help-with-3dprinting

[weary lichen]

BuildTak is also an alternative.

And probably the easiest one to get.

[shy kelp]

Thanks

[weary lichen]

Just make sure if you go with BuildTak that you get the real stuff. The more generic ones have adhesive that's super difficult to remove, while the real BuildTak is designed to be removed at the end of its lifespan and replaced with new stuff

[shy kelp]

Thanks the help

[shy kelp]

Lol I can't get the print off the bed

[violet needle]

Adafruit Industries posted Fusion 360 Tutorial – Modifying Sketches (For Beginners)

[shy kelp]

Hey @weary lichen yiu have experience with octoprint?

[weary lichen]

Not yet.

I plan on setting it up

What's the plan?

[shy kelp]

I have a problem setting it up with my rpi3

I loaded the image to a micro SD but can't SSH connect to i5

It

[weary lichen]

Do you have a monitor/tv/etc + keyboard so you can take a peek at the Pi?

To get the IP address

[shy kelp]

Yes

[weary lichen]

When you get logged into the Pi, you'll want to type "sudo ifconfig" into the command line (If it's opening into a desktop, you'll have to open a terminal)

https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruits-raspberry-pi-lesson-3-network-setup/finding-your-pis-ip-address

[shy kelp]

It says

Octopi login:

[weary lichen]

one sec

Default username is "Pi"

default password is "raspberry"

[shy kelp]

Also says I can go to octopi.local on a web browser. But when I go there nothing happens

It just says server not found

[weary lichen]

Yeah, you'll need to get to the IP address, becasue for some reason your network isn't recognizing it.

type "pi" and hit enter

Then type "raspberry" and hit enter when it prompts for password. It won't show any change when typing the password - this is normal

[shy kelp]

Alright I signed in

So ifconfig?

[weary lichen]

sudo ifconfig

the "sudo" is important as that runs it with the appropriate permissions

[shy kelp]

What interface

I'm using wifi

[weary lichen]

wlan0

should have "inet addr"

with the IP config

[shy kelp]

It has inet6 addr

What do I do with that?

[weary lichen]

Can you get me a picture?

[weary lichen]

OK. Try "Ping 192.168.1.1"

You'll have to hit ctrl+c to stop it after a few times.

[shy kelp]

Destination hist unreachable

[weary lichen]

OK. The reason you can't SSH into it, is because it isn't cooperating with your network.

[shy kelp]

I have 2 networks, should I try my secondary one?

[weary lichen]

PRobably

[shy kelp]

Should the quation marks around ssid and password be single or double

[weary lichen]

Don't think it matters as long as thay're both the same. I use double.

[shy kelp]

I used double, rebooting the Pi now

Alright

Here's what it shows

octopi.local still doesn't work

[weary lichen]

what's your /etc/network/interfaces look like?

[shy kelp]

1 sec

[weary lichen]

Personally, I'd remove wlan1 in its entirety. It might be getting hung up on the wrong one.

It also looks different than my standard setup

iface wlan0 inet static
address 192.168.1.200
netmask 255.255.255.0
gateway 192.168.1.1
wpa-conf /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
iface default inet dhcp```

[shy kelp]

So get rid o this?

[weary lichen]

That gives my Pi a static IP of 192.168.1.200 - super useful for SSHing in

[shy kelp]

I'll try that

[weary lichen]

I'd save that one as a backup

And then.... One sec

[shy kelp]

Right I the wlan0 thing

Should I try again?

[weary lichen]

One more thing.

Above it, put "auto wlan0"

[shy kelp]

Above the allow-hotplug wlan0?

[weary lichen]

Yep

[shy kelp]

Alright

That it?

[weary lichen]

Yeah

[shy kelp]

Alright I'm rebooting the pi

Alright it's rebooted

Octopi local doesn't work

[weary lichen]

sudo ifconfig shows what?

(I don't expect octopi.local to work. Those type of masks have never worked for me for my Pis)

[weary lichen]

Aha, here's a try:

edit or create /etc/sysctl.conf

And add "net.ipv6.conf.all.disable_ipv6=1" on a new line

SAve it, and reboot

[shy kelp]

Is there a way to do it on the Pi without having to remove the SD card and out it into my. Laptop?

Will sudo nano work?

[weary lichen]

Yep

Reboot can be done by "sudo reboot"

Nano is what I use for editing local files

[shy kelp]

Alright I'm rebooting

Alright

[weary lichen]

Hmm. Well.

Without showing your key, what is your wpa_supplicant file?

[shy kelp]

Sorry I'll have to check tomorrow. Thanks for the help

[weary lichen]

No worries!

[shy kelp]

@weary lichen is there a way to make yiur own web interface for the MP mini?

It's web interface is really bad lol

[weary lichen]

Yeah, it is

I've heard of such things but I'm not sure how

[shy kelp]

Does the printer use an ESP chip set for wifi?

[weary lichen]

I doubt it, but it's possible

https://www.mpselectmini.com/communications#sample_code_for_web_ui

Down on that page, it shows how to upload a custom web UI

[weary lichen]

@cobalt quarry https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2737211

Those are the files to the Pi Zero case.

[shy kelp]

So I'm not sure why

But the web interface works great all of a sudden

Takes 5sec average to upload a 1 Mb file

5mb file took like 7 sec

[weary lichen]

I'm guessing some form of intereference somewhere.

[shy kelp]

It makes me mad that I have to go to a website to see the estimated print time lol

[weary lichen]

If you're anyway decent with web coding, you can put it on the web interface

[cobalt quarry]

@weary lichen Thanks. Now I just need to wait for my printer to arrive.

[shy kelp]

Printing the hairy lion

[shy kelp]

I'd say it was pretty successful

[weary lichen]

That's awesome.

[shy kelp]

Didn't think it was going to turn out that good

Accidently bought the wrong type of tape and everything sticks to it too well

So then I have to raise the bed temp to 60 so the sticky part will melt away

[spice estuary]

Little bit of detail work on smooth part of it, fantastic

[simple fable]

3d printed rollercoaster that works: https://www.open-electronics.org/3d-printed-fully-functional-mini-roller-coaster/

[shy kelp]

This benchy has been underwater for 2 days

It doesn't appear to get weaker or anything like everyone says

[weary lichen]

@shy kelp From what I've seen, it's about what's in the water

Also, i think Benchy Boat is the wrong side up

[shy kelp]

Lol

It won't stay up for some reason

Also, @weary lichen how can I fix/prevent stringing on prints?

[weary lichen]

Stringing! A number of ways.

Retraction is first

Z-lift is another

And there's an option fir keeping moves within the solid part of a print

You'll never be able to completely get rid of it, but retraction is good to work in

Z-lift had the biggest effect for me

[shy kelp]

1.what is retraction? 2. How can I stop it in slic3r?

[tribal egret]

@shy kelp http://reprap.org/wiki/Retraction_Tuning_With_Slic3r

also: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/

[shy kelp]

Thanks

[weary lichen]

Retraction is sometimes good, sometimes bad.

Too much is bad. But too little can lead to oozing

[timber niche]

Try weighing a freshly printed part then leaving it in water for a few days and them weighing it again. I'm guessing it will get at least a little heavier from absorbing water. You could also take measurements before and after soaking to see if it swells.

[tribal egret]

how would leaving that same part out to dry out in the sun (or something) affect the material? will it shrink down ? @timber niche

[shy kelp]

Has anyone used ASTRO print before?

Octoprint won't work for me so Im gonna a give a shot at astro print

[weary lichen]

@shy kelp What issues are you having wtih OctoPrint?

[shy kelp]

Remember it won't connect to wifi

You tried helping me like 2 days ago

[weary lichen]

Wasn't sure if you had figured that out and ran into other problems or not

[shy kelp]

I was thinking of trying astro print. Good idea?

[weary lichen]

Never heard of it

[shy kelp]

Ok

[uncut ledge]

Stick with octopi

Astroprint is the newb friendly version of octopi, also less features

[weary lichen]

@shy kelp To answer a question from earlier: It looks like the driver board does, in fact, have an ESP8266 on it. Looks like it handles the screen, and probably wifi too

[shy kelp]

Oh

Then you could easily y change the OS

Well no

The wifi interface

Just flash a new wifi OS on that bad Johnson

Like the cloud NodeMCU

[weary lichen]

The primary driver is an M3 chip

[timber niche]

I downloaded astroprint but haven't played with it yet.

I looked at the Simplify3D site yesterday and noticed they now say they support Fedora Linux. They used to only support Ubuntu.

[cobalt quarry]

2018 will be the year I start doing 3d printing. Very excited!

[timber niche]

I had one of the 3d printed parts on my printer (cheap Chinese Prusa i3 knockoff) break on me. I was able to print a replacement at my local maker space (where I built the printer in the first place), but Cura put the supports right down the middle of where screw holes go, filling up the holes. So I had to drill out the holes and in the process the bit took a bite out of the side of one of the holes. If it weren't for the fact that it is sandwiched between two other parts, it wouldn't sit straight.

