Okay I feel really silly posting this question.
I heard Matter binding had been released as a beta feature, but I can't find it.
I've been using Homeassistant for a year with my Inovelli and Nanoleaf Thread devices, so I know ow my way around. I've updated to beta releases of both HA and Matter, gone to the appropriate entities, and there is no binding button.
What painfully obvious thing did I miss?