#2 gang Shelly switch, 1 bulb
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I believe you can, I think you can set each switch input to its own settings separately.
Ah cool, I'll cancel my order for 1PM mini and go for the 2PM. I'll change my 1 gang switches to 2 gang and use the second button to change colour temperature. Extra physical controls ❤️
Do you know if there is any way to have more than 2 switches with a single Shelly? It would be cool to have 1 for load status, 1 for colour, and 1 for brightness
I think they only do Shellys supporting up to 2 switches though?
the "shelly i4" can take 4 switch inputs but it doesn't have any relays. but if your light is powered on all the time and just controlled by network then you don't need a relay anyway.
you could also get a wall switch with buttons you can set to whatever and put it on the wall next to the normal switch (or 3d print an adaptor and put it over the top of the normal switch or something) shelly make this one - https://www.shelly.com/products/shelly-blu-wall-switch-4-stand-alone-bundle
most shelly devices can also act as a bluetooth proxy so even if you dont have a BT setup you can just use whatever relay device you have as a BT proxy to get signals from the buttons.
That one is Wi-Fi? I really don't want to add a bunch of Wi-Fi switches
That looks cool, but I don't want to add battery-powered switches. I have enough faff replacing batteries as it is. I want to keep the light switches hardwired
My intention is to get switch statuses from HA. This is effectively the same as what you are describing here?
yeah, same as adding a shelly relay on wifi. just instead of a switch input and a relay output it has 4 switch inputs that you can read from HA.
yeah thats fair, although for ble stuff tends to last 2 years or something. depending on use obviously.
was referring to if you get the ble buttons. you can relay connection through a shelly relay if you don't already have a bluetooth setup.
I'll be using Zigbee with the relays. I don't want to clutter up my Wi-Fi network with too many IoT devices.
It seems the product you linked is Wi-Fi only, so that's no good unfortunately.
2 years is good in isolation, but when you have 50 different devices, it's still annoying
People make their smart homes too high maintenance.
Ooooo I've just found 'retractive switches'
yeah they haven't released the i4 gen4 version yet. but it will come in the future.
I haven't used any shellys in zigbee mode yet. i am not sure on how the detached mode is set up with them. i am sure its a thing but i just havent played with it yet. (i have some gen4 stuff coming though but its with otherstuff which is on backorder so waiting)
yeah that is a perfectly reasonable stance to take.
So I could buy this, use a single-press for turning the bulb on/off and a long-press for another action such as changing colour temp\
What do you think is most sensible for multi-actions? Either getting a 1PM mini with a retractable switch, or a 2PM and 2-gang switch?
The only battery-powered devices we have so far are our Tado X radiator valves, and this alone is creating enough bother with changing batteries. I want to get as few additional battery-powered devices as I can.
yeah, if the button mode of the shellt input supports multiple events. again i havent tried it
probably more personal preference i guess
Seems to, according to this video 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ5bRg8yJsU&t=468s
In this video we'll take a look at my solution for controlling smart bulbs with normal light switches! No more messing around with smart remotes and light switches that need to be kept switched on - with this solution your regular light switches can control the smart bulbs and even trigger scenes while automatically falling back to working like...
2-gangs might be more confusing for users/difficult to setup...
cool, i dont think i watched that one. but channel is great.
I wonder if I can get a retractable switch that's good enough quality for me. Maybe I need to go to the store and get a feel for it
Going from $1 plastic switches to $10 metal switches is incredible
there are many different ones. its a fairly normal thing. as long as you don't get the cheapest stuff its probably fine
My wife would not approve
project write up is here if interested - https://github.com/MichaelMKKelly/LocalDeck-Light-Switch-Mount
This one looks good, except the bell icon bothers me https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-nexus-metal-10a-1-gang-1-way-bell-push-switch-brushed-steel/742xg
Definitely interesting, but got a bit too much on my plate to get stuck into this
yeah, its down to preference. but it allows for various options. pressing it to get specific TTS reports is nice. also cos of the leeds for each buton can display states.
there's a huge amount of custom switches you could mess with and use. just gotta work out what works best for you.
Not seeing many options actually. I only found one that looked decent, but with an annoying bell icon
Something like THIS maybe?
Varilight XDSBP1S Brushed Steel Screwless 1 Gang 10A Retractive Decorative Switch Range: Varilight Brushed Steel Screwless Retractive Switch | XDSBP1S Retractive, push to make switch. For use with blinds, bells and applications where a momentary electric signal is required. Sleek, low profile screwless faceplate. Decorative brushed steel screwle...
screwfix will only carry so much misc stuff but if you hunt around there are loads of different things to fit any sort of decor
Looks good, but IDK about the quality of it. The feel of my quality switches feels good. It's a satisfying click, not a mushy press.
I found this, but IDK what to add it to. https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-nexus-metal-grid-20a-1-way-grid-retractive-switch-module-press-brushed-steel/851rf
Any way for me to try the Varilight switch before I buy?
omg the search is so responsive and good on this site https://www.builderdepot.co.uk
Builder Depot is one of UK’s leading Timber and Builders Merchant. Shop for Thousands of Building Products and Materials at incredible trade prices in store and online.
