creek]

Yeah not so high

But I do not find any

Wow the others are even more expensive

[neat kettle]

look on amazon - you should find a 6 pack of 1m long 12mm wide profiles for about 30 euro's

[green creek]

1 meter sure but not 2 meter

1 meter on AliExpress 20 meter 40 Euro

[neat kettle]

just need to be a bit more careful with installing to try and get them to sit tight next to each other. One trick is to cut one of the covers in half and start off with that so that you are going over the join in the middle of a cover.

[green creek]

Ah nice

So 1 meter would also work?

Plus the quinled dig quad

Right?

@neat kettle 🙏

[neat kettle]

yes, 1m will work - you just need to try and get them as tight together as possible

[green creek]

So that is it?

Everything I need

[green creek]

@neat kettle

Can you have the final look

😂

[green creek]

Bumb

Do you think I have to try WiFi first or directly buy a outdoor Lan cable?

[green creek]

🤔

[green creek]

I will buy it as it is

I will see 🙈

[green creek]

Welp

[neat kettle]

The WiFi should be fine, but it is always better to wire devices.

If you have a POE switch, you can use a POE splitter to power the ESP.

[green creek]

Okay

I will get a PoE switch too

[green creek]

How hard is it to build my own controller? @neat kettle

[neat kettle]

It's not hard at all if you just look at basic functionality. It can be as simple as a single ESP8266 or ESP32 chip and 3 wires.

For a very basic tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exAWzMfmwQ8

Note that in the video a 5v strip is used along with a Dev based ESP device. Due to the ESP being a development board it comes with a 5v input (the ESP chip actually uses 3.3v). If you have 12v or 24v strips, you need to power those separately, sending data from the ESP chip and ensuring the grounds are connected.

If you are doing this for a permanent install, you should add fuses to the power lines feeding the LED strips. If you are connecting at the start or end of the strip then the power draw is about 4amps, so using a 5 amp fuse is normal. If you are feeding in the middle then the power draw can be 8amps and hence a 10 amp fuse is normally used.

Depending on the strips you get, you may need level shifter since the output voltage of the ESP is 3.3v and the strip normally wants 5v for the data line (most strips seem to work at 3.3v now).

[green creek]

Thank you I have ordered a lot of things on AliExpress

That video you send me is very basic without fuses etc

This is the way I have it

[past hazel]

We’d like to take a moment to explain. In the early days, our product did have some shortcomings, but we’ve worked hard to improve it since then. We invite you to experience our newest controller.
Some of the issues reported were also related to our sales volume. Since there weren’t many suppliers focused on WLED projects at the time, we had a relatively large number of customers. This meant that more people encountered problems in absolute terms, though the proportion was not unusually high. We want to be clear—we’re not making excuses.
Listening to our users has always been important to us, and we continue to refine our products based on feedback. All products come with a 2-year warranty for your peace of mind.

We know that our early problems hurt many of you and badly damaged our reputation in this community. For that, we are truly sorry. Despite this, we humbly ask for a chance to make things right and show you how we've improved.

[past hazel]

We've made a lot of improvements to our products, and they all come with a 2-year warranty for your peace of mind. Feel free to try out the latest versions.

[green creek]

This one with a relay? Is this also available for quad led?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJ51yk0

[hasty crow]

Yes you are improving, yet a mile away from 100% reliable. 😉 @past hazel

[hasty crow]

But feel free to send me that newer stuff for testing.. dm me;)

[neat kettle]

@green creek I just noticed the Dig-Next-2 has been released https://quinled.info/dig-next-2/

Using this you would just need LED Strip and Power Supply.

@past hazel I haven't tried your WLED products as I read a lot of negative reviews / posts, however, if you are willing to send me one I'll happily test it and see if I change my mind about recommending QuinLED products.

[green creek]

And quad?

[green creek]

Doesn't have Lan

https://nl.quinled.shop/Huis-en-kantoor/Quinled-LED-verlichting/Dig-Next-2/QUINLED/QUINLED-Dig-Next-2-LED-Controller-QLD-NXT2-p_41545.html

[hasty crow]

chances are few.. 🙂

[neat kettle]

I agree, even though I have bought products from them directly

[green creek]

is a quad dig next coming?

[hasty crow]

https://discord.gg/67pFGkFC best to ask here in Quindor's server...

he makes them, so..

[green creek]

Nearly got everything

Except the led strip and the power supply

[green creek]

I need to assemble everything

[hasty crow]

good luck and work safe !!

check before mounting in place..

[green creek]

thank you

i will have a lot of wuestions

[green creek]

Hi

I have everything now

But I do not know how I should connect everything together @neat kettle

[green creek]

Any ideas?

[hasty crow]

have you done any research by yourself??? We all are glad to help, but this seems to be a "please do it for me" request. Done reading on the wled/quindor server???

That is a reason why i recommended ready to go solutions a while ago 🙂

[hasty crow]

just stick to the diagram and the correct wire gauges. Make sure you put fuses before the strip! Run ground next to data all the way. Use a level shifter (booster) Mount everything on your floor first, easier to work and adapt. Use correct image for controller.

And take a close look at the pinouts of your controller and software for the data output(s)

The Quinled Dig Uno has all the stuff build-in, fuses, level shifter etc.. that was my recommendation at first in your previous post(s)

if you have a soldering iron, use it instead of the pinboard.

and a multmeter is useful

[green creek]

I have a soldering iron as well as a multimeter

[green creek]

It seems like it yes but not really

[neat kettle]

Firstly, connect the ESP32 to computer and install WLED (https://install.wled.me/). Your ESP32 has an ethernet port, so I would suggest using the ethernet build if you plan on connecting via ethernet. WLED should default to it's built-in wireless AP if no network is found. Once installed, check that you can access it.

I'd then start by laying it out. You will have ESP32 connecting to breadboard and only data pin coming out of breadboard to LED strip. I noticed that the ESP32 has ethernet, but it doesn't look like a POE board, so you will need something to power it.

Next, connect Meanwell PSU to led strip ensuring you put the fuse inline on the positive. Connect one of the output -v from the meanwell psu to the ground on the breadboard (this allows data output to be on same ground).

Now check all the wiring

Lastly connect the PSU to mains (L/N/E) - ensure the mains is turned off when connecting. Check all wiring one more time. Power up the Meanwell and the ESP32 board.

[green creek]

But I need to connect all the fuses etc?

[restive oriole]

350 posts in and all I keep asking is: why the heck didn’t you buy an off the shelf solution?

[green creek]

Cause it is WAY more expensive

80 euros

[hasty crow]

YES OFCOURSE!!!

one way or the other, there will be light at some point..

fuses will help against unwanted light effects such as sparks, flames etc.

or flashing blue lights from fire department.

[green creek]

🫣