Steam Boiler

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uses magma from a volcano to heat up saltwater, brine, and polluted water just past their boiling point then using 2 counter-flows it condenses that steam back into water while heating up the incoming polluted water, salt water, and brine to conserve heat.

it is NOT self powered, the steam turbines should never turn on but are there just incase the steam room gets too hot.
so obviously it needs and outside power source.

can support up to 4 pipes of constant "water" input. startup was a bit finnicky but I've had it running for a lil bit and it seems to be working fine now.

the aquatuner should basically never turn on because it's just to cool the turbines which should also never turn on.

the 2 counterflows are important for separating polluted water from saltwater and brine 2 reasons.

1. polluted water boils at 120C while the other 2 are about to 100C so trying to boil all 3 in the same spot is just harder.
2. polluted water emmits pollutes oxygen sometimes. this isn't addressed in this design because I haven't figured out how specifically I wanna go about it and whether I actually need to because after testing it still hasn't done it. but saltwater and brine DON'T off-gas so it just makes sense to keep em split.

red arrows are outgoing materials/liquids
blue arrows are incoming materials/liquids

so far after testing with 4 pipes of constant flow for an unknown amount of time. less than an hour. there's been no further issues.
after 1 more hour of it running imma move on to testing it with only 2 pipes of flow, one on each side to see if there's an issue

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IMPORTANT:
switch the conveyor rail thermo sensor to below 230C. it was an oversight on my part.

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having trouble calibrating the polluted water side. heat damaged pipes

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this design has lasted 1 hour on 3x speed without heat damage to the pipes.

changes:

• added a second aquatuner, the first one is still set to above 15C but it now runs most of the time. the new one is set to above 29C.
• replaced more of the radiant pipes on the polluted water counter-flow with insulated pipes to counter the heat damage.
• added 3 temp shift plates to the polluted water side. from left to right it's aluminum, aluminum, igneous rock.
  the igneous rock one is to buffer the heat coming from the heat injector so it doesn't change so rapidly, the 2 aluminum ones are to increase temperature exchange between the steam and pipes just a tad.
• changed the shipping layout so all items go through the steam turbine chill chamber, hence the second aquatuner. this way the items don't come out at 200C, they seem to get about 20-40C which is less of a problem, at the same time it gives 1 output for items instead of 3.
• changed the thermo sensor for the polluted water heat injector from above 125C to above 121C.

conclusion, design requires more power now but it chills outgoing materials and seems to have stopped causing heat damage to the polluted water pipes.

output water is coming out at about 38.8-49.2C but ofc that depends on the input "water" temperature

still need to test with minimal "water" input

steam turbines still haven't turned on

so I think that's a good thing? idk I need sleep now

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testing with 1/2 pipe input on each side for around an hour(didn't set a timer but close enough) not once did the pipes take heat damage. so with a 90% certainty. this design can handle anywhere from 0.5 pipe input on each side to all 4 full pipes input

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left it going for another hour but I moved the 2 thermo sensors in each boiling area up a tile so they'd stop flipping any time the "water" touched em. this has altered it. instead of remaining a small puddle and occasionally completely evaporating, the water builds up to about 1.5 tiles tall then boils all at once. and since I did that an hour ago I think it's more stable temp wise this way. but imma swap it over to 4 full pipes for another hour just to be sure this change hasn't broken it

so almost immediately ran into the issue I saw coming. the brine/saltwater side started getting pressure damage from too much liquid being stuck at the bottom. so imma have to workshop this. probably move the thermo sensor on that side back down 1.

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alright so. although the tile up thermo sensor is more stable temp wise- on the right it conflicts with the 2 different liquids in 1 boiler setup. causing the brine to build up, unable to reach boiling point since more liquid keeps being added and eventually causing pressure damage as all the brine is trapped in 1 tile.

so idk EXACTLY what to do about this