Literally instant
Varilight reputation seems good. I'm tempted to take a gamble and order it. Only thing I don't like is the screwless. I wonder if they do one with screws
perfect!
no idea, probably have to find a physical location that sells it
Or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Varilight-Single-Push-Retractive-Switch/dp/B0FD44F7KQ or https://www.amazon.co.uk/Varilight-Single-Centre-Off-Retractive-Switch/dp/B0FD43LSWQ
The Classic range is a contemporary take on a raised profile faceplate. The bevel-edge design is a timeless style, which will pair beautifully with any interior. Each plate is expertly manufactured in the UK to the highest standard. Stunning Brushed Steel continues to be a popular finish with int...
The Classic range is a contemporary take on a raised profile faceplate. The bevel-edge design is a timeless style, which will pair beautifully with any interior. Each plate is expertly manufactured in the UK to the highest standard. Brushed Steel offers unbeatable value for those seeking a beauti...
Have you used retractive switches at all? I'm wondering whether to go single push or single centre-off
if you go down to a screwfix at a time where its not busy and ask if you can look at a couple of things and feel them before buying they may help you out.
will depend how busy they are most likely. if you ask when they are queued out the door then you are gunna be told no.
They're usually pretty good at my local store
They don't have the Varilight retractive switches though.
not at home, i have been in places that have had them. its just a switch with a spring in it basically.
And the 'centre-off' ones seem to be rockers but also retractive
yeah, they are mostly designed for blinds and stuff. so you can raise/lower by holding.
I didn't know light-switch shopping would be so complicated
I tend to prefer basic stuff tbh but people want all manner of different things that work slightly differently in every finish and colour ever conceived of 😛
I want something basic and high quality that someone who doesn't know about my smart home can use, but I also like to have optional functionality for advanced functions.
And I like brushed steel
Don't like cheap plastic
I tend to try and have things automated so the point where I don't need to touch light switches.
then have a sliding cover to stop people messing with switches. but still able to slide and use if i need to.
That's going to add a lot of installation complexity.
My thinking right now is that a retractive switch makes on/off simple, and holding it down could switch colour temp
i very rarly have to touch a switch on ground floor of house now. only if i need the "big lights" on full
It must achieve a high wife approval score
Because of motion/presence sensors?
yeah i get this, family approval is important. i had to slowly build up to it.
yes
My goals:
- Stop myself/others accidentally turning off the lights where we have motion sensors
- Give us manual control in rooms I don't want to automate (mainly bedrooms)
What do you do for bedrooms?
Would you ever put the Shelly inside a power socket? Or do you just use them for lights?
the most automated one I use a switch for.
switch is "off vs automatic mode"
but in others i have zigbee button by the bed for light control as alternitive to switch.
no. you should not put them behind a socket. use a smartplug if you want to switch something on a plug.
Ah a switch to enable/disable automation? That's clever, I didn't think of that.
Why? I was thinking for power monitoring.
Smart plugs add a lot of bulk
basically yeah. i can switch it remotly too if i wanted.
So how did you configure it? Is your HA automation using the switch state as a condition when determining whether to run?
Gonna have to be slow and careful with my bedroom light automation. I don't want to piss off my wife.
if its switchable then you have to worry about someone plugging an inductive load into it and upsetting the relay. always assume somone will plug a induction motor device into it.
i think thats how its done but tbh i set it a long time ago.
put a shelly behind it and put a button next to the bed so she can switch it from bed. that will be a good first stepping stone.
Sounds like a plan
Got a lot of work to do...
Gotta run some cat6 too... making myself busy
So I have the 1PM mini gen4s coming from Amazon, they'll come on Friday.
I think I'll order https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-nexus-metal-1-module-modular-faceplate-brushed-steel/819xg and https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-nexus-metal-1-module-modular-faceplate-brushed-steel/819xg to my local store and show my wife so we can test the quality of it and decide if we want to install a few of them around the house
Or maybe this one instead of the Varilight
Decide with my wife which we like, then go install it
It's gonna be so nice, thank you @cedar verge
sounds like a plan.
Unrelated question, do you have redundancy for HA? How do your light automations function if HA is down?
I think it's possible to script the shellys so if the HA state hasn't changed after N seconds, they disable the load to the bulbs
no worries, good luck with the project 🙂
I just replaced around 40 non-smart downlights with these cans and installed Philips Hue bulbs. My wife loves it, just gotta make it smarter.
i don't, but in most cases stuff is set up so can revert to switches.
shelly does have a scripting system built into devices but i haven't really ever used it.
Guide here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ5bRg8yJsU&t=468s
He shows how to do normal load fallback if HA is down
In this video we'll take a look at my solution for controlling smart bulbs with normal light switches! No more messing around with smart remotes and light switches that need to be kept switched on - with this solution your regular light switches can control the smart bulbs and even trigger scenes while automatically falling back to working like...
I will follow it. I wouldn't want my bulbs to ever be stuck on!
ah cool, ill watch through it to look at that. I usually watch his stuff but i skippeed that one as for the most part i know what shellys can do and how to set them up.
I'm looking at this bulb, it looks pretty nice. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Hue-Ambiance-Lighting-Ceiling/dp/B0FH25P4HB?ie=UTF8&th=1
2900 lumens ❤️
to be fair, i have my HA backed up daily and have more than enough hardware to spin up a new server and restore a backup if worst case situation happened.
i could use high availability via proxmox but it seems overkill.
Yeah I guess there's a lot that can cause downtime. Faulty cables, faulty switch/router, faulty antenna, drive failure, PSU failure, or you're moving equipment or something.