So first I have to figure out if there is anything that can be done in Cura to modify support placement. If I can't do that, I think I'll invest in Simplify3D.

[spring pine]

🎆

[tribal egret]

what are the speed limits of an 8bit vs 32bit controller board (eg. RAMPS vs. Smoothieboard) for a cartesian printer. What are the speed bottlenecks, etc..

@weary lichen im planning on swapping the controller board on the mpsm mini to one with tmc2130 steppers

[weary lichen]

@tribal egret I think you'll run into issues with extrusion/other printing issues before you get to the theoretical limits of the hardware.

@tribal egret I'm planning on modifying mine, eventually, to have dual extruders for two-material printing.

[tribal egret]

@weary lichen nice 😄 i did a few mods over the holidays and feel more comfy with doing some more.. eg. speed, im currently running it at 40mm/s for a minimal worry print

would like to speed it up, get better octoprint controls working (currently have to manually do reconnects for example), better initial print/thermal run off

[weary lichen]

Apparently connect/reconnect is an issue for the MPSM

[tribal egret]

yeah, its not a big deal but also have to turn off the machine from power after each print

I replaced the hotend with one that has a silicon cover and the extruder arm etc for flexible filament support

[weary lichen]

Sounds like you could put in a relay

[tribal egret]

have you seen the reviews on the tmc2130?

[weary lichen]

Heh, flex printing is cool, but I also plan on building a printer of my own design... eventually.

Nope.

I only juuuust got in to 3D printing recently.

Saw someone post about the MPSM being on sale for Cyber Monday and grabbed it then.

[tribal egret]

@weary lichen yeah prolly wont print flexible for a while but had the parts printed a while back so xD

[weary lichen]

Heh, yeah

Are you a part of the FAcebook group?

[tribal egret]

@weary lichen yep, the results for my query didnt result in reliable pros/cons specifically with the new drivers, might be too new still

[south elbow]

@weary lichen you said my printer broke because of heat creep. I think your right. I got an entire new hot end assembly and compared the two pipes. somehow i missed the fack that the plasticy lining in the tube had melted

and it probably happened because the stock heating block never had a screw that secured the thermometer thingo in, so it sometimes fell out.

well, better say thanks man i guess

[weary lichen]

That sounds a little different than heat creep, but at least you solved the issue

Having the thermistor fall out could give you some problems though

The plastic tube on the inside is PTFE, if I remember correctly - Which melts at heat not too far above what the print head operates at

[uncut ledge]

@tribal egret the 2130s are a dream

Tuning current on the fly without fiddling with pots is so nice

Hybrid stepping mode is slick too, you can control the speed threshold to switch to spreadcycle on a whim

The only caveat is hybrid mode has some anomalies

Moving at, say, 75mms with the threshold at 90mms will behave differently than if it were set to 150mms

[tribal egret]

@uncut ledge how fast do you print?

[uncut ledge]

uh

on my machine with tmc's no more than 70mms

the issues i have with hybrid mode are with the extruder, im more of a fringe case

for most people its probably fine

just an anomaly i noticed

[timber niche]

By the way, for anyone wanting to experiment with flexible filaments without spending too much on filament, http://3dprintny.com/ sells samples and small spools. You can get a 15 foot sample for $1.99.

[timber niche]

Also by the way, I created a mini spool for use with those samples: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2342235

[shy kelp]

That's awesome, make a 3d pen mount for that lol

[spring pine]

😃

[violet needle]

Adafruit Industries posted Motion Timelapse for Maker Projects

[crude kettle]

hey everone, I could use some ponters. I'm working on a low cost 3d printer linear system that I want to be accessible for a wide rang of people. An Idea I want to use is using hdpe and sliding martrial. Of couse there are self lubercating plastic, but hdpe is already made to be non-sticky. Current I have done some testing with a mode from melting some in scrap 1/2 conduet. Now I want to find a small squre tube of some kind. Any suggestions?

[dawn ridge]

Hello, I have recently designed and printed out some Rubik's cube pieces. But I have noticed that when I take out all of the support filament, the build plate adhesion is still stuck on the bottom of the piece, making it protrude. Is there any way to get rid of this, or do I just need to modify my slicer settings? I will add the other side for comparison.

[crude kettle]

What adhesion is one your bed?

[dawn ridge]

It is the brim adhesion

[idle crest]

@normal dirge oh try fusion360 http://autode.sk/1Ro3wkb Noe has made a couple of tutorials here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLjF7R1fz_OOVsMp6nKnpjsXSQ45nxfORb

[normal dirge]

awesome, thanks!

[crude kettle]

I nornally go around this by using a raft. Not the ones in the slicer programs. Usally I make a simple raft in some kind of cad software and make it a layer thick so 1 mm. After a print I take the print off and rip the thin raft and smooth the edges with a knife

[spice estuary]

Unfortunately, I can’t use that

[crude kettle]

kind of how people goes about abs without a heated bed

@spice estuary how so?

[spice estuary]

Fusion360 doesn’t work on Linux

[idle crest]

oh maybe blender? https://www.blender.org/download/

[dawn ridge]

@crude kettle Thanks!

[crude kettle]

hey

[spice estuary]

I got Blender & toying with it a little

[crude kettle]

It's a great programe. Tried to make a charater with it. Success!
But only then head due to low ram (laggy as all heck)

@dawn ridge No problem

[spice estuary]

Yea, I don’t have high end editing computer, so lag will be expected, but I got decent amount of ram

[crude kettle]

As long as you are not redering a ton or high details like for faces yo should be fine.

[spice estuary]

Cool, there are a few face I may be doing

But that is local group decided to use a mini bust to compare filament

The high end rendering I may end up pushing is making multiple shapes together

[crude kettle]

should be fine then form there @spice estuary

[spice estuary]

Cool

[cloud halo]

@slim escarp I think I got the same 3D printer as you (Prusia i3 Mk 2s)...and mine is a kit as well. I've been meaning to build it for a while. Would you have any tips or thoughts you could pass along, since you just got done building yours? Any lessons you learned you wish you knew before you began?

[slim escarp]

that is the printer i got! definitely have some tips. not sure if you've ever done a printer build before but this was my 1st and the 1st thing is that it took way longer than i thought it would. probably about 8 hours so i'd definitely leave a day to do it. for the assembly definitely go slower than you may feel inclined to. i found myself inferring some instructions from the pictures rather than reading carefully & sometimes i made mistakes because of that and had to go back a step or two. there are also some steps that mention the meassurements of parts like the rod positions and pinda probe from the bed leveling. i did get a tape measurer and measure these things & it definitely saved a lot of hassle when it came time for leveling. for the electronics the included manual does not have good pictures of the connector positions so definitely refer to the online manual for that step which has really nice photos for that. i also knolled all of the screws and nuts for each step and that definitely helped me to stay organized. overall though it's a good build, i never felt lost during it and it's been printing beautifully. in fact it's running right now 😃

[cloud halo]

@slim escarp Thank you 😃 I was under the impression it'd take closer to 20 hours to build it (not really sure why?). I've never built a 3D printer before, and this is my first experience with the hobby itself. My current gameplan is to read the instructions online, along with the comments people posted.

Thank you for the tips -- one of the things I just broke out was my set of digital calipers. I'm glad it went smoothly, that knowledge by itself is comforting. It's a very expensive first attempt, and I didn't want to feel like I got in over my head.

(getting in over one's head is a great feeling, seriously. you can learn so much from it. but it's anxiety inducing when there's that much money on the table)

[slim escarp]

@cloud halo no problem! & probably best to overestimate in that case haha. I wish you luck with the build. I haven't been printing for very long at all (around 2ish months) and started out w/ a monoprice mini delta which is a really fun & very affordable machine but the prusa has that extra control & ability to tweak things that really makes it an amazing machine. the instructions for bed leveling & flashing the updated firmware are very clear too. Prusa has their own firmware flasher that's super simple & there's a built in wizard for the first time you calibrate everything so no worries there either

[shy kelp]

@weary lichen

Question for octopi

Do you need a usb connection from printer to pi? Or just eifi

[weary lichen]

They live in an aquarium.

[shy kelp]

LOL

[weary lichen]

USB

[shy kelp]

Oh well that's the end of that idea

[weary lichen]

All OctoPi setups I've seen have required USB

[shy kelp]

Mine doesn't have usb port lol

[weary lichen]

Zero?

Er, Pi Zero

[shy kelp]

I meant my print

I bought it without usb port

Figured I never needed it

I guess I could solder in a new one

[weary lichen]

The Mini should have one.

It's a USB-Micro

[shy kelp]

Yeah but I bought one without

It was brokeb

And I figured I never needed it

[weary lichen]

Oh, the USB is broken.

