#Helper Utility meter - Weekly reset happens on Monday?
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
disable the reset there and reset it with a time based automation. then you can do whenever you like
interesting. doesnt appear i can turn off unless i fully delete the Utility helper and recreate it. thats annoying
weird. none of my utility meters show up
yeah you might have to remake
and yes they dont show up but if you manually put the full entity name in there then it will work
you can also use utility meter calibrate and set them to 0 if you want
oh weird....it didnt suggest anything but showed up when entered
its still really odd you have to recreate the entire utility meter to get access to the settings for it.
that makes no sense why it has to be that way
the ui for helpers is intentionally a bit limited to reduce complexity and if you want to do more complicated stuff you can use the config file and yaml
however in this case i do agree with you that its a bit of a pain
yeah i was experimenting with the meters and had to delete, recreate, delete, recreate a bunch of times just to mess around for a few minutes. what a headache lol
i added a new IF statement to my daily reset automation to check if its Sunday and to reset the meter....should do the job.
yep thats what i did
i just added it to my daily reset automation instead of creating a whole new automation and clogging up the list
yup thanks didnt know that existed. i should just randomly type next time and see if it exists
yeah if your having trouble messing with something then checking what actions it has can open up some options. i use utility meter resets in automations for tracking power over a "session" e.g. car charging session
well i just got my water meter to pull so im trying to track it. cant get electricity because it seems to be encrypted so yeah
use a CT clamp to get electricity 🙂
i saw that. somewhere. cant remember where. shelly maybe?
probably, shelly is what i would recomend
do you use that
i have ct clamps and also a connection to the smart meter. so i have options
my electric company has a zigbee box that talks to it but its $100
you can definetly get a ct clamp setup cheaper than that but also if it works it might be easier and neater
i have 2 of those devices mointoring various things
i have a load of shelly devices to be fair...i feel like a bit of shill sometimes but its just that their stuff is good
i use 1 for all the basement lights, and 4 for garage door openers, the clamp thing is new to me
something to note is that the ct clamps come with a connector on them which is compatble with some of their other devices. to use with that one you have to chop it off and strip the wires to attach
really easy though
just dont electrocute yourself whilst installing
Yeah I was confused by that. The clamp in the photo I sent is completely separate device than that other thing?
You don't use both of them if you just want to clamp on the one power line
Yeah?
yeah you can only attach 1 if you want
but if you want to monitor circuits seperatly then you can use the other
You have me intrigued now. Sorry for derailing
its fine
you wire live/neutral into it for power. and also the 2 cables from each clamp into the respective terminals
yeah you could put 1 clamp on thee source and then if you want you could put the other on a particular circuit you want to monitor
I think the best would be the electric water heater
it also has a low power output relay (1a i think) if you wanted to power a light or something with it but i have never used that
can see the devices are under the breakers and the clamps on circuits up top
yeah that seems way better than buying their dumb box
i can pull the meter with RTL_SDR but again, encrypted
do also note you can put them on "backwards" and get a negative reading. so if you get negative you need to flip the clamp 🙂
i assume i have to take my breaker box apart and put it on the wire inside instead of that huge honkey plastic thing on the outside
yeah putting it inside is going to be the best option
and im also guessing i need the 120A clamp for that
again, please be careful and if your not sure get an electrician
the default setting on the firmware is for 50a clamp i beleive you have to go in and change it but its easy in the ui
oh nice
i would guess maybe a 50A would be fine for a water heater? idk lol
probably would get the 2x 120A to be safe
yeah, i just got the big ones, not because i need them now but because i might want them at some point
they are pysically bigger though so if your tight on space then you could go for smaller
thats good because we might turn the outside garage into another house, and this would be an ideal way to monitor the power for that
would have to get a completely new breaker box obviously, but if its all connected into one. theres no way to tell without a clamp
where do you live where breaker boxes look like this lol
UK
ah okay. i am not in UK
thought the plug in the corneer of photo would give it away
pretty weird lookin plug
uk plug is the best plug
its solid and its got a load of safety features built in
oh. i have no idea about any of that since we dont have it
it might be strange but we have a lot of pride in our plugs
i wish there was pride in having non-encrypted meter broadcasts
old tom scott video 🙂 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEfP1OKKz_Q
http://tomscott.com - http://twitter.com/tomscott - ALL THE ELECTRICS I USED WERE UNPLUGGED. DO NOT DO THIS.
Yep, I'm going all patriotic again. And while I'm willing to bet that a good number of British folks know the first half of this video, there's one thing about slack in here that I only just learned myself.
[rtl_433] time : 2025-02-19 23:55:15-0500
[rtl_433] Protocol : 271
[rtl_433] model : LandisGyr-GS
[rtl_433] Network ID: 47f7
[rtl_433] Location : Pennsylvania
[rtl_433] Provider : PPL Electric
[rtl_433] subtype : 213
[rtl_433] protoversion: 4
[rtl_433] Integrity : CRC
[rtl_433] Source Meter ID: f1403df4
[rtl_433] Target Meter ID: 80618b8b
[rtl_433] Modulation: FSK
[rtl_433] Freq1 : 902.2 MHz
[rtl_433] Freq2 : 902.2 MHz
[rtl_433] RSSI : -8.2 dB
[rtl_433] SNR : 15.6 dB
[rtl_433] Noise : -23.8 dB
[rtl_433] [gridstream_decode] Decoded frame data
[rtl_433] codes : {208}2ad500162980618b8bf1403df462b801000efe030d281380483e
look how unhelpful that is
sad
i was looking at my breaker box and it is 200A. so im going to assume those shelly clamps that are 120A wont work, right?
so you'd merely just see it max out and not go past 120 if it came to it
it wont be able to measure beyond it. i suspect that its protected against damage of it going higher
it might reboot or something.
i think shelly do make device which has 400a clamps but they are for big industrial stuff. personally i wouldnt be concerned with using a 120a one
Shelly Pro 3EM-400 is a DIN rail mountable three-phase energy meter. Enhanced with all the gen2 firmware flexibility and LAN connectivity, it provides professional integrators with additional options for end-customer solutions. Shelly Pro 3EM-400 reports accumulated energy as well as instantaneous voltage, current, and
even if the normal em with 120 failed. it probably wont fail in a way thats dangerous... i mean theres always a chance in theory but they are designed to be safe to use
oh wow. okay. is 200A abnormal for a house?