It's one of the reasons I'm using Hue Bridge, to enable control even if HA is down
HA seems to control the bulbs just fine even though they're routed through the bridge
I'm currently testing 'MotionAware' but not finding it works all that well
yeah both direct and via bridge integrations are decent for hue stuff I hear. although i dont use any of it myself.
What bulbs/gear do you use?
yeah its a cool idea and works great in a lab setting but in reality its gunna be a bit hit and miss
Yeah getting way too many false positives / false negatives. Kinda regret buying the Hue Bridge Pro now.
a bit of a mix, some esphome/tasmota stuff from random places. a load are just basic bulbs though with just the shelly control.
its gunna be a bit like my room pressence using ble. a bunch of bluetooth proxies allow me to see where a device is "sort of" and therefore can track a specific person.
i have a couple of automations that trigger from something else and try to estabish who triggered it but its mostly gimmicky stuff
I like the high lumens / low wattage and cheap price of some of the non-smart bulbs, but I imagine they're a pain to change brightness when using smart switches
they can be but mostly i dont need to adjust brightness manually.
if i desperately need to do it then I can do it via voice too.
ewww voice control
I can't stand voice control and phone control
Physical buttons are soooooooo much nicer
yeah I don't use it that much but its an option as a fallback without getting a phone out.
I have a fully local voice stack
Always do local 👍
I mostly use the voice satellites for notifications/announcements.
for example since this was added, there has not been an "incident" 😛
So you use visual language models?
Do you use Frigate too?
This gives me a disgusting idea
not currently. the coffee machine state is gotten from smartplug power monitoring. i have messed with visual models a bit but not that much yet.
yes, for an outdoor camera that does some object detection on a coral tpu
Ooooooooooo you create alerts based on patterns on power load? That's smart!
I have some simple automations based on patterns of water flow
Same! What model are you using?
I feel like there are better options once you get to that to that many
just the basic frigate one, tbh my frigate is a bit outdated. i need to sort some stuff out. but it was on hold to be done as part of a bigger project which is now on hold due to ram pricing 🙁
Upgrade to YOLOv9 it's so much better https://fuzznotes.com/posts/frigate-mobiledet-to-yolov9/
yeah i have some state machine entities that can track dumb devices through stages based on power patterns.
Yeah god damn PC HW pricing. I wanted to upgrade my HDDs...
will bookmark it and have a look when i get theree.
Fairly easy to switch. You need the beta version of frigate, then you just copy the new model over. Detection accuracy is vastly improved on the Coral
I might switch from Coral at some point. It's a bit underpowered. Very power-efficient though. Trying to keep electricity bills down despite all this gadgetry...
i upgraded my storage array nearly a year ago now and i built a new desktop at end of september i think it was. just before the problems started. so i got fairly lucky on those fronts.
Same. Just wish I bought more
I was planning to upgrade my array further around this time
So glad I got all the RAM I need though
That being said, my qbittorrent is using over 50GB for some weird reason
i am working on moving a load of stuff over to a more efficient minirack setup. need to build a nas setup for it though. has a semi plan but then ram prices...
RAM prices 💩
I moved mine over to a MoDT (Mobile on Desktop) board with 2X48GB SODIMM
Just in the nick of time
should be good on storage for a bit though
my plan was to get and build around one of THESE
Struggling a bit here
Looks good. This is my one, which is a bit more capable (but more expensive) https://www.amazon.com/MINISFORUM-Motherboard-i9-13900HX-Chipset-PCIe4-0/dp/B0CTTMY5BW
How many pci lanes does it have?
Do you have a HBA?
Only gen3 on the M.2 bays...
cant remember but it has the sata ports for the drive count i need currently so the only thing ill be putting on pcie will probably be 10gbe adaptor
I use 2.5gbe on-board and HBA in the PCIE bay. I need storage more than I need bandwidth
What do you need 10gbe for?
it will be for storage management only. (well maybe it might get a random small container)
future proofing 😛
I run sooooooooooo many dockers
My thinking is that by the time I need 10Gbe, boards will start to become available with it on-board
Swapping boards is relatively painless.
currently my truenas setup is on a vm on proxmox with a hba passed through to it with pcie passthrough
I dislike unraid in general for a few concept reasons. but if it works for you then thats great.
The only thing that bothers me about my setup, is that all my services go down whenever I need to update the OS, or need to make a change to the array
What bothers you the most? They're changing a lot ATM
they charge for a ui to a linux system.
the licence is tied to usb boot media which they insist you use.
I feel like in a lot of cases its target market is people that like the idea of having a server but don't actually want to deal with having a server.
They're removing the USB requirement
they don't pay it back to the underlaying opensource stuff that much either.
Ah that sucks. I like valve because they make a lot of sales and contribute a lot back
HexOS pays stuff back and funds development of ZFS stuff for example.
I probably wouldnt use HexOS either but at least it helps upstream so i dislike it less. its also built on top of truenas and in a pinch you can just directly access the truenas ui if you want to do something specific thats not supported in the main HexOS UI.
Oh that's cool. I shall check it out
unraid i feel is less flexible but there is less you can do make stuff go wrong i guess.
i have proxmox on all my servers currently. the plan was to bare metal truenas on the new setup there though.
Good for people like me 🤣
yeah, I don't hate on people that use it and are happy with it. if it works for you then thats absolutly great. i just dislike it and wouldnt use it.