You can get a replacement board, but for that cost you may as well upgrade to a RAMPS board

[shy kelp]

How easy to upgrade to RAMPS?

[weary lichen]

As far as I can tell? Fairly easy.

The problem is, you lose the nice shiny screen

But RAMPS kits are about $30-40

[shy kelp]

Welp out of my budget for now

Will look into it in the future

[weary lichen]

https://www.amazon.com/OSOYOO-Printer-Controller-Stepper-Heatsink/dp/B0111ZSS2O

This one has a nice image on how everything is connected

@shy kelp The V2 mainboard is $50, so RAMPS would definitely be the better thing.

[shy kelp]

Is it mostly. Plug and play?

Or programming is needed?

[weary lichen]

I'm not 100% certain

It LOOKS like you can get the RAMPS board and then drop the Marlin firmware on it

[shy kelp]

So it's LCD text screen now?

[weary lichen]

It's largely designed to be used over USB

Upgrading to Ramps would probably be a subject better suited to the folks on the Mini discord chat. They'd know more than I

[tribal egret]

How is it broken @shy kelp ?

[shy kelp]

There is no port @tribal egret

[tribal egret]

@shy kelp there is no usb port on the pcb either? was it taken out or just nonexistant. you said it was broken?

[shy kelp]

The seller said it was broken

Haven't really looked if it broke off

Might be an easy solder job

[weary lichen]

@tribal egret The Mini has, by default, a USB port built in.

If it's been forcibly physically removed, I'm not sure it can be soldered back on. It probably would have taken the traces with it

[tribal egret]

https://www.mpselectmini.com/_media/parts/mainboard-replacement-mp-select-mini-v1-v2-adjustable-stepper-drivers_wiki-01.jpg

@weary lichen ah yeah. the data lines you could prolly hack into if you are careful

[shy kelp]

How much does a replacement board cost?

[tribal egret]

@shy kelp which model do you have v1 or v2?

@shy kelp if you can wait a while I may sell my board . I think they're $60

going to try and play around with a ramps board and trinamic 2130's X)

[shy kelp]

V1

I'll wait lol

[slim escarp]

I really like this guy's content but I especially liked this video because the art he's making with the 3D printing pens is really impressive. Hadn't really seen a use for them beyond a scribble toy before https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atOZigPE818&t=0s

[weary lichen]

@slim escarp THAT IS COOL

[slim escarp]

@weary lichen isn't it!? My favorite was the Kirby but they're all really awesome. I hope more artists start experimenting with the 3d pens because seems like in the right hands they can do some really cool stuff

[weary lichen]

They really can

I hadn't really considered them for much of anything before, but this guy's taking things to a whole new level.

Literally!

[weary lichen]

Well, 5 hour print set up. Time to sleep.

[south elbow]

every day a new problem arises

today, i think ive finally got the filament grinding problem

a while ago i noticed a couple shards dotted around the block that the throat tube is in

today i checked my print and found a massive coil of thin filament all through the cog area where it pushes filament through

so its like grinding just enough that its cutting its own strip of filament off

and i realised that the hole the filament goes through doesnt actually line up with the guide thing on the extruder

god this is frustrating

[south elbow]

Pic for reference

[timber niche]

@south elbow I suppose you could try using a needle file to flare out the input end throat tube a little. Is there a ptfe tube inside the metal one?

@slim escarp @weary lichen I've also seen people use the 3D pens for attaching 3D printed parts together as a sort of filament glue.

@slim escarp @cloud halo I built my printer, too. It's a Chinese knock-off of a Prusa i3. I hope to get a genuine Prusa in the future. I think there is value in building your own printer as it gets you familar with its construction which is useful when you need to fix or adjust something.

@cloud halo BTW, you mentioned being in northern NJ. I'm in Bergen County myself and there is a maker space here: ttps://www.meetup.com/Bergen-Makerspace/

[slim escarp]

@timber niche yeah it’s definitely come in handy so far for making adjustments. Also takes a bit of the fear or hesitation away to take it apart to check on something

[jovial wedge]

Has anyone tried the Kipper firmware?

It's an add-on to a Raspberry already running Octoprint. You flash your printer with their firmware, and you get quiet motors with printing speeds of 100mm/s, with stock printers.

Here's a calibration cube at 150mm/s. (wait for the first layer...)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2bYn47-snU

And here the github repo. https://github.com/KevinOConnor/klipper

[slim escarp]

@jovial wedge ohh that sounds intriguing

[jovial wedge]

@slim escarp Yeap, speacially since it's a big gain without replacing hardware, it's only a Pi/firmware change.

I'm in some circle of hell with a small CNC I got for x-mas, but as soon as I get out, I plan on testing it on my 2 printrbots.

[slim escarp]

oh nice and i wish you luck with the cnc. i have a monoprice mini delta that may be a good candidate

[jovial wedge]

Thanks.

[cloud halo]

@timber niche Oh very cool! I've actually visited that school (had a job for work there installing some equipment many years ago). I was so impressed at the technology they had for their students (and a little bit jealous to be honest, I wish I had that growing up).

I'm not surprised there's a makerspace at that facility, it's certainly one of the best places to have one.

We went to White Manna for lunch, I remember that day pretty well.

[timber niche]

@cloud halo There's a Boston Market next to the school now. I built my printer in a class they had there. The first day of the class was an all day Saturday session so it was handy to be able to walk next door for lunch.

[cloud halo]

I've never quite had...good experiences...from a Boston Market. I mean, I love Boston. Markets? Totally a fan. Put the two together? um. no thanks 😛

But it is a good location, lots of stuff nearby

[weary lichen]

@cloud halo After the first few "experiences" did you just... Market off your list?

[south elbow]

@timber niche yeah theres a ptfe tube inside it

[timber niche]

@south elbow I wonder if the ptfe tube is not sticking up far enough (close enough to the top). Maybe it could be moved up or maybe you need a slightly longer tube.

[south elbow]

When you insert filament it gets hooked on the top of the ptfe tube and you have to try to get it past it. Only happened with this new one tho.

Does that mean i mightve pushed out the ptfe tube inserting filament? @timber niche

[timber niche]

@south elbow It's possible. I'm just making semi-educated guesses as to what's wrong.

Is there any where to re-align the parts to get a straight shot?

It is usualy a good idea to cut your filament at a sharp angle to make a point on the end you're inserting. That would make it less likely to catch on anything.

[south elbow]

ah ok

[timber niche]

I doubt the ptfe would shave bits off the filament as the metal tube appears to be doing.

[south elbow]

OH

its the tube shaving the filament

[timber niche]

Also, if you're having trouble inserting the filament, you can try twisting it around.

That is what it looks like to me. You could try watching as it prints to see where the filament is geting shaved.

My guess is that there is a sharp edge on the opening of the throat tube which the filament is rubbing against as it is pushed down at a slight offset.

The best solution is probably to adjust so everything is lined up properly.

The next best is probably adjusting the ptfe upward so the filemant only rubs on the ptfe.

[south elbow]

alright, im gonna pull it appart and put a washer between the stepper and the tube block so that it hopefully alligns.

i thought i could just move the guide bearing but apparently i cant

[timber niche]

I'd strongly suggest watching it as it prints first to verify the hypothesis of what is going wrong before taking it apart.

[south elbow]

o

i just finished realigning it

i looked at the filament and it didnt look like the gear was taking it off

[timber niche]

Yeah, I doubt you'd see those long strips being shaved off if it was the grub screw chewwing it up.

[south elbow]

but then again i couldnt actually see where abouts the ground off parts had come off of

nah it wasnt the grub screw

when i first saw it, it was legit a 15cm long flake that was just constantly coming out

[timber niche]

In your picture it looks like the filament was being pushed against the right edge of the troat tube.

[south elbow]

i think your right

[timber niche]

What printer is that, btw?

[south elbow]

i realigned it with washers and have been printing for about 5 mins and nothing so far

Anet A8

the really cheap one

[timber niche]

I think that is very similar to mine.

[south elbow]

thanks man, i never wouldve guessed it was the throat tube

[timber niche]

Basically a Prusa i3 knock-off.

You're welcome.

[south elbow]

yeah

[timber niche]

Mine is no longer bein made.

[south elbow]

oh

[timber niche]

I REALLY want a genuine Prusa next.

[south elbow]

same actually, but its like $900 or something

[simple palm]

Hey

[timber niche]

IS the part holding the idler metal or 3d printed.

I'd buy the kit and build it. The i3 mk3 is $749.

[south elbow]

sup @simple palm

all idler pulleys on it are held on with screws

[simple palm]

Hum I need to know how to make something but ...

I don't know where to post my question ..

[timber niche]

I mean the assembly that moves the idler. It is a 3d printed part on mine, but in your photo it looks like metal.

[jovial wedge]

@simple palm ask away. If here is not the place, we'll tell you where 😃

[south elbow]

OH i know what your talkin bout now

its just acrylic like the rest of the machine

you can 3d print another one if you want and nothing would change

[timber niche]

Ah, ok. It didn't look 3d printed.

