#What smart plug with power monitoring do you recommend?
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I’ve not had a lot of luck using smart plugs on my washing machine. They burn out after a little while.
I expect this has something to do with the current draw when the motor spins up exceeding the capacity of the plugs hardware.
I’m about to install a CT clamp on the line to my outlet to avoid this burnout.
as @carmine sand mentioned you don't want to use a smart plug that has a relay in it on a washing machine.
its because washing machines have an inductive load which causes the relay to arc.
you should also include the country you are in when asking for things like this as recommendation may change between them.
a CT clamp solution is a great option. or you can get something like this - https://www.shelly.com/products/shelly-pm-mini-gen3 and wire it inline. it doesnt have a relay so doesn't suffer from the arcing problem that switchable stuff has.
Out of interest, do fridges have this kind of inductive load as well? I’ve had plugs die in these use cases as well, but at a lower rate.
yeah a fridge has a motor/compressor which are inductive
Smaller load though, I suppose. Given the higher MTBF I’m seeing on those plugs.
Good to know!
washing machine will be a higher load and runs for longer.
although a fridge compressor will run more often.
athom make a no relay smart plug for monitoring only UK VERSION HERE but they do them in a bunch of plug types for various countries. but they are limited to 10A which may be an issue for some appliances peak draw
I was about to ask about this!
think there might be a tosmota version as well as an esphome version. i would go for the esphome but some people like tasmota
You can flash esphome over top, I believe. If you’re into that sort of thing.
ct clamp tracking is going to be more reliable long term though most likely
yeah i am sure it can be changed but just mentioned as if you have a preference then can just get it out the box with it to save the hastle
That was a subtle pro-tasmota jab.
the shelly device i linked above is great though and can be wired behind a socket easily for example
i have some bulbs running tasmota but mostly a esphome enjoyer 🙂
I am using a Shelly Plug (no S - the discontinued one with a 16A rating) for my washing machine. The washing machine's max is at 2200 W and the plug can take up to 3500 W - so there is a bit of wiggle room for inductive loads.
Would recommend a CT clamp solution nevertheless.
Unless you trigger the relay it shouldn't really matter, no?
triggering the relay will definitely make the situation worse. but the inductive load itself can cause false triggers.
Have you had this happen? How does that look like?
But to answer the question I'm using the cheapest tuya plugs I could find and after a firmware upgrade they just works fine for my fridge, dishwasher, washing machine, oven, etc.
there's a lot of variable in the mix. some setups I am sure will be fine but a lot wont be. the inductive load messes with the magnetic field that controls the relay causes it to "flicker" and as the motor turns and pushes power during the flicker it causes arcing which generates a shitload of heat. sometimes its just burn marks inside from it sometimes it will fuse the relay open/closed. the heat can fuck with the other components too.
if the plastic of the device is not made from self extinguishing plastic then it can definetly set on fire from the heat/spark too.
oven is gunna be resistive load, the bigger issue with electric ovens is usually earth leakage but that's an RCD's job.
in general other appliances might have high loads but the load is split between resistive/inductive.
the heating elements are resistive which is largely fine but motors are inductive. depending on the size depends how much power they are push/pulling. and the fields they generate and how that reactions to the field from the relay. these fields can change a bit over time with oxidation of components and whatnot. so one day its fine and the next day it arcs like mad.
will some people do it and never have a problem? sure absolutely. but i am never gunna recommend someone do it. if you know and accept thats fine but the issue is when one sets on fire due to it and then you get mad reddit posts "PSA: XYZ company make unsafe products they set my kitchen on fire then told me I wasn't using it right" etc...
am i over simplying stuff a bit? probably
am i 100% correct on the specifics? probably not
@somber marshI live in Sweden if that changes anything
nah, i dont think so. as mentioneed above, either a non-relay device or a ct clamp monitor is what you want.
What about those p1-port for power meter. Can those tell me when the washing machine is done?
they track the full usage of the house, not specific circuits.
so....I guess if you turn off and disconnect absolutely everything in the house every time you use the washing machine then it could...
so realistically no.
The trick I've heard for washing machines is to use a vibration sensor. Alternately, yes, a clamp style load meter that can handle that load range would be safest.
I use this with my sump pump. I think it is designed for heavy loads. It is Z-wave if that matters but I like z-wave :) https://www.getzooz.com/zooz-zen15-power-switch/
I have a circuit breaker monitoring setup, tells me the power usage of each circuit. I find that I was able to write an automation to use that to monitor washer/dryer quite effectively
it uses clamp style in the panel
it even works when my dryer goes into wrinkle-free mode
another option.. someone makes a zwave device that can monitor an led, basically a light sensor. So you can tape it over the front of the dryer where the indicator light is
Wrinkle-free electricity is called DC