Looks like other people have the same idea with the Varilight inserts
I wish high street was still alive. I'd like to visit a light switch store and look/feel them all
Do I need to match the switch to the backbox size? So before ordering, I need to measure my backbox?
backboxes and the screw positions are a standard size so stuff should be able to be fitted on without issue.
You sure?
ok so i meant on every dimension except depth to be fair.
yeah depth can be an issue but you can get spacers if you need a tiny bit more room
this kind of thing - https://www.screwfix.com/p/schneider-electric-lisse-1-gang-spacer-white/5782j
various options available
I got a box of them ages ago that i occasionally use for stuff where needed.
replacing the backboxes with deeper ones is something that is usually doable but it depends on the wall. although its a bit of a job.
some examples of some stuff I have mentioned:
yeah i am aware the double spacer on the fuse spur looks bad but its not in a place that it needs to look good. i was gunna rework it and make it neater but I didnt end up bothering.
Hmmmm a nice metal switch wouldn't look so nice with a plastic spacer
You covered the switch up? Interesting. So I'll leave the switch visible, but turning it on/off manually shouldn't be a problem if I used shelly in detached mode
I like the idea though. In my bedroom, I cover my switch up and have a Hue Dial switch in front of it. IDK if I'll keep it long-term
i am sure you can probably get metal ones but its what i had on hand.
for that one, it needs to stay on. the presence sensor is also powered by that connection and the shelly to swith the fitting is next to the fitting
I try and keep it so manual usage is not an issue but in that case it was awkward
How did you wire a presence sensor into a light switch?
the power from it goes into a 5v power supply that powers the sensor which is in the ceiling.
its for the downstairs toilet so options for power were limited.
Is there anything I need to be aware of about the mini?
I wonder if I can automate my bathroom extraction fan.... I always open the window after a shower and forget about it.
nothing comes to mind really.
humidity sensor and trigger it baseed on humidity level. although use a higher spec relay. an extracter fan is an inductive load. its not huge but i probably wouldnt use a mini for it.
My plan is to use the mini to do some simple single-bulb rooms as practice. Then I'll get the larger 2PM ones for 2-gang switches. Then I need to figure out how to do 2-way switching for my hallways.
So will need the 16A version?
How many lights can a single 8A mini power?
i would think that the 16a version is probably fine for it yeah.
as long as they are LED then loads.
Awesome. Yeah I usually go with LED Philips Hue\
I think I have 8 in my dining room
you should be able to wire in such a way that current 2 way switching is maintained. the shelly will see it as a single switch but it will change state on either switch being used.
I will put Philips Hue and Shelly in every room
whatever is currently connected to the load(light) is put into the sw connection and it will work from both. if you make them both retracktive then it might need a bit more thought though.
Retractive is nice to have 1 function on press and 1 on hold
I like it more than my earlier plan of 2 gangs for 1 bulb
Simpler, but the same effect
Can't do much now, gotta wait for the weekend.
I'll figure it out as I go
yeah, gotta mess with it a bit and see what goes right/wrong and adapt as needed. good luck with it 🙂
The Nexus Grid range is ideal for domestic, commercial and industrial applications, and allows you to build your own module configurations with a variety of combinations and finishes. 1 and 2 gang grid yoke frame For use with screwed front plates Common Features: Earth terminal(s) fitted as standard Frames supplied wit
The Nexus Grid range is ideal for domestic, commercial and industrial applications, and allows you to build your own module configurations with a variety of combinations and finishes. BG 1 gang grid front plate suitable for 1 grid component Requires a BG RFR12 grid yoke frame (sold separately) Lightly lacquered surface
The Nexus Grid range is ideal for domestic, commercial and industrial applications, and allows you to build your own module configurations with a variety of combinations and finishes. 2 way, single pole switch 20 Amp, 20AX inductive rated Clearly marked terminals with backend out captive screws for easy installation Fe
Plan is that press up = light on, press down = light off, hold up = brightness up, hold down = brightness down
I spent far too long thinking about this
But I think this will combine traditional switching and smart home tech as seamlessly as possible.
Might need to return the 1PM minis
Looks like I need some wire and wagos.
Would this be suitable for Shelly 2PM gen4 ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silicone-Electrical-15Meters-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B0B1L9VQPN
"technically" for a lighting circuit you are supposed to use at least 1.5mm^2. realistically its probably fine.
tbh you can find an old mains cable you don't need anymore and chop it up and salvage the cores if you want, or get something like THIS and strip the cores out.
unless your doing a a serious amount of wiring, buying singles isn't really gunna be worth it.
I read that people have tried 14awg and it's a little too tight in the shelly terminal
Oh wait, I actually have some spare cable. I removed 2 downlights recently. 😄
also, stop using American wire measurements for UK stuff. you are just gunna end up with cables that are out of spec.
AWG = American Wire Gauge
awg is an American measurement? I thought it was global because cat6 is measured in awg
Right, so I need 1.5mm twin and earth cable, and then I need to strip it
in general:
1.5 for light circuits
2.5 for socket circuits
All my Shellys are going into light circuits.
Using flex makes it easier to work with but you should ferrule the ends for the terminals.
if you get single core you have to wrestle it a bit.