[south elbow]

nah but it works

OH

i couldve printed another one with a different offset bit where the pulley attaches to to realign it

but washers work just as good

[timber niche]

I don't know if this would fit your machine, but this was a nice addition to mine: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:871223

[south elbow]

i already printed one but need to get a longer rod to span the gap

[timber niche]

Some have said that an overhead spool holder can contribute to vibration/shaking, but it's been ok for me.

I got a threaded rod at Home Depot. I thinkit's a foot long.

[south elbow]

yeah i can get one, i just havent yet lol

[timber niche]

I found that little spring clamps like these were the easiest thing to hold the rod in place: https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-3-4-in-Mini-Spring-Clamp-80001/100656782

[south elbow]

you used them instead of the nuts that come with everything

[timber niche]

Just on the overhead spool holder. It makes it much easier to change spools. Also, they won't get unscrewed by the spinning of the spool.

I had that happen on the little free-standing spool hiolder.

[cobalt quarry]

@slim escarp Just watched yesterdays video on your 3d printing experiences. Thanks, it is useful. (My 1st printer is due to arrive later this month)

[weary lichen]

@cobalt quarry You got a Prusia, right?

[vast salmon]

the 3D printer what Naomi Wu unboxed it was using slimmer one

[weary lichen]

Did a bit of pricing today. Looks like the dual extruder upgrade for my Mini V2 will be about $90

Which, while expensive, isn't bad considering I'm replacing a significant portion of the hardware

Controller board, extruder stepper, power supply, adding an extruder, replacing the hot end.

I'm going to store the stuff I take out. I intend on building a fully custom printer eventually, and it'll let me restore the Mini V1 and re-use the other parts.

[south elbow]

oh i see, thats pretty neat

[cloud halo]

@slim escarp You do videos on 3D printing?

[weary lichen]

@cloud halo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1_5HX9Wx38

[uncut ledge]

🤔 oh i've seen this person in the other discord

[slim escarp]

@cobalt quarry oh awesome, thanks! glad it was helpful 🙂 and looking forward to seeing what you print!

@cloud halo i make videos on a little bit of everything and i'm just starting to do some stuff on 3d printing. that video that @weary lichen was kind enough to link goes over some issues i've had that are a bit boring but no one really talks about too much

[weary lichen]

Your video was certainly not boring.

[slim escarp]

that sounds awesome @weary lichen about the duel extrusion!

[weary lichen]

Duel extrusion: I'll make them fight!

@slim escarp I do believe there is an easy upgrade kit for multiple materials on the Prusa you have.

[slim escarp]

oh yes been seeing a lot of videos on that kit. looks pretty cool. honestly one of the reasons i went for it was the upgrade options for further down the road. today i was experimenting with color changing in the middle of the print and it went pretty well

[weary lichen]

I don't like the single-extruder multi-material method because it wastes a lot. Dual extrusion also allows for soluble supports

[slim escarp]

true, definitely a downside to it. one thing i've seen though is that the prusa upgrade is more for when you're doing large prints or multiple small ones. the waste block is actually a bit smaller for multiple prints of the same model than if you print just one

[weary lichen]

Yep. I saw a video about it the other day - The purge amount is going to be the same, regardless of how much of that color you use. And there's also the fact that the purge block needs to be maintained for higher layers.

Even if you only use one color for ten layers, you still need to be able to purge for color changes on the next layers.

[slim escarp]

yeah it will be interesting to see if they can streamline it with software or a hardware mod

[weary lichen]

Some of it is just physics, so there's no getting around it. But what you print can really help, too

[slim escarp]

darn physics, always getting in the way

[weary lichen]

We don't need no stinkin' physics! It's just holding us back!

[cobalt quarry]

@weary lichen Yes, the new one

@slim escarp Me too, I have little idea what I’ll do with it. Likely mainly cases for projects.

[slim escarp]

@cobalt quarry yeah that's going to be my main focus. currently printing the enclosure for the OKAY synth kit and it's so amazing to see the case construction come to life. so many possibilities

[cobalt quarry]

@slim escarp I’ll spend a while just printing random stuff to get the feel of the printer.

[slim escarp]

@cobalt quarry definitely yeah that's half the fun. i'm still in that mode a bit. definitely recommend the joelbot model for a stress test once you get it mostly dialed in

[violet needle]

Adafruit Industries posted Cat in a Box (Multi Color) - Time-lapse

[tribal egret]

@weary lichen dual extrusion for soluable supports really opens up the creativity more I think as well. No need to worry so much about the angles of corners and such.

[weary lichen]

Yep. It's the thing I'm most eager for with this mod.

Two colors is "Neat"

If you could solder to conductive filaments, printing a PCB would be super cool, but sadly you can't.

But soluble supports? Now THAT has options!

[tribal egret]

@weary lichen you could mod a 3d printer as a mini-cnc for pcb stuff if you want

[weary lichen]

Eh, the cost for that is a bit and has limitations on what it can do. Easier and cheaper to get a PCB house to make them.

[tribal egret]

yeah wouldnt bother with it myself other than for the learning/building part

[normal dirge]

Hey. Any chance someone can help me make a case for a 2.4” nextion display?

I’ve been trying and failing in tinkercad so far

[spring pine]

I made a tv-b gone case, if you might want to use it for your base... https://www.tinkercad.com/things/a5TCGZBK2Nm

[shy kelp]

@weary lichen do you use the fault web interface on your MP?

[weary lichen]

Not anymore!

[shy kelp]

I just changed mine

[weary lichen]

I uploaded the one linked in the other Discord

[shy kelp]

Same

I love it, there's so many controls, and fast uploading speed

I'm just now trying out my first movie parts print

[normal dirge]

what's the general approach to making lids that are secure to a 3d printed project case?

i always assume screw holes

if that's a solid approach, what's the general technique for creating them? i'm trying out fusion360 now, but it's a bit confusing

[tribal egret]

@normal dirge depends on your use case, I use Fusion 360 and @supple stratus 's tutorials is my Go-To https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjtiWuGUnlI&t=693s

[normal dirge]

Cool I’ll check this out now. Thanks!

Fusion360 seems very cool and easy to use with lots of options. Just wish it were a bit cheaper for the occasional 3D designer 😞

[tribal egret]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8hLVILq3e4&list=PLTCCNNvHC8PC40tcEqaJcgUMb97LNkLIn

@normal dirge https://www.autodesk.com/company/legal-notices-trademarks/terms-of-service-autodesk360-web-services/autodesk-web-services-entitlements

using the "Startup" entitlement, "(b) an individual using the service for personal non-commercial projects, hobbies, or personal learning."

[normal dirge]

What the? So I can get it for free?

How do I apply for that entitlement?

[tribal egret]

@normal dirge https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/How-to-activate-start-up-or-educational-licensing-for-Fusion-360.html

here ya go!

[normal dirge]

@tribal egret thanks!!!

[tribal egret]

@normal dirge np! never used tinkercad myself, just went straight to fusion360 x)

[shy kelp]

So this meshmixer program, it can split a big part into smaller chunks to be able to print a big part on a small printer?

[trim sail]

@weary lichen is there someplace I can find a "how-to" to change the web ui in my V2?

[weary lichen]

It's somewhere on the wiki. I'm at work so it'll take a few mins

[trim sail]

No hurry... I'm retired, so what;s a few [ minutes | hours | ? ]

[shy kelp]

@trim sail

https://www.mpselectmini.com/sample_webui

[tribal egret]

@normal dirge have you seen:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2259101 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2103346 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1183191 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2245148 https://www.itead.cc/wiki/Nextion_HMI_Solution#3D_printing_bezel

all of these are for the nextion 2.4"

[normal dirge]

@tribal egret yea, unfortunately none of them suit my needs 😦

i tried printing the second one without success

i want something like the first one, but with room for a wifi feather behind it, and only a slot for the usb, along with holes for mounting on the wall

don't know how to adapt existing designs

so thought i'd need to start from scratch

[uncut ledge]

you guys like the nextion?

i had a project that used the 5" one

aside from it using very few pins, it wasn't an enjoyable thing to work with

[violet needle]

Adafruit Industries posted Bob Omb (Multi-Color) – Timelapse

[trim sail]

@shy kelp @weary lichen Did you folks use the MYLAN demo UI code, or something creative and original. I used it, but made a few simple mods. I kinda like the temp graphs... not too sure what I'll use them for other than bewilderment and awe. And the "movement" is not something I thought I needed in a GUI.

[rapid steppe]

I love that Bob-omb.

[brittle oxide]

Hi folks. Sorry @idle crest and @supple stratus I’m in the airport about to board. I’ll catch up later

I’d still love for you to join us Feb3 in Kissimmee for the ATIA Maker Day

[violet needle]

Adafruit Industries posted 3D Hangouts – Physics, Thermal Cams and Timelapses

[glass cairn]

Hay gang. does anyone know why all my prints have been turning out like this?

