#Recomend me custom JoyCon shell with the D-Pad, please.
151 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Why do you think the issue describe there happened?
Haha...
Because it wasn't meant to be
The joycon's D-pad wasn't a D-pad to begin with, it was designed for separate button, not an actual D-pad
You can put a new button layout on it but it doesn't change the underlying component of the board.
That's not what the joycon's board is
Let me elaborate
Yes, I even reshell a few
What else?
They way D-pad works is that it has a stem acting as the center point, the "arrows" would rock back and forth on each direction. Below, a board with different contact points will be "met" with the arrows on top.
It's the middle highest point of the D-pad, acting as a balancing center
The Joycon doesn't have any of this design.
It has a tactile, actual button, low profile ones though
yes, but that's not the most important part
the important part is the board below it
It's entirely different from what was required for D-pad to work
The pro controller has these contact below
See what I meant by contacts?
They are electrical contacts, you touch it with something, it bridge the connection, register an input
And you know what these are?
And why are you surprised it doesn't work the same way?
...Simply put, they are different
You won't be able to find any other shell with the same quality as extremeRate though. Other shells will work OK, but you will run into some fitting issues during the process.
But eh, up to you, good luck.
I did, it's just not as good as an actual D-pad
The other buttons are fine, just like the original.
It simply doesn't have the same feeling.
Like I have said before, it's not even designed to be a D-pad
You have to click
The joycon's face buttons are clicky to begin with, so even if you replace it to be D-pad, you will have a clicky D-pad
This is my just distilling what I have said previously.
D-pad, for me, should be smoother.
It's not exactly personal reference, I mostly compare it to full-size controller. Since it's still a type of separate controller.
And if that's your preferences, do you think a clicky D-pad is a bad thing?
your "reference" to be more precise
Then I guess you don't mind clicky D-pad on the joycon?
hmm
You are asking a lot, eh?
Well, if I say it this way
It's fine to play most games
But you will run into issues if you require precise inputs for classical fighting games that requires continuous combos using d-pad
Nowadays, such games are rare
No gray? I thought there was a gray version.
Soft-touch though
If you compare the reshelled joy-con D-pad, it's something on the same line with old handheld console, yes. But it's not that precise nor accurate compare to good D-pad controller such as 8bitdo offerings or separate D-pad like DS4.
If you want to get that type of shell, it would be mostly for aesthetic than improving its function.
Because the result of a D-pad on joycon would be the same as its original design. In fact, I'd argue the D-pad create more inaccurate inputs.
Ah they do have black but not the same shade of gray
No, I haven't tried to DIY a d-pad for joycon
I reckon it's not an easy endeavor
I just search "extremerate black joycon shell" https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000124282893.html
It's not like there are choices, unfortunately.
There is extremeRate and generic, no name ones.
The latter often has issues, like I have described.
So yeah,... either extremeRate or those no-name ones ._.'
There isn't any competition in this field.
Unless you want to get some very very expensive custom one
like 3D printed or CNC ones
Oh if you search around and see Basstop, it's literally the generic ones, but Basstop put a name on it for the US market lol
Did I mention the D-pad on these are not actual D-pad?
I remember telling someone recently about it but forgot who
Well, I can't really comment on the texture, some people like it, some don't
Haha technically, they are kinda correct because that's what they meant to do
it's just not suitable for you
The coating is rubberize material
The transparent one is just plastic without the coating
Unfortunately, that's the best one you can buy
But that's how aftermarket part is like
they are never perfect
Although I really hate it, but I have to say the original joycon does justify the price
Because they applied a lot of tech inside that controller
Even the shell has a special coating that provide texture and protecting the plastic
You won't find something like that with aftermarket stuffs
Maybe they did, but they didn't choose to
Hori has one, but it lacks features
You can buy other aftermarket shells if you want, there are some clone ones
The clone one has less precision compare to extremeRate, but doesn't have any special coating
Buy a flush cutter, you may need it to cut the imperfect part out
Instead of relying on aftermarket shell, ever think about modding the original shell to use extremeRate's D-pad?
The original thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/NintendoSwitch/comments/6gdsal/my_attempt_at_a_joycon_dpad_mod/
why not use extremeRate's D-pad?
you already have one
Maybe you can modify it, up to you
spare parts like those wiiu d-pad are available on the market, too
ah that's a problem
Not sure how accessible 3D printer for you but creating these things is child play on them
or you can just create the stem and stick it on with some glue
yeah
The entire D-pad
Tbh I don't like sticking a stem on a d-pad, it might break.
A whole D-pad with stem already built on it would be more durable.
Although...
this is hidden under the joycon
I know some glue that's really strong that might work for that kind of project
It's the middle thingy
kinda like a stick
add the pivot for the d-pad
pivot haha
Most of the time people call it a stem
Because it will feel the most weight when you use it
It's the center, that's why
Maybe, remember that the weight you put on that stem is never straight
it's from an angle at all time
so your finger rotating around that d-pad is basically creating leverage to break that stem off
If you want to go the gluing route, then you need to think about some really strong glue
JBWeld epoxy for example
up to you, I'm just theorizing
JBweld for the glue
I disagree with that. Try to test it on a normal D-pad on a DS for example.
The stem
if you want to add that pivot action on a normal d-pad without a stem
then you need to glue one on
but it's weaker compare to a d-pad with a stem
Haha up to you
The thing is that's how it works. You don't have to press on it for it to take pressure.
It's always taking pressure, no matter where you are pressing.
But it's quite shallow, maybe it's not that big of a deal
eh but it's up to you, it's not like you have even started doing it yet
so wait till you have a concrete plan
Well, then go do it
if you found issues, then adjust later
no the pivot breaking...
Put that d-pad you are holding on a flat surface
and try to rock it back and forth
tell me if at any point there would be no pressure on the stem
lmao don't pull the trust me bro move
When you are experimenting, doubt is your allies
not absolution
Yeah but I only worry about it if the stem is glued on
If it's part of the injection molded d-pad then you have nothing to worry about
Depends on what solutions you want for that d-pad
like I keep saying
worry about it if it's glued on
eh pic?
Sure that can work, too
If the d-pad is fit snugly enough, it can use that
If you know how to work with epoxy, use them instead
they are harder
but epoxy is impossible to remove though, comapare to hot glue
hot glue isn't epoxy
but yeah you are right, hotglue can be pretty hard
This is either extremeRate's or a clone
If you pick a random one like this then who knows lol
Most often they dont have a big stem
I did try a few clones but they don't have d-pad
The only clone I tried with a d-pad was actually not for joycon, that one was terrible.
But I guess it's not related
Oh good point, then buy spare buttons from the Lite
And you put it back on the extremeRate's joycon's shell to test?