Flex sounds easier, but I have no idea how to ferrule
can get a kit with crimps and tool for example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C48XTB4M?th=1
Wondering if it might just be easier to not go with flex cable?
tbh a ferrule kit is not an awful thing to own anyway.
you can use single core but as i mentioned if you are already a little limited on space then wrestling it into the box can be a real pain.
down to you though.
Yeah the backboxes are a little cramped
you can use flex without ferrules too but its just a recommendation to use it otherwise strands get squished and cut all over the shop.
I don't understand what you mean by "single core" and why this is harder to wrestle into the box? Isn't single-core just 1 wire per colour instead of twin & earth?
the actual copper inside of the wire being 1 piece vs stranded.
random stock image:
"solid core" probably a better term tbh
its stiff cos its 1 piece of metal, and flex is stranded so is flexible.
Right, understood now.
a ferrule crimp keeps the strands together at the end
The product you linked has 3 variants. One is much more expensive than the other two
the different versions have different ranges of supported wires.
Ah yeah, you linked the best one
getting a wider range tool is handy.
get yourself a nice big toolbox 🙂
Gotta buy a new shed soon.
Is it okay to use black connectors on all my cables?
yeah that looks right, but sometimes to be honest you go with what fits
It's still gonna be 2 weeks before I can begin this project... My switch didn't arrive before the weekend, and I'm going on vacation for a week 31st-6th.
if its just for occasional useage it will basically last forever too. there are "professional grade" ones that are more robust but they are desdigned to be used constantly every day.
Yeah, I don't need pro tools. I'd be spending a fortune if I did.
I have so many tools that I use super infrequently
Still costs a fortune
Been collecting all the Bosch 18V battery powertools
yeah, tools are something that you will build up over time. but having them saves you problems in the future randomly.
Probably gonna have to shell out for this soon https://www.amazon.de/dp/B083DMRLMQ?th=1
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I have only owned a house since October 2024.
Gotta get an expensive combination ladder soon too. Got 2 more downlights to replace above my stairs, then I need to run cat6 to the loft from outside.
remember to use outdoor rated cat if your running outside.
also consider running LC-LC fibre cable alongside if your doing stuff anyway. you might not use it but if you want it in the future then it could be handy.
Yeah totally. I fucked up and paid someone to run cat6 to my loft, and now I have to redo it to run to my server room. 🤦♂️
Easy enough to find external grade cat6, but hard to find 500/550MHz
hmmmmmmmmm? First time hearing this
Can that be used to connect my ONT to my router?
"Maybe"
you have to get it pre-terminated at the length you need/want but the cables can come out the double connector so you can thread them separately without a massive hole.
its not a super expensive addition to run if your putting cables in anyway and gives you options in the future. for a high speed link.
My ONT only has one fibre in and one RJ45 out
yeah isp fibre in and copper out.
hmmmm I could use this for switch<->switch ?
you might be able to extend the isp fibre but its definetly a "maybe"
My switch has two fibre ports
yeah switch interlink is good
How much of a fucking idiot am I
for basic stuff fibre is pretty easy to work with. once you start getting into the more complex stuff there is some wizardry involved.
This is my switch. It's a beast. https://uk.store.ui.com/uk/en/category/all-switching/products/usw-pro-max-16-poe
my problem with that (and some other stuff from ubiquiti) is that its all like "2.5gbe swtich" then you notice its only got 4x2.5 ports
Yeah true, however, it's enough for my WAPs and switches. I mostly needs lots of 1gbe PoE ports or my cams, and IoT devices like hue bridge, etc
I wish it had more 2.5gbe, but difficult to get a switch that can do everything
i am aiming to move most of my stuff to 10" "mini" rack instead of my 19" rack tbh.
Ah, why?
Difficult to find a UPS for 10"
space and power efficientcy
You'll likely need third-party mounting kits too
i make them all myself with 3d printer.
awesome
I'd like a 3d printer, but probably wouldn't use it enough
my plan is both - https://uk.store.ui.com/uk/en/category/switching-utility/products/usw-flex-2-5g-8 and https://uk.store.ui.com/uk/en/category/all-switching/products/usw-flex-2-5g-8-poe
Flexible, 8-port 2.5 GbE switch with a 10 GbE RJ45/SFP+ combination uplink port that can be powered with a USB-C or PoE+ adapter.
I almost bought those two, then I decided to just get the 1 switch
this gives me all 2.5 with 8 poe's and the switches can be initially linked at 10gbe but in the future potentially adding a 10gbe switch too
I was tempted by this - https://shop.thetechnologydoctors.co.uk/products/tp-link-omada-sg3428xpp-m2-2-5gigabit-switch
I would never buy their smart home stuff but that might as well be a different comapny.
but in general higher end tp-link network gear is "probably fine"
but I wasn't totally convinced tbh.
then decided to start moving stuff to 10" and went a different way
I bought a 19" rack, but I'm now afraid to wall-mount it because my studs aren't correctly spaced apart. Gonna try using this on one side... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plasterboard-Cavity-Fixings-Heavy-Trade/dp/B08TVZP1BQ/
A versatile fixing of unrivalled strength and suitable for all types of plasterboard: insulated plasterboard, hardboard, plywood,chipboard, MDF, Lath and plaster and other materials. Ideal for mounting heavy loads eg radiators, towel rails, kitchen cupboards, bathroom equipment and accessories, c...
Got myself a super fancy studfinder
oh nice you have a networking closet
power and network cables have a loop on them so i can bring it out of the cupboard to work on it.