The pot is supposed to be nice & smooth.

[crude kettle]

What filament is that and how many shells and infill'

[glass cairn]

Maker select PLA, 2 shells, & 20% infill. I've varied the infill, tried it with 3 shells, thickening each shell, varied the print temp & bed temp. It's being printed on a Maker Select V2 slicing with Cura 3.1.0. Right before I started having this problem I printed a Baby Groot with the same role of PLA & it turned out perfectly, right down to the fine details. Only dif that I can figure is that baby groot was sliced using an old ver of Cura, that I deleted when I installed this new ver of Cura. I did make sure that it has all of the same setting that the old ver of Cura had. Could Cura be the issue?

@crude kettle

[crude kettle]

Sounds like it alright. Try a small print like a flate key chain(to save filament) to test it. If it's the case try the old cura agian and compare.

[glass cairn]

ok, I haven't been able to find ver 2.5 that I got when I got the printer but I just finished reinstalling ver 3.0.3 and will try it with that. Thanks

[glass cairn]

Go figure @crude kettle , it's only one percent in (went with a dancing groot cause if it failed it has a small foot print, but if it worked, lol well it's a dancing groot. 😃 But so far so good no signs of issue. "knock on Groot" He he.

[crude kettle]

post a pic when it's done @glass cairn

[timber niche]

That looks like possible underextrusion to me.

Could your hobb gear be slipping?

[glass cairn]

I will @tepid wing , still going good. We're at 37% & he's growing nicely. 😃 I'm not sure what the hobb gear is @timber niche , but would it be effected be just a change in software? Cause it seams to have just been my trying to use the Cura 3.1.0 that was messing me up. Which I guess it would make sense, the software would make a difference wouldn't it? I do remember that I did have the extrusion set at 100%. I wonder if the software just wasn't configured well enough to allow the printer to extrude at a full 100% even though it was set "saying" 100%. Has anyone else had similar issues with using Cura ver 3.1.0?

[weary lichen]

Well, I'll be receiving my RAMPS board kit tomorrow, and also the stuff I need for the bed re-wire for the Mini V2. Not sure if I'll be tackling that right away, but I've got the rest of the stuff I need for putting the Chimera dual extruder on it on order. But those will take a while to get here.

[uncut ledge]

wew chimera

pick up a bottle of advil while you're out

[weary lichen]

You're saying it'll be a headache?

[uncut ledge]

most likely

[weary lichen]

Sounds about right.

I know I'll have to design and print a mount for it.

Figure out how I'll be mounting the second extruder stepper motor. Replacing the default extruder stepper, as well. I picked up two, so that they would match.

And beyond that, I'll have to design and build a filament holder that hopefully won't tip the whole thing over.

[tribal egret]

!!!exciting 😃

@weary lichen keep me updated! would like to do the same eventually..

will you stream it?

[weary lichen]

@tribal egret Hah! I don't have the equipment even if I wanted to.

[timber niche]

@glass cairn It could be just an software issue. Actually I'm not sure if hobb gear is the most correct term, but I've heard it used. I mean the gear in the extruder that advances the filament. I had an issue once where the set screw got loose and the gear was slipping,causing under extrusion.

[glass cairn]

Good morning, Good morning,,, Gooooddd morning! All of you wonderful makers! (And no I don't wake up THAT cheerful, but life is what we illustrate to be right?) @timber niche I haven't checked the set screw, I'll check it after I'm more functional, tho I don't think it is the culprit here. I tried printing another Groot last night n it seamed to extrude well with using Cura ver 3.0.3.

Lol, that is until it didn't go so well.

I'm guessing the center piece broke loose & it moved around in the out pot, which was still stuck to the bed. Making for an interesting happening. That center section in between the good print & the mass chaos. It actually printed a solid appearingly translucent section that looks like it could actually function as a proper light pipe.

@Techmorfic#9428 That's how it turned out. @supple stratus @idle crest I'm not sure on how exactly my machine managed to print that accidental light pipe but it is 7.72mm thick and was printed with 1.75mm clean filament. Have you guys ever come across printing a solid section of plastic like that? Could be able to print custom designed light pipes, that is if you can figure out how purposely duplicate this mistake.

@crude kettle

And then again maybe not. I just cut my failed Groot apart & tried putting that section on a light and it didn't carry the light through much at all. Certainly no were near as well as what I expected that it would.

[gray raven]

That feeling when your large print first layer goes down without a hitch... 🤑

[tribal egret]

@gray raven https://i.imgur.com/ZK9vQtt.png

[night kraken]

Anyone here have a Anet A8 printer?

[spring pine]

nope

[weary lichen]

@night kraken I haven't heard of anyone here having that printer. Are you having an issue with it? We might be able to help anyway.

[latent smelt]

What is a good starter 3d printer that wont break the bank? I probably just need to print small enclosures and other parts. Also, is there like a mr fusion 3d printer where I just dump old plastic bottles into it and it magically uses that as print material? TIA

[night kraken]

@weary lichen Well, my issue is, whenever im calibrating it, i make it to go home (works) but when i let it go up on the Z axis, the left motor tends to hang, and the right motor just turns, which means its getting an really odd angle and cant move back anymore because of that angle....

What happens when the Z endstop gets touched, the Z axis goes up a bit, then down again, makes somes some noise that he cant move further but the motor keeps spinning for like 1 second, while the endstop is pushed in....

I already tracked the wiring and everything looks fine to me...

[night kraken]

i found out the problem with the Z axis, now just the printing has a problem, when i tell it to print a file, it just stays still and starts spitting out PLA lol

[weary lichen]

@night kraken Are you printing from an SD card or directly from the computer?

[night kraken]

SD Card

[supple stratus]

@glass cairn interesting, is that regular PLA filament? That reminds me of the t-glase filament http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-features.html haven't gotten around to actually using it in practice (other than using a piece of the bare filament in this switch grip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hxBi2F-7d4 )

[vast salmon]

@idle crest now that if you do the controller for tesla via that PSmodule control and there is Powerchell Core

https://blogs.msdn.microsoft.com/powershell/2018/01/10/powershell-core-6-0-generally-available-ga-and-supported/

@supple stratus naomi wu tested strong pla filament with glue but as it was smaller nozzle it proke with 3 times 2 with one glue and 1 with other glue

[low shore]

Hey guys. I have a project I'm working on that I can use a hand with. It's a 3D model of a modern take on the Assassins Creed blade. I'm struggling to print where I have a curved bottom sitting on top of a support generated by the out of the box Prusa software. http://bit.ly/2qYrZGZ. I'm thinking of just making it a flat bottom to print straight off the printer bed. I'd appreciate your help.

[weary lichen]

@low shore I've never had a "good" bottom surface when printing from supports. I'd recommend splitting it into pieces so that there's always some flat bottom to print

[low shore]

Cut off the curve and glue it back later. Thanks Andon. Feels good that I'm not alone either 😉

[tribal egret]

@weary lichen are you doing two extruder heads for your conversion?

[oak pewter]

@low shore It kinda looks like a Drone knife, so I'd say you got the "modern" vibe down

[weary lichen]

@tribal egret Yep. I'll be putting the Chimera (or a clone, at least) on

[night kraken]

Hey guys, that happens alot when i print

people say its because of the temps, im printing at 200/50 (extruder/heatbed)

are my cura settings maybe wrong?

Look how ugly my prints are lol

[night kraken]

I put my Hotbed at 40 degrees for PLA now

and its still warping, might this because the tape on the bottom is like, overlapping each other?

[weary lichen]

I print with a 55ish bed

What's the room temp like? Are there drafts?

[night kraken]

I put the extruder on 200 and the bed at 40

the room temp is 22 celsius

i adjusted the height of the hotbed

i printed it with a brim of 8mm and the brim started to warp

but the inner didnt warp

[night kraken]

well rip... my printer doesnt heat the extruder anymore

[untold urchin]

@night kraken are you sure you using PLA... And not ABS and what kind of filament are you using? Like brand

[uncut ledge]

For PLA I print with the bed at 60 lol

[silent veldt]

@night kraken you should be able to replace the hot end

[silent veldt]

What do you usually use to do the CAD work?

[night kraken]

Well i use Cura

my hotend works again, so i had to improvise on the hotend cables... Because the connector wasnt on there when i got it, anyway, im using 200/70>60 now and recalibrated my bed, its going awesome now! :D

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt I use FreeCad. It works well for the mechanical end of things, which is what I do.

[silent veldt]

The problem I'm trying to solve is cut down a test tube model to fit into my build volume.

I've downloaded a design I like from thingiverse, but it's too big.

[weary lichen]

Most slicers can scale it down

[silent veldt]

@weary lichen I don't want it scaled. The slots for the test tubes have to stay the same dimensions. I just want to reduce the model from 7 slots to 4 slots. That should bring the log axis under the 90mm that I have to work with.