IDK how I'd run my cables under the stairs. I plan to run them to my spare room
How did you get them running there?
its a new(ish) build so a bunch of stuff was predone tbh.
Your server looks a bit too small for me. I have BIG storage demands
main array for me is 4 drives but that system thats out in the photo does takes 8.
your a bigger hoarder then me 😛
my plan is to move storage to a new setup in the 10" rack with 6 bays which will be fine for me for a while.
but plan is on hold cos of component prices
My plan is to go 60 bays https://hakoforge.com/products/hakocore#product-modal
The HakoCore is a versatile modular server chassis designed for tech enthusiasts, home server builders, and small businesses. Its customizable design supports a range of HDD and SSD configurations, allowing you to easily adapt the setup to your evolving storage needs. Ideal for media servers, NAS setups, or data storag
Yeah same....
Current setup
So I'll wallmount my 19" rack in my box room, and then put my tower PC below it
You're creating needs for me 😅
Thanks for sharing your project 👌
no worries 🙂 always happy to hopefully inspire ideas.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/time-3182y-white-2-core-1-5mm-flexible-cable-10m-coil/905jy
I found this, looks ideal for shellys?
Ground not needed, right?
I delayed the project because I went on holiday and then I was sick, but I'm getting better so looking to buy the stuff tonight.
Yeah it should be fine for lighting circuits. Shelly's themselves don't have an earth connection.
Awesome, it's less than half the price of the 3 core Amazon version
Save some $$$ which is good because I'm spending shitloads on my house lately
@cedar verge Random question, but what's your favourite AA rechargeable battery?
I cant say that I have one, I ddont use any. I dont really have anything that runs on AA. Although unless its something that i would need to use a bunch and replace a bunch i wouldn't use rechargeable. if its something that is years between replacements anyway then just a standard battery is probably a better solution IMO (although to be fair I haven't researched AA battery technology in years)
Hmmmmm okay. I have remotes and stuff.
But yeah, maybe if it's years between replacements, maybe I don't need rechargeable. 🤔
yeah, just spend a little more and get decent standard batteries and not worry about it for years.
I just spent 2 hours researching rechargeable AA batteries and you just made me completely rethink everything
Ah but alkaline batteries leak!
lol, sometimes you get into a rabbit hole. to be fair they might be better now then when I last looked into them. I know you get those ones that have a usb charging port on them these days which solves the issue of locating the charger when you need it I guess.
and lithium batteries explode 😛
NiMH is what most rechargeables use
gotta be a lot lower capacity though.
sure standard batteries can leak but its not like they all leak 100% of the time.
I have a memory of leaked batteries ruining one of my devices, although it was just something cheap.
I want to put them in some expensive devices, such as my smart water valve, and it would be horrible if it was damaged because of the batteries.
Oh interesting
Alkaline doesn't even work
more likely will work but will "go dead" quicker. the voltage drop off curves are very different. lithium holds higher voltage for longer. but its easier to say that "it doesnt work"
can you imagine the support. "why does my battery stop working after a short time when the battery works fine when I test it in my tv remote for ages" better off to say "lithium only"
brings up the thing in technical spec and documentation... Its easier to lie to someone then be forced to explain "technically yes but you most likely cant do this and I don't want to try and help you do it"
If it gets the person a more reliable setup and they will be happier in the long run then I am mostly happy with it.
Alright then
Ah free shipping only applies when it's $35 spent when sold by Amazon. 💩
lol @ "precharged with solar" greenwashing wankery
haha I noticed that too
It's such a tiny amount of power
@cedar verge I just installed some metal power sockets, but realised I don't have any wire to connect the faceplate's earth terminal to the earth terminal in the metal backbox. Would this be okay for the job? https://www.screwfix.com/p/time-3-core-yy-grey-2-5mm-unscreened-control-cable-1m-coil/721py
Can't find any 1-core cable, so I guess I'll buy 3-core and throw most of it away lol
you can get some earth sleeving and use whatever core you like with the sleeving over the top
Oh yeah good idea. But still, I have no 2.5mm cable, and the one I linked seems to be the cheapest. It just worries me how it isn't normal L/N/E
But does it matter? It's just a difference of sleeving, right?
in general I would recommend using single core non stranded cable for earth but I don't think it should really matter.
Well there's this, but it's another $10 https://www.screwfix.com/p/time-6491x-green-yellow-1-core-2-5mm-conduit-cable-25m-drum/175jy
And I only need like 2X10CM of wire
Sounds like it's okay to use it then.
as long as you have a solid connection stranded will be fine. specially if its ferruled on the ends.
Just be sensible with it and you will likely be fine.
Thank you.
First attempt, any good?
I couldn't figure out how to strip exactly the right amount of insulation. I was also worried about frayed wire going further than the ferrule
you should use electronic side cutters - one to cut exact. eg. https://www.amazon.de/Electronic-Elektronik-Seitenschneider-Lichtwellenleiter-Rostschutz-125/dp/B005EXOF6S
78 61 125 Electronic Super Knips® Präzisionszangen für feinste Schneidarbeiten, z. B. in Elektronik und Feinmechanik. Geschliffene, sehr scharfe Schneiden ohne Facette. Exakt geformte Spitzen schneiden auch anliegende Drähte ab Ø 0,2 mm. Scherschnitt mit kontrolliertem Micro-Schneidkantenversatz ...