[weary lichen]

90mm? TINY printer

What printer do you have?

[silent veldt]

Monoprice select mini v2

[weary lichen]

120mm x 120mm x 120mm

(Says my V2 sitting upstairs)

[silent veldt]

I'm willing to believe you are correct.

[weary lichen]

Still probably too small for your object

[silent veldt]

However 134mm still is too long.

[weary lichen]

I know some people overstate their bed size just fine, but I'm not sure it's that much

[silent veldt]

I took the dimensions on the test tubes, I know I need 13mm circles, and I want to fit 4 of them.

So I guess I could start learning to use SketchUp or something.

[weary lichen]

Test tubes are exactly 13mm around?

How tall?

[shy kelp]

Are these cylindrical test tubes?

Just really long 13mm x 135mm tubes?

[silent veldt]

12.8mm outer diameter with a little bit of extra thickness where they are printed on.

[weary lichen]

Link to the rack you want to print?

[silent veldt]

it was 12.91m or something.

So, 13 mm holes should give it a little play. Maybe I should scale them to 14mm, actually, given that my printer can't quite manage 0.2mm lateral tolerance with the filiment I have.

85.1mm long, 84.3mm depth, flat bottom cylindrical, inner diameter of 11.3mm

According to my digital calipers.

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt I might be able to make something for you. Are you looking for single-piece print or is multi-piece OK?

[silent veldt]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004484

Honestly, I'm just trying to learn about design.

Well, no.

What I'm trying to do is print a testtube holder because my GF wants one for all the aquarium testing.

Because I needed to print off something demonstrably useful.

And I don't have the M2.5 and M3 screws to screw together any of the board cases.

[weary lichen]

It's entirely possible to make a multi-piece design that wouldn't need any hardware.

[silent veldt]

I printed off the Maker's Muse tolerance tester that doubles as a bearing-free fidget spinner.

[weary lichen]

Hah! Me too

[silent veldt]

But I cut my bed surface in trying to use a utility knife to remove the PLA.

So, eventually I'm going to have to replace that.

[weary lichen]

Well.

No surface really goes forever

[silent veldt]

anyway, the critical dimension is the length of that test tube rack.

Or, width, rather.

Somewhere I'm sure there's an STL editor that would let me chop 3 tubes out of the middle, and I expect I would be golden.

According to Cura, it won't fit into my build volume.

[uncut ledge]

print it at an angle

[weary lichen]

@uncut ledge There's no way that thing is being printed at an angle.

It's just too long.

Was just fiddling with it myself.

[uncut ledge]

its only 14cm on a 120mm bed right?

[weary lichen]

It's also really wide, too

[silent veldt]

It's a beefy part.

Which isn't bad, I'd like it to be stable.

[weary lichen]

But there's no horses on it

[silent veldt]

Hay!

[uncut ledge]

you can probably shorten the height a bit and it would work the same?

[weary lichen]

Not a matter of height.

[uncut ledge]

may help with finagling it onto the bed

[weary lichen]

Actually....

Hmm, no.

[silent veldt]

oh FFS.

I updated my Cura.

Which means it probably forgot my machine settings.

No, that seems OK.

@weary lichen Have you formatted another MicroSD card for this machine?

[weary lichen]

I have not

FAT32, I think?

[silent veldt]

I've tried to get it to read FAT-16 on an 8GB card, but it was not a happy camper.

Mine didn't read FAT-32

The 128MB card is FAT-16

So, yeah, I have enjoyed printing things off, but this is definitely making me think about saving up for a Prussa i3 MK3.

And if I had many dollars, cheap power, and a large well-ventilated workspace, I'd probably want to get an Ultimaker 3, a Form 2, etc.

Though, I guess there's a $300 machine that's pretty good?

Because I want to build a RepRap so I don't feel completely failed at open source.

[weary lichen]

I'm upgrading the V2, then going to build a RepRap for larger prints.

[uncut ledge]

i cloned a part for someone printed on a fortus using my v2

they're practically identical

[silent veldt]

There's a lot to be said for them.

[uncut ledge]

(my seams look better though)

select v2 though, not the mini

don't know much about those

[silent veldt]

@uncut ledge They won an award from Make Magazine for being very good for a $220 printer.

Ah, right, the Creality CR-10.

Not that I have a cubic meter to give over to a printer.

Maybe 90mm is the print speed? Though I thought it was 50mm

Ah, well, bedtime. @weary lichen thanks for looking into it!

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt I'll have it done in about 10 minutes...

[silent veldt]

oh! Well, then thank you!

[weary lichen]

Actually

Probably less

[silent veldt]

Can you put it up on Thingiverse?

[weary lichen]

Just re-doing the feet

Yep

I just got distracted because someone on Twitter decided to call me a nerd, as though it were an insult.

[silent veldt]

Because the problem I'm trying to solve is holding the aquarium test tubes for a common aquarium testing kit.

While we're doing the testing.

It's probably going to come out in purple PLA.

And at some point I want to get the WiFi turned on and get a bigger SD card in there.

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2757727

[silent veldt]

You're a prince!

@weary lichen Thank you!

[weary lichen]

They're 14mm diameter sleeves, slightly increased from the base file's 13mm

Just because I know my printer tends to print slightly small

[silent veldt]

yeah. I work only in PLA so far, and at least shrinkage hasn't been a problem.

At 0.2m layer height, and 10% infill, it should only take 4-5 hours.

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt Have you seen the "Magic Numbers" for the V2?

[silent veldt]

I have, but I don't have them set.

Don't remember where they are.

[weary lichen]

0.175 is what I use as layer height usually

They're multiples of 0.04375

[shy kelp]

Fun fact, if you don't mind me interrupting: you can actually get layers down to 0.04375/3 on the Mini V2, but rounding sometimes causes errors.

[uncut ledge]

i print at 0.4 layers on my other machine 😂

[weary lichen]

@shy kelp So, roughly layer height of 0.014583? Tiny!

[silent veldt]

of course they are on stack exchange.

[shy kelp]

Yep! It's absurd. Unfortunately, because of the rounding issue, there's a chance you might end up with the stepper skipping.

[weary lichen]

How low can it print without rounding issues?

[shy kelp]

0.04375mm, as you stated before

Provided, of course, your slicing software allows it to get that small.

[silent veldt]

I don't need it that small for this purpose.

[weary lichen]

@shy kelp What sort of issues arise from stepper skipping?

[shy kelp]

Most obviously it can cause a little bump in the flow rate

Can also cause the coordinates to become ever so slightly off, depending on how much it skips.

[weary lichen]

I doubt I'd need to print anything with that fine details.

[shy kelp]

I doubt anyone would on a mpsm

[silent veldt]

Maybe some of the RepRap parts

[uncut ledge]

there's no way you'd get a decent looking print out of that layer height lol

[weary lichen]

I'm thinking something like HeroForge minis might benefit from super-low layer height, but the X/Y accuracy makes it a bit much.

[uncut ledge]

well, I should say extremely unlikely

[shy kelp]

There's no real reason to print at that small of a layer height, especially with .4mm nozzle. It's just an interesting technical limitation.

[weary lichen]

No need to be like Jurrasic Park. Just because you CAN doesn't mean you SHOULD

[silent veldt]

Shouldn't there also be a step size for the x and y axies then?

[shy kelp]

The issue with that is the size of the nozzle

[silent veldt]

I guess I could mount a 0.3 or a 0.25

[shy kelp]

Then again, so is the layer height issue, but it's not as obvious

[weary lichen]

Or a 0.1 if you're crazy

[silent veldt]

I mean, I guess.

I'm just getting into this, got the printer around Thanksgiving in the USA.

so, late november.

[shy kelp]

nice, dude

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt Did you get it on Cyber Monday from Amazon too?

[silent veldt]

Nah, ordered directly from Monoprice. With a 1kg spool of filament, it was $208 shipped.

$30 off coupon on getting the white one instead of the black one.

Then I bought another $80 in filament and spare nozzle from Monoprice, so they have made out on me.

[weary lichen]

I bought from Amazon, was $165, then another $22 for a thing of Hatchbox PLA

My parents got me two more spools of PLA for Christmas, too.

[shy kelp]

@silent veldt you were asking about x/y axis limits?

[silent veldt]

yeah

[shy kelp]

Got bored and calculated it, 0.010795mm

[silent veldt]

Wow, so you did well.

[shy kelp]

I'd hope so. Still an absurd number.

There's still no way you'd get a nozzle that would make that useful.

[silent veldt]

fair enough.

[south elbow]

Hey all, im nearly out of filament again so need to order some more. I just wanna ask, whats a good filament to use? Ive only used PLA so far and am looking for something different to try. Something thats strong and not as flexible, and can be used in the Anet A8

[silent veldt]

@weary lichen I'm running off a calibration cube in the new filament, then I'm going to run off the test tube rack. 😃

[tribal egret]

thanks @supple stratus for that awesome new 3d printing video tutorial! I really like how it complements the learn guide + electronics how to videos. 👏🏻 👏🏻 🙇🏻

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt Let me know how it turns out

[uncut ledge]

@south elbow PETG

And what do you mean not as flexible? PLA is very rigid but not very durable or strong

[silent veldt]

print in progress!

[silent veldt]

print still in progress.

I tried to get some video but I clearly don't do that for a living. 😃

[weary lichen]

My printer's in a spot where video from my phone ends up super dark

Doesn't help that the printer is black

[uncut ledge]

I have a large black frame and gantry with a mirror bed

there's no hope for any camera on mine

[silent veldt]

Print successful!

Tried to take some pictures.

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt Does it fit the tubes well?

[silent veldt]

I haven't tried that yet.

I did a little cleanup.

[weary lichen]

Cleanup is always useful. How'd the drain holes print?

[silent veldt]

They are a little stringy but I ran a needle through them.

I might need to push a rod through there.

What did you dimension them to?

And, I'm running off the default cat in purple filiment.

[weary lichen]

I think it's 1.5mm diameter for the little holes.

[silent veldt]

OK. Maybe I can drill it if I wanted to.

I have some pictures on my phone.

I need to get them into thingiverse

[normal dirge]

hi all....so i got this awesome epaper weather kit, and there's a case for it on thingiverse

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2598580

i tried printing it on my makergear m2, but it came out very flimsy

[gray raven]

Dang, pretty large screen.

[normal dirge]

the front of the case was so thin it warped when i took it off the bed (maybe i didn't let it cool long enough?) and the "pins" inside that connect the front to the back broke off almost immediately

is there something like, really firm and solid objects need 100% infill?

what other settings determine "strength" of a print?

[gray raven]

@normal dirge I'd say you're probably looking for more top and bottom layers with that print to make it stronger

[normal dirge]

can u elaborate? 😃

how do i control that?

[gray raven]

Are you printing in PLA, ABS, other?

[normal dirge]

PLA

using Simplify3D

[gray raven]

Oh nice, let me get a screenshot of the exact screen. One sec

https://cl.ly/2w1l1R043a2G

So the 3, 3, 2 I have there for "Top Solid Layers" bottom and outline would be bumped higher if I were printing that

So right now with 3 solid top layers at .2 layer height, I'm looking at .6 mm of solid layers... I'd double that to 1.2mm for something I wanted to be strong that was thin.

[normal dirge]

so 3,3,2 and the 1.2?

[gray raven]

I'd do 6, 6, 3 personally

[normal dirge]

im so naive, beyond speed, raft, and supports, i have no clue what the other settings are for 😦

any good online classes?

ok, so 6, 6, 3 and the 1.2?

(just want to make sure im getting it correctly)

[gray raven]

I found this dude named Thomas on Youtube that had killer vids

The 1.2? For layer height? No, I'd keep that between 0.1 and 0.3 but changing that means you change you layer count

So what you are seeing is that "Primary Layer Height" is how tall (or I guess wide) each individual layer line is.

[normal dirge]

ok gotcha, so .2, and 6, 6, 3

[silent veldt]

Maybe PLA isn't the best material for this purpose?

[gray raven]

So if your goal is to get 1.2 mm, you multiply your layer height by the number of layers til you get 1.2

So at 0.2 it's 6, 6, 3. At 0.1 it's 12, 12, 6

[normal dirge]

ahhh

ok, gotcha

thank u!

[gray raven]

Def

[normal dirge]

@silent veldt ABS would be better for this type of thing?

can u tutor me on why?

[silent veldt]

I'm really new at this too.

[gray raven]

ABS has much higher material strength in general

But it's prone to warping and requires much better controlled temp situations. Some regions that are really cold could even use enclosures.

[silent veldt]

PLA is brittle. Which is fine for what I've been doing, where material strength isn't a big requirement.

Like the test-tube holder I just printed out.

5 hours and 40 minutes on my printer.

Even at 10% infill.

[gray raven]

I have a couple of Raspberry Pi cases in PLA. Hatchbox PLA and they are tough enough. I mean, you won't be able to throw that in a bag of crap and expect it not to crack but if it's mostly just a house accessory, I'd say it's fine

[normal dirge]

and how do u know what infill % to use?

and how does speed affect it? like on a makergear m2 that can go very fast, is slower always better?

[gray raven]

On infill, for me it's a balance between how long do I want to spend printing vs end strength.

[normal dirge]

so is 100% the strongest?

[gray raven]

100% is basically a solid block of plastic. You could look at it as having all solid layers for your print.

[normal dirge]

so for a thin case like this wouldn't 100% be best?

or are there diminishing returns on strength?

[gray raven]

There are. Also, the infill patterns provide some engineered strength.

So I personally would never print anything at 100%

[weary lichen]

@normal dirge For a thin case like that, infill might not even come into effect depending on number of shell layers you have

[gray raven]

The different infill patterns have different characteristics for strength too.

[normal dirge]

ok...so tomorrow morning (printer is at work...i built a maker space at my office for everyone!), i'll try 20% infill, 80mm/s, and 6, 6, 3 for the layer counts

[gray raven]

I kinda agree with Andon for the top but I think more than 20% would be my suggestion

[normal dirge]

30? 50?

i'll try what u say and let u know the results

[gray raven]

Personally, I'd go with 50% honeycomb for the base enclosure and 75% honeycomb for the faceplate.

But don't just take my word for it. Each printer is diff

And 50/75 is very strength focused so it will take time to print

😄

[normal dirge]

i forgot that the guy who designed the case wrote back to me on twitter

No special settings needed, I have printed it with an Ultimaker 2:

• Layer height: 0.1mm
• shell thickness: 0.4 mm
• Bottom/top thickness: 0.6 mm
• Fill density: 15%

[gray raven]

Going from 0.2mm to 0.1mm basically doubles your time. For an enclosure, seems a bit excessive unless it's in a high traffic area or something.

[weary lichen]

@gray raven I have to say, honeycomb infill also looks cool.

[gray raven]

Lol, it's def my favorite except for that lattice one some splicers have.

[silent veldt]

@weary lichen the test tubes fit

[weary lichen]

Awesome!

[normal dirge]

k...still looking for someone to help me design a case for something else 😃

how do i find a freelancer to do a design?

[weary lichen]

@normal dirge What do you need a case for?

[normal dirge]

that nextion display....i don't like any of the options out there

i want something that fits it perfectly (as small as possible), with just enough depth to put a feather huzzah behind it

[weary lichen]

Do you have a link to exactly which display it is?

[normal dirge]

https://www.itead.cc/nextion-nx3224t024.html

https://www.itead.cc/wiki/images/a/ad/2.4''_Nextion_Dimension.pdf

my "vision" is to hang this (in a case) on a wall, with a wire cover tube thing going down the wall, for a nice wall mounted home automation controller

[weary lichen]

I'm assuming you need room for the cables at the base as well

Does the feather huzzah have headers or no?

[normal dirge]

@weary lichen (sorry, putting 2y/o to sleep)....yes...i was thinking a cutout at the button for the usb plug, and to make it "sturdier", maybe it'd be best to do a small cutout area and place one of those micro usb breakouts (i've seen noe and pedro do that once or twice), so that gets fixed into place, and then the feather (no headers) can be "floating" inside, the screen fixed in place by the screw holes

[weary lichen]

No promises, especially about time, but I might be able to make something.

[normal dirge]

awesome, i'd be appreciative for anything! thanks!

[vast salmon]

@supple stratus @idle crest should that eg2-d2 be more e2-g2

[violet needle]

Adafruit Industries posted Fusion 360 Tutorial – Easy Snap Fit Cases!

[night kraken]

Anyone know why this layer is so thin?

got it, my bed was wrong... randomly didnt know that would happen lol

[night kraken]

Wth is happening ?! https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/319864049527422976/402879431896596491/IMG_20180116_183827.jpg

it worked all fine and it just starts acting up coming out on top of the extruder

[weary lichen]

@night kraken Looks like heat creep, and things not being on quite right.

You'll have to take a look at Google for fixes - I've never personally dealt with it

[night kraken]

Yeah and my Y motor is broken

it makes horrible noise now when it moves

i cant even find somewhere to buy a new Y axis motor

like, google is empty with it

im getting so frustrated after only been able to use it for 2 days

[weary lichen]

What printer? Probably a NEMA 17 motor

[night kraken]

Anet A8

i bought an Nema 17 motor 😄

Btw, is it normal that my extruder holes dont line up?

https://i.gyazo.com/89cda34a0223a32788529ca018f8f357.png

Thats how it actually looks like for me inreal

[shy kelp]

That is a beautiful image

[night kraken]

thanks 😄

I tried my best :3

i have to deassemble my extruder everytime when i want to put in a new Filament

[weary lichen]

@night kraken Can tou get a picture of your extruder?