It looks fine to me.
Nice. Had to pause the work because my wife complained about turning off the power sockets. Gotta do it when she goes to church tomorrow morning.
I worked a bit on the shelly. God it's confusing because I have a centre-off retractive switch. Then it got dark and I stopped because I can barely see what I'm doing.
Is the AI correct?
So my backbox only has 1 brown, 1 blue and 1 green/yellow
But this website says it should be fine, contradicting the AI
https://labs.smarthomeshopuk.com/guides/install-shelly-without-neutral/
Progress yay
That's weird
So the switch works. Currently holding up or holding down seems to turn the bulb on. I'll probably reprogram it later to perform desired actions.
However, the flickering issue needs fixing.
Ah its flickering even with a dumb bulb
Same issue with the 1PM. The bulb works fine when brown and blue are connected directly, even when using wagos and all the custom wires I used, so the issue must be with how I'm wiring the shelly
Ah I have a 'ceiling rose'... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXIrAMhT9SA
Today's video is a follow on from my previous video where we took a look at using Shelly smart relays to control smart bulbs. However, in this video we'll be focussing on how to implement the same setup, but where you don't have neutrals behind your light switches. In the UK, these lighting circuits are referred to as using the "3-Plate Method...
I think my neutral isn't actually a neutral. It's a 'switched live' where the installer was too lazy to attach brown tape.
from your photos you have a neutral at the switch.
Are you sure? You don't think it's a 'Switched Live'?
It's only Brown and blue in the switch
@cedar verge Watching this video makes me think it's a switched live without brown sleeving https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXIrAMhT9SA
Today's video is a follow on from my previous video where we took a look at using Shelly smart relays to control smart bulbs. However, in this video we'll be focussing on how to implement the same setup, but where you don't have neutrals behind your light switches. In the UK, these lighting circuits are referred to as using the "3-Plate Method...
based on the photos you have posted, you are incorrect
I couldn't get it to work today. The best I could do was get it working flickering. The shelly seemed to work, but when turning it on, the bulb was flashing like crazy
But I have no Load wire, only a Live?
There should be two browns, right? A load and a live
I'd love it if I was wrong and I can wire this up behind my switch
do you have a photo of how it was before you did anything?
When I connect L and N directly in a wago, it works fine. When I connect to L and N on my Shelly, turning the bulb on makes it flash
No, but I can explain very simply. Blue into L1, Brown into Comms, and ground into an isolator thingy.
My other light switch has some sleeving on the blue. I wasn't working on this one though
the light fixture you have posted a photo only has 1 set of cables coming into it. which must be switched live and neutral
Here is my other switch without anything connected (not the one I was working on today)
You mean this photo?
I have to return the Shelly tomorrow if I can't get it working. 30 day return window is closing
yes
when you say "other switch" what do you mean? is this a 2 switch setup for the same light?
Different room, completely unrelated.
So my switch is like this, but without the L2. Brown into Com and blue into L2.
so you only have 2 wires at the switch and you only have 2 wires at the light fixture (I am ignoring earth for this purpose)...
Cameron Gray says I have "3 plate method"
Looks like 2 browns and a blue?
so... cameron gray has great videos. but please be careful blindly trying to do stuff with mains can be dangerous
He says either install it at the fitting, or use the Shelly 1L/2L
things like "lets see whatr happens when i connect these 2 together" can absolutely kill you
One time I shorted two UPS batteries. That scared the shit out of me
you only have 2 wires in and then they are connected to the 2 wires going to the bulb
if the switch only had 2 wires that were connected to Com and L1 (or L2 it doesn't matter) then there must be another connection somewhere. This might be behind the light fitting in the ceiling.
also if its a basic switch you should not be connected all 3 terminals to the shelly
There is something a bit strange going on with your wiring.
So I just realised this is a different light fitting...
This is the one
I connected L and N and SW
its the same anyway. 2 wires coming in which are then connected to the lights wires.
please stop doing anything at this stage
I need to do something by tomorrow, otherwise I can't return it
The plug socket was so much easier than this.
so based on everything you have described. there is no neutral at the switch because if there had been you would have at best blown out the electrics to the house by doing what you did.
I need to get across to you that you have done some seriously dangerous things
there must be an additional wiring box somewhere.
no that is the consumer unit.
Yeah just thought I'd share in case it helps at all
I remember when swapping out my downlights, I found a ceiling rose in my loft.
Maybe there's one of these up above my pendant light?
given this is a fairly modern install from what I can see. its strange its wired like this. plus missing sleeving etc... its a bit of bodge in places.
perhaps.
House was built in 2004
and its likely had some rewiring done since.
2004-2006 was a big changeover period in uk electrical work (colours changing etc...)
a full RCBO board would have been strange in 04.
but anyway. back to job at hand
my recommendation is thus.
wire everything back the way it was originally
return the 2pm
add brown sleeving to the blue wire at the switch.
you can instead get one of the no neutral devices. and put it behind the switch.
but to be honest at this point you may want to consider getting an electrician involved.
I've wired it back to the original. I'll return the 1PM and 2PM tomorrow.
Not super keen on those no-neutral shellys. You have to wire up a bypass on the light fitting, and they still don't work as well as the normal Shellys...