I'm really not sure what you mean by that picture.

[night kraken]

the filament is missing the hole

its going right next to the hole when pushing it in

i have to deassemble the extruder, push it in manually, and put it all back together

not really rewarding when its 200 degrees hot...

[weary lichen]

More accurately, I'm not sure what sort of extruder setup you have

[night kraken]

Let me see if i can get a pic

one sec

https://i.gyazo.com/54f721472e6384d58b31a8d6b33cd444.png
This one, from the side

because the filament is on a reel, i cant push it in right into the hole

because its 'bend'

[weary lichen]

Dumb question, but: You're pressing down on the lever, right? That should move the silver wheel on the left up and over some. Put the filament through both holes, then release the lever.

[night kraken]

Yeah haha

i am 😛

[weary lichen]

As said, dumb question, but just wanted to be sure.

[night kraken]

https://i.gyazo.com/102755c54d9eaf1d50b8458734b4e05e.png

it acts like that

completely missing the bottom hole

[silent veldt]

that's really obnoxious.

[night kraken]

it is 😦

have to take it apart everytime while its still hot

burned myself twice now haha

[weary lichen]

@night kraken Before I run off to D&D night, might I suggest looking into one of the modifications that are recommended for using flex filament? They usually extend the bottom tube to where it goes practically right up into the two wheels, allowing no movement of the filament.

[night kraken]

oh really?

mhm

[compact meadow]

@supple stratus @crystal ravine When you all do time-lapse, are you using GoPro? is so, which model? and does it save the time-lapse in one video file? or is there an additional process?

[violet needle]

Adafruit Industries posted 3D Hangouts – Heatmaps, Cookies and Stories

[night kraken]

Does anyone know if its much of a difference on what stepper motor i use? I mean, i bought the Nema 17 42BYGH47-401A

But the Anet A8 uses the NEMA 17 SL42STH40-1684A

will this be an issue?

[weary lichen]

You'll have to calibrate it

[night kraken]

mhm?

[weary lichen]

Different motors have different numbers of steps. I'm not 100% sure on the methodology of how you're supposed to calibrate it, but you run a gcode to tell it what the steps per mm for the motor is (I think), and then it's best to print a test item, measure it, and then figure out how far off it is from what it's supposed to be. Then you can figure out how many steps that motor actually is and send another gcode command to adjust it accordingly

[night kraken]

ohgod

looks like a classic case of return item and get new one

[weary lichen]

You'd still ahve to do the same even if it's an "identical" motor to what's on the A8, to get good prints

[night kraken]

really...

pfft

but will it be wrong when i plug it in the first time, and look if it works?

like if it actually does it right

[weary lichen]

Not sure. Let me check

The two steppers look quite similar

So it should be a matter of install, print, make sure everything is working right, and then do calibration.

[night kraken]

im searching on calibrating a stepper motor

but there isnt that much of tutorials about it haha

[weary lichen]

Search for "Calibrating 3D printer" and you'll find plenty

[night kraken]

I found this

looks legit, http://print.theporto.com/posts/how-to-calibrate-your-3d-printer-for-accurate-printing/

Alright thanks again, 😛

[silent veldt]

So here's my question:

Is there a RepRap design that I could print in PLA on my Select Mini V2, to bootstrap myself to a larger build volume?

[weary lichen]

@silent veldt The answer is, of course, "Yes" but I have no idea what it'd be.

There's always going to be additional hardware to purchase, though

How much larger of a build volume are you going for?

[silent veldt]

I've been poking around, and there's a highly printed design.

But it needs 150mm in a couple dimensions.

[weary lichen]

Yeah, that's the annoying problem.

[jolly silo]

I just got a 3d printer and there already is something on the print bed, is that ok?

[weary lichen]

Honestly, if you're not aiming for a super-huge volume, there's $200-250-ish printers with a moderately larger build volume you can get. Or you can do some mods to the V2 to increase build volume.

[jolly silo]

It's a 3d printed butterfly

Don’t know how to take it off

[weary lichen]

Thin scraper will get under the edge and pull the whole thing up

[jolly silo]

Ok

Nice little gift for buying the printer, I guess

Oh good, it comes with a scraper

[silent veldt]

@weary lichen The thing for me is that I could keep bootstrapping the frame up.

Go from PLA frame components from the MPSM v2

to a bigger build volume and a V6 hot end.

[weary lichen]

You'd have to continually replace things like z-axis rods and x/y axis belts and rods, if you change build size

And they're often the more expensive parts

[silent veldt]

The most heavily printed model doesn't need belts.

[weary lichen]

What does it use?

[silent veldt]

https://github.com/revarbat/snappy-reprap/tree/release_1.1j

The teeth are printed into the bed carrier.

this is maybe a little clearer.

https://github.com/revarbat/snappy-reprap/wiki/v2.0-Home

[violet needle]

Adafruit Industries posted Egg2-D2 – 3D Printing Timelapse

[south elbow]

K im gonna get a roll of Nylon because my main printer use is for functional mechanical parts for projects. But i need to know wether the hot end assembly can actually print it. It says i can print ABS (210-250) but Nylon is a lil bit hotter than that (240-260). I had to buy a replacement hot end and the seller (ebay purchase) says it has a throat pipe with teflon lining and a PTFE lined barrel, other than that its the same as out of the box.

Its an Anet A8 btw

And if i cant, what do i need to be able to?

and if i do need an E3D v6, will this cheap one from ebay work? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/E3D-V6-Extruder-For-Makerbot-Reprap-3D-printer-1-75mm-Metal-J-head-Hotend/192405727761?hash=item2ccc466a11:g:WIIAAOSwE0JY-Vmv

[jolly silo]

my 3d printer manual says you need to download cura from their website, but it isn't on there

Can I just download from ultimaker?

The one in the book says it's version 15.04.2

I just got the newer one

But the 3d printer I need to slect isn't there

It says I need to select Prusa Mendel i3

Is just prusa i3 ok?

[weary lichen]

@jolly silo I THINK so.

Also, for everyone: https://twitter.com/AndonRT/status/954105636643594240

Andon (@AndonRT)

Porgius Primus

Twitter

[jolly silo]

Well I know what I'm printing first

And if it helps solve my question, I'm using a Monoprice Maker Select V2

[vast salmon]

omg Porg

https://giphy.com/gifs/hyperrpg-star-wars-pencils-and-parsecs-3o7aCWilym9nS7Q2I0

[night kraken]

@weary lichen Received my stepper motor, found out it was the wrong one because it was too big, (too long)

just send it back, now waiting for mine coming from China haha

[weary lichen]

One from China an exact replacement?

Also, man does waiting for stuff from China suck. So slow!

[night kraken]

Yeah it does haha, well they specify it as an Anet axis stepper motor haha

looked like the same 😛

[night kraken]

Its this one https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_540282.html

[shy kelp]

Lol I want to print a gear box with a weird reduction

But I'm afraid things won't fit and it'll be a huge waste of plastic

[jolly silo]

So my printer isn’t reading my SD card

Does anyone know what might be wrong?

[shy kelp]

@jolly silo does your computer read it?

[jolly silo]

Yes, it does

It's the SD card that came with the printer and has a bunch of samples on it

[shy kelp]

I heard the SD card that comes with it is trash and corrupts easily

have you tried formating it?

[jolly silo]

I'll do that

I should take the gcode files off it though, right?

[shy kelp]

if you want to keep them

Try loading one of the gcode files into gcode.ws

Thats a goos way to test if the contents are corrupted

your computer using Win10?

[jolly silo]

Yes

what is gcode.ws?

[shy kelp]

cool website to load gcode files, tells you ETA to print

aswell as palstic usage

[jolly silo]

Thanks!

[shy kelp]

lol do you mind helping me with something @jolly silo ?

[jolly silo]

Sure

[shy kelp]

My Win10 laptop isnt reading SD cards

It detectects is, even makes a sound when plugged in

troubleshooter finds nothing, Ive tried 4 different sd cards so it's not that

Any idea what the problem may be?

[jolly silo]

I really don't know

Maybe the sd card port itself is broken

Physically broken

[shy kelp]

It works fine with Linux as an OS

I think it's an OS problem

when I load linux on it it works flawlessly

Welp My printer just became unusable lol rip

[jolly silo]

Can it see the SD card

Like, is it there?

Or can you not just read it?

[shy kelp]

It even makes a sound when inserted

no it does not show up

Under drives theres nothing

[jolly silo]

Maybe post a quesion on tom's hardware or something

[shy kelp]

umm

[jolly silo]

I'm not very good with windows 10

[shy kelp]

So "SD CARD" showed up under drives for 10 sec

then everything froze and the whole Win10 UI reloaded

[jolly silo]

This actually happened to me once

Is this happening just now?

[shy kelp]

I never should've switched to Win10

yes