I am not trying to be a dick here but when it comes to this brutal honesty is best for safety.
you do not know how things are wired
you do not understand the wiring systems at play
you have already done things that could have been pretty catastrophic.
the wiring is slightly suspect anyway.
therefore you may not be the right person to do this work.
I would tend to agree, I very much dislike the no neutral setups. also to be fair given your setup the bypass might not be simple to add.
ffs so I'm stuck with dumb switches and smart bulbs. My Korean wife's parents are coming to visit in May. Not ideal.
I have a Hue dial switch for my bedroom, but not keen on rolling out battery-powered switches throughout my house.
sticking with smart bulb dumb switch seems to be the better option.
cover the switch and put a battery powered smart switch on the wall or maybe as part of the cover over the old switch.
battery powered stuff does have the issue but realistically they last ages.
yeah something like this
It looks and feels cheap
perhaps but It is entirely the best solution for you unless you want to get a sparky in and investigate what's going on in the ceiling and finding a way to wire a relay in place correctly.
God I feel depressed now
https://www.shelly.com/pages/installers Oh cool there's 3 local installers. Might be expensive to do my whole house though...
Just find a local sparky that is up to date on smart home stuff.
I have no idea what shellys requirements for becoming an installer are.
Smart Wall Switch H1 is our first and most advanced Zigbee 3.0 wall switch that supports both round and square wall boxes with a focus on popular ecosystem support, latest software features and safety. Premium Build and Metal Frame: Uses our award-winning design chosen by the majority of our user...
oh 🙁
But this person says it's fine with Hue
may work, may not. also note that it is zigbee.
yeah no neutral can be flakey because of this type of thing
Zigbee is ine
Basically...It might work, It might not.
every setup is slightly different. you will find a bunch of reviews from people that it works great for and is perfect but you will also find a bunch of reviews from people whom it didnt work for and they think its a scam product.
by all means give it a try.
Slightly worried Amazon is going to come after me if I return too much
It is possible but for the most part they should become more suspicious and rule enforcing rather than anything else.
ooooo
ok so... My opinion is that smart socket plates are fundamentally dangerous and should be avoided.
Why?
they have relays for control. relays ratings are mostly for resistive loads. inductive loads can damage them cause arc'ing and fire. its all well and good saying "oh well ill just wont use inductive loads on them" but at some point some genius will plug a vacuum or a drill or something into them and cause problems.
My wife is slightly mad with me right now. I'll return the Shellys and give the Aqara a test. I'm disappointed though, because my plan was to put BG Nexus metal sockets/switches all around my house.
Whilst my smart light project has some setbacks, I appreciate all the help you've given me, and I learnt some skills for wiring and understand my light circuits a bit better now. It's been frustrating, but a valuable learning experience. Thank you.
I'll need to run some cat6 soonish. I think I can run the cables and zip-tie and punch them down okay. The only thing I'm not confident on is removing the old cables where they come into the brick wall.
Before this, I was just putting the wires in different terminals and trying different combinations until it worked. Now I know what "neutral" "live" "load" "switched live" and "ground" mean.
No worries, Learning is part of the process, But please be careful.
So this Aqara switch seems to stay powered on well and was super simple to install.
I've been struggling getting Zigbee2MQTT working on my ZBT-1 or ZBT-2 for the past week. Have you ever used it?
Nice that the Aqara works, I just use ZHA for my ZBT-2 setup. I haven't played with z2m. Probably best making a fresh thread for questions on that.
sigh I got mosquitto and zigbee2mqtt running.
Got it all working in decoupled mode. Now my switch stops working when my Hue Bulb is turned off.
When I turn the Hue bulb on using HA, then the switch comes back on too
yeah that is a thing with no-neutral setups sometimes, you need a certain amount of power flowing to be able to get power out.
So I guess my options are:
- Pay an electrician to install neutral wires (expensive?)
- Install bypass capacitors
- Cover up the switch and use a battery-powered switch on top
- Replace my Hue bulbs with dumb bulbs
more or less.
no-neutral switch would still fail with a dumb bulb switched off unless you mean getting rid of that too.
Ah it would? So I wouldn't be able to control via HA?
getting power the way no-neutral stuff does requires some power to be flowing through the circuit. which is enough when a hue bulb is on but not off. a dumb bulb will also have no power flowing when off.
What's the point in no-neutral switches then?
I ask myself that all the time.
I'm confused
So then my options are:
- Pay an electrician to install neutral wires (expensive?)
- Install bypass capacitors (very unsure about the viability of this)
- Cover up the switch and use a battery-powered switch on top
Looks like this blog post pretty much draws this conclusion: https://howmation.com/en_UK/blog/article/smart-switch-smart-bulb-no-neutral-3-solutions
At this point, I would probably just put a battery powered switch over the top and call it a day.
This is what I did with our master bedroom. Not super fond of adding more and more battery-powered devices to my house though.
It works well, but more batteries to maintain...
Also, a lot of cheap-looking plastic.
Oh wow the battery still hasn't dropped below 100%
they tend to last years for this kinda thing. but what you can do is every 1.5-2 years or something just go around and replace them all. so you are not playing whack a mole with them when they do start to go.
Thinking of buying another 5
Good thing I have the Hue Hub Pro, because I'm going to have >50 Hue devices at this rate
My original plan was to do everything directly through HA, but the extra reliability of the hub and its low power consumption is kinda good. Since my lighting is reliant on the uptime, it's good to have that seperate system.